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Wrapping up our trip to Blyde River Canyon Lodge…A treasured memory…

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The exquisite view from our room at the Blyde River Canyon Lodge, Hoedspruit, South Africa, where we stayed for three nights while we toured the many sites in the area.

It wasn’t an easy decision to leave Marloth Park for three days. One, we’re already paying for one home and to leave it empty to pay for another place to stay, makes us think twice. Two, I was afraid we’d miss visitors while we were away. (Tom didn’t quite feel the same – a guy thing).

The veranda and casual dining area in the Blyde River Canyon Lodge overlooks the pool and the expansive grounds.

However, if we had a permanent home, we’d occasionally take a three or more day trip out of town and the costs associated with owning the home would continue in our absence.

The door to our first floor guest room was conveniently located near the lounge, veranda and dining area.

What if the giraffes came to visit while we were away, maybe 12 of them as in the first time they wandered into our yard on a sunny morning in December? What if the wildebeests visited for the mineral lick, yet to occur in these almost past two months that we’ve been here?  What if Clive, our favorite Ostrich, lumbered down the driveway, proud and determined, while we were away?

We’d hope for time to use the pool, but our busy schedule made it difficult.

If any of these events occurred in our absence, we’d have never known. Yes, I did wander up and down our long driveway after returning on Saturday checking for animal tracks and piles of poop. There was plenty of both. 

The manicured grounds were a change after living in the bush these past almost two months.

Leaving Marloth Park wasn’t easy. The only way I could lessen my apprehension was to stay in an extraordinary place surrounded by nature. Blyde River Canyon Lodge filled the bill. We couldn’t have been more pleased. Need I say that we researched our option for several days?

On the grounds at the Blyde River Canyon Lodge, as a part of the lodge, is a separate luxury two-story guest cottage with a full kitchen, two bedrooms, large living area and inviting décor.

Based on recommendations from the wonderful locals, we met, especially our friends Piet and Hettie, the Panorama Route was the thing to see, not too far away, a pleasant mountain drive with incredible scenery.

The lounge in the lodge was tastefully decorated with the finest furnishings and accessories.
Alternate view of the lounge area. There’s a small bar to the far left of this area where a wide array of drinks and mixes are available. 

With an abundance of attractions in the area we chose those most appealing to us as shown here over the past several days: the Moholoholo Wildlife Rehabilitation Centre, the Blyde River Canyon boat ride and a visit to the Elephant Sanctuary, and finally, the Panorama Route, leaving us busy and out and about each of the three days that we stayed at the Blyde River Canyon Lodge.

This was our table for all of our meals, breakfast (included) and dinner at the end of each of our three nights at the lodge. We had no issue with insects in the morning or evening. Notice the zebras visitors who stopped by daily. It was fun to see them racing through the huge expanse of lawn as shown in the background.

Another day to stay at the lodge would have been ideal. But, we had to return the little pink car on the return trip to Marloth Park via the airport in Nelspruit. (More on that frustrating story later). 

This was a young Vervet Monkey (photo from afar) that we’d see playing together at dusk.

We had little time to enjoy the beauty of the lodge’s surroundings. Much to our pleasure, there were visitors stopping by early in the morning and again late in the day, the few times that we were able to be at the lodge, savoring every moment.

The huge gnarly trees created the perfect amount of shade for lounging comfortably outdoors on hot sunny days. 

As for the Blyde River Canyon Lodge, we found it to be the perfect choice for us, conveniently located to everything we wanted to see, affordable, and most of all, absolutely enchanting.

Who needs a lawnmower when Zebras cleanly dine on the grass?

The service was “over-the-top” by every staff member. The attention we received from the owner Vicky and her assistant Portia was appreciated and unexpected. 

A zebra was scratching on the tree while impalas leaped through the air with the ample open spaces.

This was the first time we’d seen zebras mating when all that have visited us in Marloth Park have been males. The zebras courtship rituals resulted in animated playfulness that we found entertaining as they chased and ran through the open spaces on the grounds.

The food at both the included breakfast and reasonably priced dinner served outdoors, couldn’t have been more suitable for my way of eating and to our mutual liking, freshly prepared with the finest of ingredients. The chef didn’t hesitate to meet with me to discuss my dietary restrictions in order to prepare my food accordingly.

At each meal, the table was set utilizing a new color scheme.  We never saw the same place setting twice during our six meals at the lodge.
At each dinner, a starter, an entrée, and a dessert were served. The chef made this special starter for me when the starter for the evening wasn’t conducive to my restrictive diet. It was so delicious I asked for it the second night to which they complied.

Tom splurged and enjoyed this delicious Berry Compote Panna Cotta. We were having such a fabulous time at dinner, I failed to take photos of our entrees, all of which were wonderful.

Tom usually doesn’t care for cheesecake, but he managed to get this down! I must admit, this one was hard for me to resist which I did without even a taste.

Our room, although a basic hotel room, was situated on the ground floor, close to the lounge area and outdoor seating, was spotless and in excellent condition with no signs of wear and tear. The bed and covers were comfortable with the air conditioning working perfectly for a good night’s sleep. The shower had excellent water pressure, something we recall from a life long ago.

As the Vervet Monkeys played on the lawn and in the trees, this young impala stood back, occasionally joining in the play.

Unfortunately, I didn’t sleep well while at the lodge. I was so excited to get outdoors, awaking each day at 4:00 am waiting for the sun to rise. Also, with a slow WiFi signal, typical for the area with the surrounding mountains, I was chomping at the bit to post our stories and photos which had to be accomplished in the early morning and finished in the evening.

The Vervet Monkey on the right was no larger than the size of a small cat. The smaller, on the left, could easily have fit into the palm of one’s hand. 

Typical for me on our “side holidays,” I slept poorly, fearful of missing something. Yes, I know. It’s a flaw of mine, one of many, driven by a brain that just won’t shut off when I’m having fun. It’s during the quiet, less stimulating times that I can sleep for seven hours.

The simplest of naturally occurring vegetation, growing next to a piece of driftwood, created a pleasant scene.

Our total cost for three-night stay at the Blyde River Canyon Lodge including dinners, drinks, and tips was US $582.27, ZAR $6200. The total cost of the lodge and the cost of the fees for the stated activities was US $886.42, ZAR $9438.50, also including gas/petrol to and from the area.

More natural vegetation highlighted the grounds.

Although this side trip wasn’t a bargain, we definitely felt that the quality of the experience was well worth the cost.  In our old lives, if we’d gone to Duluth, Minnesota, USA for three nights, we’d certainly have spent a comparable amount if including the cost of a four-star hotel, several attractions, meals, drinks, and gas/petrol.

Although a quaint, intimate facility, the Blyde River Canyon Lodge, with seven guest rooms plus the private luxury cottage, was offering the utmost amenities, service, and food, commensurate with a much larger high-end resort.

The private stand alone cottage was charming and well appointed.

The spacious living area and kitchen in the private cottage.

The master bedroom in the private cottage.

The second bedroom in the private cottage.

The master bath in the private cottage.

The view from the private cottage from the living room.

Tomorrow, we’ll share the frustrating story of the pink rental car which, by the way, we no longer have in our possession, or any vehicle for that matter and… What we’re doing for transportation over the remaining 38 days we’re living in Marloth Park. Plus, we have more new unseen photos to share.

Please stop back.

Happy New Year!…Two lively nights in a row…Fun with friends…How’d we get so lucky?…

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Last night at Jabula Lodge bringing in the New Year.

Neither of us can recall a time when we made friends with a couple “referred to us” by a couple we met in a restaurant and then another couple we met in a restaurant, of all things, on Christmas Day. 

Our new friends, Hettie and Piet, with whom we shared Christmas day dinner and again last night’s New Year’s eve celebration.

First, we met Lynne and Mick at Jabula Lodge, only three days after we arrived, ending up spending two great evenings with them before leaving to return to their second in Jersey, UK.

Leon, the owner of Jabula Lodge, and also a new friend will scream when he sees that we posted this photo of him from New Year’s Eve. He joined right into the fun with us and all of his and Dawn’s guests for the night.

They suggested to good friends Kathy and Don, who own a gorgeous home on the Crocodile River, to meet us for which they invited us to their home on Christmas Eve and then a second time a few days ago on December 30th.

To the left is Don’s cousin Sandy. Kathy, to the right, was, with her husband Don, our hosts for the pre-New Year’s braai at their lovely home overlooking the Crocodile River. It was our second visit to their home since Christmas Eve when they’d kindly and bravely invited us before we’d ever met.

Then on Christmas Day, we met Hettie and Piet (Pete) at Jabula Lodge, after which we’d planned to bring in the New Year together, again at Jabula Lodge, one of the very few restaurants in Marloth Park.  

From Tom on the left is Don, husband of Kathy and host. Next is Linda and Ken, friends of Kathy and Don’s who’s house in Marloth Park is currently rented over the holidays resulting in them staying with Kathy and Don for several days in their home. To the far right, is again Sandy, Don’s cousin, also from South Africa as was everyone but us.

