Back to my old ways…Inspired by Khaya Umdani, a look inside the cupboards…Food photos…Visitors…and more…

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Hand carved African decorator items are tastefully displayed in Khaya Umdani.
Vegetation native to South Africa grows freely without little care or maintenance.
There in the side yard, outside the master bedroom door, was this lovely Bird of Paradise that had bloomed since we arrived on Thursday. This morning we noticed a second bloom.
Less than 48 hours ago, we temporarily moved into this exquisite six-bedroom, five-bathroom home in Marloth Park, known as Khaya Umdami (houses are named in Africa and some other parts of the world), and instantly I fall back into my old patterns of thinking, “Shall we invite company for dinner?” and, “What shall I wear?” These are two questions that haven’t crossed my lips in a very long time. 
Besides, I don’t have enough clothing left to make what I wear ever an issue. I wear what is clean and available. Style is out the window!
When Louise and Danie renovated Khaya Umdami, this sixth bedroom was a part of the renovation. During the construction period, baby warthogs entered of their own volition and slept in the en suite bathroom’s shower at night. In the morning, they’d have to scoot them out. Thus, the name of this bedroom accessed via the veranda.

The warthog room as all of the other five bedrooms has its own unique décor and stone en suite bathroom. Amenities include its own refrigerator as shown in the far right.

In our old lives Tom often referred to my “linen napkin lifestyle” which obviously, I’ve let go since the beginning of our world travels. Not only have I let it go but I’ve found myself content with the dishtowel on my lap as we dine on the same 10 things we cook for dinner, over and over again. 
Nope, there were no hippos visiting this room. But, at night one can hear the gurgling sounds of the hippos emanated from the nearby Crocodile River.
Mosquito netting  as shown in the hippo room is commonly placed around beds in Africa. Although, after two months in Marloth Park we’ve yet to use the netting. Keeping the bedroom door closed during the day prevents insects from entering. Plus, the bedrooms have air conditioning, which further reduces the presence of mosquitoes.  I recall being concerned about mosquitoes when booking with Louise and Danie for Marloth Park. They haven’t been an issue, using a bit of repellent each day, even for me, a mosquito magnet.
This soaking tub in the hippo room is appealing after a bush braai (fabulous food!) which includes a game drive in the late afternoon, hosted by Louise and Danie. We know from personal experience!

My lifetime interest as a “foodie” has all but disappeared as we’ve discovered that special ingredients conducive to my way of eating become more and more difficult to find as we’ve traveled the world. A former dessert baking aficionado, I’ve since given up grains, starch, and sugar, leaving few options for desserts so we stick to nuts, nuts, and more nuts, which are prolific in Africa, some of the best in the world.

The Kingfisher room is named for the frequent sighting of the Kingfisher bird, often seen through the window of this room on a nearby tree. Our eyes are peeled in that direction.
The Kingfisher room has a bathroom with a stone shower a few steps outside the door which may be used as its own private bath or shared with guests while mulling on the main floor.

With planning last night’s dinner imminent, it didn’t take long for me to search the cupboards and drawers in Khaya Umdami in search of linen napkins, suddenly no longer content with a dishtowel in place of a neatly pressed linen napkin.

The well-stocked kitchen was calling me as I began searching through cabinets and drawers to enhance last night’s dinner place settings.
The only mess in this cupboard is our stuff on the middle shelf which we brought over from the smaller house.
The beautiful dinnerware made an attractive place setting possible for our dinner.
This organized cupboard holds a wide array of wine and beverage glasses.
With little access to plastic containers for over a year, this tidy cupboard held particular appeal.
More pots, pans, and baking and cooking supplies, more than we’ve had anywhere we’ve lived since leaving the US. Look! There are even two graters!

So, last night, we grilled the two chickens we’d brought with us on the spit of the traditional, non-braai, gas grill so readily familiar to us for a wonderful nostalgic dinner on cloth placemats with linen napkins, proper place settings and the peculiar knowledge that here in Khaya Umdami we need not even wash our own dishes, leaving them for household staff to handle the next day. How decadent!

Our simple place setting fulfilled all of my expectations for a dinner outdoors last night. 
There is was our first outdoor grilled dinner since leaving the US. None of our past vacation/holiday homes had outdoor grills that we’ve found suitable. This was a rare treat. Wrapped in foil on the side grate is the chicken gizzards and livers which I’ll eat with tonight’s repeat dinner. Tom only eats white meat and I like dark meat, making a whole chicken perfect for us. Zeff cleaned it this morning and, did all the dishes! Oh, good grief!
This was Tom’s plate of food.  Mine was identical except piled high with the various bones and dark meat parts. We’d cooked the chickens for 90 minutes, on high for the first 20 minutes, and on low for the remaining time. The chicken was moist and delicious. As usual, we had our favorite low carb, sugar-free coleslaw, a daily staple which we love.

