Treasuring the village of Boveglio and its residents…A visit to a local B & B with photos…

The flowers of Tuscany never cease to amaze us.  The colors, the smells, the varied designs make them appear more artist rendered than real life itself.
Old fashioned community washing pool, where locals gathered to do their laundry.  The larger is for washing. The smaller sink is for rinsing.  Of course, they’d bring their laundry home to dry outside their windows.
Me, in the old apron, hanging on a hook in the above photo and Michela, ready to rinse the clothes.  Talk about authentic! I like doing laundry but I don’t know if this would be as convenient.

As mentioned many times in our posts, nothing in our travels pleases us more than the opportunity to meet and interact with the locals. It is from these experiences that our travels become more meaningful and enriching. 

Unfortunately, in the small community of Boveglio with a population of only 150, meeting local residents has not been easy. Add the language barrier and we’re left with little opportunity to mingle. That may change after a special day today.

With non-existent Italian language skills, we’ve found ourselves making feeble attempts to communicate in the hope of acquiring a sense of the village and its culture. 

Santina, our delightful cleaning person was here today. We’re stay on the veranda as she busily performs her tasks for two hours at a total cost of US $20.85. Close to my own age, she’s a whirling dervish, full of energy, enthusiasm and brute strength.  I see this as she works wishing I had her stamina.

She wears a dress, a flowered print with a waistline, as most of the adult women wear in Italy, with a full apron when cooking or cleaning. Her attire easily reminds me of the 1950’s with my mother wearing a “shirtwaist” flowered print dress while standing in the kitchen also wearing an apron.  Oh, how times have changed!

Today, when she arrived, I had typed a message to her in Google Translate which she fully understood requesting that she not open the windows in the master bedroom. These past few weeks that we’ve been fortunate to have her fine services she’s opened all of the windows to aid in the drying of the stone floors. Of course, a zillion flying things came inside. If we can protect the bedroom for bug-free sleeping, we’re content. 

The entrance to Not Only Pinocchio along the narrow road.

Here’s a short video of Not Only Picocchio

She chuckled after reading the translation which apparently was clear and concise. I suppose she giggled at the availability and subsequent use of such a translation device for us to communicate.  But, for all we know, she has a computer at home playing games on Facebook at night.  I won’t ask.

To expand our horizons, I contacted the owner of the local B & B, Not Only Pinocchio, that we’ve noticed while making our way on foot to Bar Ferrari, the local pub. This particular long steep walk was depicted in a video we borrowed from a kindly gentleman we met online, which was taken while he was riding his motorcycle. Please see the archives on the right side of our home page for 7/17/2013 for the video.

Finding the email link for Not Only Pinocchio in the contact section on their site, I wrote asking for a tour of the property. Within hours we received a response from Michela, a delightful woman who much to our surprise, spoke some English. 

We’d hoped to visit and photograph the quaint B & B and share it on our site for our readers all over the world to see. As free advertising for them and for an opportunity for us to explore, it was a win-win. Today, at 2:00 pm as planned, Michela was waiting for us outside the B & B when we arrived early (as us older folks tend to do). 

The convenient kitchen with everything a cook could need at the B & B.


Michela enthusiastically explained the detail on this antique hutch in the kitchen.

This table in the kitchen, most likely covered in Formica in the 1950’s is well-preserved and ideal for this location.

Our perception is that their B & B is aptly named, “Not Only Pinocchio” to illustrate that one need not stay close to the town of Collodi which is only 20 minutes down the mountain and the birthplace of the story of Pinocchio. 

Tuscany, a much desired popular tourist destination, offers an endless array of rich historical significance attracting millions of tourists each year.

Too cute..the owners of Not Only Pinocchio, Michela and Luca Panigada! (Luca is a common male name in Italy).

Although there are numerous hotels within 30 minutes of Collodi, Michela and Luca chose to offer this unique B & B, away from the hustle and bustle of the tourist crowd in the village of Collodi and its surrounding communities. As one of a few small businesses located in the village of Boveglio, it never fails to honor the truest form of the Tuscan life.

The living room, well equipped with books, flat screen TV, WiFi and a variety of artworks Michela and Luca have accumulated over the years.

Michela, born in the region of Lucca, lived in Milan for many years. The draw of her father’s roots in Boveglio created a passion which she shared with us today, for the changing tourism business that continues to offer more and more opportunities for the smaller villages, such as Boveglio that provide unique facilities for tourists.

One of the two guest rooms with stone floors, artwork and antique furniture.
Michela was excited to show us the “mirror image” of duplicate artwork on the bedroom walls, repeated in the hallway.

Many tourists worldwide, such as ourselves, are pulling away from the traditional hotels in order to grasp the genuine flavor of a region such as Italy; the culture, the ambiance, living amongst “the people,” eating their authentic foods, basking in the simplicity of their centuries old lifestyles, often with less modern conveniences.

The second bedroom with a king sized bed.
The “included in the price” kid’s cubby.

Not Only Pinocchio enmeshes travelers in a welcome respite from the traditional busy, noisy hotel rooms and lobbies, reducing stress, add-on charges, and more often than not, a small, often uninvited single room with made-to-look-old accoutrements and furnishings. 

Favorite artwork by local artist, a good friend.

If authenticity is a tourist’s objective, Not Only Pinocchio, has it all. With two well-appointed guest bedrooms, either or both of which can be arranged at reasonable pricing, guests have access to an over-sized Tuscan kitchen, living room, cute cubby sleeping area for kids at no additional cost, all of which is appointed with all of the “must-haves” and so much more, including antique treasures each with their own special story.

A Picasso print, many of which are seen in Italian homes, proud of the art of Italy, steeped in historical significance, revered by art aficionados worldwide.

Playing a role in promoting local businesses, however small, adds yet another layer of enjoyment in our worldwide travels. This B & B, quaint in its décor, encompasses the full flavor of the Tuscan life which may be the ideal for travelers seeking more than a number of nights in an traditional hotel.   

Living in an authentic property whether for a night or months, such as we chosen to do, is the essence of memories that one will cherish forever.

Tom getting ready for the walk home.  See, his haircut is shaping up after all!

As is the case in our home for the summer, Casasottolatorre Villa Basilica, we are drenched in the semblance of life from another time in a manner one would also experience at a stay at Not Only Pinocchio.

Michela walked partway back with us introducing us to her neighbors, who’s garden we’ve admired when walking on other occasions.

Thank you Michela! We hope to see you again soon!

The tiny chapel where the local women pray in the evenings.  We’d noticed this structure when walking a few weeks ago but had assumed it was on private property.As Michela walked partway back with us, she showed us this little treasure which actually is on communal property.

Video of a motorbike ride in our neighborhood…

As we research the web for added information about Tuscany, on occasion we encounter an entry that brings a smile to our faces. Such is the case when Tom found this video while he was conducting research for yesterday’s post.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u8qEI5ehTzg

It was taken five years ago by a kindly gentlemen, Tage, a motorcycle enthusiast, whom we “met” online, when asking him if we could use his video for today’s post. 

