Most extraordinary day yet…Is this really happening?…

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On Thursday morning as I stepped outside onto the veranda, camera in hand, this was the first thing I saw. Quietly alerting Tom, who was still inside the house, he rushed out to witness this same sight. And then, in minutes they were everywhere. No words can describe our elation.
At first, we thought there may only be a few when we saw only this one. Giraffes hang out in groups, often changing to a new group every few hours with no special loyalty to any grouping, other than moms and a baby of which only one is born at a time.
Walking out onto our driveway we were able to see the others arriving.

It won’t always be this exciting. After a while, we’ll have shared more and more new photos of visitors that have already visited us in the past. But for us, this is only the beginning of our adventures in South Africa. 

As they entered the yard, they scattered about, making it impossible to take photos of more than a few at a time. 
They enjoyed nibbling on our untouched tree touch, full and flavorful from recent rains.  On December 21st, summer begins in South Africa. In the winter, the leaves will be gone, and everything turns parched and brown, leaving less food for the wildlife.
Scratching an itch.

In six days, we’ll pick up a rental car to use for our remaining days in Marloth Park. With many plans on the horizon over our remaining over two months, we’ll have much to share.

They often stopped dining to look at us. We kept our distance, not wanting to disturb and as an inducement for them to return another day with little intrusion from us.
Nice pose with the right leg bent.
Tom with three giraffes behind him.

We’ve found it’s best not to get into “what we’re considering doing” as opposed  to “what we have locked in, via dates and reservations.” Doing so prevents us from feeling pressure to follow through on the possibilities as opposed to the realities. This is low-stress living, right?

Adding a frame of reference in the driveway.
Reaching for a low lying morsel.

A lone warthog wanted in on the excitement. No problem. You’re in!

Tentatively, we present these photos today knowing full well that it will be a tough act to follow. Living in the bush anything exciting can happen at any moment, as we’ve already witnessed. We sit back in watchful anticipation, welcoming magical moments our way. 

Perhaps a bit of romance brewing? Check out the eyelashes on the female on the right, definitely involved in the flirting process.
The “togetherness” continued.
“Stop with photos already.  I have to fill up the right cheek with these tasty greens.”

We call it our “safari luck” that began when we went on safari in the Masai Mara in early October and saw the “Big Five” in the first ten hours in the vehicle with Anderson. Even he commented on how lucky we were. On the little plane when upon departure, many other travelers commented that they’d only be able to see four of the Big Five and their subsequent disappointment. Yes, we were lucky. 

This male was sitting in the yard taking a break from being so tall.

That same “safari luck” has been with us since arriving in Marloth Park only two weeks ago. This is evidenced by today’s photos. From the day we arrived, we longed for the Giraffes to visit, the visit Louise and Danie assured us would definitely transpire over a period of three months. And they did come. All 12 of them on Thursday morning, a day we’ll never forget.

“Please,” says Mr. Warthog, “one more photo of me and the tall ones. I’m always camera ready”

If this was a typical two-week vacation/holiday as most travelers plan when visiting Marloth Park, we would have had a rich and memorable experience. But for us, the fact that we have the opportunity to reach out and grab more of this magic leaves us humble and grateful.

We counted 12 giraffes as they gathered for their joint exit after their hour-long visit.

This morning when once again, the family of nine Warthogs appeared, standing in the bush partially hidden by low lying brush as if waiting for us to come outside. As we stepped to the railing to our veranda, they freely marched toward us, all nine of them, two moms and seven babies ready to make us laugh, ready to entertain us, and ready to respond to my goofy high pitched voice welcoming them. 

Thanks for the visit giraffes!
But somehow, we knew they’d return.

Not for one second, did we ever feel we’d had enough of them or that we’ll ever tire of their visits. If we have “safari luck” and the giraffes to visit another time, we’ll be in as much awe as we were this first time.

Your visit meant the world to us!

There is no doubt in my mind that when these three months come to a close, it will be difficult to leave all of this behind. It will be difficult to no longer constantly scan our surroundings for a hint of movement, the sound of hooves, a snort, a growl, or a gentle call. 

For now, we let those thoughts waft away to allow ourselves to live in the moment, knowing in our hearts that this, dear readers, is “Why,I always dreamed of Africa.”

Visitors and more visitors…Eight sets in one day…Astounding!…

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The following photos were all taken in our yard on Monday, December 9, 2013, between 8:00 am and 5:00 pm, during which we counted eight separate groups, none repeats, on that same day from what we could tell. The eight groupings are separated by paragraphs of text for easy viewing.
Various groups of kudu males came to call throughout the day. 
Notice the impalas in the background to the right.
The female kudu’s big pinkish ears perk up to full attention when we moved about taking the photos. We walked softly and whispered to avoid scaring them off.
This shot was taken while we were sitting at the table on the veranda. They were so close to the railing that we didn’t want to scare them off by standing up as they gingerly approached.
Their huge horns are a sight to behold.
She says, “What’s with all the photos?”  Notice the hair standing up on her back.

How can this be? How can we walk out onto the veranda each morning, coffee in hand, to not only find evidence of visitors in the rain-soaked driveway, but a wide array of visitors themselves coming and going throughout the day, often looking directly at us with curiosity? Of course, we return the look without fear in an effort to let them know they have nothing to fear from us, welcoming them to stay for as long as they’d like. After all, this is their home, not ours.

The impalas appear to be the most skittish of all the larger wildlife we’ve seen so far. We hardly breathed, taking this photo.
Blurry and distant, but none the less, in the yard.
We hoped they’d have moved closer to us. We were thrilled to see them.

Most often, they stay for an hour or more nibbling on trees or grass, to finally make their way to “greener pastures,” or, perhaps they are like us humans, making our way through the buffet line, anticipating the best morsel yet to come.

These zebras appeared to be a different group from those that had visited in the past. It’s not easy to memorize the stripe patterns, all different, but we’ve tried.
Many tourists have been known to hand feed the wildlife. As much as we’d enjoy this, we refrain for their safety and ours. Hand feeding them may make it difficult for them to forage for food and become too domestic. We chose to enjoy them in their natural habitat.
It felt as if these zebras were waiting for us to hand feed them, as they patiently stood at our railing. We don’t doubt they’ll return anyway.
They’d pushed the gate open!
Neither of these two zebras seemed to mind being in this photo with me.

