Visitors to Khaya Umdani…They never disappoint…Never a dull moment…Hooked on a Feeling!

There he was, looking at us through the glass and wood sliding door in the master bedroom at Khaya Umdani. What a sight! 

One might think that sitting on a veranda, most days in the heat and humidity would become dull and meaningless. Tom said that in a funny way it’s almost like fishing.  The constant anticipation is worth every quiet moment. The joy of discovery makes it all worth it.

He stepped back as we opened the door after the noise from the door opening.

After a week at Khaya Umdani, we made the foolish assessment that perhaps the only visitors here would be warthogs, an occasional impala from afar, an elusive duiker in the dense bush,, or Vervet Monkeys, none of which were ever a disappointment. 

He inched closer as Tom dashed to get the cup of pellets while I was taking the photos while practically squealing with delight.

Yesterday, Danie stopped by and straightened out our thinking, saying that patience prevails and “they” would come, “they” being the larger animals. Of course, Danie knows better than we do. So, we reframed our thinking and retained our hope.

Moments later, Tom returned with the pellets while Mr. Kudu patiently waited. When we realized the female kudus were in the garden, we quietly moved back outside to gasp at the amazing sight of an additional nine female kudus munching in the yard.

Alas, yesterday afternoon when we wandered indoors to shower and dress for dinner at Ngwenya, we were enthralled by the above sight of Mr. Kudu at the sliding door to the bedroom. From there it was an hour of pure pleasure as Tom scrambled to get the pellets and I snapped away. The shower would have to wait.

The female kudus were scattered about the yard with a few Warthog families hanging around as well, hoping a tasty morsel would come their way.

Last night out to dinner with Okee Dokee joining us as our guest (we adore her), we mutually agreed upon a fact that holds so much truth: Being in the presence of animals, wild and not so wild, makes one feel peaceful and happy, a feeling often lasting hours later.

Female kudus don’t have antlers.  Their big pink ears add to their beauty.

Take us, already happy travelers, and place wildlife in front of us and we become wildly happy with smiles on our faces that we can’t erase for hours. It’s no wonder that medical science has proven that animal interactions may be instrumental in helping patients heal from ill-health. Click here for one of many medical studies supporting this concept.

Ms. Kudu getting ready to munch on a tree. So pretty.

It wouldn’t be surprising if scientists studied residents of Marloth Park to discover that they lived longer and healthier lives with constant exposure to wildlife. It’s no wonder, I have angst about leaving, three weeks from today. I’m hooked on a feeling!

Graceful, gentle, and quiet.

What we felt when we saw this Mr. Kudu at the bedroom door and moments later his entourage of nine gorgeous females can only compare to the joy we felt when 12 giraffes stood in the driveway of the little house, almost two months ago. And then, more and more such sightings! The high continues on each day.

This baby kudu was still a little unsure on her feet. Most likely she was born in the past 60 days. Moms keep babes out of sight for several weeks after giving birth to protect them from potential predators.

Add the pleasure of our time at Khaya Umdani, the laughter from the warthog families that visit each day, and this, in itself has been a blissful experience. On Sunday morning, we’ll move out to make way for an upcoming prior reservation. 

The handsome male explored this side of the pool…

Do we go back to the little house or do Louise and Danie have something new up their sleeves planned for us?  Soon, we shall see.  And of course, we’ll promptly share the details with all of you.

Then, he wandered over to the opposite side of the pool, all the while making eye contact with us. He was the only male in the group, commanding reverence from the females and the Warthogs. Ha!

With newly made local friends returning to Marloth Park today and more a week later, we look forward to our social life firing up once again. 

Another baby caught our eye.  Mom was always nearby, keeping a watchful eye. It was time for us to go. It was hard to leave them, but they had begun to wander away for the next lush vegetation in the area. When we returned after dinner in the dark, we saw the herd in a nearby yard.

Plus, we want to say thank you to all of our readers for staying with us on our journey, soon to make a 180-degree switch from wildlife to culture. In a mere 21 days, we’ll be leaving South Africa to travel to Morocco, where we’ll live in the colorful hustle and bustle city of Marrakesh for 75 days, where we won’t be cooking any of our own meals. Wow! That should be interesting. 

Returned to Khaya Umdani from Nelspruit with new laptop…Vervet Monkey invasion photos…Great trip with only a few scary moments…

Many times we’ve seen Vervet Monkeys holding their babies, most often from a distance. Rarely staying still long enough for a photo we were so excited to get these shots at Khaya Umdani. We’d left yogurt out overnight for the bush babies, forgetting to bring it back inside in the morning. Suddenly, we were surrounded by over a dozen monkeys only feet from us. I asked Tom to avoid scaring them off until I got a few photos that we share with our readers today.

Becoming familiar with a new keyboard is tricky as I write today’s post. I’m not manually adept, as we so well know from my dropping habits. As a senior in high school my typing class teacher suggested I drop out after three weeks to avoid ruining an otherwise excellent grade point average. I was on the verge of flunking typing.

Check out that pink ear, which later changes to black as they mature. Many of these photos were taken while I stayed put on my chair at the table on the veranda for fear of scaring them off.

I’d still flunk today. After working on computers since the 1970’s when at that time, they filled a room, I’ve yet to master the skill of typing without often looking at the keys.

They were as fascinated in us as we were in them.  However, if one of these gets inside the house, they are horribly destructive.  We chose not to eat anything outside to keep them at bay.  All windows and doors must be closed or guarded to keep them outside.

The problem now revolves around the fact that my new laptop (keep in mind, I had few options at the Incredible Connection store n Nelspruit), doesn’t have a lighted keyboard, as did the broken laptop. Plus the placement of the keys is different enough to make me struggle as I type here now.

Sitting on a log, thinking about plans for the day!

