Two days and counting…Favorite photos from Botswana, Zambia, and Zimbabwe…Chobe National Park, Victoria Falls,

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Alas, we arrived at the magical splendor of Victoria Falls, one of the Seven Wonders of the World.

“Sighting of the Day in the Bush”

Kudus is stopping by for a bit of breakfast.

Gosh, it’s hard to believe it was a year ago that we left South Africa for Zambia, Botswana, and Zimbabwe for sightseeing and a possible visa extension. To get a visa extension, travelers must depart to a country that isn’t bordering South Africa at any point.  

In the shallow area of Victoria Falls, we were gifted with a rainbow, but this was the first of many we saw throughout the day.
Zambia was a perfect choice, and from there, we visited Zimbabwe and Botswana. We had the opportunity to see Victoria Falls from both Zambia and Zimbabwe, which were two entirely different scenarios. We enjoyed every moment of finally being able to see the famous waterfalls.
I was happy to see Tom safely return from climbing to the top of the wet slippery bridge he tackled without me.  I’m not reasonably as surefooted as he is. It was slick, the visibility was poor, and I wouldn’t have been able to take photos in the heavy mist, so I stayed behind with Alec while we awaited his return. I was getting worried when he’d been gone a long time. Seeing him in his yellow poncho made me sigh with relief.
From this site:  “While it is neither the highest nor the widest waterfall in the world, Victoria Falls is classified as the largest, based on its combined width of 1,708 meters (5,604 ft.) and height of 108 meters (354 ft.), resulting in the world’s largest sheet of falling water.”

Also, we’d heard so much about Chobe National Park and the Chobe River. For years, I’d longed to do a sunset cruise on the Zambezi River, and as it turned it, we did it all, thrilled we had an opportunity to see so much.
The sights and sounds of Victoria Falls from both the Zambia and Zimbabwe sides were unlike anything we’ve seen in the past.

We spent a week on these trips, details and more of which may be found in the archives beginning on May 12, 2018, and continuing for several days. Please check out the links for more exciting photos and adventures during this fantastic trip.

After this elephant dug a decent-sized mud hole, he decided to try to lay on his side. Digging the hole must have been exhausting for this big fellow in the heat of the sun.  Please click here and scroll down to the videos for four stunning videos of him swimming in the Chobe River.

As it turned out, once again, we needed a visa extension, and we returned in August for more exciting tours.  More on this later. In any case, it was fun to see other African countries. To date, we’ve been to nine countries on the African continent, which is nothing compared to its total of 54.  

There are no less than a dozen countries in Africa it’s unlikely we’ll ever visit, which present enormous risks for tourists. We’ve thoroughly enjoyed being in Africa but don’t want to take any unnecessary risks.  
The best snorkeling apparatus on the planet…his trunk. His huge feet were no longer touching the river bottom, and he was buoyant.

We’re often asked if we’ll return to Africa, and that’s definitely on our itinerary, especially when we’ve booked a cruise to Cape Town in two years. However, what will transpire at immigration in Johannesburg will determine when we’ll be allowed to re-enter the country. We’ll see how that goes and report back during our upcoming lengthy travel day.

During our sunset cruise on the Zambezi River, we spotted these bee-eaters making nests and burrows into holes they made in the river bank.

As for posting on our upcoming long travel day, Saturday, May 11th, we will upload a post in the morning before we depart for Nelspruit airport. We’ll arrive in Connemara on Sunday afternoon, and if time allows, we’ll upload a short post indicating we’ve arrived.  

Sunset on the Zambezi River.

If you don’t see a post on Sunday, it will be due to an arrival later than we’d expected, and we’ll wait until the following day. At that point, we’ll have been traveling for 24 hours or more and maybe too tired to do so.

Riding the ferry is free for people but not for vehicles between Zambia and Botswana but, to disembark requires removing one’s shoes and walking in the water.

I’m going from recuperating in a mostly lying-down position to a 24-hour travel day. I have no idea how well I’ll feel when we arrive. But, please rest assured that after some rest and one night’s sleep, we’ll be right back here writing to all of you.

Of course, I’d be lying if I said I was totally at ease in anticipation of this long travel day. My number one objective will be to walk every hour on the various flights except when fully reclined in my business class seat in the middle of the night.

Albert, our guide, prepared “tea time” before we entered the Chobe National Park.

Ah, let’s hope it all goes smoothly. There’s only a 90-minute layover in Johannesburg, and that’s where we’ll have to deal with immigration. If the process is lengthy, we could miss the flight. My being in a wheelchair will hopefully speed up the waiting time in the lines at immigration.

That’s it for today, folks. We’re hoping you all have a peaceful and stress-free day!

Note:  Due to a WiFi signal issue this morning, the line and paragraph spacing are “off,” preventing me from correcting the situation.

Photo from one year ago today, May 9, 2018:

An elephant taking a drink from the river. For more photos, please click here.

When all is said and done, what will it really cost????…

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The boys are especially handsome with their budding horns.
“Sighting of the Day in the Bush”
The kudus give us “the look,” which means “more pellets please,”

Note:  Please bear with us for the lack of innovative and exciting photos. Stuck on the veranda and with only a few visitors each day, our photo ops are limited right now.

As mentioned in yesterday’s post, whether we like it or not, whether it’s fair or not, we are faced with a monumental financial loss due to my recent triple coronary bypass surgery.
 
