Day 42…Port of call…Darwin…Ten key facts about Darwin…

An overcast day in Darwin, Australia.

We have decided to stay on the ship today while we’re docked in Darwin, Australia. Having been here several times over the years, the sense of urgency to disembark and explore simply wasn’t there. We’d walked through the town on our last visit, slowly weaving along the waterfront, pausing in little patches of shade under the sparse trees, and feeling that familiar Darwin blend of heavy heat and easy charm. It’s a pleasant enough place, and one we’ve appreciated in the past, but today, neither of us felt compelled to push ourselves out into the sweltering conditions “just because.”

Declining the ship’s tours was easy. The popular “crocodile jumping” boat tour, a favorite among first-timers, held no appeal for us. After years spent in South Africa, where we’d quietly observed enormous crocodiles sunning themselves on the banks of the Crocodile River, creatures far more massive and awe-inspiring than the ones that leap for dangling meat in the tourist video, it’s hard to feel the same excitement for a staged spectacle. Those moments in the wild, when you’re close enough to feel the rumble of nature but still respectfully distant, set the bar impossibly high. And so, the idea of a choreographed thrill couldn’t compare.

As for the five or six-hour walking tours, they were out of the question from the start. Even in ideal weather, such long treks are more than I would attempt these days, especially after the lingering knee troubles. Add Darwin’s infamous heat and humidity, the kind that wraps around you like a wet blanket the moment you step off the gangway, and the decision became obvious. There’s no point in forcing ourselves to endure discomfort on a day when enjoying the quiet on the ship is much more appealing.

From our cabin balcony, we observed the pace of the day: enthusiastic passengers rushing ashore in the morning, full of energy and resolve, only to reappear a short time later looking wilted and dazed.

By noon, the ship felt unusually still, as if it too were trying to conserve its energy against the oppressive heat outside. Many guests who remained on board seemed to settle into the same slow, languid pace we had adopted, drifting between the coolness of the Promenade Cafe or a quiet corner in the library. There’s something peaceful about staying behind in port when so many passengers are ashore. Hallways become quiet, elevators arrive instantly, and the crew moves about with a more relaxed cadence, unburdened by the full intensity of a sea day.

Port of Darwin from the ship’s balcony.

In a way, these port days spent onboard often feel like stolen chapters of rest within an otherwise full itinerary. Travelers sometimes forget that it’s okay, necessary, even, to choose stillness over sightseeing. Long-term travel teaches you that not every destination has to be explored again and again, especially when you’ve already walked those streets, taken those photos, and made those memories.

So we’re here, contentedly tucked away, watching the day unfold from our floating home. And rather than feeling as though we missed something, we think the opposite, grateful for the quiet, for the comfort, and for the gentle reminder that sometimes the best choice is the simplest one.

Here are ten key facts about Darwin, Australia:
  1. Named After Charles Darwin (Who Never Visited): The city was named by explorer John Lort Stokes in honor of his former shipmate, naturalist Charles Darwin, though Charles himself never set foot in the area.
  2. Crocodile Capital: Darwin has more crocodiles than people, offering unique encounters at places like Crocosaurus Cove, where you can even swim with them.
  3. Cyclone Tracy Devastation: In 1974, Cyclone Tracy destroyed over 70% of the city, leading to a massive rebuilding effort and a new building code.
  4. World War II History: Darwin was a crucial Allied military base during WWII, heavily bombed by the Japanese.
  5. Unique Markets: The Mindil Beach Sunset Market is an iconic weekly event featuring food stalls, arts, and stunning sunsets.
  6. Harbor Size: Darwin Harbour is five times larger than Sydney Harbour.
  7. Multicultural Melting Pot: The city boasts over 60 nationalities, creating a vibrant Asian-influenced food scene and cultural mix.
  8. Beer Can Regatta: It hosts the world’s only Beer Can Regatta, where people build boats from beer cans to raise money for charity.
  9. Aboriginal Name & Culture: Its Indigenous name is Garramilla, and Aboriginal culture is a significant part of the city’s identity.
  10. Remote but Connected: Despite its remoteness from other Australian capitals, Darwin is a modern city well connected by air and offers a relaxed, tropical lifestyle. 

Be well.

Photo from ten years ago today, December 7, 2015:

View of the pool and patio from the veranda at our new holiday home in Pacific Harbour, Fiji. For more photos, please click here.

Day 41…Still out to sea…Heading to Australia…Immigration and many time changes…

Our photo in Australia in 2015…The natural bond between mom koala bears and their offspring is always precious to observe.

Tomorrow morning, the ship will ease its way into Darwin, Australia, gliding into yet another port on this long voyage. Even after all these years of travel, there’s always a slight flutter in my chest on arrival days, not out of excitement for disembarking, necessarily, but because of the choreography of logistics, immigration procedures, and the small rituals that seem to come with every country we enter.

