The food chain prevails…a lion killed this zebra. It’s a harsh reality of life in the wild.

“Sighting of the Day in the Bush”

Ms. Bushbuck, aka “Tom’s Girl,” with pellet crumbs on her nose. We can identify her by her uneven ears. Too cute.

Yesterday afternoon, after uploading the post, doing some laundry and hanging it to dry, and prepping everything for dinner, we decided to take off on our usual drive through Marloth Park.

The holidaymakers were in abundance on the bumpy dirt roads, especially along the fence between Marloth Park and Kruger National Park overlooking the Crocodile River.

When we embarked on our usual drive along the Crocodile River, we spotted this scene along with many others clamoring for space at the fence between Marloth Park and Kruger National Park.

The Crocodile River is a dangerous place with crocodiles lurking in the water, a wide array of venomous snakes, harmful insects, and of course, myriad apex predators, such as lions, leopards, cape buffalo, and hippos, all of which can cause great harm or fatal injuries to humans.

As a result, boats and humans are not allowed anywhere near the river, except in designated viewing locations in various places in Marloth Park and the vast Kruger National Park. When holidaymakers are here, these viewing locations are often packed with cars.

Many others watching this scene stayed at the viewing area for many hours, eventually spotting as many as six lions feasting on this female’s kill.

The advantage to the number of spectators is that if they find a sighting before we do, we can follow the crowd to see what they’ve spotted, a common practice for safari-goers and wildlife-watchers in national parks abundant with wildlife.

But even after seeing the people with their cameras, cell phones, and binoculars, it’s still not easy to find lions when their coloration blends in with the rocks and dry vegetation making them nearly impossible to see without some guidance.

Then, when we spotted elephants coming down the embankment to the river, we took off to take the following photos.

We’ve been fortunate to encounter spectators who are more than willing to help point out the scene with detailed descriptions while others may be at a loss scanning the terrain through camera lenses and binoculars. We are always thrilled to share the information with others.  

However, there are a select few who appear to want to keep the sightings to themselves. This makes no sense whatsoever. Why not share the wonder of nature with others for whom this may be a once-in-a-lifetime experience?

Could these three zebras be watching the scene of the kill when it may have been a  member of their family?

When we saw all the vehicles near the overlook at Two Trees, we had no doubt it had to do with lions. Portable chairs and tables, coolers (called chill boxes here) filled with beer and other drinks, and people of all ages had set up camp to watch the lions for which may have been for hours.

Had we desired to “camp out,” we certainly would have. But for us, as much as we’d prefer to get even more stunning photos, we shot what we could and were on our way.  

Each day, many mongooses have visited, piling atop one another for the raw scramble eggs Tom brings out to them. Now, after these months, they’ve come to know us and stare at us, making funny noises to show us how much they want the eggs. Mongooses are omnivores eating both plants and animals, with an infinity for snakes.  They are immune to snake venom.

We always have a vast array of scenes we’re seeking, and it isn’t always about lions, although we are intrigued with their behavior. But, we can spend the better part of an afternoon interacting with a band of mongooses while observing their adorable demeanor.  

These funny little rodent-like creatures are more intelligent than one might think. They already know how to beg for eggs, making funny noises while making eye contact with us. Known as possible carriers of rabies, we don’t get too close or touch them, never feeding them by hand. (Although, we’ve both been vaccinated for rabies, recently getting boosters).

Some nights, she faces this way, and other nights, she meets the wall.

Even the pesky helmeted guineafowls, of whom we have about 60 in residence, are more intelligent than one might think with their pea-sized brains. They love breaking up the pellets and eating them. They wait in the nearby bush, and when they hear us talking to other wildlife, they come running knowing full well, pellets are on the horizon.

It’s all memorable and meaningful, every single creature, including our new resident frog, who continues to appear at night on a light fixture on the veranda. Each time we see them in that spot, they are in various positions, and we can’t help but laugh.

Once we’re done here today, we’re off for another drive in the park and then heading to Daisy’s Den for more birdseed and outdoor repellent. We’ll be back with more tomorrow…you can count on that!

Have a day filled with wonder!

