Ponds with gorgeous lily pads surround the Village Arts area.

Prior to visiting most venues we diligently check online reviews, mostly on TripAdvisor, taking negative comments lightly (except for flights and hotels) knowing full well our expectations may be less than others on a one or two week vacation/holiday.

When we read reviews about the Arts Village in Pacific Harbour, a round trip taxi fare of FJD $10, USD $4.67, we realized it certainly warranted a visit regardless of the comments from online reviewers.  Here are few reviews we read:

“Mediocre 😐”

Reviewed 2 weeks ago

“I think it was originally designed for big things when Pacific Harbour was expanding, but seems a little run down. It’s a mix of tourist shops and local businesses. Worth visiting just to get out of the hotel for a day.”

“Not much here”

Reviewed 3 weeks ago

“But not much in Pacific Harbor anyway, so if you’re in the area, it’s worth doing for lunch or coffee. There is no real “art” in the Arts Village…Just a couple of touristy shops and some cafes.”

A view across the lake of the Arts Village.

Sure, it’s a touristy location with many local wares, handmade crafts and flower printed shirts and dresses.  Sure, it was run down and unlike any mall, one would find in more modern communities. However, we found it charming and befitting Fijian culture.

Inside the courtyard of the Arts Village in Pacific Harbour.

The shop owners were hungry for business when we only spotted a dozen or so other visitors in the two hours we spent wandering about the fairly good-sized open-air mall, wandering in the shops, sharing-friendly and warm “bula” with every passerby. 

We purchased two decks of playing cards for a total of FJD $16, USD $7.47, the only items other than a few food items we purchased at the Indo-Fijian market which was our final stop in the Arts Village.

This is the Fijian bell, the lali, carved from the trunk of a tree often used to alert villagers to church services and other events.

Susan, the property owner, had suggested we stop at the vacation home rental office located in the Art Village for the company that manages this property in her absence. We needed to schedule the weekly cleaning person, discuss the rate, and thought it would be good to say hello. 

We met with Richard, who has lived in Fiji all of his life. We took a seat in his office in air conditioned comfort and chatted for a bit. We arranged for the cleaning person to come this and each Friday, adjusting for the date when Christmas falls on a Friday. The cleaning rate is FJD $30, USD $14 (the exchange rate changes daily) for the full day from 9:00 am to 3:00 pm. 

Spas and salons are plentiful and affordable in Fiji.

At most, the cleaning person will be here for three hours since we keep it clean, but we’re thrilled the pay the full rate. Goodness, in the US it was USD $30, FJD $64 an hour, not the full day! The longer we’ve lived in Fiji, the more we understand why many retired foreigners decide to settle here with free medical care, reasonable priced restaurants and groceries, and low cost for most services. 

Here’s the buffet offered for Christmas day lunch.  We’re dining at this restaurant on Saturday. If we like this establishment, we may book it for Christmas day as well. At FJD $55, USD $26, this may be an option for many in the area.

Hoping to fill in the blanks in our grocery list, we were disappointed but not surprised to be unable to find 10 basic food items on our list. The bottom line is that we’ll have to travel the long drive to Suva once every 10 days to buy groceries. Good public transportation and low taxi fares could easily eliminate the need for a car.

Another dining option for Christmas day which has few options suitable for my diet but may appeal to Tom for its “basic” holiday meal. I’m always willing to compromise. Priced at FJD $95, USD $45.

The taxi fare for the round trip (an hour each way) to Suva is FJD $120, USD $56 which includes a two-hour tour of the city and one hour of waiting time at the market. At most, we’ll make two trips during our remaining time here, taking advantage of the touring time seeing many of the sites in the bigger city. 

With apartments above many of the shops, this occupant is airing pillows on a sunny day. We spotted a few clotheslines on the grounds.

Once we were done at the Arts Village market, we still had to find tomatoes. We’d driven by a few vegetable stands to no avail. Once in the market, a kindly helper pointed to a nearby stand outside the Art Village where he assured us we’d find tomatoes. 

Most products were reasonably priced including handmade crafts.

After filling our Costco bag with three heads of brown and beginning to spoil head lettuce at the market we’d hoped to find more lettuce elsewhere. Lettuce is not a popular item in Fiji. Overall, we’ve had to forgo lettuce salads with dinner since our arrival over three months ago.

Koi in the pond.