This upcoming Friday, we’ll celebrate both Hettie and Piet’s birthdays, a few days apart, at a Portuguese restaurant in Komatipoort. After lunch, we’ll grocery shop and purchase more data for our SIM cards. Perfect!

After three days of rain, it was great to see a colorful sunset from Kathy and Don’s third-floor veranda, where we dined and conversed at length.  
More color in the sky from Kathy and Don’s veranda on Monday evening.

Unfortunately, all of these wonderful new friends are leaving, or already have, returned to their other homes, leaving us to make more new friends, a relatively easy proposition in the friendly Marloth Park. 

The Crocodile River before the three days of torrential rain, taken from Kathy and Don’s third-floor veranda on Christmas Eve.
The Crocodile River after three days of torrential rain also taken from Kathy and Don’s third-floor veranda.

































One would think we’d make friends with other tourists as we travel the world. But, this only occurred on cruise ships, several of whom we’ve stayed in touch. The remainder of the friends we’ve made has been homeowners and residents of the areas in which we’ve lived.  

This was my T-Bone steak purchased at the Butchery in Marloth Park, which was ZAR $440, US $4.41. Tom’s was the same approximate size. Cooked for me by Ken, it was moist, tender, and delicious.  Often when hosting a braai, the guests bring their chosen cut of meat while the hosts serve beer and other beverages,  side dishes, salad, and dessert. 
After adding delicious sauteed onions and mushrooms and an avocado Greek salad, my plate was complete. Of course, as always I ate every morsel.

We’ve assumed that the ease in making friends is due to the extended periods we’re living in vacation homes during which, in a sense, we become local residents. Regardless of the reason, we’re loving our busy social life.

We shot these kudu photos from Kathy and Don’s third-floor veranda.

Spending 24 hours a day together, which I might add, we thoroughly enjoy as well, we do find it refreshing to socialize with people with whom we enjoy much in common. Each of these three couples has traveled extensively, often to places we’ve already visited in our own travels, making for lively conversation.

A new male warthog visitor to our yard who’d arrived yesterday with a small female, neither of which we’ve seen in the past. The mating ritual had seemingly been in the beginning stages.  He was the largest warthog we’ve seen so far, difficult to determine in the photo. Hopefully, they’ll return.
She kept nudging him for attention.  But he wasn’t quite ready for the big event, at least not in our yard.

In addition, each of these three couples, still find themselves enraptured by the wildlife in Marloth Park. What stories we’ve all shared about our experiences with visitors! And the laughter…Ah, the laughter, is the best part of it all.

Shortly after the courting couple left, this young mom appeared with her four babies, the smallest babies, we’ve seen thus far, perhaps only a few weeks old.
Suddenly, mom decides it’s time to nurse, stopping dead in her tracks. Immediately, the babies know it’s feeding time and they happily latch on to one of her four nipples. Female warthogs rarely give birth to more than four offspring based on the availability of only four nipples. Nature provides for itself.  Amazing!

So, we welcome the New Year filled with the hope of making many new friends as we continue on our travels.  It’s hard to imagine that in two months from today, we’ll arrive in Marrakesh, Morocco, switching gears from a divine wildlife experience to a profound cultural experience in the hustle and bustle of one of the most diverse and interesting cities in the world.

Yesterday, a lone kudu stopped by, nibbling on the lush vegetation after the three days of rain. He stuck his head in between these small branches near our braai, next to the pool.  What a majestic animal!  We never tire of their visits. Female kudus rarely make an appearance in our yard, although we’ve seen a few.  Males and females don’t hang out together once the mating is complete. We often wrongfully assume that most animals mate for life when actually few we’ve seen in Marloth/Kruger Parks do so.

For now, we’ll put future travels aside to continue to embrace this magical place as we patiently await the next batch of visitors in our yard. I wonder who it will be today. The anticipation itself is a divine part of the adventure.

This same kudu in the above photo stood at the railing waiting for “people food.”  Many tourists over the holidays go nuts giving the wildlife “people food” which, unless fresh vegetables, is generally ill-advised. However, the rangers in Marloth Park suggest providing nutritional pellets or mineral licks, which we’ve done.  Notice the notches in the Kudu’s ear, either from fighting with other kudus during the mating season or in combat with other wildlife.  Kudus are non-aggressive animals and herbivores.

Thanks to all of our new friends in Marloth Park for freely welcoming us into this unbelievably fulfilling and joyful location which we’ll always remember as being the most friendly we’ve encountered in our travels.

Happy New Year to all of our readers. May each one of you find a way to “step outside the box” if only for an hour or a day, to reach for your dreams, whatever they may be.

Sunset game drive in Kruger Park…Dining in the bush…The Big 5 hovering…First loves…

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With mating season essentially ended, our guide said these 2 males were “practicing” dominance for next season.

A phenomenon has occurred in our world travels, first loves, a syndrome hard to avoid when on a path of many new experiences.

Sitting back several rows in the huge open game drive vehicle, it was difficult to take photos of this Kudu as he crossed the road so I took this one through the blue tinted windshield.

On January 3, 2013, Tom and I embarked on our first cruise on the Celebrity Century, an older renovated ship, reminiscent of the “old Hollywood days,” a style we both found appealing. The maximum number of passengers was 1770 with a crew of 858, a fact we especially enjoyed as a smaller ship than most. 

These warthogs appeared to be of a different species than those that have previously visited.

The ship was headed through the Panama Canal, a dream of Tom’s on which I gladly ‘tagged along” knowing he’d be “tagging along” with me in my dreams of Africa. Little did we know at the time, that we’d end up loving each other’s  dreams as well as our own, as we sit on the veranda again this morning after two batches of visitors have already come and gone, leaving us smiling and grateful.

Impala families were hanging out in Kruger National Park.

That cruise on the Celebrity Century was extraordinary, although neither of us had a frame of reference until we sailed on seven more cruises as we moved into the New Year. In the end, our first experience was the best, perhaps never to be outdone.

Bird-watching enthusiasts went wild with the many sightings in Kruger Park at sunset, including viewing this eagle at quite a distance.

This isn’t to say that the cruises that followed were inferior in any way. They were just different. Maybe it is tied to some romantic notion of that first feeling of excitement and adventure. Perhaps is comparable to our own memories of our first loves. 

This vulture was high atop a distant tree, one of several we sighted along the drive-in
Kruger Park.

Appropriately, we have now named this phenomenon “The Celebrity Century Syndrome.” As we find ourselves enthralled each day living in Marloth Park, we imagine we’ll never again find an experience such as this.  Where, I ask you, in the world would one have wildlife, to this degree, to this frequency, wandering around their house?

Another Vulture sighting, again far from the road.

Last night, once again, we fell prey to our “syndrome” in the game drive into Kruger Park, one of the largest game reserves in the world. The ‘first love” in this case, was our safari in the Masai Mara in Kenya, beginning on October 5, 2013, a mere 60 days ago, a tough act to follow.

More impalas.

Kruger Park is huge at over 2 million hectares, 7722 square miles, literally filled with wildlife. It has a rich ancient history and a geological history shared with us by our knowledgeable guide on the over-sized open game vehicle in which we traveled for approximately four hours with sixteen other guests.

Yes, power lines were running through Kruger Park, a necessary reality due to its enormous size and requirement for safety, security, and maintenance.

As explained to us during the sunset drive, Kruger Park doesn’t allow off-road travel into the bush. Thus, we were subject to seeing only the wildlife that appeared within view along the road. This was a limitation we hadn’t experienced in the Masai Mara.

As we entered the bush braai site, Danie was on the left with a raised arm, and Louise was on the right. They worked hard to host this event, cooking, setting up, and cleaning. Everything was to perfection. To top it off, they appeared in our driveway this morning to inquire about anything we may need.  Their hard work and dedication are evidenced in every activity they host and property they manage. This photo and the next were taken before I realized I needed to clean the camera lens.

When Anderson, our guide in the Masai Mara, saw a point of interest with his eagle eye and powerful binoculars, he took off expertly maneuvering the sturdy open-sided Land Cruiser across the rough terrain of the bush while the maximum of six of us, held on squealing in joyful anticipation of what was yet to come.

The candlelight place settings were befitting an elegant dinner. No paper plates here! All prepared for our group of 17 to perfection. The camera lens was humid, resulting in these blotchy photos.

Last night, with the sun setting on a cloudy evening, the requirement that we couldn’t use a flash, with the limitations of the camera I can manage with the bad shoulder and the limitation of staying on the road, we were disappointed in our photos. For those who have never been on safari, this may have been enough to fulfill their expectations. For us, the Celebrity Century Syndrome kicked in.

In any case, we did have a wonderful time last night. The guide was an over-the-top expert on the wildlife and the history and geological aspects of the park; the guests were lively and animated, and we enjoyed it all.

