Day 41…Still out to sea…Heading to Australia…Immigration and many time changes…

Our photo in Australia in 2015…The natural bond between mom koala bears and their offspring is always precious to observe.

Tomorrow morning, the ship will ease its way into Darwin, Australia, gliding into yet another port on this long voyage. Even after all these years of travel, there’s always a slight flutter in my chest on arrival days, not out of excitement for disembarking, necessarily, but because of the choreography of logistics, immigration procedures, and the small rituals that seem to come with every country we enter.

Even with our e-visas for Australia already applied for and approved months ago, there was still the somewhat tedious, time-consuming process of immigration officers boarding the ship. They set up in the dining room on Deck 5, checking visas and passports, making sure all the papers lined up with whatever boxes needed ticking. And, of course, there was yet another form for us to fill out, because no border crossing ever seems complete without one more form.

While Tom headed down to the Promenade Café with our laptops to settle in for his usual morning routine, I stayed behind in the cabin a little longer, gathering my laundry for the wash-and-fold service. It’s one of those small luxuries of cruise life that I hesitate to admit I’ve come to depend on. Once everything was neatly bagged, I left it for our ever-reliable stateroom attendant and made my way to Deck 5. Fortunately, the immigration line moved quickly, filled with the usual mix of sleepy passengers, early-morning chatter, and the soft hum of people fishing through their bags for the required additional documentation.

Even with today’s clearance complete, this won’t be our last tango with immigration on this trip. Once we reach the airport on December 13, we’ll go through Australian immigration again, not to stay, but to head onward to New Zealand. For anyone who hasn’t traveled this part of the world, the geography and politics can be a little confusing. New Zealand may seem close enough to Australia on a map to assume some shared visa or easy transit. Still, it’s an entirely separate country with its own rules, its own immigration procedures, and its own long-established identity.

And then, in a twist that always makes me laugh at the sheer bureaucracy of travel, when we return to Australia two months later to visit Tasmania, we’ll go through Australian immigration yet again. Tasmania, of course, is part of Australia, a full-fledged state, not a separate nation. It’s an island state located south of the mainland, separated from the mainland by the Bass Strait, rich in rugged wilderness, unusual wildlife, and the charming capital city of Hobart. It always amuses me that entering Tasmania from abroad requires the same formalities as entering Sydney or Melbourne, even though one feels like a frontier of wilderness and the other like the heart of bustling civilization.

For travelers new to all of this, these processes can feel overwhelming. The lines, the passport checks, the obscure forms asking questions that seem oddly specific, are enough to make anyone’s head spin. But for us, after thirteen years of full-time world travel, it’s familiar territory. Not necessarily enjoyable, but predictable, and that predictability helps.

One thing that has been less predictable this past month is the sheer number of time zone changes we’ve endured while cruising. Tom, ever the numbers guy, counted ten in total, including last night’s puzzling 30-minute time zone change as we approached the Northern Territory. These half-hour oddities are always a bit jarring, as if time itself decided to shrug and say, “Why not split the difference?”

Darwin, the capital of the Northern Territory, sits up at the “Top End” of Australia, bordering the Timor Sea. We’ve visited several times over the years, and while it’s a pleasant enough city, the port area doesn’t offer much beyond shopping, most of which will be closed anyway since we arrive on a Sunday. With that in mind, we have no intention of getting off the ship tomorrow. Sometimes, staying aboard is the more peaceful choice, especially when we’ve already been there, done that.

Despite the logistical dance, the time changes, and the length of this voyage, 41 days so far, it’s a long stretch, even for me; we’re still enjoying ourselves. There’s something comforting about settling into shipboard life, finding small routines, and letting the world drift by outside the balcony door.

We’ll share more as we move through this final week aboard Royal Caribbean’s Voyager of the Seas. Until then, may your own travels, wherever they take you, be smooth and pleasant.

Be well.

Photo from ten years ago today, December 6, 2015:

We moved to another island in Fiji for our remaining month in the islands. This is the kitchen in the new vacation home in Pacific Harbour, Fiji. For more photos, please click here.

Day 40…Fantastic day with Rita and Gerhard in Bali!…

No words can describe how wonderful it was to be together with our dear friends, Rita and Gerhard, whom we met in Marloth Park in 2018, who’d been following our site for years.

