The magic of the Medina and the Souk…Adjusting to a new environment isn’t always easy…Lots more photos..

This was the view as we dined in an outdoor café on Tuesday. 

It’s only through our 17 months of travel, 14 of which have been spent outside the US, that we’ve come to realize how convenient life was in the US. We had access to anything we wanted and could afford.

“Tuk-tuks” lined up to take customers to other locations in the Medina. So far, we’ve hoofed it.

The Internet on our phones and in our houses was something we rarely thought of unless something occasional went wrong. Cable and Satellite TV provided a massive amount of options, enhanced by services such as Netflix.

Carts with donkeys are often used to transport merchandise.

Yes, I know, two donkey photos. Maybe I need a little more time to adjust to the lack of animals in my environment.

Movie theatres were within 20 minutes for most of us. Restaurants serving food that we could and would eat were a hop, skip, and a jump away. If we needed a new pair of socks, a trip to Target was all that was required.

Check out the size of these strawberries!

If we were cold, we turned on the heat; hot, we turned on the whole house AC. If we decided to make a special recipe, a short trip to a grocery store was all that was required to find the necessary ingredients.

Tassels, a common decorative item in Morocco and colorful plates.

When we fell ill, a phone call and usually short drive to our family doctor was all that was required to get us pointed in the right direction. We drank water from the kitchen tap. And on and on.

Munchies for sale in street kiosks in the Medina.

Dried figs and dates are a common snack and are also used in cooking in Morocco.

More dried fruits and snacks.

Yes, we took all of this for granted but, why wouldn’t we? It was the normal course of life for many of us. Yes, there were many others less fortunate. Our hearts broke for them and some of us, we did what we could, however small. 

Beautiful handmade dresses are on display in the souk.

We were caught up in our comfortable little world of work, responsibility, love, family, and friends. We found comfort and familiarity in that life. And, for many of us, we found a level of happiness, at times intermittent, at other times, constant. 

Although these pots appear to be chocolate something, it’s actually “black soap.”

At different times in our lives, we were unhappy, unsure, grieving, in pain, and in sorrow. For most of us, in time, we’ve found a level of peace in a world we could live in and fit in.

Each night at dinner, Madame Zahra serves the main course in one of these clay pots which keeps the food warm.

For us, world travelers that we are, most of this has changed. Here in Morocco, we find some of our greatest adjustments: not being able to shop for and cook our own meals; having difficulty staying warm after nine months of hot weather; finding foods we like and can eat in local restaurants and, the language barrier with only a few locals speaking English. 

Cats are everywhere in Marrakesh, seemingly well fed and accepting of the crowds.
These kittens were playing in the street. 

None of this is a result of a problem with Morocco, our hosts, or our current home. All of this is “on us,” as we strive to adjust. We find this to be the case in varying degrees in every country in which we’ve lived for a month or more. 

Lamps and lanterns are a common theme throughout the souk.

We realize that many of our posts are filled with excitement and wonder over these very differences. Our eyes are wide open to the adjustments we must make in order to continue to revel in the differences, as opposed to complaining about the necessary adaptation required to fit in and to feel at ease.

Tom is usually smiling. Catching him without a smile is an oddity. He thought his hair looked like Squiggy from the TV show, Laverne and Shirley after the wind whipped his hair.
That’s my guy with the usual smile on his face as we waited for our meal at Yamy, an outdoor café in the big square.

It would be so easy to complain. We chose not to. Instead, we continually strive, each and every day, to find ways to enhance that which we may find difficult.  

It was hard to believe the reasonable prices at this casual café when MAD $40 is US $4.82. My seafood salad as shown below was only MAD $40!  It was delicious. Tom had an excellent burger and fries for MAD $32, US $3.85!  He eats the same of the foods that I can eat when dining in, with Madame Zahra cooking and, splurging when we dine out with no objection from me. 

Tom doesn’t care for spicy food. But, I do. When I cooked I’d use a gentle touch to ensure our mutual satisfaction. We adapted, meeting each other halfway. Moroccan food is very spicy, all of which I love. With nary a thought, Samir spoke to Madame Zahra to cut the spices in half for all of our meals. 

The orange in this salad is slightly cooked carrots which I can have. The remainder consisted of small bites of shrimp, squid, and chicken. I put plain mayo on the top as a bit of dressing. It was divine. I’ll want to have this in the future. But, first. we’ll try many of the other restaurants before doing repeats.
I was so wrapped up in my own plate of food, I forgot to take a photo of Tom’s food before he dug into it. He said it was great, the first American meal he’d had in a restaurant in a long time.

Last night’s dinner, after Madame Zahra graciously made this adjustment, was flawless. We couldn’t have enjoyed it more. We practically ate everything on all those little plates as shown in our photos with barely having room for the entrée. 

My vegetable first course, made by Madame Zahra last night. Peas contain starch so I only had a single taste. I never knew veggies could taste this good.
Tom’s first-course vegetable plate. It’s hard to believe that he’s eating all these veggies and actually enjoying them.

The more we adapt, the more we ultimately find joy in the experiences, which we take with us when we leave;  a new understanding, a new knowledge, and deeper confidence in our ability to grow and learn from our varied experiences.

My plate, with Chicken Tagine, cauliflower, and salad. Lately, we do “mono” eating, having one item at a time, which we find allows us to savor each item for its varied flavors.

No, it’s not as easy as it may often seem. Let’s face it, in South Africa, it was hot, humid and there were bugs and snakes. But, we found a tremendous diversion in the pleasure we gleaned from our amazing visitors and our equally amazing friends.

Our shared salad of which Tom only had a few bites. I had at least half, eaten after my entrée, a habit I have acquired since leaving the US. Eating the salad after the entrée, allows the entrée to be eaten while still hot and also aids in digestion (so they say).

Morocco will be no different. We’ll embrace our surroundings, the food, the unique flavor of the country and its people. And after a short time, we’ll once again, be home.

A special bush braai to remember…A sunset like none other…And a moon that lit the night…

Excellent stopped the vehicle for us to take photos of this amazing sunset. This occurred at 6:19 pm.
 This occurred one minute later at 6:20 pm.
 This occurred at 6:26 pm. We all agreed that it looked as if the “eyes of God” were watching us. In awe and total silence, we all snapped away.
The moon as it appeared on the horizon. Wow!

Dinner in the dark in the bush is not for the faint-hearted. Although safe with an armed guard on the constant lookout, a cleared area for cooking and table setup, we weren’t traipsing in the tall grass in order to dine. 

The table settings were lovely. Imagine serving a meal for eight guests (and most times as many as 18 guests) in the dark. 
We were so busy having fun, I missed taking a few good food photos and, spent little time making sure my shadow didn’t end up in the photo. The others had sushi while had this appealing and delicious appetizer plate containing everything I could eat.

An enclosed candlelit, toilet area off to the side, partially damaged by rhinos when no one is around, provided ample modesty when a visit was much needed after the long game drive. 

Tom squawks that he doesn’t like salmon. But each time it is presented to him when dining out he enjoys it.  Go figure. Tom’s holding his little LED flashlight in his hand, as shown.
In South Africa, shrimp is referred to as prawns. After consuming these multiple prawns, I could easily have been satisfied to stop eating. We continued on.
This dish took me aback. It was Ostrich Carpaccio, a local delicacy. I thought of our two-time visitor, Clive (aptly named by a Facebook friend), and I had trouble with this item. Tom loved it, eating mine as well.

A roaring fire and our gracious hosts, Louise and Danie, and all their helpers greeted us warmly when we arrived, as the smell of a wide array of foods wafted through our senses.

After we were served the multiple courses, we headed to the table with the main courses, piling our plates with wide a wide array of local favorites.
This plate is pap, a common maize dish in South Africa. In my old life, this would have been a favorite of mine. Now, I had to pass. But, the vegetables on the right become a favorite. The yellow item in the pan is pattipan squash, an item I can have.
This pork dish was made with pineapple.  Danie had left a portion held aside for me without the fruit.
This Greek salad was right up my alley, also a local favorite found in restaurants.

This special Valentine’s Day braai had been postponed by a day due to rain. The eight of us, a small group for this special occasion, were immediately offered beverages, alcoholic and non, easily finding ourselves at ease in this seeming vulnerable location in Kruger National Park, with no fences, with wild animals all around us.

This is a pan of skewered Moroccan chicken. I told Tom, “Get used to it, Honey. You’ll be eating plenty of that soon enough!” It was delicious.
My plate, filled with the above items that I could have, all wonderfully seasoned and prepared.

