My boys…What can I say?…It’s a glorious day in the bush!”…A few more Kruger photos…

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We waited patiently as the giraffe made her way across the dirt road in Kruger.

“Sighting of the Day in the Bush”

There he is…Scar Face has returned after a three-week hiatus. 

With Louise, Danie, and her parents coming for dinner tomorrow night, I decided to work on a bit of food prep this morning. I had a late start after actually sleeping until 7:30 am, a rarity for me. Tom was up at 5:30, as usual, unable to sleep any longer.

Greeting the balmy day couldn’t have been more perfect. The sun was shining, the temperature was ideal, and a slight breeze wafted through the air every so often. Now, at noon, the perfect weather continues.

It’s looking better, but it may take a while longer for his injury to completely heal.

Of course, our day has been brightened further by the arrival of one group of visitors after another; Miss Kudu and baby; Mrs. Warthog, auntie, and two babies; a couple of dozen helmeted guinea fowl; and then…pure delight.

Mornings are hectic. At around 9:30 am, Tom called out to me while I was busy in the kitchen to immediately come outside. I was anxious to get out anyway to begin working on today’s overdue post, which I always do sitting at the big table on the veranda enjoying the sights and sounds of nature along with whatever visitors come to grace us with their presence.

Often, when animals in the wild are injured, they seem to know how to take care of themselves without intervention from humans.
I wiped my wet hands on the legs of my jeans as I rushed outdoors, unsure of what to expect, anticipating that Tom was summoning me to see birds at the old bushbaby stand which we’re now using as a bird feeder since we purchased a new bushbaby stand a few days ago from Daisy’s Den.

My heart stopped in my chest when there stood Scar Face, as Tom said, “Your boy is back!” I squealed like a pig myself when I saw him. He and I made our usual penetrating eye contact. Oh, how I’d love to know what he’s thinking.

It’s always a joy to see zebras, whether here in Marloth Park or in Kruger.

Most likely, he was hungry and was looking for apples, pellets, and perhaps a few carrots. (Warthogs are finicky about carrots. Some like them, others do not). Scar-Face will eat a few. 

Luckily, yesterday after a shopping trip to Komatipoort and Lebombo (where there’s a market with the best carrots anywhere), we purchased plenty of carrots and apples, some of which I’d already cut up. (Thanks, Louise, for your help in the carrot matter). I grabbed the bowl from the refrigerator, anxious to get back out to him.

A face only a mother could love!

Tom and I stood on the veranda tossing handfuls of apples and pellets to Scar-Face while he voraciously devoured them as quickly as we could toss them out. With the holiday season over for now and many homeowners off to other lands, it could have been days since he’d had much food other than his usual foraging.

With winter approaching and little rain, the pickings are slim for many animals, and they surely appreciate a hand out of pellets, fruits, and veggies from whoever happens to be around.

Each time we enter Kruger, we see at least one elephant, frequently many more. We never tire of seeing the magnificent beasts or other wildlife, for that matter.

Why we hadn’t seen him since a week before we left for Zambia (we were gone one week) and now back a whole week as of today, we’ll never know. Maybe he came by while we were gone and gave up when we weren’t here.

It’s impossible to read the minds of wildlife. Although they’re “creatures of habit” like us humans, their patterns may be inconsistent as they wander through the 3000 hectares (11.58 square miles) that consist of this unique and magical conservancy where animals roam free.

A cape buffalo was resting in the vegetation in Kruger.

He looked better, although it will take many more months for his injury to heal fully. He seemed otherwise healthy, and when he was done eating and heard a noise in the bush, he took off at a fantastic pace. (Warthogs can run at a rate of 55 km, 35 miles per hour when chased by a lion).

Hopefully, now that he sees we’re here, he’ll return as regularly as he had the first months we were here. Gosh, it’s so easy to become attached to these animals even when we don’t touch them or interact with them as we would a pet in our home. 

This is a female giraffe based on the hair on her ossicones which males do not have.

These are not pets. They’re wild animals, and although some have become used to humans in “their” territory, they still behave like wild animals. It would be unwise and unfair to them to attempt to “domestic them.” Doing so could ultimately result in their eventual demise.

Some disagree with feeding the wildlife. We understand this concept. However, many residents of Marloth Park have been providing pellets and vegetables, and fruit to them for decades, and they’ve continued to thrive.  We’ve followed suit, especially when we see the vegetation drying up as winter rolls in.

Tom’s hair had become unruly, prompting him to get another haircut sooner than usual.

On Wednesday, Tom had his hair cut and is thrilled with the result. Yesterday, as mentioned above, we headed to Lebombo and Komatipoort to shop for groceries, buy pellets at Obaro, stop at the pharmacy for a few items, and see Dr. Theo for our appointment for more vaccinations. More on this in tomorrow’s post.

He had it cut right here in Marloth Park at a busy salon near Daisy’s Den where we buy birdseed and other items.

Today, we’ll stay put while we continue to prep for tomorrow evening’s dinner party. It will be fun to meet Louise’s parents and share great conversation and good food and wine!

May your day be filled with happy surprises!

Photo from one year ago today, May 25, 2017:

The sun filtered through the tall trees at Butchart Gardens in Victoria, British Columbia. For more photos, please click here.

Friendly South African braai in the wild among new friends and the beasts…Frikkie’s Dam, Lionspruit…

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Such a funny thing (to us anyway), an oxpecker on this giraffe’s nose.
We were so close to this giraffe it was easy to get this photo.
After exiting Lionspruit, we spotted this giraffe on the opposite side of the fence. We noticed an oxpecker on his nose.
“Sighting of the Day in the Bush”
A Vervet monkey in a tree in the yard.

How do we begin to tell the story of friendship and hospitality that surrounds us in South Africa…in Marloth Park? Sure, we’ve met wonderful people all over the world, on cruises, during tours, and in neighborhoods, many of whom we’ve stayed in close touch over these past years, many of who’ve become lifelong friends.

The somewhat enclosed braai area offered a barrier between the lions and us in Lionspruit.

We never take for granted the opportunity to meet new people and to build new relationships. Undoubtedly, such friendships take time to cultivate, and when we have time in a location, we relish in these relationships as they mature.

It was a perfect day to be outdoors, not too hot, not too cool.