Seeing our dear friends Rita and Gerhard in Bali yesterday was the best possible port-of-call tour we could have imagined, the kind of day that fills the heart in a way no guidebook or excursion ever could. After Rita broke her foot on a tour in Africa a few months ago, she required months of recovery, a period that would test the patience of even the most resilient traveler. But in true Rita fashion, she and Gerhard decided to spend those months somewhere beautiful, warm, and soothing to the soul. They chose wisely. They’ve been tucked away at the exquisite Grand Hyatt Bali in Nusa Dua, a massive, lush, undeniably five-star resort that has been their temporary home these past few months.

The resort is massive with one exciting venue after another.

The resort itself was a sight to behold, sweeping grounds, carefully manicured gardens, and the kind of tropical serenity that makes you wish you could slow the day down just a little more. But as lovely as it all was, what mattered most was being with them again. There’s something about familiar friends, the ones who have walked alongside you through years, continents, and countless stories, that makes even the simplest moments feel elevated. Yesterday was one of those days.

There were countless pools throughout the property.

They picked us up in a taxi at the pier at 11:00 am, and somehow, despite the crowds and the bustle of disembarking passengers, we spotted each other instantly. The four of us piled into the vehicle, as no time had passed at all, and made the easy 20-minute drive to the resort, chatting nonstop the entire way. Upon arrival, we were given what they jokingly called “the Grand Tour,” and truly, it was. Their suite was nothing short of phenomenal, with breathtaking views, airy spaces, and that intangible sense of tranquility that only a few places in the world seem to capture.

Tom, taking with his hands as always.

As we wandered through the property and admired their temporary home, we slipped right back into our usual lively, animated banter. It’s funny how friendships like this move effortlessly between laughter, reflection, gentle teasing, and deeper conversation without missing a beat. We caught up on their months in Bali, on our recent travels, on the mundane and the extraordinary. It was wonderful, comforting, energizing, and grounding to be with them once again.

My dear Rita… we have such great memories of the past years we spent together, off and on, in many locations throughout the world.

Eventually, we made our way to lunch at one of the resort’s stunning restaurants, where the setting was as delightful as the company. The four of us savored a delicious meal while continuing our rewarding conversations, the kind that stretch well past the last bite and leave you feeling fuller in every sense.

Rita and I both ordered the delicious barramundi, my favorite fish in Australia.

I found myself surprised—and grateful—for how well I was able to walk. Rita and I held onto one another as we navigated the massive resort, two women in recovery, encouraging each other with each careful step. Still, we managed to rack up about 5,000 steps, an achievement that left us both smiling. It felt good to be outdoors, even wrapped in Bali’s signature heat and humidity, the air thick but somehow still comforting.

Tom and Gerhard ordered the pork tortellini, which they both enjoyed.

As the afternoon began to fade, we knew it was time to return to the ship. Parting was softened by the knowledge that we’ll see them again in about five months, this time on their home turf in Vancouver, Washington, when we’ll be back in the US for grandson Miles’ graduation. The thought of another reunion is yet another reason to look forward to our trip to the US.

This pumpkin and arugula salad was superb.

Once back on board, we slipped into our usual routine, dressing for the evening and heading to the R-Bar by 5:30. The routine of ship life after a day ashore is reassuring and comforting. We settled in for another delightful evening, enjoying the new and familiar faces, easy conversations, and gentle buzz of fellow passengers winding down after their own adventures. Dinner followed at a shared table in the main dining room, the perfect ending to a day that felt both full and restorative.

Many birds have made the resort their home.

It was, in every way, a memorable day—one that reminded us how lucky we are to have friends who feel like home, no matter where in the world we meet them.

Be well.

Photo from ten years ago today, December 5, 2015:

In Fiji, we enjoyed visiting the Vuodomo waterfall, requiring quite a hike through the rainforest. For more photos, please click here.

Day 38…Out to sea…What happened with our requested cabin change?…

Not our photos, although our cabin is similar.

Three weeks after I injured my knee in that unfortunate stumble in the corridor, we decided not to push the issue when the ship didn’t offer us a different cabin closer to the elevators. Perhaps we could have pressed it harder—others might have—but something in me resisted making a fuss. I told myself that the extra walking would serve as unplanned physical therapy. With that mindset, we unpacked, settled in, and accepted our location at the distant aft section of the ship. The cabin itself was perfectly fine, comfortable enough for these 12 days, and our cabin steward, “Hi,” has been nothing short of excellent, warm, attentive, and determined to keep everything spotless and organized.

