A local gem in Carna, Connemara…A little powerhouse of flavor…

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Don’t be fooled by this tiny building.  Its a powerhouse of flavor.  The finest takeaway in Connemara or perhaps even in Ireland, this tiny building offers outstanding fresh-caught seafood, fish and chips and many other items.  See menu below.

“Fascinating Fact of the Day About Ireland” 

“The most popular sport in Ireland is Gaelic football, followed by
Hurling. Both sports are native to Ireland. Collectively – along with Gaelic
handball, rounders, and others – the sports are known as the Gaelic games, under
the aegis of the Gaelic Athletic Association.”
________________________________________



When I had fresh-caught hake ready to cook for dinner, Tom decided he’d like to return to O’Flaherty’s Takeaway in Carna for fish and chips.  I’d prefer not to cook this dish for him since it requires a deep fryer and lots of vegetable oil which we don’t use or have on hand.  Plus, it’s messy.

Located at the Carna edge of town, this spot offers an extensive menu with fantastic flavors, cooked to order.

We left the house at 1545 hours, 3:45 pm, to make the 20-minute drive to the small town of Carna.  The fantastic little takeaway restaurant opens at 1300 hours, 1:00 pm and later on other days.  It’s a great idea to check online to see if O’Flaherty’s is opened since opening hours may vary and they close during the winter months with less tourist.

The tinfoil packet contains non-breaded calamari for me.  This thriving business, owned by Theresa and John O’Flaherty, (John, the fish guy) is a must-visit when in the Connemara area. 

But, believe me, it’s worth the effort, the 30 seconds it takes to check online or call to confirm they are open, especially as the summer season ends.  They can be reached at 087 316 2444.

Freshly prepped ingredients may be added to certain menu options.  Theresa makes the tangiest, best-tasting tartar sauce I’ve ever had.

Please see this map for easy directions to O’Flaherty’s from anywhere in Connemara.  With all the excellent reviews they’ve had, many tourists are inspired to make the drive, regardless of how far away they’re located.

Although the cooking area is small, it’s kept meticulously clean.

We knew John, as our weekly “fish guy” who stops by the house weekly with his truck filled and chilled with the fresh local daily catch.  There are many options and I’ve never had a problem deciding on what to purchase. 

John’s visits have inspired me to try types of fish I’ve never tried in the past and have added to our Irish experience.  See this post here when we included a photo of John and his weekly visits.

The daily menu changes based on the availability of fresh fish John’s brought in for the day.

As mentioned in the past, Tom’s not a huge fish enthusiast. But he can’t get enough of fish and chips, especially those from O’Flaherty’s.  He’s often ordered this meal in many locations we’ve visited throughout the world but only O’Flaherty’s and at Namale, Tony Robbins Resort and Spa in Fiji in 2015, are memorable.  See this link here for that meal.

There are plenty of delicious non-fish items for those who accompany a fish lover that longs to try the seafood options.

I was literally drooling on the ride back to our holiday home as he ate the sizeable portion of chips (fries) from a sturdy cardboard cone container.  He enjoyed them so much, he had to go out to the rental car this morning to wash the steering wheel. But, I never tasted one, nor have I eaten a single chip in almost eight years.  It’s best not to.

Tom always orders the fish and chips.  He can choose the type of fish he’d like as shown on the daily menu.  The fish is at the bottom of this sturdy cardboard container.
Theresa, John’s lovely wife was friendly and welcoming. We chatted about the restaurant, our travels and raved about John for the good service he’s provided since we arrived in Glinsce on May 11th.  We gave her a business card suggesting she check out our site later today after we’ve uploaded this story.
Tom’s fish and chips.  I gave him my chips which he ate in the car on the ride back to the house.  Piglet.

The restaurant was ultra-clean, the ingredients and fish fresh and ready for the day’s requested items and the location conveniently located at the southeastern edge of the town of Carna.

My grilled calamari and hake sauteed in garlic, olive oil, and butter.  Delicious!!!

Once back at home with the hot food, we prepared our plates.  Earlier in the day, I’d made a new favorite vegetable side, sauteed shredded cabbage with onions and garlic.  Since we’re grocery shopping today, we were out of green vegetables, which surely would have made my plate more pleasing to the eye.

Theresa and John have five or six friendly, adorable dogs hanging out in the backyard.

But the taste?  Over the top…wonderful!  I can’t wait to return a time or two before we depart on August 8th, a mere 20 days from today.


O’Flaherty’s Restaurant is a special spot,  big on charm, local history and some of the finest food in the land…add the two warm and friendly hosts and it’s absolutely irresistible.  These types of experiences leave us with memories emblazoned in our minds forever.

We not only got a “food-fix” but also a “puppy fix” while visiting.

Have an enriching day and evening.

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Photo from one year ago today, July 19, 2018:
The gestation period for African zebras is typically 13 months.  For more zebra photos on Zebra Day, please click here.

Part 3…Kylemore Abbey…A romantic gift lives on…A tragic love story…

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A wedding gown of the era.

“Fascinating Fact of the Day About Ireland” 


“Leprechauns originate in Irish folklore as
a fairy in the form of a tiny old man often with a cocked
hat and leather apron. The word derives from the Old Irish word luchorpan, meaning ‘little body’.”
____________________________________________
As we wandered through the rooms of Kylemore Castle, we were reminded of many historical castles, museums, and homes we’ve toured during our travels.  In a considerably lesser manner, Kylemore’s furnishings reminded us of some of the furnishings in Versailles, although definitely not as elaborate. To see those photos, please click here.