But, we have proven that you can “teach an old dog new tricks” and soon I’ll do at least as well as I did on the old laptop. Do I like the new one? Other than the lack of the lighted keyboard, it has everything I need. What did I get? An HP (not my first brand choice) Pavilion 15-n213si Intel TouchSmart Notebook PC (Energy Star).  I’m OK with it.

“Shall I eat this or not?”

How’s my installation going? Good so far, except I’m having trouble downloading MS Office. I had the discs, but lost the Product Key, thought I had it. Alas, I have no choice but to repurchase. I had a very old version anyway, seven years old. I guess it is time to bite the bullet and upgrade. With all of our Excel spreadsheets, Word documents, and email folders in Outlook with all of our future reservations, Office is a must.

This character jumped up on the fence around a first floor storage area.  At this point, Tom was determined to scoot them on their way. It only took a few waves of his hands and loud noises to send them on their way. For several hours, they hung around the yard, watching us.

Unfortunately, it’s not as easy as downloading Office and getting a new Product Key. When trying to do so over a period of several hours last night, Microsoft picked up that I’m in South Africa and won’t let me change the location to enable me the use a credit card to make the purchase. The address used for billing on the credit card needs to match up with our US address. It defaults to SA. I tried everything to change it.

Once we arrived back in Marloth Park, it didn’t take long to spot this mom and baby Zebra on the side of the road.

Today, using Skype I’ll call to get it resolved. I’d thought of using a VPN (virtual private network) so that it will always appear my entry into websites in from the US, but they slow down the WiFi signal which is not acceptable with the already slow connections in most locations.

Notice the little dark spot on the interior of the baby’s left leg.  These dark spots grow as they grow and provide a cushion for the hooves when lying down to sleep.  Oh, Mother Nature, you didn’t miss a beat!

Overall, the trip to Nelspruit went better than expected. We encountered only one major construction delay where we didn’t move for 30 minutes. Many drivers had shut off their vehicles, getting out to move their legs with several peeing in the tall grass. 

Soon, they were on their way and so were we, anxious to return to Khaya Umdani.

I asked Okee Dokee if it was illegal to pee on the side of the road. You know, “indecent exposure” in many counties could result in going to jail and/or fines. She looked at me as if I was nuts saying, “Of course not!  Where would one go during frequent delays on the roads?” Had I been wearing my Africa boots, I may have done the same. 

A wildebeest on the side of the road refused to pick up her head for a good photo. Both male and female wildebeest have horns.

Oddly, once we arrived at the Riverside Mall where the store was located, the power was off in the entire mall, the stores all dark. For a moment, I allowed myself to think the worst, mentioning my apprehension to Okee Dokee. I couldn’t help but remember the mall bombing in Nairobi, Kenya while we were living there, imaging that the power may have been shut down by the evil perpetrators before setting off the horrifying explosives that killed many.

Tentatively, we continued on, searching for the store. How would I purchase a computer in the dark and, how would I pay for it, if the POS stations weren’t working in the power outage? Alas, moments before reaching the store, the power returned as we both sighed in relief.

Our helpful and knowledgeable rep at Incredible Connection, Borgani Mbuyane, (Ph:0829368182), whom I’d spoken to the prior day on the phone, was not only warm and welcoming when we arrived but quick to respond to my inquiries. 

With only two choices fulfilling my objectives of one terabyte memory, a 15.6 touch screen, and hopefully Intel CORE i5, no more than 20 minutes later, we were out the door, laptop box in hand.

The cost was only slightly higher than that which we’d paid in the US. With the tax included the total cost was US $983.61, ZAR $10999. Avoiding shipping and customs fees, made this a bargain. This unexpected expense was softened by the fact that we are well under budget for our time in South Africa.

On the return drive we stopped for the vendors on the side of the road, shortly outside of Nelspruit to purchase macadamia nuts and a bag of 10 beautiful huge avocados for US $3.58, ZAR $40 for the entire bag!

It was only 2:45 pm when we returned to Khaya Umdani. Gone less than five hours, it was the longest Tom and I have been apart in 16 months! It was good to see him!

Now, Thursday morning, we’re situated on the veranda for the day until Okee Dokee returns to take us to Ngwenya for dinner tonight to watch the wildlife and sunset over the Crocodile River. Hopefully, tomorrow we’ll return with exciting photos.

Although without a computer for only two days, it feels good to be back!

Have a great day!

Off to Nelspruit to purchase a laptop…A frustrating 24 hours…I admit it, clumsy me!…

It was yesterday morning, about this time, that I turned on my screen-damaged laptop to discover an error message warning that it was about to crash. It suggested I run a backup and a subsequent system restore.

The problem was that I couldn’t get a live screen that would allow either to occur. (I won’t bore you with the details on performing either of those, which many of you know and some do not).

After several hours of trying to reboot over and over, I finally got in and was able to backup all my valuable Outlook email, photos, and all files to our two terabytes external hard-drive. However, the system restore utility wouldn’t work. By 5:00 pm, all of my data was on the external hard drive after a stressful day.

During the lengthy “waiting” periods for the system to reboot, I used Tom’s computer to search for possible online resources in order to purchase either a tablet or a laptop locally. The reasons for the necessity of purchasing locally is explained in yesterday’s post.

Louise and Danie each stopped by during this period, offering suggestions that were helpful, saving a considerable amount of more time trying to shop online, which proved to be pointless. Without my own South Africa ID# on one of the two possible sites, I wasn’t able to place an order. The other site indicated a 10 day shipping period after it left their facility for another three to five days. We could be gone by the time it would arrive.

Louise suggested I call the location in Nelspruit, Incredible Connection, the largest digital equipment store in the area, order and pay over the phone and she’d sent a courier to pick it up who charges a minimal cost. I was hopeful after hearing this.

After she left, I called the store to discover phone orders are simply not a possibility, due to the risk of fraud from stolen credit and debit cards. I get this, but was further frustrated. My only option was to go to Nelspruit, an all-day outing, certainly not my choice while we’re so enjoying our continuing time at Khaya Umdani. So it goes.

