Now dining out 3 nights a week…One of our new favorites, The Sands at Nomad…Lots of photos…

No, this was not a creature that we found in our bathroom during the night. It was my delectable entrée, delicate grill calamari with an octopus topper at dinner a week ago Saturday at the divine The Sands at Nomad.
My dinner plate in its entirety, 7 skewered grilled garlic buttered calamari atop a plentiful portion of grilled non-starchy vegetables. I didn’t try the sauce fearing it may contain sugar. 
Tom’s pork chop dinner that same evening with fried potato wedges and sautéed vegetables.
While we were busy thinking, sleeping, and writing safari, life continued on for us in Diani Beach, Kenya these almost past two weeks since our return from the Masai Mara.
Tom was looking forward to dining while the cool ocean breezes washed over us.

I must admit, after that profound experience, everything we do in the future has the potential to be anti-climatic comparatively. 

The menu offered many selections, all reasonably priced.  For a frame of reference, KES $1000 equals US $11.76. 

We’ll have to shake loose that feeling. We will, especially when in less than six weeks we’ll have the opportunity to go on safari as often as we’d like living in Marloth Park, on the edge of Kruger Park, one of the largest game reserves in the world for a full three months. The company that owns several properties in the adjoining parks arrange game drives, day and night (and day walks) and we can participate at will.

With my shoulder painful after taking over 600 photos on safari, I fashioned this sling using a scarf. Keeping it immobile since we returned has been helpful.  Luckily, it wasn’t painful until the day after our return.

I can’t comprehend this option when at the end of our 4 days, 3 nights in the Masai Mara, all I could think of was, “I want more.” Living amid many of the animals in Marloth Park in itself will be greatly fulfilling and of course, fodder for endless photos to share here.

One of the many lounge areas in The Sands at Nomad, not only a resort and restaurant but a welcoming stopping point for thirsty visitors seeking a spot to relax and unwind either inside the bar or at the tables on the beach where food is also served.


Another lounging area.

It’s odd to admit that I’m dreaming of the next location while still in Kenya.  We promised ourselves we’d live in the moment. The safari spoiled us. It’s not unusual to feel a sense of longing after such a life-changing experience. Wanting more. That’s us, humans. Always wanting more.

The lavish décor, embracing the genuine African theme, is pleasing to the senses throughout the property, including the guest suites as shown in the below photos.

Realizing this dilemma, as we’d mentioned a few days ago, we’ve decided to start getting out more often, dining out three times a week, buying only enough groceries to last for four days, trying at least one new resort each week.

This past Saturday night, the 19th, after the complimentary taxi ride, we walked the short distance to the restaurant, we were enthused to see the property in daylight. Although shortly after 6:00 pm, we’d still have an opportunity to see a few of the suites and peruse the remainder of the property while still light.


Beachgoers lounged at the outdoor tables, drinking and eating pizza.


There were numerous outdoor tables, but we preferred to dine to the left of this area, still outside, still with views of the Indian Ocean but a more elegant environment that we preferred.


The cool ocean breeze off the Indian Ocean had me chilled on a few occasions, definitely something I hadn’t felt in a very long time.

These past two Saturday nights, we had the pleasure of dining at The Sands at Nomad, once after dark and the second time at 6:00 pm hoping to take photos while it was still light and of course, see the beach on the Indian Ocean.

On our walk to see the suites, we couldn’t resist stopping to inspect this tree.
Here’s the information about the unusual tree.
Felix, the host for our tour of the suites, took us along a path parallel to the ocean to see the interesting and appealing grounds, a part of which included these private cottages.


These executive cottages couldn’t have been more appealing.

With the help of Claudia, Assistant Manager via email, on both occasions were seated the same perfect ocean front table, now “our table.” Delightful Claudia came to greet us, chatting for a considerable time the first Saturday and this Saturday, her husband Richard, a charming gentleman, stopped for a chatty visit as well.  We couldn’t have felt more welcome.

With our plan to arrive at 6:00 pm, Claudia had arranged for us to have a tour of the property with Felix showing us four suites from the more basic to the finest, photos of which are included here today.

The executive cottages were exquisite, pricey for most travelers but well worth the opportunity to see the interior.
This stairway led to a loft area in one of the executive cottages.

The ambiance of the resort is calming and welcoming, the service impeccable, and the food is fresh, seasoned to perfection with local spices, and presented with the utmost finesse and decoration, befitting the best-schooled chefs.

The appealing grounds inspired a lounge chair, a book and a cool beverage.

A complimentary appetizer is served at each seating consisting of a plate of fried potato skins with a delectable sweet and spicy sauce on the side. With my restrictive diet, I don’t eat potatoes (or any starch) but enjoyed watching Tom eat them (I’ve learned to live vicariously through his eating foods that I cannot).

The suites were lavishly decorated with every possible amenity, including air conditioning, free Wifi and TV’s. 


Nothing was spared in The Sands at Nomad in creating a lush environment for its guests.


A private Jacuzzi was in each of the suites we visited, at varying price ranges.


There were bars and casual dining spots scattered around the complex.


The more luxurious cottages had a private yard and outdoor Jacuzzi, although the less expensive suites also had private Jacuzzis.

An outdoor shower in one of the cottage’s private yards.


African artifacts adorned the suites enhancing the homey feel.

 
Locally crafted woodwork, all made by hand was breathtaking.
Another cozy lounge area available to resort guests added to the ambiance of this exquisite property.

The first Saturday night, we ordered off the menu. I ordered the most delicate and flavorful grilled calamari of my life, a favorite, as shown in the above photo. Tom ordered a piled high grouping of thin-sliced pork chops atop a bed of grilled vegetables with fried potato wedges on the side.

On Saturday night, our second visit to The Sands at Nomad, we both ordered the buffet as shown on this menu with no limitations on portions.  I passed on the pasta, starches, and desserts, but was able to dine on their many other offerings, all delectable. The price of the buffet at KES $2000 is US $23.52 per person. In Belize, the buffet at Robert’s Grove, which we had most Saturday nights, although overall excellent, was US $35 per person.

This recent Saturday night, the 19th, after our tour of the property, we had beverages at the bar. I had the best unsweetened ice tea ever; frothy, foamy, and refreshing, ordering a second glass once we were seated at our table. Of course, the first night of the waning full moon gave us a mesmerizing ringside seat.

The cooks at the grill were friendly and helpful in assisting us to make our decisions.

This time, we both tried the nightly buffet, a changing cacophony of epicurean delights, predicated by the local catch of the day, seasonal vegetables, and an ever-changing menu. 

Having selected literally every offered julienne vegetable, this was my stir fry with shrimp, calamari, and snapper, topped with a few dashes of soy sauce, the only sauce on the list of 10 that I surmised was truly sugar and grain-free. Regular soy sauce may contain a small amount of wheat that may trigger serious reactions in those with Celiac’s Disease. Since I consider gluten intolerant, the small amount didn’t seem to bother me.  Overall, I’m opposed to consuming foods made with soy, based on its GMO status. But at times, one may choose to go with the flow when little else is available.

The main meat station consisted of a choice of meats and seafood, as much as desired, stir-fried with the wide array of julienne vegetables lined up at the cooking station for our selection.  In essence, it was a Chinese/Japanese type stir fry, cooked to order with a list of no less than 10 sauces from which to choose.

My stir fry with a side of snapper and buttered steamed vegetable. My mouth is watering as I write this. I can’t wait to go back for more of The Sands at Nomad’s fine food.
My salad bar plate with more calamari and octopus, plus a cheese salad, inspiring me to make this for us, plus marinated eggplant, zucchini, and more.

We didn’t partake of the offered beef kabobs, made fresh on the huge Teppanyaki grill, along with the stir fry. We simply had no room. The cooks were attentive and diligent in preparing our dishes exactly as preferred. 

This is the two-sided salad bar with little doors, leaving food chilled and free from flies containing local dishes, none of which contained gluten, grains, starch, or sugar, I had a field day. To order the salad bar as a standalone was KES $700, US $8.23 but it wouldn’t work for me as it was lacking in protein, which I must include with each meal.

In addition, there were two tables filled with more options, including soup, potatoes, rice, noodles, grilled vegetables, Kenyan barbecue pork, and chicken. I tried the chicken to announce to Tom, that if that alone had been my entire dinner along with the vegetables I would have been content.  It was moist, flavorful, and fell off of the bone. 