This has been our third bush braai since arriving in Marloth Park. The first time, I must admit, I was tentative, looking under our table every few minutes for scorpions or snakes and glancing around the lighted perimeter for lions or hippos which we could hear at a distance. But, these next two occasions, I rarely looked down, feeling safe and protected by our conscientious hosts and their staff.

Tom didn’t hesitate to partake of his dessert plate.

Whenever we heard a sound, we all stopped talking as our guards went into action to investigate further. His rifle-armed and ready with ample bullets on his belt, we had little to fear. “Lucky,” our guard was a military guy. He knew what he was doing.

This shot was taken while seated at our table. We felt fortunate to see the breathtaking sunset and rising moon all in one night.

Soon we were seated at our beautifully set tables with comfortable chairs, linen napkins, fine china, silverware, and glassware, it could only be construed as elegant dining in a rather unusual place, for most of us anyway.

Tiffany and John, the darling couple we thoroughly enjoyed on the game drive and at our table during the bush braai.

At our table was the lovely couple from Australia with whom we chatted on endlessly only stopping long enough to savor course after course of delectable delights presented by our hosts. The special dietary needs of both Tiffany and I were honored with great reverence and creativity. Tiffany is a vegetarian and me, well, you know the drill. Not a morsel was presented that didn’t comply with our needs.

What a fabulous group of people.  Four of us were tourists and the remaining are residents of the area.

A bottle of champagne in a silver ice bucket sat unattended on our table. We commented that we hoped that later Louise and Danie would enjoy it in celebration of yet another fine job of entertaining guests in the bush, one of their many specialties. 

Tom took these beautiful sunset photos using the small pink Samsung camera.  The lens was dirty from smudges on the interior of the lens resulting from humidity in Kenya, as is the same problem with my Sony.

After a delicious dinner and dessert (I didn’t  have dessert but didn’t mind at all), a bouquet of red roses and a box of chocolates were presented to the ladies with little liqueur bottles presented to the men, an elegant touch to end a fabulous Valentine’s evening, a special bush braai, a night to remember.

Another similar shot from the Samsung camera. Before my computer crashed, I had an app capable of removing the spots. Now it is gone. Soon we’ll purchase a new camera.

The people were astoundingly fun and playful and  Louise and Danie shared in our merriment. We couldn’t thank them enough for this evening and all they have done for us since the day we arrived.

At different points the group was singing, laughter filling the air. Group photo-taking ensued and when it was time to go, we all hugged one another, none of us want to say goodbye.

An evening to remember in every way added to the surprising number of extraordinary experiences we’ve had in South Africa.  It’s hard to believe that in 11 days, we’ll fly to Morocco. This, dear readers will be a hard act to follow.

Scary incident while out last night….Four guys, a driver and us…

Tom likes Tusker beer, a local brew, usually at KES $300, US $3.52, per liter when ordered at a bar or in a restaurant. What’s with that look on his face?

Dining out on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays have been an excellent balance for us. Overall, the food has been good, the service consistently good and the ambiance in most cases, ideal with most resorts located on the Indian Ocean.

The cool ocean breezes with fewer mosquitoes with the strong breezes (in most cases) and with someone else doing the cooking and cleanup dining out has been a welcomed relief, spaced out for these specific days of the week.

Last night, before the power, went out at The Cave.

Yesterday, we’d decided to give Ali Barbour’s The Cave Restaurant another try after a first mediocre meal in September, shortly after we’d arrived at Diani Beach. Last night’s meal was hardly disappointing, pleasantly surprising both of us with well seasoned, beautifully presented, and delicious meals. 

My dinner ranked in the top three on my list of favorite meals in Kenya. Tom, “Mr. Meat and Potatoes” was also pleased with his meal. Definitely requiring one more return to The Cave in our remaining 17 days before leaving on November 30th. 

The Cave, after the power went out which came back on promptly after the generators were started.

True to our expectations as described in yesterday’s post, we didn’t receive our drinks until 15 minutes after being seated and we waited no less than 30 minutes after requesting our bill. The restaurant was busy. We waited patiently. 

The power had gone out twice during our dinner to be restored within a few minutes by the use of a generator. It’s not unusual for the power to go out in Kenya. We didn’t flinch.

Our bill after tipping the server came to a total of KES $4600, US $54.51 with a remaining tip to pay for the shuttle driver that had picked us up (20 minutes earlier than planned) and would be returning us home.

The fresh flowers at the base of the lantern at our table.

Walking up the uneven stone steps to the reception area, we found four other patrons awaiting a ride, a group of male 20 somethings who’d apparently had a good time based on their loud banter and pushy behavior. 

Speaking in a language we didn’t understand, it was obvious they were annoyed with having to wait for a few minutes for the shuttle driver to return from another drop-off. Tom and I had seen these four guys only minutes earlier in the dining area. They couldn’t have been waiting for more than five minutes.

Sitting in the living-room-like reception area, all facing one another, Tom and I were prepared for a wait. The Maasai restaurant greeter also sat in this area trying to appease the four impatient guests as they obviously grumbled over a potentially short wait. 

Tom’s dinner of Beef Stroganoff (no noodles), fries, and ketchup.  Yep, he ate the bread in the basket to which I made no comment or facial expression.

Within two minutes of sitting down, they instructed the Maasai greeter to call them a taxi. He made the call explaining the taxi would arrive in five minutes Apparently, they spoke English. They had chosen to forgo the complimentary shuttle to bring them back to their hotel.

We both thought, “Oh, good. When the driver returns, he can take us.” In less than a minute, the shuttle driver returned and the Maasai greeter explained in Swahili that the four guys had requested a taxi. The shuttle driver motioned to us to get into the awaiting van, as he opened the sliding door. We complied.

Bolting out of the parking lot in an obvious hurry, we flew down the long bumpy road from the ocean to the highway, as we heard the driver talking on his cell phone. Almost at the highway on the narrow road, with no place to turn around, the driver, not saying a word to us, began driving backward to return to the restaurant. 

This is the protein portion of my dinner, a shrimp cocktail on a bed of crisp cabbage. It was the best shrimp cocktail I’ve had in years.  The veggie portion of my dinner is in the below photo.

I must admit, he drove well going backward such a long distance on the bumpy narrow road.  Had it been me in such a hurry, I’d have been all over the road driving backward. Tom would have done as well as him.

We assumed that the driver was called to return to the restaurant to pick up other guests when, in fact, the four guys had decided they didn’t want to wait a couple more minutes for the “already on its way” taxi. This obviously infuriated the driver, who began apologizing to us to which we both said, “hakuna matata” which translates to “no problem or no worry” in English.

The four guys piled into the van requiring Tom to get out to let them in the back seats. I stayed put, suddenly feeling a need to put my seat belt on. The driver was speaking to the four guys in both Swahili and English explaining that “you can’t cancel a taxi after it’s on its way. You still have to pay.”

This grilled veggie platter was heavenly, cooked to perfection, seasoned with local spice, and grilled with a light glaze of olive oil and butter.  The white rectangles are slices of imported Parmesan cheese.  What a meal!  I ate every morsel of both dishes.

The four guys didn’t respond well to his comments as the driver continued to explain that they’d still have to pay the taxi, giving him the money to bring back to the taxi driver in the amount of KES $500, US $5.86. They refused. They all became very irritated.

At this point the driver turned around, as he’s driving down the unlit main road at a high speed, asking us if it was OK if he dropped the four guys off first and then head to our house. Again, we said, “hakuna matata.”  Again, he thanked us profusely.

The chatter back and forth escalated during the 10-minute drive to the hostel (not hotel) where the four guys were staying. Once arriving at the hostel, the van driver insisted they pay the 500 schillings, and again, they refused, saying they’d pay KES $300, US $3.52. They exited the van, loudly grumbling with tempers flaring. 

The van driver explained that he’d have to pay the taxi driver for him taking his fare by van, instead of using the ordered taxi. We didn’t blame him for his frustration. What a bunch of jerks!

This is Tom’s foot next to the largest semi-poisonous millipede we’ve seen since arriving in Kenya. Tom with his frequent verbal slips continually refers to these common creatures as “minipedes.” Not so mini, Tom Lyman. He scooped it into the dustpan placing it back into the yard. It will be back. Can you imagine stepping on that in bare feet during the night? Is it any wonder that I put my moccasins in the bed with me?