Some relationships are with couples we meet along the way, and others are individuals with whom we find a particular affinity when meeting one-on-one or in a group. On Sunday, such was the case when Louise and Danie included us in their “inner circle” (my words, not theirs) of people they’ve come to know and love after many years in Marloth Park.

The covered veranda at Frikkie’s Dam provides shelter in the event of rain.

The commonality they share, as Danie described only this morning when he and Louise stopped by, is their “lack of baggage,” the kind that may make some people judgmental, critical, or of a less than warm demeanor and personality. 

From left to right, Danie, Alison, and Dean posed for a photo. Everyone works tirelessly and unselfishly for the preservation of Marloth Park.

Over time, this group was “hand-picked” for the special qualities they each possess in their unique way. What intrigued us the most was how different each individual is, bringing a wealth of great experiences, education, and backgrounds.

From left to right, Nicki, Louise, and Cora.

Many countries are represented in this group of friends…many cultures, many varying walks of life. But, the one passion they each share is their passion and love for Marloth Park and their determination and dedication in contributing, however big or small, in maintaining the integrity that so well defines this magical place.

Andre, Cor, and Tom.

It’s not that other locals are excluded from this group. Luckily, they all came together over time, as friends and ultimately as “family” when many of their family members are so far away.

Andre was one of the first residents of Marloth Park in the 1970s. He and Cor, to his right, are great friends. Michel is to the left.

To be included means a lot to us, as it has been with all of our friends here in Marloth Park. We don’t have South African roots, heritage, and culture in our repertoire of world experiences as many of them do.  Even those from far away places have been here long enough to have wound their lives, their existence around a lifestyle and persona that is unique unto itself, unlike any we’ve encountered in these past years of world travel.

Nicki, Louise, and Cora.

They have so much history together entwined in endless stories that made us both realize, should we have the opportunity to be with them again, that in time we’ll collectively build our own stories, our memories, and our level of inclusiveness that is found in a friendly mélange of locals sharing their lives, their dreams, and their hopes for the future.

Cora, Matthew, Michel, and Andre.

We apologize if we’ve missed including photos and names of everyone present on Sunday’s braai at Frikkie’s Dam. Hopefully, next time, we won’t be so preoccupied with the wonder of it all, failing to include everyone in our photos.

We brought a gluten-free quiche to share.  Louise and Danie cooked meats on the open fire, and others brought their items.

Again, and we mean again, thanks to Louise and Danie and all of our friends in the bush for making this life genuinely feel like “home.” Wherever we may travel in the world, our memories will travel with us…in our hearts, in our minds, and our eternal love of Marloth Park, South Africa.

When we return from Zambia, we plan to meet with Andre to write a story of his over 40 years in Marloth Park. He’s holding a piece of our quiche in his hand.

Happy day to all!

Photo from one year ago today, May 8, 2017:

Aboard the ship, I made a new friend, Helen. She and I decided to visit Lahaina Maui for some “girl time,” leaving Tom behind on the ship while we browsed the shops. It was a great day. For more details, please click here.

Part 2…It’s a flexible life…

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I squealed with delight when we got this photo.  Love that face!

“Sighting of the Day in the Bush”

It was dark when we took this photo of a bushbuck mom, dad, and baby. The calf couldn’t have been born more than a week or two ago.

The flexibility continued last night after we’d decided to have dinner at Jabula, our favorite restaurant in Marloth Park, or even in Komatipoort, which is a 25-minute drive.

We can count on the food and the service and, since we’d yet to go out to celebrate our 23rd anniversary on March 7th, Friday night at Jabula sounded incredibly appealing.

Female waterbuck are scrounging for food in the dry riverbed.

We love the casual bar where one can be a true bar-fly or not, where conversation flows easily between customers and staff. The bush location with outdoor dining is a treasured experience for most who stop by, including us.

Our plans to head to Ingwenya had passed with two power outages, a massive downpour, and cloudy nights which would make river and sunset viewing more appropriate for another evening.

Two waterbucks with large antlers on the Crocodile River bed, parts of which have no water, creating a hardship for wildlife.

We’ve been preparing many delicious meals at “home,” but getting out once or twice a week is appealing, not only for a change of pace but also for the social interaction and the festive bar environment.

Last night, we weren’t disappointed. We got exactly what we anticipated; the excellent food and service and, of course, the playful atmosphere and friendly chatter one can expect on a Friday night at the popular lodge, restaurant, and pub.

A waterbuck were resting on a sandbar in the river.

Knowing we had to be out the door early this morning for our “mysterious-yet-to-be-revealed all-day event, which we’ll share in 48 hours with scream-worthy photos, prompted us to dine by 7:00 pm and be on our way “home” by 9:00 pm, hoping to get a good night’s sleep.

Yesterday, the morning was delightfully cool and dry, and we couldn’t have been more thrilled after several days of scorching heat. It’s still summer here in this part of the world, and the heat and humidity can be relentless. 

We stopped at a covered brick structure overlooking the Crocodile River with bleacher-type tiered seating, perfect for viewing wildlife.

We’re looking forward to the cooler fall and winter, soon on the horizon and hopefully with cooler temperatures. But, with that reality comes the dreadful fact that the wildlife suffers dearly during the winter months when leaves have fallen off the trees, and most vegetation has turned from bright green to stark brown, leaving little to nothing for the constantly grazing wildlife.

It is during this time, more than ever, that we’ll see even more wildlife, in part from the wide-open bushland without the greenery and also them visiting in hopes of food. Many residents of Marloth Park make every effort to help provide some sustenance for the wildlife, but many won’t make it through the barren season. 

Due to recent rains, some areas of the river contained shallow water.

This is a heartbreaking reality and the first experience for us.  We were here from December 1st to February 28th, four years ago, still during the rainy season. The river ran deep from the summer rains, and trees and shrubs were abundant in lush greenery. 

As I’m writing here now, Louise has sent me a text (on FB) that there’s been another sighting of “lion on the loose” in Marloth Park. No walking in the early morning or after dark. We certainly will stay diligent. We’ve heard the lion’s roar a few times but haven’t seen it. 

While driving down a road we’d never seen, we spotted this sole giraffe nibbling on treetops.

We don’t expect “safari luck” to prevail on our almost daily car trips enabling us to see and take a photo of the lion. But one never knows. Of course, safety supersedes one’s photo-taking obsession above all else.