Soon, we’ll return to the smaller house, and once again, we’ll return to using dishtowels as a linen napkin and to my bigger concerns expressed to Tom dozens of times each day, “Did you hear something?” or, “Did you see something?” Of course, these questions revolve around our intense interest in seeing more wildlife, any wildlife actually! Pigs, striped horses, or poop rolling beetles! We love them all!

This was a first for us, a mom warthog with long brown hair. She was kneeling to eat after I tossed some pellets. Their knees are particularly calloused so they can easily kneel when eating. Their snouts make it difficult for them to eat fully standing.

For now, as we languish in this special property, we revel in its stories, its amenities, it’s a magical way of being incorporated into the bush, its lush vegetation and, its wildlife, offering a cocoon of comfort and wonder that only Marloth Park, South Africa can offer.

A young male impala checked us out before venturing to Khaya Umdami‘s private watering hole.

Yesterday afternoon, Danie stopped by offering that he and Louise teach us to braai on the open wood fire here at Khaya Umdami, the true South African way, a lesson we must learn before departing in 27 days. We heartily agreed with considerable enthusiasm and an abundance of appreciation for yet another amazing experience in the bush.

We held our breath waiting for him to take a drink, not to disappoint.

Ha! It looks as if company may be coming for dinner after all!  Get out the linen napkins! And, if only for a little while, take me back to my linen napkin ways!

Note Tomorrow, the unbelievable master bedroom befitting a king and queen, the “outdoor” bedroom, and more wildlife photos we’ve taken in the past few days at Khaya Umdami.  Our driver, Okee Dokee, is out of town for the weekend. But, we’re so content that we have little desire to leave.

“Small Things,” all new, a world of miniature vegetation and wildlife…More small creatures tomorrow…

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It’s hard to believe that this is actually a flower on the Sickle Bush which we found in our garden a month ago. No longer do we see them “blooming” but we were grateful to have seen these two flowers.
Today, we’ll first share the “Small Things” in the vegetation category including some “Small Things” wildlife photos as you scroll down. Tomorrow, we’ll continue the most exciting of the all-new “Small Things,” wildlife photos. Please check back.
At first, I didn’t think these flowers on the Sickle Bush were real!

Since our first “Small Things” post on December 13, 2013, we’ve continued to search for wildlife and vegetation of the minuscule variety. With much excitement, we share these with you today, some beautiful, others frightening, and some merely curious.

After searching through no less than 1000 photos I could not find the name of this flower. If you look closely it appears to have a face toward the upper center. If anyone is aware of the name of this flower, please write.

There’s a miniature world that the human eye cannot see. If only we had access to the necessary equipment to explore that world freely. Perhaps, in time, technology will provide us with affordable digital equipment for the average user to see the smallest forms of life.

From research online, I believe this is a variety of the Aloe plant.
All of the photos we’ve posted here today were taken in our garden. Had I been brave enough to venture further into the dense bush without a trail, I’m certain I’d have found many more “Small Things” of interest. These were found in a short distance into the bush.
 Although I looked at hundreds of blue wildflowers growing in South Africa, here again, I wasn’t able to find the name of this wildflower.
As I take this walk often several times a day, my first consideration is to keep a watchful eye for snakes that may slither across the road. Once I feel assured that there are no snakes in the immediate area, I am able to stop to head into the tall grass to take photos.
These lilac puffs are gone now as of a month ago when summer arrived.  Now, that the heat of summer is here there are few flowers.
These past days, we had a considerable amount of much needed rain. This morning as we sit on the veranda, the sun peeked out shooting up the temperature in a dense layer of humidity.
 The simplest wild daisy stands out in the bush.

The heat from the single mug of coffee I have each morning, makes me feel all the hotter. But, at the moment we’re inclined to stay outside. Our current visitors consist of a mom and three fast-growing baby warthogs, a flock of 12 Helmeted Guinea-Fowl, another mom and four baby warthogs, all regulars. They co-exist rather well, as we often giggle over their innocuous interactions.

 This small aloe plant intrigued us with it’s “eye” in the center.

In the pouring rain on Sunday, the Helmeted Guinea-Fowl stopped by much to our surprise. Most of the wildlife stay undercover during severe weather. Their dripping wet blue faces and matted feathers elicited a sad moan from me. 

 Ms. Turtle scooting across the edge of the driveway. We’ve spotted her in the same general area of the garden on several occasions.

We humans are fortunate that we have the brain size to have overcome a life of living in the bush like animals. How we’ve evolved! Sadly, in the process of our evolution we’ve managed to reduce the available habitat for wildlife to continue to thrive. I could easily get out my soapbox on that topic but for today, I’ll remain quiet.