As for the iPad concept or tablet concept many of you may suggest for me: With all the travel and financial documents and spreadsheets that we have saved on the external hard drive using both Microsoft Word, Excel and Outlook, there is no way I’d want to spend the time to make this available in an Apple or other non-MS Windows-based product. I love these products, have used them for years and at this point, don’t want to change. 

On many occasions, I’ve sent a Microsoft based document to others using an iPad or other tablets only to discover they are unable to open them. We’ve found that family members are also unable to use Skype with an adequate connection using an iPad or tablet.

During last night’s fitful sleep, I made the decision that I must purchase a new laptop. Undoubtedly, based on research online at the website, it’s highly unlikely that they’ll have the most current models. Computers are not manufactured here in South Africa. Everything is imported, requiring import fees and VAT taxes (value-added tax).

This may not be an uncommon dilemma for the business traveler with this same predicament; a broken or stolen laptop or tablet. What do they do? Most likely, what I’m doing today, traveling to the big city to make a new purchase.

Right now, I’m using Tom’s laptop which he uses throughout the day checking on financial matters, communicating with family and friends, and updating his favorite hobby, ancestry.com. I didn’t feel it was fair to use his computer for too long.

Last night, we watched a movie on his laptop after I’d downloaded all the saved TV shows and movies onto the external hard drive. With the loss of only a few apps that are nagging at me, I can now live with the fact that this morning, my almost totally defunct laptop will not let me access anything at all. It’s OK. I can now say goodbye.

On the return drive from Nelspruit with Okee Dokee (Tom is not going with us), I’ll stop at the little house and retrieve the disks for the above Microsoft products. 

We expect to return by 5:00 or 6:00 pm. I’ll make dinner and then begin the process of reinstalling all the apps I need and transferring only the necessary data I need to function. There’s no need to use up many gigs of storage with our 1000’s of photos. They can remain in both Dropbox and on the hard drive for double security.  Perhaps, I’ll even load all the files on whatever cloud comes with the laptop that I purchase.

Hopefully, when I write tomorrow and post some amazing awaiting photos, I’ll feel at ease knowing this is behind me. In the past year, I’ve dropped both my new expensive smartphone and a laptop, breaking them both. What’s the deal? Clumsy perhaps? Or simply, too preoccupied to pay enough attention to things in my hands? Most likely, both of these. 

After all, isn’t clumsiness, just not paying attention? I suppose it is. Can I train myself to pay more attention as to what is in my hands? I don’t drop dishes, glasses, or other items. Just expensive digital equipment. I’m certainly motivated to change after these two harrowing experiences.

I always justify the breaking of these two pieces of vital equipment, by saying, “It could be worse.” And, without a doubt, we’re grateful that it wasn’t. Very grateful.

Tomorrow, we’ll be back into our usual routine of taking photos, posting online, and cheerfully going about our remaining 23 days in Marloth Park. The time is flying!

Minimal post today!…Computer crashed…Heading to Nelspruit tomorrow morning to make a purchase…Back on Wednesday afternoon…

Nothing gets me more riled up than computer problems. It crashed, most likely as a result of recently dropping it. I spent the entire morning trying to find a way to purchase a new laptop or a tablet befitting my needs, only to become totally frustrated.

Ordering a device online is tricky for several reasons.  Fast shipping from the US is expensive. Last 13 pound, 5.9 kg box cost US $458, ZAR $5121.50. Plus, the computer would have to go through customs upon arrival for more fees.

My only alternative, if we’re not willing to spend the above and more, is to make a purchase in South Africa. It’s impossible to order online since all online in-country purchases require a name matching South Africa ID#, comparable to a US social security number. One cannot “borrow” a number.

The handwriting is on the wall. Calling the largest computer store in Nelspruit this morning they confirmed there is no alternative but to make the purchase in person.

Tomorrow morning at 10 am, Okee Dokee will drive me on a long trip to the store. Tom will remain behind at Khaya Umdani. With massive amounts of road construction, the former 90-minute drive may take upwards of three hours each way.

Upon returning from Nelspruit, I’ll post an update as to whether I have time to post tomorrow or if it will have to wait until Thursday.

I have managed to save all of our photos and files in Dropbox and have some amazing new photos of our recent Vervet Monkey raid!

Back soon.

No Super Bowl Sunday here…”Home is where the heart is”…Pricing for Khaya Umdani…The Safari Room…New wildlife photos…

Louise suggested we put out some yogurt at night for the nocturnal bush babies. We placed a small bowl in a hanging wood birdhouse close to a tree. Unfortunately, we were distracted yesterday morning and forgot to remove the little plastic bowl of yogurt. Going inside to get beverages, we returned to find these Vervet Monkeys with the little bowl in hand, lapping up the yogurt. Tom scared them off (they can be destructive) and they dropped the bowl, running off.

Never much of a football fan myself and Tom being a die-hard Minnesota Vikings fan with no interest in other teams, other than the unlikely prospect of the Vikings beating a team in a game, missing another Super Bowl didn’t have much effect on us.

It’s tricky taking photos of Vervet Monkeys.  They never sit still for a second. After Tom chased them the veranda, the hung around the braai area, without a concern.

However, we did discuss the time difference as to when the game would begin (it was 1:30 am this morning here in South Africa) and we wondered who won until Tom discovered the winner by opening Facebook first thing this morning and seeing the score this morning in an email from his brother Jerome.

This Vervet Monkey was trying to figure out how to lap up a few drops of the yogurt on the stones that the other had spilled carrying the bowl.

Although, we did think of our friends and family gathering together for the game, as we had done at times in the past with me making a football-shaped and decorated cake, along with a smaller football-shaped cheese ball with all the other nasty snacks we used to enjoy. How times have changed for us!

The moms are exceedingly protective of their babies making it difficult to get close enough for a clearer shot.