Not quite the jumbo sized beer in Kenya, Tom had a few of these during dinner.

Louise and Danie, our “hosts extraordinaire” were busy setting up the phenomenal meal, beautifully presented, truly in the bush and not at a campground. The linen napkins, lovely dinnerware and the beautifully set tables created a venue befitting an elegant dinner.

Unfortunately, our new friends from the UK, Lynne and Mick, are returning home on Tuesday. Had they stayed longer we certainly would have shared many more evenings with them.

Much to my delight, there was plenty of items I could eat. They’d made a special point of ensuring that there were several items befitting my way of eating. I so appreciated their delicious efforts.

More new friends from the UK at our table, also seasoned world travelers with considerable experience in many countries in Africa.

But, what they had made that worked for me was flavorful, well seasoned, and cooked to perfection. My plate was piled high with wonderful meats and veggies, some of the likes I’d never seen but hope to see again.I’d expected that the food had been catered by a local restaurant only to discover that Louise and Danie have made everything themselves.

Arriving at the bush dinner, we were surprised and grateful to find a restroom facility roughly put together. This particular site is frequently used as a “bush braai” location. The gate around the toilet area was smashed.  Louise explained that the rhinos were responsible. We laughed.

The entire bush braai dinner was unlike anything we’d ever experienced before, surely putting “bush braai” into the first love category. Seated with the lovely couple we’d met at Jabula Lodge on Wednesday night and good friends of theirs, all of whom were from Jersey, UK, our table of six had an excellent dinner, laughing, talking and educating us on the numerous insects wandering about on our drinks and plates. 

Seasoned travelers to many countries in Africa and as homeowners in Marloth Park, they gave nary a thought to the multitude of walking and flying insects, making every effort to educate us on their purpose and benefit. This did put help us by reframing some of our thoughts about certain insects, putting us more at ease.

Appetizers of grilled prawns (they don’t call them shrimp outside the US) and Boerewors, a frequently served South African sausage. Notice the dinner plates are upside down to keep the bugs off of them. I failed to take more food photos.  We were too busy having fun!

However, during dinner, we notice a crowd gathered around one of the other tables for six to discover they were looking down at the ground at a scorpion. One of the diners had open-toe shoes, and Louise and Danie gave her two empty wine boxes to cover her feet. Oh, dear.

I used my LED flashlight several times during dinner to check the ground beneath me. Of course, the others chuckled over my frequent inspections. I suppose in time, I will become as fearless as they seem to be.

As we dined, several armed guards with spotlights were perusing the area around us. They had used torch lights to set up a perimeter where we were required to stay. Oddly, busy chatting with everyone, we didn’t give the prospect of any intrusions by wildlife a thought.

The only wildlife we’d seen thus far, near the braai area, was a hippo. Hippos have proven to be the most dangerous animal to humans, with the highest incidence of fatalities worldwide. He seemed disinterested in us and took off.

To all of our delight, coupled with a bit of trepidation and with rifles aimed and readied by the guards, a herd of elephants, as many as a dozen, walked past our braai. We all held our breath in the excitement of seeing them within 30 meters of our table, never turning our way or looking at us.

The largest female, the matriarch, appeared to hold up the rear of the line while the moms and babies stayed cocooned in the middle. Unable to take photos with the flash restrictions (rightfully so), it was impossible to get a photo. But, the sight and sounds of the graceful steps of the Elephants in the bush will be illuminated in our minds forever.

The crescent moon in South Africa is positioned differently than we’d seen in Kenya.  How interesting!

It was an amazing evening, responsible for several “Celebrity Century Syndrome” first love moments that we’ll add to our repertoire of memories of adventures that we’ll carry with us wherever we may be.

Tonight, we’re going out on yet another sunset drive, right here in Marloth Park, as guests of Vic, Executive Director of Royal Kruger Lodge, followed up by their popular Boma Dinner.

Of course, we’ll be back tomorrow with more photos and stories to tell.

Plus, we’ve had seven sets of visitors so far this morning. Can’t wait to share.

Friday night’s unappetizing dinner experience…Last trip to Nakumatt…Saturday night’s final dinner at Sails Restaurant…

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While playing Gin on Saturday, this gecko appeared on one of the pillars supporting the roof. Its feet moved in a sticky manner, using each toe in the process seemingly all going in different directions.

To compare Friday night’s dinner at a popular local restaurant to Sails Restaurant was like comparing dining on a can of Spaghetti-O’s to experiencing a gourmet meal of fresh-caught grilled lobster tail, prepared to perfection.  There’s simply no comparison.

On Friday night, Hans and Jeri asked us to double date for dinner at a local haunt that typically has been good for them. Not for a moment would we question their taste in good food. However, it must have been an “off night” for the cook. Thus, we won’t attempt to tarnish their reputation by our dismal review by mentioning the name of the restaurant. 

That’s not our style. If we have something “good” or “excellent” to say, we don’t hesitate to mention the name and at times, include the link for travelers who may be reading from afar. 

In the event of inferior quality food or service, we tend to stay mum showing our disdain by not returning a second time. With a week remaining until we leave Kenya, a second visit would have been highly unlikely. 

Tom’s hair was blowing with his back to the wind at Sails Restaurant.  The cool ocean breeze was heavenly.

Thus, I felt compelled to share the first instance in Kenya of a challenge in getting my meal cooked properly to fit my way of eating. Also, for those of you choosing to embark on this manner of eating to improve your health, it’s important for us to share less than ideal situations in the event you encounter occasional dining out fiasco.  It is bound to happen.

Of course, Hans and Jeri, our dinner companions were as engaging as always and the conversation was enjoyable. Driving with them was a nice break from a taxi. Hans’ engine of his car blew long before we arrived and it is still in the shop three months later, leaving him no option but to rent a car. 

The restaurant, not on the ocean, had no breeze and was hot and humid. Dressed in our BugsAway long-sleeved clothing, the entire time we were in the restaurant we were sweating more than ever. It’s no wonder we love dining on the sea with the cooling ocean breezes! Being hot and uncomfortable, almost served as a warning to me that it was going downhill from there. Indeed it did!

I equally enjoyed the cool ocean breeze at Sails. Not so much at Friday night’s dinner at an off the ocean restaurant.

The menu was tricky.  Many items were in thick floury and sweet sauces. My choices were limited to grilled fish and vegetables, which I often order in one form or another, usually pleased with the result. Not on Friday night!

Ordering the grilled red snapper, after giving the server my restrictions list to show to the cook written in Swahili on my smartphone, he returned to the table assuring me that it was no problem. By the time our food arrived, it was 9:00 pm and we were all ready to dine. (We hadn’t left the houses until 8:00 pm since most local residents dine much later than our usual 7:00 pm).

Once the plate was set in front of me, I immediately knew something wasn’t right. The thin snapper fillet was covered in a browned batter, most likely coated in flour. Gently, I asked the server to go ask the chef what was on the outside of the fish. He returned saying, “A little flour.”

Again in a kindly tone, I said, “Please tell the cook to start over, grill the fish, no flour, no batter, no coating, just plain. Plus remove all the vegetables and replace them with freshly cooked vegetables. It is dangerous to my health for the flour to touch the food.”  

Moments later, we heard the cook raising his voice in the kitchen. Ouch! Was he rambling on about my food? 

I encouraged the rest of our table to go ahead and eat their food while it was hot and I’d catch up later.  A new plate of food didn’t arrive until 9:25. This piece of fish was flatter yet, perhaps 1/4″, .6 cm,  and was fried in some greasy substance, swimming in grease on my plate. It was so thin, it didn’t have any fleshy portion on the inside of the crisped exterior. The “new” vegetables were on a side plate, were also swimming in grease and grossly over-salted, inedible.

Not wanting to make a further scene, especially when everyone else’s food was palatable, I ate the fish out of desperation, never saying another word. (Hans tasted my vegetables and agreed they were inedible).

By 10:00 pm, after we turned down an invitation to accompany Hans and Jeri at the local disco, we chose the offered ride back to the house, where they dropped us off to go back out. With discos staying open until 5:00 am, neither of us could imagine spending the night in a smokey (smoking is allowed in bars and restaurants), a hot, noisy disco with no AC. 

Returning to our house, still wearing our BugsAway clothing, we decided to watch a movie after I grabbed a bowl filled with raw macadamia nuts, almond and cashews and turned on the fan. That was our Friday night.

On Saturday morning at 10:00, Alfred drove us to Nakumatt for our final grocery shopping, spending KES $8800, US $101, to include three more jugs of water and limited amounts of food items to complete the five remaining meals we planned to cook before leaving, dining out on the remainder.

At promptly 7:00 pm, Alfred, returned again to take us to dinner at one of our favorite restaurants, Sails at the Almanara Resort. Being our last time to dine at Sails, I decided to have the grilled seafood platter, the same entrée I’d had on our first visit. Tom had the Crab Au Gratin, the same item he’d had on a previous visit.

