Mini holiday has ended…Review of The Sands at Nomad…Cost for our stay…Surprising return to our home in Diani Beach…photos…

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Friday morning at The Sands at Nomad, 8:00 am. Low tide.
Our mini-vacation left us both relaxed as we walked the beach as we celebrated our first full year of travel.
The clean sand on the beach feels wonderful underfoot. It’s no wonder the resort is called The Sands at Nomad.

The past 3 days at The Sands at Nomad have been the perfect venue for celebrating our first year of worldwide travel. This fabulous resort epitomizes the fulfillment of expectations of the most discriminating traveler with its attention to detail, exemplary service, finest of amenities, excellent food, and relaxation-inducing environment.

The eye-catching view from our padded chaise lounges in the ocean front yard of our beach cottage.  It was amazing that no matter how hot and humid the day, sitting in the shade on these lounges continually kept us cool and refreshed. Although we were excited to have air conditioning, we seldom used it, preferring to spend our time outdoors to languish in the ocean views, the wildlife, and lush greenery.

In addition, it’s accommodations, sensitive to energy conservation, never left the guest needing more and if so, any reasonable request would graciously be provided. With one bath towel per person per suite per day, no washcloths, on and off switches for hot water, reminders to turn off the AC and the lights, we never felt short-changed, instead, appreciating this concerted effort of both management and staff.

This “house” kitty was fast asleep at the bar when we ordered our cocktails last night. Although some may be “offended” by a cat on the bar, we found it indicative of the homey atmosphere at The Sands at Nomad.
Many resorts along the beach have a “house” dog as an adjunct to security guards.  The fact that his older dog may no longer be the best watchdog and yet continued to be welcomed to stay, further exemplified our respect for the resort staff.

The mosquito netted bed was comfortable with lush sheets and blankets and soft pillows. The bathroom, although on the smallish side, was adequately equipped with toiletries.  The living area had a comfortable seating area with a TV, coffee table and a well-stocked mini-bar fridge where we were able to keep a fresh bucket of ice, we’d requested be delivered twice a day.

This tree referred to by the locals as an “upside-down” tree is due to its branches appearing to be more roots than branches. The constant care, maintaining the landscaping was a feature we appreciated.


As we were leaving today, we noticed the gardeners removing coconuts from the trees, not only to use in drink-making but to avoid guests being hit on the head. 

This coconut tree was no less than 50 feet tall and here is a resort worker sitting atop the branches, cutting off bunches of coconuts. We’d love to have seen him shimmy up or down the tree but it was check-out time and we’d needed to keep moving.

The décor is befitting the African theme embellished with a Moroccan influence with artwork, statues, and artifacts adding to the warm ambiance, allowing the guest, regardless of the length of stay, to feel at home. 

The monkeys, however pesky they may be, are treated with kindness and reverence by the staff, asking guests to do the same. This young woman came to call yesterday when we were dressing for dinner, once again peering in the window of our beach cottage for a possible fruit plate. As close as I was to the opposite side of the glass, through which I took this photo, she never backed off until finally, we opened the door to step outside.


Another adorable monkey visiting yesterday as we lounged on the veranda. We never tired of taking their photos of the varied expressions on their human-like faces.


This may be an older monkey.  It appears this one has a cataract in its left eye, possibly as a result of injury or old age.  In any case, this monkey appeared comfortable with one “hand” on our clothes drying rack.

Complimentary coffee and tea were offered at any time of day delivered to the suite. A bottled water dispenser with both hot and cold water was provided and the balance monitored daily. Teabags, instant coffee, cream, and sugar were also on hand.

No, I didn’t edit the mouth on the forward camel which appeared to be laughing.

The front ocean veranda appealed to us at all hours of the day and night, especially with the frequent visits by two breeds of monkeys, both large and small, often entertaining us.  The powerful ocean breezes kept us cool and comfortable, out of the hot sun. Two padded chaise lounges under an umbrella were attended to daily with fresh towels in our oceanfront yard. 

This photo, taken from a considerable distance, is rich in the beach culture on the Indian Ocean in Kenya, camels, and a Maaasai worker, side by side on the beach. From afar, it appeared the camel had 2 heads causing us to do a double-take, later to reveal in this photos, that it was these two “attached at the hip” camels. Now, they’re both laughing.


Camels strolling on the beach as we relaxed in our chaise lounges in the shade. The camel owners are constantly on the outlook for willing participants of which we only saw a few. At an average cost for a 20-minute ride at Kenya Shillings $2000 per person, US $23.59, there were few takers. As it turned out in our entire three days, we saw a total of 10 to 12 takers. With  numerous resorts along the beach, this was hard work for both the camels and owners, walking
in the hot sun all day.

The pool area, although clean, beautiful, and well situated had few sunny spots for sun worshippers so we opted to do our short sunning periods on our own chaise lounges each day. 

On the first day, many of the elusive Colobus monkeys created the perfect backdrop of entertainment as we lounged by the pool. After that first day, we never again saw another Colobus monkey, although we looked several times over the remaining days. 

Luckily, we were able to post our many Colobus monkey photos including our favorite below which we’ve posted here today, one more time for those who may have missed it while busy watching the exciting US World Series.

Repeat photo for those who missed it. This Colobus monkey and I made eye contact for some time until finally, he offered me this pose, now one of our favorite monkey photos.

Rivas, the poolside bar, is open 24 hours a day, a unique offering for night owls.  The main dining room opens at 7:30 am with a hearty breakfast buffet, offering an endless array of foods appealing to guests from all over the world.  The dinner menu and buffet provided the utmost in dining options befitting all age groups and tastes. 

We had chosen the B&B option which included our oceanfront cottage and breakfast which especially worked for us with neither of us caring to eat lunch. Dinners were prepared with skill and attention to one’s preferences, which in my case was utmost of importance. I never felt I was imposing or “asking too much” when requesting my special considerations.

With flour laden sugary desserts not an option for my restrictive diet,  the chef didn’t hesitate to prepare this delicious cheese plate.

Staff quickly learned our names making us feel at ease and welcomed regardless of the area we were visiting, especially in the restaurant. The only suggestion we’d offer is that the beer wasn’t cold enough and thus, Tom requested it is freezer-chilled before we arrived for dinner, most evenings around 7:15. Bruno happily complied to ensure this was handled each evening.

The “snake show” on Wednesday evening at 5:30, brought many of the guests together for an entertaining experience for even the most squeamish of attendees. As you’ll see in tomorrow’s post, our final post on our mini holiday celebration, we took plenty of photos.

This morning at low tide as we dined on our “custom made” omelets and multiple offerings at the breakfast buffet which was included in the cost of our cottage.

Complimentary coffee and tea with “crumpets” was served poolside each afternoon from 4:00 to 5:00 pm which we never attended although we’d intended to do so. Instead, we were lazily relishing the cool ocean breezes, the rampant wildlife easily visible on the property, and the relaxing environment. The Sands at Nomad freely exuded its obvious mission to create a flawless and memorable holiday experience. Mission accomplished. 