How did we find our way to Marloth Park? How did we find this magical location? How was it that it popped up about 20 months ago on my computer screen to leave me anxious for Tom to return from work that evening anxious to tell him what my day of searching had revealed. 

Having gone inside for a moment, we missed the remainder of the mongoose family that ran off the moment we came back outside. Can’t leave for a moment!

At the time he said, “Oh, boy. What are we getting ourselves into?” Now, he says, “Oh, boy! This is unbelievable!” He loves it as much as I do.

This mom warthog is always staring at us with the babies in tow. If we move quickly, she’ll quickly jump away.
Our resident warthog family of two moms and seven babies, never fail to stop by and we never fail to welcome them.
Many visitors enjoy the shade under the carport.

We’d booked Kenya first, from photos we’d found on Homeaway. Once the booking for Kenya was cemented, we agreed, “If we’re going to be all the way to Africa, let’s extend our time there by visiting other countries.”

Later in the day, more impalas arrived to partake of the abundant greenery in the yard.
This impala posing made me jump for joy!

It was only a week or two later that I literally stumbled across Marloth Park. At the time, I felt that choosing Marloth Park was one step down from Kruger Park, a short distance away, which has hardly proved the case. This is definitely paradise. The price and private house with its many amenities was appealing. But, above all the lure of the wildlife roaming free around the house cinched the deal for both of us.

This appeared to be a separate grouping of males that visited later in the afternoon.
The kudu’s markings are consistent on the face; a white chevron on the bridge of the nose as well as an adorable white mustache.
Using a gentle voice they move closer to us.
Their spindly legs are well-formed and strong.
This amply horned male stood proud for us. No zoom was used in this photo.
We’ve developed a special affinity for these majestic animals weighing as much as 760 pounds, 366 kg. The biggest known kudu in Marloth Park, which we’ve seen once so far, is “Kevin” as named by the locals. We posted Kevin’s photo on the December 6, (click here to see) when we’d gone on a local game drive with Leon, the owner of Jabula Lodge.
One of the kudus is always on watch as the others nibble on bits of vegetation. They seem to love the greens at the base of this grouping of a few trees.
These young males practicing for next spring’s dominance to impregnate females. Sadly, on occasion, the male’s antlers may become locked. Unable to separate, they eventually die of starvation.

Now, having been to Kruger Park with its many lodges and resorts we know we’ve made the right choice for us. It was unaffordable to stay in a lodge for three months. We don’t care for camping. And, Marloth Park has proved to be beyond our wildest dreams. 

Although this photo is similar to another we posted a few days ago, this was from our eight group sightings on Monday, December 9th when later in the day the second group of zebras visited. The attendance of this young male prompted us to determine that these were new visitors.
This zebra was pushy, making light taps on the railing to get our attention.
Two heads are better than one.
“We love it under the carport! My turn!”
Zebras seem to be the most curious and fearless.
Unprompted by any noise or distraction by us, they decided it was time to leave our yard. As we’ve seen with other wildlife, the biggest male seems to “hold up the rear.”

Each new day brings an entirely new day of wonderful surprises that we’ll never tire of in our three months in Marloth Park, a much longer stay than most travelers.  But, it’s a pittance compared to the many homeowners that live here full-time or have made this area their second home which they visit several times each year.

Thank you, Louise and Danie, for providing for the comforts while we’re here, and thank you, wildlife, for gracing us with your presence. We’ll never forget.

An elephant ritual on the Crocodile River…A rainy morning in Marloth Park…

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The following elephant photos were taken as we stood at the Crocodile River overlook area on the Marloth Park side of the river.  These photos are presented in order of their occurrence over a period of approximately 40 minutes.  Our knowledgeable guide Chase, was at my side explaining the elephant behavior as it transpired. 
The first Elephant was waiting on the Kruger Park side of the Crocodile River.

Early this morning we checked the veranda to see if the weather would allow us to sit outdoors on the veranda all day. After seven cloudy days in a row with cool weather, we have few complaints.  But today’s rain will be the impetus for the first day we won’t  be able to spend the day outside since September 2, 2013.

This elephant began his trek across the river from the Marloth Park side in order to get close
to the awaiting elephant.  The river is loaded with Crocodiles who seldom attack adult elephants.  Boating on the river is strictly prohibited. 

Back out on the veranda, we looked around deciding if we will be “in” or “out,” preferably “out.”  There in the driveway stood two adult warthogs staring at us, as if waiting to see what we’d decide.  

He’s getting closer. (Chase explain this was definitely a male).

A pang of sadness washed over me watching them stand there soaking wet, their goofy sideburns flat against their homely faces.  “Sorry, Mr. & Mrs. Warthog,”  I said aloud, “Today you’re on your own.”  They turned and walked away as if they’d known what I’d said. 

Almost there.

It’s the rainy season now.  The lush greenery gets greener with the rain providing food for most of the animals in Marloth Park. Plus with too much shade from the trees and vegetation on the grounds, there’s no way for us to lay in the sun here, for our former one hour a day Vitamin D sessions.  Cloudy days are fine with us. 


Closer yet, after a few minutes of standing in place.

The multitudes of visitors we’ve had so far indicates that the clouds have little bearing on their desire to stop by, although today’s rain may be a deterrent.  We shall see.

Oh, oh.  What’s going to happen next?

Last night, we cooked dinner, after dining out three nights in a row.  When Louise had grocery shopped for us (thank you again, Louise) before we arrived, she’d purchased a slab of sirloin steak that required trimming and cutting.  I’d never bought such a slab, instead buying the “already cut’ steaks, ready to cook. 

The elephant on the shore is sniffing the arriving elephant.  Both males, this could result
in a scuffle.