Having to cancel all prepaid venues over the next three months results in a financial loss for which there is nothing we can do that we haven’t already attempted.
On top of the incurred losses is the fact that we had to pay for the holiday rental of the “Orange” house from February to May when we’ll depart for Ireland for the upcoming three-month rental in Connemara by the sea.  This booking will remain in place.
Two female kudus stopped by this morning.
We’re looking forward to the summer months in Ireland, but the realities of what it will have cost us to get there are quite a sting. Once again, I’ll reiterate, we are immensely and eternally grateful to have discovered my severe heart condition while in South Africa for several reasons:
  1. The cost of health care in this country is very reasonable
  2. The quality of medical care in South Africa is exemplary
  3. South Africa is known for its advancements in heart disease as compared to other countries throughout the world
  4. The cost of living while recovering is as much as 50% less than in many other countries throughout the world
We couldn’t have been in a better place when discovering this life-threatening condition. Oh, gosh, had we gone on to Kenya, we would have been in dire straits trying to find the quality of care required to “right” this condition. We are so grateful for being here in South Africa.
Soon they were accompanied by a young male, most likely an offspring of one of the females.
Now we are faced with bearing the entire cost of the operation, doctors, and follow-up care when our insurance company is looking for any possible “out” to avoid paying the claim, only adding to our worry and stress. We are talking about a lot of money.
 
Today’s post is presented with the intent of sharing these losses but may not be exact to the penny. The time and energy required for the exact numbers aren’t quite where I’m during this recovery period. But, the numbers we present today are within 5% of the actual costs. I’m still not quite clear-headed enough to be as precise as we’d usually strive to be.
 
So, here’s an overview of the losses we’ll have incurred as a direct result of this dire medical emergency.
 
  • Flight to Kenya from South Africa (non-refundable) ZAR 15752, US $1135
  • Kenya Safari Tour (non-refundable) ZAR 199688, US $14,400 with a promised refund of ZAR 69336, US $5000 for a total loss of ZAR 130352, US $9400
  • Hotel in Santiago Chile (non-refundable) ZAR 20440, US $1474
  • Cruise from Chile to San Diego, CA (partially refundable) ZAR 22174, US $1599
  • Flight from San Diego, CA to Minneapolis, MN (non-refundable) ZAR 6330, US $ 456.60
  • Cruise from Fort Lauderdale, FL to Copenhagen, Denmark (partially refundable) ZAR 12480, US $900
Total losses: ZAR 207523  US $14,965
 
Plus, we must include any medical expenses for hospitals, doctors, and medications. We’ll report back on these as they become known shortly. With these totals included, we will be looking at a total loss, more than ZAR 1040040, US $75,000.
Such cuteness…
Also, ironically, we received a notice from Expedia while I was in the hospital that the flight from Nairobi, Kenya to Santiago, Chile, was being canceled. We’d be refunded the entirety of this expense (not calculated in the above costs). This credit hasn’t been reflected on our credit card yet, but we’re watching for it.
 
As we review these losses, they are meaningless when compared to the fact that my life has been spared, and in time, as we recovery physically, emotionally, and financially, we’ll move into the future with excitement, hope, and fulfillment for that which is yet to come.
 
Thanks to all of our readers/friends, and family for their loving support and prayers during this challenging time.
Photo from one year ago today, February 27, 2018:
I had the opportunity to feed tiny Doc, who slowly nibbled on the teaspoon. For more details on bushbaby rehab, please click here.

Social whirlwind during our remaining two weeks in the bush…A great evening with friends…

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A barren tree in the middle of the S130 in Kruger created an exciting scene.

“Sighting of the Day in the Bush”

Two yellow-billed storks and one cattle egret at the far end of Sunset Dam in Kruger.

This morning, we calculated exactly how many meals we’ll have to cook during our remaining two weeks in Marloth Park. Considering the contents of the chest freezer, we’ll only be cooking dinner eight more nights. We won’t need to purchase more protein sources.

As mentioned in an earlier post, Kathy and Don are giving us a going-away party next Friday, February 8th at their riverfront home in Marloth Park. It will be a sit-down dinner party for 12, the maximum number they can fit at their big table on their third-floor veranda overlooking the Crocodile River.

Wildebeest and her calf in Kruger.

Unfortunately, we couldn’t invite everyone we’ve come to know and love in the park, so we chose those friends with whom we’ve become closest. Sadly, Rita and Gerhard won’t be attending the party.  

They had to leave to return to the US in a hurry due to the sudden passing of a dear friend.  They don’t intend to return anytime soon. We miss them already. But, Rita and I have stayed in close touch, and we have no doubt we’ll be together again, perhaps as early as in the next six months.

Zebras were grazing on new growth from recent rains.

Also, next week on Tuesday, Kathy is hosting my pedicure at a local spa/resort. Linda will join us, after which we’ll all have lunch at the resort. It’s been so long since I’ve had a girls-only event. This will surely be quite an enjoyable event.  

I haven’t had a professional pedicure in at least 10 years. I rarely afford myself such a luxury when generally it just isn’t that important to me. But doing this with the girls will make it very special and memorable.

Four male cape buffalo were lounging at the river’s edge.

Next Wednesday is Leon’s birthday which we’ll attend at Jabula as we had for Dawn’s birthday on Tuesday evening, adding one more event to the social calendar.

On top of that, we’ll dine at Jabula the next two Saturdays, this upcoming on our own and the following with Kathy, Don, Linda, and Ken for our final time together.

Family crossing the paved road.

We plan to dine out one more time in the next few weeks, plus spend our last night, Wednesday, February 13th, in the bush at Jabula, avoiding the cooking and clean-up at the house.  

The following morning we’ll drive to Nelspruit, where we’ll spend one night at the Protea Hotel near the airport for our early morning flight on the 15th to Nairobi, Kenya.

A bull elephant we stopped to observe, hoping for a better photo.

