A special photo…A memorable couple long ago…An inspiration to continue on…A year ago, a little village in Toscana…

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Need I say, I went nuts when we saw these huge hanging Angel’s Trumpets, while on a drive a few days ago? As Tom maneuvered through a narrow winding road, I squealed when I saw these, hollering, “Stop!  Back up!” The road was too narrow for me to get out of the car so I took this photo with the window down. Wow!

It was the halfway mark of our time in Madeira as we mentioned in our yesterday’s heading. It’s hard for us to believe that we’re on the downhill now of living in this wonderful home in Campanario on this exquisite island.

At a distance, we saw a boat. Could it be a local fisherman?

We’ve determined that it usually takes about a month for us to decide if we’d ever considered returning to a location. As for having the time to return to a location, that in itself is a question for us to consider. There’s so much world left to see.

The shoreline is exquisite around the island. We wondered how the residents of the homes on this cliff could possibly get to their houses. That would be a fun outing to tackle.

We’ve contemplated that, down the road, perhaps we’ll choose four favorite locations and revisit them throughout the year at the same “perfect weather” times of the year, for example; South Africa during their winter months of June, July, and August. We were there during December, January, and February when it was a scorcher. 

Another creek under a bridge.

In years to come, in a perfect world, I could easily spend half of the year in Marloth Park, South Africa, and the other half here in Madeira. But, speaking of “half’s,” my “other half” would have to be on board. At this point, he can’t contemplate such a plan and I totally agree with him when so much excitement awaits us.

Yesterday, on our way to the supermarket, a cloud cover created this amazing view.

It’s not that I’m thinking of slowing down. By no means! As the perpetual dreamer and romantic, my mind tends to get ahead of me and I love to plan “way ahead.” Let’s face it, I’m 66 years old. Tom is 61. At some point, we’ll run out of steam.

However, when we were on our first and favorite cruise on the Celebrity Century on our way through the Panama Canal, one night an older couple sitting next to us, joyfully told us their stories of traveling the world, living in Africa, going on safari, and seeing much of the world.

As it began to rain, little puffs of clouds dotted the hills. 

We were both in awe as they excitedly told one exciting story after another. They were in their 90’s and still traveling! At this point, we were on our first foray outside the US at the beginning of our journey together, although both of us had traveled internationally before we met.

We had only a few stories to share with the delightful elderly couple and we encouraged them to go on and on.  With a captive audience, they enjoyed retelling their tales easily recalling details with each of them with a sharp memory, still intact after all their years.

It’s always interesting to see the homes nestled in the hills as shown here.

They inspired us and continue to do so as our journey continues. It’s hard to believe that we spoke to that couple in January 2013, a mere 18 months ago. How we’ve changed! We’ve learned so much. 

Another view of the valley on our way to the supermarket.

Our learning curve is literally at the “tip of the iceberg” based on the parts of the world we’ve already visited.  There’s so much more to learn. However, as experienced as we think we are now, it’s nothing compared to where we’ll be in a few years.

Mud running in a creek in Ribeira Brava.

I must admit that this traveling business has been a huge boon for our memory as has a strict diet which, BTW, Tom is finally following with me. He gave up the sweets, gluten, and starch a few days ago on his own, without prodding from me. 

His motivation is more inclined toward his frugal nature. He wants to fit into the clothes he already has and not have to replace everything in larger sizes.

It was cloudy yesterday, but a ray of sunlight reflected in the area to the left-center of this photo creating a pretty scene. Utility lines often obstruct our photos. With modern conveniences in Madeira, they are impossible to avoid.

Whatever his motivation, I’m happy. It means we’ll have more time together, he won’t have trouble hauling our bags and the quality of his life will be greatly improved. I can’t guarantee he’ll do this forever but for now, I’m thrilled. All I want is for him to be healthy so we can continue this life together for as long as possible.

Maybe we’ll be fortunate with good health to be able to continue our journey well into our 90’s like the couple on the Celebrity Century.  In any case, if we cannot, we’ll strive to find a joyful alternative of staying in one place for longer periods, like six months in Marloth Park???  With Ms. Warthog at our door each morning or Mr. Kudu stopping by the veranda for some pellets?  Heaven on earth.
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Photo from one year ago, June 24, 2013:

This restaurant was located in the town of Benabbio, Tuscany, Italy, and was the closest to us, a 30-minute drive on the treacherous roads from our home in Boveglio. Although the food was wonderful and the prices fair, neither of us felt safe driving back at night in the dark, especially if Tom had a beer or two with the crazy drivers whipping around the road. As a result, we seldom dined out while living in the remote mountain village of Boveglio. We learned a valuable lesson after we left Boveglio…that we shouldn’t live in such remote locations, especially where no spoke English was spoken, adding to our sense of isolation. Although, once we got into a routine, we ended up enjoying the 75-day stay. For details of that date, please click here.

Honey Badgers…Looking back three months ago….A tribute to animal intelligence…

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This video, presented by  Brian Jones and Africa Geographic is one of the most amazing examples of animal intelligence that we’ve seen without any training by humans. We were fortunate to see these Honey Badgers when we visited the Moholoholo Rehabilitation Center only three months ago. Last night this video appeared on my Facebook homepage.

While visiting the Moholoholo Rehabilitation Centre we were impressed by the opportunities for veterinarians, students, and volunteers whose passion revolves around wildlife. If you know of somehow who could benefit from this program, please refer them to this link where there is a wealth of information about the student and volunteer educational program. What an ideal segue into wildlife for future veterinarians! 