After all, a king, Louis XIII, built the magnificent French palace, not a simple businessman like Henry Mitchell a few centuries later.  But, Margaret and Henry, as world travelers, surely have visited Versaille and other great castles while their castle was being built in Ireland.
The interior of Kylemore Abbey’s castle was renovated in recent years honoring the design and style of the era.
Sadly, Margaret’s life was cut short while traveling as explained in the following from this site:

“A Tragic Love Story

As you enter the front door of Kylemore Abbey you cannot help but notice the beautiful carved angel which guards over it. In the hands of that angel is the coat of arms of Margaret Henry’s birth family, the Vaughan’s of County Down. 


Margaret’s Coat of Arms over the front door proudly proclaim this as her castle. Look more closely and you will also see charming carvings of birds which were a favorite motif of the Henry’s. The birds represented the Henry’s hope that Kylemore would become the ‘nesting’ place of their family. Indeed Kylemore did provide an idyllic retreat from the hustle and bustle of life in London where, even for the very wealthy, life was made difficult by the polluted atmosphere caused by the Industrial Age.

This chaise certainly appeared to be comfortable.

At Kylemore Margaret, Mitchell and their large family reveled in the outdoor life of the ‘Connemara Highlands’. Margaret took on the role of the country lady and became much loved by the local tenants. Her passion for travel and eye for beauty were reflected in the sumptuous interiors where Italian and Irish craftsmen worked side by side to create the ‘family nest’. Sadly the idyllic life did not last long for the Henrys.


In 1874 just a few years after the castle was completed, the Henry family departed Kylemore for a luxurious holiday in Egypt. Margaret was struck ill while traveling and despite all efforts, nothing could be done and after two weeks of suffering she died.  She was 45 years old and her youngest daughter, Violet, was just two years old. Mitchell was heartbroken. 

An authentic horse tricycle, hand pedaled,  used by the Mitchell children.

Margaret’s body was beautifully embalmed in Cairo before being returned to Kylemore. According to local lore, Margaret lay in a glass coffin which was placed beneath the grand staircase in the front hall, where family and tenants alike could come to pay their respects. In an age when all funerals were held in the home, this is not as unusual as it may first seem. In time Margaret’s remains were placed in a modest red-brick mausoleum in the woodlands of her beloved Kylemore.


Although Henry remained on at Kylemore life for him there was never the same again. His older children helped him to manage the estate and care for the younger ones, as he attempted to continue his vision for improvements and hold on to his political career. By now he had become a prominent figure in Irish politics and was a founding member of Isaac Butt’s Home Rule movement. 
“The rocking horse as we know it dates back to the 17th Century when wooden rocking horses first appeared in Europe. A very few of these early rocking horses still survive in museums and private collections. These include one of the earliest ridden by King Charles I of England when he was a boy.”

In 1878 work began on the neo-Gothic Church which was built as a beautiful and lasting testament to Henry’s love for his wife. Margaret’s remains were, for some reason, never moved to the vaults beneath the church and to this day she lays along with Mitchell in the little Mausoleum nestled in the woods.”


In that era, medicines were yet to be discovered that could possibly have saved her life.  One can only imagine how sorrowful her death was to Henry and their young children which occurred only a short time after the completion of the castle.
Another wedding dress from the era, the 1700s.  This may be comparable to the gown worn by Margaret Vaughn Mitchell.
As much as we all whine about the incompetencies and stresses as a result of medicine, Big Pharma, politics, traffic and much more, we are lucky to live in these times.  


As hard as the walk was for me at Kylemore Abbey, I am grateful to be alive and still continue to try to make each day memorable.  Today, I started walking upstairs, trying for 10 flights a day, to build my stamina.  
Ornate fireplace.
Stairs are the hardest part for me at this point and although I struggle with each step on the spiral staircase, doing so regularly can only help build my strength.


Again, no cleaner today due to her recent illness.  Tom and I will take care of it ourselves, him doing the floors and me cleaning the kitchen and two baths all of which is a good exercise for me. 
In the era, it was commonplace for “gentlemen” to use a walking stick when out and about, as well as those who may have needed to use one of these ornate canes.
That’s it for our Kylemore Abbey story and photos.  Today, it is exactly three weeks until we head for the airport in Dublin where we’ll spend one night and fly to Amsterdam, The Netherlands, the next day.


Enjoy every moment of your day and evening!
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Photo from one year ago today, July 18, 2018:

When capturing this hippo and cattle egret in the bright sun from quite a distance, we didn’t realize there was a croc in the photo until we uploaded the photo.  For more photos, please click here.

Part 2…Kylemore Abbey…A romantic gift lives on…A tough walk required to explore…

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The view across Lough Pollaacapull is seen from the castle’s veranda.

“Fascinating Fact of the Day About Ireland” 

“One of the most curious facts about Ireland takes place in the town of
Killorglin in the Reeks District. Here, a festival known as the Puck Fair sees a goat crowned as King Puck for three days. The Queen of Puck, traditionally a local young schoolgirl, crowns the goat.”

The story continues today with photos and the history of the Benedictine Nuns of Kylemore Abbey. Here is the link to the property’s website with a wealth of information if you’d like to read further.

Unfortunately, due to the walk up a long and steep hill to the actual abbey, we could only enjoy the views from afar, which didn’t produce good photos due to the distance.
As we approached the enchanting Kylemore Abbey Castle. 

Below is a photo that we borrowed from their site of the exterior of the Neo-Gothic Catholic Church.

“For more than a century, Kylemore has been the romantic nineteenth-century Irish castle overlooking a lake in the West of Ireland. Just a five-minute (steep) walk along the shores of Lough Pollacapull lies Kylemore’s enchanting neo-Gothic Church. 

Kylemore Abbey’s Neo-Gothic Church was built in the style of a fourteenth-century. Described as a ‘Cathedral in Miniature,’ this elegant building is a lasting testament to the love of Mitchell Henry for his wife, Margaret. On your visit, you may be lucky enough to enjoy one of the many musical performances that take place here throughout the year.”
Please excuse the blurry photo (not our photo) of the neo-Gothic Catholic Church located on the ground of Kylemore Abbey.