The cost for oceanfront cottage for three nights with breakfast, tax, and service charge included:

Kenya Shilling $77550, US $914.50 plus extra for three nights dinners plus cocktails and beverages, Kenya Shillings $12330, US $145.40 plus all tips Kenya Shillings $3000, US $35.38 plus taxi fare to and from Kenya Shilling $1300, US $15.30.

Grand total:  Kenya Shilling $94180, US $1110.60

Note:  As for our pleasant surprise upon returning to our Diani Beach home, with one more month as of today until we leave for South Africa, was that Hans and Jeri had arranged to have our house professionally treated for insects. With us gone, it was an opportunity to let the process work and to protect us from the fumes. We couldn’t be more appreciative and thrilled to know we’ll be swatting fewer insects off of us.

Also, when we returned, our temporary dogs, Jessie and Gucci went wild with enthusiasm, barking, and literally chirping when they saw us. Now back a full two hours, they’ve yet to leave our sides. It feels like “home.” But, then again, isn’t that what a temporary home for world travelers such as us,  is supposed to feel like?

Today is the one year anniversary of leaving our old lives behind, to begin anew traveling the world…How are we getting along in this 24/7 lifestyle a year later? …

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Only a mother could love this face!

In many ways, the first year of our lives traveling the world went by quickly. When we review what we’ve experienced in this first year, it’s hard for us to imagine that we managed to see so much. In essence, it’s comparable to being on vacation for 52 weeks, a lifetime of one-week vacations for many.

Any regrets? Overpacking. But, we understand and accept that we had no concept of how hard it would be to travel with so many bags and, how much we’d actually need to have with us. Many warned us. 

This affectionate camel leaned on his owner’s shoulder when I approached.

We had to learn on our own, as with many life lessons, donating and dumping along the way with only one large suitcase, one carry on and one laptop bag remaining for each of us. And yet, it’s still too much with 30 additional pounds to unload before we leave Kenya in a month. We’ll figure it out.

Any other regrets? None. We both know for sure that we picked the right person to travel with! We get along so well; making decisions together, laughing as much as possible, still enjoying romantic evenings and magic moments together, more often than one might imagine. 

I have always wanted to ride a camel but the bad shoulder would leave me holding on one-handed, too risky up that high for an old-timer like me.

Only in a rare instance does Tom get grumpy. I ignore him and his occasional grumpiness goes away in minutes. He says I don’t get grumpy. But, now and then I may “think grumpy,” usually keeping my mouth shut and, it goes away. I suppose grumpiness boils down to this…keep it to yourself and it goes away.

For us, other aspects of getting along are; the willingness to admit to being wrong; apologizing when necessary; complimenting and appreciating each other, and sharing equally in tasks and responsibilities. And, we’ve found that if we don’t like elements of our surroundings, say it once, either fix it or if it can’t be remedied, “shut up.”  Complaining provides no benefit to our lives.

Tom spotted them coming and alerted me to grab the camera.  I ran like crazy to catch up with them to take these photos. The cost for a ride, up for negotiation, was Kenya Shillings $2000 each, US $23.56 for two. Darn, I would have negotiated it down by half.

Most of my whining can be accomplished right here!  I don’t need to get Tom wrapped up in it!  Besides, he reads the posts every day so there’s never a doubt about what’s annoying me, which in most cases, is about biting or poisonous creatures.

So, Happy Halloween to those who engage in Halloween activities!

Little did we know that our relaxing mini-vacation would behold such wonders for us. Little did we know that our three-day stay at a the beachside resort of The Sands at Nomad would catapult us back into “safari mode,” constantly on and the search for yet another treasure, giggling with delight over every find.

We’d imagined considerable time reading, lying by the pool, dining, walking the beach, and lounging in air-conditioned comfort at will. We’ve done little of any one of these. 

Instead, we’ve been on “the hunt” for the next sighting of wildlife with the same enthusiasm and passion we shared while on safari, only weeks ago. Our eyes continually scanning the sea for a glimpse of perhaps a dolphin, a jumping fish,  or a huge fisherman’s catch.

Walking on the beach yesterday afternoon, Tom shot this appearing footless photo of me. Actually, I was wearing those ugly water shoes, grateful they were hidden in the surf.

Responding to every sound we hear, we quietly slither into action seeking its source in the hope of being lucky one more time in order to witness another of Mother Nature’s magnificence. But at this point, halfway through our time, if we don’t have one more opportunity to spot a creature, we’d feel fortunate for our sightings thus far, more than we’d ever imagined for three-days at a resort.

I suppose I should have zoomed in as he did when taking mine. Look! You can seemy shadow as I’m taking the photo. Too busy to edit photos right now!
The pristine beach, the fine clean sand of the Indian Ocean made for a pleasant walk on the beach after 4:00 pm yesterday, as the day cooled.

Yes, we were this same way in our old lives, running wildly to see a moose swim across the lake, a coyote standing in the yard, the baby wood ducks being thrown by the parents from the wood duck house to the ground, or a blue heron struggling to swallow an over-sized fish. We loved it then. We love it now.

Living in a third world country has its hardships. However, the vast majority of its land and resources are untouched with wildlife living free in a natural habitat, not at the hand of man. In Kenya, it’s the local people who continue to work hard to keep their wildlife free and we, as visitors, have been blessed with the opportunity to relish in all that they’ve worked so hard to achieve. Thank you, Kenya!

And, thank you, The Sands at Nomad Resort for honoring the integrity of the land, it’s creatures, it’s people, and the preservation of its resources in the manner in which this exquisite property is maintained.

Finally!…Our own photos of the Colobus Monkey…Taken poolside…And, more photos…

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Finding the Colobus Monkeys beside us at the pool put me on a photo-taking frenzy. No more “borrowed” Colobus Monkey photos for us!  Could this guy have given a more appealing pose?
Note this Colobus’ long white sideburns. 
I felt like a kid in a candy store while taking these Colobus Monkey photos.
Another Colobus with the long swatches of hair.  Not all of them had this particular marking.

When we first arrived at Diani Beach, Kenya on September 3, 2013, within our first several days we’d posted several baboon photos. There were monkeys in the yard, along the highway, and swinging from trees.

After returning from the pool where the umbrellas provided too much shade, Tom did a quick 20 minutes on one of the chaise lounges in our front yard.

On September 8th, a monkey ran through our yard that, most certainly, was a different breed than a baboon, with its distinct black and white hair. Unfortunately, I didn’t have the camera handy to capture this fast-moving monkey. Researching online, we found that most likely, it was a less common Colobus Monkey.

The chaise lounges at our ocean cottage where fresh towels are delivered each day.

With no photo when we posted on September 9, 2013, as you’ll see clicking on this link, I copied a few photos to post, noting in the caption that these were “borrowed” photos and not our own. 

Grass in Kenya is an odd variety of grass, tough underfoot, appearing as crabgrass. With most of the soil imbedded with coral with only a shallow layer of dirt, allowing only this type of grass to grow.