Our photo from this January while we visited the Moholoholo Rehabilitation Centre in Hoedspruit, South Africa, a day we’ll always remember. 
Last night, as I gave Facebook one last look before heading to bed, I noticed this video had been posted on my home page by Africa Geographic, one of my favorite “likes.” (Feel free to “friend me.” I’m easily found by my email address:  jessicablyman@gmail.com).
When I clicked on this video about these two Honey Badgers, we both watched with bated breath. After less than 15 seconds into the video, Tom says, “These are the Honey Badgers we saw at Moholoholo Rehabilitation Centre when we traveled to Blyde River Canyon (which we’d coincidentally mentioned in yesterday’s post).
We realized that the familiar voice was that of the renowned Brian Jones, manager of the facility and world naturalist and advocate for saving the rhinos. While we visited the facility, Brian spoke to the group of visitors in a classroom environment where we were mesmerized by his knowledge and passion for wildlife.
On January 19, 2014, we wrote a story with several photos of our visit to Moholoholo Rehabilitation Centre which was without a doubt, a memorable experiences in many ways as shown in our photos; seeing these same Honey Badgers, interacting with a Cheetah, Vultures, and other animals as shown in our post. If you’d like to review those photos, please click on this link below:
Retracing our steps from such a short time ago has made us realize how little time we actually had to learn about the in-depth characteristics of many of the wildlife we’ve seen in our travels.
It was only while living in Marloth Park for a full three months that we had the glorious opportunity to live amongst the wildlife, observing and studying their behaviors, often on a daily basis, that we actually felt we had a chance to get to know them to some degree.
As for Morocco over the past 24 hours, we had quite a day and night. Before noon each day, Adil stops by to see if we’d like Madame Zahra to cook our dinner, giving her ample time to shop and prepare our dinner. 
The wet floors of the souks required walking with caution as we made our way to a restaurant for dinner.
Yesterday, we declined, after decided to stay in all weekend due to the huge tourist crowd in the souk due to spring break and Easter weekend. Itching to get out, we didn’t give our idea of declining dinner a second thought until a wild rainstorm ensued in the afternoon. 
Lighting and thunder flashed through the air as the pelting rain poured into the riad’s open courtyard. Keeping in mind that riads are built and furnished with the possibility of rain, the house suffered no ill effects. But, when we wanted to go to the bathroom or to refill our iced tea, we had to carefully walk around the edges of the courtyard to avoid getting wet while in the house.
This reminded us of the outdoor living room in the house in Kenya where we lived for three months from September 1, 2013, to November 20, 2013, where we had nowhere to go during rainstorms, other than by moving the outdoor furniture out of the way of the incoming rain to avoid getting wet.
Staying in the salon all day, we waited for the rain to subside so we could leave to go out to dinner. Rain pours into the slats in the souk’s roof leaving the shop owners no alternative but to cover their wares in huge plastic sheets.
By dinnertime, we decided we may as well head out. It appeared the rain would continue well into the evening.  Putting on our hooded jackets, we walked erratically through the souk in a feeble attempt to avoid huge puddles, stepping on grates, and the splashing from the fast-moving motorbikes. 
It was almost an athletic event, as we wove in and out rapidly making our way to the closest restaurant on our favorites list, Arabe. Holding hands as we always do when walking through the souk, watching each step over slippery surfaces, we made it up and back without incident.
Without the opportunity to cook our own meals based on the conditions of the rental, yesterday was a perfect example of a time it was more difficult. We’d never chose to go out on a night when the pouring rain, thunder, and lightning were at full force.
All in all, we made it, after a pleasant dinner returning none the worse for the wear. Tom turned on the little heater in the salon, we bundled up, staying warm as we watched a few of our shows. 
Again, the crowing rooster awoke me at 5:00 am along with the call-to-prayer. Hearing them both at the same time made me chuckle over the irony. In Boveglio Italy, in only a matter of two nights, we adapted to the sound of the bell tower ringing twice an hour. Here, I haven’t yet adapted to the crowing of the rooster. Go figure.
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No photos were posted from one year ago today, April 22, 2013, but the post included a warning from the captain of the ship we were on at the time. 
On occasion, in the past, we didn’t post any photos on some days.  Now, we do so each and every day. On this date a year ago, our ship made a detour to drop off an ill passenger in Bermuda. It was due to this detour that our ship, the Norwegian Epic, ending up in the eye of a storm lasting for three days as told in tomorrow’s year ago story. Please check back tomorrow. For details of the written post for April 22, 2013, with the captain’s warning, please click here.

An unreal story we never told from our time in South Africa….Newspaper story we posted one year ago today…

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Still wanting to post photos after our “staying in” weekend, we walked the steep steps to the rooftop for the following shots. That’s our laundry on the clothesline which Madame washes every few days.

We hope all of our Easter observing readers had a wonderful day.  Staying indoors due to the crowds, we enjoyed another excellent Madame Zahra made Moroccan dinner minus the spices. After dinner we watched another good good movie, “The Railway Man,” worth viewing.

Hopefully today, the spring break and Easter weekend crowds will thin out and we’ll head out to the souk and Big Square for a hearty much-needed walk and dinner at one of our few favorite restaurants. We’ve exhausted all our dining options in the Medina serving non-spicy foods that Tom will eat, although I continue to order an occasional spicy tagine.

The newer model washer is located in a closet on the rooftop which we hadn’t noticed until yesterday.

As for the story we never told of a situation that occurred in South Africa, it’s not an uncommon story in certain parts of the world. Why didn’t we tell the story at that time? I suppose, we didn’t feel comfortable sharing anything negative about a country we love in so many ways while we were living there.

As time has passed, we’ve come to realize that it’s important to share this story for other travelers should they encounter similar circumstances along the way. Please understand, the telling of this story in no way diminishes our views of the wonders of South Africa or its people. 

Of the dozens of countries we’ve visited thus far, South Africa will remain in our hearts forever, which we long to visit again someday in our travels. This story is not a reflection of the people of South Africa in general, only a fraction of its society that angers and frustrates its countrymen as it did us. Here we go!

It was a beautiful day yesterday, although so windy that the plants inside the courtyard two floors below were moving in the wind.

It was January 18, 2014.  We were driving a rental car, returning from our delightful three-day stay at the Blyde River Canyon Lodge in the Blyde River area of Limpopo, South Africa. We’d had a glorious three days, but we were equally excited to return to Marloth Park to see the animals and our friends.  What a fabulous feeling, leaving one amazing place to return to an even more amazing place. We were on Cloud 9 to say the least. 

First, we were on our way to the airport in Nelspruit to return the rental car after one month’s use when the rental car company refused to extend our contract for the same rate they had charged for the first month. 

Look at that blue sky!

As a result, we decided, rather than sign up for a similar deal at another rental car company, we’d to have Okee Dokee drive us around for our remaining time in Marloth Park.  She’d captured our hearts and we decided that we’d rather put money in her pocket than a rental car company with its outrageous fees. 

We’d coordinated the trip to Blyde River to coincide with the date we were required to return the rental car. We began the drive down the mountain to make our way to the airport where Okee Dokee would meet us for the 90 minute drive back to Marloth Park. 