During this period, with the multiple language barriers and Tom’s hard of hearing issues (after 42 years on the railroad), he had a hard time determining what was transpiring, other than the visual on the angry driver and the four guys. 

It was clear enough to me. My concern escalated along with their tempers. Was a fight about to break out? Was someone going to pull a knife or a gun? We were trapped in the vehicle. I recalled that after we’d arrived at the restaurant, that the door to the van could only be opened from the outside after we tried to open it several times from the inside. 

Again, in a flash, the driver turned to us apologizing. This time, we didn’t say “hakuna matata.”  Instead, Tom said, “Let’s go,” in a non-threatening manner. Hesitating for a moment, the driver weighed his options, either stay and turn this into a nightmare or, leave. We waited for his decision. He looked from the guys, to us in the back seat and made a decision. 

He left, speeding crazily down the bumpy dirt road back to the main road.

Sighing a sigh of relief, we were ecstatic to be on our way, although his angry driving made us wonder if we’d make it back in one piece. Again, a sigh of relief, escaped my breath, as we approached our first security gate and then our second where Jeremiah, our guard, waited for us unlocking the gate and letting us in.

Finally back in our outdoor living room at 10:00 pm, Jessie and Gucci at our sides, I decided to go to bed. With the days of rain last week, the mosquito population was over the top and I hardly felt like changing into my BugsAway clothing. Then, Tom spotted this giant “minipede” (actually a millipede), scooping it up, placing it back in the yard. (See above photo).

The comfort and safety of the mosquito netting around the bed, the overhead fan, and a new book downloaded to my smartphone, I was content to call it a day. Tom, on the other hand, quickly changed into his BugsAway clothing, grabbed his laptop to stay outside for another hour.

My last thought before tucking my phone and my flashlight under my pillow and nodding off, “Whew!

First time posted safari photos… Dinner on the town…Plus we’re going on “vacation” in three days… Details coming…

This mom had a baby on her opposite side.  We waited, hoping the baby would appear. The mom, seemed aware of us, never allowed the baby to make an appearance.
Although this croc looks small in this photo, Anderson our guide, speculated he was no less than 15 feet long. Although less than 20 feet from us, we cautiously stood on a steep embankment, impossible for him to climb with his size and girth.
Another hippo is swimming in the river while this one was sniffing for breakfast.
Anderson chuckled when we zoomed in to get this shot of an impala during our first few minutes in the Land Cruiser after he’d picked us up at the airport.  He said we’d see so many of these and other animals in the antelope family, we’d soon lose interest in taking their photos.  How right he was, although these graceful animals are enchanting to watch.
Young lions lounging under a tree on a beautiful morning.


Mom keeping out a watchful eye while her brood lounges. From time to time, she nodded off, quickly startling herself awake.

Grunt.  Life is hard for a “Retired General.” This one may have been newly banished as he’d yet to meet up with other such males. He looked forlorn and miserable. 
We took at least 10 shots of this exquisite male lion looking satisfied and sleepy with the remains of his zebra meal behind him. Anderson said that most likely a female killed it and he took it from her. The male’s MO is to watch females hunt in order to steal their catch, although when desperate, they’ll hunt for their own meals.

When shooting multiple shots of one scene, many shots may look similar or at times almost identical. Luckily, I have access to a link where I can review all of the photos I’ve already posted to ensure I don’t post lots of duplicates since each photo has its own unique number. Although on occasion, as mentioned in the past, I may make an error or simply want to repost a shot.

While on safari, we kept took over 600 photos, keeping approximately 500. We posted many of those 500 over a 13 day period at about 20 per day, leaving us almost half of them that our reader hasn’t seen, mainly due to the appearance of many being duplicates. From time to time, we’ll post a few of these as we’ve done today.
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Dinner on the town…

The elegant lobby at the Diani Reef Resort and Spa.
The elegant offerings at Diani Reef Resort and Spa were breathtaking.
A coy pond and glass floor in the reception area were only a few of the highlights at the
Diani Reef Resort and Spa.
Our intent had been to arrive in daylight for the benefit of better photos.  Perhaps, we’ll return during the day to partake in the several additional restaurants, the offered pool lounging, and the free WiFi.
Dining out three times a week has made a world of difference to us. Yes, it’s a pain to getting ready to go out each time;  the heat, the repellent, plus trying to figure out what to wear. But, we’ve found that once we’re on our way in the taxi, we’re always happy to be on our way. 
Tom standing in front of the popular local Baobab trees located in the lobby area of the resort. That’s my purse, not his, although on occasion he does carry it for me.

In our old lives, we seldom dined out. Many of our friends lived in our neighborhood making staying in dining with them easy and fulfilling. Plus, we’d had our fill of nearby restaurants, preferring to dine at home.

Although this appears to be an exterior photo, it was actually taken from inside the massive courtyard in the lobby area.

Now, with a multitude of amazing resorts with phenomenal restaurants within a 20 minutes drive costing no more than KES $1500, US $17.69 for the round trip drive including tips, dining out certainly has its appeal.

As we approached the bar area where we had drinks and excellent service. 

With many highly rated standalone restaurants nearby, we’ve been tempted to try them. The problem has been my restrictive diet. The standalone restaurants mainly have “cooks” managing the preparation of the meals. But the fancier resorts have trained “chefs” who totally “get it” when I say: no starch, no gluten, no grain, no sugar. 

A view down the hall as we sat on the bar stools. There is one fabulous seating area after another offering privacy or socialization with easy access to MiFi.  Although appearing empty,  the huge property had many guests enjoying the facility’s wide array of areas.

Still, with most of the professional “chefs,” I must explain the fact of “no rice, no corn, no corn thickeners, no potatoes, no potato thickeners” which is often difficult for them to understand when most gluten-free diets do include corn, potatoes, beans, rice, and gluten-free grains, none of which I am able to consume due to the high carb content.

At 7:30, the hostess arrived at the bar to alert us that our dinner reservation was ready, carrying our drinks on a tray as she escorted to Sake, the Japanese restaurant

Some may say, “Gee, take a break. Enjoy a few bites here and there.” I appreciate this mentality. But, 26 months ago, I was a near invalid in constant debilitating pain. At that time, I would never have considered traveling the world, let alone going on a day’s outing.

This was Tom’s dinner, tempura pork loin with a Japanese seasoned side salad.

Now pain-free after over two years of eating this way, I can sit in a bumpy safari vehicle for eight hours a day with nary a moment’s thought of pain, or walk many miles for hours on the uneven pavement to see Petra in Jordan, walking up and down steep cobblestone walkways in Mikonos, Greece and on and on. 

The rice, miso soup, and sauce was included in Tom’s meal. We shared a delicious appetizer before dinner but were so hungry we forgot to take a photo before devouring it!

Need I say more?  No type of food is worth the pain returning and never will be. Thus, the fancier restaurants, although more costly, are worth it to us. 

Most likely, the restaurant/resort we visited on Thursday night was the most expensive thus far. The total for dinner, drinks, and tips at Diani Reef Resort and Spa at Sake Restaurant, was KES $7566.70, US $89.23 which included some cocktails for Tom at KES $763.20, US $9.00 each. As is the case in most of the resorts, the cost of cocktails is high with soda and beer less so. 

My dinner.  Yea, I know that my ongoing calamari meals look repetitious but there’s nowhere in the world we’ve visited thus far that offer this un-battered tender calamari.  I can’t seem to get enough!  It’s caught locally served fresh the same day.  How can I resist?  I’d rather have it than lobster although, the fresh locally caught lobster is firm and flavorful from the Indian Ocean.

Tom worked for 42 years to earn this retirement. He can have all the cocktails he wants, although overall, he’s a lightweight drinker. I don’t drink any alcohol. Instead, I order bubbly water with lemon or lime.

The moment we entered the gorgeous resort, we anticipated an enjoyable evening and we were never disappointed for a moment. From the welcome reception we received upon entering, to being greeted and chatting with Susan, the assistant GM, and Mohammad, the GM when departing, we were enthralled with the quality of service.
 Our table after our entrees were served created an eye-catching presentation. I requested a sauce made without gluten or sugar and this sugary sauce was removed.

The ambiance was over the top, one of the most beautiful resorts we’ve yet to see.  The design and the décor were developed and embellished to the utmost of creativity, with a theme of a warm elegance unsurpassed in the resort industry. 

After an exquisite dinner in the Japanese restaurant Sake, Susan and Mohammad invited us to return for a full day’s enjoyment at their pool where they’ll reserve a padded lounge chair for us. We’ll be able to use their free WiFi and dine in another of their several restaurants at our leisure. We look forward to taking them up on their offer soon. 