The most interesting salad bar closed behind individual, easily opening little doors at a glass-windowed cooling station, was irresistible, most of which fit in well with my dietary constraints. (Flour based sauces are seldom used in Kenya by fine chefs. They’ve learned the value of a good reduction sauce which in most cases, I am able to order as a side).

Tom’s plate, including his stir fry with no veggies other than onion and celery, barbecue pork, a side of roasted potatoes, and white rice. He didn’t try the included salad bar, but did go back for seconds and a small dessert consisting of custard with chocolate sauce along with a few mini cream puffs.

Another feature offered by The Sands at Nomad is the complimentary taxi service, which, on both occasions, Gabriel showed up promptly at our guarded gates to pick us up.  The return after dinner was equally seamless.  Of course, we left a good tip. 

As for the cost for both dinners, ordering off the menu on the first Saturday night, our total bill, including tax, tips, and service fees was KES $3932.70, US $46.24. This past Saturday, by ordering the buffet at KES $2000, US $23.52 per person, plus Tom ordered two cocktails as opposed to two beers the first time, our total including tax, tips, and service fees was KES $6650.10, US $78.18. 

This photo was taken from our table at 8:00 pm this Saturday night while dining.

The buffet, in its uniqueness and varied options, maybe a choice we’d made on occasion, with a desire to try other items off of the menu. For me, on our next visit, I must repeat the grilled calamari and octopus as shown in the photo. It was divine.

Overall, The Sands at Nomad has proven to be much more than a restaurant and hotel, but a fine establishment for tourists and locals to visit for a relaxing and luxuriating respite from daily life. 

We offer a special thank you to Claudia and Richard for making us feel welcomed, pampered, and at ease.

We’ll be back… 

Life continues on after safari…Tom gets a haircut…What is making noise upstairs in the house?…

This is what I heard flying around in the 2nd story of the house, hard to access with a narrow steep winding staircase.

The afternoon after returning from safari, I told Tom I heard a peculiar noise emanating from the second floor of our Diani Beach house. Going partway up the steps he looked around, dismissing my concern, saying “I don’t see anything.”

A short time later, I heard it again, insisting we climb the treacherous stairs and check it out, taking the camera with me. Little did I suspect, we’d get this shot of an owl which could easily have been trapped since we’d been on safari.

Hesborn managed to steer it outdoors much to our relief. Who knows how long this owl had gone without food or water?  In any case, we were thrilled to be able to capture its beautiful plumage that looked like a short sleeve shirt Tom used to have in his closet.

The moon is a crescent on the bottom portion when this close to the equator. Who would have ever thought of this?  No, so far we haven’t seen the toilet flush in the opposite direction as it does in the US.  We took this photo on October 9th.

It’s a tough act to follow, those 13 posts with photos of our safari. In a funny way, writing about it all these days seemed to extend the safari time for us as, day after day, as we relived our varied experiences.

Diners at Madafoo, as well as most other resort properties are welcomed to sit outside, near the beach and in some cases at their pool. 

After considerable feedback from email and comments, we are filled with joy for the experience we’ve been able to share. Thanks to all of our friends, family, and readers from all over the world for “traveling along with us” adding to this special experience.

While we sat near the ocean at Madafoo’s a few vendors approached us, relentlessly trying to encourage us to make a purchase. Watching the windsurfers was fun but seemed more befitting the younger crowd. We only observed one person possibly over 40 partaking in this activity.

The story of life in Kenya continues on…

It’s Spring in Kenya now with the seasons the opposite of that in the US.  The subtle increase in temperature each day, oddly, is obvious to us, as we continue to live outdoors for 16 hours a day.  The rainy season has passed. Hopefully, a dryer climate will bring less humidity and fewer bugs.

We can see Tom’s head right after his haircut when I cut his head off in this shot.

Returning to our house in Diani Beach gave us a renewed sense of how much we need to get out more often during our remaining 6 weeks until leaving for South Africa.  With few nearby activities suitable for use with our bad shoulders, our obvious choice is to get as close to the beach as often as possible, which is literally across the street from our compound, albeit a long walk down a long narrow path we’d shown in an earlier post.

Madafoo’s is known for what they call “Kite Surfing.”  In checking out a nearby sign, it appeared the cost to rent the equipment was approximate, US $100 per hour. Lessons were less.

We decided that the solution is to visit the many fabulous resorts on the ocean earlier in the daylight hours rather than wait until darkness while still booking a reservation for 7:00 or 7:30 pm.  Hanging out for a few hours, taking photos, relaxing in their lounge chairs is exactly what we need. 

Reviewing our budget we’ve determined that we can easily visit three or four times per week. The cost of the cab plus food, drinks, and tips rarely exceed US$60 when ordering any main course off the menu. With our remaining budget of US$200 per week for entertainment and dining out, this is a no brainer.

Most of the resorts have resident dogs that keep an eye out for strangers approaching. The more upscale resorts/restaurants we’ve been visiting also have guards on the beach day and night.  These dogs are well fed and friendly to customers.  This guy looks like he’s been getting plenty of bites of food from diners.

We’d hoped that Madafoo’s bar and restaurant would fill this bill. Although their prices are lowest in the area plus they have free WiFi, we’ve found their food not quite working for my restrictive diet and, compared to other resorts. During daylight hours they have almost as many flies as we found at the Kenya Tanzania border.

Oh, heck, I’ll admit it, as you know, I’m not big on any bugs. Who is? Flies bite me leaving a swollen itchy mess for days. Let’s face it, we’ve been chasing scary biting insects away since the “no-see-ums” when we lived in Belize starting at the end of last January. 

As the sun went down at Madafoo’s, we enjoyed the views.

After arriving at our house in South Africa, we’ll have a reprieve with screens on all the windows, an indoor living room, and air conditioning which we’ll use from time to time. Surely, we’ll lounge outdoors by the pool most days watching the animals that will visit the house. But, when we need a break we’ll have the option of cooling off indoors while escaping the flying, crawling, walking, and slithering things that are also in abundance in both Marloth and Kruger Parks.

The first night we returned from the safari, Alfred, our taxi guy, delivered us to Madafoo’s for a light dinner and WiFi around 6:00 pm. Still wearing my now clean BugsAway clothing and hat, literally not a fly or mosquito bothered me as the sun soon went down.

The sunbathers left as the sun began to set and we moved to the restaurant for dinner,

After that positive experience, we decided to try it again this past week, this time wearing shorts and tee shirts, with me covered in repellent only to be bombarded with flies during the daylight.  The ocean was exquisite.  Watching the windsurfing was mesmerizing but batting off the flies caused us to decide we couldn’t return during daylight hours.  Once it was dark, the flies disappeared while the mosquitoes replaced them.

This adorable guy, a part-time resort resident belonging to one of the windsurfing trainers, hung around with us during our dinner looking for morsels.  Once we gave him several bites and he saw our plates were clean, he moved over to the table of other diners with full plates. 

Madafoo’s serves food all day as well as in the evenings. The constant flow of food attracts flies and mosquitoes. Many of the finer resorts only serve meals at certain times perhaps reducing the fly and mosquito population. Considering this fact,  plus my food issues, we don’t plan to return to Madafoo’s, although it’s a great spot for many tourists as both a resort and a restaurant.

With all of our clothes washed and neatly folded by the Olonana staff, we quickly unpacked upon returning from Madafoo’s that evening. We were anxious to grocery shop the next day and, to begin the process of telling our safari story online as we began sorting through over 600 photos.

The moon at Madafoo’s second night we visited upon returning from the safari, then on October 15th, was almost full.

The next morning, on October 9th, I walked onto the grass to the clothesline in the back yard to hang up a few items. Apparently, during that short walk, something (which I didn’t see) crawled up the leg of my shorts, biting the upper inner part of my thigh, leaving a stinger in place.

After sterilizing our tweezers in boiling water, I was able to remove the stinger. Luckily, I didn’t have an allergic reaction requiring the use of the EpiPen or further medical care. It was hot, red, and swollen for a week during which time I iced it several times a day. Finally, the pain stopped leaving an ugly bruise which is still visible 10 days later. I would have taken a photo but most girls wouldn’t like to take a photo of their upper inner thigh and post it online.  Right?

There’s something magical about the moon. 

Tomorrow, we’ll explain why we returned the XCom Global Mifi to the US on Tuesday this week, and the WiFi system we’ve implemented savings us $100’s per month that may work for you also when traveling. Also, what was in the box of supplies that resulted in our paying DHL a US$458 shipping fee? Please stop back!
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Here’s Tom Kenya haircut at US $19.98 including tax and tip.