Anyway, back to the culling of wildlife in Marloth Park…I found this article that explains it further. There’s no doubt it’s heartbreaking to know that the beloved nature of Marloth Park must be culled. My heart wrenches, thinking of what may transpire again while we’re here. We’ll keep our readers informed as time passes.

On the return drive to our holiday home, we spotted this woman carrying perfectly
balanced laundry on her head. Little did we know, until we got closer, it was Martha (pronounced Mar-ta), our housekeeper, returning with laundry from another holiday home where she works in the neighborhood for Louise and Danie. We offered her a ride back, and she was thrilled to be able to return to the property in a vehicle on a scorching day.

Tomorrow, we’ll be back with one of two wild stories we’re sharing over two days. Please check back for some serious storytelling with photos you may not believe.

Have a safe and peaceful day!

Photo from one year ago today, March 10, 2017:

There was nothing, in this case, I wouldn’t have loved in my old life. Now, they’re only for viewing and drooling.  For more photos, please click here.

Part 1… It’s a flexible life…

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Whoa!  Dad has quite an adorable head, doesn’t he? Can you tell from this photo what type of bird this is?

“Sighting of the Day in the Bush”

This is one of our frequent visitors, Ms. Bushbuck, who stops by several times a day, never failing to let us know a few pellets would be in order.

With our interview scheduled for yesterday at 9:00 am, we awoke and were situated on the veranda a little earlier than usual to have the post uploaded before our guest arrived with Danie.

Mom and baby were staying close to one another.

Both Louise and Danie had warned us that a 9:00 am scheduled meeting doesn’t necessarily mean a 9:00 am meeting in these parts of the world. In our usual easy-going manner, we weren’t concerned a bit when they hadn’t arrived by 10:30.

Mom and Baby, both with their mouths agape, a reaction that may indicate protectiveness.  We were pretty far away, but they have good vision with the most enormous eyes of any land animal on the planet.

Louise sent a text alerting us that it may be closer to 2:00 pm, which was fine. We had no specific plans for the day other than leaving for sunset views, river views, and dinner at Ngwenya around 5:00 pm.

Baby hiding behind mom’s fluffiness.

With the post uploaded earlier and after the notification from Louise, by 10:30 am, we decided to take off in the little car to drive around Marloth Park and see what we could find. The temperature was in the 100F’s (38C) with excessive humidity. 

Ostriches are the largest and tallest bird on the planet.  Due to their size:  females weigh up to 232 pounds (110 kg) and males up to 287 pounds (130 kg). They don’t fly due to their massive size.  Females’ height may be up to 6’2″ (1.9 meters) while males can reach 6’9″ (2.7 meters).

As mentioned in a prior post, the little car’s AC system is somewhat primitive based on the car’s small engine and operating system. But, that fact wasn’t about to keep us from heading out to see what we could find.

Mom and the baby tend to hide behind her feathers.

Besides, while we’re “searching,” we often have the car’s windows wide open to avoid taking photos through the glass.  We’re usually so preoccupied with the scenes before our eyes. We pay little attention to the heat and the insects that have managed to fly into the car. This car, not unlike others we’ve rented in many countries, doesn’t have power windows. (Nor does it have power locks)

Dad stood off to the side, guarding against any possible predators.

With few expectations, as usual, we drove around for hours, ending up enthralled by the sights we discovered along the way.  Who knew that on this hot and humid day, we’d stumble across the variety of wildlife we were fortunate enough to encounter?

The baby appears bowlegged at this point but won’t after the feathers fill in as they mature.

We keep a map of Marloth Park in the glove box that we frequently refer to. Our goal is to scour as many roads as possible in the park to become as familiar with our surroundings as possible. 

Dad kept a keen eye on the road. We were in a secluded area near the Crocodile River with few cars passing while parked in front of this house.

This doesn’t provide any assurances we’ll spot wildlife, but it’s interesting to get to know this unique area inside and out.  We’re continually surprised by what we find.

By 1:00 pm, we were back at the house, and by 2:15, Danie and our guest Jonas (pronounced Yan-us) arrived, with whom we spent a few valuable hours, hearing an unbelievable story we’ll be sharing (with photos) in two days. Please check back for that astounding story!

They moved a bit, enabling us to get a few photos of the three of them together.

Today and tomorrow, we’ll be sharing all new photos of what we discovered on Thursday’s local road trip.  Today, we’ll be preparing tomorrow’s post in advance since we’ll be gone all day tomorrow, experiencing an event we never expected we’d ever considered, way outside of our “comfort zone.” But, we’re on an “adventure” and “adventuresome” we will be! We’ll post that incredible (hopefully) story with photos in three days on Monday.

Shortly after our guests left, the power went out for the second evening in a row. We decided to change our plans once again and stay in when most likely, the power would be out at local restaurants. In a short time, the power outage was resolved, and we proceeded to prepare a great dinner, again dining outdoors on the veranda.

The final photo of the family of three as we drove away.

Many visitors came to call during the early evening and after the short downpour. We even had an opportunity to see the tiniest bushbuck baby (with mom and dad) we’ve seen to date. Photos will follow soon.

May you have an incredible day!

Photo from one year ago today, March 9, 2017:

Freighter beyond a peninsula while docked in Lautoka, Fiji, one year ago today. For more details, please click here.

Coincidences…Hilarious video interaction…Harrowing visit to Lionspruit game reserve…Busy weekend ahead…

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For a good chuckle, watch this video.  At about halfway through
you see a funny interaction with this warthog and mongoose.
 
“Sighting of the Day in the Bush”
These tusks on this female warthog that visited with babies are the largest we’ve seen since our arrival.
Upon entering Lionspruit, we had to sign a waiver stating, “Entering at our own risk.
Our lives are filled with coincidences, dates, people, and things. As we look back at the year-ago posts, we’re always amazed how often we encounter patterns of dates and events. I suppose with the diversity of our experiences. This can happen.

Today is February 23rd which brought to mind the coincidence of the 23rd of the prior several months. For example, on November 23rd, we embarked on the 30-night South America cruise. On December 23rd, Tom’s birthday, the cruise disembarked in Buenos Aires, where we stayed for 31 nights. Then, on January 23rd, we flew from Buenos Aires to Ushuaia, Argentina, and embarked on the cruise to Antarctica. These are pretty coincidental dates filled with considerable adventure.

Today, we’ve posted a video you must watch if you’d like a chuckle. About halfway through (watch carefully), you’ll see interaction with a warthog and mongoose that we watched over and over again, laughing each time.