Yesterday, I trimmed the fat and cut the meat into enough steaks to last for three nights.  The entire slab cost ZAR $179, US $17.54, which translates to ZAR $59.57, US $5.85 per night for both of our sizable servings.  Not too bad.

Finally, the Elephant on the shore walks away, satisfied that the approaching Elephant is no threat to him.

The steaks were flavorful and tender after leaving them in a marinade for a few hours. Adding a good sized bowl of our homemade coleslaw, Brussels sprouts, green beans and sautéed whole mushrooms, we had a delicious meal which we’ll repeat again tonight and tomorrow, using the remaining steaks to avoid re-freezing.  Three nights of steak and repeat sides?  No problem for us.  Simple is good.  Simple is easy.

Moments later, a third Elephant begins it’s trek across the river arriving from the Marloth Park
side, once again, to the Kruger Park side.  Is he a threat to the others?

After dinner, we watched a few shows, the most recent episodes of Homeland and Hostages and, episode four of The Amazing Race (we’re catching up).  Commercial free from Graboid, each hour long show lasts approximately 43 minutes.  Whether we dine in or out, we equally love the time we spend together. 

The three lephants get into a scuffle, determining who will be the dominating male.

Today, we share the remaining photos of Monday night’s visit to the Crocodile River.  Far from the wildlife, we did out best to get good shots but we apologize if they aren’t as clear as we’d like. With the limitations of our camera, we can only shoot from so far away.  Hopefully, these will prove to be worthwhile.

Alas, the decision was made and the three elephants proceeded up the hill in harmony, (Sorry for the blur.  My shoulder was killing me and I could no longer hold the camera steady for these long distance shots).

Tomorrow, we’ll be back with the photos of our eight batches of visitors in one day, an exciting day, we’ll always remember.  If we never went on another safari (which we will, of course), we’re content living in Marloth Park with Mother Nature’s wonderland surrounding us.

A hippo finally made an appearance above the water.
Two Cape Buffalos on the Kruger Park side of the Crocodile River.  Most likely, these are Retired Generals, banned for life from the herd when they couldn’t gain dominance over another male.  They hang out together due to “safety in numbers.”

It was a dark and dreary day…Who knew they would come?

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This is what awaited us when we went back onto the veranda.

The air was thick with humidity.  It sprinkled off and on.  A breeze picked up as we began feeling moisture clinging to our skin. We ventured inside grudgingly, worrying more about our equipment getting wet than ourselves.

They were as curious about us as we were them.

Our daily watch for visitors has become a playful and enticing pursuit, one filled with excitement and anticipation to see who in Mother Nature’s wonderland will grace us with their presence. 

Each zebra’s stripe pattern was as unique as each human’s fingerprint.

Once inside, we played Gin, with eyes peeled to the living room window every other moment in hopes of more visitors. The windows in the kitchen which could provide us with the best view are too high to see out, built to avoid rambunctious monkeys from eyeballing their potential “loot”. 

This guy stood under the carport for quite some time, watching over the other males.
Another zebra decided to try the carport spot while others looked on.

As a result, there isn’t a perfect spot in the house to easily see outside to the area where the wildlife most often gathers. It’s comparable to watching a ballgame while standing atop of one’s car with binoculars.  Not quite the same.

Sharing the vegetation.

Sitting on the main veranda provides the perfect view. Subsequently, we’ve been outside during daylight hours since arriving, a week ago today. Without a doubt, this will be our spot even when the summer heats kicks in, which as of yet hasn’t happened.

This guy decided to check out the garden and braai.
While playing Gin, Tom commented, “The sun is trying to come out and its beating on my back through the window. Let’s go back outside.” In my determination to finally beat Tom (I didn’t), I’d lost track of the outdoors for only a few minutes.
“Nothing like a drink of fresh rainwater from the fire pit.”

The moment we stepped outside onto the veranda, cards, scorecard, pen, and camera in hand, there they were, right in front of us, standing at the railing as if waiting for us, all six of them, all boys. A breath caught in my throat. All I could say was, “It’s unbelievable. It’s unbelievable.” Tom couldn’t wipe the smile off of his face. 

“Now, I’ll try this pool water. Nah, not so good. It kind of tastes like bleach.”

In respect for their space, we stayed behind the railing on the veranda letting them wander about without fear.  After all, this is their home. We’re the “visitors.” They stayed for over an hour content to munch on the grass and other vegetation, content to look at us, making eye contact that flipped my heart over in my chest.

Several of them used the tree branches to scratch themselves. 

I used the high pitched voice, gently, lovingly and they responded, ears flicking back and forth, hooves tapping the ground playfully. Had I died and gone to Heaven? This place, these creatures, all of God’s making, here in front of us. Would these gentle creatures suddenly grow wings and take flight?

Moments before this big boy peed, another boy had peed on this same spot. The big boy came over, sniffing the ground and peed on the same spot. This is similar behavior we’d observed in the past among our male dogs. Territorial marking. 

When they decided it was time to move on, the large male leader needed only to begin the hike up the dirt drive and they all followed suit. We weren’t sad to see them go. Certainly, they’ll be back. And, of course, we’ll be waiting for them.

Nothing like a little brotherly love.
“Let’s go for the hug instead of the kiss. It’s more manly!”

A walk in the park…Marloth Park, that is… Results in laughter and awe…

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While on a walk in our neighborhood Tom spotted this Ostrich that had wandered into a homeowner’s yard appeared to be fascinated by looking at himself in the window. 
I stealthily moved closer through the dense bush to get a closer shot without disturbing this Ostrich. Finally, he turned for a full view. The occupants were inside the house. We were able to hear and see them peering out the window with the same enthusiasm as our own.

Going for a walk in Marloth Park is like no other walk. I can’t imagine anywhere in the world, one can go for a neighborhood walk to discover the vast array of wildlife wandering about, nibbling on nature’s summertime bounty in the bush.

Very skittish, we were grateful to get this photo of three Impalas as seen in our yard. Notice the baby, kissing what many have been the mom. It appears the dad was behind them.