Tom, before the haircut.
Ibrahim is chatting with Tom during the haircut.
The business card from the salon.
Josephine chatted with me while we waited.  Alfred, our cab driver, waited in a salon chair reading a magazine waiting for Ibrahim to finish so we could be on our way. 
 Tom’s final result.  Now he doesn’t have to think about a haircut again until we’re living in South Africa.

More safari photos and stories…Picnic breakfast in the bush…

A fantastic morning in the bush.

With a picnic basket on the passenger seat in Anderson’s Land Cruiser filled with a wide selection of delectable hot breakfast items for the six of us and Anderson, we took off for our last morning drive at 6:30 am .

A cool guy in the bush.

Oddly, I didn’t feel a sense of dread in it almost being over since I had chosen to live in the moment, relishing precisely what was at hand than projecting leaving the next day. 

As we left the area of Camp Olonana, cows were in abundance. In the Maasai, Mara cows serve as food for the Maasai tribes. (A story follows soon about their lifestyle and low-carb, grain-free, starch-free, sugar-free diet)!

As we bounced along in the vehicle, animated conversation wafting through the air, I said, “I feel like I have an “E” ticket at Disneyland, and the day is just beginning!” Everyone laughed, so we all felt in agreement with the joyful anticipation. Anderson, who’d never left Africa in his life, required an explanation which I gladly provided.

Hot air balloon rides are shared in the Maasai Mara.  We’d considered this option but decided we’d rather spend the time on the ground with better up, closer photo opportunities with the wildlife.


The view of the hot air balloons made an exciting backdrop for our early morning photos.

With the air nippy early in the early morning at 5000 feet above sea level, we were glad Anderson had warned us to wear jackets. For the first time since leaving the US, we brought out the Scottesvest Parkas, perfect for this chilly environment. 

Unfortunately, my parka was bright blue, my only option in my size at the time of purchase long ago. Blue attracts tsetse flies, of which there were none in the Maasai Mara but that we’ll find plentiful soon in South Africa. Tom’s was a perfect Khaki green.

The waterbuck, reasonably expected in the Maasai Mara, posed for us in the morning sun.

I imagined we’d search for a few morning treasures and picnic by 8:00 am. But, the distractions of the wildlife kept us from wanting to stop until one of our safari mates cried hunger around 10:30 am. We could easily have kept going with little regard for food or coffee.

Mom and baby eland.
Anderson busied himself setting up our breakfast, only allowing any of us to set up the camp stools.  Notice his well-equipped picnic basket. The stainless steel containers were filled with our still-warm breakfast, thoughtfully prepared by Ambrose, the chef, very early in the morning.

But we were in a group, after all, and we didn’t protest. We so enjoyed our companions that we didn’t give it a thought, knowing we’d join right in once the food and drinks were set up.

With room for four at the small table, some of us sat nearby, eating breakfast on our laps. There were croissants, cold cereal, pancakes, eggs, sausage, and
a wide array of fruit. Although I could only eat the eggs and sausage, I was content. 

Anderson found a perfect spot under a tree where the grass was short, away from potential danger. Also, the place he’d picked had a nearby huge rock that provided modesty for all of us to “check the tire pressure” before hitting the road again after breakfast. 

Bending over the table was our safari mate, David, and sisters, Susan and Linda, all experienced travelers to the right.

At this point, I’d become rather adept at managing my “tire pressure checking” in the wild, a feat I’d never considered before embarking on this experience.  See…we’re never too old to learn new tricks!

From left to right, on the ground first: Tom, Anderson, David, Linda.  In the truck, from left to right, is David’s wife, Cindy and Linda’s sister Susan.  I took the photo.

Anderson had observed the last morning that I had asked for “real cream” for my coffee, of which there was none.  Here we were the following day, and he proudly whipped out a can of fresh cream. I couldn’t have been more appreciative of him for remembering. 

Anderson took this next photo of us, a little blurry but worth keeping, the only shot we had of our group of safari mates.

We had much to accomplish on the road again after breakfast before our morning drive ended.  Anderson had promised we’d go to Tanzania to see the tail end of the Great Migration. 

Besides myself, with excitement, I could hardly wait to get back on the road. Tomorrow, we’ll share the photos of another round of rhinos we found that morning and our subsequent exciting trip to Tanzania, another highlight of our adventure.

This hyena, not the cutest creature in the bush, stopped for a morning pose, curious about our intentions.
Cheetah blocking the road.


Patiently waiting for her to clear the road, he meandered to the side of the road, content to watch us as we were only a few feet away.

As we searched for more rhinos (check back tomorrow for rhino photos), we continued to find more awe-inspiring sightings with the help of Anderson, his eagle eye, and his use of the finest pair of binoculars in the land.  We were thrilled when he spotted this lion family lounging under a tree at a distance as he maneuvered our way for a closer view.
Females and young lions were lounging in the shade of the tree.  Our perception was that the male lions hang out with the family, which is not the case.  Once these young males mature, they’ll go off on their own to hunt, mate, and occasionally hang out with their male sons and siblings.
 
Such a relaxing day, lounging with the family!
Watching the lions was addicting. We could easily have stayed there all day, but we had to keep moving, searching, and veering toward our goal to travel to the Tanzanian border to see the tail end of the Great Migration.
It was taken quite a distance since we had little time to chase down an ostrich.  Nonetheless, it was fun to see.
After what we’d seen after the Great Migration had left a week earlier, we were not disappointed we’d missed it. Someday, as mentioned earlier, we’ll return to the Maasai Mara, planning it to coincide with the two million wildebeest crossing the Mara River over and again as it winds from the Serengeti to the Maasai Mara.  
Most likely a mom and a maturing baby, butt to butt, in quiet repose.
 But, having an opportunity to travel by Land Cruiser across the rough plains to Tanzania was exciting in itself.   It was hard to believe we could accomplish all of this with the day we’d already experienced in the remaining time. Leave it to Anderson to figure it all out for us. Again, we were never disappointed.
Our safari mate, Susan, was so excited to see this turtle.  With hers and Linda’s new giant cameras in hand, none of us minded stopping for a photo op.

Before noon we were on our way to Tanzania, with more exquisite sightings along the way. We hope we still have your interest in our safari as we attempt to wind our way down.  Yet to share:

1.  Rhinos and our trip to Tanzania, including a few fantastic lion photos along the way.
2.  The dinner hosted by Camp Olonana in the bush is a surprise treat for Maasai singers and dancers and a feast pleasing to any palate.
3.  The trip to the Maasai village and our visit with Chief Richard, his two wives, and many children and extended family.
4.  The review of Camp Olonana, Sanctuary Retreats, where we’ll someday return and hope to visit their other worldwide locations sometime in the future.
5.  Our return flight and musings of our entire journey.

We are holding stories unrelated to the safari that we’ll share as we move along. So far, Africa has proven to be a world on its own, leaving us breathless and hungry for more. 

It would be worthwhile to go on a bird-watching safari with wide varieties. Focused on the larger creatures, we often missed bird photo ops. Had we had more time, we definitely would have taken more bird photos.

Day four…Safari…Beyond our wildest dreams…21 hours on safari…

Tom nudged me to turn around when I had the camera pointed in the opposite direction.  I gasped when I saw this, a gift from the heavens.  Thank you, Kenya.

As we wind down our stay at Olonana Sanctuary Retreats we feel that this has been the most enriching and pleasurable experience of our lives. In asking Tom for a description of our time here he smiled from ear and ear, simply saying, “WOW!” And WOW it was.

The story of our time at Olonana and spending 21 hours on safari in three days is only just the beginning. As I mentioned, once we return to a better Internet connection in Diani Beach and get situated, we’ll be able to post more photos in a day’s post as compared to the few we’ve posted the past few days.

This female lion as all animals in the wild is constantly on the lookout for the next meal to feed her cubs, also lying under this tree, as shown in the photo below.

Also, a full review of the retreat, the safari, the food, the service, and the extraordinary staff will be posted in the next week with photos of all of the above, definitely in the 5* category.

A kindly, frequent “commenter” asked a few good questions at the end of yesterday’s post, While on safari for 6 to 10 hours at a time, what do you do for a restroom break or food?”  Great questions!  (Thanks for asking, Pat!)