Tom’s Crab Au Gratin was as delicious as the last time he’d ordered it.

One would assume that a grilled seafood platter wouldn’t have flour, grain, sugar, or starch but I didn’t hesitate to ask the chef to read my list. As it turned out the chef didn’t speak Swahili.  We could hear the waiter translating it for him from afar, causing us to chuckle.

The seafood platter was smaller than the first time, saltier, and very greasy. Gee, did those two chefs from each night, talk to one another? I ate it anyway with nary a mention. So it goes. It’s only food. Right? I’m certainly not starving from a lack of nourishment.

As we dined, we both reveled in the cooling ocean breeze, wicking all the droplets of sweat seemingly stuck on our skin for hours. We sat at our usual table closest to the sea. The dining area is under huge canvas sails with giant windows that can be closed in the event of rain or inclement weather. A tourist couple opposite us started complaining that it was too windy for them to eat, insisting that the canvas be lowered to close the windows.

My dinner at Sails was too heavy on the oil, very different from the first time I’d ordered this entrée.

We were disappointed to lose the cooling breeze as the server hesitantly lowered it when he heard all of the other guests complaining about the shade coming down, blocking the wind and the view. “The squeaky wheel gets the grease,” so they say. 

How annoyed we all were with the squeaky wheel! At that point, we started sweating again, anxious to finish eating, and be on our way. Why tourists will make fools of themselves, demanding to do it “their way” escapes us. 

From Friday’s less than palatable dinner, for which we paid full price, to Saturday night’s less than perfect seafood platter, we’ve found that gracious acceptance goes a long way over demanding exclamations of annoyance. Also, one must consider that that complaining in a public environment could result in a dangerous situation.  We’re not chumps. We chose this life. Sometimes it is not what we expected or desired. We do the best we can.

Over a year ago, when this journey began, we decided we’d accept a situation as long as our health, well being, and safety weren’t at risk. 

Before arriving at this house in Kenya, we had no idea from the photos that there was no inside living room, sofa, or place to sit.  Had we known that, we’d have chosen another property. Would I now ask, whenever we rent a vacation home, “Does it have a living room?” Is that some lesson we needed to learn? 

But, in the end, we accepted the situation, adapting to spending 16 hours a day living outdoors, making some wonderful new friends, spending fun time with Jessie and Gucci, and experiencing the most amazing adventures of our lives while living in Kenya.

Perhaps, we’ve learned a lesson in the process. We may have become tougher than we’d have ever imagined.

Ouch, a bug just bit my foot. I swatted it off.  No squeal, no gasp, and only a slight mention to Tom, who shrugged. I grabbed the repellent and lathered up one more time.

Not so pretty things…Archaic male and female roles…Dining at the most exquisite resort in Diani Beach…photos, photos and more photos!

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Color at sunset from our outdoor living room.

Loss of water a few nights ago put Tom in a tither when we were preparing to go to the Swahili Beach Resort for dinner. He was mid-shower soaped up from head to toe when suddenly there was no water. Using bottled water he rinsed off as well as possible.  Luckily, awhile later we had water again.


We’d never noticed the amber eyes on these lizards until taking this photo.

Yesterday, in the 90F (32C) weather, humidity visible in the air, I grabbed one of the two wood cutting boards to take outside to chop and dice veggies while sitting at the glass table in our outdoor living room. We were having a Mexican roast beef salad, perfect for a hot evening.  


Tom’s hair still had shampoo in it when the water went off during his shower before we headed out to the Swahili Beach resort for a fabulous dinner, described with photos below.

Often its too hot to stand in the tiny galley kitchen to chop and dice and I’ve often chosen to take it outside.  Placing a clean towel on the table, the cutting board and a sharp knife and I’m good to go.  Keeping a close eye on potential crawling or flying visitors I chop away, jumping up numerous time to place each item in a bag in the refrigerator while I return to do more.

Luckily, I’d showered hours before him.  

As I placed the wooden board on the table to begin chopping, I must admit, I shrieked.  On the board was a no less than 6″ (15 cm) centipede, my nemesis, my most feared crawling thing so far, that inflicts a bite that is not only poisonous but may require a hospital visit and treatment. 


The entrance to the Swahili Beach Resort.

What do I usually do when the insect is horrifying? Call for Tom.  Now, please understand that I’ve always been an independent women, capable of taking care of myself.  For many years, I lived alone in our old lake house (before Tom) after the boys were grown and out on their own. 


If a creature ventured into the house, I took care of it, setting traps if necessary or devising a plan. I was never the “helpless” woman. 


For some odd reason and for the first time in my life, once Tom entered my life over 22 years ago, his loving “take care of my woman” persona became evident, allowing me to lighten up a bit and letting him step in to the rescue.  Mind you, relinquishing this “take charge” attitude didn’t come quickly or easily.  It evolved over these past 22 plus years.


One beautifully appointed lounge area after another at Swahili Beach Resort.

In the past year since leaving the US, I’ve totally let go, letting him be “the man.” Most of my girlfriends will admonish me for this stereotypical, archaic attitude but when it comes to creepy crawling or flying things, heavy lifting and checking out scary noises, I have no problem. 


Every area was decorated with the finest of furnishings.

As for other decisions, well, you know the rest if you’ve been reading many of our posts.  A headstrong, determined “know it all” I’ve forged my way into an equal stance with my equally headstrong, determined “know it all” husband. I often brag (to him) that my method is subtle and diplomatic whereby his method can be pushy and irritable.  In any case, magically, we get along extraordinarily well, seldom ruffling each other’s feathers.

The bar was inviting and comfortable.  We were anxious to get to the buffet
as it neared 8:00 pm.

So, Tom bravely took the wood cutting board from my hands, shook off the centipede to the ground and stomped, crunched, stomped, crunched until it was nothing but a gag inducing mess.  When Hesborn arrived later in the day, I asked him to remove the ugly moist turning moldy cutting boards from this house, never asking for another.  He did.


The walkway toward the pool area. 

I’m sorry I didn’t taken a photo of the centipede on the board.  I had an awful squeamish look on my face for hours and could hardly think of anything else.  Somehow food and centipedes wasn’t a good mix for me.


The walkway over one small arm of the vast swimming pool.

A short time later, Hesborn appeared with what looked like a new cutting board and I jumped for joy.  One only need ask Hesborn or Hans for anything and they happily comply.  Why hadn’t I asked for a new cutting board after fiercely scrubbing and bleaching these two rotting boards day after day?


The dining area by the buffet, although not air conditioned as most restaurants, had a bit of an ocean breeze but was still fairly warm for comfortable dining.

Then, yesterday around 5:00 pm, the power went out.  Within 90 minutes, Hans had the generator working and we were able to prepare dinner as the sun went down.  We dressed in our BugsAway clothing and proceeded to have a lovely evening as usual.


The salad were fresh and cold, many of which I could pile onto my plate.

Also, yesterday, we decided it was time to check out our luggage in preparation for packing, only to discover that the zippers on my single large suitcase was completely corroded from the humidity and salt water air.  It wouldn’t budge.  This was worrisome.  There isn’t a store within hours where we’d be able to purchase a large piece of luggage, nor would time allow for shipping. 



The crab, vegetable and apple salad had no added sugar so I picked out the few chunks of the apple.  The salad on the right containing rice was off limits. 

Asking Hesborn for spray can of lubricant, he quickly darted off, returning minutes later with a can.  Spraying the zipper thoroughly, Tom was unable to get it to work.  Finally, this morning, we asked Hesborn for a pair of pliers, a word he wasn’t familiar with.  I pinched my fingers together to convey the message and he got it, returning only a minute later with pliers.  Now, we were in business! 

The chicken satay were made for me without soy sauce and sugar.

Tom went to work on the zipper with success.  What a relief!  That could have been quite a disaster. Soon, we’ll tackle the packing. It’s been difficult to get motivated in this heat and humidity.

The cooking stations were manned by conscientious cooks catering to my every need. This dish normally made with flour was done so using chicken broth and cream, reduced to a creamy sauce.
The steamed veggies on the left were acceptable but the creamed item on the right was not.  Without the chef’s assistance, this would have been obvious to me.

As for the dining experience on Saturday night, after Tom had removed some of the soap but not all from his hair, we were off for the Swahili Beach Resort.

With 21 restaurants listed and rated on TripAdvisors, one would think choosing where to dine would have been a breeze.  Not the case. With a wide range of reviews ranging from “best dinner ever” to “don’t waste your time” we’re always in a quandary as to where we’ll dine next.


My salad plate.

With a mere 11 days until leaving Kenya coupled with a plan to use our remaining groceries, we expect to dine out less than we’d originally planned.  After counting the possible number of meals remaining in our inventory, its likely we’ll dine out two more times after tonight, when we’ll be returning to Blue Marlin which has had consistently good food. 