Never for a moment in our short time here will we ever take the sights or sounds of any creature for granted, whether it’s the tiniest of birds, an enormous hugely antlered Kudu, the roar of the lion, or the chatter and an occasional glimpse of the elusive nocturnal bushbaby.

These birds, the Helmeted Guinea-fowl were easy to find in the bird book Louise left with us.
I keep pinching myself. How did we get here? Cruise lovers, lie-by-a-pool aficionados, social butterflies, and above all, homebodies? How did we get here? Why are we, creatures of habit, creature comfort fanatics, living in the bush wallowing in the exquisite offerings of Mother Nature on steroids? Wow! Knock me over with an “Ostrich” feather (in Tom’s words)!
There were fewer flowers here than in Kenya (as a result of landscaping in Kenya), the few flowering plants in the bush all serve a unique purpose for the wildlife.

If this alone was all the adventure I was allowed after retirement, I’d be content. But more, is better.  Appreciated. Revered. Remembered. “Please,” I tell myself. “Don’t let everything after this be, a letdown.”  There’s so much world ahead of us. How will anything compare?

A few days ago, Tom had seen a flash of the monitor lizard, also referred to as the Monitor Crocodile.  While playing cards yesterday, one eye constantly scanning the bush, Tom alerted me to grab the camera as he noticed that this large creature had stuck it’s head out of it’s hole in order to look around.  I’d mentioned we’d get a photo this and there it was the next day!
The monitor lizard can grow as long as 15 feet/4.6 meters. As it slithered out of its protective hole, we were anxious to see its full length.

Tom had seen two of these a few days ago, but, they quickly disappeared when they saw him move. He is the smaller of the pair.  Louise told us that these particular monitor lizards enjoy swimming in the pool. We hope to see that!

For now, we chose to let those thoughts waft away to live in the moment cherishing every element of this unbelievable experience, as the fine taste, of the finest wine, that one enjoys only until the glass is empty, always longing for more, knowing nothing else can compare.

This warthog mom wanted a closer view of us as we stood at this railing, looking out over the driveway where the remainder of the family of nine was waiting.
Yesterday, this baby warthog seemed intent on coming onto the veranda for a more personal visit. To avoid upsetting the nearby mom, we gently moved toward it and it skittered off. There’s no lock or latch on this gate allowing any curious animal to wander inside.

Please, dear readers, humor me with the warthog’s photos that will appear here from time to time. These friendly, curious, up to 250-pound beasts (113 kg), are enchanting. Although skittish, running off if our movements are sudden or jerky, they can’t help but make eye contact that is as endearing as the gaze of one’s own beloved pet.

Don’t get me wrong.  We don’t approach them or take any risks around them, their babies, or any other animals for that matter The warthog tusks are razor-like. They could easily inflict a serious injury. They, like us, choose to observe and contemplate our intentions, never letting their guard down. 

I find myself speaking to them in the same high pitched voice I’d always used in speaking to our dogs, often resulting in that adorable head tilt that we all find so adorable. The Warthogs don’t tilt their heads, but their ears flick back and forth as they stare intently at us, making contact, communicating in their own way.

So please, bear with us as we share many more “visitors” photos as they come, never knowing who will grace our day with an appearance as we spend most of each day outdoors on the veranda.

 We were able to get this close up to the largest warthog we’ve seen this week, as he approached us. He’s got some serious bags under his eyes!


Today, it’s very cool and rainy, which may drive us indoors soon. It appears that the number of visitors and sightings are greatly reduced on rainy days. It’s been cloudy almost every day since we’ve arrived almost a week ago. After all, this is the lush rainy season that “restocks” the food supply of the animals. Knowing this gives us much comfort with neither us of annoyed with the clouds and rain.

This is the same huge male warthog above, hanging out with what may be his girlfriend. At the time, it was just the two of them in the yard. As she nibbled on greenery, he stood watching, never once taking a bite for himself. How gallant! Hopefully, they’ll stop by again so we can see how the courtship is progressing.

Tonight, we’re dining out trying yet another restaurant that we’ll report on tomorrow with more photos, as well as any sightings along the ride to dinner.

Mom warthog decided to allow one of her four babies to nurse alongside the braai.

We ordered and paid for a rental car that requires a drive back to the Mpumalanga/Kruger/Nelspruit airport on December 20th which, most likely, we’ll keep until we depart Marloth Park on or about February 28, 2014, when we fly to Morocco. With only 13 days to hire our driver, we’ll venture out, on game drives, bush dinners, dining out, and social activities as they occur.

A little bit nervous after Mom reprimanded the baby with a few aggressive nudges.

Soon, we’ll decide if it makes sense to purchase a seasonal pass to enter Kruger Park at our leisure, driving ourselves through the park. After this Sunday’s game drive, we’ll have a better feel for how practical this will be without a guide, which many chose to do. 

Duikers are extremely cautious, keeping at a fair distance illustrating how wild the animals in Marloth Park really are. They may be used to seeing humans roaming about, but they are not tame by any means, as one may assume.

We’ll return tomorrow with more photos and updates. Thank you from both of us for stopping by.

A baby impala cautiously checks us out from afar.

Nelson Mandela, a life lived for peace….Another separate post for today follows this as we appreciate his homeland…

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SA National Parks mourns the passing of #TataMadibaSouth African National Parks (SANParks) joins the world in mourning the death of world iconic former statesman, Dr Nelson Mandela. The Chief Executive Officer of SANParks, Dr David Mabunda passed on his condolences on behalf of SANParks. “It is befitting to pass our heartfelt condolences to Madiba’s family and the country as a whole.”Dr Mabunda said, the former statesman played a significant role in the formation of the Transfrontier Conservation Area concept and personally agreed to be a special patron of the Peace Parks Foundation which saw the establishment of the Greater Limpopo Transfrontier Conservation Area linking, the Kruger National Park in South Africa, Limpopo National Park in Mozambique, the Gonarezhou National Park, Manjini Pan Sanctuary and Malipati Safari Area in Zimbabwe as well as the Makuleke region of South Africa. Nelson Mandela, speaking at the handover of 1000 elephants on the border between South Africa and Mozambique in 2001, said in a world beset by division, he knows of no philosophy or ideology that does not agree with the Peace Park concept. "It promises to bring a better life to some of the poorest citizens of southern Africa… in many ways the project is a demonstrable manifestation of the African Renaissance," he stated at the time.Dr Mabunda recalled the former South African President Nelson Mandela saying that the elephants were part of his "lobola" after he married Ms. Graca Machel. “Our deepest condolences go to the Mandela family and every single South African in this dark hour. May we all be reminded of the sacrifices that Madiba made in shaping the future of our country Lala ngoxolo Tata Madiba.”
Nelson Mandela.