Unpacking this time was easier than usual. After all, this final segment of the 47-night journey is the shortest of the three, so we didn’t need to unload every last item as we had for the earlier legs. Now, after several days, our things have found their places, the cabin feels like ours, and surprisingly, the long walks to the elevators have not been the burden I feared. If anything, they have strengthened my knee and encouraged me to move more than I might have otherwise. Funny how frustrations sometimes reveal themselves to be gifts.

This third leg of the cruise is noticeably busier, packed, really, with about 30% more passengers than the earlier two segments. I’d estimate that roughly 75% of them are Australian, with the remainder traveling from a mix of other countries. As far as we can tell, there are only a handful of Americans aboard. With these increased numbers, every venue feels hotter and louder, and the previously quiet corners around the ship now bustle with activity. We’ve also seen a significant increase in families with children, many traveling for the Christmas holidays, and quite a few college-age passengers filling the pool deck and the restaurants.

There’s no question that the atmosphere on the first two legs suited us better, quieter, lower-key, and more spacious. But that’s travel: circumstances shift, crowds change, and you adjust. And even amid the noise and heat, familiar friendships have brought bright pockets of joy. We’ve loved reconnecting with Michelle and Sheryl, whom we first met years ago on another cruise and later visited when we had a port of call in Perth. Michelle and her husband Carlo picked us up for a beautiful day of sightseeing, and spending time with them again now reminds me how fortunate we are to have gathered friends around the world like seashells from different beaches.

We’ve also met several lovely Australians at trivia and again at dinner over the past two evenings since they boarded in Singapore. I continue to believe that travelers share a certain unspoken kinship—an appreciation for stories, discovery, and a willingness to say yes. Every time we sit down at a communal table, I’m reminded how small the world truly becomes when strangers allow themselves to become friends.

But the highlight of this week is still ahead. Tomorrow, December 4, when the ship docks in Benoa, Bali, Rita and Gerhard will be waiting at the port at 11:00 am to pick us up. We’re spending the day with them, catching up, and returning well before our late-afternoon sail-away. I already feel the flutter of anticipation to see them once again. What a gift to share pieces of this journey with people we love.

It has been a remarkable run of reunions: first, Louise and Danie in Cape Town; then Ulla on the second leg; now, Michelle and Sheryl; and tomorrow, Rita and Gerhard. To think of all these lives woven into our own, thread by thread, story by story, reminds me how deeply this travel life has expanded our world. We never, ever take these friendships for granted.

Today is a calm sea day, the ocean flat and silvery as we move steadily toward Bali. At the moment, we’re seated at the Promenade Café, where, no matter how crowded the ship becomes, we’ve surprisingly always managed to find our same cozy banquette corner. I type away on today’s post while Tom watches U.S. football on his laptop with his earbuds in, shaking his head every so often when a play surprises him. It is an odd little rhythm, but after so many years together, it feels like home.

For all the extra passengers, extra noise, and extra walking, we have no complaints. We are grateful, truly grateful, for these long stretches at sea and for this chance to experience the world slowly, one port, one friendship, one sunrise at a time. And yet, part of the joy is also looking ahead: tomorrow with Rita and Gerhard; and in only ten days, our upcoming lovely home in Kaiwaka, New Zealand. Another chapter is waiting.

So we carry on, content, hopeful, and eager for whatever comes next.

Be well.

Photo from ten years ago today, December 3, 2015:

The hot springs are where many locals cook their potatoes and root vegetables. For more photos, please click here.

Day 36…Singapore, port of call…Waiting for several hours to access our cabin…Rough night…

View of Singapore from the ship.

The last time I remember looking at the clock, it blinked back at me with an unforgiving 4:00 am. Only three hours later, I heard Tom getting up, his careful footsteps and the sound of the shower telling me morning had arrived far too soon. Knowing we had to check in at the main dining room by 9:00 am as consecutive passengers, I dragged myself out of bed as soon as he was done in the bathroom. Those mornings when sleep has barely graced me always feel like wading through molasses—the simple act of showering and getting dressed becomes a slow, deliberate process, each step requiring more focus than it should.