The household staff regularly water to plants on the rooftop as well as in the courtyard.

About an hour out of Blyde River Canyon, Tom was moving along the well-paved roads at a good clip, when suddenly a policeman stepped out onto the road signaling us to stop.

What could possibly be wrong? The first thought that entered my mind was the possibility of a customary passport check. Tom thought otherwise, suspicious that we were being stopped at the foot of a long hill where many lowering speed limit signs were posted in rapid succession.

Tom was hanging out with me on the rooftop as I shot these photos.

Tom immediately handed him our passports, waiting to see what he wanted. The cop kept asking, “When is your flight?” The reason for this question, Tom surmised, was to determine how desperate we were, the shorter the time to our flight, the more it was going to “cost us.”

Tom explained we didn’t have to fly anywhere that day and we were staying in South Africa until February 28th. Again, the cop asked, “What time is your flight?” 

Holding the camera over the high wall of the rooftop (over my head) I shot this photo of the sheltered roof of a riad next door.

When again, Tom explained that we had no flight to catch, he cop said we were being “ticketed” for speeding without providing any specifics. He had no ticket book in hand.

He proceed to explain that we’d have to go back to the nearest town to the police station to pay the fine. Still, no ticket was presented. The drive back to that town was 45 minutes each way and there was no way in the world we were going back there. 

A man in his gazebo on the roof of an adjoining house.

Okee Dokee was already on her way from Marloth Park to pick us up at the airport. Even if she hadn’t been, there was still no way we were going to drive an extra 90 minutes, spending what may have proved to been several hours in order to pay an arbitrary fine.

But, we also knew there was no way were we taking the risk of getting into a verbal altercation with the cop which could potentially get us arrested.

The little grill Madame uses when she cooks the grilled chicken on the roof.  We seldom request it since we don’t want her to have to go up there to cook.

Diplomatically, I interjected, “What would it take to avoid us going back to the police station in Hoedspruit?”

The cop paused for only a second, making a feeble attempt to make it appear as if he had no plan in mind, “Four hundred Rand,” he blurts out.

I nudged Tom whispering, “Give him the 400 Rand and let’s get out of here!”

Tom pulled out the bills while I asked facetiously, “Can we have a receipt to prove we’ve paid?”

We also discovered the water storage tanks which are hooked up to the city water supply.  We use bottled water for drinking and brushing our teeth.

The cop grumbled, “No receipt!” 

Tom was furious. It wasn’t the amount of money at US $38.09 that frosted him. It was the fact that it was a bribe. Plain and simple. 

Slowly, he pulled out back onto the road as I watched the cop put the money in his pocket his eye on us  as we drive away, perhaps looking for another “supposed” infraction.

The hot water heater is also located in a closet on the rooftop level.

When we retold this story to our Marloth Park friends, they said we should have negotiated the 400 rand down to 200 rand. But, under the circumstances, being our first “bribery” experience, we’d decided to not push our luck and be done with it. 

With this experience behind us, would we act any differently if this happened again? I don’t think so. The possibility of being arrested in a foreign county is frightening enough. 

We wished we could see over the tall wall.

Was Tom speeding?  Possibly, a small amount over the speed limit as a result of coming down the steep road.  Is that an excuse? Not at all. Were we handed a paper ticket to pay on the spot, we’d have put our tail between our legs and paid, lesson learned. 

None of us know what situations we’ll encounter when traveling outside our home country or at times, in our home country. There are many risks that we both take seriously every time we walk out the door. 

This decorator item is on the wall in the landing of the third floor.

I no longer carry a purse or wallet, keeping only a lipstick in my pocket. Tom secures his wallet with little cash in zipped and hard to reach pockets.  We each have our own credit cards should one of us be ripped off, we’d still have credit cards we can use while others were being replaced.

Each time we head out, we’re on alert for potential situations such as this. We realize and suspect that had Tom not been speeding, we could easily have been stopped anyway when no evidence of speeding was presented to us.

The steps on this brick stairway from the third to the second floor, are uneven with many of them very deep.  It surprises us how Madame Zahra easily navigates them several times each day when I gingerly make my way down.

From that point on we observed similar police “setups” at the foot of every hill, wondering who’d be their next target. Not us. We crawled the rest of the way.

So, there’s our first bribery story. It may not be our last. We carry on with the hope that we can avoid these types of situations in the future. Although, we accept the fact that nothing we can ever do or plan will make us exempt from experiencing situations such as this.

Happy Monday to all. Have a good day!

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Photo from one year ago today, April 21, 2013:

All these prior photos were taken with the inexpensive Samsung camera resulting in less than ideal photos. This was the view overlooking one of the dining areas on the Norwegian Epic a few days before the storm. For details of the story from that date, please click here.

The story we posted one year ago today:

http://www.chanvillager.com/news/world-travelers-living-the-dream/article_8dbde70d-1b61-5488-b13f-7077dc4251b6.html#user-comment-area

Busy day…One more trip to Komatipoort, after all..Six days and counting…A little whining is in order…

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Baby warthog, standing by the braai. “What’s on the menu?” he inquires. “Pellets, I hope!”

One week from today, at 5:45 am, after a full night of flying, we’ll be getting off the plane in Cairo, Egypt for a three and a half hour layover until we board another plane to Casablanca, Morocco for another six-hour flight with almost a two-hour layover. Then another flight to Marrakesh, arriving at 3:35 pm.”

I can only hope we’ll have managed to get enough sleep during the eight-hour red-eye to avoid feeling awful. Oh, we can’t stay up all night as well as we were able when younger.

Tom is fussing as the time to depart nears, today only six days away; the 29 hours from leaving this house to arriving in Marrakesh; waiting times at the various airports; handling our luggage at every layover at least three times; the actual time on the flights, the longest eight hours, next six hours, and two for shorter periods.

Mom and four babies eating the pellets we left for the zebra, whom we hope will soon reappear. We’d left a few carrots for him also, but this group had no interest in the carrots.

Whether I’m Clive, the Ostrich, with my head in the sand, I prefer not to worry, my only concern being a safe arrival. Between us, we have all the possible worries covered. Good grief. We don’t like this part.

As a matter of fact, this upcoming week is the hardest part of our travels. This time, we have the added element of going to the little house to pack everything still there to bring here to the African Reunion House to begin the painful process of packing it all together.