He was great, enthusiastic to share!  His father was born in Boveglio and when he and his wife visited on their motorcycle in 2008, they took this video of the lengthy, hilly walk in the neighborhood in Boveglio, starting from the “square” near Bar Ferrari, ending near the parking lot where we park our rental car.

Had we made a video of this walk, it surely would have been too lengthy on foot. Using his, taken while riding his motorcycle, was perfect. 

When any of us post videos on YouTube.com we provide permission for others to re post our videos. It doesn’t require permission from the originator. However, we’ve found that “asking permission” to re post photos and videos is an excellent opportunity to make a new online friend and to provide them the satisfaction of knowing that others are enjoying their project.

So was the case with Tage. He couldn’t have been more delighted, as were we. Living in Italy, he extended an offer for he and his wife to meet us somewhere for coffee, should we be near each other at any time in our travels. Perhaps we will. 

The power of the web to connect people with similar interests is astounding. How did we ever manage travel without it?  How did we ever search for services, hotels, entertainment and transportation? Over the phone, most likely. Using travel agents when possible. Do travel agencies even exist anymore?

This morning, as we planned a road trip for next Tuesday, how would we have booked a hotel without the Internet? And, before the advent of phones and travel agents, would we have had to send a telegram or a letter, many months in advance?

I often remind myself how grateful I am that we’ve lived in this period of time as opposed to hundreds or thousands of years ago. How easy life is comparatively. Undoubtedly, we’d never have wanted this life as nomads, traveling the world with the difficulty of “making arrangements.”

Now, as we share our travels via the Internet, we find that the world is very small in many ways.  How ironic to find a video, five years old, of where we’re spending the summer in this tiny community with few tourists?   

As we continue on, we’re convinced that we’ll have access to the travels of others to incorporate into our own experiences, meeting fine people along the way, online and in person with the commonality of interest in expanding our knowledge of the amazing world around us.

Of course, when we leave next Tuesday, July 23, we’ll be bringing our digital equipment to ensure that wherever we may go, you’ll have the option of “traveling with us” as we share our experiences and photos.

Day #115 in lockdown Mumbai, India hotel…Is the “head in the sand” premise the best response during these times?…

The Borgias… Historical TV series about Italy… Reminds us of our location…We went exploring…More photos….

These are the locked iron gates closing off easy access to the church. To get closer to the church tower, we’d have to walk through dense weeds. Knowing there are many ticks in the grass, we chose to drive to the other side with still no way to get closer to the church.

This unattached separate building on the church grounds may have been the original church on the grounds based on the above inscription near the entryway.
A portion of the entrance to the larger church.
This gate was also locked, preventing us from getting inside the church.
This translates to:  “the companionship SS V Del Rois,”  appears to be the name of someone of significance to these church grounds.

It’s ironic that we chose to begin watching Showtime’s series, The Borgias, a historical piece on the raucous lifestyle of the papacy in the late 1400’s Italy. Although filmed in Budapest, many scenes are of renowned Italian cities, many of them now familiar to us. 

The back view of the church and clock tower facing the cemetery.
Overlooking the iron railing around the cemetery prior before entering.

Able to download full episodes (with no commercials on any of the TV shows) on Graboid, a $19.95 a month download service, we’ve enjoyed watching one episode a night as we catch up from Season 2 and 3, having seen Season 1 in the US. 

Another view of a portion of the cemetery from the iron railing. A gate was also locked to the main entrance, but we able to enter through an unlocked side gate.
These steps were much steeper than they appear here, more so than many of the steps on the walk to Bar Ferrari in our neighborhood.  At the bottom of these steps, we found the unlocked gate allowing us to enter.
These were the first gravesites we spotted as we entered the cemetery.
Tom, ancestry.com obsessed, was fascinated with the stories revealed by the many headstones, names, dates, and photos.
Many gravesites had these oversized headstones.

Each night after dinner, we place my laptop on the coffee table in the living room to watch the highly entertaining series. The sofa in the living room, more than 100 years old, is lumpy and uncomfortable, but with the addition of a few well-placed pillows, we’ve managed to make it work for us.

The name Ferrari, as in the local bar, was depicted on many of the headstones.
Some of the headstones were quite impressive, both old and new.

With no appropriate plain wall in this house, we haven’t used our mini projector.  With 100’s of movies and shows downloaded on our portable hard drive, we’ll be able to continue to enjoy a few shows in the evening when we spend our upcoming nine months in Africa.

It was surprising that many of the headstones here in Boveglio weren’t older. The earliest date we saw was in the early 1800’s.  However, the oldest of the markers were embedded into the surrounding wall and difficult to read due to their age.
Most of the flowers were artificial as often is the case except for significant dates and remembrances.

Watching The Borgias, we’ve marveled over their use of the sound of the clock towers clanging while filming the show. Often, we’ve assumed it was the sound of one of the two bell towers we hear four times an hour, including during the night.  Located outside of our bedroom window we’re surprised how quickly we’ve become used to the sound which doesn’t awaken either of us at night.

Looking carefully, we could see this may have been born in 1832, passing on in 1898.

 

More Ferrari family members from Boveglio.
This may have been a husband and wife, or a father and daughter.

After one month in Boveglio we’ve posted many photos of this church and tower that our house overlooks.  Since arriving, we’ve wanted to have a closer look at the 100’s year-old structure and cemetery. It’s one of those places you can see, but it’s not easy to get today.

This old basin was working, we surmised it was most likely used for watering flowers.
One of these lost souls was born in 1844.

A few weeks ago, we drove down the steep hill only to be shooed away by some woman sitting in her car with the door open. Worried we were on private property, that the church had been sold as residential property, we left, not wanting to intrude.  With no one to ask about it that speaks English, we assumed we wouldn’t be able to get closer.

The view backed up at our home and the clock tower next door to us that clangs four times per hour, not necessarily at the exact same times, including during the night.  

On Saturday evenings, as the bells clanged loudly for over five minutes on two occasions, only minutes apart, we saw a man in a red shirt with two children, inside the tower. Unless they are the owners of the church, we decided that today, we’re taking our chances and driving down the steep road, to walk the remainder of the way to see the church up close.

Before driving back up the steep hill we stopped for this shot which was our only unobstructed backside view.

Satisfied that we’d seen all that we could by car and on foot, we maneuvered the steep inclines to return to the main road. With the sharp angle required to depart the narrow driveway, we had no choice but to travel much further down
the winding mountain road to a tiny turnaround spot we’d used on other occasions.

Each day as we write from the veranda with the fabulous views of the mountains covered with a wealth of lush vegetation, a perpetual fluttering of white butterflies, the melodic sounds of myriad birds, and the endless buzzing of bees flying around our heads, we are content.

Every 15 minutes or so, the clock towers clang as a reminder of the history of this magnificent area, the lives lived and died in Boveglio and the memories any of us are lucky enough to treasure in our hearts and minds forever.

Its a “buggie” life…Flying insect photos from a pro..