I stuffed my pajamas and a few last-minute odds and ends into my bag, grateful that at least packing was minimal for this short transition day. Usually, anticipation of travel or logistical tasks doesn’t disrupt my sleep—after all these years on the road, constant movement has become second nature. But last night’s inexplicable insomnia threw me entirely off balance.

After checking in with our Indonesian and Australian e-visas in hand, we made our way to the Promenade Cafe, where the aroma of fresh coffee gave me the slightest boost of hope. We settled into our usual corner, hopeful we could get started on today’s post, but quickly discovered the ship’s WiFi had been shut off during the disembarkation and embarkation process. Fortunately, our T-Mobile hotspot came to the rescue. It wasn’t lightning fast, but it worked well enough for us to begin catching up. As soon as the ship’s WiFi comes back online—any minute now—we’ll switch back, since we’ve already paid for the service for this final leg of our back-to-back cruise.

We spent over a week in Singapore the last time we were here, and on other occasions as well.

From our seats, we watched the familiar rhythm of turnaround day unfold: departing passengers rolling their suitcases toward the gangway, crew members resetting stations with the quiet efficiency we’ve come to admire, and the early trickle of new passengers boarding. There’s always a comforting predictability to this process, a sort of intermission between chapters of ship life.

While we waited, our dear friends Diana and Peter stopped by the table to say goodbye. In just a few weeks, casual greetings in the R-Bar and main dining room had grown into warm, easy conversation, the kind of connection that feels so natural you forget it’s only been a short time. They’re hoping to visit us in Marloth Park next August, an idea that feels both exciting and surreal. We genuinely hope it works out for them; sharing that extraordinary place with friends is always such a joy.

We also said goodbye to Salli, Barbara, and several others we’ve met along the way. It always amazes me how ships create their own little temporary communities. Each voyage becomes a microcosm of shared routines, passing familiar faces at the Promenade Cafe, seeing the same folks at dinners, and exchanging travel stories at random moments. These friendships, whether brief or long-lasting, become part of the fabric of our journey.

We’re still waiting to hear whether we’ve been moved to a more suitable location on the ship. If not, we’ll have to accept the reality of the distant cabin on Deck 6, tucked so far from the elevators that it feels like a daily pilgrimage, especially with my knee still acting up.

View of Singapore’s skyline.

There’s something about cruise days like this, turnover days, full of new faces and rolling suitcases, that makes everything feel temporarily suspended. The crew is busy preparing, the ship hums with anticipation, and we’re simply waiting, caught between hope and resignation. We won’t know anything until the last of the new passengers has boarded and we’re minutes from casting off from Singapore.

Until then, all we can do is sit with the not-knowing, our bags waiting to be unpacked, our minds half-settled, reminding ourselves that after years of living on the move, flexibility isn’t just a skill. It’s our daily practice.

Once the newly arriving passengers board, we’ll see our old friends Michelle and Sheryl, who are boarding here in Singapore. It will be fun to see them again since our last get-together in 2018.

Despite the exhaustion tugging at me today, there’s a soft comfort in knowing that even sleepless nights and groggy mornings still find their way into the larger, ongoing story of our travels. Not every day is seamless or restful, but each one carries its own small mosaic of experiences… goodbyes, quiet frustrations, and tiny triumphs that remind us why we embrace this ever-changing life at sea and also while traveling on land.

Be well.

Photo from ten years ago today, December 1, 2015:

Private pier at the Cousteau Resort in Fiji. For more photos, please click here.

Day 35…Last day of the second and final leg of our 47-night, back-to-back cruise…Packing today…Changing cabins tomorrow…

A Christmas tree on Deck 5 was decorated overnight, after Thanksgiving ended.

Over the years of cruising, we’ve learned many lessons, some the hard way, and recently, one of those lessons resurfaced with an uncomfortable thud. When we booked this cruise, we chose what’s called a guaranteed cabin, a term that sounds promising, almost luxurious in a vague sort of way, as if it means you’re assured something special. In theory, that’s the appeal: you’re guaranteed a cabin within the category you booked, or possibly even an upgrade if availability allows.

What they don’t explain quite so clearly, at least not in a way that resonates until you live it, is that while you’re guaranteed a cabin, you’re not guaranteed to like where it is. We knew this possibility existed, but figured that saving over US $1000 was worth any potential challenges. Little did we know, I’d fall and injure my knee. Up to that point, walking on the ship had worked out well for me, and I wasn’t experiencing any issues.