Since our original sighting, we hadn’t seen another Colobus. Nor had we seen any while on safari in the Masai Mara where we saw a few baboons with babies but no other breeds. 

In the late afternoon, while on the veranda this Sykes Monkey came to call.

Having seen and photographed so many baboons since arriving in Kenya, we’ve become used to seeing them, as have the locals, hardly giving them any attention. I suppose it’s comparable to of us in other countries paying little mind to dogs unless, of course, they’re dog lovers.

Stopping for a nibble before getting too close to us.

Shortly after checking in at The Sands at Nomad Resort yesterday morning on a three-day anniversary celebration of our traveling for one year, we knew we were in for a treat when not only Sykes monkeys frequently appeared on our veranda, but we ran into several families of Colobus Monkeys while we lounged by the pool in the afternoon.

Outside the cottages, these troughs are kept filled freshwater and flowers, enabling the guests to rinse their feet when coming in from the beach. This trough also provides fresh drinking water for wildlife. This visiting monkey took a hearty drink before making the official appearance.

Apparently, the proximity of many dense trees surrounding the pool provides a natural habitat for the Colobus.  No more than 5 minutes after we were situated in the padded shaded lounge chairs, Tom said his usual, “You better get the camera ready!” as he pointed in the direction of multiple Colobus Monkeys playfully swinging in the trees. I squealed with delight, putting my hand over my mouth to avoid disturbing them.

Finally, she was ready for a photo, not hesitating to make eye contact.

Although used to seeing humans in this busy resort, they are not willing to allow anyone to get too close including familiar staff members. With strict rules to avoid feeding them due to biting risks and to maintain their natural foraging instincts, they remain wild animals, not domesticated playthings intended to entertain tourists.

Early this morning as we left our cottage for breakfast in the main restaurant.

Keeping this in mind as we’ve learned, I kept my distance, gingerly stealing close enough to take these shots.  They didn’t seem to mind at all but refused to be complacent by giving me more than I deserved of their time. 

Our time here at The Sands at Nomad Resort is heavenly; the service, impeccable; the food, divine; the scenery, breathtaking; and the ocean, constantly changing colors, tides, waves, and winds, our eyes affixed to its mysterious wonder.

A sunny view from our veranda to the sea.

Three days will go quickly, but leaving here will not be filled with “end of vacation dread.” Our mail is handled, our bills are paid, our house is clean. After a 10 minute trip to the produce stand, we’ll be stocked with food for another week, having planned well in advance. 

A morning view of our tucked away ocean cottage.

Our two little temporary dogs, Jessie and Gucci, will be waiting for us and once again in no time, we’ll be settled in,  finding contentment wherever we may be for our last month in Kenya.

Thank you, Colobus Monkey! Now I can go back to my search for the Dung Beetle!

This cat came to visit today as we sat on the veranda of our beach cottage.

We’re on vacation!…Come see…More wildlife photos tomorrow…Lucky on our first day on “vacation” for excellent close ups…

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Within the first half-hour in our cottage, unpacked, dressed in our swimsuits, this guy stopped by for a visit outside the window of our indoor living room.
Most likely she/he, a possible Sykes Monkey knows there is a welcome fruit plate given to new guests.  Giving food to the monkeys is a bad idea, reducing their interest in foraging for their own food, which is plentiful here. We had no trouble resisting the temptation.

Over the past several weeks, we’ve visited many of the resorts in Diani Beach hoping to find the perfect spot for our three-day one year anniversary of leaving our old life behind to embark on a new life traveling the world. 

Tom spotted this monkey outside the window.  I couldn’t grab the camera fast enough. Surprisingly, he didn’t move when he saw me.  Apparently, they have become used to humans at the resorts.
Look at her/him looking for our fruit plate!

Carrying the love and support of those we left behind with us, we’ve found this experience to be a bounty of learning experiences, life-changing lessons, all enriched with endless surprises.

When we arrived at The Sands at Nomad Resort, we were welcomed with flower leis and orange mango juice. (I politely declined, but Tom enjoyed his).

This morning, after moving into a private beach cottage on the beach of the Indian Ocean at The Sands at Nomad, we knew we’d selected the resort that most fulfills our desires for this special celebration.

This pool bar is open 24-hours a day for the middle of the night drinkers.
The sun so close to the equator is scorching. We spent 2 hours by the pool with only 20 minutes in the sun. The remainder of the time it was comfortable in the padded lounge chairs under the shade of a giant umbrella.

We were heartily welcomed to out beach hut.
The window to our view of the ocean.  We’ll take a better shot soon with less of a glare.
The bathroom is well-equipped with plenty of towels, toiletries, robes, and a bidet, of course.
Our new living area with comfortable furniture and a TV!
Side view window of the living area.

Our plans for our three-night stay is simple; relax, walk the beach, lounge at the pool where there are many shaded areas, take scenery, food, and wildlife photos, stay cool in AC from time to time, dine in the fabulous outdoor restaurants, meet new people, and celebrate the first year of our “stepping outside the box” to explore countries we’d never dreamed possible.

This is the beach in front of our cottage.
The varying shades of blue of the ocean and the sky make a colorful contrast. This photo was taken as the tide was going out.
Tom, catching a few rays in the scorching sun. Not too much though. We’ve seldom lounged in the sun these past 5 months for our former “usual one hour” since arriving in Italy on June 16th due to the bees and flies. In Kenya, the only sunny areas are directly on the grass where the likelihood of a bee sting is greater. (Both of us are seriously allergic to hornets, certain bees and, wasps. A bite can be life-threatening which surely attributes to my skittishness of being around biting insects. More than once I’ve been rushed to an emergency room as a result of a sting. Tom’s only been stung once, but also had to go to a hospital for treatment. Thus, our excessive caution).
Every so often, we look at one another and say, “Can you believe we are in Kenya?’ We shake our heads and smile, never taking our current location for granted.
Lounge, with WiFi and a reading area. The WiFi is actually high-speed at no charge which we found to be the best connection we’ve had in Kenya thus far. Thank you, The Sands at Nomad.

First time posted safari photos… Dinner on the town…Plus we’re going on “vacation” in three days… Details coming…

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This mom had a baby on her opposite side.  We waited, hoping the baby would appear. The mom, seemed aware of us, never allowed the baby to make an appearance.
Although this croc looks small in this photo, Anderson our guide, speculated he was no less than 15 feet long. Although less than 20 feet from us, we cautiously stood on a steep embankment, impossible for him to climb with his size and girth.
Another hippo is swimming in the river while this one was sniffing for breakfast.
Anderson chuckled when we zoomed in to get this shot of an impala during our first few minutes in the Land Cruiser after he’d picked us up at the airport.  He said we’d see so many of these and other animals in the antelope family, we’d soon lose interest in taking their photos.  How right he was, although these graceful animals are enchanting to watch.
Young lions lounging under a tree on a beautiful morning.