“Benedictine nuns of Kylemore Abbey

The present Benedictine nuns of Kylemore Abbey have a long history, beginning at Brussels in 1598. Following the suppression of religious houses in the British Isles, British Catholics left England and opened religious places abroad. Several monasteries originated from one Benedictine house in Brussels, founded by Lady Mary Percy in 1598.

Houses founded from Lady Mary’s house in Brussels were at Cambray in France (now Stanbrook in England) and Ghent (now Oulton Abbey) in Staffordshire. Ghent, in turn, founded several Benedictine Houses, one of which was at Ypres. Kylemore Abbey is the oldest of the Irish Benedictine Abbeys.

There are numerous religious statues and displays throughout the castle.

The community of nuns, who have resided here since 1920, has a long history stretching back almost three hundred and forty years. Founded in Ypres, Belgium, in 1665, the house was formally made over to the Irish nation in 1682. The purpose of the abbey at Ypres was to provide education and a religious community for Irish women during times of persecution here in Ireland.

Down through the centuries, Ypres Abbey attracted the daughters of the Irish nobility, both as students and postulants, and enjoyed the patronage of many influential Irish families living in exile.

Mitchell Henry, digitized portrait who built the castle for his beloved wife, Magaret Vaughn Mitchell, in 1867.

At the request of King James II, the nuns moved to Dublin in 1688. However, they returned to Ypres following James’s defeat at the Battle of the Boyne in 1690. The community finally left Ypres after the Abbey was destroyed in the early days of World War One. 

The community first took refuge in England and later in Co Wexford before eventually settling in Kylemore in December 1920. At Kylemore, the nuns reopened their international boarding school and established a day school for local girls. 

Margaret Vaughn Mitchell’s digitized portrait.

They also ran a farm and guesthouse; the guesthouse was closed after a devastating fire in 1959. In 2010, the Girl’s Boarding School was closed, and the nuns have since been developing new education and retreat activities.”

The property’s peaceful environment, including the Victorian Walled Garden, left us smiling, grateful we’d taken the time and effort to see what we were able to see.

Riding boots.  Horseback riding was prevalent in this period.
I suppose this is how it will be with tours at ports of call during our upcoming Baltic cruise. I can’t imagine I’ll have a lot more improvement in the next three weeks when we head to Amsterdam. But, I’ll continue to do the best I can to increase my stamina. 
Visitors aren’t allowed to view the second floor occupied by the nuns.
Have a fantastic “hump day” for those still working. And a great “all-of-the-days-of-the-week-are-the-same” for us retirees!                            
                

Photo from one year ago today, July 17, 2018:

That morning’s 17 kudus in the garden. See the video at this link for details.

Part 1…Kylemore Abbey…A romantic gift lives on…A tough walk required to explore…

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This is the over-the-top Kylemore Abbey, a former home, castle, and grounds of a wealthy family in the 1800s.

“Fascinating Fact of the Day About Ireland” 

“The MacGillycuddy’s Reeks are Ireland’s highest mountain range, home
to Carrauntoohil, which at 1,038m (3,406 ft) is Ireland’s highest mountain.“
Visiting Kylemore Abbey was a test for me. With the 1000 acre property, the Victorian Walled Garden (to which we could access the entrance to the gardens by shuttle bus), there was no doubt in our minds that a lot of walking up and downs hills would be necessary to fully enjoy our self-tour.
Sadly, I was sorely disappointed, not in the exquisite property but in my own lack of ability to easily walk through the stunning historical property. We made it to the ticketing entrance, the shuttle bus station for a ride to the gardens but not through the garden on many hilly trails.  
A lake, Lough Pollaacapull, highlights the property upon entering the grounds.

In the massive castle, only the first floor is available for viewing. The Benedictine nuns occupy the second floor and, overall, see to the management of the outstanding property. 

For the average person, there would be no issue touring this property but for me, still, a long way from full recovery, struggled every step of the way. However, I was never disappointed for venturing out to see this special property and did the best I could.  

The grounds and the gardens are meticulously groomed.
We didn’t miss too much other than parts of the garden and the abbey.  Today and over the next few days, we’ll share our photos here. The castle itself reminded me of the day in August 2014 when we visited Highclere Castle (see Part 1 of Highclere Castle may be found here. See photo below):
We held our breath as we approached Highclare Castle, home of the famed BBC Downton Abbey TV series. No interior photos were allowed.  Please click here for interior photos of the house and here for Part 1 of our post in August 2104.
Before we walked to the castle, we took the shuttle bus to the gardens a five-minute ride through lush tall trees and abundant greenery.  If only we could have toured the entire garden by shuttle, that would have been ideal.

Once we arrived in the garden to begin the walk, I knew I wouldn’t make it very far. There were benches for resting but on the busy Sunday, there were all occupied with other weary visitors. Even for the most well-conditioned seniors, the walk may have been challenging.

We walked to this location to catch the shuttle to the walled garden.

In a short while, we walked back to the shuttle bus pickup station and I was relieved to get a seat on the bus. Then, we had to tackle the steep uphill walk on a smooth paved road to access the castle. Once we arrived, I was OK and able to tour the castle with relative ease.

Once inside the castle, the love and care given to this fine property were evident. Here is the beautiful and also sorrowful story at this link about the building of the castle by Mitchell Henry for his beloved wife, Margaret Vaughn Henry:
The exquisite Victorian Walled Garden in the 1000 acre property requires the use of a shuttle which is included in the ticket price, Euro 10.50, US $11.80 per senior.

“Kylemore’s foundation stone was laid on September 4, 1867, for Margaret Vaughan Henry, the wife of Mitchell Henry. The estate had been bought and planned as an elaborate love token for Margaret and as a ‘nesting place’ for the growing Henry family. 