Photo from one year ago today, September 17, 2017:

This photo, taken from the veranda of our holiday home in Atenas, Costa Rica, before a big storm. For more photos, please click here.

When looking closely at this photo, we noticed a fourth lion behind the male, appearing to be another male.

“Sighting of the Day in the Bush”

This morning’s eight zebra visitors. Pellets were on the menu!

Prior to continuing with “What to bring for an African safari” we wanted to mention that today’s lion photos were taken yesterday when we ventured out around noon when Josiah was here to wash the veranda and tend to clean up in the garden.

A male lion walking on the bank of the Crocodile River.

He usually arrives around noon requiring we either move indoors or head out for the now daily drive. Rather than stay inside when often Martha is cleaning at the same time, leaving for a while makes more sense than sitting indoors which we seldom do.

From inside the house, we can’t see what’s transpiring in the garden and since we try to avoid missing the arrival of any visitors, staying outdoors makes no sense at all.  

This could be two females with this male lion or a female and a young male whose mane has yet to develop. There’s a male behind the male in front.

Even on the hottest of days, we stay outside from the time we’re up and dressed until we go inside to get ready for bed. People often ask why we get as many visitors as we do and the answer is simple. The wildlife sees us here all day and it’s irresistible to avoid passing out pellets and veg each time they stop by.

These elephants came down the steep embankment to the river while we were watching the lions, a sight we often encounter but always appreciate.

Unfortunately, the helmeted guineafowls are also here most of the day and they’ve become experts at snatching pellets for their own diet. When we’re trying to feed three little pigs or a dozen kudus, 60 guineafowls can certainly impede their feast.  

We provide some birdseed for the guineafowls but not enough to keep them from pecking for their usual food sources which include worms, grubs, and insects.  

Alternate view of the lions.

As is the case with all the wildlife, the food we provide is more of a snack than a meal. They cannot become totally dependent on us providing food to the point where they don’t continue to forage and graze for their usual food sources.

Here again, we spotted these not too far from “Two Trees” overlook.

After the morning’s activities and staff arrived to clean, we had considerable success at the river as shown in today’s photos. Again, for our new readers, we must mention these lion sightings are often very far from our vantage point on the Marloth Park side of the river.  

The fence between Marloth and Kruger Parks often interferes with the quality and clarity of the photos. When we get closer to the fence we can get better shots by shooting between the wires in the fence but this is very tricky and trying to hold the camera steady for the distant shots and, avoiding the metal barbed-wired fence makes it all the more difficult. We do the best we can.

A lion family near the Crocodile River, where mealtime isn’t a difficult challenge with many animals near the water.

Continuing with our suggestions for items to bring for safari here are the balance of those items we’ve found to be imperative. For yesterday’s post with clothing suggestions, please click here

1. Digital:  
a. Cameras: (many tourists use their smartphones and tablets for taking photos. We see them hanging out the windows of their vehicle while self-driving through Kruger. If taking photos is not your thing, this is fine. But if you want to get great shots, a camera is a must); including multiple camera batteries, chargers, tripod and plenty of storage (SD) cards if you don’t plan to download your photos daily (as we do).
b. Universal travel adapters and converters: suitable for Africa’s outlets which can vary from country to country.
c.  Cellphone: It is less expensive to purchase a SIM card in the country your visiting than buying a global SIM online. In each country, they are available everywhere such as supermarkets, petrol stations and more.  You can purchase airtime for calling and data for maps, etc. (data is expensive, calling is not). However, if you plan on making calls back to your home country we suggest you use Skype or another free service. You’ll pay a small fortune to call using the SIM card on the phone.
d.  Laptops, iPads, and other tablets: If you’re an avid user, feel free to bring them along in your carry-on luggage, and don’t forget plugs-in!
e.  Binoculars: If you prefer to use your camera’s viewfinder to spot your subjects that’s fine if you don’t already own a good pair of binoculars and don’t want to invest at this time. Otherwise, we’ve found using a camera and binoculars is an ideal match when for example in spotting today’s posted lions. I use the camera while Tom hunts via his binoculars.
e.  Wi-Fi: Most hotels and some bush camps provide free Wi-Fi for its guest but service can be sketchy in remote areas. If staying in a holiday/vacation home, verify with the manager/owner that free Wi-Fi is included and any usage limitations. We’ve been pleasantly surprised by the quality of the service here in Marloth Park and at this home.  For us, Wi-Fi is imperative. For you, it may not be as important during your safari adventure.