This sign, written in both Afrikaans and English, warns visitors about entering.  We had no intentions of getting out of the vehicle at any time.

While filming the video, we had no idea this happened. It wasn’t until we watched the video after uploading it to YouTube we realized this funny split-second-long event.

Yesterday morning Louise and Danie stopped by to leave a “cool box” (cooler) with us and a pass to get into Lionspruit Nature Reserve, contained within sprawling Marloth Park.

With very few visitors, it’s a long day for the guard that manages the gate.

With social events tonight and tomorrow night where we bring our beverages, it was thoughtful of them to loan us a cool box for our lengthy stay at “Orange…More Than Just a Color,” the name of this lovely home in the bush. 

Although the house is well-equipped, Louise has rousted up some additional items I needed; sharp knives, measuring spoons and cups (most tourists don’t cook much), mixing bowls, and other odds and ends.  Now, we have everything we need.

There were numerous impalas beyond the entrance gate, but we didn’t see much as we traveled on the dirt road.

As for the pass to Lionspruit…last time we were here, four years ago, we’d considered visiting this small (compared to Kruger National Park) wildlife reserve, but for some reason, we never got around to it. When Louise and Danie offered the pass, we decided to go.

Image result for map lionspruit
Map of Marloth Park and Lionspruit Nature Reserve.

Here’s a map of Lionspruit, located within Marloth Park. Lionspruit is 1500 hectares, equivalent to 3707 acres, or 5.8 square miles. In comparison, Marloth Park is 3000 hectares, equal to 7413 acres, or 11.6 miles.

We’d heard the roads inside Lionspruit were uneven with lots of rocks and potholes but thought we should finally give it a try. If we didn’t find it navigable, we’d turn around and leave.  Not so simple. 

Most of the roads are one-way. It proved to be like a maze, and although we were never lost, we found ourselves in a quagmire of never-ending mud holes, water holes (not knowing how deep they were), and rocky pits and ruts from rain and erosion.

As it turned out, this reserve is not the place for a regular, especially tiny car with small tires, like our rental. Indeed, a four-wheel drive would have been more appropriate.
The dirt road didn’t look bad when we started, but everything changed 10 minutes into it.  It had rained quite a bit lately. We probably should have waited for a drier spell to enter Lionspruit.

Once we got going, there was no turning back. At several points, we certainly anticipated getting stuck in the mud or ruts and having to call for help. Luckily, I’d brought my phone with the number for Field Security in the park that will come to the rescue in an emergency. We hoped “safari luck” would prevail and we’d see a lion but instead, “safari luck” saved us from getting stuck.

There are only two known lions in Lionspruit, but we could have done a number on ourselves, anticipating being stuck and spending the night in there or in attempting to walk back to the single entrance.  Oh, good grief. This could have been quite the story for an episode of 48 Hours, Dateline, or other such sensationalized TV programs in the US.

Luckily, we both stayed calm, even when we approached the scary huge water holes in the narrow dirt and rock road. Although we both were running the possibility of getting stuck in our minds, we avoided mentioning our concerns to one another.

“The southern yellow-billed hornbill (Tockus leucomelas) is a hornbill found in southern Africa. This hornbill species is a widespread resident of dry thornveld and broad-leafed woodlands. Yellow-billed hornbills feed mainly on the ground, forage for seeds, small insects, spiders, and scorpions. They can often be seen along roads and watercourses.”

Tom, a highly competent driver, was a little hesitant at times but maneuvered our way through some of the most challenging roads we’ve navigated in our travels. Each time he made it through another frightening patch, we both sighed in relief.

It was so tense. I failed to take photos of the water and mud holes, which I wished I had done now that it’s over. Just picture a water hole of unknown depth covering an entire dirt roadway…we made our way through many of these.

More impalas tucked away in the bush.

With a manual transmission, Tom used first gear during most of the entire long drive. It took us two hours to return to the entrance gate, after which we returned the plastic-encased map to the guard joyfully waving goodbye.

We never spotted either of the two lions in Lionspruit, nor did we see much wildlife, other than a few, as shown here today. We see more wildlife sitting at the big table on the veranda than we did there. 

Impalas are shy and tend to back off from humans.  Plus, they are huge targets for lions, leopards, and hyenas, so they’re always on the lookout.

Next week, we’re heading to Kruger National Park (25 minutes to the Crocodile Bridge entrance) on a self-drive on their easy-to-manage paved roads.  In comparison, Kruger is over 2,000,000 hectares, 4,942,108 acres, and 7,722 square miles. Having visited Kruger many times during our last stay, we’re looking forward to returning.

There are many hornbills in this area.

Tonight at 6:00 pm, we’re off to a musical party at friends Kathy and Don’s home here in Marloth, where Don and Ken (of Linda and Ken) have a performance planned, followed by food, drinks, and most certainly more lively chatter. 

What a fabulous social week for us with more excitement upcoming tomorrow night, which we’ll write about tomorrow. 

Have a blissful weekend, whatever you may do!

Photo from one year ago today, February 23, 2017:

Caravans parking in Franklin, Tasmania for summer activities in the Huon Valley. For more photos, please click here.

Antarctic – Sunday, January 28, 2018…Elsehul, South Georgia…Morning cruise on Zodiac boats…

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This elephant seal on Steeple Jason Island didn’t care for our photo-taking antics.

It was an early start to the day when we had to be dressed in our heavy gear to embark upon a 75 minute Zodiac boat cruise of Elsehul Island located on South Georgia Island. Initially, the plan had been to leave a little later in the morning, but the captain decided it was best to go out earlier rather than later with bad weather on the horizon.

About one in 1000 seal births results in this light color resulting from low melanin production. Although not albino, the offspring of these seals may also be the light color or not.

Awakening at 5:15 am, we showered and dressed in our multiple layers to keep us warm in the potentially high winds and colder temperatures than we’d experienced in over five years. We had no trouble getting up and ready, heading to deck three lounge to wait for our designated color “blue” t0 be called to board the boats.

A male fur seal keeping watch.  We were warned not to get too close to the males. They can readily become agitated and can attack.  Their bite can be dangerous.

One of our readers wrote asking how hard it is to board the somewhat wobbly Zodiac boats, especially in rough weather. As part of our safety procedures during an expedition cruise, one section consisted of getting on and off the ships and ensuring we don’t tip overboard on the fast bouncy rides if we’re in rough seas. 