Yesterday, we made a reservation at a highly rated restaurant, Orange (coincidentally, like the name of this holiday home), where we’ll dine that evening on Valentine’s Day.  

We informed the restaurant we’ll be writing a review and look forward to an excellent experience. Currently, this restaurant is listed as #1 out of 89 restaurants in Nelspruit on Tripadvisor.  We’ll write our review here shortly after that and also at TripAdvisor.

He moved into a clearing, and we noticed he was standing with his back legs crossed.

As for last night, we joined Uschi and Evan at their home for sundowners. As it turned out, Uschi had put together a few trays of fabulous appetizers, all of which I could eat.  

We’d intended to stay for only an hour or two but ended up not leaving until 2130 hours (9:30)! The friendship and conversation were utterly delightful, and most assuredly, they’ll be at the party and staying in touch down the road.  

Our dear friends Evan and Uschi, on their veranda last night.

The meal we’d left to be cooked went uneaten, but tonight we’ll have the easy dinner. I’ve made a salad and prepared vegetables after we just returned from shopping in Komatipoort.

Enjoy some of our remaining photos from Monday’s foray into Kruger. Tomorrow, we’ll be back with all new photos and more.

Uschi with us at the veranda table.

Happy day!

Photo from one year ago today, January 31, 2018:

View of the sea from Grytviken, South Georgia, Antarctica.  Please click here for more photos.

Croc shock!…Stunning Crocodile River sightings from Ngwenya…

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One mean looking croc!

“Sighting of the Day in the Bush”

Last night’s sunset from Ngwenya Restaurant’s veranda overlooking the river.

At times, I almost don’t know where to begin to tell you about our past 24 hours, which is exactly what we share on most days. Sure, we may describe sightings and events that may have transpired on other days, but overall, our goal is to divulge the most recent.

Elephants were making their way toward the sparse water in the Crocodile River.

So, today, as I share the events of yesterday, I can’t help but smile over how Mother Nature (i.e., safari luck) continues to come our way wherever we may be in this utopia of wildlife, scenery, and nature.

What a breathtaking scene as they crossed the dry riverbed!

For example, last night’s photo of the sunset at Ngwenya was genuinely breathtaking. So quickly, it vanishes into the horizon for darkness to fall and a single sentence spoken to each other or our friends, and we’ve missed the entire event.

Moms, the matriarch, and several youngsters, including a tiny baby, made their way to the water.

It also was the case when yesterday, we decided to leave the house for Ngwenya at 1630 hours (4:30 pm) instead of our usual almost 5:00 pm. Had we lingered for 30 minutes, we have missed most of today’s photos. I suppose it’s all about timing and sheer coincidence.  

They kicked up a lot of dust as they made their way over the dry riverbed.

It’s certainly has nothing to do with any skill or innate perception on our part, except for the fact that we’re aware that sightings are better at certain times of day than others.

This baby couldn’t have been more than a few weeks old.

With only six days until Tom and Lois depart to return to the US and only three months and 25 days until we leave South Africa for Kenya (if a visa extension is provided), I’ve begun to feel a sense of loss over our eventual departure.  

When we leave on February 20th, should all go as hoped, we’ll be returning to South Africa on December 2, 2020, a mere one year, nine months, and 12 days, arriving in Capetown by cruise where we’ll spend a few days and then head directly back to Marloth Park.

The mature elephants indeed protect the little ones.

But, so much can change between now and then. The park could be different with less wildlife, and changes could transpire that we can’t even conceive of at this point.  


Life is unpredictable. So much is beyond our control. Merely fantasizing about how we’d like it to be and what it subsequently “will be” can be but a figment of our imagination. The world is rapidly changing. We are all evolving as we age, and no one can predict a few years from now.

Finally, they approached an area with easier access to the river.

In our “perfect world,” we’d still be traveling as we are. We’ll have been to many more places, seen many more wonders, and perhaps even finding ourselves loving other sites as much as we’ve loved it here.

We shall see. Neither of us is caught up in any dreadful type of expectations. We roll with it as we go and strive to do our best to make our ongoing dreams come to fruition. There will never be a time that we’ll stop dreaming.

From quite a distance, we spotted a female lion.

Today, we had another exceptional experience when the four of us took quite a drive to see an authentic African village, outstanding musical production, and learns about the culture. We’ll be sharing that story and photos tomorrow.

Please check back.  We have so much more.

Have a pleasant and peaceful evening.

Photo from one year ago today, October 26, 2017:

In Kauai, Hawaii, our dear friend Louise wrote to tell us this bird we spotted in the yard in Costa Rica was a Fiery-billed Aracari. What am a fantastic bird!  For more photos, please click here.

Cheetah day!…Expressions of a cheetah in the wild…Fantastic sightings in Kruger National Park…

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Based on our position in the line-up of vehicles our photo taking advantage was limited.  

“Sighting of the Day in The Bush”

The now-visiting-daily mongooses gather in a pile staring at us until Tom mixes up the bowl of eggs. I talk to them to keep them entertained while he prepares the eggs. We’re happy to feed them to keep them around to deal with snakes.

As mentioned in yesterday’s post here, when the power had gone out in the morning we decided to go to Kruger for the day. Not knowing when it would return and based on the high temperature of 42C (108F) it wasn’t such a bad idea to spend the better part of the day in the airconditioned little car.

These cats are easily distinguishable from leopards based on the dark tears running down their eyes.

Our expectations weren’t high on such a hot day. Would wildlife hide under trees and bush to take cover from the heat? No doubt, many did just that as we spotted many herds of impalas, kudus, and wildebeest seeking protection from the heat of the sun.