Nostalgic?  Perhaps, a bit, mostly over missing the “people” not the game or the food. But, this morning, when we threw open the entire glass wall of doors to the veranda at Khaya Umdani, we knew we were “home.” You know, “the place where the heart is.” 

And that place is the “home” that Tom and I had made for ourselves wherever we may be at any given moment. Isn’t that what “home” is, the place you gravitate back to at the end of the day, or after an outing to find the familiar comforts that embrace you the moment that you walk in the door?

For now, it is luxurious Khaya Umdani. In a few days, it will be back at Hornbill, the smaller house, where perhaps our warthog families are awaiting us, standing in the driveway at full attention with ears flicking back and forth when I speak in my high pitched voice in greeting. Even here, only four short days later, several moms already respond when I say, “Good morning, Ms. Warthog. Good morning baby warthogs.”

An outdoor adventure can be had in the Safari room on the second level of Khaya Umdani.

As for the rates on Khaya Umdani,* which we’d mentioned yesterday, that we’d post today, here they are:

December/January (per night)
(01 Dec ’14 – 31 Jan ’15)
ZAR 5000  US $469.58  EU$344.14
All other periods ZAR  4000    US $376.66    EU $275.31

*Rates are subject to change and may vary based on the size of the group. Imagine how reasonable this would be for two families sharing this fabulous house as compared to each family tightly packed into two small rooms in a resort hotel? 

The Safari room is completely screened for an open-air experience, enjoyed by young and old alike.The sounds of the night are enchanting in this “sleeping outdoors” experience.

Restaurant prices are usually no more than US $25, ZAR $266.20 per couple, including cocktails, at the finest of establishments in the area. Groceries are usually 40% less than we’ve seen in other large cities. The most tender delicious filet mignon is usually no more than US $3.91, ZAR $41.67 per serving. 

Can you imagine how exciting this room would be for kids, especially, preteens and teenagers?

Although airfare from some countries is high and the time to travel is long, the experience is priceless; friendly people, wildlife in the yard, Kruger National Park a short distance for some of the most amazing safari experiences in the world and the unreal experience of the Bush Braai and Game Drive, hosted by Louise and Danie, an experience we’ll always treasure.

Yes, the posts of the past few days may have been a huge ad for this house and this area. And yes, we share these details on behalf of our wonderful hosts, Louise and Danie. But, folks, we’re experiencing the most unbelievable adventure of our lives. For nature lovers, nothing compares. 

The moms often look at me intently when I talk in my high pitched voice. They’re asking for pellets. I comply. No longer will I toss pellets near this small fence after yesterday’s incident when the baby crawled inside the fence and the mom went after it, almost knocking it over. Tom scared them off before the fence broke. (See yesterday’s post with photo).

When we’ll be in Hawaii beginning in eight months, we’ll spend most of our days whale watching and hopefully, we’ll swim with the dolphins. Maybe, sometime in the future, we’ll watch for moose in Alaska, crocodiles, and anacondas on the Amazon River or tigers in India. With continued good health, we hope to continue on and on.

Impalas, in this case, a male with the antlers, are rather shy. Their gentle nature and gracefulness make them a joy to watch, especially when they leap through the air.

But, being here, living in Africa and now in Marloth Park, which is at times hard and challenging, has been the best experience of our lives, one that has changed us forever and that we will carry into our hearts wherever we may be.

We often hear “people,” ask, that on one’s deathbed, what will they wish they had done differently? The answer will never be, “I wished I had worked harder,” nor “I wish I’d had more “stuff.” It will always be about “love” and “experience” of which, if it were all to end now, we can emphatically state, “We’ve had it all.”

For this, we are humbled. For this, we are grateful. We carry on…

Would’ve, could’ve, should’ve…Not for us…Lots more photos…

How beautifully nature provides for its creatures!  Look at the lack of fat on this male impala and its fine musculature that we spotted in the yard at Khaya Umdani.

In a perfect world, I could easily let go of my thoughts of leaving Marloth Park. That was the plan. Now, with only 26 days until leaving for Morocco, a sense of loss keeps flitting through my mind. Quickly, I push it back. 

Another impala nibbled on this sharp spiny bush.

Last week, while at Jabula Lodge we met a local man, chatting with him for a few hours. A kindly gentleman, in our age range, he couldn’t encourage us enough to go to Capetown, South Africa for all its vast experiences and varied cultures. He explained that we’d be doing ourselves a disservice not to go while we’re already in South Africa.

The bed in the master suite in Khaya Umdani is comfortable and appointed with the plush bedding.
This is the seating area in the master bedroom where we’ve lounged the past three nights before heading to bed.
A Jacuzzi tub such as this would have been a must for me in my old life.  With no tubs available in most of our past vacation homes, I’ve lost interest in soaking instead of preferring a quick shower in order to get outdoors. None the less, this large tub may have considerable appeal for a weary guest after a lengthy game drive in Kruger National Park.

Understanding his thoughtful determination to convince us, it was a losing battle. As much as we’ve been told to explore Capetown we don’t want to leave Marloth Park.

Seating for 10, this hand made dining table and chairs could easily accommodate a few more if necessary. With six bedrooms and five bathrooms, Khaya Umdani can easily accommodate a good-sized family or group.

If one died, awakening in Heaven, would one say, “Is there somewhere I can go that will make me happier?’ (Excuse the analogy. It was the best I could muster this early in the morning). Why fix it when it’s not broken?

Tom, lounging in the shallow side of the splash pool.  After putting down the camera, I joined him.

But, that’s how we feel. Why leave when we’re happy? Why spend more money when the money we’ve spent here has been well spent on another dream come true? 

Tom was worried that the mom would revolt when this baby warthog worked his way through the little fence. I laughed hysterically as I grabbed the camera. Moments later, the mom started pushing through the fence to get to the baby. Tom scooted them both off. We had left a few pellets on the opposite side of the fence, but the baby noticed the “grass was greener” for munching on the other side!