Two of the three days, we had a picnic in the bush under a tree while Anderson set up a complete meal including all foods appropriate to my way of eating plus the goodies for everyone else. 

This lion is at leisure with her cubs under the shade of a tree.

The passengers excluding Anderson, the guide and driver (the best ever!) in the open-sided Land Cruisers, was six, with only four of us the first half of the three days. They were all fun, animated, full of laughter, and equally in awe of every moment of our experiences.

As for the potty break, that was also in the bush behind a tree or a shrub or the vehicle if necessary which Anderson referred to as “checking the tire pressure.”

If we needed to stop, we need only say, “I need to check the tire pressure” and we’d all laugh.  Obviously, this is an easy task for the guys. Us girls managed rather well. 

Today, our return flight is scheduled at the landing strip at 2:00 pm. Anderson will drive us, leaving here at 1:00 pm, most likely with a few photo stops along the way.

The guys laughed when us girls said the hippos were cute.

With these small planes, the times are inconsistent, but we hope to return to our house in Diani Beach, Kenya no later than 6:00 pm, drop off our bags, and have Alfred, our cab driver, drop us at a local restaurant for dinner.

Tomorrow, we have much to do including organizing our 600+ photos, beginning “the rest of the story”, and wrapping up some details for our trip to Hawaii to meet up with our family for Christmas in 14 months, a seemingly long time away. Based on how fast this past year has gone, it will be in no time at all.

The acacia tree, usually flat on the top is a common tree in Kenya.

We’ll be back tomorrow with many more photos along with the progression of our time at Olonana with 21 hours on safari. UpWe’ll never forget the gift Mother Nature blissfully bestowed upon us, leaving us breathless, humbled and in awe.

“WOW,”  he says. I agree!

Part 2…Le Cafe at Lantana Galu Beach…Price shocker at end of post…

The flowers that lined the walkway from the main building at Lantana Galu Beach to the outdoor path were absolutely breathtaking. What a perfect spot for a wedding!

The menu at Le Café at Lantana Galu Beach was a plethora of appetizers, meats, poultry, fish, shellfish, and side dishes suitable for the finicky of diners.

Vegetarian options were available as well as foods easily amenable to my low carb, gluten-free, starch-free, grain-free, sugar-free diet. There were more possible combinations than we’ve seen on any other menus thus far in Kenya. 

I never doubted for a moment that the chef would make an error in the preparation of my restricted meal.  The elegance and grace of the establishment bespoke a keen sensitivity to the needs of its customers.

The service, flawless. With neither of us starving, we didn’t partake in any appetizers or salad. Most certainly, next time we go to Le Café, we’ll surely experiment trying more dishes.

My dinner:  Seasoned Grilled Red Snapper with sautéed non-starchy vegetables

My plate, as shown above, was flavorful, albeit the lack of sauces and starchy side dishes. It may sound difficult, if not impossible, for a restricted diner such as myself to assess the quality of food without the usual sauces and side dishes.

In my perception, the true test of a great restaurant is in their ability to masterfully take the simplest of foods with the least amount of ingredients to ultimately turn out an epicurean delight. This was accomplished at Le Café with finesse. 

An otherwise bland snapper resulted in a flaky and flavorful entrée, enhanced with the subtle use of local spices, grilled at precisely the correct time and temperature, and presented with this perfect blend of al dente sautéed vegetables. 

Notice the lack of veggies on Tom’s plate?  He requested they be placed on a separate plate to be handed over to me.  I did the same with my potatoes, handing them over to him.

My only suggestion for my dinner was to have smaller carrot bites to avoid the necessity of cutting, as my knife couldn’t quite tackle the job. Secondly, the pea pods could have been strung more completely to avoid that awful green string, stuck in the back of one’s throat, and struggling to find a gracious manner of extracting it.

A simple tomato and cucumber garnish adds the finest little touch.  Tom gave me this also.  The only raw vegetables he’ll eat in carrots and celery.

For beverages, Tom had two local Tusker bottled beer approximately half-liter each (16.9 oz.) and I had my once a week treat of one Coke Light (sugar-free) with lots of ice and a straw, switching to water when done.  (The water at Le Café is purified as if often the case at the finer restaurants in Kenya. We suggest you ask, if unsure as to the purity of the water). 

After our walk back to the main building, once again, we were mesmerized by these gorgeous fresh flowers.

HERE’S THE SHOCKER, FOLKS!!! Our entire dinner including beverages was Kenya Shillings $2500 which translates to US $28.61 (including tax and service fee!).  We added a tip for our server for Kenya Shillings $1000, US $11.44 for a grand total of Kenya Shillings $3500, US $40.06!

The buds for the sweet-smelling flowers was intoxicating, as in a fine perfume.

With our cab fare and tip for Kenya Shillings $1500, US $17.16, our entire total for the evening at an extraordinary resort, a memorable dining experience, and service beyond all reproach, was US $57.22! 

An exterior window of one of the units was adorned with more of these flowers.

So far, of our four Diani Beach restaurant experiences over the past four weeks, Le Café at Lantana Galu Beach is vying for first place with Sails Restaurant on our list for ambiance, service, food choices, food quality, and much to our surprise, in price. We’ll be back!

Wouldn’t this make a lovely bridal bouquet?
Just as we began to exit the main door, this red plant caught Tom’s eye.

Part 1…Le Cafe at Lantana Galu Beach…We’ll be back…

Last night, our waiter at Le Café at Lantana Galu beach offered to take a photo of us. Gee, we’ve lost our tans.

With a solid recommendation from Hans plus numerous excellent reviews on TripAdviser.com, we decided to try Le Café at Lantana Galu Beach last night for our Saturday dinner date night.

Although only a very short distance, the drive to the property took nearly 10 minutes over the bumpiest road we’ve seen so far in Kenya; unpaved, laden with potholes, definitely not suitable for the queasy.  Heading south on the road outside our property for the first time, we were distracted by the various resorts we’d yet to visit, making the bouncy ride less annoying.

This is the entrance to the main building.  A long walk was required on a poorly lit path in order to reach the restaurant located on the beach. It proved to be well worth the walk.

The excitement of trying a new restaurant each Saturday night creates a refreshing sense of anticipation after a few days of quiet contemplation in our outdoor living room.

With us, there’s always a bit of trepidation of going out. We seldom dined out in our old life. But, this is our new life that includes making the effort to find something to wear and get ourselves out the door.

The waiting area in the lobby of the resort.  Apartments and condos are sold at this resort to later be rented and managed by the company, a similar concept we experienced at LaruBeya where we lived for over two months in Belize.

In every case, once we’re on our way, we smile at each other, thrilled that once again we’ve pushed ourselves to explore, try something new, step further outside the box. We now realize how complacent, we’d become in the past with the comfort of an established routine of staying home.  There’s no room for complacency in our lives now with so much world to see!

As we began the walk outdoors toward the beach, we turned around hoping to capture the main building behind us.
John at the front desk was friendly, welcoming us with much enthusiasm.
As the taxi driver, Chris pulled up to the resort, we were immediately struck by the massive wood security doors opening only after a security guard checked us out, confirmed our reservation and allowing us to enter.  


The long walk through the complex began through this elegant walkway lined with pillars and the most beautiful flowers.  The air was permeated with their intoxicating scent.