These “bug/flying insect” photos were provided by Chris Kelly, a professional photographer on his recent visit to Tuscany.  He too, observed the vast number of flying insects inspiring him to take these excellent photos. Thanks, Chris! Great photos!
Looks like a regular bee, doesn’t it?

As a kid, when a bug, flying insect, mosquito or bees buzzed my head, I’d jump around and scream. Over the years living on a lake in Minnesota, I got over it, with an occasional jump but never a scream. Bugs were everywhere. 

By August, the wasps, yellow jackets and hornets flourished, practically dive bombing us when we attempted to enjoy the outdoors. Tom and I are both allergic to wasps and hornets.   

Over the years, on many occasions, my hand or foot would become swollen beyond recognition from a horsefly bite, with itching lasting for 10 days or more. Even a paltry mosquito bite could cause swelling and itching for days.

Really?  Please don’t stop by!

None the less, we spent considerable time outdoors days and evenings, swatting, spraying, dancing about to ward off the biting insects in Minnesota, the mosquito being the most prevalent.

When we arrived in Belize, we were plagued with the notorious no-see-ums, having as many as 100 bites at a time, they too, itching for many days and nights.  Once we moved to the air conditioned property in February with screens and air conditioning, we were well protected, especially at night.

Chris said he shot all of these insects on one single walk in Tuscany over a week ago.

The dilemma here in Boveglio boils down to the lack the screens or AC, not just on our house but in houses throughout the area.  I suppose the residents take them in their stride. We’ve yet to accomplish this feat. The exquisite blanket of vegetation covering the mountains, hills and terraced areas, provide a lush environment for flying insects along with a wide array of bugs we don’t recognize nor do we fear. 

Were it not for the risk of a serious reaction to a sting, neither of us would give it a thought.  Although anything buzzing around one’s head at night is rather annoying. As mentioned a few posts ago, we now keep all the windows and the door shut in our bedroom. Yesterday, lovely Lisa and Luca, the owners of the house, brought us a stand fan making last night’s sleep especially comfortable.

Yes, we’ve seen these buzzing around the flowering basil. No annoyance here.

Today, the temperature is in the low 90’s.  Luckily, in the evenings the temperature drops considerably. If we chose to open the windows in the bedroom at night, we may be inviting bats inside with the hundreds we’ve noticed flying around the house as we’ve sat on the veranda in the evenings. 

Yesterday morning, I heard an outrageous buzzing while chopping and dicing in the kitchen while Tom was in the other room.The kitchen window was opened. After awhile the buzzing stopped replaced by the lesser buzzing of other flying insects entering and leaving the kitchen through the open window.

This appears to be a type of moth, not so scary.

I should mention that we keep the organic waste, of which we have quite a bit due to cooking most of our meals, in a tightly closed and bagged container in the kitchen, emptying it often. We’re fully aware that such a container would surely attract bugs.  In our old life, we had garbage disposals, not the case after leaving Minnesota last Halloween. 

There are five separate containers for recycling down in the trash area. We sort and remove all of our trash frequently, keeping all windows closed anywhere near the  outdoor trash area.

Most likely, this insect doesn’t sting.

Back to the outrageous buzzing. This morning, again while chopping and dicing, I heard it again as did Tom.  Looking up at the log ceiling in the kitchen, we saw a yellow jacket or hornet coming out of a small opening near the mortar and the wood. Oh, no! Its making a nest inside the kitchen. Somehow, we shooed it outside the window.  Minutes later it came back inside working its way back inside the little hole in the ceiling.

Not feeling like driving down the mountain today to get some type of spray, our only option for today was to shoo the thing outside once more, when we weren’t able to kill it and proceed to close all the windows in the house.

These things are clever. Shall we wait to see if 25 baby hornets are born in the kitchen soon or shall we drive down the mountain to find a hardware store in order to purchase an appropriate spray (first, we’ll translate the possible verbiage).

Wanting to be outside awhile ago we spent an hour on the patio in our chaise lounges, swatting the flying things. With the herb garden growing within a foot of us, they were swarming us for the entire hour. Back inside, we’re now on the less-“buggie” veranda with a few flies, an occasional bee and less often, a gigantic loud hairy black dive bomber.

This resembles a beetle, not necessarily a stinging insect.

While researching the Internet this morning for possible solutions and descriptions of these flying insects, I stumbled across these amazing photos of a sampling of a few of the flying insects of Tuscany, taken by a professional photographer, Chris Kelly (yes, I’m jealous!) writing to him asking permission to use his photos. As it turns out he took these photos in Tuscany while he was vacationing here only a week ago. Chris was delighted to share his work, as us “web geeks” often are. 

Naming these must be left to the bug experts of the world. Please comment if you know the names of any of these. With literally millions of species on flying insects, it would be an impossible task to find their varieties in order to name them correctly.

As an aside, this morning while chopping and dicing I had intended to make a salmon salad using canned salmon as one would use canned tuna. We’d purchased two such cans while shopping a few weeks ago. 

With Tom having the leftover taco salad tonight, I though a big bowl of salmon salad atop shredded romaine lettuce and raw sliced veggies would be a perfect meal for me, along with plate of steamed green beans and sautéed eggplant. 

Whenever we have leftovers which is only enough for one of us, I make a single separate dinner for the other. Waste not, want not. Never wasting a morsel of food is our motto, hardly ever throwing away any leftovers. 

After chopping the fresh crispy celery, purple onion and hard boiled eggs using the Mezzaluna knife (see instruction video), placing them in a large mixing bowl, I opened the big can of salmon, poured off the excess juice and dumped it into the bowl. 

Instead of a glob of salmon freely popping out of the can, it was a batch of about 10 small fish. It was mackerel! Yikes and yuck! Well, my “waste not, want not” theory kicks in as I continued to make the salad. That’s my dinner tonight! I’ll have to eat the entire bowl so we won’t have more organic waste to attract more flying insects.

Mechanical aspects in our 300 year old temporary home…Many photos include new homemade pizza recipe using local ingredients…

This paper towel holder is a dowel, a piece of string tied in loops on the ends to be hung on any available hook. Simple and clever.

Today is a full three weeks we’ve been living in a charming 300-year-old stone house, nestled in the mountains among a cluster of other attached homes built centuries ago, into the exquisitely forested and farmed hills and valleys of Boveglio in the Province of Lucca, Tuscany, Italy.

It’s at about this time, as we’ve become more settled, that we wander about our vacation rentals with a more keen eye observing its quirks and nuances, some of which may be a violation of code in the US and other countries which we find to be unique and interesting. 