During our world travels, we’ve visited many botanical gardens open to the public, private gardens and gardens adjoining a variety of sightseeing venues. Of course, nothing compares to Versailles in France as shown in the photo below.

Although Mitchell Henry was born in Manchester he proudly proclaimed that every drop of blood that ran in his veins was Irish. It was to Ireland that he brought Margaret on honeymoon in the mid-1840s and where they first saw the hunting lodge in the valley of Kylemore that would eventually become their magnificent home. 

This was my favorite scene and photos from the Gardens of Versailles which we visited in August 2014. See here for photos, details and, Part 1 of our Versailles tour.

Although they visited Connemara in a time of hunger, disease, and desperation, Mitchell could see the potential to bring change and economic growth to the area. The son of a wealthy Manchester cotton merchant of Irish origin, Mitchell was a skilled pathologist and eye surgeon. In fact, before he was thirty years of age, he had a successful Harley Street practice and is known to have been one of the youngest ever speakers at the Royal College of Surgeons in London. 

On his father’s death, Mitchell inherited a hugely successful family business and became one of the wealthiest young men in Britain at the time. Mitchell lost no time in quitting his medical career and turning instead to liberal politics where he felt he could change the world for the better. His newfound wealth also allowed him to buy Kylemore Lodge and construct the magnificent castle.

This is the head gardener’s house and bothy.  A bothy is described as follows: A bothy is a basic shelter, usually left unlocked and available for anyone to use free of charge. It was also a term for basic accommodation, usually for gardeners or other workers on an estate. Bothies are to be found in remote mountainous areas of Scotland, Northern England, Northern Ireland, and Wales. 

Designed by Irish architect James Franklin Fuller and the engineer Ussher Roberts Kylemore boasted all the innovations of the Victorian Age. There were 33 bedrooms, four bathrooms, four sitting rooms, a ballroom, billiard room, library, study, school room, smoking room, gun room, and various offices and domestic staff residences, as well as gardens, walks, and woodlands which eventually covered 13,000 acres of land at the cost of little over £18,000 (Euro 19932, US $23,270. 

The building on the upper right is referred to as the “glass house” which, to most of us is a greenhouse.

During construction, the sound of dynamite blasts were heard in Connemara for the first time as the castle was carefully set into the face of the mountain. This achieved the exact positioning required which to this day gives the castle its iconic appearance perfectly reflected in Lough Pollaacapull.”

Tomorrow, we’ll be back with more photos including the interior of the castle and the continuing story of its owners. Please check back.  


Be well. Be healthy. Be happy.
                    
Photo from one year ago today, July 16, 2018:
Once Tom spotted this female lion through his binoculars he grabbed the camera to zoom in as shown. For more photos, please click here.

Missunderstood Heron?…What’s that?…

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The scenery of the Killary Fjord directly behind the Misunderstood Heron couldn’t have been more breathtaking!

“Fascinating Fact of the Day About Ireland” 

“The Guinness World Records, a reference book published annually listing world records, came about in 1954 when the managing director of Guinness attended a shooting party and argued with other competitors about the fastest game bird in Europe, and failed to find an answer in any available reference book.”

A sunny day coupled with our lack of new photos has prompted us to get out for some sightseeing, especially when we’d have an opportunity to travel on unfamiliar roads.

The roads to our two chosen locations, the Misunderstood Heron and the historic Kylemore Abbey, were as scenic, narrow, and winding as we’ve experienced closer to our home base.

Visitors can hike in the scenic area and then head to the food truck for food and refreshment.

The two venues are no more than 15 minutes apart, 10.5 km, 6.5 miles, so it made sense to see both sites in one day. With the day’s post uploaded and dinner in the refrigerator to be cooked if we didn’t eat at the food truck, we were free to spend as much time out as we’d like. It proved to be a full day.

Today, we’re sharing photos and the story of the Misunderstood  Heron (correct spelling), a highly unique dining establishment, originally an actual food truck but now a converted shipping container, offering more space for their food prep.

The sign outside the remodeled container represents a food truck.  Note the spelling of the name.

Also, we’d planned this outing to see how I’d do with the tremendous amount of walking required at the Kylemore Abbey. More on that tomorrow.

In the event we chose to buy dinner-to-go from the food truck, we brought along an insulated bag but after years of travel seems to have lost some of its ability to keep things cold for long.  

Most of the items on the menu appealed to me but weren’t suitable for my way of eating without considerable modifications.  As busy as it was, there was no way I’d ask.  Tom didn’t care for any of the items on the menu.

Subsequently, we visited Kylemore Abbey first. If we purchased dinner first, we’d have been rushing at the abbey, concerned the food would spoil. We love low-stress days.

We hadn’t been sightseeing on a Sunday, preferring to go out on weekdays to avoid crowds and traffic. Were we in for a big surprise when the long queues of slow driving vehicles occupied the narrow roads. With no shoulders on the winding roads, passing is dangerous.

As mentioned here in the past, Tom is an impatient driver with little tolerance for traffic. Fortunately, he kept his cool, knowing we were in no rush and the long drive to both locations was fine. Had we not needed photos so desperately, we would have waited until midweek when both locations were open simultaneously.  

Many tourists head to this remote location which is well advertised in tourist information materials.

The Misunderstood Herons simple reality hit home with many other tourists and us. Not only are online reviews excellent, but the enthusiasm on the faces of visitors certainly indicated their pleasure at visiting this unique eating establishment with one of the finest views in the land.

From their website here, we are sharing the following. They wrote:

“How does one come to set up a food truck in the middle of nowhere? Love of food, Connemara, and each other.

We have both always wanted to run our own business, and when our time in Dublin was coming to an end, the brainstorming began on what we could do to make a living in Connemara. We both love food but didn’t have enough money to buy or rent a kitchen to operate from. We had seen the food truck movement in the states and thought that we could do something similar here while focusing on good coffee and simple, fresh, and tasty food.