This Elephant Seal didn’t look so happy.

Thick ropes are surrounding the perimeter of the Zodiac we can hang onto in rough seas. But, as shown in our photos, sitting on the outside edge of the boats doesn’t feel exceptionally stable. It would be awful to plunge into the ice-cold seas in this part of the world. Getting off and on has now become second nature, even with my injured knee.

Lounging fur seals, adults, and pups.

In addition, we’ve continued to go through a series of decontamination procedures each time we board and disembark the 10-person boats. Keeping Antarctica free of germs and contamination from outside areas is vital to the preservation of wildlife and vegetation in this protected area.

Basking in the warmth of the sun.

Prior to boarding the boats, while wearing our boots (provided by Ponant) we are required to walk through a disinfectant liquid that clears any bacteria or organisms we may have picked aboard the ship. 

A watchful eye for the family…

After our expedition, we not only walk through the liquid again, but we stop at a station where there are large pans of disinfectant and long-handled scrub brushes in order to clean the boots from any residual guano or vegetation. 

King Penguins were standing by the shore at Steeple Jason Island.

In addition to the above, yesterday afternoon, each deck was scheduled at a specific time to bring their parkas, boots, gloves, scarves, and hat to the third deck lounge to vacuum each item to remove any residual items that may have become attached to our outerwear.  

An affectionate family interaction.

We appreciate and respect the diligence with which the cruise line honors these actual eco and conservation laws as a part of the honor of being a visitor to this majestic place.

Four King Penguins were contemplating their next move.

Over these past five days, since we’ve boarded the ship, we’ve become a part of a 10-person group of passengers with whom we hang out, meet for happy hour and dine each evening.  

We observed a total of three of these rare light-colored fur seals.

The instigators of these great group of people have been perpetrated by new friends and US citizens Marg and Steve with homes in Montana and Arizona. Marg’s bubbly and charming personality certainly designate her as the most competent of social directors.

Penguins were lining the shore.

Our group consists of five couples; two from Australia and three from the US. It’s a perfect mix of varying ages (from 30’s to 70’s) and lifestyles, making the conversations and laughter flow with ease.  On most cruises, we tend to single out English speaking people (duh, makes sense, right?) and as always, we’re having a great time with our new friends.

It was a pretty scene in Steeple Jason Island.
I asked guest services to print a copy of the countries from which the 194 passengers hail, and it reads as follows:
Australia               37

Canada                 29

China                    2France                  55
Germany               3Hong Kong            12
Luxembourg          3New Zealand          1
Spain                    2Switzerland            23
United Kingdom     11USA                      16
Total                    194
King Penguins were hanging out on a hill.

Most of the passengers from Canada, Luxembourg, and Switzerland speak French. Adding those citizens to the French group accounts for 110 passengers who speak French. This French ship starts all announcements in French but is accommodating in providing information shortly after that in English.  It’s working out fine for those of us English-speaking passengers.

Tom noticed a “face” formation in these rocks.  Do you see this too?

I have to rush and wrap this up.  In less than 40 minutes, we have to be dressed in the warm weather gear and ready to go for our next excursion in Stromness in South Georgia. Due to bad weather conditions, the actual “port of call” has been changed to a small historical town with plenty of wildlife. We’ll be back with more soon. Stay warm. Stay well.

Closeup of King Penguins.

Photo from one year ago today, January 28, 2017:

Many carved statues were overlooking the Huon River in Tasmania. We stopped to read about each of them. For more photos, please click here.

A stunning experience in the yard….Check out these photos!…

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This was the first sighting we’ve had of a Toucan in the yard. Once the downed tree was removed, it opened up an area where Ulysses spotted the two birds and came to tell us. Notice the piece of fruit in their beak.

“Sightings from the Veranda in Costa Rica”

A butterfly landed on this metal clip in the tile on the veranda. (The clip is used to anchor the hooks on the pull-down shades). Tom took these two photos.
Although not a perfect shot, Tom took this closeup of the beautiful coloration of this butterfly.

This morning’s late start resulted from us both staying busy in the kitchen cleaning and cutting vegetables and some fruit for Tom. He’s gained weight eating fruit and peanuts while here and will return to a low-carb diet a month before we depart for the cruise. 

With a 30-night cruise ahead of us and many tempting foods for Tom, starting a little lighter is always good. For me, it’s no difference one way or another. I eat the same foods at “home” as I do on a cruise. 

The Toucans were very high up in the tree, making it difficult to get a clear shot with our camera.  Soon, we’ll be purchasing a new camera for Antarctica and Africa. Keep this less expensive model so we can both take photos simultaneously. 

With the “feria” (farmers market) closed yesterday due to the storms, we purchased all of our groceries and produced them at the market, enough to last at least a week.

The taxi driver picked us up at the villa and dropped us off at the “barberia’ owned by a Columbian family, a popular spot for haircuts for the roughly 1500 ex-pats in Atenas. He paid CRC 4,000 (USD 6.97), which included a 25% tip!  Photos will follow in tomorrow’s post.  We’re both thrilled with the results.

The workers arrived in the morning and continued to remove the downed tree, as shown on the right in this photo.

We’d brought the golf umbrella with us anticipating more rain. Instead, the storm has moved toward the US, with Costa Rica no longer under “red alert.” But, it’s still the rainy season, and it can be sunny with a clear sky one moment and be raining in buckets 10 minutes later. 

Today at 10:30 am, the sky is blue and clear with hardly a white fluffy surge on the horizon.  Hopefully, we’ll be able to do our 30-minute dose of Vitamin D and also swim in the pool once we’re done with this post. Unfortunately, there have only been one or two afternoons since we arrived on August 1st that it hasn’t rained in the afternoon, generally by 1:00 pm. 

It took most of the day to remove the tree and debris.

After his haircut, we walked to the central park in Atenas when we’d heard that colorful birds may be seen in tall trees at certain times. We walked through the park with camera in hand, only seeing a few blackbirds pecking on the lawn. We assumed the birds may still have been undercover due to the recent inclement weather.

From the park, we walked to the “farmacia” (the pharmacy) to see if they may carry any of the few prescriptions I’ll be running out of before departing Costa Rica.  (Lesson learned…I hadn’t checked before we arrived to discover it’s against the law in Costa Rica to receive any shipped prescription drugs. This hasn’t been an issue in other countries where we’ve lived and purchased necessary prescriptions online).