More cloth wiring in the kitchen with exposed bulbs over the sink.
The electrical wiring throughout the house is all exposed, using cloth as opposed to the conduit most of us are familiar with as a code requirement in the US and other countries.  We doubt that building/code compliance inspectors travel around inspecting all of these centuries-old properties.
As shown above, in the kitchen, the main source of lighting is these two fixtures over the kitchen table, encased in glass globes. Energy-efficient as the “curly” energy-efficient bulbs we’d used in the US, this particular style takes approximately five minutes to light up the area which can be a little tricky at night.
As the designated cook (Tom’s the dishwasher), I’ve had the most difficultly operating the stove. It’s a newer “made-to-look old” range and oven and there’s nothing wrong with it. 
This hanging plant is used to hide an electrical outlet.
It’s the same a stove type we used in Belize; gas without an automatic pilot.  One has to hold in a button while pushing in the dial to ignite the oven or burner. It sounds easy, but the trick is in the amount of time one has to hold in the button and the dial to keep the burner ignited.  Let go of one too soon and gas is free-flowing without ignition.
I know it’s not rocket science nor does it require an inordinate amount of skill.  For some odd reason, I struggle with this, trying desperately to figure it out on the own without having to ask Tom.  Stubborn, I guess.  On occasion, even he, Mr. Coordinated, has trouble with this.  In several instances, we’ve had to stop, open the screen-less window wide waiting for the gas to clear to later begin again.
These cloth wires are above the small shower and near the sink in the large main bath.
Two things here to notice: One, this is Tom is he’s walking down the long hallway for which he obviously has to duck. Yes, he’s banged his head many times getting me into the habit of saying, “Don’t bang your head!” as he walks to the bedroom.  Two, this is Tom desperately needs a haircut. We’ve yet to find an available barber in any of the villages we’ve visited. His last haircut was in March in Belize for which we wrote a post with photos. Ponytail or shave?  Which will it be?
This doorway to the main bathroom was cut to fit the frame, also low, requiring that I also duck when entering or leaving. 
Another head ducking/banging doorway to a guest bedroom.
Earlier, we’d posted a different photo of access to the patio from the stone stairway. These stone steps, continue down a full flight, making this the most hazardous spot in the house. Although this patio is our new sunning spot and only place to hang laundry outdoors, we spot each other each time we hike up there. No happy hour is to be had on this patio! 
This is an old, now unused wood burning stove (we think unused) in the long hallway.
The uneven multiple steps in the long hallway along with the variety of low ceilings, present an ongoing challenge for both of us. Tom is roughly four inches taller than I am creating a much more hazardous situation for him.
The heating elements for the radiators are behind this hanging curtains in the long hallway. Hmmm….

Also, there are two uneven steps from the hallway into the master bedroom.  We’ve both adopted a habit of reaching around to the wall on the right of the doorway to turn on the overhead light.  This process reminds us of the two steps.

This meter, most likely electrical, is in the interior hallway by the front door.

During daylight hours, we leave the hallway light on all day (the only light that remains on) as a reminder to tread carefully through the areas of steps. At night, we bring our mugs filled with ice water to leave at each of our nightstands and also use the en suite bathroom to avoid the long walk down the hall.

Tom was washing dishes one night while I tended to the laundry. Hearing this box, turn off and on rapidly startled me. I ran upstairs to ask Tom when he told me it an “on-demand” hot water heater. I’d heard of these in the US, but never heard one of them in operation.  In any case, most systems are energy efficient here in Italy.
Also, during the day, we keep the bedroom door, the screen-less windows and shutters closed. These two steps keep the bedroom cool for sleeping and more importantly, keeps the flying insects from flying around our heads at night. 

In our old lives, if our dishwasher or dryer broke down, we’d be in a tizzy for days until an overpriced repairman arrived with a fix.  Now, we chuckle as we hang the wash outside, do dishes by hand, swat flies and bees flying indoors all day, cook food in batches (as opposed to leftovers) with no microwave and look down while bending our heads when we walk around the house.

This green plastic hose could be anything. 
This week, we’ll cook all the remaining frozen meats so we can defrost the tiny freezer before we go grocery shop again.  At this point, the buildup of ice is occupying a third of the space. I can’t recall the last time we defrosted a freezer.
This carved from the stone area inside the main door entry may be the water or gas meter.
 Much to our mutual delight, neither of us complains or whines to each other.  We observe, discovering solutions, and adapt accordingly.  All of these minor inconveniences become a part of the experience, a part of our personal growth as we strive to adapt, and a part of the story we’ll someday tell to anyone who’ll listen, in English, please.
Last night’s yet to be baked homemade low carb, gluten-free, grain-free, starch-free, and sugar-free pizza made with “real” mozzarella (often referred to as buffalo mozzarella in the US) and locally grown ingredients.  The stringiness factor was tripled from the pizza we’d made in the past using “manufactured” bagged shredded mozzarella which we hope to never use again. It was our best pizza ever! I’d cut double the ingredients in order to make another freshly made pizza for tonight with no microwave for reheating. Nothing like two nights of freshly made pizza!

Part 2…It’s a beautiful day in the neighborhood…Too many photos for one post…See yesterday for Part 1…New chaise lounges…

Our new chaise lounges on our patio. Later in the day the sun will  be in a better position for sunning. Grazie, Lisa and Luca!

Before we continue with the story of our exploring walk in the neighborhood, I wanted to express how grateful we are to Lisa and Luca, the property owners of our home in Boveglio. They have bent over backwards to ensure our visit is everything we’d expected and more.

 A few days ago, we posted the photo of the cemetery at the church where the larger clock tower is located.  Here again, from another perspective. We had walked for quite some time on the hilly narrow roads but surprisingly we weren’t very far away as the crow flies.  For example, it took us almost 40 minutes to get to Pescia last week but in fact, its a mere 11 miles from Boveglio.

Yesterday, I asked Luca by email (which he translates to Italian) if they had two chaise lounge chairs we could us on our own patio as opposed to those at the far end of the property enclosed in a small patio that has a tremendous amount of bees and wasps. 

Many restaurants, bars and shop’s hour are different than in the US, many taking long breaks during midday.  This little pub apparently, only closes for lunch, then ending its day at 7:00 PM, perfect for the happy hour crowd, if there is a crowd.

The blooming flowers, which are lovely to see and smell attract the bees, making our hour of sunning less enjoyable, especially for me, more allergic than Tom. 

The BAR Ferrari, the local pub we stumbled across on our extensive walk in the neighborhood.  The bar was located in the “square” a miniature version of various “squares” we walked in Venice, most certainly nothing like St. Mark’s.

Inside the house, we’ve exercised caution without screens in keeping the flying stinging insects at bay as much as possible. Of course, we have multiple EpiPens with us in the event either of us is stung.

Soon, we’ll visit this bar at happy hour.  It didn’t appear that they carry Tom’s preferred beverage of choice, Courvoisier but most assuredly, he’ll find an alternative, if only a beer.

The view of our familiar church and clock tower from the veranda at the pub.  lose and yet far away.

 How exciting it is that we now have a local pub we can frequent, as long as Tom can make it back up the hills to our home, with a few cocktails under his belt.

Leaving the square, we began our climb back up, trying in vain, to find a less strenuous path for one of those nights after happy hour at the pub.

The hour of sunning a few times a week provides us with a healthy dose of Vitamin D and a bit of color with no sunburn. Plus, under normal circumstances, its fun to lay out, chatting away, reading our books on our Kindle apps on our smart phones.