With our upcoming “goodbye party” on Monday at 5:00 pm, we’ve postponed the dreadful job of clearing our stuff from the little house until Tuesday morning. If we picked it all up now, we’d have our stuff strewn all over the main floor, not a pretty sight for a dinner party. Tuesday, it will be. 

Good thing I no longer drink alcohol (due to the high sugar content) or I may have been agonizing with a hangover, a common occurrence in my old days even after only a few glasses of red wine. Tom, on the other hand, never suffers after a party if he imbibes in a few too many, a rare occurrence in itself.

I told Tom that if warthogs had been our only visitors in the three months in Marloth Park, I’d have been happy.  As a young child, I had an imaginary character with me at all times, “Piggy.” At five years old, as we drove across the US from California to Boston, Massachusetts to visit my beloved grandmother, my mother made my father stop on the highway in Sweetwater, Texas, to let “Piggy” out of the car. It was time for me to grow up. I cried all the way to Boston. This memory, emblazoned in mind 60 years later, left me fascinated with pigs. 

In a perfect world, we’d take all of this in our stride. But, let’s face it. We’ve taken quite a lot in our stride and this isn’t it. If Tom wasn’t feeling angst-ridden, I’d be fine. No matter what I say or do, I can’t seem to help lessen his frustration that there was no such thing as a direct flight from Johannesburg to Marrakesh.

So there it is. Our temporary, albeit, frustrating state of being over the next week, a price we pay for choosing this otherwise glorious life. There’s no “free lunch.” We can only find comfort in the reality that a week from tonight, we’ll be situated (most likely not totally unpacked) in our new home, called Dar Aicha, with Madame Zahra preparing and serving us our first meal.

I find comfort in recalling our painstaking over 24 hours travel time to Kenya from Italy, arriving in Mombasa at 6:00 am then boarding a rickety van to cross the river on a ferry and drive over an hour to Diani Beach to our awaiting home. We rested for a few hours, later heading out to the grocery shop. 

I remember how tired, but excited we were, defraying the feelings of exhaustion. Hopefully, these 29 hours won’t be much different and, after a good night’s sleep, the next day we’ll head to a grocery store for snacks. It should be easier that we don’t have to shop and cook when we arrive.

Late yesterday afternoon we discovered this insect which is over 4 inches, 10.6 cm long.

Now, getting back to the moment, my goal over the next several days is to stay calm while savoring our last days in Marloth Park. With the pelting rain over the last few days, the only visitors we’ve had is the skinny warthog mom with four fast-maturing babies. The larger animals stay under cover during the heavy rains. 

Last night, before dinner, we were driven indoors when it was too wet on the veranda to stay outside. We hunkered down in the cooled-down bedroom, watched a weird, yet the well-acted movie, “Her,” with the last third left to finish tonight. 

Overall, we’re good, with the enthusiastic anticipation of our upcoming dinner party on Monday night and a quiet weekend at home in the African Reunion House, a blessing until we leave.  Perhaps, more visitors will come by now that the rain has stopped. 

In the meanwhile, we wait for Mr. Tree Frog to return for a fifth time to his favorite perch on the rafters of the veranda. I heard some croaking in our immediate area on the veranda as I write this, wondering if it’s him.

I realize that all the photos of Mr. Tree Frog look-alike. But this was taken at 6:00 pm yesterday after his fourth return after leaving for 12 to 24 hours over the past week. His continued return visits have been a source of curiosity for us.

Soon, Okee Dokee will arrive to take me to Komatipoort for groceries for the upcoming party. Had we not arranged the party, we’d have had plenty of food to get us through the next several days while dining out a few times. But, an opportunity to say “thank you” to more of our local friends supersedes our desire for “easy.”

It’s the simple things that have made life in Marloth Park amazing and memorable and we hope to continue to embrace every moment of our remaining time in its midst.

Today, another year older…Acceptance…Fulfilling a lifelong dream…A new visitor came to call…A previous visitor returned…

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Last night during our quiet dinner party for four on the veranda at the African Reunion House, we heard a sound in the distance. Moments later, we heard the “thump, thump” sound of hooves. Less then 20 feet, 6 meters, from us stood this adorable zebra.  Grabbing pellets and carrots, we all had an opportunity to interact with him, unable to wipe the smiles off of our faces. Without a doubt, he’ll be back.

Finally, I’ve begun to accept that we’re leaving South Africa, with the knowledge that we’ll still be on the continent of Africa for almost three more months. 

Our first zebra visitor at the African Reunion House was welcomed with open arms.

As a young girl, I dreamed of Africa hoping that someday this dream would be realized. At 17, ready to graduate high school, I longed to join the Peace Corps. Still underage, my mother refused to let me go. But, here I am today, enriched and fulfilled after spending the past almost six months in Africa with more time to be savored in the exotic Morocco, a world away from Marloth Park. 

Our friend Kathy got up close and personal with him, hand feeding him pellets. As a hostess gift for our dinner gathering, Kathy and Linda brought us a big bag of pellets, instead of the usual wine, flowers or candy. Nothing could have been more appropriate when we were running low. How did they know we needed pellets?

Almost 50 years is a long time to carry around a dream. Why was it so long in coming? Life. Kids. Work. Responsibilities. Time. Money. All of these.

Today, on my 66th birthday, I can only smile feeling grateful in many ways; to my husband for making this adventure possible and for his willingness to spread his wings to leave a lifetime of comfort and familiarity; to our family for accepting our decision to leave Minnesota and the US; to our friends for graciously supporting our decision; for our health which, without it, none of this would have been possible; and for the new friends we’ve made along the way that have opened their homes and hearts to us.

Tom feeding the visiting Zebra carrots.  I didn’t care if we ran out of carrots and couldn’t make our usual coleslaw.   

Gee, this sounds like an Academy Awards acceptance speech! However, birthdays, after age 60 years, seem to revolve around acceptance. It includes acceptance of changes in ourselves; the changes in our health, our bodies, our memory, our energy level and most of all, our motivation. 

One might think it’s just “too much work” to travel to Africa; the required inoculations; the malaria pills; the risk of illness, injury, disease; the necessity to become tolerant of the heat and humidity often with no air conditioning; dealing with the fears of snakes and insects; accepting the lengthy travel time and, the daunting task of finding the best place to live.