My divine plate of food from the Swahili Beach buffet.  That’s not pasta in the red sauce.  It’s grilled calamari, kind of like a squid spaghetti. without noodles.   

With a not-uncommon hit and miss with some of our prior favorites, we’ve decided to repeat those that have been most consistent.  Our previous try-something-new plan has gone by the wayside as we’ve run out of options and most amazingly, time.


This past Saturday as shown in these photos, we tried the Swahili Beach Resort by far, the most luxurious resort we’ve visited thus far with over-the-top service, food and ambiance. Dark when we arrived, we’d wished we’d come earlier to see the amazing décor, the massive infinity pool, the gardens and the beach. 



Watermelon carving seems to be quite the art as we’ve observed in many countries.  Those
are small cuts of cake with mango slices on the plate in front of the carving.

Surprisingly, it too had mixed reviews which may have influenced avoiding it until these last few weeks.  Had we known how wonderful it would be, we would have made it a regular on our list.  For KES $1400, US $16.41 per couple per day, we could have used their pool, if staying for meals. 


The dessert always look appetizing to me but only for viewing.  Tom hasn’t particularly cared for desserts in Kenya since they use less sugar than in the US. Not surprisingly, most of the locals are slim and fit in appearance. 

Impossible to lay outside at this house due to the bugs in the grass, we’ve missed our short stints in the sun which we also found nearly impossible in Tuscany, due to the bees.  Languishing by the pool in Belize was an experience we’ve missed.  Soon, in South Africa, we’ll have our own pool at our house which sun provided, gets us back into a little pool and sunning time.

I felt as if I was back on one of our 8 cruises with a cheese plate in front of me for dessert.

Swahili Beach Resort’s buffet blew us away!  Once I explained my dietary restrictions to the restaurant manager, showing my Swahili translation list on my phone, the head chef proceeded to walk me around the buffet showing me every item that fit my criteria. 

After I’d seen it all, he grabbed a plate for me, staying at my side as we walked from cooking station to station of freshly prepared items, adding food to the plate. 

When we reached the salad area, he grabbed a second plate, piling on more appropriate items, finally carrying my plates back to our table.  Tom, of course, busied himself piling food on his own plate, none of which contained any vegetables, as usual, all of which was off limits to me.  

Tom stood next to this hand carved wood sculpture to illustrate it’s massive size.

It was a memorable evening.  The total bill for our dinner including tip was KES $5300, US $62.13 and the round trip taxi fare, as always, was KES $1100, US $12.90.  The evening was pricier than usual but after the glorious experience, we hardly complained.


Power is back on.  Water is working. Suitcase zipper is working. New cutting board is ready for chopping and dicing for another eight meals and once again, we’re back on track. Will we return to Swahili Beach Resort one more time?  I don’t think so.  I don’t want to spoil the memory.

Last night’s unusual dining experience…Poisonous puffer fish?? Tom’s ruffled feathers…

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I would’ve loved to try the pufferfish (click to see NG’s pufferfish video), a deadly poisonous fish if not cleaned properly, but I passed since it was flour battered and fried. “Chips” in Kenya translates to French fries, not potato chips, which Tom promptly figured out.

With approximately 26 hotels/resorts along a 10.2 km (6.34 miles) stretch of beach across the road, there are plenty of dining options for our planned three dinners out per week.  We’ve tried many so far, with nine more dinners out to go until we leave Kenya on November 30th.

It’s a little surprising to us that we’re running out of repeat options.  The issues primarily revolve around Tom’s picky taste buds than my restricted way of eating. A decent piece of grilled fish, chicken or beef, a side of veggies and I’m content.  Tom, on the other hand, is a much more particular diner, although he’s willingly tried many new items in the past year. 

Much to my liking, many meals in Kenya are vegetable-based included eggplant, zucchini, cauliflower, carrots, and broccoli, all of which I can have. Unfortunately, many of the vegetable dishes are made with rice or flour, neither of which I can have.Tom only eats carrots and green beans. Thus, dining out is not always as easy as it may seem.
The entrance at the Baobab Resort and Spa. The white carving on the left of this appears out of place when in fact it was a post that was included in the photo. 

Last night we tried another resort new to us, Baobab Beach Resort and Spa, as we’ve made a point of doing as often as possible.\Oddly, few local residents dine at any of the resort’s restaurants. Each time our driver pulls up to the security gate at one of the resorts, the guards look inside the vehicle checking us out, asking why we’re there. 

When we explained that we have a dinner reservation, they looked surprised. Of course, we appreciate their conscientious “guarding” of each property. Most diners are hotel guests of the resort rather than “outsiders” like us.

Having made a reservation for last night’s dinner on Monday, receiving an email confirmation as required to get beyond the gates, we felt confident that our arrival would be welcomed and seamless. Last night, it was quite different than with past reservations.

The resort lobby had multiple lounging areas.  Crooked lamp shade.

After going through two guarded gates, Alfred dropped us off at the main entrance to the resort as the well-dressed security guard greeted us with the often-used enthusiastic “hujambo” (“hello”, the “h” is not pronounced); “karibu” (welcome) to which we responded, “hujambo” and “asante” (thank you). When explaining we were there for dinner only. He referred us to the registration desk. 

We explained that we were there for dinner, but the staff person couldn’t find our name in the system. Stymied, again, we explained we were not staying at the resort, but had a dinner reservation. 

The décor in many resorts is similar leaning toward somewhat of a Moroccan theme.

Then, he asked for written proof of our reservation. Although we always carry our passports and ID when going out, we’ve never been asked to provide written proof for a dinner reservation. The thought of digging out our travel printer for dinner reservations has never occurred to us.

After no less than 15 minutes while waiting at the desk with various staff members speaking to one another in Swahili, we were told that the only dining option was for the buffet, at KES $2000, US $23.45 per person, must be paid now at the reservations desk in advance. We’d never heard of such a thing. 

Preferring not to make a scene, plus with our driver already gone and with no other immediate dining options, Tom pulled out a credit card and paid the KES $4000, US $46.89 which included all fees and taxes (not tips).

The dining room at Baobab Beach Resort and Spa.

Upon signing the slip, the staff member explained that the buffet dinner included basic bar drinks and soda. I wondered why none of this was explained at the time of making the reservation; the price, the fact that it was a buffet, paying at the desk in advance and the drinks being included. Had that been the case, we would have been prepared, still keeping the reservation. 

Apparently, like an all-inclusive resort they were ill-prepared for “outsiders.” Surely, we couldn’t have been the first outsiders ever to arrive for dinner. It wasn’t that they weren’t kind and willing to assist. They just didn’t seem to know what to do with us.

Tom’s feathers were ruffled (although he kept it to himself) especially when we’d arrived early, thanks to Alfred’s substitute driver’s showing up 45 minutes prior to our requested pick-up time. We were told we’d be escorted to the restaurant when it opened in 15 minutes. 

When no one arrived to escort us, we headed to the restaurant on our own finding an excellent table for two by a window in order to take advantage of the ocean breezes. It was still very hot and we were both wearing long sleeves. Bugs? Heat? It’s often a trade-off.

Tom’s ruffled feathers.

From that point on, our evening was pleasant. By far, it was the greatest number of diners we’ve yet to see in any restaurant over these past months, most of which were European, based on the languages we heard spoken. 

At no time during our evening did we hear anyone speaking English, other than the Swahili speaking servers who were able to handle basic requests. We’ve often wondered if tourists from the US and Canada find this location too far to travel. After all, it is almost halfway around the world, further time-wise to travel than most people are willing.

The servers promptly brought our drinks, a beer for Tom, and bottled water for me (no ice tea available) and we headed to the massive buffet. With my smartphone with the still-cracked screen, I displayed the screen below with the Swahili translation for my food restrictions which has been extraordinarily useful. There were no lengthy lines at the buffet, although the area was filled with diners at the numerous food stations.

Basically, this boils down to the fact that I can have fish, chicken, pork, beef and non-starchy vegetables, nuts and mayo (the mayonnaise we’ve found here is made without sugar). No soy, no gluten, no starch, no sugary sauces, no potatoes,  no rice, no beans, and no desserts.   

As is often the case, the main chef is summoned, reads the list, nods in understanding, directing me to the foods that are acceptable. It’s actually easy. Of all the foods offered last night, I was able to have approximately 25% with many variations of grilled, sautéed, and steamed vegetables and a wide array of grilled meats, fish, lamb, and chicken.

My plate of coleslaw without dressing was cold and refreshing.

Much to Tom’s pleasure, he was able to have roast beef and mashed potatoes, although he tried several other offerings. (He eats whatever he wants when we eat out since I do all the cooking my way when we dine in). He feels well and isn’t gaining weight.  Of course, I’d love for him to stick with my way of eating all the time.  

Finally, many months ago I gave up staring at his plate of food, giving him the evil eye, and making less than subtle comments such as, “Are you really going to eat that?”  Now I say nor imply anything derogatory about his food choices when we dine out when he doesn’t complain about my healthful cooking when we dine in.