Trying this path proved to be a dead end after a steep climb on irregular stone steps.  Back down we went, to try again.

This morning, while Tom slept in (an oddity), I heard the doorbell buzz at 9:00 am.  There stood Lisa’s parents at the door, each holding a brand new chaise lounge, price tags still attached.  Not only had they honored our request but they purchased new chaises.

Leave it to Tom to notice the build up of creosote in this chimney.  I’m checking out the flowers and design and he’s looking at maintenance issues. 

After many nods and numerous “grazie,” I placed the chairs inside, anxious to show Tom. Immediately, I ran to my computer to write to Lisa and Luca, thanking them for the chairs, saying “old” would have been fine but “new” was more than we could have asked. Could they be more thoughtful? Their kindness enriches our time in Boveglio.

Tom was the first to notice this pretty entrance which is actually an operating hotel.
These steps were more steep than they appear in this photo.  Puff! Pant! Puff! Pant!
Zooming in and looking up, we realized we had a lot more climbing ahead of us to get back. We walked up many steps to get to this inclining ramp.
We neared the ramp by climbing many steep steps.
Once again, we were on level ground for a few minutes.
More steps up and into a tunnel.
All of a sudden, another shrine appeared with a tub of two faucets running constantly with what appeared to be clean water, used by the residents.
What appeared to be fresh running water at the shrine, collecting in this large basin.
We came across this tall narrow house.  Can you imagine the steps inside this property? Its no wonder Italians appear so slim and fit!
Another tucked away shrine.
Another old carving of the Virgin Mary and baby Jesus.

As we worked our way between the houses on the narrow walkways, we realized there was much more yet to discover which we’ll save for another day.With plenty of groceries to last through next week and the weather perfect at 80 degrees, the lavender beginning to bloom, we have literally no desire to go anywhere. 

This house looks free standing but it’s attached to other houses.

The $850 a month rental car sits unused in the parking lot assigned to the residents. I guess that’s all a part of “living” for periods of time in new and interesting locals. 

 The walkways although old and worn in spots are clean and well maintained.  Its evident that homeowners take pride in their neighborhood.

When we “lived” in our old lives, we didn’t go sightseeing every week (or ever for that matter), we paid for car payments, insurance, maintenance while our cars sat idly in our driveway on days off. 

This ramp was awkward to maneuver.  One must continually look down when walking to avoid falling on the uneven walkways.

We enjoyed our time at home, with or without visits from family and friends, doing what we loved to do, whatever that may have been at the moment. 

As we were nearing the far end of our yard, Tom looked for an access point without success, hoping to discover a shortcut.

One might argue, “Well, you won’t be in Italy forever. Better see it while you’re there.” That’s true and we’ve seen so much more so far than we’d have seen if we’d been on a two week vacation. And, we’ll see more soon, and we promise to share it all here.

The flag hanging on the veranda reminded us that the US holiday, the 4th of July, is tomorrow.  It will be the first time in either of our lives that we won’t be celebrating: no family and friends visiting, no flags, no flag cake, no long weekend, no barbecue, no big bowls of an array of salads, no water balloons and no fireworks.

We hope your summer day is warm, sunny and peaceful and that tomorrow, on the 4th of July (for those in the US), have a safe and enjoyable holiday!

Part 1…It’s a beautiful day in the neighborhood…Too many photos for one post…Part 2 tomorrow…

It’s interesting how so many periods of our lives are relived by music. This morning while contemplating writing this story, this song became an ‘earworm” spinning in my head.

The beginning of the steep walk downhill toward new discovery points in the neighborhood on a finally warm and sunny day.

Yesterday, after we’d already written the post for the day, it was time for me to go on my strenuous walk in the neighborhood to get my exercise. I had only branched out so far with my trepidation about getting lost in the maze of roads and narrow passageways between the houses that appear to go on forever.

With the interesting narrow walkways, the walk stays interesting and fresh each time we enter on the way down the steep climb.

Reminding Tom of my lack of sense of direction, he did a hefty “harrumph!” saying, “Wait, I’ll get my shoes.” 

A familiar spot that assures us we’re going in the correct direction.
As we approached the second parking area that Tom and I discovered after I’d shown him the first I’d found on my own days earlier, without getting lost.

With a sheepish grin on my face, having accomplished my goal without nagging, we marched out the door with vigor on the first really warm morning in a week.

On one of my previous exercise walks last week, I reminded myself of our last dog, Willie.  When exploring in our leash-free neighborhood, he’d travel far down the road, stop and contemplate before he took another step with a look on his face that said, “Will I find my way home?” That was me last week. 

It’s evident that the owners of this house have taken special care of an appealing well-kept exterior.  Obviously, the stone lasts for centuries.

It’s ironic, isn’t it, us dog lovers often become like our dogs, rather than them becoming like us? 

Often beads, vines, or ropes are used in the doorway of the front entrances, most likely for privacy during the day with an inner door to lock at night.

I had yet to show Tom the overlooking the parking area I’d found deep within the maze of houses. I proudly stomped along, mostly downhill, with pride in the fact that I could remember how to get there. I was hoping he’d say “good girl” (or “good dog”) when we arrived, but giving praise doesn’t come easy for Tom.I shrugged it off.

The view above us from the level parking deck I’d discovered a few days ago, which was as far as I’d ventured on my own, fearful of getting lost in the maze of narrow passageways.  With Tom’s excellent sense of direction, continuing on was easy.

As we neared the edge of the level overlook parking lot, we heard the clucking of chickens in a yard next to the driveway.  Not wanting to snoop in a private yard, we were unable to get a photo, but the sound was music to our ears.

With all of the houses attached to one another, the various doors are the focal point of interest to define the differences, some modern and well-kept and others worn and in ill repair, not unlike homes in many neighborhoods.

Before traveling to Tuscany, I had this vision in my head of chickens clucking, down the narrow roads, freely on their own. Much to my disappointment, we’ve yet to see this occurrence, instead finding chickens walking unencumbered in their pens, pecking on morsels on the ground, and clucking away merrily. 

Are doors such as this blocked off due to being unoccupied, or are the homeowners blocking off additional access to their house for other reasons, i.e., security, privacy, etc.?

After leaving the overlook parking lot, we continued on to new territory, up and down endless narrow, hilly pathways, huffing and puffing, discovering squeal-worthy sights along the way. (Having increased my fitness level and Tom having quit smoking when he retired, the huffing and puffing are less than expected). It couldn’t have been more delightful.

Notice the year this house was built above the door.

Little did we know the treasures that Boveglio has tucked away as one goes where only tiny cars maneuver as well as the surefooted curiosity seekers, such as ourselves.

Short tunnels such as this are common, often leading to one or more private homes.

Suddenly, we found ourselves in an open “square” or courtyard, even with a tall statue of whom, we weren’t sure. Nonetheless, we shot the photo. The accompanying carved marble slab was hard to read to translate.

Turning to our right, we saw the first open business, we’ve stumbled across in Boveglio, a tiny bar, open early in the morning with nary at guest on a bar stool.  Tomorrow, we’ll post photos of the little bar, empty except for the pleasant owner, when we arrived around noon.