Mom keeping out a watchful eye while her brood lounges. From time to time, she nodded off, quickly startling herself awake.
Grunt.  Life is hard for a “Retired General.” This one may have been newly banished as he’d yet to meet up with other such males. He looked forlorn and miserable. 
We took at least 10 shots of this exquisite male lion looking satisfied and sleepy with the remains of his zebra meal behind him. Anderson said that most likely a female killed it and he took it from her. The male’s MO is to watch females hunt in order to steal their catch, although when desperate, they’ll hunt for their own meals.

When shooting multiple shots of one scene, many shots may look similar or at times almost identical. Luckily, I have access to a link where I can review all of the photos I’ve already posted to ensure I don’t post lots of duplicates since each photo has its own unique number. Although on occasion, as mentioned in the past, I may make an error or simply want to repost a shot.

While on safari, we kept took over 600 photos, keeping approximately 500. We posted many of those 500 over a 13 day period at about 20 per day, leaving us almost half of them that our reader hasn’t seen, mainly due to the appearance of many being duplicates. From time to time, we’ll post a few of these as we’ve done today.
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Dinner on the town…

The elegant lobby at the Diani Reef Resort and Spa.
The elegant offerings at Diani Reef Resort and Spa were breathtaking.
A coy pond and glass floor in the reception area were only a few of the highlights at the
Diani Reef Resort and Spa.
Our intent had been to arrive in daylight for the benefit of better photos.  Perhaps, we’ll return during the day to partake in the several additional restaurants, the offered pool lounging, and the free WiFi.
Dining out three times a week has made a world of difference to us. Yes, it’s a pain to getting ready to go out each time;  the heat, the repellent, plus trying to figure out what to wear. But, we’ve found that once we’re on our way in the taxi, we’re always happy to be on our way. 
Tom standing in front of the popular local Baobab trees located in the lobby area of the resort. That’s my purse, not his, although on occasion he does carry it for me.

In our old lives, we seldom dined out. Many of our friends lived in our neighborhood making staying in dining with them easy and fulfilling. Plus, we’d had our fill of nearby restaurants, preferring to dine at home.

Although this appears to be an exterior photo, it was actually taken from inside the massive courtyard in the lobby area.

Now, with a multitude of amazing resorts with phenomenal restaurants within a 20 minutes drive costing no more than KES $1500, US $17.69 for the round trip drive including tips, dining out certainly has its appeal.

As we approached the bar area where we had drinks and excellent service. 

With many highly rated standalone restaurants nearby, we’ve been tempted to try them. The problem has been my restrictive diet. The standalone restaurants mainly have “cooks” managing the preparation of the meals. But the fancier resorts have trained “chefs” who totally “get it” when I say: no starch, no gluten, no grain, no sugar. 

A view down the hall as we sat on the bar stools. There is one fabulous seating area after another offering privacy or socialization with easy access to MiFi.  Although appearing empty,  the huge property had many guests enjoying the facility’s wide array of areas.

Still, with most of the professional “chefs,” I must explain the fact of “no rice, no corn, no corn thickeners, no potatoes, no potato thickeners” which is often difficult for them to understand when most gluten-free diets do include corn, potatoes, beans, rice, and gluten-free grains, none of which I am able to consume due to the high carb content.

At 7:30, the hostess arrived at the bar to alert us that our dinner reservation was ready, carrying our drinks on a tray as she escorted to Sake, the Japanese restaurant

Some may say, “Gee, take a break. Enjoy a few bites here and there.” I appreciate this mentality. But, 26 months ago, I was a near invalid in constant debilitating pain. At that time, I would never have considered traveling the world, let alone going on a day’s outing.

This was Tom’s dinner, tempura pork loin with a Japanese seasoned side salad.

Now pain-free after over two years of eating this way, I can sit in a bumpy safari vehicle for eight hours a day with nary a moment’s thought of pain, or walk many miles for hours on the uneven pavement to see Petra in Jordan, walking up and down steep cobblestone walkways in Mikonos, Greece and on and on. 

The rice, miso soup, and sauce was included in Tom’s meal. We shared a delicious appetizer before dinner but were so hungry we forgot to take a photo before devouring it!

Need I say more?  No type of food is worth the pain returning and never will be. Thus, the fancier restaurants, although more costly, are worth it to us. 

Most likely, the restaurant/resort we visited on Thursday night was the most expensive thus far. The total for dinner, drinks, and tips at Diani Reef Resort and Spa at Sake Restaurant, was KES $7566.70, US $89.23 which included some cocktails for Tom at KES $763.20, US $9.00 each. As is the case in most of the resorts, the cost of cocktails is high with soda and beer less so. 

My dinner.  Yea, I know that my ongoing calamari meals look repetitious but there’s nowhere in the world we’ve visited thus far that offer this un-battered tender calamari.  I can’t seem to get enough!  It’s caught locally served fresh the same day.  How can I resist?  I’d rather have it than lobster although, the fresh locally caught lobster is firm and flavorful from the Indian Ocean.

Tom worked for 42 years to earn this retirement. He can have all the cocktails he wants, although overall, he’s a lightweight drinker. I don’t drink any alcohol. Instead, I order bubbly water with lemon or lime.

The moment we entered the gorgeous resort, we anticipated an enjoyable evening and we were never disappointed for a moment. From the welcome reception we received upon entering, to being greeted and chatting with Susan, the assistant GM, and Mohammad, the GM when departing, we were enthralled with the quality of service.
 Our table after our entrees were served created an eye-catching presentation. I requested a sauce made without gluten or sugar and this sugary sauce was removed.

The ambiance was over the top, one of the most beautiful resorts we’ve yet to see.  The design and the décor were developed and embellished to the utmost of creativity, with a theme of a warm elegance unsurpassed in the resort industry. 

After an exquisite dinner in the Japanese restaurant Sake, Susan and Mohammad invited us to return for a full day’s enjoyment at their pool where they’ll reserve a padded lounge chair for us. We’ll be able to use their free WiFi and dine in another of their several restaurants at our leisure. We look forward to taking them up on their offer soon. 

Yes, folks, we’re going on another three-night “vacation” starting on Tuesday, October 29th, returning on Friday, November 1st. Some might call it a “vacation within a vacation” but for us, it is the perfect way to celebrate on October 31st, the anniversary of our first full year of travel after leaving Minnesota on Halloween, October 31, 2012.

Tomorrow, we’ll share our plans and of course, next week amid our “vacation” we’ll we writing and posting stories as they occur. 

At last…The elusive Bush Baby within feet of us…Cigars and seafood platters…

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A Bush Baby eating a banana next to us last night as we dined outdoors at the Leopard Beach Resort. A small platform was set up for the Bush Babies loaded with bananas to encourage them to visit the guests while dining.
Although extremely shy, Bush Babies aren’t tame and are very cautious around scary-looking humans. Their bulgy eyes cause the flash to reflect off their eyeballs presenting this eerie look. Little did we know, when we selected our table close to the trees that we’d be as close as we could get to their natural habitat.
They use their “little hands” to firmly grasp their food.  They leap from tree to tree so quickly that we were unable to get a shot in flight or on a tree.  Once they hit the tree trunk, they hide, blending in with their surroundings. Unbelievably, we saw one of them leap backward from this stance to a tree, never once looking behind them. Oh, Mother Nature, thank you!