He was actually much taller than he appears in these photos. We were standing on the edge of the veranda while he was standing in a lower spot in the bush. I was so excited I paid no attention to my camera settings, resulting in the darkened shot.

All of these reasons and more may leave a prospective traveler with the sense that it’s just too much trouble to travel to Africa. Amid all of these reasons, somehow, we got ourselves here. 

Tom has surprised me. I thought he’d never want to visit Africa. And when we lived outside on that veranda in Kenya, not by choice but by necessity, in the blistering heat and drenching humidity, with the biting insects, with the almost daily power outages, he somehow made it through with dignity and grace. 

Kathy’s hand reaching out to feed him a piece of carrot that he loved.

And I, too, made it through, albeit with my raging fear of centipedes, sweating in the heat, knowing that complaining served no purpose, especially when I was the one that wanted to go to Africa.

And now, these past almost three months, outdoors on the veranda no less than 15 hours a day, often in the heat and humidity, at times with biting insects and snakes, yes and snakes, we haven’t felt it was a struggle.  Acceptance. It kicked in almost three months ago, when they came to see us. The animals. It came to us almost six months ago, when we arrived in Kenya, knowing a safari in the Masai Mara was imminent.

The discomfort wafted away, replaced by something magical, the likes of which neither of us has ever known and most likely, will never know again. The animals. The people. The environment. Amazing.

Mr. Tree Frog was gone during dinner last night, but reappeared for the fourth time this morning. We can’t figure out why he likes this particular spot. Most likely, he loves to eat and drink, perhaps swim in the pool, only to return to this exact spot. I looked for information on tree frog behavior, unable to find an explanation.

We’ve been given a gift by Louise and Danie by completing our remaining time in Marloth Park in the luxurious African Reunion House by, a gift we couldn’t turn down. Each day more and more visitors stop by as if welcoming us in their area, their home in the bush. 

With more visitors coming here, we have no reason to return to the little house, other than to stop over on Monday, pack all of our belongings to bring it all to one house to pack for the upcoming trip to Morocco next Friday.

We can now say goodbye, knowing that when and if our health and time is right, we can return to Marloth Park, perhaps to go on safari again in the Masai Mara, Kenya, to finally see Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe and to travel to Rwanda to see the Gorillas and to once again embrace Africa and its wonders.

And, if for one reason or another we cannot return, we’ll always hold the memories of our time in Africa deep within our hearts, our minds, and our spirits.

Today, I celebrate my birthday, not as one more year of this life passing by. Instead, I celebrate the acceptance for all that I’ve loved, for all that I’ve learned, and for all that is yet to come. 

A tough night…A rainy day…It’s not always easy…Spider bites!…

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Tom, comfortably situated in the usual position reviewing his Ancestry.com files, a daily occurrence. Later in the day, he checks the stock market when it opens here at 4:30 pm.

On Tuesday night when I crawled into bed, a spider jumped into the air, landing on the back of my calf close to my ankle, biting me. Immediately, I washed the area and placed a plastic bag with ice on the spot.

The chicken wire fence is necessary to keep the Monkeys out of the house. If they enter, they are horribly destructive and poop everywhere, a veritable fiasco.

Although it stung like crazy, it didn’t seem to swell more than a mosquito bite so I didn’t give it much thought and went to sleep. Upon awakening, it was simply an annoying itch with a bit of a stinging sensation. More ice and I’d be done with it.

Tom’s view of the bush today in the rain from the upper-level veranda at the African Reunion House.

Last night when I went to bed, the itching and discomfort increased but still no major swelling. Tired, I went to sleep. Around 1:30 am I awoke to crazy itching in my left elbow and I mean crazy. I could have bit my arm off.  Jumping out of bed I looked for and found a first aid kit. But nothing inside the kit could alleviate that degree of itching. 

Louise and Danie brought us a power reel when we’d mentioned that we’d moved upstairs away from the rain to work on our laptops. As we’ve traveled, Tom has figured out the use of our various adapters, converters, and power strips, handling all the recharging duties each day.

Of course, at the same time, the back-of-the-ankle spider bite was also itching. like crazy. Apparently, in my sleep, another such or similar spider bit me on my elbow. It was definitely not a mosquito bite due to the pain and itching. Was I worried? Not at all. I just wanted to sleep.

The last of the four bedrooms we’ve shown at the African Reunion House. This particular room left us in a quandary as to what bedroom to chose when we moved in on Sunday.  We chose the bedroom shown previously, with its convenience on the main floor. Isn’t that what most seniors would do?

I took a bag of ice to bed, moving it back and forth between the two bites. After a few minutes of icing, it dawned on me to slug down a Tylenol PM which contains Diphenhydramine, an antihistamine that diminishes itching and causes drowsiness. Forty minutes later I was in a fitful state of sleep, dreaming of itching. Both bites are better today.

The bedroom, as in the case of the other three, is beautifully decorated with the finest furnishings and amenities. Note the double sinks and corner soaking tub.

We’re living in the bush. I accept this, reminding myself the entire time I was fussing. But no one no matter how long they’ve lived here is exempt from occasional annoyances such as this. In some cases, a sting or a bite is more severe and requires medical care. I’m grateful that was not the case for me.

These two lounging chairs provide a private seating area for guests sharing the house with others.

This morning, we’re situated on the second-floor veranda at the African Reunion House. It’s raining too hard to sit on the first-floor veranda with all of our power cords. Up here, it’s comfortable and dry. 

We’ve yet to use this upper-level living room. We’ve discovered that living rooms in general are not important to most African homeowners when they build a house. They prefer to spend most of their free time outdoors experiencing nature, rather than indoors watching TV or playing video games.

They’ll be no visitors today. They too, prefer to be sheltered from the rain. This is the one place we’ve visited in the world thus far that we welcome the rain which is vital to growing more abundant vegetation for the animals. Also, the clouds and rain create a welcomed coolness compared to the usual sunny and humid heat typical in Africa’s summer months. 

A renowned local artist painted this picture for Louise and Danie, specifically for this house.

All that I say here is moot, based on my aching heart, knowing that in 15 days we’ll be leaving. No, I won’t miss the snakes and poisonous insects. But, they are such a small part of life in Marloth Park. 