It was a mere week or so ago we’d been to Kruger traveling along the main paved road (one of few) that we observed the recent “controlled burn” leaving the bush along that road blackened for at least 45 minutes of the hour-plus drive to Lower Sabie. And yet, magically, it already seemed to be recovering.

Every so often, she’d change positions providing us with additional shots.

We decided to stop for breakfast at the Mugg & Bean restaurant in Lower Sabie which overlooks the Sabie River, often providing some good sightings and photo ops. After breakfast, we’d continue on our self-drive traveling on bumpy dirt roads. 

We watched the cheetah for quite a while but she never stood. In the scorching heat, she seemed comfortable in the shade.

The drive surpassed our expectations, especially when early on we noticed a number of safari vehicles driving down a dirt road to a loop we’d never noticed in the past. We believe based on the map that it was at Gasanftom Road/Gezantombi Waterhole/Watergat.

Moments after entering the loop, we encountered no less than eight safari vehicles with passengers hanging out the sides and windows with cell phones, cameras, and tablets in hand.

What a nice face!

They were obviously gushing with enthusiasm as to the creature before their eyes, a cheetah lying in the shade, awake, alert, and seemingly unaffected by the presence of the growing crowd.

Dozing for a moment?

Tom maneuvered the little car to the best possible vantage point and we too felt excited with this sighting. It was one of few cheetahs we’d seen in Kruger over these past many months. There was only one cheetah.

Sure, we’d like to have seen more cheetahs. But, as we’ve learned over this long period in Marloth Park/Kruger National Park, we’ve come to appreciate spotting “one” of any wild animal. Yes, numbers are exciting but it doesn’t diminish the power, grace, and beauty of any species.

She heard a sound in the bush.

Here are some facts about cheetahs, the second-fastest mammal on the planet, from Kruger’s site here:

“The Cheetah’s body is built for speed. Its legs are relatively long compared to its greyhound-like body; it has a big heart and lungs and wide nasal passages. It is the fastest land animal, timed running at speeds of up to 114km/h (71 mph). While the lion and the leopard rely on getting close to their intended prey before breaking cover, the cheetah’s speed gives it an advantage in the more open savanna. Cheetahs are slightly taller than leopards but not as bulky, probably weighing between 40kg (88 lbs) and 60kg (132 lbs). Although cheetahs are members of the cat family, they have dog-like non-retractable claws. This limits their tree-climbing ability but gives them a speed advantage when charging.

This lone cheetah seemed unperturbed by the clicking of cameras and numerous vehicles in the area. We couldn’t believe how thin she was. We’d seen cheetahs in the past but none looking quite this lean.

Typically, a cheetah will start a charge 60m (66 yards) to 100m (109 yards) from an antelope and, within seconds, will be racing at full tilt. If the buck is alerted in time, it will attempt to throw the cheetah off its trail by zigzagging and dodging between trees and shrubs. Using its long, heavy tail as a stabilizer, the cheetah will single-mindedly pursue its intended prey, trying to anticipate which way it will turn. At the right moment, it will knock the antelope off balance and grab it by the throat as it falls. Because of the relatively small jaws and teeth, cheetahs are not as effective in killing their prey as quickly as lions or leopards, and it can take between five and 25 minutes for its prey to die.

A little grooming was in order.

The element of surprise in hunting is as important for cheetahs as it is for other big predators. While its speed gives it an edge, the cheetah’s vulnerable point is its stamina. It will manage to run at top speed for only about 250m (273 yards) before it needs to catch its breath.

After a high-speed chase, the cheetah desperately needs to rest for about half an hour – even before it eats its prey. This is when cheetahs are at their most vulnerable. They are often robbed of their kill by lions or hyaenas during this recovery spell. If the cheetah is unmolested, it normally devours its prey at the kill site. A cheetah’s food tastes are not as broad as that of the leopard, and it concentrates mostly on small and medium antelope. The cheetah’s diet comprises of the young of larger animals, as well as warthog, ground birds, porcupines, and hares, as well as the smaller antelope. The cheetah’s kill rate is hard to determine, but the consensus is that each cheetah kills between 30 and 150 animals a year, depending on its size, hunting frequency, and the condition of the area. Experts believe a single cheetah ideally needs between one and three kilograms of meat a day to stay in shape.”

For the remainder of this story, please click the above link.
Lounging on a hot day in Kruger.
After the cheetah sighting, we encountered several equally exciting wildlife scenes, which we’ll continue to share in posts over the next several days. Please check back for more.
 
As for today, it’s hot again, similar to yesterday’s unseasonal heat. It’s still winter here for a few more days! As we write here today sitting outdoors on the veranda, it’s currently 35C (95F) and we’re doing fine.  
 
We’ve got the braai (grill) fired up and cooking tonight’s chicken dinner in the event of a power outage at dinnertime which can easily transpire with added power usage during the hot weather.
 

We hope you have a fantastic day whether it’s hot or cool or a balmy almost-fall or almost-spring day!

Photo from one year ago today, September 19, 2017:

“The variegated squirrel is a tree squirrel in the genus Sciurus found in Costa Rica, El Salvador, Guatemala, Honduras, southern Mexico, Nicaragua, and Panama. Fifteen subspecies are recognized.”  Tom spotted this squirrel in the yard, alerted me and I took this photo through the glass wall to avoid scaring it away.  For more photos, please click here.

Hot, hot, hot…42C, 108 F…We went to Kruger…Hornbills preparing for mating season…

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This is not a birdfeeder.  This is an abandoned bushbaby house that our 12 bushbabies don’t care to use.  These male and female hornbills have recently taken seeds from our birdfeeder and placed them inside the bush baby house.