After calling our new driver Freddie to pick us up, who requested a 10 minute lead time, when we didn’t get an answer, we wandered across the road to the vegetable stand purchasing 10 perfect medium tomatoes for FJD $5, USD $2.33.

When we made our way to the bench at the taxi waiting area, we called again. This time Freddie answered arriving in 15 minutes apologizing for the wait. Fiji time. No complaining. 

The walkway from one area of the Arts Village to another.

Overall, we found the Art Village charming and worth a visit for anyone in this area. Most likely we’ll return weekly to purchase roasted chickens from the “roasted chicken store” and to dine at one of the several casual restaurants. Checking menus at each restaurant we discovered many options suitable for my diet.

Upon entering the above walkway, this coconut fell from a tree landing in front of our feet. Good thing we weren’t further along and didn’t get hit in the head, always a concern when walking near coconut trees.

The recently cleaned pool on yet another sunny day is calling us. Once done posting and hanging the laundry outdoors, we’ll lounge and finally swim in the pool, the first time since our arrival. 

Aside from the difficulty in finding some food items and the ants which we continue to work on, we’re content. The house is ideal and is as comfortable as we’d hoped. 

Photo from one year ago today, December 9, 2014:

Here’s our visiting family of four from left to right, Jayden 10, Nik 15, TJ, and Sarah. We couldn’t stop laughing when we took this shot at a local stop in Pahoa one year ago. For more details, please click here.

Ocean views never disappoint.

With Rasnesh scheduled to arrive at 1:00 pm, we were surprised when at 12:30 he called, saying he was already in the driveway.  We need to time our shopping to ensure we get to Helen’s, in ample time to pick up our meat after she returns from lunch and her daily trip to the bank. 

Usually, by 2:00 pm she’s back, flipping over the “closed” sign to “open” on the door of her tiny shop, Fiji Meats. We’ve learned our lesson in arriving too early for her return, having to go back home without meat, resulting in paying extra taxi fare for Ratnesh to later pick up our order to deliver to us, one of the nuances of not having one’s own transportation.

We asked him to wait a bit while we wrapped up a few things to get ready to head out the door to venture down the uneven path to the driveway on the steep hill where he waits. We’re never late.

Preferring not to leave him sitting there for a half hour, we packed up our shopping bags, putting on our shoes for the first time in eight days, the last time we’d gone out. 

With tropical storms almost daily and the desire to use the food we had on hand, we decided to shop Friday next week also, only two days before we depart. 

With most of the houses on the beach road overlooking the sea, most had long, steep driveways, none quite as steep as ours.

We’ll purchase two more roasted chickens for next Friday and Saturday nights, using any leftover salad ingredients or purchase new if necessary and then be on our way.  We’ve begun the process of winding down.  Yesterday, I folded all of my clothing in the cupboard which will take two minutes to place inside my solitary clothing suitcase.

Almost totally out of photos to share and with no particular points of interest we longed to see, we asked Rasnesh if he had time to drive along the beach in the opposite direction we’d traveled to the village each week. 

We’d asked him about that drive a few times in the past, but he dismissed it as “nothing new or interesting there” and we didn’t press.  Yesterday, I stated, “Let’s go to the left at the end of the steep driveway instead of to the right. We’d like to take some photos.” 

A bit surprised he smiled with a slight giggle, I’ve found endearing, not mocking us in any manner, but reveling in our desire to see scenery which we find exquisite and he may find repetitious and boring. After all, he’s lived in these breathtaking surroundings all of his life.

We weren’t disappointed. The drive along the beach was as enticing as any scenery we’d seen in these past three months. I continued to ask him to stop the car on no less than a dozen occasions, so I could get out to take photos. He readily stopped in a safe spot for me to exit while he and Tom engaged in idle chatter during my few minute absence. 

Although overcast, we were still thrilled to be out taking photos.

I couldn’t have been more thrilled, knowing I was taking ample photos to share over the next eight days until our departure.  Sure, we could have gone out and about, a lot more often. The bad weather, dark cloudy days, heat and humidity often left us with little interest in riding in the car.

Not wanting to press Rasnesh to use the AC made riding in the car sticky and uncomfortable on the most humid days, when the temperature was a moist 88F, 31C, with humidity hovering at 90% with no breeze. 