This was the second piece of art painted by the renowned local artist.
As we written over the past two and a half months, life here feels comparable to having an “E” ticket to Disneyland (for those of us who remember). The options for thrills and excitement are endless. One only needs to glance around to find an interesting “attraction” to fill the heart with joy, curiosity, and wonder.
This handcrafted art piece is more beautiful in person, in its many details.

Hunkered down for the day, we are hopeful that tomorrow will be dry by late afternoon for our upcoming final game drive and bush braai in Kruger National Park neither of which are fruitful in the pouring rain.

The male version of the above artwork, equally appealing to the eye.

May your day be filled with joy, curiosity, and wonder as you embrace your surroundings, however cold, hot, snowy, or rainy as we attempt to do the same in ours.

It pays to go outside early in the morning…

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This mom was looking out for her baby to the right as we watched from the road in front of African Reunion House early this morning.

It was 5:45 am and after our another great night’s sleep at African Reunion House, we were both awake and ready to get outdoors. The sun was up, the sounds of the birds wafted through the air, and nature was calling to us.

Shaded by dense vegetation and early morning sun hidden behind the trees, we weren’t able to get closer for better shots. Plus, giraffes are so tall, one can’t get too close in order to get a good photo.

I was in the other bedroom where I shower and dress to hear Tom yell out to me, “Giraffes! Hurry!”

This is the surprise room set among the treetops in African Reunion House, a fully screened Jacuzzi room on the second level. The temperature in this room is surprisingly about 20% less than the outdoor temperature. The surprise room is located off one of the two upstairs bedrooms, shown in the photos below.
One can imagine the charm of a glass of wine, the candles lit, surrounded by the sounds of nature while soaking in the relaxation of the whirling jets of warm water. Hum…seems like this may be a perfect end to Valentine’s night after the game drive and bush braai!

“Grab the camera!” I yelled back as I hurriedly threw on shorts and shoes, still in my sleep tee shirt. We were out the door in less than a minute.

One of the two upstairs bedrooms, this is the room off of which the surprise room is located which also includes an en suite bathroom with a double shower.

Tom was standing in the doorway between the house and the veranda checking out the status of the tree frog, still hanging out on a beam in the ceiling. He looked out toward the road to see a tail and tall legs.

This beautiful “nguni,” cow rug sets the theme of the room.

Running out the front door, we gasped when we saw them, four of them, nibbling on the treetops, on the road outside the house. We never cease to be amazed nor do the residents we’ve met in Marloth Park. No matter how long they’ve lived here they never stop feeling their hearts pound with excitement when they see the majestic giraffes, especially in their neighborhood.

Another view of that exquisite bedroom off of the surprise room upstairs.  The décor is lovely. Notice the matching vanity seat on the left under the built-in vanity table and the items on the bed.  An elegant African theme followed through the entire house.

And this morning we were given the treat to see them at African Reunion House reminding us when we first arrived at the little house that 12 giraffes came down the driveway to visit. Click here for the link. It was December 14th, two weeks after we’d arrived in Marloth Park, a day we’ll always remember. And four of them came another time. And one came alone racing through the yard on a mission.

Only Danie would think of placing a spigot inside of a tree.  Clever! Befitting!

This morning, although not as close as our past experiences, the excitement was palpable, our sensible caution, preventing us from getting too close, as we carefully approached the four giraffes this morning. Giraffes are gentle by nature but their sheer size can result in serious injury or in the case of a resident in Marloth park some time ago, death from an injury from getting too close.

The second late afternoon visit in a row, Mrs. Warthog was as happy to see us as we were her and her four babies.

They knew we were there as the mom kept a watchful eye on us as the baby stood nearby. After a few photos, they began to wander away, as did we. Our day was complete and it was only 6:30 am.  We’d seen giraffes.  What more could we want? 

With leftover cut-up fruit from yesterday’s breakfast with guests, the warthog family was thrilled to get fresh fruit which they eat off of the trees and bushes as they wander through Marloth Park. We’d removed all the pits from the apples, plums, nectarines, pears, and apricots.  The only fruit they didn’t eat was apricots which in the shrink-wrapped package I’d purchased at the grocery store, turned out not to be ripe. They’d take a bite only to spit it out.

We’ll take whatever comes our way, whether it be a tree frog as the same one from yesterday continues to observe us from the rafters, an unusual insect, a bird, a dung beetle, a warthog, or a zebra. We’ve loved them all!  Big and small.

See the slice of unripe apricot they refused to eat?  Mom and one baby were looking at us for more fruit that they would eat. We complied. How could we resist?

Tasks for today? A trip with Okee Dokee to pick up a few items at the little house and to the handy little nearby shopping center to buy beer for Tom. With Jabula closed while Dawn and Leon are on vacation in Cape Town, we’ve been making dinner. Once they return on the 18th, we’ll be anxious to return a few more times for the great food and festivities.

As for Valentine’s Day, around 4:00 pm, we plan to go on another four-hour guided game drive and nighttime bush braai in Kruger National Park all cooked and hosted by Louise and Danie. Dining amid the wildlife, once again, we’ll feel safe with armed guards (with rifles) ensuring our safety. The food, always delicious will include many items I can enjoy. What could be more romantic than being entrenched in nature with the person we love? Nothing. Absolutely nothing!

An evening with friends in the bush…A dangerous Black Mamba story…Moving day today…Goodbye Khaya Umdani…An adorable video!

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Some years ago, in the evening Linda, alone while sitting on the veranda at their home in Marloth Park, heard what sounded like a scream. She immediately went inside the house, locking the door behind her. The next morning, she wandered through their property to find the remains of this impala, who’d been attacked by a leopard, as confirmed by the Park Rangers whom she called to assist. All that remained of the impala was this skull that they’ve displayed in their yard as a reminder that there are wild animals in this area and one must always exercise caution.

The commonality we share with people we’ve met in Marloth Park is the profound love of nature and wildlife, like none we’ve seen before and most likely, will ever experience again.

Ken lit the fire in the braaii, using a combination of charcoal and wood. After dinner, he added more wood to keep it up like a bonfire while we remained outdoors the entire evening.

Last night this was exemplified while dining at the lovely bush home of our new friends, Linda and Ken. As typical in South Africa, a braai was on the evening’s agenda, only delayed by the constant chatter among the four of us.

In the past year, Linda and Ken found this huge skin shed by the dreaded Black Mamba that was hanging from the thatched roof over a second-story veranda. Up close, we could see it’s head in detail. Yikes.