After all, isn’t the reason we’re traveling the world, homeless, free of “stuff”, affording it via a strict budget, for fulfillment and happiness? Isn’t a part of the pleasure, sharing it with those that may enjoy a tiny piece by traveling along with us via our posts and photos, or for those who may consider it for themselves for a week, a month, or more.

Tonight, after dinner we’ll try out this loft entertainment area with flat-screen TV and comfy seating areas.

Why do any of us have a cabin in the woods or on a lake, or take a trip to Las Vegas to play at the casino, or take a river cruise down the Seine other than for our own pleasure? Do we remind others that they need to go elsewhere if they are already happy with what they have?  Hardly.

This huge covered ottoman is the perfect spot for putting up one’s feet for “power lounging.”

Attempting to convince our newly made well-intentioned acquaintance at the Jabula Lodge bar that we are content in Marloth Park was pointless. Although, we appreciated his concern and his love for his country, eventually we smiled, shook hands, and were on our way, never faltering for a moment that our remaining time in South Africa would be as wonderful as it’s been thus far.

Also on the second level is the aptly named bush baby room with its own private veranda in close proximity to where a number of the nocturnal bushbabies reside.

Yes, there’s the heat, near midsummer. There are some nasty insects and crawling things, avoided with a modicum of respect for their existence and watching where one walks. Every morning I continue to tip my shoes upside down, banging them on the floor in case someone is residing therein. And, we shake our towels and clothing when showering and dressing. We always turn on a light when entering a darkened room.

Coffee and tea supplies are readily available in the bushbaby room, making a beverage on the private veranda a must, morning or night.

All of these simple precautions have become routine after living in Africa for five months so far. We accept that whatever precautions we may take may not be enough to prevent injury or illness. But, isn’t that the case no matter where you live; falling off a ladder, on the steps in your own home, or cutting your finger chopping vegetables for dinner? Life is filled with risks.

The modern vanity area in the en suite bathroom of the Bush Baby room.

As our time at Khaya Umdani continues, we find the same contentment that we’ve found in the small house; filled with awe and wonder over our surroundings, the bush, and its varied gifts of nature.

The veranda off of the bushbaby room is a perfect spot for a morning beverage or a nightcap. The opportunity to see the bush babies at night is enhanced by leaving them a few bites of a banana over a period of several nights, increasing the likelihood they will reappear.

Yesterday afternoon, the sky cleared after a few hot, humid and misty days and we decided to try out the swimming pool. With the pool in the sunlight, it’s less occupied by insects than the pool at the little house. Also, the thought of getting back a touch of color on our now pale skin was as appealing as splashing in the cool water of the pool. It was refreshing, to say the least.

We were excited to see another tree frog foam nest hanging over the private watering hole in Khaya Umdani.

Today, another sunny day, we’ll do the same as we continue to treasure every moment in Khaya Umdani. More than anything, we’ll be spending yet another glorious day in Marloth Park without giving a thought to where we “should be,” where we “could be” or where we might find more contentment that we already have found.

Tomorrow, we’ll share the rental rates for Khaya Umdani, more wildlife photos including an invasion by the Vervet Monkeys and, the safari room where guests can sleep outdoors to embrace the nighttime wildlife sounds, a true bush experiences especially enjoyed by children.

Back to my old ways…Inspired by Khaya Umdani, a look inside the cupboards…Food photos…Visitors…and more…

Hand carved African decorator items are tastefully displayed in Khaya Umdani.
Vegetation native to South Africa grows freely without little care or maintenance.
There in the side yard, outside the master bedroom door, was this lovely Bird of Paradise that had bloomed since we arrived on Thursday. This morning we noticed a second bloom.
Less than 48 hours ago, we temporarily moved into this exquisite six-bedroom, five-bathroom home in Marloth Park, known as Khaya Umdami (houses are named in Africa and some other parts of the world), and instantly I fall back into my old patterns of thinking, “Shall we invite company for dinner?” and, “What shall I wear?” These are two questions that haven’t crossed my lips in a very long time
Besides, I don’t have enough clothing left to make what I wear ever an issue. I wear what is clean and available. Style is out the window!
When Louise and Danie renovated Khaya Umdami, this sixth bedroom was a part of the renovation. During the construction period, baby warthogs entered of their own volition and slept in the en suite bathroom’s shower at night. In the morning, they’d have to scoot them out. Thus, the name of this bedroom accessed via the veranda.

The warthog room as all of the other five bedrooms has its own unique décor and stone en suite bathroom. Amenities include its own refrigerator as shown in the far right.

In our old lives Tom often referred to my “linen napkin lifestyle” which obviously, I’ve let go since the beginning of our world travels. Not only have I let it go but I’ve found myself content with the dishtowel on my lap as we dine on the same 10 things we cook for dinner, over and over again. 
Nope, there were no hippos visiting this room. But, at night one can hear the gurgling sounds of the hippos emanated from the nearby Crocodile River.
Mosquito netting  as shown in the hippo room is commonly placed around beds in Africa. Although, after two months in Marloth Park we’ve yet to use the netting. Keeping the bedroom door closed during the day prevents insects from entering. Plus, the bedrooms have air conditioning, which further reduces the presence of mosquitoes.  I recall being concerned about mosquitoes when booking with Louise and Danie for Marloth Park. They haven’t been an issue, using a bit of repellent each day, even for me, a mosquito magnet.
This soaking tub in the hippo room is appealing after a bush braai (fabulous food!) which includes a game drive in the late afternoon, hosted by Louise and Danie. We know from personal experience!

My lifetime interest as a “foodie” has all but disappeared as we’ve discovered that special ingredients conducive to my way of eating become more and more difficult to find as we’ve traveled the world. A former dessert baking aficionado, I’ve since given up grains, starch, and sugar, leaving few options for desserts so we stick to nuts, nuts, and more nuts, which are prolific in Africa, some of the best in the world.