The following is an email we received, as visitors from South Africa, as a tribute to Nelson Mandela, who passed away on December 5, 2013.  We feel fortunate to be in his homeland as the celebration of his life and mourning for his loss become part of the culture we experience first hand in our midst. His contributions to the conservation of the wildlife of South Africa and Africa as a whole, allow us to participate in its vast wonders.

May he rest in peace having left a legacy that will remain in the hearts of many all over the world, forever.

Here’s the message we received: 

“South African National Parks (SANParks) joins the world in mourning the death of world iconic, former statesman, Dr. Nelson Mandela.

The Chief Executive Officer of SANParks, Dr. David Mabunda passed on his condolences on behalf of SANParks. “It is befitting to pass our heartfelt condolences to Madiba’s family and the country as a whole.”

Dr. Mabunda said, the former statesman played a significant role in the formation of the Transfrontier Conservation Area concept and personally agreed to be a special patron of the Peace Parks Foundation which saw the establishment of the Greater Limpopo Transfrontier Conservation Area linking, the Kruger National Park in South Africa, Limpopo National Park in Mozambique, the Gonarezhou National Park, Manjini Pan Sanctuary and Malipati Safari Area in Zimbabwe as well as the Makuleke region of South Africa.

Nelson Mandela, speaking at the handover of 1000 elephants on the border between South Africa and Mozambique in 2001, said in a world beset by division, he knows of no philosophy or ideology that does not agree with the Peace Park concept. “It promises to bring a better life to some of the poorest citizens of southern Africa… in many ways, the project is a demonstrable
the manifestation of the African Renaissance,” he stated at the time.

Dr. Mabunda recalled the former South African President Nelson Mandela said, that the elephants were part of his “lobola” after he married Ms.Graca Machel.

“Our deepest condolences go to the Mandela family and every single South African in this dark hour. May we all be reminded of the sacrifices that Madiba made in shaping the future of our country Lala ngoxolo Tata Madiba.”

Sunset game drive…First dinner out…A social life in the bush!…

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There’s something magical about the skies over Africa from what we’ve seen so far in Kenya and now in South Africa.

Photos and stories of our experiences in the bush are backed up by a few days and as we get closer to the upcoming game drive in Kruger Park this Sunday, ending with a dinner in the bush, in the dark. Each time we go for a walk or drive in the neighborhood, it’s an entirely new experience that we’re anxious to share with our readers.

Sunset over the farm we visited adjoining Marloth Park.

So, folks, I doubt we’ll have many days while living in Marloth Park that we won’t have photos to share. Every day is special in this amazing location.

This Kudu wouldn’t turn around to allow a full face photo.  If possible, please try to decipher the horns from the tree branches in order to see the enormity of his antlers.

For me, I am happier here than at any other of our past vacation homes. As remote as we are, almost a mile from another house, as stranded as we are without a car (yet), as many scary bugs as there are, with heat that could soon climb to 108F, 42C, I feel at peace, as if I belong here. I’ve longed for Africa since I was a child and at last, my dreams are fulfilled.

Oranges grow wild on the farm, totally unattended.
Most of the land in the 3000-acre farm is leased for farming without the use of chemicals. This is field of corn but we also saw sweet corn growing as the land is now leased to local farmers.


We made our way through some dense brush, slapping branches away from our heads and faces, laughing along the way.

For Tom, this is his second favorite location, Belize on the Caribbean Sea , was his first. We both loved the beautiful LaruBeyu; the pool, the short walk to restaurants. For both of us, the friends we made in Belize will remain as friends forever.

The Crocodile River, walking distance from our home, is filled with crocs, making it too dangerous to navigate by boat. On the opposite side of the river is Kruger Park. The fence, lightly electrified in a deterrent in keeping the lions and elephants out of Marloth Park, although a few lions manage to get through from time to time.


The bright glare of the setting sun impeded our photo taking of these elephants across the river. But, we were thrilled to get these. Soon, we’ll see elephants up close when we enter Kruger Park.
This fence also keeps the crocodiles from entering Marloth Park, although Tom saw two, what is referred to as a monitor crocodile near our pool when I had stepped indoors.  It appears they live in our yard.  Louise explained they like to swim in the pool.  I promise to get a photo of this when it occurs.

On Wednesday afternoon, Leon, the owner of Jabula Lodge picked us up at 4:30 for a private sunset game drive with dinner following at his restaurant, the top rated restaurant in Marloth Park, of which there are only a few. He’d decided to take us on a special outing, to a 3000 acre farm that required permission to pass through the security gates.

The sounds of the hippos is enchanting.  They’re most noisy early in the mornings.
Usually hippos hang out together in herds (or referred to as pods, bloats or dales).
This bird caught our eye.  Louise had brought us a bird book but we can’t seem to find this species without a clear view of its head. Please write if you are familiar with this bird, which appears to be a type of stork.

As we approached the guarded gates, Leon made a call to the manager of the huge farm, asking permission to take us inside. He handed the phone to the guard who was informed that it was acceptable for us to pass. Many treasures lie beyond these gates, as you’ll see from many our photos.

Leon and his older vehicle handled the rough terrain quite well. Bouncing around is now easy and familiar to us after our past experiences on rough roads.


Leon put on his shades for the photo we insisted on taking of him.

After our outstanding drive shortly before dark Leon brought us to his resort for what proved to be a fabulous dinner. It took a few explanations to the cook to get my way of eating clarified. Finally, we had a delicious meal, everything made fresh to order, while sitting outside on the deck on cushioned picnic benches with many other diners surrounding us. 