A guaranteed cabin means you allow the cruise line to assign your stateroom at their discretion. They select the cabin for you, sometimes not until shortly before sailing or even after boarding. For those willing to roll the dice in exchange for a lower fare or a shot at a surprise upgrade, it’s an enticing prospect. For travelers with no mobility issues or who don’t mind being at the far end of a long corridor, it might be a non-issue. But for us, especially right now, it’s proving to be a complication we wish we’d avoided.

As many of you know, my knee is still painful almost three weeks after the fall. Walking long distances feels like dragging a cement block through molasses, slow, painful, and exhausting; however, it’s improved considerably over the past week. The cabin we’ve been staying in has been reasonably close to the elevators, a blessing I’ve appreciated each time I’ve hobbled down the hallway. But because we’re consecutive passengers, continuing on for the next segment that begins tomorrow in Singapore, our guaranteed cabin status now means we must move. And not just move a few doors down, but move to another location entirely,  much farther from the elevators.

We went to guest services a few days ago, hoping to plead our case. Surely, we thought, they could make a note, or make a swap, or at the very least commit to finding us something closer. After all, we aren’t asking for an upgrade, only a location that doesn’t require an Olympic-level trek. The young crew member behind the desk was pleasant but immovable. She explained that they simply couldn’t promise anything until the new batch of passengers boards tomorrow in Singapore, and they’ve seen which cabins open up after no-shows and cancellations. Only then, they said, might a more accessible cabin become available, but there’s no certainty.

This means that tonight, between 7:00 pm and 11:00 pm, we must pack everything, every shoe, every cable, every miscellaneous item that has slowly migrated across the small surfaces of this cabin, and place our luggage outside our door to be taken away. They will move our bags to whatever stateroom we’ve been assigned overnight. We won’t know which cabin that is until sometime tomorrow, when guest services calls or leaves a message on the stateroom phone. And until we know where we are assigned, we won’t have our luggage or access to the room.

Adding to the absurdity, none of us, including those who are continuing on the next voyage, are allowed access to our new cabins until 1:00 or 2:00 pm tomorrow afternoon, after they’ve completed the cleaning and preparation for the next round of guests. So we will spend tomorrow morning and early afternoon wandering the ship with whatever we keep in our carry-on bags. I suppose we’ll stake out a quiet corner somewhere with our laptops and wait for the news.

Tonight, when we pack, we’ll have to think carefully about what needs to stay with us for the night: my prescriptions, pajamas, a change of clothes, and minimal toiletries, including our laptops and chargers. Anything else will disappear into the abyss of luggage carts until sometime tomorrow. It feels strangely vulnerable, this temporary state of limbo, reliant on forces entirely beyond our control.

For now, I’m frustrated and, admittedly, a little embarrassed that we didn’t foresee this inconvenience. In hindsight, we should have booked a specific cabin assignment to ensure a location that worked for my current limitations. That extra certainty would have been well worth whatever price difference existed.

Lesson learned, once again: a guaranteed cabin doesn’t guarantee convenience, comfort, or location. It guarantees only a place to sleep…somewhere.

We’ll breathe easier once tomorrow is behind us, when we’ve unpacked yet again and settled into whatever cabin fate and the cruise line assign us. Until then, we brace ourselves, we pack, we hope, and we wait.

Be well.

Photo from ten years ago today, November 30, 2015:

A sandy beach along the quiet road we frequently traveled in Fiji. For more photos, please click here.

Day 34…Not the Thanksgiving we expected…

Jewelry shop on the ship.

Thanksgiving didn’t unfold quite as we’d imagined this year, although life on the road—or, in this case, at sea—rarely adheres to our expectations. It was late afternoon when I noticed Tom slowing down, his eyes tired and glassy, the way they get when he’s trying to pretend he’s fine. By dinnertime, it was undeniable: he was coming down with a cold or flu. Out of an abundance of caution and not wanting to infect others, we decided not to sit shoulder-to-shoulder in the main dining room, and we took the safer route with Thanksgiving dinner in the buffet, keeping to ourselves. The thought of streaming a few shows afterward in the comfort of our cabin felt more appealing than pushing through a formal meal surrounded by hundreds of passengers.