Mother Nature has been kind to us. We saw The Big Five in the first 10 hours on safari. We’ve seen monkeys and baboons in our yard.  We’ve heard the chorus of a thousand frogs singing in the night. We’ve been an eyewitness to many of the scary and not so scary insects in Kenya. 

We didn’t move. Holding the camera in my hand, with my elbows on the table, using no zoom, we got this shot. For a moment, I wondered if she/he would jump on the table and steal my lobster tail.

We’ve watched and heard the mating calls of dozens of birds we’d never seen or heard before each day as we live in our outdoor living room now that spring is in full bloom in this part of the world.

I could have reached out and touched this Bush Baby but we both sat motionless, allowing her/him to check out the food on our plates. With no bananas in sight, it quickly moved on.  We felt fortunate to take the shots we’ve shown here. They are fast!

But, two creatures have eluded us; the curious dung beetle that we missed while on safari, the search motivated by our safari mate David, and in our own area, the elusive Bush Baby, a shy, nocturnal animal that expertly leaps from tree to tree during the night, eliciting sounds unfamiliar to most human ears.

Ordering the seafood platter for two resulted in a fabulous meal we both enjoyed, each receiving our own huge platter.

Last night, as our “safari luck” will have it, while leisurely dining at the Leopard Beach Resort in Diana Beach, one of our wishes was fulfilled, the Bush Baby made an enthusiastic appearance; snap, snap, snap. Thank goodness I always take my camera wherever we may go!

Tom’s platter included white rice.  He ate everything on his plate, except he moved the calamari, cauliflower, and broccoli to my plate. 

Long ago, Tom and I decided we would not write negative reviews of local restaurants and resorts if they didn’t meet our expectations. There are other sites and other reviewers who may choose to do so. We both agreed that a facility can have an “off” day or night and it would be unkind to tarnish their reputation over one of those days.

The staff at the Leopard Beach Resort and Spa must have had one of those “off” evenings last night as we toured the facility, arriving at 6:00 pm, finally leaving at 10:00 pm,, after dinner and a few unintended mishaps.  We’ll give them the benefit of the doubt.  Of course, the appearance of the Bush Babies made the dinner memorable in itself along with the excellent seafood dinner.

While at the bar, we noticed this cigar menu. Tom had hoped to order a Cuban cigar to enjoy in our outdoor living room, but for whatever reason, they were out. Not a cigar aficionado, he had no clue as to an alternative, so he passed.  (KES $1000 = US $11.76).

Their restaurant, The Chui Grill was excellent, the service impeccable, as our devoted waiter who ran circles around us to ensure a positive experience, which in fact, we had while dining, although the meal was expensive compared to the other resorts, KES $6389.30, US $75.13. 

With our new plan to dine out 3 times a week and, after careful calculations, this morning, of what we’ve spent on dining out thus far, as compared to our dining out budget, at this amount per time, we’ll remain within our projections. In reviewing the calendar, we’ll dine out 17 more times until it’s time to move on.

The grounds at Leopard Beach Resort were expansive, meticulously maintained, and well-staffed.

I seriously doubt we’ll spend this much since most of our dinners have averaged KES $4618.20, US $54.30, including beverages, taxes, and tips.  Taxi fare goes into the taxi budget of KES $85050, US $1000 which, at this point, we’ve spent under KES $25515, US $300. 

Based on the projected number of times we’ll use a taxi to grocery shop and dine out, we’ll be well under the budget, using the balance for the monthly tips for Hesborn, our houseman, and Jeremiah, our night guard. (There are day guards at the gate as well, day and night).

Once we add the tally of our final costs for the 3 months in Kenya we will share these with you, down to the penny.  From how it’s looking now, over halfway through, we’re rather pleased.

Today, after literally wiping out every morsel of food in our tiny fridge and cupboards, we’re heading out to grocery shop at 11:00 am with our usual driver, Alfred. 

With our new plan to eat out 3 times a week, we’ll grocery shop every 2 weeks as opposed to once a week purchasing only enough food to last for 8 days and water and snacks (mostly cheese and nuts) to last the full 2 weeks.

Gee…its fun calculating this stuff! I’m like a “pig in the mud” with an Excel spreadsheet!  Thank goodness.  Tom is not.

Note:  As for the dung beetle, we won’t see one in Kenya.  Hopefully, we’ll find one in South Africa while on safari in Kruger Park.  I assure you, within hours of our discovery, we’ll be posting our photos here.

Flight from Maasai Mara to Diani Beach…Also, Tom’s photos…New safari photos…Please scroll to the end…

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As our final safari came to an end, a sudden burst of rain surprised us on our return drive to camp. During the entire time we’d been in the Masai Mara, we’d seen only beautiful billowy clouds.  After raining for less than 10 minutes, this rainbow appeared, quickly disappearing. Tom captured this photo. It was goodbye for us, a final indication of a perfect adventure that we’ll carry in our hearts forever.

Moments before the rain, Tom captured the clouds rolling in at precisely the right moment. This was shot with an extra camera we carry with us, a US $100 Samsung.  Wow, Tom!

Flying in yet a smaller plane on the return flight to Diani Beach, we find ourselves seated behind Edwin, our sole pilot. With no wall or divider between us and Edwin, this single-engine 12 seater plane feels like the “real deal.” At this point, a 4 or 5 seater won’t be much different.
 
I won’t go as far as saying that I’ve conquered my fear of flying in small aircraft but at least this time my heart isn’t racing, my mouth isn’t dry and I’m not watching the clock agonizing over how much longer until we’d land.
 
Instead, I’m writing with exuberant anticipation of sharing more details in writing of these past exhilarating days, the writing in itself a divine blessing in its ability to divert my attention away from the 2-hour flight.
 

Today at 1:00 pm, Anderson drove us to the tiny landing strip from Olonana making a stop along the way to pick up our pilot Edwin who was having lunch at a nearby lodge.  Chatting with Edwin on the remainder of the 20-minute drive provided me with a modicum of comfort. Why?  Was it due to the fact he was breathing, coherent with his wits about him? Perhaps.

After 15 minutes in the air, we landed at another landing strip to pick up seven more passengers. As their multiple bags per person were being loaded into the equally tiny luggage compartment, I began to wonder not only about the weight of those bags but also of the people carrying them. Only I would think of this.

The plane leaned to and fro as they positioned themselves on board. Tom moved up to sit next to me. A friendly young man sat across from us, cheerily making conversation. All we ever heard before the engine started up again was, “We never got to see The Big Five.” Tom and I smiled at each other, knowing our experience may have far surpassed that of others without Anderson at the wheel.

Once we were airborne again, fast and furiously I started making notes on the notepad app on my smartphone to aid my memory in the multitude of amazing experienced we’d have in a short 3 days. Three days we’ll never forget.  Three days ingrained into the essence of who we really are, who we’ve really become, somehow to be changed forever.