We searched deals for second-hand food trucks within our budget, found one that hit the mark, and just went for it. With much help from friends and family, we managed to open up in time for Easter 2017. It was starting small with very few foods and drink options. We wanted to focus on doing what we did well and growing from there.

A wooden spool converted to a chair!

Now going into our third season, the time has come when we have outgrown the original truck and need a bigger space to prepare and cook in. Our answer is a 20ft, a second-hand container which we are converting into a kitchen on wheels. The design is funky, unique, and still has the same feel as the original truck with hatch service and outdoor seating. 

With the addition of a looped coastal path at Killary Adventure Center, we decided to move the location to this car park which is 50m down from our original site. From Easter 2019 onwards, people can go for a walk along the shore and finish off with a bite to eat and a cup of coffee.

With great reviews on TripAdvisor, it’s no wonder, so many visitors stop by the unique eatery with its stunning scenery.

We will keep making our food with the same ethos of tasty, simple, fresh, and local.”

We were both impressed by their ingenuity and fortitude in making such a success of their unique business. They’ve received many awards and write-ups in publications worldwide.

The stupendous view behind the Misunderstood Heron food truck, overlooking the majestic Killary Fjord in Connemara County Galway. 

Although there wasn’t anything suitable for my way of eating, nor were the menu options appealing to Tom’s taste buds, we were thrilled to have visited the enchanting Misunderstood Heron (great name!) while relishing in the exquisite surroundings.

Enjoy the day!

Photo from one year ago today, July 15, 2018:

We stopped along the Crocodile River for a few exciting photos. For more, please click here.

The Amazing Race…Baby steps…

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We are hanging out, not doing much, like me.

“Fascinating Fact of the Day About Ireland” 

“With 22 letters, the town of Muckanaghederdauhaulia is believed to be
Ireland’s longest one-word place name. The name derives from Muiceanach
idir Dhá Sháilemeaning, meaning ‘pig-marsh between two salt waters.’”
We’re not thrilled with today’s photos, but they are the last we had we hadn’t previously posted. This fact has motivated us to get out today. With the sky clear, we’re taking off as soon as we upload this post.
 
We could be gone for several hours, and it made sense to get today’s post online, leaving us free to take our time. Once it’s past 4:00 pm, I find I have a hard time sitting down to prepare a post. I’m a morning person.
Cow grazing by the fence along our driveway.

Although I continue to improve each day and no longer wear any plasters or bandages, I’m still not 100%, primarily due to becoming exhausted in the early afternoon. Today will be good practice for me to deal with the feeling of exhaustion while out and about.

After all, we’ll be on a cruise in 28 days. I need to be ready to visit many ports of call along the way, including two full days in St. Petersburg, Russia, on tour with about 12 other passengers. I’ll have to keep up.  

I’m trying, forcing myself to walk several thousand steps a day and climb that steep hill in front of the house at least four times a week, going a little further each time.
Mom and baby.

Today’s tour will require a fair amount of walking, another opportunity to see how I do.  I haven’t felt like going out much, and that’s why we are low on photos, having used the last in our inventory today, none of which are very exciting.  

Two days ago was the five-month anniversary of the bypass surgery. I’ve beat myself up for not progressing more quickly, but after reading online forums, I’m doing pretty well compared to many others.  

Black cow with yellow ear tags.  Animals aren’t branded in Ireland and many other countries. In today’s world, with concern for efficiency and the animal’s well-being, plastic ear tags are used. It is claimed it is no more painful than a human having an ear pierced.

Some patients recover in three to four months, while others may take a year or more. If it weren’t for the lack of energy and afternoon exhaustion, I’d feel great.

Lately, during the many quiet days and evenings we’ve spent “at home,” I’ve been watching a few missed seasons of The Amazing Race, finding it a perfect distraction from feeling lazy and physically unmotivated.  

A portion of one of last night’s episodes from Season 27, which I watched at 10:00 pm while Tom played with his computer, took place in Zambia and Zimbabwe, Africa.  

Big brown cow.

Having been to both of these countries twice, it was fun to see the contestants tackle tasks in places we’ve been to during our time in these countries. We’ve been to approximately 80% of the locations they visit, if not more.

When looking back to our tour of Victoria Falls in 2018, both from Zambia and Zimbabwe sides of the falls, I recall how much I struggled to make it up the hills and steps. Below is a photo of Tom crossing a bridge in Victoria Falls while I stayed behind, feeling I couldn’t make it. Blamed it on lack of surefootedness.  Now I realized I couldn’t breathe, and my legs could hardly move due to a lack of blood flow.

I was happy to see Tom safely return from climbing to the top of the wet slippery bridge. Tom tackled this wet bridge without me. I’m not reasonably as surefooted as he is. It was slick, the visibility was poor, and I wouldn’t have been able to take photos in the heavy mist, so I stayed behind with Alec while we awaited his return. I was getting worried when he’d been gone a long time.  Seeing him in his yellow poncho made me sigh with relief. See the post here.
Then, I realized why I struggled the past almost seven years in the country after country, on tour after tour, when my heart had three (of four) major arteries 100% blocked, most likely for years. It amazed me (and the doctors) I avoided a deadly heart attack. It’s no wonder I was often struggling to climb steep hills and many steps while we were sightseeing.

Regardless of the tiredness, I’m feeling hopeful, knowing eventually this will improve. I am grateful to be alive and to be able to continue this magnificent journey, one baby step at a time.  

We’ll be back tomorrow with new and, hopefully, more exciting photos than we presented today.
Have a peaceful Sunday.                         

                         Photo from one year ago today, July 14, 2018:
Louise and Danie joined us for dinner last night at Kambaku, the popular restaurant at the golf course in Komatipoort, as we celebrated their belated birthdays. For more details, please click here.