“Sighting of the Day in The Bush”

These four bushbucks, two moms, and two babies know the drill. Stand at the bottom of our veranda steps, and you’ll get pellets and ice-cold lettuce, celery tops, carrots, and apples. When we returned from Kruger a short time ago, they were waiting there for us. They sure appreciated it today.

Today’s post will be more compact than usual. We just returned from a full day at Kruger National Park and the time available to get it done before our evening ritual on the veranda begins at 1700 hours (5:00 pm) is limited.

We’re assuming they’re preparing this house as a future nesting spot since we see them do this almost daily.  They both come to peer inside to check out their handiwork.
When they’re satisfied with their day’s work, they head back to the birdfeeder for a bit of sustenance for themselves, as shown below.

With temperatures expected in the 42C (108F) range, it made a lot of sense to spend the better part of the day in airconditioned comfort in the little car while driving through Kruger searching for magical moments.

On top of it, the sugar cane burning fires filled the air with so much smoke getting away was a perfect scenario. We began packing our iced teas, camera, batteries, passports, and prefilled-out Kruger entrance document and were on our way in no time at all.

Here’s the mating pair filling up in preparation for the upcoming spring mating season.

It was still earlier enough in the day not to feel the magnitude of the expected temps, but we dressed in shorts and tee shirts, ready for however hot it may eventually reach.  

This young male kudu has a long way to go in his maturity to become a “Big Daddy eventually.”  In the interim, we’re thrilled to provide him with pellets when he stops by.

With a plan to stop at the Mugg & Bean Restaurant in Lower Sabie for breakfast or lunch, we knew we’d be spending our time there, outdoors in the hot weather on their veranda overlooking the Sabie River but didn’t give it a thought. This is Africa. It gets hot here.

And, for those of our readers in other parts of the world, it’s still winter here.  Spring begins in the next few days as fall begins north of the equator. We haven’t forgotten how hot it is here in the summer months.  

His horns (not antlers…they don’t lose these) will eventually make another twist as he matures.

Almost five years ago, we spent three months here during the heat of summer. It was hot and sweaty. We managed, as we’ll work now. In some countries, homes may have full-house airconditioning as we experienced in our old lives.  

Elephants we spotted from the fence in Marloth Park during yesterday’s drive.

In Africa and in many other countries worldwide that cater to tourists, air conditioning is only provided in bedrooms by use of an on-the-wall unit that generally keeps the sleeping quarters comfortable, which is the case here.

Right now, on the veranda, it is exactly as stated above. But, when anywhere else in the house, the heat is felt full-on. Perhaps, by the time we prep the veranda for the evening, the temps will begin to subside. In any case, we won’t be missing a night outdoors due to the heat.  

It’s common to see elephants at the Crocodile River on these hot days.

In our old lives, we’d never had sat outside in such hot weather, preferring to stay cool and comfortable indoors. But, as we always say, “This is Africa,” It’s not like our old lives.

And today, while in Kruger, we’re especially reminded of how unlike our day was compared to any day in times long ago remembered. This is a different life now, not to compare, although it’s irresistible to mention the vast difference at times.

So here’s how the day rolled out. This morning as I was getting ready for the day, we experienced a power outage. With no power for WiFi, we decided today would be a perfect day to head to Kruger.

We can’t wait to share today’s photos in tomorrow’s post. We took so many good photos, and it will take days until we get through the bulk of them we’d like to share here.
Please check back tomorrow for some first-time-sightings (for us) that Kruger bestowed upon us in her magical and mysterious ways.

Have a great evening!  We plan on it!

Photo from one year ago today, September 18, 2017:

At the Atenas Railway Museum in Costa Rica, Juan Ramon was excited to show us this bottle with a marble inside.  For more photos, please click here.

Kruger was on fire…Charred bush on both sides of the tar road …What’s going on?…

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Upon entering Kruger National Park from the Crocodile Bridge, we encounter the devastation from fires on both sides of the tar road for many kilometers. Many downed trees were still smoking, as shown in this photo.

“Sighting of the Day in the Bush”

Vervet monkey drinking water off the roadway.

To provide our readers with new photos in each day’s post, we often have to consider our inventory of new images. Posting each day usually leaves us short of new and different photos. When this happens every so often, we make a special effort, rain or shine, to get out in search of more shots.

Yesterday was such a day. We were recently preoccupied with immigration issues and hadn’t taken the time to go into Kruger since we returned from Zambia and Botswana on August 23rd.  

We hadn’t been to Kruger since August 1st, based on crowds during the holiday season. Plus, we were away, and when we returned, we were preoccupied with the visa situation. Finally, we went to the park to find this burnt bush along both sides of the road during a one-hour drive along the tar road.

We hadn’t been to Kruger since August 1st due to the crowds during the holiday season, which continues, although less at the moment. It will begin to ramp up again by September 21st, the first spring day in this part of the world.  Also, school holidays start on September 24th and will continue well into October.

The peace we’re enjoying now will change entirely during the above period. We must remain patient while we focus on enjoying the wild animals that visit during this time and the exquisite scenes that will continue on the Crocodile River, which we can see from the Marloth Park side of the fence between the two parks. The crowds have no bearing on wildlife visiting the river.

The terrain was now hostile for wildlife, and there had been reports from tourists seeing dead animals burned to death in the fires. Heartbreaking.

Our expectations weren’t high when we crossed the Crocodile Bridge into the park, where there was no wait at the entrance gate. We showed our passports, the completed entry form, and our WildCard (yearlong) pass to gain entrance.

It was raining when we entered. In essence, we were happy it was raining when it’s so good for the wildlife to have better water sources and the greening of the vegetation providing abundant food sources.  

Baboons are drinking and playing in the rainwater on the tar road in Kruger.