Something caught the eye of the two of them.

2.  Medication:  
a.  Prescriptions: Regardless of where you’ll be staying it’s a must to bring copies of your prescriptions and ample medication to last at least a week beyond your expected stay in the event of some unforeseen delays. Many common prescriptions can be purchased at local pharmacies in small numbers to get you through a crisis with a copy of your current prescription, although narcotic medications cannot be purchased in this manner. A local doctor must be seen. If you take a narcotic drug for medical purposes, only bring enough, along with a recent prescription, to last during your stay. A large supply can cause serious issues at the airport.
b.  Over the counter medications: If you’ll be in a remote area, it’s a good idea to bring the following: aspirin, Tylenol (call Paracetamol in Africa); allergy meds; insect bite creams (antihistamine and cortisone creams); sunscreen; band-aids; Visine or similar eye irritant solution (dusty conditions can cause eye irritation; contact lens solution/cleaner if applicable include replacement lens since dusty conditions may require a new pair of lenses); your usual favorite toiletries in small sizes suitable for your stay. If you won’t be in a remote area, feel comfortable bringing only those must-use items since all of the above are readily available at local pharmacies. 
c.  Insect repellent: Bring only a small amount of 35% or less DEET. Insect repellents are made for specific areas based on insects indigenous to the area you’ll be visiting. If you will be in a remote area, bring an ample supply of a DEET based product. Repellent must be worn day and night due to the possibility of malaria, and other diseases carried by insects. Reapply based on suggestions on the label.

Male lion resting near the other three lions.

See your local doctor as to any vaccinations you may need or the use of malaria prophylactics. We cannot make any recommendations in this regard. Only you and your doctor can make these decisions.

3.  Sunglasses: t’s wise to bring more than one pair if you’re prone to losing them. The bright sun of the savanna is often blinding and good sunglasses are a must. (Oddly, we rarely see South African wearing sunglasses but they must have adapted accordingly).

4.  Miscellaneous: In our own unique ways, we each have items we like to have with us when traveling. For you, this may be a favorite book, a Kindle, an item of clothing, a packaged food item, a special pillow or headrest.  It’s important to carefully access what makes you feel comfortable and yet is easily packable (check with your airline for weight restrictions). Africa is hot, dusty, and often windy and can be uncomfortable at times especially when bouncing around in a safari vehicle or car on dirt roads while on safari for extended periods. (If you have a serious medical condition, a safari may not be a wise choice but a place like Marloth Park can be ideal when the wildlife come to you while you lounge on a veranda at a holiday home or resort).

We’re posting various shots of the same scene for nuances.

Please feel free to contact s by email or comment here with questions regarding this topic (or others). We’re happy to be of assistance.  We continue to grow in our knowledge of life in Africa but we’re neophytes in comparison to many others. If you have any added suggestions we may have missed here, please let us know and we’ll update these posts.

Have a pleasing and fulfilling day!

Photo from one year ago today, September 13, 2017:

It’s fun to watch the hummingbirds stab their fine pointed beaks into the tiny holes of the feeder. To see the link for our easy recipe for the syrup, please click here.

Male lion checking his surroundings while he rests.

“Sighting of the Day in the Bush”

Lounging poolside.

As more and more travelers, especially retirees from all over the world, decide to fulfill a lifelong dream of going on a safari, tourism to Africa is increasing exponentially according to many online reports.  

Many come to Africa for its beautiful beaches and luxury resorts, for business  and surprisingly, only 15% actually come for tourism as shown here at this link, stating the following (see below photo):

Female lion at a further distance, hard to spot from afar.

“More than 30 million tourists visit Africa every year. Over half of the international arrivals are for business purposes and may partake in tourist activities as well, while 15% travel for pure tourism and 30% visit friends and family.”