We walked into the buffet with tempered expectations, yet still hoping the holiday meal might evoke a little hint of home. How wrong we were. The turkey offerings sat under hot lights that did them no favors. Tom’s slice of white meat was dry enough to require more than one sip of water to get down, while my supposedly “dark meat,” usually my favorite, was fatty, rubbery, and still covered in skin that hadn’t crisped in the way dark meat should. The side dishes weren’t much better. Other than mashed potatoes and gravy, both passable but uninspired, which I don’t eat, there wasn’t anything that resembled the comforting, traditional spread we’d envisioned.

I picked at a small portion of cabbage and aubergine, grateful for something edible, but it was a far cry from the Thanksgiving meals we’ve cobbled together around the world. The holiday meal had become something we no longer tied to location, but rather to the shared ritual of making do. This time, though, making do was pushing even our flexible standards.

We never make any purchases at the jewelry shops on ships.

When it came time for dessert, I could see the disappointment on Tom’s face. He loves pumpkin pie, really loves it, and it’s the one item he looks forward to no matter where we are. But instead of pie, the buffet offered small two-inch squares of pumpkin cake smothered in a thick layer of cream cheese frosting. Not even close. Tom took one look, shook his head, and told me he’d pop down to the main dining room to snag a piece of actual pumpkin pie. “I’ll be back shortly,” he said. I believed him.

But shortly turned into 30 minutes, and just as I began to wonder if he’d been waylaid by conversation, or had given up. He finally returned, triumphant but tired. He’d been given two tiny slivers of pumpkin pie, just enough to fit into the palm of his hand. He’d taken them to the cabin for safekeeping, intending to enjoy them later. I knew better than to eat one. When he finally had them during an episode of Big Brother, he admitted they were mediocre at best. Sometimes the anticipation is sweeter than the reality.

There is a significant markup on products in the ship’s shops.

That night was a rough one. Tom coughed and sneezed through the dark hours, and although he insisted he felt fine, it was clear the virus had settled in. By morning, he was surprisingly chipper again, which was a relief. We didn’t want to miss the lovely dinner planned with newfound friends—Diana, Peter, Barbara, Salli, and others—at a table for ten in the dining room. The evening was everything Thanksgiving wasn’t: warm, lively, easy. The kind of effortless gathering that reminds us why we enjoy meeting fellow travelers so much. For a few hours, the previous night’s disappointment faded completely.

But as fate would have it, the following night became my turn. Somewhere before bedtime, an army of sneezes marched in, insisting on keeping me awake for hours. I recognized the sensation immediately. It was the tail end of that virus I’d had three weeks ago, the one that lingered despite the Tamiflu that had spared me the worst symptoms. This morning, though, I woke surprisingly improved. The coughing has all but vanished, replaced only by a deep tiredness that seems to settle into my bones.

Some of the offerings are pretty, but nothing interests me. I lost interest in such items years ago.

As I write this, I feel almost entirely recovered, save for the fatigue that reminds me our bodies always get the final vote. A nap is most certainly in order this afternoon. And while our Thanksgiving meal may not have been memorable for its flavor or presentation, it was still another chapter in this oddly beautiful, unpredictable, nomadic life we continue to choose, one imperfect, heartfelt day at a time.

There are only two days left on this leg ot the cruise. Tomorrow, we’ll pack to move to our new cabin the following day to get settled for the remaining 12-day cruise. Most of our friends will be disembarking in Singapore, but more will be boarding. Most assuredly, the good times will continue.

Be well.

Photo from ten years ago today, November 29, 2015:

Overall, the beaches in Savusavi, Fiji, are rocky. For more photos, please click here.

Day 32…Happy Thanksgiving to those who celebrate…Remembering Thanksgiving in the bush November 2018, menu included…

From left to right around the table:  Kathy, Janet, Steve, Don, Louise, Danie, Leon, Dawn, Uchi, Evan, while Tom and I shared the end of the table. Total in attendance: 12.

The two days leading up to our Thanksgiving dinner felt like a marathon held under the unrelenting African sun. With the heat pressing in on us, an almost tangible presence, I kept reminding myself that we had chosen this life, this adventure, and that moments like these are as much a part of our story as the quiet evenings on the veranda. Tom and I worked shoulder-to-shoulder through it all. Yes, I handled most of the cooking, but he peeled mountains of potatoes, washed endless stacks of dishes, helped with the pies, set up the veranda, and stepped in wherever he could. When it comes to hosting, we truly do operate as a team.