Remembering…Woulda, coulda, shoulda…

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“Do you have any carrots?”

“Fascinating Fact of the Day About Ireland”  
“Since the foundation of the Irish Free State in 1922, the Irish harp has been the official emblem of Ireland, not the shamrock which is more commonly used.”

What is the quality of life we strive to achieve when at any moment, we can start over again to create a better life? Our lives are a compilation of memories, from moment to moment, day to day, and year to year.
A ruin with a tin roof.

And, yet many of us suffer a degree of angst over what we could have done, should have done, and what we should do in the future.  Often, this angst is precipitated by the needs, wants, and perceptions of others.

At other times, we experience stress and worry placed upon ourselves when our preconceived notions supersede our past and present decisions, many of which provide us with joy and fulfillment.
View across the bay.

The magic of free will, which a portion of the world is blessed to possess, allows us to make choices. Each choice we make, whether we’re aware of it or not, is driven by something deep within us that even we may not fully understand.

Readers frequently write to us, suggesting what we “should” be doing in any country, sites we “should see,” restaurants where we should be dining.  
Another example of vegetation-covered ruins.

In many cases, these excellent and thoughtful suggestions are taken seriously, and we may pursue our thoughtful reader’s well-intentioned recommendations. Thank you for writing, and please continue to do so. 

But, for us, the reality remains, we do exactly what we want to do, taking the word “should” out of our vocabulary and replacing it with “shall we do this?”  Together we decide. At times, we may not agree, but each of us will make our case for and against and, the stronger case wins.
Cattle in the pasture next to our driveway.
And then, our lives roll out, building memories that will last a lifetime, that based on this website, we’ll always be able to recall from the thousands of posts we’ve done here. We look back almost every day.

The magic of our lives is the opportunity we’ve had to play a role, however, small, in the lives of those who dream of traveling or have traveled. Through our posts, some of our readers may find comfort; share in the joy of adventure; acquire the satisfaction of a curiosity: or merely seek enjoyment in the often mundane meanderings of two world travelers who made a difficult decision to leave everything behind to explore the world.
This brown cow often stands when we drive by.

Each day, we’re building memories, whether profound or straightforward, leaving us with a sense of fulfillment and challenge, more than we ever dreamed possible in this life.  

Thank you, dear readers, for “traveling” with us.                      

Photo from one year ago today, July 13, 2018:
We couldn’t believe our eyes when we spotted this elephant digging a hole to access water in the ground below.  Please take a moment to watch our video at the top of the page. For more photos, please click here.

Switching from red wine to what???…

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A white house on the road to Roundstone with two historic buildings on the grounds.

“Fascinating Fact of the Day About Ireland”  
“Ireland has been used as a location for several famous films including Star Wars, The Princess Bride, Braveheart, and Harry Potter.”

We’re back from Clifden and grocery shopping. Everything has been packed away into the two tiny refrigerators and vegetable drawers. We have to be especially careful not to purchase food that must be frozen.
Ruins of the shore of a bygone era.
The tiny freezer in the small refrigerator in the laundry room barely has room for a thing. Our ice cubes and trays occupy 40% of the total space, the remaining left for what is hopefully enough to get us through one week until we shop again.
 
With over 90 minutes of driving time to head to Clifden and back, the closest supermarket, we don’t care to make the trip more than once a week. We’ve already scoured the village for sightseeing opportunities and have exhausted our options. 
 
Once we were settled here and I was off all pain medications, once again, we put our usual “happy hour” on the agenda. My goal has been to consume no more than 177 ml, equivalent to two 3 oz. Glasses of red wine on the days we imbibe. Its been a relatively easy goal to achieve and maintain.
These dilapidated farm buildings represent a period of strife in Ireland when many left the country due to the potato famine.
We prepare dinner and don’t drink alcohol for the remainder of the evening. We spend one-hour chatting and sipping our chosen adult beverage, and afterward, I switch to Pellegrino Sparkling Springwater (no alcohol) while Tom returns to his usual iced tea. This works for us.  
 
We don’t imbibe so much that it impacts our health, well-being, and quality of sleep. Once we’re on the cruise, with drinks included based on our priority in the Crown & Anchor Society, I will continue this regiment while Tom may have a final drink with or after dinner.
 
Here in Ireland, it’s been difficult for me to find a red wine that I not only like but is also affordable at a price I’m willing to pay. To my taste, the average cost of a moderately good red wine, preferably a cabernet sauvignon or merlot, is at least Euro 12, US $13.50 plus tax.
A pair of Connemara ponies are not only white but also varying colors.
This same quality of wine in South Africa, the home of many great vineyards, was at Euro 2.67, US $3.00. Even the finest imported wines in South Africa were rarely over Euro 8.89, US $10.
 
Several weeks ago, there was a sale on six bottles of wines at the SuperValu market. (There isn’t an actual liquor store within a half-day drive). It was priced at Euro 30, US $33.75 for the half dozen bottles.  
 
I’d seen these same wines from Chile at SuperValu priced at Euro 12, US $13.50 each but hadn’t purchased any. But, for the excellent price and few other affordable options, we bought six bottles of red.  
 
It’s not as if I’m a wine connoisseur. I’m not. I hadn’t had any alcoholic drinks or wine for over 20 years and only started drinking wine a few years ago on cruise ships, finding my taste buds weren’t as picky or refined as they’d been in the 80s.  
Another photo of the village of Roundstone, population 214.
Still, four bottles of the red wines sit on the counter in the laundry room. I can’t get it down, and nor am I going to force myself to drink something I don’t like.  After doing a little research, I decided that I needed to find something more suitable for me while we were here in Ireland.
 