The entrance to Leon and Dawn’s Jabula Lodge.


Jabula Lodge is a friendly casual environment with beautiful grounds, charming buildings and an excellent highly rated restaurant with superb service.  Most likely we’ll visit once a week for dinner and to hang out with Leon and Dawn who are most hospitable.


Jabula Lodge is an appealing holiday property in Marloth Park, South Africa.

Leon made a special effort to ensure everything was to our liking and befitting my way of eating, leaving us feeling pampered and like old friends.  After dinner, we were told a couple sitting at a nearby table, also experienced world travelers, were curious to meet us, as we were curious to meet them.

Check out this fresh crisp salad, as delicious as it looks.
My new favorite dish so far in the world, Peri Peri, a popular item on Jabula’s menu; chicken livers, fresh garlic, a wine and cream reduction. To die for!

After Leon made introductions, having completed our meal, we joined them at their table and the world travel stories begun. We’ve found that others are curious as to how and why we chose to travel the world for years to come, health providing. By the way, the cost for our game drive, drinks, food and tip for two was a total of ZAR $950, US $93.12.

My sautéed cabbage and carrots, bacon and an egg over a bun-less burger.  Delicious! Three plates of food later, I was stuffed.

Lynne and Mic had traveled for an extended period of nine months, eventually making their way to Marloth Park when they now have owned a home for over 12 years, visiting a few times each year over extended periods.

It’s hard to believe that Christmas is here as these lights twinkle behind Tom. As you can see, he too, is having a great time in Marloth Park.

Jabula Lodge owners Leon, his wife Dawn, our hosts Louise and Danie, and Lynne and Mic will be our safari and bush dinner mates on Sunday night. We’re looking forward to an exciting and interesting adventure. Of course, we’ll report back with photos on Monday.

 Tom’s dinner, steak and potatoes, his usual dining out choice.  He doesn’t eat this way when we dine in.  In a effort to be supportive of me, he eats what I cook for all of our meals, splurging when dining out. As long as he’s healthy and not gaining weight, I stay mum.

Tomorrow, Saturday, we’ll be back with a most unusual sighting while on a walk in the neighborhood, and additional delightful visitors in our yard on both Saturday and Sunday.

Nature at its finest at sunset.

From there, it all went to hell in a handbasket!

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Seated over the wing, some of our views were obstructed.  But the Heavens offered up this cloudy view.

We finally made it to Marloth Park. At the moment we’re situated on a comfy sofa, inside the house. The overhead fan is sufficient to keep us comfortable, although we’ll turn on the AC in the bedroom before going to bed tonight, the sooner, the better, that is, the going to bed part, I mean. To say we’re pooped is an understatement.

From the enthusiasm we expressed in yesterday’s post, everything went downhill from there.When Tom and I had lunch in the airport café in Nairobi we were giddy with excitement at how smoothly everything had gone thus far.

How foolish we were! I remember thinking to myself, “Slow down, girl! This could change on a dime!” (Excuse the cliques spinning through my head).

Our flight to Johannesburg was scheduled to depart at a 4:00 pm. A few hours earlier we were told the flight was late due to “equipment issues.” Oh, that’s comforting.

As you read yesterday, the takeoff time continued to change, hour after hour. Until finally, we were told we’d be taking off at 8:35 pm, a four and a half hour wait beyond the already over four hours layover from our arrival in Nairobi from Mombasa for a total of eight and a half hours of waiting time.

The chairs in the waiting areas were uncomfortable rigid plastic. Our “old age flat butts” caused us to squirm constantly as the bony parts made contact with the unforgiving plastic. Getting up and walking around every 15 minutes seemed to be the available relief.

Thank goodness, we’d parked ourselves next to the complimentary digital charging station, allowing us to keep our computers and phones charged. There was no possible place to play Gin.

A gate/waiting area was set up with complimentary beverages and cakes, as we waited with other frustrated passengers, many of whom had missed their connecting flights. We were grateful that we’d booked a hotel room for the night, a short drive from the airport with a short upcoming flight scheduled at 11:10 am today.

At 9:00 pm, we were buckled into our seats on the plane with profuse apologies from the captain over the lengthy delays offering no further explanation for the delays. Quickly, the engines were started as the plane began to maneuver onto the tarmac in order to head to the runway.

All of a sudden, all the lights went down, the engine died and all electrical ceased to work. Oh. This made my heart pound as I grabbed Tom’s hand, saying, “Gee, good thing this didn’t happen five minutes after takeoff!”

Taking photos from an airplane creates a hazy view through the thick, often dirty, and damaged windows.

At that point, we assumed (foolish us) that we’d be getting off this malfunctioning plane while having to wait many more hours for a replacement.  Actually, I was hoping this would be the case, “My head was screaming, get us out of here!” My mouth stayed shut, waiting to see what transpired, albeit with nerves affray.

The pilot announced that there was an electrical problem (duh) and that he was going to have the ground crew pull the plane back onto the tarmac to work on it.  “No,” I thought, “just get us off this plane.” As a recovering “fear of flying” traveler, all my old fears kicked in. But, with Tom’s continued assurances, I managed to hold it together. 

After the ground crew worked on the plane for 20 minutes, with no explanation, the flight attendants began the manual emergency instructions since the drop-down video screens wouldn’t drop down in order to display the usually recorded safety video. That was comforting, huh?

We waited and then, waited some more. Finally, the engine fired up, the lights came back on and the plane was prepared for takeoff.  It was evident by the hushed tones in the cabin that most of the passengers were anxious. Once in the air, I sat back, exhausted, unable to focus on reading one of my Kindle books. It was after 10:00 pm.

Dinner was served with nothing I could have except for a small dish of tomato, onions, and cucumber chunks swimming in an oily base and a wrapped slice of processed cheese. Tom shared his chunks and slices with me while I shifted everything else on my tray to him.

The clouds were ominous on our flight from Mombasa to Nairobi Kenya.  Surprisingly, there was little turbulence on that otherwise easy flight.