Not to sound too romantic or melodramatic, visiting Africa, with all of its hardships, has made me feel as if I’ve come “home.” I doubt that I’ll ever understand the “why” of this profound awakening. But, the “why” doesn’t matter.

This bewildering sensation encompasses me, leaving my knees weak and my heart filled with an indescribable familiarity that I’ve chosen not to question.

Tom although less poetic than I, in these past days has exuded a peaceful resonance in his voice and a loftiness in his step, that I have witnessed on occasion. And that smile on our faces, not intended for a photo op, seems to have a mind of its own, making our faces hurt after a long day.  (And today, October 18, 2013, I can’t stop smiling as I transpose that which  I wrote on the plane now, a full 10 days ago).

All I know is that bouncing around in an open-sided Land Cruiser over the bumpiest roads I’ve ever traveled, driving through creeks and riverbed for almost 8 hours a day, occasionally stopping to “check the tire pressure,” fearless in the tall grass, I never questioned for one moment why we were doing this. For this short period in time, I belonged to the bush, to the wild, and to nature more than I’d ever felt before.

As my fear continued to diminish over the occasionally turbulent return flight, I realized that if God forbid something unforeseen occurred, I’ve lived a full life at 65 years old. I’ve loved, I’ve been loved, I’ve failed and I’ve succeeded but most of all, I’ve learned more about myself in this past year of travel than I’d ever learned before.

Life is fragile but we are strong…and with my strong and brave partner at my side, I’ve pushed myself to reach for my dream, some of which I only recently allowed myself to realize.

To realize a lifelong dream of Africa, in the bush, on safari, enmeshed in its culture and its people;  I feel free, I feel grateful, I feel fulfilled.

Thank you, Maasai Mara.  hank you to the most amazing guide on the planet, Anderson. Thank you Camp Olonana.  Thank you, Kenya. And, thank you, Africa.”

Most of all, thank you to my husband, for not only “stepping outside the box” but “leaping outside the box,” and for your courage, love, and compassion to make this dream come true.

The cloud darkening the sky moments before the rain fell.


Also, thank you, Tom, for killing that disgusting poisonous thing I spotted on the wall in the bathroom at 6:00 am this morning with nary a complaint and for eating tuna out of the can mixed with mayo, a few slices of cheese, and a sliced tomato (which you hate) for dinner last night when our propane fuel ran out when we were only halfway through cooking a pork roast, again without complaint. 

Tom was excited to see this plane and get a shot. It’s an 80-year-old, DC3 with obviously, new engines and props, commonly used in World War II. I said, “Thank goodness we don’t have to fly on this oldster.”

And thank you for helping me with literally everything including putting on my shirt when my bad shoulder has been painful since we returned, after taking over 600 photos on safari. And, for lighting that problematic green coil thing 10 times a night to keep the mosquitoes from biting me as we spend each evening in our outdoor living room. Thank you, my husband, my partner, and my friend.   

 Arriving at the landing strip, this tiny plane was the only one in sight.  Then I knew this was Edwin’s plane and we’d be flying in it. 
Edwin prepared for takeoff while I was sitting behind the empty co-pilot’s seat. For the first leg of the flight, it was just Tom and me on the plane with Edwin. Tom sat behind me so he too could look out the window.
Approaching the landing strip to pick up seven more passengers.
 Control panel of the single-engine plane.
 A breathtaking view from the plane.
 This was a body of water.
 As we neared the body of water.
 As we flew over Diani Beach the smoke from burning clouds the view. In Kenya, there’s no ban on burning often resulting in noxious fumes filling the air.

More safaris photos below…

A termite hill we saw on the way to Tanzania, possibly 4 or 5 feet tall.
More of the Retired Generals hanging out together.
These cheetah shots were taken from afar after a group of 3 had a successful kill.  Notice the bloody face.

Hard to see from the far distance, these 3 cheetahs are devouring their kill which we witnessed from a distance, occurring so quickly, we couldn’t get a shot.

 On our way back to camp on the last night, for the first time, we spotted these mongooses which are known snake killers.
The King of Jungle never disappointed, continually offering an opportunity for close-ups and the opportunity to observe his/hee playful antics and instinctual behaviors. Thank you, lions.
 Thank you, dear readers, for sharing this journey with us.

Romantic Lion Couple Mating Ritual…MAY NOT BE SUITABLE FOR YOUNG CHILDREN…

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It was a perfect morning. The Romantic Lion Couple appeared casual and at ease under the shade of this tree. But, the air was filled with passionate tension.
Billows of fluffy clouds scattered the ocean blue sky. The air was fresh and cool washing a chill over us as we wriggled our butts in the vehicle into in our usual blanket-covered seats with cushy down pillows for back support. 
Dozing off and on, they both were oblivious to us such a short distance away.
Bundled in our parkas, hats on our heads, we were all raring to go. The bush breakfast behind us, our bellies full, “the tire pressure was checked” and a slight buzz of caffeine permeated our eager brains, anxious for another treasure in the bush. 
The female, occasionally opened an eye, checking out his next move.
It didn’t take Anderson long to fulfill our hopes of more wonders, as he suddenly stopped the Land Cruiser with a slight jolt, quickly grabbing his powerful binoculars. Quiet and intense, he searched the horizon, seconds later saying, “We’re on the move!” 
 Although he appeared relaxed, he was well aware of the task at hand, politely awaiting the perfect opportunity.
Minutes later parked 25 feet from this tree, we practically held our breath to remain quiet, keeping our hands and cameras inside the Land Cruiser, willing to wait however long it took for the events to unfold. 
“She likes me.  She really likes me!”  He looked at us as if seeking approval to move along.
There were two or three other safari vehicles for Anderson to maneuver around to get as close as possible. His ability to graciously position us to the best vantage point always pleased us. Once again, we expressed our gratitude to him, this time in whispered tones.
“I think it’s time to get this show on the road!”
Determined to eventually continue on to Tanzania (me, the most excited about that prospect), seeing these two lions gave me a sense that if we would choose to watch this all day, I’d willingly forego Tanzania. 
To be witness to the beauty of procreation in the wild with the majestic lions was not to be missed. Nothing could drag us away.
 Actively engaged in mating before our eyes.
One might assume that to observe this fact of life in the flesh was based on our own voyeurism. Not the case. We watched this event with the same enthusiasm and interest we’d felt watching the hunt, the lion in the tree, the lion family living in the culvert, the elusive rhinos, and more.
I must admit, we all made a few rather hilarious comments in whispered tones as the activities unfolded, none of which will be shared here. We are human after all. David was videotaping while Tom particularly launched a few hilarious zingers which now were on David’s video to later be removed (or not). 
Afterward, he moved back to the tree in his usual spot, perhaps contemplating his next move.

We all had to cover our mouths with our hands to muffle our laughter. Anderson laughed along with us, although most assuredly, he’d heard such comments in the past.