I prefer a lower alcohol beverage since my tolerance is relatively low. I found a couple of low alcohol options online…Ketel One Botanicals and Smirnoff Vodka Infusions, each with 25% less alcohol and infused with flavorful botanicals.
 
SuperValu doesn’t carry the Ketel One brand, but they easily had the Smirnoff brands and flavors. We purchased two of the smaller than usual bottles in two flavors. It is suggested that sparkling water or other clear non-sugary mixers be added with ice. 
Black and white cow.
The low alcohol content appeals to me because no sugar is added, and the carb count is zero. Each bottle was priced at Euro 13.60, US $15.30. Each serving is equivalent to a shot glass, and each bottle should last me for quite some time. Each bottle contains 750 ml, 25 ounces, the same amount in a bottle of wine.  
 
This beverage will last me twice as long as a bottle of wine, and if the taste is good, making the change while here will be worthwhile. Traveling the world doesn’t mean we’ll always be able to get familiar products at prices we’ve become accustomed to. But, it certainly inspires us to try something new and different.
 
Tonight we’ll toast to all of you!  Have a fantastic Friday!
Photo from one year ago today, July 12, 2018:
We laughed so hard when we saw this baby baboon grabbing its mom’s hair to hold on while sitting in this unlikely pose. For more details, please click here.

Cleaning…It’s a beastly thing to do!…

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Beautiful horse…

“Fascinating Fact of the Day About Ireland”

“The potato famine was exacerbated by the actions (and inactions) of the British government at the time, leading some to suggest that the famine was essentially
a form of genocide exacted on the Irish.”

We were spoiled during our 15 months in Africa. Whether we were traveling to Botswana, Zambia, Zimbabwe, or living in Marloth Park, we didn’t have much to do when it came to cleaning.  

Our entire cleaning consisted of Tom’s doing dishes while I washed the countertops and stovetop after preparing a meal. I don’t recall ever making the bed in those 15 months. Of course, during the last three months in Marloth Park, I didn’t do a thing.

We were lucky to have two of the finest and most reliable cleaners in Marloth Park, Zef and Vusi, under the management of our dear friends and property managers, Louise and Danie.  

A boggy area at low tide.

Most weeks, Zef and Vusi worked for seven days and were off only on weekends during a holiday. We still took care of the above cooking-related clean-up when they were off on a Saturday and Sunday, knowing they’d be there on Monday.  

During those days, admittedly, we didn’t bother to make the bed other than to pull up the fluffy duvet and fluff the pillows. If we made a mess or spilled something, of course, we cleaned it up. 

Tom and I are very tidy in our day-to-day lives. We neither leave clothes or bath towels on the floor, papers collecting throughout the house, or glasses and dishes sitting on tabletops.  

We don’t leave dishes in the kitchen sink. They’re either washed or, if available (as it is here), placed into the dishwasher. In Marloth, many renters left their dirty dishes for the cleaners.  

We distracted the white calf along the road to our driveway.

We didn’t leave dishes for them other than after an occasional dinner party when we needed the help.  Here in Connemara, when the lovely cleaner Ann arrives once a week, it’s about changing the bedding, dusting, vacuuming, and washing floors and cleaning the kitchen and bathrooms.

When Ann became ill a few weeks ago and could not clean, we were on our own.  She’d offered to send someone she knew, but we decided to wait until she felt well and could return. As it’s turned out, we’ll have been without her help for a total of three weeks.  

It appears she won’t be returning until July 25th, after which we’ll only have one more week we’ll need her. We leave on August 8th to head to Dublin to spend one night in a hotel before flying to Amsterdam the following day. As of today, that’s four weeks away.

As we approach the small village of Roundstone…

We won’t have her clean on Thursday, our normal cleaning day, since the property owner was responsible for the cleaning last week. We’ve been paying Euro 60, US $68 for the four hours of work each week.

Very seldom does a property owner provide a cleaning service unless the cost is low for the country, and the tradition is that holiday rentals include a cleaning staff, daily or weekly.

While in Belize; Kenya; South Africa; Morocco; Trinity Beach, Australia; Fiji;

Bali; countless hotels and cruises; cleaning staff was included. All the remaining locations required we pay for a cleaner, ranging from a low of Euro 27, US $30 to a high of Euro 60, US $68, here in Ireland.

Subsequently, today, without Ann able to clean, once again, we’re on our own.  This morning for the first time in so long, I can’t remember, I changed the linen on the beds in the master bedroom. 

Roundstone, Ireland.

We’ve slept in separate beds during our time here in Ireland to avoid any possible injury to my healing legs. This has been the only time we’ve slept in separate beds, but since they were right next to one another, it didn’t seem that odd. We wouldn’t have slept in different rooms if there weren’t the two beds in the master bedroom.

Tom had offered to make the beds, but I took on the challenge myself. Certainly, enough time has passed I wouldn’t cause myself any injury in taking on the task.

It was undoubtedly challenging, mainly since I had trouble bending over, especially with the two beds low to the floor. But, I got through it and felt a degree of satisfaction in accomplishing this otherwise simple task.

Today is laundry day which is usually every two or three days. With our limited wardrobes and wearing the same warmer clothes in the chilly weather, we can’t avoid doing laundry frequently.

Ruins are left in place with respect for ancestors and history.

After breakfast of bacon and eggs (my three doctors said I could continue with my low-carb way of eating), I cleaned the entire kitchen and dusted tables in the living room. Soon, Tom will vacuum the whole house while I clean the bathrooms. At that point, well, be good for another week except for daily tidying and cleaning.

Tomorrow, we’ll go sightseeing and grocery shopping. For now, I’ve decided only to cook easy meals; some form of protein, a few cooked vegetables, and a salad. This week I prepared a complicated and time-consuming low-carb chicken casserole requiring standing on my feet for a few hours. I’m not ready for that yet.