The awe-inspiring entrance immediately sets the tone for what we’d anticipated being a special evening. We weren’t disappointed. John, the concierge, pointed us down the flower-covered walkway directing us to follow the long path toward the ocean and the pool where we’d find the restaurant.
What’s with my outfit?  My skirt was wrinkled and misshapen. Do I really have to start ironing again?
Always smiling!  Wrinkled clothes don’t phase him, not his, not mine!
Having seen photos online, we knew if we could find the pool, we’d have reached our destination. After walking for several minutes, we’d begun to wonder if we’d gone the right way. We forged ahead to the sound of the surf which proved to be the perfect guide.
These are the apartment buildings where units are sold to owners for their own use and to rent to tourists, managed by the resort. As we continue on the walk, we passed many smaller buildings with individual condo units. Poorly lit we didn’t want to disturb occupants with our camera flash.
In the US and other countries, there are endless codes and ordinances requiring handrails, lighted walkways, and stable pathways with the intent of reducing injury and accommodating the elderly and/or disabled. 
Le Café is located by this outstanding swimming pool, creatively designed to capture the essence of the subtle Moroccan theme of tranquility and splendor.
In Kenya and many other parts of the world that we’ve visited thus far, no such codes exist or, if they do, they aren’t enforced.  Even the finest establishments are lax in providing ample lighting and stable walking areas when often a long walk is required from the road to the beach.
Notice how the server in this photo was waiting for us. Apparently, John at the front desk had called ahead alerting him to our pending arrival. 
Mindful of this situation, especially after our horrible fall when the steps collapsed beneath us in Belize, we take special precautions when walking on uneven and poorly lit grounds. 
Shortly after we arrived a small group gathered at the far right end of the bar, resulting in lively and animated banter pleasing to hear and see. But the conversation wasn’t lacking at our quiet table for two, with many staff members graciously stopping by to chat and welcome us, as we gushed over our memorable experience.
Both blind, Tom’s mother (sadly lost to us 5 years ago) and brother Jerome resulted in Tom learning to be the perfect guide over rough terrain. Also, after years of working the rough roads in train yards, he’s adept at managing the worst of conditions. Me, the “queen of trip and fall,” always in a hurry until now, paid little mind to what was under my feet.
It was easy to imagine a sunny day lounging in these chairs, dipping in the pool from time to time.
Last night, as we made our way in the dark, my champion at my side, I felt safe and secure that we’d arrive in one piece. Of course, we did, our mouths agape at what we encountered when we arrived at Le Café.
Looking at Tom, as we entered the restaurant, I said, “Even if the food is mediocre, I am happy to be here.” It was that breathtaking! The food was not mediocre!
This footbridge over a portion of the pool was clearly a photo op. I should toss this frumpy shapeless skirt having one less item to pack.
Seated at our table of choice closest to the pool and the beach, the guest’s comfort in this unique establishment was obviously of utmost concern. As we sunk into the exquisite padded chairs we couldn’t help but notice the soft bright white linen tablecloth and the matching napkins, appropriately placed on our laps, as a flurry of discrete activity skittered around us.
Our drink orders filled, the menus delivered at precisely the correct moment, we were greeted by name by the kindly General Manager Gillie, with whom I’d made the reservation online. What a nice touch! Chatting with her for several minutes, we felt welcomed and at home.
These were only two pages of a multiple page menu.
Our waiter, graciously served our needs, answered questions, didn’t bother us too much, somehow knew exactly how we preferred to be served. Later, the restaurant manager stopped by, offering his welcome, asking a few questions about our stay in Kenya, inviting us to return for more lavish care. We will. We absolutely will!
Tomorrow, we’ll post Part 2 (memory issues at this time restrict the number of photos posted at one time) with our menu selections (including the accommodation of my food restrictions) with photos and, the unbelievable pricing for an evening well spent along with the total cost for our evening including taxes, cab fare, and tips.

Friday night date night…An entire restaurant to ourselves on a moonlit night…

   
Moonbeams over the Indian Ocean last night at the Blue Marlin Restaurant, reflecting off the ocean and lighting the sand.  Tiny sand crabs were scurrying about at our feet on we stood in the sand. 
 
The moon as it made it’s way from the fast moving clouds.
Ah, moonlight!
This spot was ideal for relaxing after one drank too many Margarita’s!

With a 7:30 pm reservation at the acclaimed seaside restaurant, the Blue Marlin, we were shocked when by 9:30 pm not another guest had arrived to dine.  We had the entire restaurant and staff to ourselves, receiving impeccable service and thoughtful attention on a perfect moonlit night. 


The chalk board at the Blue Marlin listed the daily specials.



The Blue Marlin offered a relaxed comfortable environment for diners. Notice an actual blue marlin on the wall.



Tom drank two bottles of this local Tusker beer.  You’d have to carry me out if I drank two of these.  I’m often tempted to have a drink but having anything with alcohol, as seldom as I do, results in outrageous hangovers from two of anything.  Plus, one is no fun!

The strong breeze from the sea was refreshing, the food divine, the ambiance inviting, leaving us feeling relaxed and at ease.  The short 5 minute cab ride confirmed yet again, that within our reach are all the restaurants we could possibly want for our weekly dining our experiences. 

Yes, I know.  Photos of us often shows us wearing the same clothes over and over.  After ditching most of our clothing to lighten our load, we have no choice but to do so. We try to wear the same items frequently in order to wear them out for disposal, saving the newer items for the future.  So far, nothing has worn out.  With no clothes dryers available, the thinnest tee shirts “live” forever.

As we work our way through Trip Advisor’s list of the top 18 restaurants in Diani Beach, thus far we’ve tried 3 of the top 4 and will continue to work our way down.  

What a smiley guy! I’m lucky!

With our remaining time in Kenya, we’ll fall short of trying out the entire list, plus with our upcoming safari over a weekend, we’ll only be able to have tried the top 11.

The chef insisted we take a photo together!

The Blue Marlin’s fish and shellfish are caught each day in the Indian Ocean, a few short steps from their door, to be served that evening for some of the finest tasting seafood we’ve had in our travels. 


The waiters were anxiously waiting for more diners to arrive.  Why, they didn’t baffled us.

The aroma of garlic, butter and rich fish sauces permeated the air as we pulled into the guarded gate sending our appetites to “full on” mode.  With Tom’s finicky palate, I wondered if there would be alternate selections for him. 

The cooks at work  in the outdoor kitchen preparing our appetizers and main courses.

For appetizers, I ordered a gluten free crab salad prepared in a creamy seasoned mayonnaise sauce while Tom ordered bacon wrapped jumbo prawns.  Both were epicurean delights, pleasing to the palate. 

Tom’s appetizer of bacon wrapped jumbo prawns.  I pointed out the bulging eyes.  He asked, “Why’d you tell me that?”
 

My appetizer was a delicious creamy crab salad. 

Once again, my guy surprised me ordering a local fish dish referred to as Swahili Fish, most likely a type of snapper with special sauces and spices, served with coconut flavored white rice and vegetables.  He ate every morsel on his plate.

Tom’s dinner consisted of a sizable portion of Swahili Fish, most likely a type of snapper.  Bone free and lightly season with a rich buttery coconut sauce, he had no trouble devouring every morsel.

My dinner was grilled calamari rings from what must have been one giant squid. I could have worn them as bracelets as opposed to the usual small rings typical in fried and battered calamari. 

Look at the size of these calamari rings!  I, too, savored every morsel on my plate.

Usually chewy, (one of the reasons I like squid), they were prepared to perfection leaving the chewiness factor in tact.  The remainder of my plate was filled with slightly crunchy grilled vegetables, seasoned in local spices. 

Tom took this photo from the beach on the Indian Ocean as tiny sand crabs scurried around his feet. While we dined, the crabs were everywhere.  Our dog friend, Zaa Zaa couldn’t resist chasing the larger crabs that she found on the beach.

With the full moon rising in a spectacular display throughout the evening, on several occasions we walked the short distance to the sand to take photos.  It couldn’t have been a more perfect evening.

Two dogs lived outdoors at the restaurant, one a malamute and the other, a Jack Russell mix.  The JR, Zaa Zaa, never left our side, graciously soliciting a tidbit.  Tom fed her the bulgy eyed head of one of his giant prawns which she enthusiastically devoured. 

I chuckled to myself a few times thinking, “Gee, we have a moonlit night, extraordinary food, ideal weather conditions, quiet surroundings, an attentive adorable dog at our side, all the while engaged in lively and animated conversation with each other.

The total cost for the evening was US $75.53 which includes meal, cab fare, tax and tips.

Zaa Zaa, our friendly companion for the evening, lying at our feet as we dined.

Tonight, we’ll be dining with Jeri and Hans at their home.  Happy hour will be on their third floor veranda.  I wonder if we’ll dine at their cozy indoor dining table or outside on the veranda.  We haven’t had an indoor meal in almost three weeks.

How weird is that!

Dinner in a cave?…Yep!…Last night we dined in a cave…

I thought Tom looked great in this photo, but I reminded myself of Morticia wearing all black or, of the day in Abu Dhabi when we entered the famed White Mosque, requiring that I wore the black abaya in the 100+ degree weather while I was sick. I’ll never forget that day or, that photo which my sister Julie gets hysterical over every time she looks at it! (See the post in the archives for May 30, 2013).

As we continue on our mission of trying a different Diani Beach restaurant each Saturday night, we enjoyed on our second outing at the locally acclaimed Ali Barbour’s Cave Restaurant


The ambiance, in a natural cave, was formed by the sea over 400,000 years ago while the restaurant itself is thought to be between 120 to 180 years old, renovated in the 1980s with the intent of maintaining its original integrity.