Thanksgiving dinner on the veranda with friends.

I tried to remember the last time we’d prepared a full dinner for twelve. The year must have been 2012, sometime before we locked the door of our Minnesota home for the final time. I had forgotten the sheer effort involved, not just the cooking, but the coordinating, the timing, the constant motion. Yet, as soon as friends began arriving and the laughter began floating across the veranda, I knew it was worth every sweaty minute.

For a brief moment, though, I feared we might miss our 7:30 pm “dinner-is-served” target. I had a few dishes left to reheat and, wouldn’t you know it, the new microwave refused to cooperate. With the clock ticking, I abandoned the idea and quickly reheated everything on the stovetop. It wasn’t elegant, but it worked. In the end, we were only ten minutes late sitting down. A victory, really.

On the right, Evan, Uschi, Dawn, and Leon.

The dinner unfolded in the most delightful way. Each couple received an entire stuffed chicken, surrounded by an array of sides that filled the table with color and aroma. The enthusiasm in their faces, the pleasure of tasting foods many hadn’t eaten in years or ever, was the best reward of all.

When the meal wound down, we invited everyone to pack leftovers using the takeaway containers Dawn and Leon had brought from Jabula. Watching our friends playfully fill their boxes reminded both of us of all those years back in the US, when family members left our house, balancing containers of leftovers and, of course, a pie.

Each couple got their own roast stuffed chicken with leftovers to go.

On the pool table, the full-sized pumpkin pies were lined up, ready for each couple to take one home. We served a separate pie after dinner, topped with whipped cream, as requested. I told myself I’d resist, but who was I kidding? I sampled a bit of this and that. How else could I be sure everything tasted right? By the end of the night, I even allowed myself a sliver of the regular pumpkin pie. A holiday indulgence, I suppose.

On the left, a pan of extra stuffing; in the center, sweet potatoes (they are light-colored here in South Africa, not orange as in the US.

The next morning, with no leftover chicken but plenty of sides, we decided to roast a “flattie,” some chicken livers, and a few bone-in breasts. That will carry us through several easy dinners. I’m back to my usual way of eating, content with chicken, salad, and steamed spinach, while Tom happily anticipates digging into the stuffing, mashed potatoes, sweet potatoes, rolls, and pie. That man never met a carb he didn’t love.

Low-carb mashed cauliflower.

The aftermath of a dinner for twelve is no small thing. Dishes everywhere, serving pieces scattered, napkins in need of washing. Louise, thoughtful as ever, arranged for Vusi to come this morning. Even so, Tom, who hates leaving dishes overnight, ran the dishwasher twice before 6:00 am, trying to lighten the load. I washed the linen napkins, cleaned the counters, did laundry, and organized the refrigerator.

Traditional green bean casserole. Kathy brought the fried onions back from the US! Thanks, Kathy!

Despite the bustle of the previous night, our wildlife friends still wandered into the garden. Tusker appeared briefly, and our inseparable warthog duo, Siegfried and Roy, came looking for pellets, responding to their names no matter which of them we called. Even in the chaos of hosting, those simple, familiar interactions anchored us.

Here were my eight less-than-perfect pumpkin pies for the Thanksgiving dinner, with impossible pie crusts made at 104°F, 40 °C.

As promised, here is the Thanksgiving menu we printed and placed at each table setting, our small attempt to help everyone pace themselves through a feast prepared with love, sweat, and more than a few moments of improvisation.

Menu

Thanksgiving Dinner in the Bush

Sundowners with Light Snacks

Roasted chickens

Stuffing with Sausage, Mushrooms, and Onions

Mashed Potatoes with Creamy Gravy

Buttery Mashed Cauliflower

Sweet Potatoes with Fresh Pineapple and Cinnamon

Broccoli Salad with Crunchy Almonds and Sultanas

Green Bean Casserole with Crispy Onion Rings

Cranberry Sauce

Homemade dinner rolls

Pumpkin Pies

Whipped Cream Topping, if desired

Happy Thanksgiving to all of our family members and friends who celebrate, wherever they may be in the world.

Be well.