Now, I must get back to the laundry and hang the clothes on the indoor clothes-drying rack. As cool as it is, it may take two days for the heavier items to dry.  (There isn’t a dryer or outdoor clothesline here).  By the end of the day, everything in the house will be clean, and we can settle back into our comfortable ordinary lives.

Be well!

Photo from one year ago today, July 11, 2018:
This female kudu has a heart-shaped marking on her neck. When she became a regular, we named her “Cupid.”  For more photos, please click here.

A visit to Roundstone, Ireland…

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As we drove into the small town of Roundstone, with a population of 214, we were impressed by the design of the colorful properties on the main road.

“Fascinating Fact of the Day About Ireland”
“Ireland and the UK share a chequered history. In 1801, Great Britain
annexed the Kingdom of Ireland under the Act of Union; in 1921, the Anglo-Irish
Treaty established the Irish Free State, an independent dominion of the British
crown partitioned from Northern Ireland; and in 1949, the Republic of Ireland
became fully independent from the UK.”

We’ve concluded that I can’t sit in the car for long periods. There’s rarely a location where we can pull over with the narrow winding roads, enabling me to get out and walk. It was easier on an airplane when I could walk up and down the aisles every hour or so.

On days like today, misty and cloudy, when we’re staying in, I get up and walk every 30 minutes rather than remain stuck in a chair for extended periods. The walking adds to my daily goals and, without a doubt, helps me feel much better.

This bay is Roundstone, referred to as Round-stone Haven as early as 1684.

Yesterday, after spending an hour in the car, I could barely walk to and then up the few steps to the little market. And yet, hours later, I felt chipper and walked usually.  

It’s the “nature of the beast.” In only six weeks, healing from four surgical procedures has taken its toll on me, the first of which was five months ago, the last only three months ago.  It could take a year before I’m entirely myself.

An old door as an entrance to a stone storage area serving the above house.

After yesterday’s walking fiasco, we started rethinking the upcoming two-day tour, August 16 and 17, 2019, from the ship to St. Petersburg, Russia. Each night, we’ll sleep on the ship, meeting up with our group of 12 or so for the next’s day’s outing.

After considerable research, we discovered the tour will require a tremendous amount of walking, often up and down steps and steep hills, often over uneven pavement. We’re scheduled to pay the deposit by tomorrow, the balance soon after that for a total cost of Euro 472, US $530 (for two).

Roundstone Harbour, mainly used for fishing.
Visiting Russia won’t require a separate visa if we’re signed up with a certified tour company and spend the night on the ship. Otherwise, we’d have to get a complicated visa which we’d prefer not to do. Here are the rules for entering Russia from this site:
  • “72-hour visa-free for international cruise ship/ferry passengers only if traveling with an organized tour and accompanied at all times by a tour operator.
  • Registration is required after seven business days.
  • American citizens may receive multiple-entry visas valid for three years.”

With these considerations, we contemplated a private tour for just the two of us.  But the cost for one day was more than for the two-day time. There are few accommodations on tours (from what we’d read from other passengers) for any disabilities.

Thus, we decided to go ahead with the two-day tour, sleeping on the ship each night as required, and I’ll do what I can. If I have to miss a few challenging venues, Tom will take photos while I’ll leisurely walk around the area checking out the shops, providing the driver states it’s safe to do so.  

We’ll figure it out. In the interim, I’ll continue to walk thousands of steps per day and climb the steep hill in front of the house, at least five times a week, a little further each day, to build my strength and stamina.

Anyway, back to Roundstone, which we visited yesterday morning, taking today’s photos and many more, which we’ll share over the next few days.
Sailboat cruising in the Roundstone Bay on a lightly windy day.
Here is information on Roundstone from this site:

“Roundstone (Irish: Cloch na Rón, meaning “seal’s rock”) is a village on the west coast of Ireland, in the Connemara region of County Galway. The town of Clifden is nearby to the north. 

The anglicized name is usually considered an error on the part of the British colonial Ordnance Survey, which translated the village name; while Cloch certainly means “stone” or “rock,” Rón means “seal,” not “round.” Still, the names Cloch na Rón and Roundstone may be independent. The bay is referred to as Round-stone Haven as early as 1684 (Roderick O’Flaherty), and the rock after which it is named stands like a marker at the entrance and is strikingly round.

Roundstone is known as a home for creativity and the arts. Some of the most influential figures in Irish Art have been painted there, including Paul Henry, Jack B. Yeats, Gerard Dillon, and Nano Reid. The Roundstone Arts Week celebrates youth and the environment on an annual basis.

Church tower on the way to Roundstone.
The local Summerfest is held in July. Traditional Irish Nights are held weekly throughout July and August and offer music, song, and dance from the Connemara area. In 1998 Sean Gorham of Inishnee, Roundstone, County Galway, was engaged in turf-cutting in Roundstone Bog “when he noticed what appeared to be a series of flat stones laid at regular intervals. Believing them to be the remains of an ancient trackway, Mr. Gorham left the stones undisturbed. Through the good offices of Martin O’Malley, Roundstone, and Michael Gibbons, Clifden, his discovery was brought to the attention of the National Museum of Ireland.”

Gorham’s find was located in the townland of Derrycunlagh. Investigation revealed that earlier turf-cutters had removed part of the trackway, but its two extant stretches determined its route. The trackway appeared to date from the Early Bronze Age, while the field wall may have been earlier.

This handsome boy approached the fence for some attention, which we gladly provided.

In an article of 2002, it was stated that “Thanks are due to the late Sean Gorham, whose keen eye and interest save the trackway from destruction and brought it to scientific attention.”

That’s it for today, folks. We’ll be back again with more photos, more stories, more planning, and more considerations for the future.

Be well.
                 
Photo from one year ago today, July 10, 2018:
A mom waterbuck and her calf.  For more photos, please click here.