Yes, folks, we’re going on another three-night “vacation” starting on Tuesday, October 29th, returning on Friday, November 1st. Some might call it a “vacation within a vacation” but for us, it is the perfect way to celebrate on October 31st, the anniversary of our first full year of travel after leaving Minnesota on Halloween, October 31, 2012.

Tomorrow, we’ll share our plans and of course, next week amid our “vacation” we’ll we writing and posting stories as they occur. 

No water, 15 hours and counting…List of lessons we’ve learned..More new photos…A daylight visit to Sails…

We posted this poisonous centipede photo, a creature in the crustacean family, that we took shortly after we’d arrived.  A few nights ago, I encountered another of these on the bathroom wall during the night. In the flurry of activity, I didn’t stop to take another photo.  I didn’t scream, but I did awaken Tom, who promptly got the dustpan and brush, flushing it down the toilet. For days, I worried it would come back up the toilet causing me to check out the toilet bowl frequently. This is the one creature I fear.

Last night after dinner, Tom prepared to do the dishes as always, only to discover we had no running water. Not a dribble. No way to flush to the toilet. No way to shower in the morning. Oh.

The long walk from the security area at Sails Restaurant on which vehicles aren’t allowed. At night, when returning in the dark, a security guard escorts us on the walk.

Jeri, Hans’ wife, has contacted a plumber. We wait. Is it another broken pipe? A pump no longer pumping? What could it be? With no city water in Kenya, property owners are dependent upon well water with small water towers dotting the landscape.

This tented area is the location of the Sails Restaurant at the Almanara Resort, one of our favorites thus far.

Who are we to complain when the highway we frequent is littered with shacks where there’s no water, no electricity, and only fires for cooking? I continue to remind myself of this when these situations occur, finding little comfort in the discomfort of others.

The beach we hadn’t been able to see in the dark the last time we dined at Sails Restaurant at the Almanara Resort, almost walking distance from our home in Diani Beach.  (We always take a cab each way due to dangers on the highway).

Last Sunday we ran out of cooking fuel for a day finding ourselves eating tuna out of the can with coleslaw, sliced tomatoes, and carrot sticks on the side for dinner, the likes of which we’ve never had before.

The previous week we had no power during almost an entire day and a few days later, during an entire night.  After all, we’re living in a third world country. What did we expect? Utilities working? A microwave? A stove that turns on when you turn the dial? A TV? High-speed Internet? Air conditioning? A bug-free zone?   

Arriving a little after 6:00 pm, we were finally able to see the property at Sails Restaurant, part of the Almanara Resort. Locals are proud that their Kenyan President, Uhuru Kenyatta,  had stayed at this resort some months ago.

Our expectations are subject to the environment from whence we came, what’s familiar. If one never had a computer, one may dismiss it as an unnecessary frivolity. It’s all a matter of what we’ve become used to, isn’t it? There’s no right or wrong in this fact. It is what it is.

After dinner, as we awaited our cab, we lounged in this seating area in the dark.

We decided to live in these conditions. No one forced us. Will naivety suffice as an excuse for not knowing these things could happen? Perhaps, in part. Perhaps, in part, our desire for adventure led us down this road to a lack of basic familiarities which simply “goes with the territory.”

The moon and the ocean, never disappoint.

Me, who showers every morning without exception, poured a bit of bottled water into the bathroom sink doing the best I could do, dressing in the same clothes I wore yesterday (clean underwear, of course). Wearing the same clothes twice, was out of my realm in my old life. Now, there’s no chance of such frivolity, of such wastefulness.

So, what do we do? We wait. We don’t complain to one another. Hopefully, by 5:00 PM we’ll have water again, hot water after we push the button to get the water to heat in 20 minutes, so we can shower before going out to dinner.

The moon never disappoints.

Hopefully, we’ll be able to wash the dishes before we leave, the 3 pots I used to make dinner last night, now crustily sitting in the kitchen along with the dirty plates and flatware. 

I resign myself in the knowledge that somehow I needed to learn these lessons; to not take conveniences for granted, to appreciate the most basic of amenities, to diligently and discriminatingly use whatever is readily available. 

Last week when dining at Sails Restaurant, the moon was in its full glory.

Now, a year out, we’ve learned the following:
1.  Wash and reuse plastic bags if possible.
2.  Cover food in the refrigerator with a single paper towel (no Tupperware or plastic containers with lids).
3.  Use small leftover pieces of bar soap for frequent hand washing.
4.  Use a small flashlight when getting up in the dark to ensure no creatures are wandering about.
5.  Wear the same pants, shirts, socks until they are obviously dirty or smell.
6.  Always wear and carry insect repellent.
7.  Don’t scream (me, only) when spotting a poisonous creature in the bathroom.
8.  Use plenty of olive oil on the bottom of the metal skillet to avoid sticking (non-stick doesn’t exist here).
9.  Don’t flush the toilet every time (especially now with no water).
10. Carefully monitor data usage. Don’t watch videos other than shows we’ve downloaded during the night using the “free” metered nighttime data we receive after loading more data via scratch-off cards.
11. Wash the bird poop off of the glass table every morning using ammonia, washing hands immediately thereafter.
12. Be careful when plugging anything into an outlet (220 gives quite the jolt. I know from experience).
13. Have cash on hand for tips. Credit card tips not allowed.
14. Don’t complain about the food or service aloud. 
15. When walking on the road to the beach, produce stand or anywhere in public say “jambo” to every passerby. 
16. Don’t feed the wildlife.
17. Clean up bits of food promptly after eating or within minutes it will be covered in ants.  Don’t eat in bed.  Food attracts bugs.
18. Inspect shoes, socks, clothing, and bath towels before using them.
19. Keep computers and MiFi’s plugged in while in use in the event of a power outage.  We’ll have 3 hours of use on the batteries.
20. Step carefully when walking.  With no codes, few handrails, or lights in public facilities, tripping hazards are many.  Recently we purchased 2 tiny LED flashlights we use when going out at night.
21.  Every night, upon getting into bed, check under the sheet, the pillows, around the pillows, and around the mosquito netting for whatever may be lurking there.  Most victims of centipede stings have received them while sleeping in a mosquito netted bed.

Tom sure enjoys the liter bottles of locally made Tusker beer, at KES $250, US $2.94. 

So, if the “universe” intended for us to appreciate more, to learn more, to experience more, the “universe” has succeeded. And, as any education we are fortunate enough to receive when the “hard work” is done, we feel fulfilled and grateful for the knowledge and for the opportunity to incorporate this knowledge into the remainder of our lives.

Complimentary appetizer Tom had eaten the last time we visited Sails during our first week in Diani Beach, consisting of batter-fried seaweed and chicken stuffed puff pastries.
Tom enjoyed this dinner of Crab Au Gratin and fries. He gave me his plate of veggies as usual.
Look at this pile of grilled red snapper and veggies. I couldn’t have been more pleased with the freshness and flavor. The server explained that the snapper was caught in front of the property earlier that day.

I promise. I’ll never look at a Ziploc bag the same way.

Although Tom doesn’t eat sweets when drinking beer, we got a kick out of this menu of homemade ice cream offered at Sails Restaurant.

Note: As I write this, the plumber is here repairing the water issue. Hesborn explained that we’ll soon have water. Apparently, it was a switch in the private water tower. Guess we’ll soon flip the hot water switch in order to do the dishes in 20 minutes or so, promptly turning it off.

Friday night date night…An entire restaurant to ourselves on a moonlit night…

   
Moonbeams over the Indian Ocean last night at the Blue Marlin Restaurant, reflecting off the ocean and lighting the sand.  Tiny sand crabs were scurrying about at our feet on we stood in the sand. 
 
The moon as it made it’s way from the fast moving clouds.
Ah, moonlight!
This spot was ideal for relaxing after one drank too many Margarita’s!

With a 7:30 pm reservation at the acclaimed seaside restaurant, the Blue Marlin, we were shocked when by 9:30 pm not another guest had arrived to dine.  We had the entire restaurant and staff to ourselves, receiving impeccable service and thoughtful attention on a perfect moonlit night. 


The chalk board at the Blue Marlin listed the daily specials.



The Blue Marlin offered a relaxed comfortable environment for diners. Notice an actual blue marlin on the wall.



Tom drank two bottles of this local Tusker beer.  You’d have to carry me out if I drank two of these.  I’m often tempted to have a drink but having anything with alcohol, as seldom as I do, results in outrageous hangovers from two of anything.  Plus, one is no fun!