Even with our e-visas for Australia already applied for and approved months ago, there was still the somewhat tedious, time-consuming process of immigration officers boarding the ship. They set up in the dining room on Deck 5, checking visas and passports, making sure all the papers lined up with whatever boxes needed ticking. And, of course, there was yet another form for us to fill out, because no border crossing ever seems complete without one more form.

While Tom headed down to the Promenade Café with our laptops to settle in for his usual morning routine, I stayed behind in the cabin a little longer, gathering my laundry for the wash-and-fold service. It’s one of those small luxuries of cruise life that I hesitate to admit I’ve come to depend on. Once everything was neatly bagged, I left it for our ever-reliable stateroom attendant and made my way to Deck 5. Fortunately, the immigration line moved quickly, filled with the usual mix of sleepy passengers, early-morning chatter, and the soft hum of people fishing through their bags for the required additional documentation.

Even with today’s clearance complete, this won’t be our last tango with immigration on this trip. Once we reach the airport on December 13, we’ll go through Australian immigration again, not to stay, but to head onward to New Zealand. For anyone who hasn’t traveled this part of the world, the geography and politics can be a little confusing. New Zealand may seem close enough to Australia on a map to assume some shared visa or easy transit. Still, it’s an entirely separate country with its own rules, its own immigration procedures, and its own long-established identity.

And then, in a twist that always makes me laugh at the sheer bureaucracy of travel, when we return to Australia two months later to visit Tasmania, we’ll go through Australian immigration yet again. Tasmania, of course, is part of Australia, a full-fledged state, not a separate nation. It’s an island state located south of the mainland, separated from the mainland by the Bass Strait, rich in rugged wilderness, unusual wildlife, and the charming capital city of Hobart. It always amuses me that entering Tasmania from abroad requires the same formalities as entering Sydney or Melbourne, even though one feels like a frontier of wilderness and the other like the heart of bustling civilization.

For travelers new to all of this, these processes can feel overwhelming. The lines, the passport checks, the obscure forms asking questions that seem oddly specific, are enough to make anyone’s head spin. But for us, after thirteen years of full-time world travel, it’s familiar territory. Not necessarily enjoyable, but predictable, and that predictability helps.

One thing that has been less predictable this past month is the sheer number of time zone changes we’ve endured while cruising. Tom, ever the numbers guy, counted ten in total, including last night’s puzzling 30-minute time zone change as we approached the Northern Territory. These half-hour oddities are always a bit jarring, as if time itself decided to shrug and say, “Why not split the difference?”

Darwin, the capital of the Northern Territory, sits up at the “Top End” of Australia, bordering the Timor Sea. We’ve visited several times over the years, and while it’s a pleasant enough city, the port area doesn’t offer much beyond shopping, most of which will be closed anyway since we arrive on a Sunday. With that in mind, we have no intention of getting off the ship tomorrow. Sometimes, staying aboard is the more peaceful choice, especially when we’ve already been there, done that.

Despite the logistical dance, the time changes, and the length of this voyage, 41 days so far, it’s a long stretch, even for me; we’re still enjoying ourselves. There’s something comforting about settling into shipboard life, finding small routines, and letting the world drift by outside the balcony door.

We’ll share more as we move through this final week aboard Royal Caribbean’s Voyager of the Seas. Until then, may your own travels, wherever they take you, be smooth and pleasant.

Be well.

Photo from ten years ago today, December 6, 2015:

We moved to another island in Fiji for our remaining month in the islands. This is the kitchen in the new vacation home in Pacific Harbour, Fiji. For more photos, please click here.

Day 9 circumnavigating the Australian continent…Too poop to pop!

The downtown area of Darwin with office buildings, restaurants and shopping.

“Sightings on the Ship in Australia”

Art sales and auctions attract a number of passengers during cruises. Happily, Tom always says, “We don’t have any walls!”

Today our ship is docked in the port of Darwin, Australia.  On April 24, 2016 while on another cruise, we visited Darwin, taking a bus into town to explore for a few hours. Mostly, it was about shopping, with the numerous shops lining the streets.

As a result, we stayed on the ship today along with about 25% of the other passengers who may have been to Darwin in the past and saw no reason to venture out on such a hot and humid day.  (It’s almost summer here in Darwin and the hot season begins early).

Here’s link #1 our visit to Darwin
Here’s link #2 our visit to Darwin

The port arrival building in Darwin.

After a poor night’s sleep, awakening at 3:00 am and falling back to sleep for only about 30 minutes, today I’m pooped, as sluggish as I can be. Having fun late into the evenings is taking its toll on me after many months of relative inactivity while my injury healed and staff had done all the cooking and cleaning.

Listen to me…complaining about having too much fun! Each morning when we’re tired from staying up late, I think, “Maybe tonight we’ll lay low, go to bed early, avoid the two glasses of wine.” 

Invariably, after we’d showered and dressed for the evening, we wander off to the Diamond Club Lounge at 5:00 pm. In a matter of minutes, we find ourselves engaged in interesting conversations with little motivation to end the evening early.

The ship is being fueled while in the port of Darwin.