Several workers came to remove the fallen tree due to Hurricane Nate that hit Costa Rica while it was a tropical depression.

The pharmacist said she’d check and see if she could get the correct dosage (very low) for the medication I’m most concerned about. Unfortunately, it wasn’t looking good. While there, I purchased more Omeprazole (it’s working!) to ensure I have enough on hand for the upcoming cruise. Running out of necessary meds on a cruise isn’t a good idea when cruise ships have a very limited pharmacy.

From the farmacia we headed to Coopeatenas to grocery shop. Tom waited in the cafe while I took my time searching for the items on the app on my phone. Then, in no time at all, he spotted me approaching the register and gently moved me out of the way so he could load the many items on the counter for checkout.

The workers were high in the trees clearing the debris.

A security guard called a taxi for us for the short ride back to the villa for CRC 2,000, USD 3.49, which included a 25% tip. Once back at the villa, the driveway was blocked with the tree removal guy’s truck and equipment, and Ulysses insisted on helping us carry the bags into the house.

Shortly after we put everything away, Ulysses came to the door in an uproar, waving his arms and rapidly speaking in Spanish. I will admit, I’m quickly learning Spanish, much to my surprise. I certainly can’t speak fluently in this short time, but when someone is speaking to us, I can pick up enough keywords to grasp the intent of the content. 

Tom was watching the tree removal while carrying bags for the market.

Tom is learning a few words here and there but often mispronounces them while I practically roll on the floor in laughter. But he’s a good sport and laughs right along with me.

Ulysses was trying to tell us a pair of Toucans in the trees behind the spot where the tree had since been removed. Tom ran out with the camera taking the first few photos while I excitedly took the rest. The thrill of it all was enhanced because one of the birds had a piece of fruit in his beak, as shown in the above photos. 

A water storage tank and shed are behind the fallen tree.

For hours, we were reeling with the excitement of seeing the birds. Today, Tom continues to head to the driveway every hour or so to see if they’d back. We may never see them again during our remaining time in Costa Rica. But, having seen and photographed them once was fulfilling. 

May you have a sunny and fulfilling day!

Photo from one year ago today, October 7, 2016:

This was a first sighting for us, a local taking a “bath” on the beach by tossing the sand all over his body. An unusual practice that may be utilized by many without access to a shower or running water. He later “rinsed off” in the ocean. Click here for more details.

Part 2…An environment of dedication, compassion and love at the Cairns Tropical Zoo…

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We fell in love with the Pelicans for their beauty, grace and movement.

The Freeman family, locals in the Cairns area, have been instrumental in developing an extraordinary wildlife experience since 1980 with a goal of providing the utmost in conservation and species preservation.

A Pelican show of wingspan.

With a wide array of educational and highly entertaining presentations available that enable visitors to participate in many hands-on and up-close and personal interactions with appropriate wildlife, those visiting the Cairns Tropical Zoo will find themselves enriched from a unique zoo experience.

Peacocks were freely roaming the grounds of the zoo.

In addition, the Freeman family established the private North Queensland Wildlife Trust, which includes not only the Cairns Tropical Zoo but also, Hartley’s Crocodile Adventures and Kuranda Koala Gardens. By the development of the trust, funds are raised for the conservation of native species and their habitat.

Even these less than attractive Lizards can be cute in repose.

It is this kind of passion and dedication to wildlife that is exhibited throughout the zoo as Jasmine toured us through many of the areas to see wildlife we’d never seen face to face in any environment throughout our world travels.

Mom or dad makes a comfortable pillow.
A pile of Turtles.

To be able to take numerous photos as shown here without placing our camera into the holes into a tight chain-link fence gave us a feeling of openness and space, certainly enjoyed and appreciated by all of the various wildlife.

Spoonbill, rightfully so named.

Of course, the dangerous animals such as the massive crocodiles that caught our breath, the design of their habitat provided total safety and security while allowing the photo enthusiast full access to those much revered perfect shots as we’re sharing here in both Parts 1 and 2 of the two-day story.

A Wallaby is a small or mid-sized macropod found in Australia and New Zealand. appears to be a miniature Kangaroo.

The snakes including some of the most venomous in the world were safely behind full glass enclosures that still allowed a relatively clear shot as shown in our photos.

When mom got busy in a bit of a scuffle with another Koala, joey, Violet, decided to high tail away from the action.
Of course, not surprisingly, the Koalas captured our hearts. Jasmine was able to take us inside the  “nursery” of the Koala House. For the first time, seeing baby Koalas inside the pouches of their loving mothers was a sight we’d long desired to see. 
Curious as we approached.

The “joey-in-the-pouch” sighting warmed our hearts as well as the other visitors happily snapping photos in the Koala House. Buttercup, an adult Koala, one of Jasmine’s favorites, who’d been rescued by the zoo after losing a leg after being hit by a car, sleepily cuddling in her eucalyptus tree.

It wasn’t unusual to see a variety of species sharing an area as is common in the wild.

Much to our surprise, Koalas can consume as many as 1000 eucalyptus leaves per day. With conservation in mind, the Cairns Tropical Zoo has managed to utilize a means of harvesting leaves from downed branches from the electric company’s clearing underneath power lines and from three dedicated eucalyptus plantations, rather than destroying trees in the forest. 

The Emu is the largest bird native to Australia. We couldn’t seem to get her/his attention when she was busy looking through the fence.

In addition, considerations are made for wildlife that may have originated from a more distinct winter/summer season with seasonal dietary needs. These facts only added to our respect for the zoo’s philosophy of creating a safe, healthy, and comfortable environment for all of its inhabitants.

With the bright sun reflecting on the Komoda Dragon house which is encased in glass for safety, we had a difficult time taking a photo through the glass, this being our best shot.

With our interest in a wide variety of birds throughout the world, we were particularly fascinated with the graceful and majestic pelicans, again with incredibly easy access for our photo taking. 

The Cassowary is the third tallest flightless bird in the world. A relatively shy bird that can be dangerous in the wild when provoked.

It would only be under these special circumstances that we’d have been able to capture such shots as those we’ve included in both yesterday’s and today’s post for which we are very grateful.

After recently posting distant photos of Cockatoos we spotted in Holloways Beach, it was fun to up close and personal in one of the aviaries in the zoo.