Its not something we’ve chosen to do when we don’t have to, although after these past three plus years, we’ve experienced it over and over again…the four hour drive (each way) from the airport in Belize City to Placencia in 90F, 32C with no AC, the many safari expeditions in both Kenya and South Africa on outrageously hot day and on and on, many times.

Long ago, we decided there’s no need to impress our readers with our resiliency in traveling on the roads in discomfort when we don’t have to do so. I have ants walking on my monitor as we speak and just swatted two off my left arm. We’re resilient enough. 

Again, today it’s a humid scorcher and my mug of warm coffee is preventing me from taking one more swig. The overhead and standing fans are operating at full speed. The occasional cool breeze wafting through the windows always inspires us to comment to one another as to how good it feels.

The beach along this area is mostly rocky.

When the long road ended at a resort we flipped around to head to the village for a trip to the pharmacy, the Vodafone store, the Farmers Market, the New World Market, finally ending at Fiji’s Meats located at the far end of the village, too far to walk. 

For the rest, we walk to each location along with all the other villagers who were busy with their own errands and shopping. Tom took off for the ATM while I visited the pharmacy. I’d had an idea to fill three prescriptions here when the pharmacist explained we didn’t need a local prescriptions and old US prescriptions or actual pill bottles would do.

My prescriptions from Minnesota were over three years old. He didn’t flinch, taking photos of each one with his phone. Asking how big a supply I preferred, hesitantly I suggested one year. He didn’t flinch.

In Australia, I was able to purchase six months of prescription meds and with what I had left on hand, with this new one year’s supply, it could possibly last for two more years. Since none of my meds are any type of controlled substances they can be readied filled. My three prescriptions are for the smallest possible doses for thyroid and hypertension (hereditary conditions).

The kindly pharmacist explained he’d order the smaller-than-usual doses and see what arrived within the week.  I may have to use my little blue pill cutter which has come in handy over these past years in the event he can’t get the small doses. Next Friday, they’ll be ready, giving him plenty of time to receive the order. Once we pick them up, we’ll happily share the prices.

The long steep driveways often lead to multiple properties.

Tom doesn’t take any prescription drugs since starting this way of eating. His mother Mary, who passed away at 98, didn’t either in her old age. He’s hoping for the same longevity and good health. My family’s medical history on my mother’s side is less forgiving with raging diabetes and heart disease.

Leaving the pharmacy, we walked across the road to Vodafone, made our usual data purchase of USD $69.61, FJD $150, (for 48 gigs) enough to get us through at least this next week. If we haven’t used it all by the time we leave, we’ll be able to use it during the 28 days on the next island. 

The Farmers Market was crowded on a Friday as we managed to work our way through the crowds to our favorite vendors. As we moved along, a lovely Fijian women, stopped me with a huge smile on her face.  Months ago, I’d asked her about avocados. At that time, she explained they weren’t in season. I was stunned she remembered that I’d asked!

We purchased two enormous avocados for USD $1.86, FJD $4 (for both) and now they’re resting on a pane of glass on the jalousie window in the kitchen while I’m hoping they’ll ripen in the next few days. 

I’m imaging a half of an avo filled with salmon salad made with chopped hard boiled eggs, diced celery, onions and our homemade dressing. That will be a refreshing treat for me while Tom has something else I’ll have prepared for him. 

As we approached the Farmers Market we couldn’t help but notice a band playing loud Fijian music. With the dense crowd hovering around the group we weren’t able to maneuver in position for a photo. Instead, I opted for a video when moments after we arrived the music ended and the group packed up their equipment. Not every moment is “safari luck” although, overall, it certainly feels as if it is!

Upon entering New World Market, looking forward to some AC while we shopped we were instantly aware their AC was out.  t was hotter in the market than it had been outdoors. 

There’s a wide variety of styles of homes in Fiji, no particular style standing out above the rest. Since most of these houses are built by foreigners, typically they reflect a certain aspect of the owner’s home country.

Luckily, we didn’t need much at the market as we wind down our time in Savusavu. Within ten minutes, I called Rasnesh to advise him we’d be ready to be picked up within five minutes, long enough to check out and pay for our few groceries.  Luckily, he was available, showing up outside exactly as we exited the store.

With the AC now on in his vehicle, the cooling effect was profound, especially for me sitting in the front seat while Tom happily languished in the backseat with nary a complaint. I always ride in the front seat on photo taking days, insisting he do so on other days.