I was thrilled with this huge plate of food by the time we started eating, close to 8:30 pm.

Will we go back to Baobab?  Yes, we will now that we know “the drill.” The food was very good, the choices many and the ambiance and service were both good.

Tonight and tomorrow nights we’ll dine in. Extremely hot and humid again, a cold dinner is on the menu for both nights, our favorite subway type unwich, sandwich using lettuce leaves instead of bread, a side of fresh green beans, our usual coleslaw, and nuts for dessert. 

Although I couldn’t have this rice salad, I loved the presentation.
Tom visited the dessert bar for a few items, but of course, I just took a photo. It was early in the evening, the buffet not opening until 7:30 pm, and the dessert table was already being restocked.

Bringing up another great episode of The Blacklist on my laptop for a typical Sunday night here in Kenya, we began batting off the creepy crawlies, swatting off the mosquitoes and flying ants and, using our flashlights to check for poisonous crustaceans in every crevice or corner before we go to bed. 

But…dear readers, we’re content. 

The long hallways were lined with these lounging beds.  After dinner, they were filled with overstuffed guests, sipping on after dinner drinks.  Tom insisted on a photo after I’d shot his grumpy pose.  I complied.

Today, we’re published on Dr. David Perlmutter’s website, Grain Brain! ..See article below…

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After hitting our top numbers of over 100,000 readers on our site, the opportunities for us continue to grow.  In addition to attracting the interest of new advertisers (we’ll be posting new links in the next few days, removing the old), we also have the opportunity to share our story on related websites. 

A few weeks ago, I suggested a book I’d read, Grain Brain, by Dr. David Perlmutter, a renowned neurologist, backed by years of diligent scientific research that further exemplified the reasons why I’ve gone to the extremes of my restrictive diet for the past 2 1/2 years.  This diet ultimately changed my health to such an extent, that finally I could be mobile, able to travel the world.

After reading Dr. Perlmutter’s book, I contacted him and his media department who enthusiastically asked me to share my story of renewed health with his readers. 

Please click here for our now published story, part of which is listed below. 

Recently, Dr. Perlmutter appeared on the Dr. Oz TV show.  Click here and scroll down the page for the informative and surprising video about brain health.

Jessica L. Grain Brain Success Story

Jessica L.

Jessica’s story is truly inspiring. Her battle back to better health is the kind of empowerment I hope to facilitate with Grain Brain. Adopting a Grain Brain-friendly lifestyle not only gave Jessica back control of her health, but her entire life. – Dr. Perlmutter
As a travel writer with a somewhat unusual story of having sold everything my husband and I valued and owned, with no storage, on Halloween, one year ago, we left our lifetime home, family, and friends to travel the world and write about our daily adventures and share photos.
Just one year prior to that, I wasn’t able to go to any of our grandchildren’s ballgames, unable to sit on bleachers, due to excruciating pain that encompassed my entire body due to severe spinal degeneration.
Having been told the only solution was a total spinal fusion from C1 to L5, I spent an entire year researching medical studies online in search of an answer for my unbearable pain, horrible lipid profile, pre-diabetic state and recurring abnormal lymphocytes and neutrophils, requiring 2 bone marrow biopsies revealing abnormal bone marrow regeneration but, luckily, no cancer. Alzheimer’s Disease and dementia are rampant in my family history.  My own memory was fading fast (I am now 65 years old).
In August 2011, after reading Gary Taubes, Dr. William Davis, Dr. Michael Eades and dozens more, along with suggested links to studies, I was determined that a change in diet was my only hope. Immediately, I embarked on a low-carb, gluten-free, grain-free, starch-free and sugar-free diet.
It took 3 months to see a change. One morning I awoke and could actually stand up when I put my feet on the floor, a first in years.  The pain was gone, never to return in 27 months.  I never consume a morsel of food that doesn’t fit my criteria, basically everything you describe in your book.  Of course, I tested negative for celiac disease, as you mentioned many do.
Several months later, I had a new lipid profile completed.  The year’s long abnormal lymphocytes and neutrolphils were normal.  All other tests were normal, something I hadn’t experienced in over 20 years. My HDL went from 38 to 72.  My triglycerides went from 256 to 52.
As a result of this phenomenal change, in January 2012, my husband (who also follows this manner of eating, lost weight and no longer has IBS, acid reflux, gas, etc), and I decided that on October 31, 2012, his retirement date, we would liquidate everything we owned; house, cars, household goods, clothing, jewelry to travel the world for years to come.  In a few days, it will be our one year anniversary of “living in the world” with no home to return to and we couldn’t be happier.
Finally, I fulfilled my lifelong dream of writing, of seeing the world. I could now travel, sit in an airplane, walk the streets of Venice, visit the towers of Dubai and make the long difficult trek to see Petra in Jordan.
As part of my blog/website, starting in March 2012, I’ve often discussed how to live in places such as Tuscany, Italy where we recently spent this entire last summer, without a taste of bread or pasta, never feeling deprived. For example, today, I posted last night’s dinner of Crusted Coconut (flour) Parmesan Chicken, a favorite recipe I created (I’ve always been a foodie). We’ve also been following “Oil Pulling” by Dr. Bruce Fife, using coconut oil as a daily mouth rinsing and yesterday, we began your suggestion of swallowing a teaspoon a day.
Yesterday, at the end of my post, I suggested your book, Grain Brain, which I downloaded a few days ago and couldn’t put down. You, Dr. Perlmutter, have put on “paper” the epitome of the gift of life I’ve been given by changing my diet.  Dr. William Davis, Dr. Robert Lustig and Jonathan Bailor have been a few of many who’ve been instrumental in my following this path.
Now, with your book, here is another amazing fact…my memory is better today than when I was in my 20′s.  About 10 years ago, I had a brain MRI showing a large portion of my frontal lobe missing. I know little about brain loss but I imagine that I’d have continued on the path of brain shrinkage had I continued eating “whole grain” products and high carb foods, (although I haven’t consumed sugar for many years). Instead, I consumed high carb fruits and vegetables and grains such as winter squash and corn, equally filled with sugar, all foods of my past.
As I sit here in the humid heat in Diani Beach Kenya, batting off the bugs and flies, I need only remind myself of the amazing safari we took in the Masai Mara only a few weeks ago, bouncing around on bumpy roads for 8 hours a day in the heat.  I couldn’t ride in the car for a 45 minutes drive to visit family or friends in my “old life.”
At 65, this way of eating is has given me back my life.  I’ll never go back.
-Jessica L.

Mini holiday has ended…Review of The Sands at Nomad…Cost for our stay…Surprising return to our home in Diani Beach…photos…

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Friday morning at The Sands at Nomad, 8:00 am. Low tide.
Our mini-vacation left us both relaxed as we walked the beach as we celebrated our first full year of travel.
The clean sand on the beach feels wonderful underfoot. It’s no wonder the resort is called The Sands at Nomad.

The past 3 days at The Sands at Nomad have been the perfect venue for celebrating our first year of worldwide travel. This fabulous resort epitomizes the fulfillment of expectations of the most discriminating traveler with its attention to detail, exemplary service, finest of amenities, excellent food, and relaxation-inducing environment.

The eye-catching view from our padded chaise lounges in the ocean front yard of our beach cottage.  It was amazing that no matter how hot and humid the day, sitting in the shade on these lounges continually kept us cool and refreshed. Although we were excited to have air conditioning, we seldom used it, preferring to spend our time outdoors to languish in the ocean views, the wildlife, and lush greenery.

In addition, it’s accommodations, sensitive to energy conservation, never left the guest needing more and if so, any reasonable request would graciously be provided. With one bath towel per person per suite per day, no washcloths, on and off switches for hot water, reminders to turn off the AC and the lights, we never felt short-changed, instead, appreciating this concerted effort of both management and staff.

This “house” kitty was fast asleep at the bar when we ordered our cocktails last night. Although some may be “offended” by a cat on the bar, we found it indicative of the homey atmosphere at The Sands at Nomad.
Many resorts along the beach have a “house” dog as an adjunct to security guards.  The fact that his older dog may no longer be the best watchdog and yet continued to be welcomed to stay, further exemplified our respect for the resort staff.

The mosquito netted bed was comfortable with lush sheets and blankets and soft pillows. The bathroom, although on the smallish side, was adequately equipped with toiletries.  The living area had a comfortable seating area with a TV, coffee table and a well-stocked mini-bar fridge where we were able to keep a fresh bucket of ice, we’d requested be delivered twice a day.

This tree referred to by the locals as an “upside-down” tree is due to its branches appearing to be more roots than branches. The constant care, maintaining the landscaping was a feature we appreciated.


As we were leaving today, we noticed the gardeners removing coconuts from the trees, not only to use in drink-making but to avoid guests being hit on the head. 