Standing at the top of the stairway leading down to the natural cave, we were able to look down at the bar below. Every effort was made to maintain the original integrity of this environment when it became a restaurant over 100 years ago, renovated in the 1980s

This was accomplished with the most finite details, using only a minimum of modern-day amenities such as; candles as opposed electricity; few electric wires discretely placed to allow for small fans for movement of the humid air as opposed to air conditioning; an open ceiling as nature had created allowing a view of the stars in the night sky while dining.

During dinner, Tom mentioned that it reminded him of a “man-made attraction one might find at Disneyland where the walls we made of molded resin as opposed to the natural stone.” 

The lounge in the bar where we had our drinks while waiting for our table. The restaurant didn’t open until 7:30 pm with most diners not appearing until 8:30 or later. I guess us folks from the US are early diners.  We’ve found that dinner is typically served at 8:00, often 9:00 pm as we travel the world.

Adding to the ease of making online reservations for dinner, Ali Barbour Cave Restaurant provides complimentary driver service to and from the restaurant. At promptly 7:00 pm, the driver arrived as we waited with the guard at the main gate to our complex.

As the older van pulled up, I asked, “Where are you from?” as a safety precaution. When Joseph replied, “Ali Barbour Cave Restaurant” my mind was at ease.

Another view the seating areas in the bar, depicting somewhat of a Moroccan theme, of which we’ll see plenty when we live in Marrakesh Morocco, a mere six months from now.  My, how the time is flying by!

Based on the restaurant’s proximity to our home on Google Maps, I’d anticipated a short two or three-minute drive. Once on the dark, narrow, bumpy unlit road, as cars drive on the left side, I began to worry after more than 10 minutes had elapsed. 

Joseph reassured me it was down the road a short distance. As we pulled into a narrower rocky unpaved, unmarked road, Tom and I squeezed each other’s hand, wondering why there was no sign on the road and where we were going.

View of the walls in the bar. All lighting in the walls and at the table was a result of candles, creating a warm atmosphere, romantic to say the least.

Later, when we left the restaurant, we noticed a glaring sign on the opposite side of the highway that we missed when turning in. Perhaps, we were foolish to give it a thought.  But, living in Kenya one cannot be too cautious.

The seating across from us as we lounged on the love seat in the bar.

For the first time in our travels, with all the bumpy and scary roads we’ve traveled, last night was the first time I felt a little carsick. The weaving back and forth along the busy highway, the lack of air conditioning, the smell of toxic fires in the air, my stomach revolted in queasiness. Luckily, once we arrived, the feeling quickly passed.

To our surprise, no security was in place at the entrance to the restaurant, although a Maasai guard/greeter wearing traditional African red robes warmly welcomed us, graciously opening the car door and offering a hand to assist us out of the back seat.

The story about the cave.  Excuse the flash.  In the dark cave, it was unavoidable.

Upon entering the unique space, we both were instantly in awe of yet another of nature’s creations that humans had so carefully maintained.

The air, thick and humid, cooled by numerous quiet, well-hidden fans, took a few minutes to become adapted. After all, we were in a cave.  I’d expected to find a few bats flying about or perhaps evidence of guano. There was no evidence of either.

In Kenya, living, and dining all of our meals outdoors, I feel sticky and grimy at all times. Also, the necessity of re-applying mosquito repellent (DEET free is working well, but requires reapplication every few hours) during all waking hours (we’re protected by the mosquito netting in bed) invariably attracts the soot and sand in the area at all times, only adding to the feeling of being dirty.

Showering every morning leaves me at my worst by the end of the day. With the water restrictions, we choose to only shower once a day. Having to dress in more “evening out” clothing as is typical in finer restaurants in the area (no shorts allowed), it’s difficult to make myself change into other clothing, as the mosquitoes are in a full frenzy around 6:30 pm each night. 

Diners began to filter in around 8:00 pm, filling all tables by the time we were ready to leave around 9:45 pm.  We’d be warned not to rush the servers for the check-in our travels. Many countries’ servers are accustomed to taking their time in delivering the bill. Most often, as is the case here in Kenya, tips are only allowed to be paid in cash, not added to the credit card slip.  Of course, this requires us to keep adequate change on hand.

When staying in, we both change into our BugsAway clothing provided considerable protection from the mosquitoes except for exposed skin. Each night before dinner, I lather my arms, hands, and ankles with the stinky lotion.

Going out to dinner changes the entire scenario.  With no BugsAway clothing acceptable for dining in finer restaurants to protect me, I have no alternative but to fully coat myself with the lotion before putting on the evening clothes. 

Talk about feeling hot and sticky! Of course, I bring the lotion with us, often requiring an additional application during dinner, as the mosquitoes swarm around me. 

This is the natural opening in the ceiling, allowing a view of the night sky. It would interesting to visit during the day to look down into the hole in the main dining area.

Perusing the dinner menu, we were at a loss as to what we’d order. With their chef familiar with gluten-free cooking, I felt reasonably at ease, especially after explaining that he need also consider my avoidance of sugar, grain, and starches.

Twice, the waitress came to our table graciously inquiring as to our readiness to order, and twice we still hadn’t decided. Tom, beef lover than he is, coupled with his finicky taste buds, ended up choosing double Fillet Mignon once again, one of which was veal with Bearnaise sauce and the other regular beef with a peppercorn sauce. 

Only a few tables had guests when we entered the dining room around 7:45 pm. Within an hour, it was fully booked, mostly with non-English speaking tourists.

He didn’t find either of the sauces offensive in any manner but said the steak was less tender than he’d had the prior Saturday night at the Sails Restaurant at the Almanara Resort. 

Compliments of the chef, we were both served this tangy GF marinated salad.  Tom took one bite turning his serving over to me, both of which I thoroughly enjoyed.

My dinner was similar to a pesto cheesy chicken recipe I’d concocted while living in Italy using the fresh herbs from our patio garden. The portion at The Cave was small leaving me hungry after dinner. Upon returning home, I ate a large handful of Macadamia nuts, which took care of that issue.

The dining room extending beyond where we were seated.
Most likely, we were the oldest diners in the restaurant all evening.  We noticed that the majority of the diners were younger couples, mostly in the late ’20s and ’30s. As we’d also observed in Italy when out and about, we seldom encountered any “old-timers” like us, causing us to wonder where all the retirees have gone for vacations or “ex-pat” living.
With the cost of living escalating in Kenya over the past several years and, with tourism down considerably, few retirees are making Kenya their home.  Also, the negative press regarding the crime rate in Kenya has deterred many travelers from coming this way.
This was the view to my right as we sat at a cozy, not too small table against one of the walls. We always prefer a wall, table as opposed to one positioned in the center of the room.
Candlelight accentuates the natural holes in the cave, adding to the ambiance.

For my dinner, as shown, I ordered the Cheesy Chicken atop a pesto sauce, all gluten-free, with a side of sautéed vegetables. Tom, as always, scooted his vegetables onto my plate, a common occurrence due to his distaste for “green things.”

My dinner, Cheesy Chicken atop a pesto sauce was well seasoned and pleasing to the palate, although the serving size was small. Rather than a chicken breast, this serving was a small single thigh. 
Realizing that my dinner may not satisfy my now ravenous appetite I’d considered a side salad.  Unfortunately, they didn’t have a salad dressing befitting my way of eating (low or no sugar and gluten-free) plus, we assumed that the raw vegetables weren’t washed in purified water, adding to the risk of disease or illness.
Tom’s dinner of two small Filet Mignon, each with a different sauce.  He was disappointed in his meal, having higher expectations after reading many five star reviews.

Would we recommend the Ali Barbour’s Cave Restaurant? Yes. The interesting and unusual atmosphere is well worth the visit, although we’d consider the food to be average. The service was flawless. Over the top!

Overall, including VAT tax, Tom’s two huge bottles of beer, my full liter of sparkling water, the service charge, tips for the servers, and the shuttle driver, we spent a total of US $68.09.

The stairway going up and out of Ali Barbour’s Cave Restaurant. Gee, we’ve gone up and down a number of stone stairs in these past months!

Currently, with taxes, we’re spending approximately US $40 per day for groceries. It’s certainly worth spending an extra US $28 for us to get out of our outdoor living room for an evening and to dine at the hands of a local chef.