We met two fabulous couples from the US, Cheryl and Stan from Texas and Lois and Tom from New Jersey, all within our age range, all lively and energetic travelers. 

These past several evenings, we’ve sat with them in the happy hour Diamond Lounge and last night we joined them and another couple for dinner in the Cascade dining room after the happy hour. What a delightful evening!

When they all decided to “call it a night” after dinner, Tom and I weren’t done and the evening continued for us for a few more hours.  We don’t seem to have trouble extending our evening well into the night; a little dancing, lots of laughing and leisurely strolls on the deck.

Some adventurous passengers decided to walk to downtown in the heat, returning to the ship exhausted and weary.

When I think back to all the nights over these past many months that I was pooped by 9 pm, struggling to stay awake, it feels great to be social and playful well into the evening. I’d begun to wonder if I had it in me or this late night lack of energy was a by-product of aging.  Apparently not.

Now I’ve mastered the ability to stay up later and enjoy a few glasses of wine. Now I need to master the ability to acquire a good night’s sleep after all of our fun to prepare me a similar repeat the following night.

Perhaps, today, after the movie at 1 pm, a nap will be in order. Never able to nap in the past, doesn’t mean I can’t learn to do it now.  You can “teach an old dog new tricks!”

Most of Australia’s 23 million citizens live close to the ocean since the barren interior, the Outback, is relatively uninhabitable.

Don’t forget to vote! We submitted our absentee ballots weeks ago and will carefully follow along tomorrow via the web.  

Photo from one year ago today, November 8, 2015:

One year ago, a Paul Gauguin cruise ship sailed by our view in Fiji.  For more photos, please click here.

We’ve arrived in Darwin…Soon, we’ll get off the ship to see this popular city…Photos!…Year ago photo…All here today!

Last night’s sunset from the ship.

We’re thrilled to be in Darwin today. We plan to get off the ship to tour the town after  having purchased round trip shuttle tickets at US $10, AU $13, per person.

This morning’s sunrise over Darwin, Australia.

Now, our big decision for the day is; do we go to town early and return to do the balance of today’s post, or do we head out early after the crowds getting off the ship thin out and to avoid the worst of the heat of the day? 

The interior of the casino where many passengers hand over large sums of cash to the ship.

Today’s high temp is expected to be 99F, 37C, with relatively high humidity. Apparently, it’s always hot in Darwin, a tropical climate. Both dressed in cool, casual clothing, we’re as prepared as we can be with plenty of Australian cash, insect repellent, sunglasses, and the camera on hand (including an extra battery).

There’s no doubt we’ll be back tomorrow with photos of the city, beloved by Aussies and tourists alike. A tender boat is not required here with a convenient pier to accommodate massive ships such as ours.

On several occasions, we attended movies and shows in La Scala Theatre.

We continue to have a great experience, dining, and chatting. It’s surprising how many passengers aboard this ship have had extensive travel experiences, many with much more than us over a period of many years.

For us, having traveled very little in our old lives due to my prior poor health, we have a lot of catching up to do. Even after 42 months we still have so much of this world left to see.

Cruise ships tend to have somewhat of an overly done, gaudy, often 1980’s theme, even when the ships are new or newly remodeled.

At this juncture, we continue to discuss where we’d like to visit in years to come. We’ll never run out of options.  It remains a matter of planning both financially and geographically what ultimately will work for us.

It’s funny how when we’re cruising, after hearing of countries and venues others have visited and loved, we open up our minds to a wider range of options for the future.

View of the Promenade Deck from a distant railing.

By the time we’ve completed the upcoming cruise to Antarctica on January 23, 2018 (21 months from now) we’ll have been to every continent on the Earth. This fact is mind-boggling. Who’d ever thought this was possible for us?

However many continents, countries, and cities we’ll have visited we’ll still have so much more to visit.  One could spend an entire lifetime and still have more awaiting their curiosity. 

Each sea day, Tom attends the Shed meeting in this bar, the Pig & Whistle located on the Promenade Deck, a street down the center of the ship.

It’s not as if we have a goal of any particular number of countries to visit or sites to see. We didn’t want to place that kind of pressure on our travels. For us, it is not about quantity and more about quality for those experiences in which we learn, thrive, and grow. One is never too old to acquire new knowledge, health providing.

As I began writing today, the answer became clear…finish today’s post and then take off for Darwin. The lines for disembarking the ship and boarding the shuttle will eventually thin out and soon we’ll be on our way.  There’s no point in standing in line for an hour.

With land at a distance, we captured this sunset shot.

Thanks to all of our readers for their patience over these past several days. Most likely, it will be equally difficult to post in the upcoming week with more sea days on the horizon until the cruise ends in Singapore and we fly to Bali. 

Once we’re settled in Bali in eight days we’ll be back to our routine of posting daily with new photos and of course, the photo from “one year ago.”

Have a beautiful day!  We plan to do the same!

Photo from one year ago today, April 23, 2015:

Driving down a road we hadn’t traveled, we followed the shore of the Hanalei River in Kauai. For more photos, please click here.