The Kingfisher room is named for the frequent sighting of the Kingfisher bird, often seen through the window of this room on a nearby tree. Our eyes are peeled in that direction.
The Kingfisher room has a bathroom with a stone shower a few steps outside the door which may be used as its own private bath or shared with guests while mulling on the main floor.

With planning last night’s dinner imminent, it didn’t take long for me to search the cupboards and drawers in Khaya Umdami in search of linen napkins, suddenly no longer content with a dishtowel in place of a neatly pressed linen napkin.

The well-stocked kitchen was calling me as I began searching through cabinets and drawers to enhance last night’s dinner place settings.
The only mess in this cupboard is our stuff on the middle shelf which we brought over from the smaller house.
The beautiful dinnerware made an attractive place setting possible for our dinner.
This organized cupboard holds a wide array of wine and beverage glasses.
With little access to plastic containers for over a year, this tidy cupboard held particular appeal.
More pots, pans, and baking and cooking supplies, more than we’ve had anywhere we’ve lived since leaving the US. Look! There are even two graters!

So, last night, we grilled the two chickens we’d brought with us on the spit of the traditional, non-braai, gas grill so readily familiar to us for a wonderful nostalgic dinner on cloth placemats with linen napkins, proper place settings and the peculiar knowledge that here in Khaya Umdami we need not even wash our own dishes, leaving them for household staff to handle the next day. How decadent!

Our simple place setting fulfilled all of my expectations for a dinner outdoors last night. 
There is was our first outdoor grilled dinner since leaving the US. None of our past vacation/holiday homes had outdoor grills that we’ve found suitable. This was a rare treat. Wrapped in foil on the side grate is the chicken gizzards and livers which I’ll eat with tonight’s repeat dinner. Tom only eats white meat and I like dark meat, making a whole chicken perfect for us. Zeff cleaned it this morning and, did all the dishes! Oh, good grief!
This was Tom’s plate of food.  Mine was identical except piled high with the various bones and dark meat parts. We’d cooked the chickens for 90 minutes, on high for the first 20 minutes, and on low for the remaining time. The chicken was moist and delicious. As usual, we had our favorite low carb, sugar-free coleslaw, a daily staple which we love.

Soon, we’ll return to the smaller house, and once again, we’ll return to using dishtowels as a linen napkin and to my bigger concerns expressed to Tom dozens of times each day, “Did you hear something?” or, “Did you see something?” Of course, these questions revolve around our intense interest in seeing more wildlife, any wildlife actually! Pigs, striped horses, or poop rolling beetles! We love them all!

This was a first for us, a mom warthog with long brown hair. She was kneeling to eat after I tossed some pellets. Their knees are particularly calloused so they can easily kneel when eating. Their snouts make it difficult for them to eat fully standing.

For now, as we languish in this special property, we revel in its stories, its amenities, it’s a magical way of being incorporated into the bush, its lush vegetation and, its wildlife, offering a cocoon of comfort and wonder that only Marloth Park, South Africa can offer.

A young male impala checked us out before venturing to Khaya Umdami‘s private watering hole.

Yesterday afternoon, Danie stopped by offering that he and Louise teach us to braai on the open wood fire here at Khaya Umdami, the true South African way, a lesson we must learn before departing in 27 days. We heartily agreed with considerable enthusiasm and an abundance of appreciation for yet another amazing experience in the bush.

We held our breath waiting for him to take a drink, not to disappoint.

Ha! It looks as if company may be coming for dinner after all!  Get out the linen napkins! And, if only for a little while, take me back to my linen napkin ways!

Note Tomorrow, the unbelievable master bedroom befitting a king and queen, the “outdoor” bedroom, and more wildlife photos we’ve taken in the past few days at Khaya Umdami.  Our driver, Okee Dokee, is out of town for the weekend. But, we’re so content that we have little desire to leave.

Khaya Umdani…An exquisite opportunity…A respite in another area in Marloth Park…Our temporary new home…

Khaya Umdani is a six bedroom, five bathroom stunning bush home fully embracing the integrity of African culture while providing a luxury environment befitting the expectations of both the seasoned traveler and those less traveled, seeking the comforts of stylish and easy living.

It’s not that we weren’t happy in the other house. We were rather content. But, our fabulous hosts, Louise and Danie suggested we experience a few of their other properties to review and share with our worldwide readership. Over the next several days, we’ll share our experiences as residents of Khaya Umdani.

We couldn’t have been more thrilled and appreciative of this opportunity, especially after we arrived at 10:30 yesterday morning for Louise’s expert tour of this upscale home, most likely one of the most desirable properties in Marloth Park.

This veranda is where we’ll spend our time for easy viewing of the massive grounds, a combination of the dense bush with a few open spaces for wildlife to run. This shot reminds me of a scene in the movie “Out of Africa” which we watched a few months ago while in Kenya.

Nothing was spared in the design and décor of this luxury home with six bedrooms, five of which have en suite bathrooms. Each bedroom is aptly named befitting this unique bush location and in some cases, includes a story surrounding past wildlife experiences on the property which we’ll share soon.

Packing yet again, including clothing, toiletries, food for meals, drinks, snacks, and digital equipment was challenging in yesterday’s heat and humidity apparently typical as South Africa moves into February, comparable to August in the northern hemisphere. Today, it’s cool and pleasant after last night’s rains.

This is the oversized eight-person table where we’re sitting as we write here now, overlooking the ‘double pool” with a shallow and deeper depth suitable for all. Chaise lounges to the left await us as soon as the sun appears after a much needed rainy night. 

Once we were unpacked, securing all of our food supplies from a potential monkey invasion, Danie stopped by to ensure all of our needs and comforts were met, showing us how to use the first gas grill we’ve had access to since leaving the US many moons ago. 

We brought along two frozen uncooked chickens and we were delighted to see an “American” type grill over which we all laughed as Danie removed the cover. The convenient modern kitchen has every possible amenity including a wine cooler, a dishwasher and a wide array of small kitchen appliances, few of which we’ve had in any of our vacation homes outside the US.