As we entered the newly discovered square, the houses inside each were unique and mysterious.  How interesting it would be to see the inside!
Some of the houses appear to have French décor.
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 The statue we found in the center of the square.
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The inscription on the side of the statue was difficult to decipher.  It appears that the year was 1923.  The bottom, more readable portion translates: “Glorious heroes, your name be blessed forever from the children does not degenerate beautiful home with your blood Bedenta”
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Tom was particularly attracted to this entrance.
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Monday’s road trip to Bagni di Lucca…lots of photos…

This was the first bridge we drove across to arrive in the center of the town.



The view as we approached Bagni di Lucca, not the same town as Lucca, itself, which we’ll  also visit in the near future.



Notice the “no honking” sign. 
The vegetation was so thick as we drove along the Lima River while entering Bagni di Lucca, this was the best shot we could get until we arrived closer to the town.

Awakening early Monday morning, Tom suggested, “Let’s hit the road!”

Anxious to begin touring the many towns of Tuscany, an hour later, after a hearty breakfast, we were on our way, choosing the historic village of Bagni di Lucca for a few reasons; one, its river and bridges and two, its relatively close proximity…as the crow flies.

The last portion of the road as we began the descent into Bagni di Lucca.
The street is so narrow it only allows for one way traffic at a time at the upcoming “T”.  As a result, we sat at this light for no less than 7 minutes.

If we thought the drive to Boveglio to Benabbbio or Bovelgio to Collodi was winding and treacherous, we were kidding ourselves!  Never, in either of our lives, have we seen or experienced more hairpin turns, winding, hilly roads than along the drive today. 

Many of these building appear newer, although less interesting from the exterior. But many of them are hundreds of years old, built to last with simple exterior design, common in different times.

Tom, good driver that he is, and considerate of my tentativeness and, duh, our lives, drove carefully putting my mind at ease.  The scenery along the road warranted photos but with literally nowhere to stop, we missed many good shots.

Hairpin turns, every few minutes.



Historic ruins along the banks of the river remain a part of the properties (circa 1900’s) built over the centuries.


With little rain recently, the river bed was sparse of water in parts, the snows having melted some time ago.
Former Minnesota fishing enthusiasts, we couldn’t resist this fish as it swam in the Lima River, as we watched from the shore.
Outdoor cafes never cease to delight us, a novelty from whence we came.

Of course, once we arrived in Bagni di Lucca, we stopped many times visiting the historic sites, walking on narrow foot bridges across rivers, walking along the boulevards, all the while “ooh-ing” and ahh-ing” over one thrilling moment after another. 

How could any region be as breathtaking as Tuscany?

Over and over, I find myself saying, “How could we have lived our lives without seeing Tuscany?”  Its unique lush mountainous greenery caresses one charming Tuscan building after another.  Even the old dilapidated buildings are awe inspiring. 

It wasn’t easy to walk past this bakery.  The smell of fresh baked pastries wafted through the air.

Everywhere we walked, the sweet smell of blooming flowers filled our nostrils as we sucked in the heady perfume of Mother Nature.  Add the meticulous loving care the people of Toscana exercise to maintain its centuries old demeanor and style and you have one of the most enticing areas in the world. 

The sprawling Lima River seems to provide a backdrop for most of the interesting and historical buildings.

With much world ahead of us yet to see, we have no doubt that the memories we’ll gather from our short two and a half months in Tuscany will remain with us forever. 

Pretty mountain village, a mixture of old and newer buildings.

The following well written story Tom found online about Bagni di Lucca was taken from a real estate website, Casa Tuscany, that we found describes it best.  We borrowed these two photos.  All of the other photos are our own.

“One of the oldest and most famous towns in the province of Lucca, Bagni di Lucca is easily reached off the SS12, just past the Devil’s Bridge. This once-grand spa town has always been known for its curing waters, appreciated even in Roman times. 



Bagni di Lucca was frequented for centuries by noblemen and famous people and became known as the land of princes and poets. It became extremely fashionable during the 19th century when it became the meeting place for such distinguished people as the poets Byron, Shelley, Browning, Lever, Giusti, Monti, Carducci, Pascoli, Montale, writers such as Dumas, musicians such as Strauss, Listz, Paganini, Puccini, Mascagni and politicians, saints and popes. Heine described it as “a true and proper sylvan paradise. I have never found a valley more enchanting, even the mountains are nobly formed and not bizarre and Gothic like those in Germany.”



The English came to know Bagni di Lucca as the ‘Switzerland of Tuscany’ and its prestige at that time led to the construction of an Anglican church, an important suspension bridge, the Ponte delle Catene, a neo-classical temple and the Villa Demidoff, the casino, where roulette was invented in 1837, the Circolo dei Forestieri, the foreigners club, now an upmarket river-front restaurant and numerous important villas immersed in greenery. 

Also characteristic are the feudal and medieval structures of the mountain villages, rich in history, traditions, legends, and some with Romanesque parish churches, such as Vico Pancellorum and Pieve di Controne.”

 

Now, with a plan to continue to reach out to more villages in Tuscany, week by week, we find ourselves considering that we may not choose to drive the huge distances to the tourist packed areas in Italy, perhaps focusing our attention around Florence and Tuscany.  After all, our plan all along has been to do “what feels right to us” as opposed to “what others think we should do.”

Walking across this foot bridge we commented about its sturdy feel. Looking online, we found this story about the “New Stress Ribbon Pedestrian Bridge.”

Yes, we’re happy we had the opportunity to experience Venice.  But, the crowds were such a damper to our visit with tourists at one’s elbow at every step.  A gondola ride, once savored as a “must do” became dull and uninteresting in the massive “traffic jams” we witnessed on the canals.




Danita Delimont Bridge was built in the 1700’s.  Walking across we were impressed by its strength and stability. 
This old bridge couldn’t have been more well preserved while maintaining the significance of its historical design.



Google Translate wouldn’t translate this for us.  Anyone want to assist?

Here in Boveglio, there are few tourists, no crowds, no waiting in line.  We may be two of a handful of tourists.  There are a few B & B’s in the general area.  We’ve yet to speak to one English speaking tourist or resident.  For us, this adds to our experience. 

The only spot where we saw rapids on the Lima River.

Without a doubt, we’ve loved all of the fun and interesting people  that we’ve met on our eight cruises, many of whom we will remain in touch with by email and our blog. However, in one’s everyday life, one doesn’t necessarily make new friends every few months. 

This riverfront property, although appearing newer, could well have been 200 years old.

Many friends we know and love, seldom entertain or socialize beyond an occasional get together, often as infrequently as once or twice a year.  In most cases, this is the norm for middle aged and older people instead spending more time with family.



The footbridge lead to the past behind me, where we wandered around.
As we stepped off the footbridge, we noticed this rushing water channel alongside the river.

Social butterflies that we are, we fully enjoyed the interactions on the cruises, but are quite content just being together, day after day, in our own little world, that, in essence with readers all over the world may not be so small after all.  We don’t feel isolated.  