Settling in for what could prove to be a long wait, once again we all became quiet and entranced in the beauty of nature, our environment, the gift of the opportunity to see such life, and death, around us over these few days. 
 He went back for another round while she quietly cooperated.  Anderson explained this process could go on for hours. We’d anticipated he might bite her, growl, or be aggressive in some manner. But, he quietly and gently pursued her, an exquisite sight to behold. We decided to move along to leave to Romantic Lion couple with privacy and for us to continue with our plans to drive to the border of Kenya and Tanzania.
We were pleasantly surprised when The Romantic Lion Couple wasted no time in giving us exactly what we’d hoped to see, as evidenced in these photos, Mother Nature at her finest, creating life.  
Their tree on the left, we drove away, with those same smiles on our faces knowing that for some magical reason, we had a safari that couldn’t have been more perfect, more fulfilling, more life-changing than the 21 1/2 hours we spent with Anderson in that sturdy Land Cruiser, bouncing too high heaven, feeling lucky, so lucky!
After 40 minutes, we were all ready to move on. Tanzania here we come, flies and all (story and photos shown in yesterday’s post on October 14, 2013).
And we’re still not done…

Tanzania…To see the tail end of the Great Migration…

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It was difficult to fathom the massive size of this older male elephant we encountered as we began the drive to Tanzania
Later, we came across this mom and baby, the smallest of the baby elephants we’d seen in any of the prior days.
The drive to Tanzania offered stunning scenery with low lying clouds.
Hanging partway out the window of the sturdy Toyota Land Cruiser, I took this shot as Anderson made our way over terrain definitely not suited for road vehicles.
Gradually, the scenery began to change to include the migrating wildebeest, many of whom had yet to make the journey back to the Serengeti.  Anderson explained they will continue on, instinctively finding their way to the large herds of millions.
Unable to get as close as we’d like due to the rough terrain we did our best to zoom to get the following photos on the remaining wildebeests.


Vultures love the Great Migration for the carcasses more readily available with the massive numbers of wildebeests falling prey to illness, attack, or injury in their lengthy migratory journey.
The closer we were to the Kenya/Tanzania border, everything changed; the temperature became hotter, more humid with fewer breezes, the flies clustered around us, the dust blew in our faces and eyes and the landscape became more sparse and unfriendly.
The wildebeest grazed for the few remaining green patches of vegetation, soon to realize that they must move on to meet up with their herds.
Increasing in numbers as we approached the border.
Although the sight of the two-plus million wildebeest would have been unbelievable, I began to wonder if doing so was as important to me as it had been in the past. It may sound as if its a rationalization for not having been able to see it but, the flies were a huge deterrent for both of us. They were flying into our noses, mouths, and ears.  It was awful.
Finally, we were able to stand at the marker that separates Kenya from Tanzania, a pose worthy opportunity for all of us.
Wildebeests, not quite as homely as warthogs held less appeal for us.  Warthogs are playful and funny.  Wildebeests, not so much.

Several years ago, as Tom and I were seated on the comfy bar stools at the  island in our kitchen in Minnesota, we watched a National geographic episode with a stunning video of the Great Migration. 

Yeah, I know I looked goofy with my Bugs Away hat, a scarf tied on my face. Honestly, I didn’t care. If I’d had a paper bag on hand, I’d have worn that. We did everything we could to keep the flies out of our noses, mouths, and ears.

As we watched the two-plus million wildebeest and other migratory animals as they traveled from the Serengeti in Tanzania, crossing the winding Mara River several times, to end for the lush vegetation during the rainy season in the Masai Mara in Kenya, it proved to be a profound experience for me with my lifelong dreams of Africa.

(To see the map of Diani Beach to the Masai Mara Kenya and Tanzania, please click here).

As the show ended, I looked in Tom’s eyes and said, “I must see this in my lifetime.”   He smiled and said, “Yeah sure, Sweetie.”

Tom, Anderson, and me, posing at the Kenya/Tanzania border marker, still smiling but not objecting when it was time to head back to the Masai Mara.

At this point, we had yet to conceive of the idea of traveling the world, not even as a distant thought, never as words spoken to one another. In January 2012, as Tom’s retirement was fast approaching in 11 months, in a single day, in a single conversation, we made the decision. 

Our outstanding guide and new friend, Anderson. His exuded pure joy at our delight and enthusiasm to see what he sees every day, never taking it for granted, which surprised us. 

The next day, the wheels were in motion to begin to contemplate the process of liquidating everything we owned: house, cars, furnishings, clothing, winter coats, stuff, stuff, and more stuff, a lifetime of stuff.

The small herds of wildebeest continued as we worked our back on yet another long rough road back to the Masai Mara.

Night after night when Tom returned home, we sorted out the details as to how this would all transpire. During the daylight hours, I set the plan in motion. To say I worked on my computer for 8 to 10 hours a day was an understatement; searching, researching, finding, booking, committing. Relentlessly. 

No more than a few minutes into the return drive, we spotted another mom and baby elephant, tails swishing batting off the flies. They, too, must feel the effects of the dung of millions of animals.

There were two things we knew for sure:
1.  Tom wanted to sail by ship through the Panama Canal: Done on January 13, 2013.
2.  I wanted to see the Great Migration: Not completely done. But, completely satisfied for now having been on safari this past week and for having the opportunity to see the tail end of the Great Migration when Anderson drove the six of us to the border of Tanzania to witness the stragglers.

Although we were quite a distance from them, we enjoyed this photo of mom and bay making their way up a steep incline.

Cindy and David, a lovely couple, safari mates, had just returned from the full experience. We’d missed it by a week or more. Anxious to hear their reaction, I pumped them for details. Was I jealous? Not at all.   was excited to glean whatever tidbits they’d share of their glorious experience. And they did.

After about an hour into the return drive, we saw the last of the wildebeest stragglers, facing a long walk home to the Serengeti in Tanzania. (80% of the Serengeti is in Tanzania with the remaining 20% in Kenya).

Oddly, they were not disappointed to see a portion of it again when Anderson promised to take us to see the tail end of the Migration on the third day of our safari. 

As the landscape became less cluttered and the flies no longer nipped at us, we were happy to be returning to the Masai Mara.

We’d already found the rhinos Cindy and David longed to see earlier that morning, that we had already seen and photographed the previous day when they weren’t with us. Once they had their photos, having also completed their Big 5, they gladly joined us, a feeling we well understood and appreciated.

And then, there were elephants lumbering across the road only feet from our vehicle.

The border of Kenya and Tanzania was an extraordinarily rough hour and a half drive from our location at the time in the Masai Mara.  No words can describe how rough.  The dirt and rock trail was a far cry from a road.  As the crow flies it may have been a half-hour drive. Anderson masterfully maneuvered the Land Cruiser through rock creek beds, water-filled creeks, up steep inclines, and down treacherous rocky hills.

In my old life, you couldn’t have paid me to ride along on such a road. Here I was, that sh_ _ eating grin on my face, bouncing along with the rest of us, occasionally holding Tom’s hand out of pure delight, with the unfathomable knowledge that we were on our way to another country, albeit only the border, having the times of our lives. Besides, we had the dangerous road in Belize and the more frightening road in Tuscany behind us.  We were now seasoned “road warriors.”