As dry as it has been these past months, rain is undoubtedly welcomed as a valuable regeneration resource for the bushveld and its wildlife. We’ve never heard any locals complaining about any rainy weather, nor do we. And soon, the rainy season will begin in full force, the closer we get to spring.

As we began the drive along the tar road, our preferred route in the little cars, knowing full well wildlife can be anywhere whether it’s on the tar road or the many dirt roads since they are always on the move regardless of the road surface, we couldn’t help but notice the bush looking more and more charred as we continued on.

Bird of prey in a tree.

Within about 10 minutes, we were surrounded by smoldering trees with smoke wafting through the air on both sides of the road. It even smelled of smoke in the car with the windows closed, and I found myself choking from time to time. Tom, a former smoker, and fireman didn’t seem to notice it as much as I did. For more information on fires in Kruger National Park, please click here.

After the sad drive along the tar road and choking from the smoke, we decided to take the dirt road loop back to the Crocodile Bridge, another hour-long drive.  

The further we drove, the worse it became. We spotted a few animals drinking rainwater out of the puddles and ruts in the road and none in the bush. 

After driving for over an hour, shocked by what we were seeing and anxious to see at least a little wildlife, we took the loop turnoff back to the Crocodile Bridge.  There was no way we were interested in seeing more of the burnt bush.

Once we took the turnoff onto the dirt road, we no longer were driving through the burnt area of the bush and were able to spot a few animals.

After some online research and asking friends, we discovered most likely it was a controlled burn meant to ultimately replenish the vegetation for the benefit of the park and its wildlife.

We couldn’t help but wonder how many animals may have died during the controlled fires. Most animals would flee to safer areas during a fire regardless of its source or intention. From time to time, there are fires during the dry season from human carelessness and lightning.

We were thrilled to see a few giraffes wandering through the bush.

The Rangers set this recent vast fire on both sides of Gomondwane Road (the paved road) and burned for many, many days and kilometers. Since we hadn’t been to Kruger in over a month, we had no idea.

Once on the dirt road, we encountered wildlife but in the rain, very little.  For the first time, we didn’t see a single elephant, a rarity. Next time we go to Kruger, we won’t bother to travel along the tar road once the holidaymakers are reduced in numbers. Instead, we’ll follow other routes, of which there are many in the enormous national park.

Generally, when it’s raining, the animals take cover in dense bush and under trees. As a result, we only spotted a few animals even after we left the burnt area.

Over the next few days, we will share more photos. Today, we’re busy getting ready for tonight’s small dinner party with friend Don (of Kathy and Don…she’s in California right now) and his visiting brother Keith. No doubt, as always, it will be an enjoyable evening.

Last night we had a fabulous evening at Jabula Lodge & Restaurant.  The food was superb, the ambiance ideal, and we had an opportunity to meet new people, two of whom joined us at our table for four during dinner. The place is lively and often filled with friendly South Africans who never fail to engage in great conversation.

Male impala drinking rainwater from the road during the downpour.

The same theme reverberates through the restaurant each time we visit.  Whether tourists or locals, everyone in attendance is enthralled to be among the divine abundance of nature and wildlife in the bush.

Enjoy the day!

Photo from one year ago today, September 9, 2017:

Gabriel, the owner of El Toledo Coffee Factory in Costa Rica, explained the different roasts attributed to the varying degrees of flavor and caffeine.  Again, we were shocked to discover that dark roast, although possessing a more pungent taste, has the least caffeine, contrary to what most believe. For more on the coffee factory, please click here.

Immigration realities…Chobe saga continues…More exciting photos…Guest photos…

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Holiday home on stilts on the bank of the Chobe River, suitable for the rainy season when the water level rises.

“Sighting of the Day in Chobe National Park”

An old massive elephant resting his trunk on his tusk. We saw this only one other time in the Maasiai Mara in 2013. Here’s the link to that post where there are some shocking photos we’d taken at that time including lions! 

Much to our sadness and dismay, we have to leave South Africa in 88 days on November 21, 2018, unable to complete the remaining time we’d hoped we could stay until February 21, 2019. We’re so disappointed.

Skilled birders, Lynne and Mick, identified this bird as an emerald spotted dove.Thanks, you two, for once again assisting us!

Here’s how it rolled out when we arrived at the airport two days ago and went through the immigration line:

It’s unusual to see a giraffe grazing on the ground.  Also, in this photo are two white cattle egret and a few Egyptian geese.

The immigration officer flipped through our passports and kept saying, “No, no, no. You cannot do this.”  Technically a traveler can only stay one 90-day period in 12 months, not for a full 12 months, as we’d hoped.

Another stunning croc on the Chobe River.

The laws were vague and confusing when we read them. We knew this risk existed but we decided to take the risk anyway. Having made that decision to “wing it” when we first arrived in February, we’re grateful we’ll have had the nine months we managed to stay when all is said and done.  

We’re unable to identify this type of antelope in Chobe.  Any ideas what this may be?

We talked her into giving us one more 90-day period which ends on November 21, 2018. She noted our status on the computer. There is nothing we can do. If we tried one more time, we could immediately be sent out of the country without an opportunity to pack up our stuff and find a place to go. That’s way too risky for us.

A parade of elephants staying cool under the shade of a tree.

Instead, we’ve accepted this reality and last night when Louise and Danie stopped by for sundowners and to say hello, we told them the bad news. They were sad along with us, trying to think of solutions. We appreciate their love and concern. There are no alternatives. We must go.

This monstrous male came out of the bush to check us out.

We have to be in Nairobi, Kenya on February 22, 2019, for our upcoming photo safari adventure which won’t begin until 92 days after we exit South Africa in November. Where are we going to go for 92 days? 