Tom, at the park by the river.  One of our readers made a comment that his white tennis shoes are a dead ringer for a tourist. Apparently, Europeans wear darker colored shoes. Although, we’re not ashamed to be tourists, spending money and savoring every moment in the current country in our journey.

Of course, we miss our family and friends and always will, staying in touch by Skype and email as much as possible.  Someday, we will settle down, where we don’t know at this point nor do we worry about that eventuality.  Most likely, our staying put, wherever that may be, will add to our accessibility to our family members and hopefully our friends.


We called this a “camouflage” tree, based on the coloration and pattern of the bark.

For now, we continue on, with our new plan to further explore Tuscany upon awakening any morning, knowing today is the day to go, grab a map, load up in our iced tea, my tube of lipstick (no purse), our camera and Tom’s excellent driving skills to venture out on more of these crazy roads. 


Building a park around a historical structure is common from what we’ve seen of the world thus far.  Hard to read signs prevented us from determining the origin of this structure.

That, my friends, is what being retirement is all about…doing exactly what we choose each and every day, health providing, funds well-managed, rental car gassed up, and an easy spirit in our hearts to live life to the fullest, for as long as we can.


Sign near exit to footbridge.

Thank you, Bagni di Lucca, for yet another memorable day.

The humid valley as we drove back.  Later in the day it rained with thunder and lightening, the first time since we arrived.  The humidity is high each day due to the vegetation although not uncomfortable.  The fresh smog free air makes taking a deep breath refreshing and energizing.
Returning in the afternoon, we immediately ran around securing all the windows as a sudden deluge of thunder, lightening and rain ensued.  The cozy feeling was not lost on us as travelers intent on following the sun. 
Off we go, back to the hairpin turns and our carefully executed return drive to Boveglio, our new home.
The gardens were watered, the flowers soaked up the much needed moisture and the stone patios, streets and walkways were cleansed of their dust and soil.
This morning sunshine prevailed as it shone on the lush greenery surrounding us, maybe one shade greener than the prior day, if that’s at all possible.
 
 



Under the Tuscan Super Moon…”A Nightime Garden in Tuscany”…Cooking with herbs from the garden…

Aware that last night was the night of the full “Super Moon” we kept a watchful eye as the sun began to set behind the mountains. We hoped that redness in the sky would indicate a bit of warmth today, but its quite cool as it was yesterday was a sweater day.
We love photos of the moon, although my photo taking skills are limited.
Moments later, the clouds moving quickly.
Yesterday, a cool day, kept us indoors part of the day, with the veranda calling us to bundle up and partake of the beauty around us.  The brisk winds whipped around us as we huddled in our now “usual” spots overlooking the mountains and valleys of Tuscany. 
How quickly we forget the “chill” in Minnesota, finding ourselves whining about 55 degrees and a breeze!  We have been in relatively warm weather since last November, ranging from a low of 55 (Tuscany, yesterday) to a high of 105 (Dubai, a month ago), certainly nothing to complain about. 
Tom, dressed for warmth on the chilly day, still enjoyed lounging, time on the veranda. Can’t you tell by the smile on his face? When I packed that jogging suit, he said, “When will I ever wear that?” At least I got a few items right in my over-packing frenzy!
Although we never really get bored, with no Sunday Morning to watch, no news, no mindless drivel, all without a working TV, on chilly days we itch to get outside. With the poor Internet signal here and our MiFi not working, watching “free” online shows is sketchy. 
Using fresh herbs from the garden on our patio, we made Italian meatballs using the finest grass fed ground beef.
 Most TV series may be purchased on various sites which seem to work well for us with the Internet connection in the house. Prices range from $12.99 to $19.99 for a full season, certainly no more than renting a number of videos.
It was hard to believe that our hosts, Lisa and Luca had prepared this herb garden for our exclusive use while we’re here. 
Recently, at night we’d watched the entire 3rd season of Downton Abbey, one episode a night, and now we’re doing the same with the recent production of The Bible. Adapting to a different life than we knew.
Caring for and watering our herb garden is easy with this traditional Tuscan outdoor sink on the veranda.

With no air conditioning or fans in this house in Boveglio, we should be grateful for the cool nights. When we arrived over a week ago, it was in the high 80’s during the day, leaving us comfortable both day and night. The three foot stone walls of this solid house provide a definite cooling effect.

Last night after a fabulous dinner of homemade Italian meatballs made with herbs from our own garden on our patio, topped with Marinara sauce, stuffed with fresh, locally made mozzarella balls, topped with Provolone and Parmesan cheese, a side of fresh organic asparagus and a lofty salad, we felt a walk would be in order.

This window is above the stairwell that goes down to the basement where we wash clothes and access the main door.

As the sun started to set, as we anxiously awaited the appearance of the “Super Moon,” we walked up and down the various areas of the expansive yard with more growing gardens at our disposal. 

Tom suggested we take this shot again.  The last one we posted was unreadable due to the glare of the sun during the day.

A few special areas caught our eye. Although it was almost dark, we delighted in taking these nighttime shots of what we termed, “A Nighttime Garden in Tuscany.”

Learning to take photos has been a daunting task for me. When we acquired our new camera in April, we’d decided not to take the time to edit any of the photos. 

More herbs for our pleasure in the enormous backyard.

If a photo appears blurry from my lack of experience and unsteady hand, it is tossed into the recycle bin. Otherwise, you see them all here, some good, some not so good and some, often to my surprise, quite good.

Is this perhaps an old fashioned “courting bench?”  I wonder what stories this could tell.

Continuing to experiment with the zillions of settings on the camera, I’ve yet to find the perfect combination but continue to try. It astounds me that I do continue to try since I’m the sort who, if not naturally good at something, can easily move on to something else. Photo taking doesn’t come naturally for me.

Soon, these cherries will be ripe.  Due to my restrictive diet I can’t eat any fruit, but my eyes behold their beauty with great admiration.
Is this a pear tree?  Pears didn’t grow in Minnesota from my recollection.  We’ll verify our finds next time Lisa or her mother tend the gardens. 
With no cookbooks with me, I’ll be researching online for new recipes to make use of the wide array or herbs growing everywhere. 
Years ago, I was obsessed with Vinca Vines, growing this variegated leaf plant everywhere, including indoors where surprisingly, when watered frequently, they did quite well during the Minnesota winters. To see them here brought a warm feeling for my sister Julie, who shared my passion for Vinca Vines.
Anyone recognize these flowers?  Please comment if so.
Even a vine wrapping around a branch held special interest for us last night in the dark.
Sorry.  This is the second showing of these precious flowers by our mailbox. Gee, can we get mail here?  Supplies would be in order to take to Africa where we think we can’t get mail.
After taking photos on the grounds, we found our way to our usual spot on the veranda, awaiting the appearance of the “Super Moon.” As we sat down, we were disappointed when we didn’t see the moon in the same spot as the previous night.  