This coconut tree was no less than 50 feet tall and here is a resort worker sitting atop the branches, cutting off bunches of coconuts. We’d love to have seen him shimmy up or down the tree but it was check-out time and we’d needed to keep moving.

The décor is befitting the African theme embellished with a Moroccan influence with artwork, statues, and artifacts adding to the warm ambiance, allowing the guest, regardless of the length of stay, to feel at home. 

The monkeys, however pesky they may be, are treated with kindness and reverence by the staff, asking guests to do the same. This young woman came to call yesterday when we were dressing for dinner, once again peering in the window of our beach cottage for a possible fruit plate. As close as I was to the opposite side of the glass, through which I took this photo, she never backed off until finally, we opened the door to step outside.


Another adorable monkey visiting yesterday as we lounged on the veranda. We never tired of taking their photos of the varied expressions on their human-like faces.


This may be an older monkey.  It appears this one has a cataract in its left eye, possibly as a result of injury or old age.  In any case, this monkey appeared comfortable with one “hand” on our clothes drying rack.

Complimentary coffee and tea were offered at any time of day delivered to the suite. A bottled water dispenser with both hot and cold water was provided and the balance monitored daily. Teabags, instant coffee, cream, and sugar were also on hand.

No, I didn’t edit the mouth on the forward camel which appeared to be laughing.

The front ocean veranda appealed to us at all hours of the day and night, especially with the frequent visits by two breeds of monkeys, both large and small, often entertaining us.  The powerful ocean breezes kept us cool and comfortable, out of the hot sun. Two padded chaise lounges under an umbrella were attended to daily with fresh towels in our oceanfront yard. 

This photo, taken from a considerable distance, is rich in the beach culture on the Indian Ocean in Kenya, camels, and a Maaasai worker, side by side on the beach. From afar, it appeared the camel had 2 heads causing us to do a double-take, later to reveal in this photos, that it was these two “attached at the hip” camels. Now, they’re both laughing.


Camels strolling on the beach as we relaxed in our chaise lounges in the shade. The camel owners are constantly on the outlook for willing participants of which we only saw a few. At an average cost for a 20-minute ride at Kenya Shillings $2000 per person, US $23.59, there were few takers. As it turned out in our entire three days, we saw a total of 10 to 12 takers. With  numerous resorts along the beach, this was hard work for both the camels and owners, walking
in the hot sun all day.

The pool area, although clean, beautiful, and well situated had few sunny spots for sun worshippers so we opted to do our short sunning periods on our own chaise lounges each day. 

On the first day, many of the elusive Colobus monkeys created the perfect backdrop of entertainment as we lounged by the pool. After that first day, we never again saw another Colobus monkey, although we looked several times over the remaining days. 

Luckily, we were able to post our many Colobus monkey photos including our favorite below which we’ve posted here today, one more time for those who may have missed it while busy watching the exciting US World Series.

Repeat photo for those who missed it. This Colobus monkey and I made eye contact for some time until finally, he offered me this pose, now one of our favorite monkey photos.

Rivas, the poolside bar, is open 24 hours a day, a unique offering for night owls.  The main dining room opens at 7:30 am with a hearty breakfast buffet, offering an endless array of foods appealing to guests from all over the world.  The dinner menu and buffet provided the utmost in dining options befitting all age groups and tastes. 

We had chosen the B&B option which included our oceanfront cottage and breakfast which especially worked for us with neither of us caring to eat lunch. Dinners were prepared with skill and attention to one’s preferences, which in my case was utmost of importance. I never felt I was imposing or “asking too much” when requesting my special considerations.

With flour laden sugary desserts not an option for my restrictive diet,  the chef didn’t hesitate to prepare this delicious cheese plate.

Staff quickly learned our names making us feel at ease and welcomed regardless of the area we were visiting, especially in the restaurant. The only suggestion we’d offer is that the beer wasn’t cold enough and thus, Tom requested it is freezer-chilled before we arrived for dinner, most evenings around 7:15. Bruno happily complied to ensure this was handled each evening.

The “snake show” on Wednesday evening at 5:30, brought many of the guests together for an entertaining experience for even the most squeamish of attendees. As you’ll see in tomorrow’s post, our final post on our mini holiday celebration, we took plenty of photos.

This morning at low tide as we dined on our “custom made” omelets and multiple offerings at the breakfast buffet which was included in the cost of our cottage.

Complimentary coffee and tea with “crumpets” was served poolside each afternoon from 4:00 to 5:00 pm which we never attended although we’d intended to do so. Instead, we were lazily relishing the cool ocean breezes, the rampant wildlife easily visible on the property, and the relaxing environment. The Sands at Nomad freely exuded its obvious mission to create a flawless and memorable holiday experience. Mission accomplished. 

The cost for oceanfront cottage for three nights with breakfast, tax, and service charge included:

Kenya Shilling $77550, US $914.50 plus extra for three nights dinners plus cocktails and beverages, Kenya Shillings $12330, US $145.40 plus all tips Kenya Shillings $3000, US $35.38 plus taxi fare to and from Kenya Shilling $1300, US $15.30.

Grand total:  Kenya Shilling $94180, US $1110.60

Note:  As for our pleasant surprise upon returning to our Diani Beach home, with one more month as of today until we leave for South Africa, was that Hans and Jeri had arranged to have our house professionally treated for insects. With us gone, it was an opportunity to let the process work and to protect us from the fumes. We couldn’t be more appreciative and thrilled to know we’ll be swatting fewer insects off of us.

Also, when we returned, our temporary dogs, Jessie and Gucci went wild with enthusiasm, barking, and literally chirping when they saw us. Now back a full two hours, they’ve yet to leave our sides. It feels like “home.” But, then again, isn’t that what a temporary home for world travelers such as us,  is supposed to feel like?

Last nights dinner photos and recipe…One more day to mini anniversary vacation…

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Surely, I could have more neatly arranged my plate (Tom had the same minus avocado and tomato) but the enticing smell of the cooking chicken made me anxious to have dinner, I just threw it on the plate. Isn’t that what we all do?
Coconut Crusted Parmesan Chicken with sliced tomato, avocado, and green beans. Our usual cole slaw. is on the side plate. All the vegetables were purchased fresh yesterday from the vegetable stand down the road from us; the cabbage, carrots, tomato, avocado, and green beans were delivered as we arrived, by a guy on a motorcycle with colorful bins stacked high on the back seat.
Making delicious dinners every night is and always has been an important part of life’s enjoyable experience. I’ll admit that in this heat and humidity, I often wish there was something in the freezer that I could pop in the microwave (No room in the freezer for leftover meals. No microwave).
We prepare most of our meals with the intention of having the same meal two nights in a row in order to cut down on the prep time. Thus, we prep one-day leaving ample ingredients in order to cook separately each of two nights. 
Last night, I made a fresh batch of Coconut Crusted Parmesan Chicken, and tonight, I’ll prepare the second freshly cooked batch. The green beans, cabbage, and carrots are already cleaned and cut, ready for tonight. I know this may seem to require the same amount of work, but it actually saves time and effort. 
The prep time for this meal was 20 minutes, mostly spent cutting the cabbage and carrots for the cole slaw. In many countries, you can purchase bagged shredded cabbage and carrots. Not the case in Kenya.  The cooking time is 21 to 25 minutes.
Plus the time it takes to snip the ends off of the green beans, uses 10 of the 20 minutes.The boneless chicken prep was minimal: remove visible fat, rinse in purified water (or your safe local drinking water), place, covered, on paper towels in the refrigerator. The remainder will be explained in the recipe below.
I’d concocted this recipe some time ago is now one of our favorites, totally within the realm of my restrictive diet:  gluten-free, grain-free, sugar-free, starch-free and low carb. 
Here’s the recipe:
Jessica’s GF Low Carb, Coconut Crusted Parmesan Chicken (for two, easily doubles)
3 large boneless, skinless chicken breasts
3/4 cup unsweetened coconut or coconut flour
3/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese
1/2 tsp. salt (we always use Himalayan Salt)
1/2 tsp. ground pepper
1/2 tsp. garlic powder
2 beaten eggs
Olive oil, cold pressed, organic
Coconut oil, cold pressed, unrefined (no processing), organic
  • Place two eggs in a flat bottomed bowl, beating with a fork for 30 seconds. 
  • Place coconut flour, grated Parmesan cheese, salt, pepper and garlic powder in a separate bowl.
  • Dip one chicken breast at a time into the coconut flour mixture first, then the beaten eggs, then back into the coconut flour mix, coating thoroughly.  Place prepared coated breasts on waxed paper or parchment.
  • Prepare a skillet with equal portions of olive and coconut oil, to approximately 3/4 inch deep in the pan.  Heat skillet with oils on medium high heat until hot, watching carefully.
  • Once oils are hot, place all the coated breasts evenly arranged to cook.  Turn down the heat to medium.  In about 7 minutes, the bottom side will be brown.  Carefully flip ensuring not to knock off coating in process.  Cook another 7 minutes, checking the bottom from time to time. 
  • Once both sides are brown, place a tight fitting lid over pan, lower the heat one more notch and cook, turning once more another 7 minutes.
  • During this 21 minute cooking time, toss salad, cook green beans, etc.
  • After the final 7 minutes, take a sharp knife, cut into the thickest breast of the 3 checking if done…no pink.  If not done, cook with lid on, in two minute increments.  It will cook quickly at this point.  Don’t overcook.
  • Once done drain on paper towels as plates are prepared with vegetables and serve.  Enjoy.
 Although this may look like a long complicated recipes, for the experience cook, I’d say:
Triple dip the chicken in coconut mixture and egg, fry in skillet, turning to avoid burning. Drain on paper towels.
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Today, we’re packing for our vacation starting tomorrow: all of our digital equipment, casual dressy for dinner with shoes and accessories, shorts and tee shirts for breakfast, bathing suits and cover-up for pool, water shoes for walking the beach, undies, lounge wear, toiletries and pills. That should do it.
I must admit that I’m chompin’ at the bit to get into some air conditioned comfort and to feel pampered for a few days.  That hasn’t been the case since we were aboard ship, disembarking  in Venice, Italy on June 16th.  Overall, we’ve gotten used to being sweaty and sticky, especially with me covered in repellent 18 hours a day. 
We’ll be back tomorrow by late afternoon, our time, with photos of our accommodations, surroundings and hopefully wildlife as we spend 3 nights celebrating a full year since we left our old lives to begin anew on October 31, 2012.