Ken, a phenomenal photographer made us drool over his plethora of wildlife photos, inspiring us to bite the bullet and purchase a more sophisticated SLR camera and spend the time necessary to learn to use it. 

Linda and Ken like to fill this standing trough with birdseed and pellets for visiting wildlife. Having only returned from their other home on Friday, they’d yet to see many visitors. They explained that once they’ve been back for three days or so, the wildlife comes to call.  As we sat outdoors the entire evening, there was an abundance of birds and toward the end of the evening, we saw a Genet, a cat-like animal we’d yet to see, which moved too quickly for a photo.

Alas, I tried holding up one of his two cameras last night, only to be disappointed, when my bad shoulder prevented me from holding it up for less than 30 seconds. As much as I love taking photos, this is my reality, which I accept, with the hope and expectation that as technology advances, a lightweight, quality camera will become available in a size and weight I can manage.  

Tom and Ken in my blurry photo as they cooked the steaks on the braai. Wish I’d held the camera steady for a better shot.
This morning Linda and Ken stopped by and we proudly showed off Khaya Umdani as we prepare to leave in a few hours. Once again, we instantly engaged in lively and animated conversation, especially when  Louise and Danie stopped by to see how we’re doing. 

That very commonality becomes so clear when residents of Marloth Park meet other residents immediately having this special interest that only this unique area can provide.

Another skull found in Linda and Ken’s garden from a duiker.

Where are we going? Not back to the little house. Our generous hosts, Louise and Danie have opened up yet another fine property for us to enjoy as our time in Marloth Park winds down. How did we get so lucky?

Although Tom isn’t thrilled about moving quite so often, once we’re unpacked and settled in, the sense of comfort and familiarity will appease him, as it always does, putting him at ease. For me, it’s all an adventure and I love every moment. I don’t even mind the packing and unpacking anymore when it creates a familiar sense of organization and order that I gave up so long ago.

Khaya Umdani was an ethereal dream, 10 full days of the ultimate in comfort and style enhanced by the endless sounds and sights of nature at our doorstep as shown in our photos. It couldn’t have been more perfect.  Absolutely nothing was out of order, annoying or difficult. 

At Khaya Umdani, we enjoyed no less than 10 various warthog families, all of which learned to come to the left side of the pool if they were to get any pellet treats. They learned quickly, making us laugh.

Every possible amenity was on hand; the finest of quality, offering the utmost of functionality and an abundance of eye appeal. From the dishes to the placemats to the bedding and towels, nothing was spared. From Zeff’s daily presence, quietly and unobtrusively in the background, every possible need was met with warmth and enthusiasm.

A few days ago we took this adorable video.  Please watch for a heartwarming chuckle!

In a way, it’s not easy to leave Khaya Umdani. But, we know, having previously seen the house we’re moving to, we’ll be equally at home once we settle in. For me, the bigger issue is the reality that we’re leaving Marloth Park in 19 days. Never in the past, when preparing to leave other countries have I felt such angst about leaving. 

The animals, the people, it will be hard to say goodbye. I can only hope that someday we can return to Africa, to Marloth Park, to visit Capetown, to finally see Victoria Falls, and to once again possess this powerful feeling of belonging to this land.

For now, we’re not done in Africa when soon we’ll head to Morocco, expanding our horizons, further building our experience and knowledge of this continent, so far removed from our past reality and today, so forefront in our hearts and minds.

Problem with the letter “i”…Why?…Upcoming social plans…Moving tomorrow morning…Hppo, I mean “Hippo” photos…

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On Thursday night when we went to Ngwenya for dinner, we perused the Crocodile River for wildlife. Until almost dark, we hadn’t seen a thing until finally, this hippo popped up in the shallow water with several bird friends nearby. In the impending dark, we weren’t able to determine what is located in front of her mouth other than a clump of dirt in the shallow water.

There’s a problem with the letter “i” on the keyboard of my new computer. It’s worrying me.I awoke during the night thinking about the “i” wondering what I will do about it.

I’ve tried everything on the “solutions” list and now am faced with calling HP on Skype which I dread. Having used a computer for most of my adult life, I know what they’ll say, “Send it in for repair under its warranty.”  That’s not possible! We’re leaving South Africa in 20 days. Shipping anything at this point is ridiculous. Oh, please.

Perhaps, it’s foolish of me to hope that over time I’ll get used to pressing the letter with vigor or that eventually, from use, it will resolve itself. Then again, we’ve proven that we have the ability to adapt in the most peculiar situations. 

There she goes to safety for the night. Observing activity on the Crocodile River many times over these past months has shown us how the wildlife returns to the cover of Kruger National Park as darkness falls. Fortunately, for the mature hippo, few predators will attempt to attack them, including the crocodiles as shown in the photo below from our safari in the Maasai Mara in October 2013.

It was only in the past few days that I described what an awful typist I am. Now with the difficultly of pressing a key, it’s more frustrating. Any suggestions out there? I’d love to hear from you! Please comment at the end of this post.

On a more cheerful note… During the holidays we had the pleasure of meeting four wonderful couples, all homeowners in Marloth Park, all of whom have homes in other areas. They spend as much time here as they can since not all of them are retired. 

After the holidays ended, they returned to their other homes. But, in each case, we’ve stayed in touch by email.  Linda and Ken arrived back in Marloth Park yesterday and called inviting us to their home for a braai. We couldn’t be more thrilled!

Here’s our previously shown photo from our safari in the Masai Mara in October 2013;  Hippos and crocs hanging out together. This was quite a surprise to us. Hippos can weigh from 3300 to 4000 pounds, 1500 to 1800 kg. 

Tom and I both are social butterflies, having always enjoyed entertaining in our old lives and getting together with friends at their homes. Although, we don’t pine over not socializing when it’s just the two of us, having social plans is a bonus we’ve thoroughly enjoyed.

Living in “other people’s houses” makes us uncertain about us entertaining. Also, with limited cooking supplies available for entertaining, we’ve hesitated.  Instead, we do what most South African people do: have a braai (barbecue) with guests bringing their own meat, a dish to share and their own alcoholic beverages. That works for us.

Only too well do we know how much work it is to have guests in one’s home; the shopping, the cleaning before and after, the table settings, the clearing of the clutter of papers, bills, personal items scattered about most of our homes at times. It’s a full day or more task for one dinner gathering. We appreciate the invitations more than our hosts can imagine.