The strong breeze from the sea was refreshing, the food divine, the ambiance inviting, leaving us feeling relaxed and at ease.  The short 5 minute cab ride confirmed yet again, that within our reach are all the restaurants we could possibly want for our weekly dining our experiences. 

Yes, I know.  Photos of us often shows us wearing the same clothes over and over.  After ditching most of our clothing to lighten our load, we have no choice but to do so. We try to wear the same items frequently in order to wear them out for disposal, saving the newer items for the future.  So far, nothing has worn out.  With no clothes dryers available, the thinnest tee shirts “live” forever.

As we work our way through Trip Advisor’s list of the top 18 restaurants in Diani Beach, thus far we’ve tried 3 of the top 4 and will continue to work our way down.  

What a smiley guy! I’m lucky!

With our remaining time in Kenya, we’ll fall short of trying out the entire list, plus with our upcoming safari over a weekend, we’ll only be able to have tried the top 11.

The chef insisted we take a photo together!

The Blue Marlin’s fish and shellfish are caught each day in the Indian Ocean, a few short steps from their door, to be served that evening for some of the finest tasting seafood we’ve had in our travels. 


The waiters were anxiously waiting for more diners to arrive.  Why, they didn’t baffled us.

The aroma of garlic, butter and rich fish sauces permeated the air as we pulled into the guarded gate sending our appetites to “full on” mode.  With Tom’s finicky palate, I wondered if there would be alternate selections for him. 

The cooks at work  in the outdoor kitchen preparing our appetizers and main courses.

For appetizers, I ordered a gluten free crab salad prepared in a creamy seasoned mayonnaise sauce while Tom ordered bacon wrapped jumbo prawns.  Both were epicurean delights, pleasing to the palate. 

Tom’s appetizer of bacon wrapped jumbo prawns.  I pointed out the bulging eyes.  He asked, “Why’d you tell me that?”
 

My appetizer was a delicious creamy crab salad. 

Once again, my guy surprised me ordering a local fish dish referred to as Swahili Fish, most likely a type of snapper with special sauces and spices, served with coconut flavored white rice and vegetables.  He ate every morsel on his plate.

Tom’s dinner consisted of a sizable portion of Swahili Fish, most likely a type of snapper.  Bone free and lightly season with a rich buttery coconut sauce, he had no trouble devouring every morsel.

My dinner was grilled calamari rings from what must have been one giant squid. I could have worn them as bracelets as opposed to the usual small rings typical in fried and battered calamari. 

Look at the size of these calamari rings!  I, too, savored every morsel on my plate.

Usually chewy, (one of the reasons I like squid), they were prepared to perfection leaving the chewiness factor in tact.  The remainder of my plate was filled with slightly crunchy grilled vegetables, seasoned in local spices. 

Tom took this photo from the beach on the Indian Ocean as tiny sand crabs scurried around his feet. While we dined, the crabs were everywhere.  Our dog friend, Zaa Zaa couldn’t resist chasing the larger crabs that she found on the beach.

With the full moon rising in a spectacular display throughout the evening, on several occasions we walked the short distance to the sand to take photos.  It couldn’t have been a more perfect evening.

Two dogs lived outdoors at the restaurant, one a malamute and the other, a Jack Russell mix.  The JR, Zaa Zaa, never left our side, graciously soliciting a tidbit.  Tom fed her the bulgy eyed head of one of his giant prawns which she enthusiastically devoured. 

I chuckled to myself a few times thinking, “Gee, we have a moonlit night, extraordinary food, ideal weather conditions, quiet surroundings, an attentive adorable dog at our side, all the while engaged in lively and animated conversation with each other.

The total cost for the evening was US $75.53 which includes meal, cab fare, tax and tips.

Zaa Zaa, our friendly companion for the evening, lying at our feet as we dined.

Tonight, we’ll be dining with Jeri and Hans at their home.  Happy hour will be on their third floor veranda.  I wonder if we’ll dine at their cozy indoor dining table or outside on the veranda.  We haven’t had an indoor meal in almost three weeks.

How weird is that!

Part 1…An unexpected cultural experience…Rich in content…Profound in its core…

This is a rendition of Hans‘ new construction project  (The pool is not illustrated in this rendition.)
As we entered the multi-unit building under construction, we were amazed by all of the handmade ladders, made from materials on the site. 
Still, on the main floor, we walked from room to room, envisioning the future appeal.
We couldn’t stop smiling over this creative means of supporting the ceilings.
This is why we’re in Kenya, its culture, its people, its wildlife, its vegetation, and its natural wonders all of which never cease to amaze us.
The expected completion of the first of 4 buildings on this particular site is by the end of 2013.
Seemingly fearless workers worked atop the highest levels of the building utilizing their handmade ladders.

There are a few historic buildings to sustain its tourism business.No ruins to attract visitors from afar. Buildings are made of locally handmade materials, indigenous to the parched soil; the coral, the stone, and the wood of myriad trees.

As we exited the car we were amazed by the piles of products to be used in the construction with little waste. Hans built this neighboring house.

Hans, originally from Germany, our landlord, neighbor, and now new friend, discovered Kenya in 1978, finding its richness and culture a lure he couldn’t resist. With a passion for construction and a desire to be a part of the development of his favored Diani Beach, Hans has provided much-needed jobs for the locals, making his roots firmly entrenched in the coral soil. 

This is the area where the pool is being constructed.  Rather than “pour” a pool as familiar to us, every inch of the interior and exterior are hand-engineered, one stone at a time.
These coral rocks for both the pool and the buildings are hand-dug on the premises.
The tall pile of pale blue stone is used to give the walls of the pool a blue color.
Coral and mortar, placed by hand, to build a swimming pool.
View of the future pool from the penthouse level.

Moving to Diana Beach permanently over two years ago, he and his lovely wife Jeri, from Nairobi, Kenya, have made Diani Beach their home as well as offering thoughtfully maintained vacation rentals along with the construction of future properties for sale.

These solid cement blocks are made on site in one of the future bedrooms!
This woman is working with the cement blocks.

Yesterday morning, Hans drove us to see one of his construction sites where no less than 50 local workers were deeply engrossed in completing this phase of the building project by the end of 2013. 

The water lines positioned within the walls of the units.
More branches, used as supports.

For us to see to the workers laboring in the hot morning sun, smiles on their faces, quick to offer an enthusiastic “jambo” greeting as we toured the huge project, our hearts skipped a beat. 

This is the stairway we took, albeit carefully, to the 3rd level to see the penthouse, also still under construction. We’ll be long gone by the time this project is completed, but Hans agreed to send us photos.
More coral and mortar used to build the walls on the interior and exterior of the building.
A future bathroom in one of the 2 bedroom units.
This method of securing the support for the ceilings was evident in almost every room, a sight neither of us had seen on a construction site.

This was life in Kenya surrounding us: the Maasai in their colorful robes; the young. athletic muscular men wearing long pants, no shirts, sweat glistening on their ebony skin;  the women, many mothers working to feed their families, wearing handcrafted tool belts while lifting heavy materials; and the older men, a lifetime of hard work etched into their deeply lined faces accentuated with a wide smile, the brightness of perfect white teeth a contrast against the rich dark skin.

Another view of the neighboring property from the penthouse level.

Walking over uneven ground through coral, stone, and rock, we followed Hans as we worked our way through the partially completed first of four large buildings to be built, each containing four large units, plus an elaborate penthouse. Once the four buildings are sold, Hans will begin building a comparable complex on an adjacent parcel of land, keeping these 50 workers and more in jobs for years to come.

“Jambo” yelled the workers as they smiled and waved to us.

Gingerly climbing up railing free cement stairways we worked our way throughout the entire structure, in awe of how different the construction was from that in the US. 

An archway being built on the penthouse level.  Here again, tree branches are used, in this case holding up the wooden mold in order to build the archway.

Literally, every major material used (except plumbing pipes and electrical lines), was made on-site by the hands of the workers: coral for the walls, hand-dug from the property’s grounds; the ladders, constructed with wood from fallen trees during the preparation of the land; the rebar made by hand as we watched up close; the solid cement blocks made in one of the future bedrooms, as we watched. 

Creative, economical use of land surrounding the building site to grow plants for future use.  How amazing is this!

A gardener tended a garden growing the future trees, plants, and shrubs, left our mouths agape in pure wonder over the sensible use of that which the environment so freely provides in abundance in Kenya. We couldn’t believe our eyes.