We were off for the final stop, Fiji Meats. The “open” sign was posted on the door. Expressing multiple “bulas” between the three of us, she packed our hot chickens, mince beef and pork, chicken breasts along with two packages of sliced ham. 

She wasn’t able to get any streaky bacon this week so we opted for the sliced ham instead in order to make the last batch of Tom’s crust free breakfast quiche which is usually made using cooked streaky bacon.  I cook it and then freeze it in squares of three to ensure its fresh each morning.

When he uses the last of the three, he takes out another pack of three leaving it in the refrigerator to thaw overnight. Today, I’ll make enough to last through next Saturday, a total of seven pieces as well as one more batch of our favorite side dish, a tasty mushroom casserole to accompany any type of meat we may be having along with a salad, sliced cucumber and another hot veggie.

We hope all of our readers in the US had a fulfilling and filling Thanksgiving day! Wishing a great day to all of our worldwide readers!

Photo from one year ago today, November 28, 2014:

Skeleton of a humpback whale at the Whalers Village in Kaanapali Beach, Maui. For more photos, please click here.

We now purchase all of our eggs from this vendor at the Farmer’s Market closest to the door when the local egg lady, Kusma, was too hard to get to up the steep mountainous road, even for Rasnesh’s vehicle. The tray of two and a half dozen tray of chemical and antibiotic-free eggs is FJD $12.50, USD $5.36.  To date, we haven’t encountered one bad egg.

A week or so ago, one of our readers posted a comment requesting we include more photos of the village of Savusavu, the cars, and the stores where we shop each week. We hadn’t paid much attention to the types of cars in Savusavu. With the suggestion from our reader, we made an effort to notice finding they are the same types of cars and trucks found in any city, nothing unusual. 

This is the Vodafone kiosk where we purchase data almost every week. There is a friendly and fun rep in this store that we’ve come to know, a young woman in her 20’s, very adept and knowledgeable making the experience enjoyable. Usually, there’s little waiting.

Based on what Mario explained all vehicles imported to the island may be as much as 20% higher than the cost in larger countries. Then again, most vehicles are imported to their final destination in today’s day and age.

We spotted no American models with the steering wheel on the right-hand side. Most were models manufactured in Asia and Europe. Few native Fijians drive. Most cars and trucks are owned or driven by ex-pats, rentals, farmers and taxis, local businesses including resorts and hotels, police, and medical services.

This tiny chemist shop has more inventory packed into this tiny space than imaginable. One need only ask for an item and they happily scrounge around until they find it. The owner, of Muslim heritage, refused to allow interior and staff photos which we’ve encountered and respected in Morocco and other Muslim countries.

As we’ve mentioned, we didn’t rent a car here when the steep dirt road to the house requires a four-wheel-drive including in dry weather. With the outrageous cost of renting a four-wheel drive for three months, well into the $1000’s per month, we opted for highly regarded and never disappointing Rasnesh.

In the past several days, we began researching our next location in Pacific Harbour, Viti Levu.  It’s hard to believe that in 39 days we’ll be leaving Savusavu and flying out on the little airplane to Nadi. We were checking on whether we should rent a car there or not.

This is an example of cars we’ve seen in Fiji, not necessarily including the exterior décor.

Contacting Susan, the owner of the house, she suggested a shuttle company for the 95km drive from the airport to the house and local drivers as opposed to renting a car for local trips. 

The Hibiscus Highway runs through the village.  It was quiet when we took this photo last week.

Checking rates online, the lowest we were able to find was USD $1,400, FJD $2,988 for a one-month rental, plus taxes and fees, most likely ending close to USD $2,000, FJD $4269. Also, many of the shops and restaurants are within walking distance of the house or only a short ride. For the reasonable prices of drivers in Fiji, if we went out every day we’d never spend half as much as we would for a rental car. 

The front door of the Farmer’s Market.  No signage is posted at this entrance.

Apparently, Pacific Heights shopping and tours will be comparable to what we’ve found in and about Savusavu.  For our grocery needs; meat, veggies, and some dairy, even the smaller markets will be able to accommodate us. Susan explained there are a few vegetable stands within walking distance.

A side entrance to the Farmer’s Market. To the far right are the freezers when fresh-caught fish is stored.