OK.  After looking up our photos from the Maasai Mara I could resist posting a few more of our previously shown hippos photos. This was one of the first wildlife sightings we experienced only minutes after arriving at the Masai Mara airport. Love it!

Tomorrow, Sunday, at noon we’re moving out of Khaya Umdani to make way for other guests. We’d assumed we’d be moving back to the little house where the remainder of our “stuff” is still located. 

When we first arrived at Khaya Umdani nine days ago, we weren’t certain how long we’d stay with the prospect of a possible booking sending us on our way. We’d packed enough for a long weekend, since returning to the little house on three occasions to pick up food, supplies, prescriptions, etc.

How they love basking in the sun at the water’s edge on the Mara River. Safari luck, for sure!

Louise and Danie graciously suggested we stay for yet another undetermined period in another of their upscale properties. How could we refuse? In our old lives, the uncertainty of how long we’d stay would have made us crazy. Now, it doesn’t even phase us. How we’ve changed!

This morning, I’ve already packed the food we’d placed in the kitchen cabinets. Tomorrow morning, we’ll pack the food in the refrigerator and freezer, clothing, toiletries, and digital equipment. Okee Dokee will pick us up at noon to drive the short distance to the new house, which is conveniently walking distance from the little house, in case we need anything additional. Easy.

A hippo, taking a break from sunbathing to sniff the ground, or is it that hippos heads are so heavy that they can’t lift them to look around?

As our remaining time in Marloth Park wafts away, we are reminded of how the beauty of nature and wildlife continue to be the core of our travels. Hopefully, soon, throwing in a huge dose of culture may ultimately prove to add another element to our travels that we find enriching and fulfilling. We shall see.

Off to Nelspruit to purchase a laptop…A frustrating 24 hours…I admit it, clumsy me!…

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It was yesterday morning, about this time, that I turned on my screen-damaged laptop to discover an error message warning that it was about to crash. It suggested I run a backup and a subsequent system restore.

The problem was that I couldn’t get a live screen that would allow either to occur. (I won’t bore you with the details on performing either of those, which many of you know and some do not).

After several hours of trying to reboot over and over, I finally got in and was able to backup all my valuable Outlook email, photos, and all files to our two terabytes external hard-drive. However, the system restore utility wouldn’t work. By 5:00 pm, all of my data was on the external hard drive after a stressful day.

During the lengthy “waiting” periods for the system to reboot, I used Tom’s computer to search for possible online resources in order to purchase either a tablet or a laptop locally. The reasons for the necessity of purchasing locally is explained in yesterday’s post.

Louise and Danie each stopped by during this period, offering suggestions that were helpful, saving a considerable amount of more time trying to shop online, which proved to be pointless. Without my own South Africa ID# on one of the two possible sites, I wasn’t able to place an order. The other site indicated a 10 day shipping period after it left their facility for another three to five days. We could be gone by the time it would arrive.

Louise suggested I call the location in Nelspruit, Incredible Connection, the largest digital equipment store in the area, order and pay over the phone and she’d sent a courier to pick it up who charges a minimal cost. I was hopeful after hearing this.

After she left, I called the store to discover phone orders are simply not a possibility, due to the risk of fraud from stolen credit and debit cards. I get this, but was further frustrated. My only option was to go to Nelspruit, an all-day outing, certainly not my choice while we’re so enjoying our continuing time at Khaya Umdani. So it goes.

As for the iPad concept or tablet concept many of you may suggest for me: With all the travel and financial documents and spreadsheets that we have saved on the external hard drive using both Microsoft Word, Excel and Outlook, there is no way I’d want to spend the time to make this available in an Apple or other non-MS Windows-based product. I love these products, have used them for years and at this point, don’t want to change. 

On many occasions, I’ve sent a Microsoft based document to others using an iPad or other tablets only to discover they are unable to open them. We’ve found that family members are also unable to use Skype with an adequate connection using an iPad or tablet.

During last night’s fitful sleep, I made the decision that I must purchase a new laptop. Undoubtedly, based on research online at the website, it’s highly unlikely that they’ll have the most current models. Computers are not manufactured here in South Africa. Everything is imported, requiring import fees and VAT taxes (value-added tax).

This may not be an uncommon dilemma for the business traveler with this same predicament; a broken or stolen laptop or tablet. What do they do? Most likely, what I’m doing today, traveling to the big city to make a new purchase.

Right now, I’m using Tom’s laptop which he uses throughout the day checking on financial matters, communicating with family and friends, and updating his favorite hobby, ancestry.com. I didn’t feel it was fair to use his computer for too long.

Last night, we watched a movie on his laptop after I’d downloaded all the saved TV shows and movies onto the external hard drive. With the loss of only a few apps that are nagging at me, I can now live with the fact that this morning, my almost totally defunct laptop will not let me access anything at all. It’s OK. I can now say goodbye.

On the return drive from Nelspruit with Okee Dokee (Tom is not going with us), I’ll stop at the little house and retrieve the disks for the above Microsoft products. 

We expect to return by 5:00 or 6:00 pm. I’ll make dinner and then begin the process of reinstalling all the apps I need and transferring only the necessary data I need to function. There’s no need to use up many gigs of storage with our 1000’s of photos. They can remain in both Dropbox and on the hard drive for double security.  Perhaps, I’ll even load all the files on whatever cloud comes with the laptop that I purchase.

Hopefully, when I write tomorrow and post some amazing awaiting photos, I’ll feel at ease knowing this is behind me. In the past year, I’ve dropped both my new expensive smartphone and a laptop, breaking them both. What’s the deal? Clumsy perhaps? Or simply, too preoccupied to pay enough attention to things in my hands? Most likely, both of these. 

After all, isn’t clumsiness, just not paying attention? I suppose it is. Can I train myself to pay more attention as to what is in my hands? I don’t drop dishes, glasses, or other items. Just expensive digital equipment. I’m certainly motivated to change after these two harrowing experiences.

I always justify the breaking of these two pieces of vital equipment, by saying, “It could be worse.” And, without a doubt, we’re grateful that it wasn’t. Very grateful.

Tomorrow, we’ll be back into our usual routine of taking photos, posting online, and cheerfully going about our remaining 23 days in Marloth Park. The time is flying!