The beginnings of the garden that will supply the property’s landscaping.

The sun beating on us as we walked the massive uneven grounds, sweat pouring from us with nary a complaint, slightly overdressed in discrete clothing in respect for the Muslim way of life, prominent in Kenya, we didn’t want our exploration to end. 

The gardener was proud of his work.

Finally, we made our way back to the car to sip on our water-filled mugs to wait for Hans as he spoke to his foreman and workers. By noon, we were back on the road for the 12 minutes fast drive back to stop and pick up Jeri from her teaching job, heading back to our respective homes.

After stopping to pick up Jeri at the well guarded private home, she suggested lunch at a local Kenyan restaurant on the side on the road, where there was a row of tiny open-air thatched structures, where locals stopped to dine, day and night. 

The hut where locals dine on delicious food made without chemicals, with all ingredients locally grown.  Photos of foods follow below.

We giggled as we described it as Kenya’s “fast food” restaurants; low priced, fast, and delicious, the difference being healthfully made local foods, as opposed to the processed fast-food restaurants that we’re used to seeing in the US and around the world, none of which we’ve seen so far in Kenya.

When we returned from our outing, we walked over to Hans” and Jeri’s home to take photos of the local food they purchased for lunch at a total cost of Kenya Schillings $150, US $1.77. Yep, $1.77!  When was the last time any of us purchased a meal for 2 for under $1.00 each?
Ugali, a cornmeal staple is commonly enjoyed as a side dish is made entirely with flour and water, boiled to perfection.  Apparently, the flavor is fabulous.  None for either of us. In my old days, I sure would have gobbled this up, maybe adding butter and syrup.

Hans and Jeri suggested we try the food.  Most certainly, I would have had many of the items had they not been prepared with flour and starches. Tom, on the other hand, would hardly have enjoyed the seasoned, vegetable-laden items. Too bad. What a fine experience that would have been! However, we took photos of the food to share with our readers. Notice the total cost of the 2 meals under the photo.

Kenya stew may consist of beef, chicken or goat.

For more information about the foods of Kenya, click here. Tomorrow, in Part 2, we’ll share more details about the buildings, the hand made the making of rebar, the units for sale, drawings, plans, pricing of the units, and more photos. 

This is a chapatti, a flatbread comparable to a tortilla. This was especially hard to resist, soft, warm, and flexible, easy to fill with whatever one likes.

Over the upcoming weekend, we’ll be dining out twice, sharing those details and photos.  Our story of Kenya continues on…

Out on the town…A feast to be had…

Although most of the items on the menu were seafood related, most of which Tom doesn’t enjoy, he was thrilled to find some options that would be pleasing to his limited palate.

When asking locals as to best the restaurants in an area to try, thoughtfully they will suggest their familiar haunts, in their preferred price range and with the food that satisfies their own palate.  Although, we take suggestions to heart, we have our limitations to consider; my food restrictions and Tom’s somewhat limited taste buds.

For me, the menu was purely delightful.  It was difficult to decide when not a single option would be undesirable for me.

As a result, we have to be more creative.  With Tom’s mindset that he likes “all-American food” with minimal spices, he never ceases to amaze me when he tries new items when dining out or in the past, aboard ship.

In Kenya and as is typical all over Africa, many of the meals are heavily seasoned, fried, barbecued and with ingredients unsuitable for either of us.  Thus, being a little more creative, researching local restaurants and their often posted menus gives us a better idea to avoid disappointment.

This photo, from the Almanara Resort’s website is the lounge area adjoining the dining area.  Our photo didn’t turn out so well in the dark.  This area was emptywhen we arrived but full by the time we left a few hours later.

Of course, there’s a higher cost to more “continental cuisine,” an expense we are willing to bear in order to be able to enjoy a night out.  After the glorious experience of Saturday night, we’ve officially decided on Saturday nights as our official date night to try the suitable restaurants in the area. 

Many of the establishments are within walking distance. However, as the sun goes down by 6:30, the dangers of walking on the highway in the dark are many. A local cab driver, Chris, picked us up at 7:00, waiting for the restaurant to call him for our return, picking us up later in the evening. The cost for the round trip cab ride was KES $1100, US $12.59 which includes the tip. Not too bad.

This complimentary appetizers presented by the chef was out of the question for me. It was fried seaweed and stuff puff pastries, all made with flour.  However, much to my surprise, Tom ate all of it, finding it very tasty.  I think his limited taste buds “song and dance” is purely psychological when I see him enjoy new items.

With no phone we could use Skype to call the cab.  But as we inquired to our nighttime security guard, Jeremiah, he immediately called a programmed number in his phone and shortly later cab driver Chris arrived to take us to Sails Restaurant at the Almanara Resort.  

Both Chris and Jeremiah seemed excited that we wanted to go to the Almanara Resort when recently, the Kenyan president stayed in one of their luxurious suites. After dining at their own Sails Restaurant we understood why. The property was exquisite, the food amazing, the service impeccable and the security, over the top.

After Tom ate the seaweed, he didn’t want to spoil his dinner with another appetizer.  I ordered this salad, gluten free and the chef made the sauce without flour using a homemade mayonnaise base. There were no less than 8 large prawns in this salad.  In reality, this could easily have been my entire meal and I’d have been satisfied.  Look below for the huge entrée I also consumed in it entirety.  Piglet.

As Chris drove up to the massive gates at the Almanara Resort, we were impressed by the crisp uniforms, muscular build and confidence of the guards. Approaching the cab, he asked our names and nature of our visit.  Having luckily made a reservation online for 7:00 PM, he carefully reviewed his list of reservations and waved us through, opening the massive gates by hand.

Once we entered the property, another guard approached and directed Chris where to stop to drop us off. Chris had begun to walk us toward the restaurant area, only to be dismissed by the new guard to stay put, while he would escort us to the restaurant, a short two minute walk, on a well lit but uneven road. Thank goodness, I was wearing flat sandals. 

This amazing array of seafood was all grilled and seasoned to perfection. It contained lobster, prawns, octopus, squid, snapper and a few  chewy wormy looking items I didn’t recognize but ate anyway.  Need I say that I cleaned this plate as well?

Based on the road, neither of us was expecting much.  In the dark with the soft lighting surrounding the resort, we could only see lush vegetation and the outline of several substantial bungalows. Apparently, their rentals are “house sized suites” at varying costs of $1000’s per night. 

If the water stops running here, as it did in our first house in Belize, we won’t be moving to Almanara Resort as we did to LaruBeya where we stayed for over two months (see posts from end of February, 2013 to April 9, 2013 for photos and details).

Once seated, at this exact table as depicted in the daylight photo below from their website, we couldn’t have been more content, as shown by our lavish plates of epicurean delights.

 Tom’s dinner consisted of Fillet Mignon, fries, grilled vegetables.  He kept insisting that I try a taste of his steak, finally taking a bite of tender well seasoned meat.  He also, ate every morsel.

A few hours later, stuffed “to the gills,” we were ready to head back to our home to watch a movie on my laptop in bed under the mosquito netting. 

Apparently, we were told, our cab driver Chris waited for us in his original parking spot during our entire dinner. We tipped him well appreciating the great service for this short cab ride.

Our bill for dinner? Much less than one would pay in the US and other countries for fine food and service. Tom had a US $10 marguerite and a giant bottle of Pilsner beer while I had two bottles of fizzy mineral water. Add my appetizer and our two lavish entrees, the total bill was KES $5400, US $61.80, included VAT tax and 18% service charge (built in tip). 

We borrowed this daylight photo from the resort’s website.  It was dark as we were seated at this table.  Our photo didn’t do it justice.

Based on the quality of the service and Tom’s lack of change, we gave the waiter an additional KES $1000, US $11.44. Dinner, cab fare, tax and tips totaled KES $7500, US $85.83.  Having budgeted US $100 per week for dining out, we were on target. If, we find other restaurants at a lower cost, we’ll use the difference to offset the extra SIM cards we must purchase to be able to download our TV shows.

It was adult son’s birthday prompting us to call him on Skype. The cost for the call is free but the data use is huge which now is monitored. He and the grandkids were in their pool in their yard.  Daughter-in-law Camille turned on the speakerphone enabling us to speak with both of them and the 3 grandkids.  

Of course, we miss all four of our children, their significant others and our six precious grandchildren. In fifteen months, we’ll all be together again. 

Daughter Tammy’s birthday was Sunday but we were unable to reach her last night and will try again soon. 