There was a two or three years old child in the seat directly behind me who either kicked the back of my seat in rapid succession or burst into a round of hysterical crying. Certainly, this wasn’t a pleasant experience for such a youngster nor did it make it possible for either of us to nap.

Four hours later, we reached Johannesburg. However, we continued to wait for no less than 20 minutes after landing before they finally opened the doors to allow us to deplane.  

Tom and I, as usual, were the last passengers to leave. Our carry on baggage is too bulky to freely move through the aisles with passengers shoving and pushing with their own carry on bags in tow. We’ve found it less stressful to simply wait until all of the other passengers have cleared the aisles.

If a passenger had no purchases to declare they were allowed to bypass customs without even an inspection. At immigration, we merely asked for a 90-day visa and it was stamped on both of our passports as requested. His next task was to find an ATM so we could find a taxi and get to our hotel.

As we wheeled the two complimentary large luggage carts loaded with our stuff to the ATM machine, we were approached by two well-outfitted security guards who proceeded to explain the late-night dangers at the airport. They stated that their attendance was required for us to use the ATM and to accompany us to the curb to find a taxi. 

For a moment we were suspicious of them, but, when they stood back on the lookout as we received our cash in South African Rands (hereinafter referred to as “ZAR”), we felt more at ease.

The guards did in fact find us a taxi. Giving each of them a tip we proceeded on our way to the Protea Airport Hotel, a 10-minute ride. We paid the driver the required ZAR $150, US $14.70 plus a tip for ZAR $50, US $4.90, a much deserved small token of appreciation for his help with loading and unloading our bags onto the hotel’s large rolling cart.

This photo, although slightly lopsided, illustrates how far the work has come on the rebuilding of the Nairobi Airport after a recent fire.

Having prepaid the room checking into the hotel was quick. We were more than anxious to get to bed.  By the time we were situated and under the covers in a comfy cool air-conditioned room, it was 3:30 am to us, actually, 2:30 am Johannesburg time due to a one hour time change during the flight. It took us an hour to fall asleep.

From the time we left Diani Beach, Kenya at 8:00 am on Saturday with Alfred to head to Mombasa (1.5 hour taxi ride) until we arrived at the hotel it was 19.5 hours. Total flying time for both flights: 4 hours 50 minutes.

By 8:30 am Sunday morning we were having the buffet in the hotel’s restaurant. Good food. Great coffee. And, hoping that the upcoming third of the three flights would be smooth.

All moved along with ease until we reached the security check-in at Johannesburg after we’d checked our four bags, (without any excess baggage fees). As we loaded the laptop bags, my handbag, the duffel bag, and the pill bag into the scanner, two things transpired. 

One, I got frisked. Two, they made us completely empty my laptop bag that contains all of our required paperwork, second passports, power cords, ancillary digital equipment, portable scanner, and portable printer.  They were looking for something “round” that continued to appear on their screen, even after the contents were removed. 

No less than six times, they removed items from the bag running it through the scanner over and over. They’d remove an item, scan the bag again, put the item back, remove another item, and on and on. We thought we were going to miss our flight.

Too exhausted to argue with them that there wasn’t a dangerous or prohibited item hidden in the bag, I finally pointed to a round insignia on the outside of the bag with the brand name engraved. Apparently, the insignia was the problem, they explained, trying to convince us they were “just doing their job,” leaving us to repack the computer bag to be on our way. 

The South African Air Links fight was leaving for Nelspruit/Mpumalanga/Kruger Park Airport in 20 minutes. We had to hustle to get to the gate on time to take a bus to the tarmac, climb a skinny steep stairway to the plane and take our seats for the final 40-minute flight.

Ah, the flight was a flawless smooth takeoff with a relatively gentle landing and overall incident-free.  If our bags had arrived with us, our driver was awaiting us and we could be on our way for the 161 km, 100-mile drive to Marloth Park, we’d be grateful. 

Yes, we certainly are grateful to finally have arrived. As we write this now at 8:00 pm Sunday we’re still stuffed from breakfast deciding to skip dinner tonight. Instead, we’re lounging, writing for our readers, anticipating a much needed cool night’s sleep and tomorrow morning’s coffee on the veranda

And yes, we’ve already had visitors! And yes, the AC works and the house are much more than our expectations. Stop back tomorrow for photos and the happy stories since our arrival at one of Mother Nature’s magical wonderlands, Marloth Park, South Africa, our new home.

For now…

No excess baggage fee so far!!…In Nairobi now…Leaving for South Africa in 45 minutes…

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At the moment, we’re at the gate at the Nairobi airport waiting to board the next leg of our journey to South Africa. It appears that the Nairobi Airport is well on its way to completion of the repairs after the devastating fire many months ago. Little evidence of the destruction was visible to us from our vantage point.

The drive and subsequent ferry ride to Mombasa for the flight to Nairobi were pleasantly uneventful. Alfred was on time, the flight left on time and we flew on what appeared to be a newer mid-sized jet.

Without a doubt, Kenya Airways has its act together. Plus, we paid no excess baggage fees, boarding in Mombasa, nor were we charged any excess fees when we checked in with South African Airways to receive our boarding passes to both Johannesburg and tomorrow’s flight to Nelspruit/Mpumalanga/Kruger airport.

Need I say that we’re thrilled? Unloading stuff paid off! The only trying element up to this point was during the time we had to haul everything from Kenya Airways terminal to South African Airways, located in another terminal at quite a distance. 

With each of us pushing a “complimentary” baggage cart the long-distance, it was challenging over the rough roads with no sidewalk and traffic coming right at us. Thank goodness it wasn’t as hot in Nairobi as it had been in Diani Beach. 

Tom helped me over the curbs we had to cross during the long 20-minute hike. A few times a few of the smaller bags fell off my cart, but guess who came to the rescue each time? Of course. 

The almost four-hour layover in Nairobi is breezing by after we’d dropped off the bags at the South African Airways check-in desk, especially when once again, no excess baggage fees were charged. 

Finding an attentive skycap we only had a short wait since the South African Airways counter had yet to open. That was certainly worth the KES $1000 tip we handed the skycap after he arranged a quick check-in.