The closer we got to Tanzania, the flies were unbelievable. Imagine the dung of over two-plus million animals as they made their way across the same terrain we were traveling. The flies. OMG! 

The “Retired Generals” lined up to welcome us back to the Masai Mara.

As they attempted to fly into our mouths, our eyes, our nostrils, our ears, I tied my BugsAway hat’s hanging fabric around my face, hoping to offer some protection. For whatever reasons mosquitoes love me, flies love me more. Remember the flies in Tuscany? This was 1000 times worse! I wrapped my hands into the parka I’d worn that morning leaving no exposed skin, except for what remained of my face which you can see in the included photos.

Suddenly, something hit me.  Ah, maybe it was OK we didn’t see the Great Migration in its entirety. With the mind-blowing safari experience these past days, my desire to be in the bush was richly fulfilled, although not ended. Someday, we’ll go back. 

In the end, the flies may deter us from seeing the Great Migration after all.  I feel no disappointment or loss.  Seeing the remaining wildebeest as we neared Tanzania was enriching. Leaving Tanzania to return to the fly-free Maasai Mara was equally enriching. GET ME OUT OF HERE! I didn’t say it, not wanting to be a wimp, but I sure thought it.

The Masai gathered up their cows to return them to the security of the village, close to our camp, away from the risk attack.

By the time we headed back on an alternative equally rough dirt and rock road it was already 2:00 in the afternoon when we pulled into Camp Olonana. Having had breakfast the second day in the bush, I was hardly hungry for lunch, knowing we’d be having dinner after our later game drive, which we pushed to 4:30 pm instead of the usual 4:00 pm. After being in the vehicle for 7 1/2 hours, we all welcomed a little break. 

We were covered with dust and dirt.  We didn’t care.  There was no sense in cleaning up to go out on safari again in a few hours. By the time we returned from the 4:30 drive at 7:00 pm, we were exhausted and hungry, ready for dinner. 

The giraffes walked along the hillside at our camp as we wearily sauntered to the restaurant at Camp Olonana for late lunch, cold beverages, and time to regroup for the upcoming afternoon drive.

We made a quick stop at our tent to pick up our laptops to post photos and to brush our teeth to get the dirt and dust out of our mouths. For either of us not to shower and change to have dinner in a restaurant was beyond us. Somehow, we didn’t care.

Another fine safari day ended.  The next day, we’d return to Diani Beach on yet a tinier plane at 1:30 pm, after our visit to the Masai Village for our tour with Chief Richard.  We’ll share that story in a few days with many photos and surprising facts about these interesting tribespeople, living a sparse and primitive life, far removed from our own reality, to become deeply entrenched in our hearts.

But, Tom and I have decided on one extra post we’ll be presenting tomorrow that we’d intended to include with today’s post. However, after careful consideration for not only our young grandchildren and others who are enjoying looking at the animal photos, we’ve decided to present the “Romantic Lion Couple Mating Ritual.” (How did we get so lucky to observe this event?) with a warning that there are graphic mating photos to be posted tomorrow, October 15th. We’re placing a reminder in the heading should you decide to observe it. 
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Rhino day…Lions, and more lion in a tree…Cheetahs…Tanzania tomorrow…

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How did we get so close, so lucky to get this shot?  I must be dreaming!

I purposely shot this photo to include the window ledge of the Land Cruiser to illustrate how close we were to this female lion. Never once, did we feel at risk during any of our sightings.

The black tear line differentiates in part, the difference between a cheetah and a leopard. 
She just wouldn’t open her eyes in the bright sun.  
Notice the difference in coloration and the lack of the black tear lines, making this a leopard. We spotted this one and a few others at dusk. They are nocturnal, often difficult to spot.
Anderson spotted this scene from afar, taking off on a mad dash to ensure we could get as close as possible to see this oddity, a lion in a tree.
Lions seldom climb trees in the Masai Mara. Even Anderson, a guide in this area or 14 years, was excited to see this rare find. Actually, he was excited to find all that we were fortunate to see.
As the young male lounged in the tree, the remainder of the family engaged in some serious power lounging below him.
 We couldn’t have moved any closer as were we all thrilled to be able to get these close-ups.
 “What a glorious day! Brother in a tree. Me, under the tree with my mom and siblings.”
 If you have a cat as a house pet, you sure can relate as to how these photo ops present themselves.
 Getting more comfortable in a tree is tricky.
 Finally, the perfect position for the lion in a tree, a rare sighting that we treasured.

As we work our way through the many stories and photos to share of our safari last week, we can’t help but marvel over the amount of action we’d witnessed in the short 3-day safari. Any longer and we’d have been overwhelmed trying to sort it all out.

With over 600 photos taken, approximately 400 saved for review, deciding which photos to post has been challenging. Daily, as I begin to write here, I mulled over those we haven’t posted, reviewing them with Tom for feedback.

Choosing our remaining favorites, our stories evolve along a natural course. At times, I find myself smiling so much that my face hurts.  At other times, tears flood my eyes, tears of joy for the experience, tears of sadness for the hard lives of the animals and their young, and tears of hope to someday return.

In the bush, it became so clear to me about the life cycle, how every creature placed on this earth by God, your chosen higher power or by nature itself, has a purpose and a natural food supply in its nearby surroundings, man/woman, animal, and vegetation;  animals, animal or vegetation.  That’s it.  Nothing more.

It part, it made me laugh since I guess I really have reverted to the beginnings of man/women in my diet.  All I eat is animal and vegetation.  Ironically, the Masai, whose story we’ll share in the next few days, only eating animals, no vegetation. They live very long lives and are slim and fit. 

Today, we continue on, the smiles still on our faces for the dream we chose to chase, for the knowledge we chose to gain, for the people we’ll never forget, for the wildlife presenting itself into our willing hearts and in a small part, for our own desire to put aside fear and apprehension to stretch ourselves to the limits.   

Rhinos are elusive, hard to find. We met several people on the return flight that never completed “The Big Five,” unable to spot the rhino or the leopard.  The animals almost lined up for us to spot The Big Five in the first 10 hours on safari.
Anderson explained that there are 30 rhinos remaining in the Masai Mara with only 10 on the side we were on of the Mara River. During our safari, we photographed 5 of the 10.


When we spotted this mom and baby, we went nuts with enthusiasm, deciding to wait patiently to get a better shot.  At this point, we were about around 100 feet from them.  A skittish male, perhaps dad, took off when he saw our vehicle approaching.


Off they went with caution and bulk in search of their next vegetarian meal.
Finally, mom and baby were in view.  My heart was pounding with excitement as I tried to hold the camera steady to get this photo.
Suddenly, what may have been dad appeared, rather grouchy and annoyed by our intrusion. We didn’t move or talk, practically holding our breath as she/he moved on.

Either this rhino has a partially pink lip or her tongue was sticking out. Look at the three birds sitting on her. We were thrilled for this close up as Anderson maneuvered the Land Cruiser to our best advantage.