Later watching Ironman 3, we drifted off to sleep, safely tucked away in our comfy bed with the secure mosquito netting, the fan at full speed above the bed for yet another restorative night’s sleep to arm us for the next day at home, batting off the mosquito.

We’d intended to write about the restaurant experience on Saturday night for Sunday’s post.  When the monkeys ran through the yard, we couldn’t wait one day to share that story so we flip flopped them. Makes sense, right

Pescia, referred to as “Little Italy,” with video and photos…Hot today in Pescia…Over 100 degrees F (C38 degrees)…

The young helpful butcher as he was preparing our meat who easily understood when I asked him to cut the bacon thicker, stating “spesso, denso and grosso” all of which got the message across. Most deli meats and cheeses are cut paper thin in Italy with customers ordering small portions as compared to our 800 gram orders.

Stumbling across this well done video of Pescia. Italy prompted me to forgo my feeble efforts at video taking and “borrow” this video I discovered on YouTube this morning.

These peaches and nectarines were huge and all organic.

Feel free to fast forward through the gentleman who’s talking in Italian, unless of course, you’ll be able to understand him. I’ve noticed in our blog stats that we’ve had hundreds of visitors from Italy reading our posts, many of whom will listen all the way through. These scenes are better than any shots we could have taken.

Bagged vegetables are more expensive. The bulk, pick your own produce, require that the customer wear plastic disposable gloves, which are provided, prior to touching anything.  Also, once placing the items in a plastic bag, I had to weigh each bag, selecting a matching photo of the item on a display screen which prints a price tag to be attached to the plastic bag. I’d planned to take a photo of the screen, but the work area was lined up with shoppers waiting for their turns. The prices are excellent, for example, the bag of 8 large organic tomatoes I purchased today was Euro $.78 which is US $1.03.

This morning we took off for Pescia at 11:00 am, down the hairpin turns bouncing along in our “sold” Fiat rental car that they’ve (Budget Rental) yet to swap out with us for another car. At this point, we doubt that they’ll bother to swap it as the time nears for our returning it to Venice on September 1, 2013.

More pre-wrapped produce that although more costly than the “pick your own” still was very affordable, as you can see from the prices here.

A quiet weekend behind us, we were enthused to venture out enjoying the views along the way and to get groceries, change, and gas for the car. After today’s shopping trip, we’ll only need to grocery shop on one more occasion before leaving Boveglio. How the time has flown!

Grocery shopping in Pescia has been a pleasure for me with the freshest of ingredients, most of which are organic. There is less than a single aisle devoted to snacks, candy, cookies, and chips, basically junk foods. 

A bakery, deli, and specialty meat and seafood area offer the finest products.  It’s not easy to resist their made-on-site pastries and bread.  I breeze by the bakery trying not to look. 

Tom, on the other hand, could try some of the pastries without consequence (other than weight gain) but he too walks by without a glance. The only item I’ve seen him eyeball is the glazed doughnuts. 

Not a typical Italian item, they are pricey at US $12.00 a dozen.  “Mr. Frugal,” commented several weeks ago that there was “no way,” he’d spend $12.00 for a container of glazed doughnuts.  Good.  His pants will fit when we leave here. 

The plan, as always, is to use any food products we have on hand with the intent of not being wasteful.  Basic ingredients such as spices, oils, baking soda, etc will gladly be left behind for the next visitors, as has been the case when we’ve left with other properties we’d rented.

The cheeses we are expensive, but well worth their prices. The rounds in the center on the right are a soft cheese, along the line of a Brie that I’ve enjoyed every night for dessert.

It may seem odd to begin the process of ‘winding down” at this early date with almost four weeks to go.  But, as we’ve indicated on numerous posts, we’re the king and queen of “planning ahead” leaving us with little stress at the end of our stay, other than loading our bags and ourselves into the car on the day we depart.

Shopping today was a good reminder of how much cooler it is in Boveglio than Pescia, which is 30 minutes down the mountains.  With little interest in grocery shopping, Tom will read his book while waiting in the car. 

Here are some of the deli meats we’ve purchased. We’ve found the beef to be tough here, instead, eating mostly eating chicken, pork and fish. Notice the price on the rare roast beef on the right-center at Euro $34.90 which translates to US $46.31 per gram (less than a pound).  We skipped that item!

Not today.  With the temperature over 100 degrees in Pescia, he found a place to sit outdoors in a shaded area in the parking lot for the over hour-long wait while I shopped in air-conditioned comfort. When the hour ended, he came inside to find me as always while together we finished in the deli and meat department.

Luckily, the butcher in the deli understood my translation for cutting the bacon “thick” as opposed to the manner in which they cut most deli meats, ultra-thin. As soon as I uttered “denso, spesso and grosso” he knew exactly what I meant. Meat is old in grams, not pounds. One pound of bacon is 453 grams. As I order each item, I explain how many grams I want. Typically, I ask for anywhere from 400 grams (.88 pounds) to 800 (1.76 pounds) grams. 

Any one of these cheeses is fabulous, a little pricey but worth it!

Today, I ordered 800 grams of the thick-sliced bacon which I divide into several packages, keeping it frozen, taking it out only as needed. With no nitrates in their meats, bacon spoils in as little as three days. This morning as I was making breakfast, I took out a small package of the remaining frozen bacon, which defrosted in a matter of 5 minutes. 

Learning to freeze and defrost foods quickly and safely has been a learning experience, something I always took for granted using a microwave since the 1970s. 

We’ve avoided these pre-made items, except for the delicious olive, many containing gluten, starch, sugar, and carbs, although many shoppers purchased a combination of these items to complete lunch or dinner.

Many mornings we add Italian sausage to our breakfast, which is trickier to defrost. The easiest solution would seem to be defrosting it overnight in the refrigerator. This leads to spoilage when some mornings we don’t want sausage. If we’d defrosted the sausage we’d feel compelled to eat it. As an alternative, I also keep smaller portions of sausage in plastic bags in the freezer. (There are no Ziploc bags here, only the old fashioned hard to open bags on a roll with those green wire ties).

Taking out the small bags, I place the sausage in a skillet with a bit of water with a tight-fitting lid. In 8 minutes, the sausage is defrosted and I pour off the water, proceeding to cook the sausage in the same pan which results in nicely browned properly cooked sausage. 

These extra steps take extra time and effort, but then again, what else do we have to do with our time other than to enjoy each meal as if it were our last?  Who would have thought that a lifetime of cooking would change so radically in a country with different standards, many of which are better for one’s health?

Arriving back in Boveglio around 2:30 pm, we rushed to get the groceries indoors out of the heat and put away.  When we returned the temperature in Boveglio was 95 degrees F (35 degrees C) with a little breeze. With no air conditioning, I would have been dreading spending the afternoon and evening in the heat. 

But now, as we’ve become more resilient, seldom complaining, we marvel at how much we’ve adapted.  In essence, it’s been life-changing going from an over-sized Subzero refrigerator with a separate ice machine to a tiny refrigerator, requiring frequent defrosting and the making of our own ice in tiny trays. This is one of a litany of the inconveniences to which we’ve adapted.

Surely, more such inconveniences will follow as we move from location to location, striving to learn, to accept, and to grow in the process.  Although, today I’m having trouble adapting to the flies biting me which… I doubt will be less bothersome in Africa.

Typical day in the life…

The blue in this photo is a small kiddy pool on the shared patio next door.  We don’t use that area due to the plants surrounding it that seems to attract more wasps and bees than on either our private patio or veranda. By the way, we do not take photos of topless sunbathers, often seen lounging on this shared patio.

A number of our friends have asked, “What do you guys do all day?”

With no yard work, no major cleaning, no visitors, no dog to walk, no nearby store or health club, no family coming for breakfast or dinner, no cable TV, and no English speaking neighbors to chat within the yard, how in the world could we possibly keep from getting bored?

This is not exclusively our dilemma.  Many retirees eventually move to a low maintenance lifestyle in warm climates far from family and friends, facing a similar situation. 

While living in Scottsdale, Arizona from November 4 to January 1, 2013, we were entrenched in such a lifestyle.

Tom’s sisters and brothers-in-law were living only a half-hour away in Apache Junction Arizona as they did each year to escape Minnesota’s rough winters. Connecting with them each week or so was a respite from our daily flurry of activities as we prepared to leave the US.

Switching back and forth between two local restaurants for breakfast every few mornings, dining out for dinner each week, and occasionally attending a local comedy club created a pleasant break in our daily routine.