As a result, many travelers struggle with what to pack to bring for, a let’s say a two-week visit to Africa, in order to go on safari. Of course, it depends on where you’re staying and the dress codes or suggestions based on your chosen bookings.

Female lion lounging.

While in Zambia, we discovered that the Royal Livingstone Victoria Falls Zambia Hotel by Anantara required male guests are required to sports coats to dinner in the upscale dining room and women must wear dressy clothing. During the day, the guests may be on safari and at night be prepared for a more formal dinner.  

This may sound appealing to those seeking luxury accommodations but for most travelers intent on an all-encompassing safari experience, a more casual and laid-back environment may be more appealing.

The long-distance across the Crocodile River made taking photos a challenge

There hasn’t been one occasion in almost 17 months in Africa (combined two visits, one in 2013-2014 and our current stay) have we ever felt underdressed or too casual for any dining establishment.

Here in Marloth Park and Kruger National Park, all restaurants and venues allow wearing appropriately styled shorts, shirts, and women’s tops as long as they are in good taste. Sandals and flip-flops are generally accepted as proper footwear.

Male lion soaking up the warm sun.

One must always consider the weather which can change dramatically in minutes whether on safari, sightseeing, shopping, and dining. High winds, rain, and temperatures can vary considerably and one must bring suitable attire for those occurrences.

With our friends Lois and Tom coming to stay with us for three weeks beginning October 9th, yesterday we sent them a lengthy email making suggestions as to what to bring for their stay in Marloth Park, keeping in mind most likely we won’t be visiting any fancy establishments in the near proximity. This is bush country. Fancy is not required here.

Male lion at rest.

However, if one is staying at a resort or upscale bushcamp it might be worth inquiring as to any special dress codes when booking your stay. Thus, today’s suggestions are based on a casual environment, not those staying in upscale luxury resorts that may include packing a few extra items suitable for specific events and occasions.

The question always arises as to whether or not to purchase insect repellent clothing. Cost is a big factor here since most of these items can be expensive, as much as ZAR 1506 (US $100) each. We opted to purchase shirts, pants, and hats before we came to Africa in 2013.  

Female lion lounging on the dry grass

It was a wise decision for our extended current stay and we’re still wearing those items on occasion today, especially when on safari or outdoors during the spring and summer mosquito season. In most cases, the special clothing will withstand 70 washing before losing its built-in repellent effectiveness. 

Also, travelers can purchase permethrin which can be added to existing clothing for protection for shorter periods, which can save considerable cost. When we decided to return to Africa for our current long-term stay we purchased a few new insect repellent items on eBay, brand-new with tags. The cost was at least half as much as retail and we’ve been thrilled with our items.  

Waterbucks are beautiful animals.

Clothing:
1.  Shirts, pants, shorts, socks, good walking shoes (tennis shoes are OK) or boots.  
2.  A cool cotton scarf to cover one’s face in the event of an insect swarm and/or high winds.
3.  Swimsuit, if sunbathing or swimming is desired.
4.  Water repellent jacket (weight depending on the time of year) and other such cover-ups in the event of cold weather.
5.  Hats to protect the face and neck from the sun and the elements. Some safari vehicles do not have a covered roof, although most do.  
(During a self-drive into Kruger National Park, for example, one is generally not allowed to exit their vehicle, making one’s attire is of less importance. But, being prepared in the event of an emergency should be a consideration.
6.  Clothing colors: Bright, colorful clothing is not suggested as it may attract insects. In keeping with the African theme, beige, tan, khaki, and white are most appropriate while on safari keeping you cool and less attractive to a wide array of insects.
7.  Cool casual clothing/shoes for everyday living, dining, lounging, and sleepwear, if worn.  

Impalas grazing on the bank of the Crocodile River.

Tomorrow, we’ll cover digital equipment needs, adapters and converters, toiletries and prescriptions, insect repellent, and miscellaneous items you may find useful.

Please check back for Part 2!

Photo from one year ago today, September 12, 2017:

Tom holding the broom (escoba) made of vegetation at El Toledo Coffee Tour. For more photos, please click here.