With many clouds in the sky, it didn’t appear to be enough to obstruct its view. Waiting patiently, chatting away, we squealed when suddenly it appeared to our left, big, bold and bright. Having yet to learn all the proper settings for moonlight, we winged it getting these, although not as clear and bright as we’d have liked, leaving us with a reminder of this special night for us in Boveglio, Lucca, Tuscany.
 Sooner or later, I’ll get it right.
Actually, so far, every night has been special in Tuscany. 
 Ugh, is that a plane, a bug or an alien spaceship?  Note the double exposure of the moon toward the center.  Bear with me.  I’m working on it.

A night on the town of Benabbio…A visit to an old church…This is why we travel…

As we began the drive to Benabbio…

As thoughts run through our minds that echo “this is why we are traveling the world” we sat on the outdoor cafe of Il Cavallino Bianco Restaurant, (the small white horse, a memory of one of the two owners, Alessandro) in Benabbio, Lucca, Toscana, Italy, waiting for the church bells to ring at 7:30 pm, when the restaurant upstairs opens for dinner.

The café and entrance to the only restaurant within a 1/2 hour drive from Boveglio, Il Cavallino Bianco, quaint and charming, to say the least.

We’ve discovered that Europeans eat dinner later than most of us, stay up later than most of us, nap during the day during a break time enjoyed by many individuals and businesses and awaken later in the morning.

Houses we encountered on our walk.

Clocking the winding hairpin drive from Boveglio to Benabbio takes exactly 11 minutes.  Last night, for the first time making this drive, as Tom maneuvered the Fiat Clio six-speed,  I was actually playing with the settings in our camera (still learning) with no “eyes peeled on the road” and no “white knuckles” hanging onto the dashboard. 

Mustard painted house across from the restaurant.

Perhaps the two of us, like the residents here, are becoming more at ease with the treacherous drive, giving it nary a thought, by rote making their way through the maze of guardrail-free twists and turns.

Arriving in Benabbio too early to dine, we busied ourselves walking around the tiny village, avoiding a few of the steepest hills difficult to manage in our casual dress shoes. 

With Vivienne’s minuscule grocery store still open on Saturday evening, we were anxious to pay our bill from last Monday when we had yet to acquire any Euros (she doesn’t take credit cards). Plus, we were running low on Prosciutto, our new bacon substitute. 

Vivienne’s grocery store, across the street from the restaurant.

Should we buy it before eating dinner and run the risk of it spoiling? Alas, as we stood at the counter, feebly trying to explain how much Prosciutto we wanted, we noticed that the deli meats were in a barely chilled case.  The salty processing most likely preserves it for a period of time, I suppose.  When we arrived at the restaurant, we fumbled in Italian, asking Alessandro for a bowl of ice, keeping it cold as we dined.

A sign in the town square describing the village’s history.

Vivienne had forgotten that we owed her Euro $23.60 for our last order.  Explaining this in Italian was quite the challenge.  When we handed her the cash for the meat, including the extra Euros, she finally shook her head in acknowledgment, gratefully accepting the money.  

We had yet to pay our bill to Alessandro for last Sunday night’s dinner, which we planned to settle at dinner.

Perusing the historic church across from the restaurant, which we’ll now frequent,  occupied a good portion of our waiting time. Although, we’re trying to figure out times for mass which wasn’t posted anywhere, not in the bulletin, not on a sign inside the church and not posted outside the church.

The interior of the church was austere and dark. 

Back at the café to the restaurant we were easily entertained even with the earsplitting chimes of the church bells, again ringing, helter-skelter, the cheering farmers waving as they passed by while riding their noisy tractors, the teenagers hanging outside Vivienne’s store and the locals on a leisurely walk before dinner. 

Above the doorway was the balcony for the organ.

At 7:30, we meandered upstairs to the main dining room, empty at that point. There were little slips of neon pink papers on each table, indicating a reservation. During the week, we’d made a reservation request online which I’d translated into Italian, hoping it would be read. As we wandered to each of the dozen or so tables, we began to worry we wouldn’t have a table.  None contained our name.

The old stone staircase leading to the organ.

A moment later, Alessandro appeared, excitedly pointing us to a well-placed table for two that was specifically ours. The neon pink note didn’t have our name but instead had some type of code. Fine with us.

The baptismal.

Within 10 minutes the remaining tables filled with patrons, leaving walk-ins to be turned away as the decibel level rapidly escalated to the loud Italian chatter among the guests. Again, the three-course dinner was grand, Alessandro remembers my food restrictions bringing salad, meats and vegetables, the finest balsamic vinegar, and olive oil.

The confessional.

Tom enjoyed beef ravioli with Bolognese sauce, Parmesan cheese, fresh-baked bread, and later, unbeknownst to him a huge platter of the finest freshly cooked thin-sliced roast beef (which we shared) and a plate of homemade fries.

Engraved in stone on the historic church. A literal translation from Google Translate: “For Antonio Michelini upright pious priest of this church for years XLV (45) Cappellano,  first parish priest lived industrious and zealous, born in MDCCXCIII (1793) died on October XXVI MDCCCLXIV (1864), the grandson saint with sad desire.  Here is where sleeps the sleep of the righteous conquest memory.”

Toward the end of the meal, Alessandro brought what appeared to be a one-pound chunk of homemade ricotta cheese to the table, mumbling in Italian to take it home, as a gift from him.  Wrapping it in a napkin, we placed it in the bag with the “bacon” all the while smiling so much our faces hurt. 

The church bells rang loudly as we relaxed at the café.

After Tom finished his 23-ounce Italian beer knowing I wasn’t willing to be designated driver on the mountain road in the six-speed Fiat, we asked for the bill, “Il conto, per favore.” 

Moments later, Vivienne, who also doubles as a waitress at the restaurant, appeared with our bill for Euro $33. Where was the bill for last Sunday night?  She summoned Alessandro.

Waving his hands in the air, he said, “Lisa, Luca, Boveglio, no no no!”  He was “comping” last Sunday’s meal due to our connection with Lisa and Luca, the owners of our house. Trying to insist otherwise was pointless. His mind was set. We decided to leave extra each week over and above the tip to cover the cost. 

The last time we had a “comped” meal when we were in Las Vegas with resident son Richard, who seems to get “comped” wherever he goes. And, I don’t recall any restaurant anywhere, ever giving us “free food” to take home.

Hoping to drive back before it was fully dark, we headed out the door at 9:20 walking through the bar on the main floor. The moment Alessandro saw us, he excitedly stopped us instructing us to wait as he ran behind the bar to extract a bottle of Limoncello, a favorite among Italians. 

Tom was wise only to drink this one 23 oz. Italian beer with lots of water on the side.

Tom graciously shook his head while wiggling his hand to illustrate the winding road, all the while saying “Boveglio.” Alessandro and another couple both nodded in understanding, as we all laughed. 

 
The ride home was uneventful, the almost full moon lighting the way. Tucked in our comfy bed by 10:00 pm, our smartphones in hand to read our books, we languished until after midnight, full from a great meal, content, and on one more occasion, knowing why.