Typical day in the life…

The blue in this photo is a small kiddy pool on the shared patio next door.  We don’t use that area due to the plants surrounding it that seems to attract more wasps and bees than on either our private patio or veranda. By the way, we do not take photos of topless sunbathers, often seen lounging on this shared patio.

A number of our friends have asked, “What do you guys do all day?”

With no yard work, no major cleaning, no visitors, no dog to walk, no nearby store or health club, no family coming for breakfast or dinner, no cable TV, and no English speaking neighbors to chat within the yard, how in the world could we possibly keep from getting bored?

This is not exclusively our dilemma.  Many retirees eventually move to a low maintenance lifestyle in warm climates far from family and friends, facing a similar situation. 

While living in Scottsdale, Arizona from November 4 to January 1, 2013, we were entrenched in such a lifestyle.

Tom’s sisters and brothers-in-law were living only a half-hour away in Apache Junction Arizona as they did each year to escape Minnesota’s rough winters. Connecting with them each week or so was a respite from our daily flurry of activities as we prepared to leave the US.

Switching back and forth between two local restaurants for breakfast every few mornings, dining out for dinner each week, and occasionally attending a local comedy club created a pleasant break in our daily routine.

During that two month period in Arizona, we were busy preparing documents to enable us to leave the US for an extended period, learning to use our new digital devices, preparing our taxes, and spending a week in Henderson Nevada with family over Christmas.  Actually, we visited Henderson on another occasion, to babysit our grand dog Monty while son Richard traveled out of town.

Without a doubt, it was a busy two months, not unlike the busy times spent with many of our retired friends who have condos in warm climates, living a rewarding and fulfilling life.

As for us living in Boveglio, it was a culture shock to realize no one and I mean no one speaks English. Not at the grocery store, not in the street, not a neighbor, not our landlords, not our cleaning lady, no one. Adapting to this reality has been challenging.

Much to my surprise, now when a person speaks to me in Italian I am able to decipher the gist of the conversation, although not able to translate word for word nor respond in other than a few Italian words I’ve managed to learn. 

Today, I researched the word for “thick” in Google Translate.  The butcher at the deli slices the bacon (US type) too thin, resulting in in cooking too quickly and well done. There are several options for “thick” in Italian: “spesso,” “denso,” “grosso.” We’ll see how it goes when we shop for groceries in the next few days when I attempt to explain the preferred thicker slicing of the bacon.

Two to three times per week someone rings our doorbell immediately speaking to me in Italian. (Tom refuses to answer the door, understanding less than my feeble attempt). They are either selling mops, brooms, and dustpans, frozen foods, looking for an address, looking for a person, or our kindly Santina, dropping off yet another bag filled with vegetables from her garden which we cook daily, never seeming to run out.

A few days ago, Tom and I chuckled over the fact that we’ve had more surprise visitors at the door in the past seven weeks since we’ve arrived in Boveglio, than we had in the prior seven years in our old lives, with each exchange challenging my language skills.

The point well-made: Not speaking Italian has had an enormous effect on the activities if our daily lives. So, how do we stay busy each day?

Here’s the rundown of our activities today.  Tom’s day is similar spending more time online than I do. (I’d be curious to hear from others as to their daily activities.  I wouldn’t be surprised if they’re similar.  Please do share).

7:30 am
Bolt out of bed.  Turn on the coffee. Shower and dress for the day.  Make the bed together.

8:00 am
Start a load of laundry.  Then, drink coffee and fire up the laptop, checking in.  Put away dried dishes from last night’s dinner.  (In my old life, I never left a plate to dry in the sink overnight).

8:30 am
Make breakfast: sausages, bacon, and eggs. Eat breakfast.

9:00 am
Do dishes. Decide on dinner. Hand cut the cabbage and carrots for the coleslaw, a daily task. There’s no pre-cut coleslaw mix here. Cutting it fresh each day seems to add to its crunchy texture. Slice and dice any other veggies for dinner.

9:30 am
Removed all the food in the freezer stacking it in the kitchen sink to begin the process of defrosting the freezer for the third time since we’ve arrived. The freezer is tiny. We need every inch of space for our next shopping trip. 

10:00 am
Tom poured the hot tea water into a pan, placing it in the freezer to aid in the defrosting process, repeating three times. Within a half-hour, the freezer was defrosted. I replaced the food, noting what we have on hand for the upcoming shopping trip.

10:30 am
Took the laundry out of the washer, starting another load of whites, hanging it outside on the patio (where the bees congregate). Quickly hung the laundry, in another successful attempt to avoid being stung.

11:00 pm
Made hot tea, taking it out to the veranda with my laptop in hand, to begin writing this post, while responding to email, etc. Continued to check the laundry. When the sweat started dripping off of me, I switched to iced tea, capping off the liter container. Used the remaining hot water in the coffee machine to make a new batch of iced tea.

11:30 am
Observed topless woman arranging her chaise lounge on the patio next door. Mentioned this to Tom. Using his monitor as a mirror, he checked it out to no avail. Turning around would have been tacky and obvious. I had a better vantage point.

11:56 pm
Heard twelve clangs of the clock tower next door, always four to five minutes early, repeating at 11:58.  Removed the second load of laundry from the washer heading out to our patio to hang today’s final load. Finished making the pitcher of iced tea, chilling it in the fridge. Back to the veranda to work on my laptop.

1:00 pm
Laptop batteries were almost dead. Returned laptops to the kitchen table to recharge and began downloading TV shows and movies from Graboid for tonight’s viewing. Sat in the living room, playing Gin with Tom while English speaking international news program played in the background.  He won.

2:30 pm
Laptop batteries recharged, Tom headed back to the veranda while I read my latest mystery novel on my smartphone while lounging on the lumpy 100-year-old sofa in the living room. It was 95 degrees and steamy yesterday. Today it was only 90 but steamy as a gentle breeze wafted from the living room window, the opening now covered with mosquito netting, keeping the bees and flies at bay.

4:30 pm
Tea time, a daily ritual, hot or not. Tom had already showered and returned to the veranda with his charged laptop.  I brought in the now dry laundry from the patio while once again batted off the bees, folded everything, and put it all away.

5:45 pm
Begin final prep for our dinner, planned as usual for 7:00 pm. Yesterday, I prepared, but didn’t cook our dinner for tonight, a common practice with no microwave, making two night’s meals, cooking one each night for optimum freshness and enjoyment. Chopped more zucchini, to soon be cooked in olive oil with fresh garlic and herbs from the garden.

6:00 pm
Arranged the clean and dry tablecloth onto the kitchen table, setting our places for dinner: linen napkins, forks, and sharp knives.

6:15 pm
Mixed up the coleslaw dividing it into two batches and placed them back into the refrigerator to stay cold.  Preheated the oven to bake the cheesy chicken/bacon roll-ups, a recipe I got off Facebook, which I modified with local ingredients. Chopped the sausage and onion for the stir fry side dish. Prepared the fresh green beans. It’s a good thing that Tom does the dishes with so many pots to wash. Good thing there are enough pots in which to cook.

6:30 pm
Put the chicken in the oven. Started the stir fry sausage and onions.

This is the pan of yet to be cooked bacon and pancetta-wrapped chicken scallopini (thin slices of chicken breasts pounded by the butcher) that I stuffed with seasoned ricotta cheese and chopped herbs from our private garden, wrapping them in in the two versions of “bacon,” Tom prefers regular US-style bacon and me, loving the thin-sliced pancetta.  These cooked for 30 minutes at 375 degrees (180 centigrade). I topped this with an Italian pesto sauce I’d made using ingredients from the garden.

6:45 pm
Started the green beans. Reheated the zucchini. Tended to the stir fry as it cooked.

7:00 pm
Served dinner with each of us easily moving through the kitchen to fill our various plates with a wide array of food. Sat at the kitchen table eating our meal while watching a show, a favorite ritual when its just the two of us. Again tonight, we watched another episode of the current season of  “America’s Got Talent.” More light entertainment we find to be rather humorous and entertaining.

7:45 pm
Having enjoyed our dinner with the show over, Tom washed the mountain of dishes while I cleaned off the table the stove, and the countertops.

8:15 pm
Set up my laptop in the living room in order for us to watch two shows tonight, the final first season’s episode of The Killing (AMC) as well as episode 5 of House of Cards (Netflix production). Positioned ourselves as comfortably as possible on the lumpy 100-year-old sofa. 