To the left is the open braai (fire pit) suitable for cooking or a bonfire with a stone seating area. To the right, is an enclosed wood-burning braai with a stainless steel sink and every possible rack and utensil. The yard is this area is “gently” fenced to keep nosy visitors from occupying this area while preparing meals.

In addition, the cupboards were impeccably stocked with spices, coffee, teas, and every imaginable dish, knife, flatware, bowl, container, and pot befitting the most ambitious cook. 

Tomorrow, we’ll share photos of the well-stocked interior of the cabinets, an unbelievable sight to see.(We’re waiting for the sun to appear for brighter interior photos). Only Louise‘s fine taste and detail orientated demeanor could create such pleasing and useful spaces. 

And for the less savvy braai cooks, here is the “traditional” and delightfully, familiar gas grill on which we’ll cook tonight’s dinner, roasted chickens on the electric spit. 

In South Africa, the wood-fired open braai (fire pit) is a daily means of cooking that for most citizens, is more of a tradition than a necessity, a reason for friends to gather to partake of the local beer and wine, for which South Africa is known. Add a variety of delicious grilled and stewed grass-fed meats, a few starchy side dishes and a South African meal is ready to enjoy.

Khayi Umdani offers features we experienced, in part, during our past two months in Marloth Park, including daily maid service, dishwashing if desired, laundry service, and maintenance. Every possible means of providing relaxation and comfort are afforded by it’s guests. 

The attention to detail in the finest of amenities is reflected in the lovely locally made table on the veranda.

Louise suggested we leave our breakfast or prior night’s dishes for the staff to handle the next morning. We never leave dirty dishes overnight. But, the staff is on hire in any case and prefer to be kept busy than standing around from 7:30 am to 2:30 pm each day as they work about the house attending to every detail. They are unobtrusive, quiet, and respectful, never causing us to feel that they are underfoot.

With Zeff only, coming to the other house twice a week, we were more than satisfied. Knowing how much we’ve liked him, Louise and Danie ensured he’ll be here for us during our time in Khaya Umdani. What service! The quality of service provided by Louise and Danie and their staff fined tuned to perfection, is comparable to that which one would find in the finest of five-star resorts and hotels. That quality of service follows through from our smaller house, all the way to Khaya Umdani and other fine properties owned and managed by Louise and Danie.

The natural stone pool is meticulously maintained daily.  The water is crystal clear.

Already scheduled to dine out when we moved in on Thursday, I had wished we were dining in. The moment we feasted our eyes on the massive dining room table with seating for 10, we knew a home-cooked meal was imminent. Also, the square oversized dining table for eight on the veranda holds an enormous appeal for us, where we’re seated now as we write here. The temperature has cooled and we’re blissfully relaxed.

Today, we’re sharing exterior photos of the house with interior photos following over the next several days.  Tonight, once the beautifully appointed dinnerware is filled with our homemade “grilled chicken,” veggies, and salad, we’ll take photos to share in Saturday’s post along with more photos of this exquisite vacation/holiday home as we experience the endless areas offering the utmost of comfort, style, space, and amenities. 

These sturdy swing chairs are actually very comfortable.

So far, we’ve seen a number of warthog families, tentatively approaching us curious as to our motives. Soon, they’ll see that we respect their environment and that they need not fear our presence.

The private watering hold attracts wildlife from all over the area. During heavy rains, this “creek” is filled with water.

As always, our eyes continue to scan the grounds for even the slightest movement, anticipating full well, that more visitors will arrive in these surroundings. Although we’re only a few miles/meters from the other house, perhaps a few of our favorites will wander our way. One never knows!

Our first warthog visitor with two babies, the mom giving me “the look” that says, “Did you bring any pellets with you?”  “Yes,” I said, “We certainly did,” as I ran to the kitchen for a handful.  Khaya Umdani, heavenly!

Flight info from South Africa to Marrakesh, Morocco…29 hours of travel time if no delays…Yikes! We’re moving to a new house for the weekend…details tomorrow…

02/28/2014 – Departure   2 stops
Total travel time: 19 h 50 m
custom air icon
Johannesburg
Cairo
8 h 0 m 
JNB  9:45pm
Terminal B
CAI  5:45am
+1 day  
Terminal 3
 
Egyptair 840
Economy/Coach (Q)
| Seat 28K, 28H |
Confirm or change seats with the airline*
Layover: 3 h 25 m
custom air icon
Cairo
Casablanca
6 h 0 m 
CAI  9:10am
Terminal 3
CMN  1:10pm
Terminal 2
 
Egyptair 847
Economy/Coach (Q)
| Seat 24K, 24J |
Confirm or change seats with the airline*
Layover: 1 h 45 m
custom air icon
Casablanca
Marrakech
0 h 40 m 
CMN  2:55pm
Terminal 1
RAK  3:35pm
Terminal 1
(Arrives on
03/01/2014)
 
Royal Air
Maroc 803
Economy/Coach (U)
| Confirm seats with the airline *
Price Summary
Traveler
1: Adult
 
$711.70
Flight
 
$468.00
Taxes & Fees
 
$243.70
Traveler
2: Adult
 
$711.70
Flight
 
$468.00
Taxes & Fees
 
$243.70
Expedia Booking
Fee
 
$14.00
Total: US $1,437.40
ZAR $15,305 

In order to begin the above flight for our trip to Marrakesh, Morocco on February 28th, we must also fly from Kruger/Nelspruit Airport to Johannesburg Tambo Airport in South Africa at another cost of ZAR $2036, US $191.21 which we booked yesterday. We’d booked the longer leg of the journey in early December.

Our combined cost for all four flights is ZAR $17,341, US $1,628.60.

With the airport in Nelspruit quite a distance, we plan to have Okee Dokee pick us up at 2:30 pm (14:30). With road construction and Friday afternoon traffic, an early start is necessary.  Plus, there’s a two hour time change from South Africa to Morocco. Our arrival will feel as if it is 5:35 pm (17:35) to us when we finally arrive.