During that two month period in Arizona, we were busy preparing documents to enable us to leave the US for an extended period, learning to use our new digital devices, preparing our taxes, and spending a week in Henderson Nevada with family over Christmas.  Actually, we visited Henderson on another occasion, to babysit our grand dog Monty while son Richard traveled out of town.

Without a doubt, it was a busy two months, not unlike the busy times spent with many of our retired friends who have condos in warm climates, living a rewarding and fulfilling life.

As for us living in Boveglio, it was a culture shock to realize no one and I mean no one speaks English. Not at the grocery store, not in the street, not a neighbor, not our landlords, not our cleaning lady, no one. Adapting to this reality has been challenging.

Much to my surprise, now when a person speaks to me in Italian I am able to decipher the gist of the conversation, although not able to translate word for word nor respond in other than a few Italian words I’ve managed to learn. 

Today, I researched the word for “thick” in Google Translate.  The butcher at the deli slices the bacon (US type) too thin, resulting in in cooking too quickly and well done. There are several options for “thick” in Italian: “spesso,” “denso,” “grosso.” We’ll see how it goes when we shop for groceries in the next few days when I attempt to explain the preferred thicker slicing of the bacon.

Two to three times per week someone rings our doorbell immediately speaking to me in Italian. (Tom refuses to answer the door, understanding less than my feeble attempt). They are either selling mops, brooms, and dustpans, frozen foods, looking for an address, looking for a person, or our kindly Santina, dropping off yet another bag filled with vegetables from her garden which we cook daily, never seeming to run out.

A few days ago, Tom and I chuckled over the fact that we’ve had more surprise visitors at the door in the past seven weeks since we’ve arrived in Boveglio, than we had in the prior seven years in our old lives, with each exchange challenging my language skills.

The point well-made: Not speaking Italian has had an enormous effect on the activities if our daily lives. So, how do we stay busy each day?

Here’s the rundown of our activities today.  Tom’s day is similar spending more time online than I do. (I’d be curious to hear from others as to their daily activities.  I wouldn’t be surprised if they’re similar.  Please do share).

7:30 am
Bolt out of bed.  Turn on the coffee. Shower and dress for the day.  Make the bed together.

8:00 am
Start a load of laundry.  Then, drink coffee and fire up the laptop, checking in.  Put away dried dishes from last night’s dinner.  (In my old life, I never left a plate to dry in the sink overnight).

8:30 am
Make breakfast: sausages, bacon, and eggs. Eat breakfast.

9:00 am
Do dishes. Decide on dinner. Hand cut the cabbage and carrots for the coleslaw, a daily task. There’s no pre-cut coleslaw mix here. Cutting it fresh each day seems to add to its crunchy texture. Slice and dice any other veggies for dinner.

9:30 am
Removed all the food in the freezer stacking it in the kitchen sink to begin the process of defrosting the freezer for the third time since we’ve arrived. The freezer is tiny. We need every inch of space for our next shopping trip. 

10:00 am
Tom poured the hot tea water into a pan, placing it in the freezer to aid in the defrosting process, repeating three times. Within a half-hour, the freezer was defrosted. I replaced the food, noting what we have on hand for the upcoming shopping trip.

10:30 am
Took the laundry out of the washer, starting another load of whites, hanging it outside on the patio (where the bees congregate). Quickly hung the laundry, in another successful attempt to avoid being stung.

11:00 pm
Made hot tea, taking it out to the veranda with my laptop in hand, to begin writing this post, while responding to email, etc. Continued to check the laundry. When the sweat started dripping off of me, I switched to iced tea, capping off the liter container. Used the remaining hot water in the coffee machine to make a new batch of iced tea.

11:30 am
Observed topless woman arranging her chaise lounge on the patio next door. Mentioned this to Tom. Using his monitor as a mirror, he checked it out to no avail. Turning around would have been tacky and obvious. I had a better vantage point.

11:56 pm
Heard twelve clangs of the clock tower next door, always four to five minutes early, repeating at 11:58.  Removed the second load of laundry from the washer heading out to our patio to hang today’s final load. Finished making the pitcher of iced tea, chilling it in the fridge. Back to the veranda to work on my laptop.

1:00 pm
Laptop batteries were almost dead. Returned laptops to the kitchen table to recharge and began downloading TV shows and movies from Graboid for tonight’s viewing. Sat in the living room, playing Gin with Tom while English speaking international news program played in the background.  He won.

2:30 pm
Laptop batteries recharged, Tom headed back to the veranda while I read my latest mystery novel on my smartphone while lounging on the lumpy 100-year-old sofa in the living room. It was 95 degrees and steamy yesterday. Today it was only 90 but steamy as a gentle breeze wafted from the living room window, the opening now covered with mosquito netting, keeping the bees and flies at bay.

4:30 pm
Tea time, a daily ritual, hot or not. Tom had already showered and returned to the veranda with his charged laptop.  I brought in the now dry laundry from the patio while once again batted off the bees, folded everything, and put it all away.

5:45 pm
Begin final prep for our dinner, planned as usual for 7:00 pm. Yesterday, I prepared, but didn’t cook our dinner for tonight, a common practice with no microwave, making two night’s meals, cooking one each night for optimum freshness and enjoyment. Chopped more zucchini, to soon be cooked in olive oil with fresh garlic and herbs from the garden.

6:00 pm
Arranged the clean and dry tablecloth onto the kitchen table, setting our places for dinner: linen napkins, forks, and sharp knives.

6:15 pm
Mixed up the coleslaw dividing it into two batches and placed them back into the refrigerator to stay cold.  Preheated the oven to bake the cheesy chicken/bacon roll-ups, a recipe I got off Facebook, which I modified with local ingredients. Chopped the sausage and onion for the stir fry side dish. Prepared the fresh green beans. It’s a good thing that Tom does the dishes with so many pots to wash. Good thing there are enough pots in which to cook.

6:30 pm
Put the chicken in the oven. Started the stir fry sausage and onions.

This is the pan of yet to be cooked bacon and pancetta-wrapped chicken scallopini (thin slices of chicken breasts pounded by the butcher) that I stuffed with seasoned ricotta cheese and chopped herbs from our private garden, wrapping them in in the two versions of “bacon,” Tom prefers regular US-style bacon and me, loving the thin-sliced pancetta.  These cooked for 30 minutes at 375 degrees (180 centigrade). I topped this with an Italian pesto sauce I’d made using ingredients from the garden.

6:45 pm
Started the green beans. Reheated the zucchini. Tended to the stir fry as it cooked.

7:00 pm
Served dinner with each of us easily moving through the kitchen to fill our various plates with a wide array of food. Sat at the kitchen table eating our meal while watching a show, a favorite ritual when its just the two of us. Again tonight, we watched another episode of the current season of  “America’s Got Talent.” More light entertainment we find to be rather humorous and entertaining.

7:45 pm
Having enjoyed our dinner with the show over, Tom washed the mountain of dishes while I cleaned off the table the stove, and the countertops.

8:15 pm
Set up my laptop in the living room in order for us to watch two shows tonight, the final first season’s episode of The Killing (AMC) as well as episode 5 of House of Cards (Netflix production). Positioned ourselves as comfortably as possible on the lumpy 100-year-old sofa. 

9:45 pm
Finished watching the two shows.  Downloaded from Graboid, there are no commercials reducing the actual viewing time. It’s at this time, I usually take my smartphone to bed to read until Tom comes to bed.  (I read my downloaded ebooks on the same smartphone I’d dropped on the cement in March in Belize. Never having had the screen repaired due to the inconvenience of shipping it back and forth, I quickly read the first sentence at the top of the screen which was the most damaged area. Once past that first sentence, the remainder of the reading is a breeze.

11:30 pm
Tom came to bed, his smartphone in hand to read his book while I attempt to go to sleep. By midnight, he turns off his phone, lightly snoring a few minutes later.

12:00 am
Tossing and turning I struggled to find a comfortable spot for my still painful but improved right shoulder.  Within a half-hour, blissful slumber overtakes me only to be interrupted by dreams of having to get up to go to “work,” driving in the snow, office politics, deadlines, trying to achieve the impossible, a true “frustration dream” often similarly repeated several times a week. 

Does this mean I feel guilty about our simple life, our never boring routine? I don’t feel guilty, but I do still pinch myself every few days as many retirees may do, asking themselves, “Am I really free? Is it true that I don’t have to go back to work on Monday morning? May I now enjoy Sunday afternoons, angst-free, knowing that Mondays are just another “typical day in the life?