Photo from ten years ago today, November 27, 2015:

Ocean views in Fiji never disappoint. For more photos, please click here.

Day 31…Another sea day…Remembrance of pumpkin pie making the day before Thanksgiving in the US and again in Marloth Park, South Africa…

Here were my eight less-than-perfect pumpkin pies, made on a 104°F, 40 °C day, for a Thanksgiving dinner celebrated with friends in the bush on November 17, 2018. It was impossible to roll the homemade dough in the heat and humidity. Thus, I called the post a “Pie day from hell.” See the post here.

In November 2018, we celebrated Thanksgiving deep in the bush, surrounded by 12 friends from all over the world, only a handful of whom were Americans. Somehow, that made the holiday feel even more special, our own little pocket of tradition in the middle of wild, unfamiliar terrain. The heat was relentless that day, the kind that settles on your skin and refuses to budge. Making pie crusts in that swelter became the baking challenge of my life, as evidenced in the photo above. Yet, despite the melting butter and my fraying patience, the pies and the memories were worth every sticky moment.

Today, on the day before Thanksgiving in the US, I can’t help but drift back to those earlier chapters of our lives, long before we ever imagined living out of suitcases and watching the world unfold from country to country.  It’s funny how certain holidays have a way of tugging at old memories, not in a sad way, but with a kind of soft nostalgia that wraps itself around the edges of the day. Thanksgiving was always one of those holidays for me, a whirlwind of preparation, a labor of love, and a marker of the life we once lived.

The night before Thanksgiving used to be one of the busiest, warmest nights of the year in our household. Armed with my treasured collection of 9-inch glass pie pans, accumulated over decades, each with its own history of returning faithfully to my cupboard, I’d dive into what felt like a pie-making marathon. I made pumpkin pies “to go,” one for every family who would be joining us at the table, plus extra pies for the feast itself and, of course, a few reserved specifically for Tom, who always enjoyed a slice or two the following days. It wasn’t unusual for me to bake as many as ten pies in a single day.

Each year, I offered my gentle reminder that I needed those glass pie pans back, and every time, our family and friends complied without hesitation. They knew how special those pans were to me, not because of their monetary value but because of the memories baked into them, year after year of holidays, laughter, and shared meals.

I had my special pumpkin pie recipe, one I never strayed from. There was comfort in that routine, the familiar spices, the deep orange filling, the scent that drifted from the oven and wrapped itself around the whole house like a warm blanket. And then there was the crust. I always used Martha Stewart’s pie crust recipe, rolling each one by hand, determined never to yield to the convenience of those store-bought versions. They simply couldn’t compare, the texture, the flavor, the flaky richness of a homemade crust just couldn’t be replicated.

As our grown kids paired off and welcomed families of their own, the Thanksgiving ritual expanded right along with them. It wasn’t just pies they took home anymore. I lovingly wrapped leftovers “to go” for each family, little packages of the day’s joy, meant to be savored one more time in the comfort of their own homes. To make this possible, I often prepared two turkeys weighing over 20 pounds each. I would wake early in the morning, sometimes before the sun peeked through the windows, and begin the long dance of roasting and basting, timing everything just right so the meal flowed seamlessly onto the table.

Those were hectic days, yes, but they were also deeply fulfilling. The house buzzed with conversation, chairs scraping across the floor, children laughing, adults catching up, and the comforting clatter of serving spoons dipping into steaming bowls. It was work, but it was joyful work, a celebration of family, abundance, and togetherness.

And now, here we are, worlds away from those bustling kitchens and heavy grocery bags, spending Thanksgiving Eve somewhere across the globe. Our lives look so different these days; no pie pans to collect, no turkeys to prep, no countertops overflowing with ingredients. Sometimes I miss those moments, but more often, I carry them with gratitude. They are part of the mosaic of our lives, one that still warms my heart even as we celebrate holidays in new and unexpected ways.

Travel has changed our rituals, but it hasn’t changed the essence of Thanksgiving for me: remembering, appreciating, and savoring the sweetness of all we’ve been blessed to experience, then and now.

To all our family and friends around the world who celebrate this special day, we offer each of you a heartfelt Happy Thanksgiving.

Be well.

Photo from ten years ago today, November 26, 2015:

View of Nawi Island in the village of Savusavu, Fiji. For more photos, please click here.