This elephant was not happy this boat was blocking her way to get onto the shore of an island.

Of course, we can always go to Kenya a few days earlier to leave us to spend 90 days in some other African country which we’ll have to do. Most countries we’re considering have 30, 60, or 90 visa limitations. We’d prefer to stay in one country for the entire 90 days.  

Hazy morning view of the Chobe River.

Hopping around in Africa is difficult due to flight hubs requiring many extra hours of travel time, often as long as 24 to 30 hours. There are many countries we won’t consider for this extended period due to political unrest, Ebola, and other risks for travelers, one can only imagine.

Enormous bird nest.

We’ve already visited eight African countries out of 54. You’d think we’d have lots of options. But with our desire to stay 90 days, and find suitable housing to actually enjoy the 90-day time period, it’s not as easy as one might think. 

Hippos napping in shallow water to keep their sensitive skin cool and protected from sunburn.
Hippos grazing close to the shore of the Chobe River.

Thus, fast and furiously we’re researching, narrowing down our options to those that will fulfill our goals while providing us with a great experience to boot. It’s not easy.

Guest photo #1 from Beth Schroeder, a US citizen, working in Dubai who, like us had visited Chobe in May and then again in August.
Guest photo #2 from Beth Schroeder. Thanks for sharing Beth. It was great spending time with you during our game drive in Chobe National Park and on the Chobe River safari.  Great shots of elephants!

Yes, we’re disappointed. We had looked forward to spending Christmas and New Year in the bush with our human and animal friends. We looked forward to seeing the newborns scurrying around the park with their doting mothers (and sometimes dads) on the perpetual search for food, safety, and shelter during the hot days of summer.

To travel from Zambia to Botswana we had to go across the Zambezi River in a small boat. Four countries meet at this exact location: Botswana, Namibia, Zambia, and Zimbabwe. The bridge is still under construction and isn’t expected to be completed for 18 months or more.

But, in the realm of things we’ve had our fair share…more than we could have ever dreamed possible. And for that, we are humbled and grateful, leaving here in 88 days with our hearts filled with love and our minds drenched in memories.

Be well. Be happy. Be fulfilled.

Photo from one year ago today, August 25, 2017:

We were in awe of this view from the veranda in Atenas, Costa Rica, when the afternoon clouds roll in each day.For more photos, please click here.

We’re back!! And they’re back, too!…Final expenses for Zambia and Botswana…Playful Chobe kudu video…

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Our most recent bag of pellets contained a lot of dust. As Tom began to sweep the dust from the pellets off the veranda’s edge, these four kudus took a spot to begin licking off the dust.

“Sighting of the Day on the Veranda”

This young male’s horns have started to sprout. How right he is! He was mature and experienced enough to know that looking into our eyes would reap some rewards.

We’d intended to post more Zambia and Chobe National Park (Botswana) photos today but have decided to do so over several days instead. We wanted to focus on the expenses today but something magical occurred this morning. We had a record-breaking 19 kudus come to call including moms and their offspring of varying ages.

There were more out of view of the camera for a total of 19 in our garden this morning, more than our prior record of 17.

There aren’t words in the English language that can describe the joy we felt as one by one they approached the veranda, making direct eye contact with us. Our hearts were pounding with sheer delight. We couldn’t toss the pellets quickly enough.

Sixteen kudus in this photo, with more on the sidelines.

It was great to be back at the bush house in Marloth Park. Louise had arranged a deep “spring” cleaning as she’d done last time we were gone, and the house was dust-free and spotless. They’d even rearranged and tidied the kitchen drawers I tend to make messy from time to time. We couldn’t have appreciated it more.

Kudus are smart.  They sure know how to grab our heartstrings.

Bushbuck and Ms. Bushbuck, Baby Bushbuck and Friend, who must have been waiting for our return. Imagine their curiosity as to where we were for seven days and nights. The three bushbucks are here, content to see we’re still here as I write this now.

 No more than seconds after we pulled into the driveway, we had visitors waiting for us. Shortly after their visit, Josiah thoroughly washed the veranda floor, preventing the spread of disease among the kudus.

We’d planned to go out for dinner after our arrival, but neither of us felt like eating out again. Instead, we stopped at the Spar Supermarket in Melalane while Tom stayed in the car with our luggage while I shopped, buying enough to last until well into next week. This way, we wouldn’t have to leave right away.

They each picked a spot, licking to their heart’s content.

By 1900 hours, 7:00 pm, we were pulling the steaks off the braai, the salad and vegetables were prepared and we were both completely unpacked, sorting piles of laundry to get done today. (As it’s turned out, it’s a cloudy drizzly day and we’ve had to hang all the wet clothes on hangers throughout the house, after we had to bring them inside when it started raining).

 Last night, as always, we set up the veranda for the evening and set the table for dinner. We weren’t disappointed when several warthogs, a few kudus, our usual male duiker, and the typical bushbuck family hung around while we dined.  (We never feed them any of the animals our leftover food. They get pellets, fresh raw vegetables, and apples at this location), all fit for their consumption.

A few determined kudus, anxious for some greenery, began chewing on the “house” plants of the veranda.

As for the immigration situation, we’ll share the details in tomorrow’s post after we’d had an opportunity to do some research today. The news is both good and not-so-good. Somehow, we’ll figure it all out.

 I’m back to feeling like myself again since the side effects of the malaria pills have finally worn off after stopping them two days ago. After reading about the possibility of long-term side effects after stopping the drugs, I’m relieved to feel great again.

This kudu particularly liked the lemongrass plant.