9:45 pm
Finished watching the two shows.  Downloaded from Graboid, there are no commercials reducing the actual viewing time. It’s at this time, I usually take my smartphone to bed to read until Tom comes to bed.  (I read my downloaded ebooks on the same smartphone I’d dropped on the cement in March in Belize. Never having had the screen repaired due to the inconvenience of shipping it back and forth, I quickly read the first sentence at the top of the screen which was the most damaged area. Once past that first sentence, the remainder of the reading is a breeze.

11:30 pm
Tom came to bed, his smartphone in hand to read his book while I attempt to go to sleep. By midnight, he turns off his phone, lightly snoring a few minutes later.

12:00 am
Tossing and turning I struggled to find a comfortable spot for my still painful but improved right shoulder.  Within a half-hour, blissful slumber overtakes me only to be interrupted by dreams of having to get up to go to “work,” driving in the snow, office politics, deadlines, trying to achieve the impossible, a true “frustration dream” often similarly repeated several times a week. 

Does this mean I feel guilty about our simple life, our never boring routine? I don’t feel guilty, but I do still pinch myself every few days as many retirees may do, asking themselves, “Am I really free? Is it true that I don’t have to go back to work on Monday morning? May I now enjoy Sunday afternoons, angst-free, knowing that Mondays are just another “typical day in the life?

Oh, it’s the simple things…

A European Hornet’s nest was being built by a slew of giant hornets in a crack in the small opening at the top of this photo. These old stone houses are a breeding ground for nests for all types of critters.

While hanging the laundry this week, I heard the loudest buzzing of a hornet that I’ve ever heard,  which apparently was a European Hornet. Following the sound, I looked up to find a nest of giant wasps being built into the high stone wall on the patio. Knowing they were busy building the nest with little time to bother me, I finished hanging the wet laundry, hoping that they were just “looking” to build a nest.  Not the case.

Yesterday, again hanging laundry, their numbers had increased and we knew we had to contact Luca, the owner, and ask for his assistance. If we both weren’t allergic to bees, hornets, and wasps, we’d have taken care of it ourselves. It wasn’t worth the risk.

Contacting Luca by email, within hours we had a response translated to English. “No worry. We come to fix it tomorrow.”

At 10:00 am this morning, Lisa and Luca appeared at the door, with bags of “goodies” to help us, including laundry soap (we’ve supplied our own), cleaning supplies for Santina, items necessary to rid us of the hornet’s nest and “mosquito netting” for covering the windows in the kitchen, living room and master bedroom.  I jumped for joy! 

This en suite bathroom window will now provide a good breeze coming off the mountains at night when the temperature usually drops into the 60’s.

The thought of being able to chop, dice, and cook in the kitchen without bugs biting me made me squeal with delight. Being able to have a window open at night was beyond belief with it cooling down into the 60’s most nights. Having the window open in the living room while playing gin or watching a movie was more than thrilling. Oh, it’s the little things.

Lisa stapled most of the edges of this “mosquito” netting as screens for the windows.  This kitchen window attracted many flies and bees with frequent cooking going on each day.  We’ll keep an eye on it to ensure no gaps leave an opening for insects to enter.  We removed the Ziplock bag to keep flies at bay, moving it to another screen-less window we often keep open.

Lisa and Luca…amazing! As soon as they saw the email stating we needed their assistance with the hornet’s nest due to our allergies, they went to work on a solution making it possible for us to have windows open in this warm weather.

The netting wasn’t quite large enough to use a single piece.  Lisa and I agreed that two well-placed pieces would work on the living room window, close to where we frequently sit on the sofa to play Gin and watch movies.

Now as I write this, the nest is either dead or dying, the windows are covered and we couldn’t be happier.  On top of it all, while they were here working, Santina had placed a large bag of green beans and zucchini on the doorknob when we didn’t hear the doorbell.   Lisa had seen her drop them off, telling me when I questioned who had brought them.

I wish I’d heard her knock on the door when she dropped them off so I could’ve said, “grazie mille” (thank you very much) as I’d said over and again to Lisa and Luca, almost making a fool of myself with gratitude. 

Also, I wanted to thank Santina for the three pieces of “torte” which Tom tried this morning, finding them unusual but delicious. Due to the crusts made with flour, he only ate the insides, to find they were all “‘sweet” pies that one may eat for dessert, although they were made with vegetables. 

It killed me not to taste these. In my old life, those three different pies would have been right up my alley.  I won’t tell her that I couldn’t eat them and possibly hurt her feelings. (She doesn’t go online). But I will rave about the flavor of the pies enjoyed by Tom and the generous bag of the green beans and zucchini some of which we’ll have tonight with dinner.

The flowers are still on the ends of the zucchini, which we’d never see at a grocery store or farmers market.

How I long to bake many of my favorite recipes to share with these wonderful people!  Unfortunately, I can’t find the ingredients to make most American favorites. Maybe I’ll figure out an alternative soon, using the local ingredients. 

It’s the simple things in life that mean so much, isn’t it?
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My razor broke a few weeks ago. There are no less than 20 blades in our luggage that fit my old razor, now useless.  I can’t find a similar razor.  I shave every day. Foolishly, in the US before we left, I purchased a nifty women’s razor from Walgreens, their own brand.  They no longer carry it. 

While in Pescia at the larger grocery store, Esselunga, they were only a few options, mostly disposable razors.  The only non-disposable types were two that had a battery to enable it to “act” as an electric razor. (Had I purchased a larger brand name, I still wouldn’t have been able to find a replacement razor).

I’d be OK with the battery-operated type but they are heavy, not suitable for our luggage plus. Anything with batteries is an issue other than the most pressing items, such as a camera. Every ounce counts!

With no other options, I had no alternative but to purchase the disposable razors. Do I throw away the expensive blades? I guess so. 

During the week-long period when I had no razor, I used Tom’s razor, swapping out a separate blade each day, then putting his blade back. Cumbersome. Glad that’s over.

It’s the simple things. 

Its been over two weeks since I gave up Crystal Light Ice Tea, suffering no withdrawal. I’ve thought about it a few times each day as I sipped on the bubbly bottled water, tiring of it in a few days.  Plain water bores me.

Letting Tom use the remaining Crystal Light until gone allowing me to go “cold turkey,” he guiltily suggested that I make “real” ice tea. You know, tea bags and water.

Unable to remember the last time I made “real” iced tea, we looked online as to how many tea bags to use as opposed to how much water after we’d purchased a box of 50 Lipton teabags for US $2.25 (not a bad price).  It wasn’t easy to find the plain ice tea recipe. 

Who makes ice tea these days with many options available in the grocery stores?  I don’t drink regular soda with its tons of sugar not suitable for my way of eating.  If I did, there are no sugar-free options here, other than Diet 7-Up  and Coke Zero, neither of which I care to drink.

After a frustrating search online including at the Lipton site, I decided to try the suggested one teabag in one liter of water.  Horrible.  Too weak.  Later I added another teabag settling on this recipe:

  • Make 1/2 liter plain water in the coffee pot or teapot for hot water 
  • Drop two teabags in the hot water 
  • Let sit for 1/2 hour at room temperature
  • Remove and toss teabags
  • Add other 1/2 liter cold water
  • Add to taste, Stevia or liquid Splenda
  • Chill until cold, adding ice and lemon to an insulated mug

It’s palatable, although not as good as the Crystal Light.  There’s a little caffeine from the two teabags which is fine.  One could use decaffeinated teabags if caffeine is upsetting.

The 50 teabag box is enough to last for the remaining time we’ll be in Boveglio.  This one-liter container has been lasting for almost two days.

Wherever we may travel we’ll be able to find teabags, water, and ice.  As for the lemon; a cut lemon without preservatives only keeps a day or two in the refrigerator. I said goodbye to the lemon. It’s not worth tossing halves of lemons every few days although I appreciate the fact that the food here has no preservatives. The freezer is our friend, although it already needs to be defrosted again before our next grocery shopping.

Yes, it’s the simple things, the comforts in which we surround ourselves whether living on the road such as we do, packing for a weekend camping trip, or planning for a stay in a hotel.  We tend to gather the familiar items that help us feel “at home” and “at ease” adding to the pleasure of the time away.

Letting go of many of the comfort-related items from our past, embracing new items we’ve incorporated into our lives as replacements while adopting new comforts we’d never noticed or appreciated, is all part of the process of simplifying our lives. 

Ironically, all of this may change when we arrive at a new location.  Ironically, this is also OK with us.