We express our heartfelt thanks to the staff at the Cairns Tropical Zoo for “handling” our visit with the same attention to detail and care as they provide for each and every creature habituating in their creative and loving environment including at times, some not-so-invited fly-ins.

The entrance to the zoo and gift shop. 

                                                Photo from one year ago today, July 12, 2014:

It was one year ago today that Tom had a haircut at a salon in Ribeira Brava, Madeira. For more photos and details from that date, please click here.

Part 1…An environment of dedication, compassion and love at the Cairns Tropical Zoo…

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It’s ironic that one of our favorite wild animals at the Cairns Tropical Zoo was the Dingo, looking familiar to us as a domesticated dog. However, Dingos are wild animals, and many attempts to domesticate them have failed. 

With expectations in check, we met Jasmine, the Mammal Department Supervisor at the Cairns Tropical Zoo on Tuesday morning. When neither of us has visited a zoo in many years, we found ourselves with mouths agape as Jasmine gave us a private tour that will remain a treasured memory for years to come.

Binturongs are closely related to the mongoose and distantly related to skunks and weasels. They have a distinct odor common in both males and females, similar to that of popcorn which is produced when scent marking for territorial rights and mating. This fellow is named Sari. Binturongs are on the endangered species list.

For world travelers, having spent nine months in Africa, having been on safari on many occasions, we had no idea how much pleasure and joy we’d experience seeing wildlife in a confined environment. With our previous lack of zoo experiences in the past 30 years, we had no idea how times have changed in the zoo industry.

The Wildlife Wedding Chapel on the ground of the zoo is a popular venue for weddings. Please click here for details.

Cairns Tropical Zoo depicts the epitome of progression resulting in the nurturing, love, and compassion of the preservation of many species we’d seldom, if ever, see in the wild during our time in Australia, on and off over a period of almost two years. 

The Koala, Phascolarctos cinereus, or, inaccurately, koala bear, is an arboreal herbivorous marsupial native to Australia. It is the only extant representative of the family Phascolarctidae, and its closest living relatives are the wombats.  In most cases, we don’t take photos of the wildlife from behind, but this scene made us smile when we visited the Koala nursery.

Jasmine spent considerable time as the three of us gathered in the Koala Cafe, answering our seemingly endless questions about the zoo, its management, feeding, and care of the vast array of wildlife. 

Check out this Koala face!  Could it be any more adorable?

Afterward, we were all anxious to continue on as she personally escorted us on a tour to see many of the zoo’s precious inhabitants. As a dedicated 10 plus year employee, Jasmine exhibits an enthusiasm one would never expect upon such employment longevity.

This scene took our breath away. This is a mother Koala with her “Joey” which is the name for all marsupial offspring. A Koala Joey is the size of a jelly bean, with no hair, no ears, and is blind at birth. Joeys crawl into the mother’s pouch immediately after birth, staying there until about six months old.

Throughout the tour, we never felt a sense of bored animals confined in small spaces with little to do but sit and watch annoying visitors. Instead, the expertly designed and maintained environments befitting each animal’s natural habitat, created a feeling of openness and freedom, enabling each species to thrive, propagate and live long, healthy lives, enhanced by the constant love and care of the many employees.

The natural bond between moms and their offspring is always precious to observe. Many visitors gathered around this area in awe of the experience.

Such was apparent in Jasmine’s description of each aspect of the zoo, as her eyes twinkled with sheer delight as she introduced us with pride to many of the species from the Komodo Dragons to the wide array of birds in the various aviaries. 

Jasmine, Tom, and Koala mom and Joey, who was named Violet after 10-year, devoted employee Jasmine’s daughter. 

What particularly appeals to us is the fact that the Cairns Tropical Zoo has rescued many wild animals bringing them back to health after severe injuries and illness that would prevent them from safely returning to the wild. Those deemed fit for released is returned to a safe wild environment. 

They were both checking out the action. Koalas eat as much as 1000 eucalyptus leaves per day. 

In addition, the zoo has taken the responsibility to include many endangered species, as well as those that may have been cast aside from private citizens hoping to domesticate an animal such as a Dingo, an animal never intended to be kept as a pet. 

This young Koala ventures away from mom for a moment.

As we often hear, wild animals are just that.  hey aren’t intended to become pets and the cast-offs of irresponsible owners often end up in zoos. Cairns Tropical Zoo welcomes such animals, anxious to provide them with a rich life they so well deserve since most often they cannot be returned to the wild and survive.

Boa Constrictor, safely behind the glass enclosure. There was a Reticulated Boa in the background which was difficult to see in the darkened area.

Much to our delight and good humor, Jasmine explained that oftentimes, a variety of birds and wildfowl including the Pacific Black Duck fly into the zoo’s habitat of other birds deciding on a free meal and “easy ride’’ often staying at their leisure. Nonetheless, these wild birds are fed.

The massive size of numerous Crocodiles in their well secured, but the viewable area is difficult to describe here. Their weight is estimated when it’s impossible to ever get them on a scale. They may weigh upwards of 1000 kg, 2205 pounds. 

The Cairns Tropical Zoo is located only 20 minutes north of Cairns, and 35 minutes south of Port Douglas at Palm Cove on the Captain Cook Highway. With easy free parking and reasonable entrance fees, it’s the perfect venue for both children and adults, tourists, and locals alike. 

It isn’t often we could get quite this close to a Crocodile to have a close-up view of the complex tail and hide.

The wildlife areas are easy to navigate with only a few gradual inclines making it possible for many with limitations to enjoy full access to most areas. For the times of operation, entrance fees, and extensive information about the Cairns Tropical Zoo, please click the links provided.

A smaller female Crocodile sunning with her mouth within close proximity to a larger male.

Tomorrow, we’ll return with Part 2, more photos and information about our visit to the zoo and our many new experiences with the wildlife we’ve never seen in our past worldwide travels.

Like us, Crocs have five digits but, that’s where the similarities end!

 


Photo from one year ago to July 11, 2014:
The fuzzy green buds on this exquisite orchid were quite a joy to see while on a flower hunt in Madeira. For details, please click here.