I was a little queasy and dizzy on the return flight, especially when it became turbulent for a while, but oI felt better once we landed. South African Airways is a good airline, and we feel safe and comfortable flying with them overall.  

 They offered a complimentary lunch, but we both declined. We’d have our last (included) breakfast at the hotel and had no problem waiting to eat again until dinner.

A determined oxpecker held on tight while this kudu participated in dining on the pellets.

We’re looking forward to seeing Louise and Danie later today when they mentioned they’ll be stopping by to say hello. Tomorrow night, we’re meeting up with Kathy and Don and friends for dinner at Jabula. As usual, it will be another social weekend with both humans and animals.

 We couldn’t be happier, nor could we be more grateful for this beautiful life we live. Sure, it has its ups and downs as you’ve read as they occur and, in tomorrow’s post we’ll share a realistic down we must face going forward.  

This happened so quickly we barely had time to set the camera to video. It was fun to see this Big Daddy having a good time.
 

But, there’s always the joy of living in the moment, remembering the thrills of what transpired in the past and the excitement of the treasures the future holds.

 Here are the expenses we incurred for the seven-night trip to Zambia and Botswana as we continue to strive to extend our time in South Africa:

 Expense   US Dollar   South African Rand (ZAR) 
 Hotel & Flights (rt) 7 nights   $                  2,730.22  $                 39,073.66      
 Tours   $                     968.35  $                13,858,58        
 Taxi   $                       78.90  $                   1,129.18       
 Dining Out   $                     235.07  $                   3,364.21     
 Tip  $                       69.04  $                       988.07
 Visa (Zambia Immigration)   $                     160.00  $                    2,289.85
 Pharmacy & Misc.   $                       41.90  $                        599.65
 Total   $                 4,283.48  $                   61,303.20
 Avg Daily Cost    $                    611.93  $                      8,757.66

Please click here if you’d like to review our expenses for our last seven-night stay in Zambia, Botswana, and Zimbabwe. These visa extension trips are pricey, as shown.

May your day bring you joy!

Photo from one year ago today, August 24, 2017:

We had the opportunity for numerous iguana sightings at the rescue center in Costa Rica. For more photos, please click here.

Kruger never disappoints…Tomorrow’s post is special…Its a dusty life!…

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Mom and baby and auntie bushbucks visit each day.

“Sighting of the Day in the Bush”

We’d never seen an all-grey hornbill. 

For some odd reason, this morning upon awakening, it felt like Sunday when in fact, it is Wednesday, a perfect day to head to Kruger. There’s always less traffic mid-week when many holidaymakers have left the area to return to their homes after a long weekend.

Our living-on-the-premises housekeeper, Martha, is off for a week to see her family, and this morning Vusi, another of Louise and Danie’s trustworthy employees, arrived to clean the house and veranda.
Occasionally, they groom one another.

There are no words to describe how much dust enters the house daily. The entire garden area consists of dry, dusty soil with no grass, no shrubs, and no vegetation other than the property’s bush.

Every animal’s activities, from guinea fowls scratching the ground to zebra’s heavy-footed hooves, resulting in layers upon layers of dust covering every floor, counter, and surface on the veranda and inside the house.

Our favorite bushbucks come to call each day, standing at the bottom of the steps waiting for pellets, carrots, and apples.

Yesterday, before she left, Martha cleaned and dusted the entire house. Once again, all the tabletops and surfaces were covered with a visible layer of dust this morning. This is “the bush.” This is what it’s like.

We decided not to have breakfast this morning in order to head out earlier than usual. If we were hungry at some point along the way, we could always stop at the Mug & Bean in Lower Sabie for a bite to eat. 

The baby has grown considerably over these past few months. On occasion, she’ll rest in the bush with her mom and auntie forage for food.

As it turned out, we were so preoccupied searching for wildlife that food was the last thing on our minds. Instead, we were interested in what the wildlife was eating, grazing and hunting today.

Any ideas on the identity of this bird?

It proved to be a highly successful day. I’d hoped to post a few of the photos today, but after downloading the few hundreds on my laptop, I realized it would take hours to go through them, picking and choosing which we’d want to post. 

Tomorrow is another day, and first thing in the morning, I’ll begin working on the photos before I even start the new post. If all goes well, I should get the latest post uploaded close to our usual time, before noon in this part of the world.

The bird feeder is often surrounded by hornbills.

As we often do together at the end of the day when we set up the veranda for the evening’s festivities, we make a beverage, whether it’s iced tea, wine, or a cocktail, for Tom. Together we review the day’s photos deciding which to keep, which to delete.

I’m especially looking forward to tonight’s photos review when we encountered many notable sightings during our five hours in Kruger National Park.  Back “home” by 1400 hours (2:00 pm), there was ample time to do a quick wrap-up of today’s post with some less significant photos than we’ll share tomorrow.

Any suggestions on the identity of this bird?

As soon as we walked in the door, we changed into cooler clothing. The outdoor thermometer currently reads 36C (96.8F). Gee, is winter already over here in South Africa? Luckily, there’s a nice breeze, and we’re pretty comfortable outdoors where we’re situated at the moment.

Once I’m done here, I’ll head indoors to wrap up the prep for tonight’s dinner. I’d already cut the carrots and apples for the visitors, and yesterday we purchased three 40 kg (88 pounds) bags of pellets from Obaro in Komatipoort, which should be enough to get us through until we leave the 16th for our next visa run. 

Please check back tomorrow for our memorable day, one we’ve never posted while living in South Africa.

Enjoy your evening!

Photo from one year ago today, August 1, 2017:

Cloudy day, water and mountain scene in Las Vegas, Nevada, as we ended 67 days in the USA. For more details, please click here.