As for the local shopping in Savusavu, we’ve managed to find everything we could possibly want or need between the meat market, Farmer’s Market, and the three aisle grocery store as shown in today’s photos. In reality, my way of eating makes grocery shopping easy. What location doesn’t have a source of animal protein, vegetables, and dairy?

The Farmer’s Market is huge with dozens of vendors offering fresh produce. Most of the vendors purchase the produce directly from the local farmers to sell here each day.

Recently, we were asked if we eat dairy. Many have chosen to avoid dairy entirely for health reasons. Were either of us sensitive to it, we’d do the same. We aren’t. We use thick whole cream for coffee and cooking; full-fat cheese, full-fat sour cream (for salad dressing recipes), and full-fat cream cheese (when available), mostly in cooking as opposed to eating individually. 

A vendor stocking his freezer with fish. We’ve chosen not to purchase this fish when most of it is “reef fish” which can cause bacterial infections when sewage flows to the sea, staying in the reef areas.

Neither of us has any issues with digestion. We avoid yogurt when most have added sugars, even in the plain full-fat version. Cultured full fat sour cream provides good probiotics without added sugars. Many sour cream brands sold in the US are not cultured unless specifically stated on the label.

This vendor has been our first stop each week. Typically, we purchase cabbage and tomatoes from her. Last week, we passed on the tomatoes when they weren’t ripe enough for our immediate use.

Many may say, why do we consume dairy when we basically consume a very low carb, starch-free, sugar-free, and grain-free “paleo” type diet?  The limitations of the way we eat including full-fat low carb dairy in moderation have added much-desired variety avoiding boredom from eating a slab of protein, a veggie, and a salad night after night.

These Fijian women were sitting on the floor while one gave the other a massage.

With many recipes in a folder on my desktop including various combinations of the above items including some dairy, we’re able to enjoy a varied and fulfilling diet, many of which can be prepared in 30 minutes or less, including chopping and dicing time. A few take longer but, what else do I have to do with my time?

Taro, a popular starch product commonly used in Fijian cooking.

With Shalote and Usi handling the cleaning and laundry, I have the second half of each day to do as I please. The only cleaning I tackle is sweeping the floor after preparing meals and cleaning the kitchen and bathroom after use. 

Almost daily, I hand wash kitchen towels hanging them outdoors to dry mainly as a means of keeping the ants under control. With a few newly implemented procedures we’ve successfully kept the ants away over the past several days. 

As mentioned, the New World Market has three grocery aisles and is often out of products we use. There’s been no “plunger” coffee for the past three weeks.  We buy celery and carrots here as opposed to the Farmer’s Market.  For some unknown reason, these two items are fresher here.  The woman leaning against the produce bin assists with bagging the produce and then weighs it on a hanging kilogram scale. Tom always pushes the trolley.

After dinner, Tom does a thorough cleaning of the dishes, the countertop, and washing the placemats while I scrub the dining table with hot soapy water to ensure not a single crumb remains. By washing the exterior of the refrigerator each day and washing the handle after each opening, we haven’t seen an ant on the fridge in days.

We don’t purchase much in this aisle, the center of three aisles in the market. It contains laundry and cleaning products on this end and soda and chips on the other end, none of which we use.

It’s taken a while to figure out this ant thing but now, we think we’ve got it covered. We have a small can of ant killer spray which Tom uses outside around the trashcan after a thorough washing in hot soapy water. Daily trash removal is vital to keeping the ants under control.

We purchase little in this aisle when it contains toiletries, candy, paper products, and canned goods. At the far end is another small section with baking supplies, and freezers with frozen meat and vegetables, ice cream, and miscellaneous items, none of which we purchase.

Today and over the next several days, we’re including all new photos of outings and road trips we’ve taken in Vanua Levu, not necessarily related to one another. We’re coming up to two outings, one tomorrow (Thursday) and another on our upcoming three-year anniversary on October 31st (Saturday) with many new photos to share. Please stay tuned.

Have a fabulous day! 

Photo from one year ago today, October 28, 2014:

A year ago, we were worried about the flow of the lava from Mount Kilauea which at the time was heading directly to the neighborhood where the two houses we’d rented for the upcoming family visit over Christmas. Luckily, after arrival in Pahoa on the Big Island, the lava diverted its flow and we could stop worrying. Please read here for details.

 Photo from three years ago, taken at Tom’s retirement party, only days before we left Minnesota:

At that point, we were using my cell phone for photos. Oh, how times have changed. Please click here for details.