Once we were again rid of the four heaviest bags, left only with the carry on bags and the cart, we found a cozy café at the airport for a decent bite to eat with excellent service.

We were reminded that the Kenyan people provide efficient procedures coupled with superior service, a consistent fact throughout our three-month experience.

At 4:00 pm, we’ll be on board the 4four hour flight to Johannesburg where we’ll spend the night until our next flight at 11:00 am tomorrow (Sunday) morning, allowing us ample time for a good night’s sleep. With less than three hours of sleep last night, I’m looking forward to catching up.

God willing, our next two flights in the upcoming 20 hours will be as stress-free and seamless as the first and we’ll cheerfully arrive in Marloth Park tomorrow afternoon after a one hour ride from the airport.

Hopefully, we’ll be back late tomorrow afternoon with photos of our new home and, peace of mind that all has gone as well as we’d hoped with our new found freedom with less baggage.

Oops! Notice just came over the loudspeaker. Our flight to Johannesburg is delayed by two hours. Oh well. As long as we arrive safely, we don’t have a complaint in the world!

Oops! Another notice came over the loudspeaker. The flight is delayed for another hour. It was scheduled to depart at 4:00 pm with it now not departing until 7:00 pm. Oh, I need a nap!

Another delay! Now we won’t depart until 8:20 pm, four hours and 20 minutes late. Yikes!

Goodbye Kenya…We’ll remember you always…A few favorite photos…

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Tom took this photo in the Masai Mara using the little Samsung camera. Wow!

It’s almost 10:00 am Friday. In a few minutes Tom will go with Alfred, the best taxi driver in Diani Beach,  Kenya (click here for Alfred’s email), to the ATM and to drop off the remaining empty water bottles for the refunds at Nakumatt.

We were so close.

The refund on the bottles is KES $1000, US $11.50 (the value of the US dollar declined $.28 since we arrived in Kenya three months ago). With the three jugs, we’ll receive KES $3000, US $34.50 back.

After an exhausting day in the bush, this older elephant was tired of holding up his trunk. So, he tossed it over a tusk to lighten his load.  Sounds like us, attempting to lighten our load.

The packing is almost completed except for the shorts and tee shirts we’re wearing today and the BugsAway clothing we’ll wear tonight for dinner at Nomad’s, our choice for our final night in Kenya. A driver from Nomad will pick us up at 7:00 pm for a leisurely dinner at their oceanfront restaurant. 

“OK, I’ll pose for you!”

Once we return, we’ll pack the clothing we wore to dinner, check our email, and go to bed, hopefully getting a good night’s sleep.

“It’s a birdie day!”

Today, we’ll say goodbye to Hesborn, our houseman for the past three months, Jeremiah, our security guard, and of course, our gracious hosts, Hans and Jeri. Then, of course, our borrowed pups, Jessie and Gucci, who will each get a hug as they offer up a round of “snappy kisses.”   

This cub was at one of the ends of a culvert under the road.  When she got tired of our photo taking, she got up, walked across the road, and re-entered at the other side. What a site!

It hasn’t been easy for us here. Nor was it easy in the heat of summer with the awful biting flies and bees in the mountains of Tuscany, Italy either. But, Tuscany certainly served as preparation for our more trying time in Kenya. How we’ve changed.

Lions in the Masai Mara seldom climb trees.  Anderson spotted this cub and raced across the bush to get as close as possible.  The mother lion and more cubs we lying under this tree.

Had we known how trying it would be, would we have done it differently?  Perhaps. But, we still would have done it. Nothing, and I mean, nothing, will ever match the experience in the Masai Mara on safari or even our three-day experience with the monkey and the snakes at the seaside resort. That is what brought us to Kenya in the first place, the hope of seeing the Great Migration. 

This lion was sleepy after his big zebra meal (behind him).

Not having seen the Great Migration was incidental to the life-changing adventure we had in its place. At this point, we have no need to see it in the future. When Anderson, our guide, took us to the border of Kenya/Tanzania to see the end of the Great Migration, the flies were so bad that we had to cover our eyes, mouths, and faces. You know how I feel about flies.

Only once for a period of 30 minutes, did we have an opportunity to watch the antics of the Colobus monkeys. Many people living in Kenya have never seen a Colobus.  Getting this shot made me want to swing from trees.

And now, we move on to more heat in South Africa (where it will be summer soon), with more bugs (wildlife results in more bugs), and a new sense of caution for the wild animals in our midst at every turn. Tougher now, we aren’t afraid. Instead, we’re mindful and cautious, and, more than anything we’re excited and curious.

Within minutes of entering our ocean cottage at The Sands Resort for our anniversary, holiday, this monkey was peering into the window wondering what we were going to do with our complimentary fruit plate. Many guests feed them putting them on alert each time a new guest arrives. We didn’t feed them.  This photo was taken through the glass window.

Earlier in a post, I’ mentioned that we’d share our total costs for our three months in Kenya. This total includes every possible expense: rent, food, transportation, entertainment, safari, resort stay, taxes and tips, fees and airfare, and overweight baggage fees to travel here. Every expense, however small, was included, such as a KES $260.85, US $3.00 trip to the produce stand, a beverage purchased at the airport, a tip handed to a bellman.

This photo was also taken through the glass (notice reflections) as this young mom came by hoping for some tidbits for her babies.

Our grand total for living expenses for the three months in Kenya was KES $1,388,746, US $15,971.78 which averages to KES $462,916, US $5323.93 per month. We are very pleased with these numbers, especially when it includes the high cost of the safari, our anniversary holiday, and the frequency of dining out.

This winking chameleon made us laugh, especially his funny little mouth.  He appears to be made of quality beadwork. We met him at the Snake Show at the resort. Tom is holding him.

Goodbye, Kenya. Thank you for your friendly people, for your exquisite vegetation, your breathtaking scenery, and for the wildlife that freely exists in your natural environment which your citizens so adamantly protect with grace and reverence. Thank you for welcoming us with open arms, as you proudly release us to send us on our way.