Including picking up our baggage in Marrakesh, going through immigration and customs, and the drive to our rental home, we’re estimating an additional two hours. In total, we’ll be traveling for 29 hours. That is if there are no delays and/or missed flights due to delays. There have been substantial delays on most of our flights thus far. We shall see how it goes.

You may ask, “Why are we going to Cairo, Egypt in order to get to Morocco?”

As you can see, Morocco borders Algeria in the upper left, and yet Egypt is located in the upper right of Africa.

In a perfect world, we’d fly from South Africa at the southern tip of the map, directly to Morocco. Nope. Not possible, unless one charters a private plane, an option definitely out of our budget.

When we began the planning of spending almost a year in Africa, we knew getting to Morocco was challenging.  In every case in our planning, we’ve checked flights in advance of committing to the rental of a property.

The key to making this lengthy travel time bearable will be our ability to sleep for a few hours on the flight during the night, on the eight-hour leg from Johannesburg to Cairo.

Neither of us is good at sleeping sitting up. Neither of us naps during the day, naps in the car, or doze while watching a show or movie. When we’re tired, we go to bed. We can only hope that the flight isn’t crowded (we expect it will be) and we can find a way to sleep. If we don’t, we’ll have a tough next day. But, in the realm of things, a day after we arrive, we’ll be rested and it will all be behind us.

Two and a half months later, when we leave Morocco for Madeira, we’ll have a much shorter flight, under three hours. Madeira is located off the coast of Portugal which is shown on the above map as above and, to the left of Morocco.

On the flights to Morocco, we’ll have to collect our baggage up to four times, going through customs twice. This is a daunting task even with our greatly reduced load. With everything we own in two large suitcases, two medium bags, two laptop bags, and one duffel bag, this isn’t easy. 

Tom does most of the hard work due to my bad shoulder, especially when none of the airports have the “tubes” in which to gain access both on and off the planes. As a result, he ends up hauling a huge amount of the carry on load up the long and steep flights of steps from the tarmac to the plane. He dreads this part. I dread this part for him.

There it is, folks. This nomadic life we live is not always easy. However, once we get through the hard parts, we relax, making a concerted effort not to worry or anticipate problems. Instead, we do everything we possibly can do, over which we have do have control.

The rest, over which we have no control? We have to leave it to chance, hoping and praying for a safe transition, choosing not to worry while we revel in our remaining 29 days in Marloth Park.

The inconveniences? Well, they go with the territory.

Note: Check back tomorrow for photos and stories of the new digs we’re moving into for the weekend, a luxury vacation home! Can’t wait!

A grand solitary visitor…Planning our upcoming departure…A goal of low stress travel…A funny photo…

Yesterday morning while writing on the veranda, I heard a “thump, thump” and alerted Tom, to look up, and once again, we had the most exciting visitor, a solitary giraffe. We’d assumed he’d stopped to munch on the treetops enabling us to take some photos. Alas, he dashed out of the yard so fast that we weren’t able to take another photo. It was the third time we’ve had giraffes in our yard. Heavenly.

It’s hard to believe that in 30 days, we’ll be leaving South Africa, heading to Marrakesh, Morocco, where we’ll live for 2½ months. Unquestionably, it won’t be easy to leave Marloth Park, to say goodbye to all of our friends both human and animals. 

These three baby warthogs, our familiar “Three Little Pigs” anxiously needed some liquid sustenance from mom after we shared some pellets with them.  Thirsty, they nursed with the one shown sucking a nipple from behind her butt.  We laughed at this tender sight.

Life in the bush with all of its challenges provided us both with a unique experience, one we’ll treasure forever.  But, “moving on” is the lifestyle choice we’ve made and we do so with excitement and anticipation of that which is yet to come. We have absolutely no regrets. 

On our way out to dinner last night at dusk. Wildebeest and zebra, who often hang out together.

The preparations to move on aren’t overwhelming by any means, but must be accomplished in an orderly and concise manner. Our motto remains forefront in our minds, “Wafting through our worldwide travels with ease, joy, and simplicity.” 

Stringent advance planning results in lower levels of stress, always our objective. Besides, the airlines create enough problems of their own without us adding more due to a lack of careful planning. 

We diligently prepare for the following, none of which is particularly time-consuming or difficult once the flights have been booked:

  • Flight arrangements/baggage restrictions
  • Packing, while complying with all baggage restrictions
  • Airport transportation arrangements at both ends, including the necessity of going to an ATM at the final destination for cash in the local currency
  • Online discussions with the owner/property manager to ensure everything we need upon arrival will be awaiting us: access/keys to the property, bedding, towels, bar soap, toilet paper, and bottled water. We require enough basic “hotel” supplies to get us through the first several days.
  • How do we arrange for meals and snacks as we settle in? Assessing nearby restaurants and grocery stores with a ready means of transportation.
  • Visa requirements. All of our previous visa requirements have been met at immigration upon entry to our final destinations with the exception of Belize, which required renewal every 30 days. Morocco doesn’t require a visa for US citizens entering the country for under 90 days. We’ll be staying for 75 days.   

Having booked our flight from Johannesburg to Morocco, a convoluted red-eye mess of multiple stops and layovers, today we’ll book the short flight from Mpumalanga/Nelspruit to Johannesburg, a portion of the flight that must be booked separately.

Tomorrow, we’ll share the details of the complicated and the only means of getting to Morocco from South Africa. It’s not comparable to the US, Europe, and other parts of the world where one can book a single flight from one big city to another big city.

It’s another scorcher today. We only lasted five hours on the veranda seeing no less the four Warthog families.  Plus, we had about 25 Helmeted Guinea-fowls hanging out with the warthogs. Lots of laughing over all of their playful antics. 

Tonight, we’re off to a birthday party in Marloth Park. Should be fun!

Happy day to all.