Pure joy!…Photos of two of the fledging Laysan Albatross chicks in Kauai…Vinny and Nash…The culmination to our passionate observation…

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For the purposes of illustration and the difficulty of determining which bird is Vinny and the other Nash, we’ve taken the liberty of speculating which of the two birds are shown in these photos, although each photo is one of the two. Also, due to the poor internet connection and the number of photos our line spacing may appear inaccurate.
The remaining fuzz doesn’t deter Nash from being ready to go. Only five months old, he’d yet to shed his chick fluff, but the dark lined eyes are very grown-up.
On Saturday morning as we began our day, sipping coffee and getting online Tom asked if I’d seen my email yet. I hadn’t. Instead, I was busy checking photos for the day’s post and contemplating the storyline. 
Vinny awoke this morning and decided, “Today’s the day,” and begins the long walk to the edge of the cliff.

Most days, I have no idea as to our story instead, using the most recent photos to lead the way into the day’s story. Posting with photos each day can be rather challenging at times, especially when we don’t always have enough good photos on file to share.

It’s a long walk for Vinny from the nest to the edge of the cliff.

With today’s scheduled appointment for an interview at the Cairns Tropical Zoo (see this post for details on why we’re going to a zoo) after which we’ll tour the zoo to take many photos of Australian wildlife which we’ll share here in the days to come, we thought having a story and photos to post early in the day would get us out the door on time.

Nash begins to hike from the nest to the cliff’s edge.

At times, we plan ahead by preparing a post a day or two early when we have something specific scheduled in the morning when I usually prepare the post. Luckily, we’re able to schedule the post to automatically upload at a designated time making it possible for it to upload while we’re away.

“This looks scary,” says Nash. “It’s a shame I’m having a bad hair day!”

Today’s story is such the case when Saturday morning’s email from our dear friend Richard in Kauai, sent both of us these awe-inspiring photos of Vinny and Nash as they fledge the nest and head out to sea to fen for themselves.

“So what if I don’t look very grown up! I can do this!”

These amazing photos were taken in the past few days by Bob Waid, albatross expert and photographer, who lives in the special neighborhood in Kauai (along with Richard) which we frequently visited to see the progression of the life cycle of the Laysan Albatross.

“I’m almost there.”

Somehow, from years of experience and sheer luck, Bob was able to take these photos that brought tears to my eyes. Bob Waid wrote the wonderful book on the life cycle and nesting habits of the intriguing Laysan Albatross which we read shortly after our arrival, relishing every photo included in the beautiful story. 

It’s a big commitment, worthy of contemplation.
“I can do this,” says Vinny.

While we lived in Kauai, Hawaii, USA for over four months before taking the cruise to Australia, we had the exquisite opportunity to visit the albatross, often several times each week, from the incubation stage when the many sets of parents were taking turns sitting on their solitary eggs, through the date in early February when the chicks finally hatched.

“Hey Ma, hey Pa! Look what I can do!”

From there, we had the joy of watching the chicks mature as they sat on their nests growing plumper and plumper each day as the parents took turns flying out to sea to feed. 

It’s a whole new world for Vinny and Nash

The parents were often gone for many days, leaving the chick returning to regurgitate the seafood to feed their precious chick. Watching the feeding in itself was a mind-boggling experience, one we treasured along with each step in the growth cycle. 

What a gorgeous young Laysan Albatross, minutes before fledging!
Having had the opportunity to meet both Bob Waid and later, Cathy Granholm, a docent with the Los Angeles Zoo (see this link for some photos, a video, and our story) both of whom live in the neighborhood only added to our extraordinary and memorable experience.
Vinny leaping off the cliff to a new life.

Cathy is the record keeper for the progression and growth of the Laysan Albatross chicks and families.  Tirelessly, she’s wandered through the neighborhood twice daily, spending hours recording the growth and behavior of the chicks, their parents, and yet to mature offspring many of whom return to this magical neighborhood year after year.  

A running start for Nash.
Cathy has managed this daunting task for the past 10 years, making it her way of life for seven to eight months of the year.  What dedication!

On Saturday morning when Tom suggested I immediately check my email with a huge smile on his face, I knew it was something wonderful as opposed to disturbing news of any type.

Almost over the edge!

Opening the message from Richard, my breath caught in my throat and I loudly gasped when I saw the photos as Tom spewed out the words, “It’s the chick named Vinny who is fledging.” 

“Hmm… It looks like I need to try again.”

Then again yesterday morning we found the second batch of photos of Nash fledging sent to us once again by Richard. I’d contacted Bob by email to ask him if he’d give us permission to post his photos. He was thrilled to share them with us and our worldwide readers.

Finally Nash is on his way.

After over four months, (nothing compared to Bob or Cathy’s commitment) of following the growth and progression of the chicks and taking endless photos and videos, the experience had finally come to fruition, even with us now living so very far away.

“Finally, I’m free!”

Having the opportunity to see these photos sent me over the moon in a swoon of joy. For those of our readers who followed the albatross journey with us, who perhaps tired of our constant comments, and photos, humor me one more time and check out these photos knowing they are posted with a love of wildlife and a passion for the mystery of life itself.

Vinny takes flight!

We both want to thank Bob, Cathy, and our friend Richard for introducing us to this extraordinary annual event that magically worked out perfectly during the time of our lengthy stay in Kauai. 

“Weee… This is fun!”

By the time you see this post, we’ll be on our way to see the wildlife of Australia. Although, we’d have preferred for the opportunity to see the animals in their natural habitat, as we’d watched the Laysan Albatross for months and as we experienced in both Kenya and South Africa, we’re grateful for this inside look into life in this environment.

Vinny’s off to his new life at sea.

Although the Cairns Tropical Zoo may be a controlled  environment, we have no doubt that the wildlife is nurtured with the care, compassion, and expertise of many dedicated individuals who appreciate each and every creature

Check out that wingspan on a five-month-old Laysan Albatross chick Nash as heads out to sea.

Most of all, as we wind down our story of this memorable experience, we want to express our love for the Laysan Albatross parents and chicks for giving us the glorious experience of witnessing a vital part of your life that in essence, has changed ours.

Off to the sea, perhaps to return to the neighborhood when they mature in four to five years to have their own chicks to nurture and love.

The last video we took of the albatross before we left Princeville, Kauai.

                                               Photo from one year ago today, July 7, 2014:

One year ago today, we’d booked an Australian cruise on the Celebrity Solstice, a ship on which we’ve sailed in the past on January 5, 2016, a mere six months away. How the time flies! For more details on this cruise, please click here.