First time posted safari photos… Dinner on the town…Plus we’re going on “vacation” in three days… Details coming…

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This mom had a baby on her opposite side.  We waited, hoping the baby would appear. The mom, seemed aware of us, never allowed the baby to make an appearance.
Although this croc looks small in this photo, Anderson our guide, speculated he was no less than 15 feet long. Although less than 20 feet from us, we cautiously stood on a steep embankment, impossible for him to climb with his size and girth.
Another hippo is swimming in the river while this one was sniffing for breakfast.
Anderson chuckled when we zoomed in to get this shot of an impala during our first few minutes in the Land Cruiser after he’d picked us up at the airport.  He said we’d see so many of these and other animals in the antelope family, we’d soon lose interest in taking their photos.  How right he was, although these graceful animals are enchanting to watch.
Young lions lounging under a tree on a beautiful morning.


Mom keeping out a watchful eye while her brood lounges. From time to time, she nodded off, quickly startling herself awake.
Grunt.  Life is hard for a “Retired General.” This one may have been newly banished as he’d yet to meet up with other such males. He looked forlorn and miserable. 
We took at least 10 shots of this exquisite male lion looking satisfied and sleepy with the remains of his zebra meal behind him. Anderson said that most likely a female killed it and he took it from her. The male’s MO is to watch females hunt in order to steal their catch, although when desperate, they’ll hunt for their own meals.

When shooting multiple shots of one scene, many shots may look similar or at times almost identical. Luckily, I have access to a link where I can review all of the photos I’ve already posted to ensure I don’t post lots of duplicates since each photo has its own unique number. Although on occasion, as mentioned in the past, I may make an error or simply want to repost a shot.

While on safari, we kept took over 600 photos, keeping approximately 500. We posted many of those 500 over a 13 day period at about 20 per day, leaving us almost half of them that our reader hasn’t seen, mainly due to the appearance of many being duplicates. From time to time, we’ll post a few of these as we’ve done today.
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Dinner on the town…

The elegant lobby at the Diani Reef Resort and Spa.
The elegant offerings at Diani Reef Resort and Spa were breathtaking.
A coy pond and glass floor in the reception area were only a few of the highlights at the
Diani Reef Resort and Spa.
Our intent had been to arrive in daylight for the benefit of better photos.  Perhaps, we’ll return during the day to partake in the several additional restaurants, the offered pool lounging, and the free WiFi.
Dining out three times a week has made a world of difference to us. Yes, it’s a pain to getting ready to go out each time;  the heat, the repellent, plus trying to figure out what to wear. But, we’ve found that once we’re on our way in the taxi, we’re always happy to be on our way. 
Tom standing in front of the popular local Baobab trees located in the lobby area of the resort. That’s my purse, not his, although on occasion he does carry it for me.

In our old lives, we seldom dined out. Many of our friends lived in our neighborhood making staying in dining with them easy and fulfilling. Plus, we’d had our fill of nearby restaurants, preferring to dine at home.

Although this appears to be an exterior photo, it was actually taken from inside the massive courtyard in the lobby area.

Now, with a multitude of amazing resorts with phenomenal restaurants within a 20 minutes drive costing no more than KES $1500, US $17.69 for the round trip drive including tips, dining out certainly has its appeal.

As we approached the bar area where we had drinks and excellent service. 

With many highly rated standalone restaurants nearby, we’ve been tempted to try them. The problem has been my restrictive diet. The standalone restaurants mainly have “cooks” managing the preparation of the meals. But the fancier resorts have trained “chefs” who totally “get it” when I say: no starch, no gluten, no grain, no sugar. 

A view down the hall as we sat on the bar stools. There is one fabulous seating area after another offering privacy or socialization with easy access to MiFi.  Although appearing empty,  the huge property had many guests enjoying the facility’s wide array of areas.

Still, with most of the professional “chefs,” I must explain the fact of “no rice, no corn, no corn thickeners, no potatoes, no potato thickeners” which is often difficult for them to understand when most gluten-free diets do include corn, potatoes, beans, rice, and gluten-free grains, none of which I am able to consume due to the high carb content.

At 7:30, the hostess arrived at the bar to alert us that our dinner reservation was ready, carrying our drinks on a tray as she escorted to Sake, the Japanese restaurant

Some may say, “Gee, take a break. Enjoy a few bites here and there.” I appreciate this mentality. But, 26 months ago, I was a near invalid in constant debilitating pain. At that time, I would never have considered traveling the world, let alone going on a day’s outing.

This was Tom’s dinner, tempura pork loin with a Japanese seasoned side salad.

Now pain-free after over two years of eating this way, I can sit in a bumpy safari vehicle for eight hours a day with nary a moment’s thought of pain, or walk many miles for hours on the uneven pavement to see Petra in Jordan, walking up and down steep cobblestone walkways in Mikonos, Greece and on and on. 

The rice, miso soup, and sauce was included in Tom’s meal. We shared a delicious appetizer before dinner but were so hungry we forgot to take a photo before devouring it!

Need I say more?  No type of food is worth the pain returning and never will be. Thus, the fancier restaurants, although more costly, are worth it to us. 

Most likely, the restaurant/resort we visited on Thursday night was the most expensive thus far. The total for dinner, drinks, and tips at Diani Reef Resort and Spa at Sake Restaurant, was KES $7566.70, US $89.23 which included some cocktails for Tom at KES $763.20, US $9.00 each. As is the case in most of the resorts, the cost of cocktails is high with soda and beer less so. 

My dinner.  Yea, I know that my ongoing calamari meals look repetitious but there’s nowhere in the world we’ve visited thus far that offer this un-battered tender calamari.  I can’t seem to get enough!  It’s caught locally served fresh the same day.  How can I resist?  I’d rather have it than lobster although, the fresh locally caught lobster is firm and flavorful from the Indian Ocean.

Tom worked for 42 years to earn this retirement. He can have all the cocktails he wants, although overall, he’s a lightweight drinker. I don’t drink any alcohol. Instead, I order bubbly water with lemon or lime.

The moment we entered the gorgeous resort, we anticipated an enjoyable evening and we were never disappointed for a moment. From the welcome reception we received upon entering, to being greeted and chatting with Susan, the assistant GM, and Mohammad, the GM when departing, we were enthralled with the quality of service.
 Our table after our entrees were served created an eye-catching presentation. I requested a sauce made without gluten or sugar and this sugary sauce was removed.

The ambiance was over the top, one of the most beautiful resorts we’ve yet to see.  The design and the décor were developed and embellished to the utmost of creativity, with a theme of a warm elegance unsurpassed in the resort industry. 

After an exquisite dinner in the Japanese restaurant Sake, Susan and Mohammad invited us to return for a full day’s enjoyment at their pool where they’ll reserve a padded lounge chair for us. We’ll be able to use their free WiFi and dine in another of their several restaurants at our leisure. We look forward to taking them up on their offer soon. 

Yes, folks, we’re going on another three-night “vacation” starting on Tuesday, October 29th, returning on Friday, November 1st. Some might call it a “vacation within a vacation” but for us, it is the perfect way to celebrate on October 31st, the anniversary of our first full year of travel after leaving Minnesota on Halloween, October 31, 2012.

Tomorrow, we’ll share our plans and of course, next week amid our “vacation” we’ll we writing and posting stories as they occur.