 Yikes!  What in the world is this?  We saw it while on the upstairs veranda on a nearby tree.
Watching it for several days without change, one day it was gone. Notice the tufts of hair growing
along some of the edges.

Today is an unusual day. At noon, Okee Dokee will pick me up for the almost half-hour drive to Komatipoort to purchase more data and a few odds and ends at the grocery store. This will be the longest time Tom and I have been apart since we left Minnesota almost fifteen months ago.

Gee…what will he do while I’m away?

An interesting frequent visitor..Too hot to handle…Kevin came to call…

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Fairly frequent visitors, the Helmeted Guinea-fowl family stopped by yesterday afternoon. Check out the “fluff” around the neck. What a gorgeous shade of blue, not often seen in nature.

Perhaps, it’s the heat of summer. This is comparable to July above the equator. The heat and humidity are unbearable, especially in the afternoon. The flies are equally annoying. Our visitor population is down considerably in the heat when wildlife tends to stay undercover during the day hiding in the bush to stay cool.

On either side of the face are two hanging red-tipped hanging pieces of skin. When the Helmeted Guinea-fowl moves about, these swing around as would a pair of dangling earrings.

It’s early morning now. Our hot cup of coffee adds to the sweating, causing our skin to glisten with perspiration.  Having lathered myself with repellent each morning after a shower, I notice the accumulation of the white lotion and sweat in the crook of my arms no more than 10 minutes after getting situated on the veranda.

The adorable chicks are growing fast, but won’t exhibit signs of the blue skin on the heads for many more months to come. They run very fast, following the parents when they leave, who mate for life, unlike many of the animals.

This morning there will be no long walk down our driveway to the road, leaving a trail of pellets. The heat of the sun is more than I can handle this morning, especially when the flies swarm me as I walk down the path. I don’t think we’ll last long outside today. 

Yesterday morning we left out shrimp skin and tails for the carnivorous monitor lizard along with a raw egg.  This Helmeted Guinea-fowl checked them out but had no interest. Later in the day, I peeked out the door to find the monitor lizard eating the last of our offerings. But, she rapidly slithered away before I could get the camera. We’d seen her digging in the dirt by the braai as we were leaving for our road trip. Most likely, she was making a hole for her eggs, which won’t hatch for up to 300 days after fertilization.

As for inside, there is only one room, beside the two-bedroom that has AC where we can cool off, the upstairs loft. With the high vaulted thatched ceiling, it never cools down much.  But, it does cool down enough to make it bearable.

We counted eight adults and three babies Helmeted Guinea-fowl, two of which weren’t visible in this photo. We can’t freely move around when they visit since they will run off, and I mean RUN! They are fast on their feet! 

On days such as these, I remind myself of Kenya with no AC in the bedrooms, no living room to escape to, in order to cool off. I clamp my mouth shut and as always, we don’t complain. What’s the point?

This morning, I looked up to see Kevin, the largest kudu in Marloth Park, named by its residents, staring at us while standing by the braai. We couldn’t have been more thrilled. Not easily intimidated, we were able to freely move around the veranda to watch him and take photos. 

We still love it here. But, if we come back someday, it will be in their winter when it’s cool, almost every day. In the winter with no leaves on the trees, it’s easier to see the wildlife through the now dense bush. During that period the animals live off of the roots, digging into the hard soil for morsels of vegetation. I’m sure that the pellets are more appreciated during that time, than now, when their natural habitat is lush with food.

Kevin showed no interest in the mineral lick after a warthog rubbed himself all over it, as shown in the video we posted yesterday.

As we sit outside writing here, a welcome breeze wafts our way from time to time, sometimes hot, others cool.  But the stillness predominates. And, we sweat.

Kevin moved so close, to the railing on the veranda we had to back up to avoid being hit with his massive antlers.

On days such as today, we usually last outdoors until noon or later, packing up our laptops, power cords, pellet containers, repellent, mugs, phone  and camera. We can’t leave anything outdoors due to the monkeys. 

Kudus seem to seek out good photo opportunities.

In our old lives, we never sat outdoors on a 100F day, 38 C. Life is different now. We’re more tolerant, curious, and in awe of our surroundings. How we’ve changed!

Kevin is taller than the roof of the carport which lowest point is considerably taller than Tom’s reach.

So, of all things, just now, Kevin, the largest of the Kudus in Marloth Park, whom we’ve longed to visit us, has appeared in our garden. Lumbering his long legs through the braai (barbecue) area, stepping on the hose Tom has filling the pool, and cutting off the water supply momentarily, he makes his way toward us, totally fearless of our presence. Wow! Kevin!  

He stayed around us for 20 minutes or so and then wandered off.  A moment later a shy duiker appeared, one then two, now three.

One last pose before heading on his way.

Taking photos, enjoying their presence, makes our hearts sing. So what if we’re sweating. It’s all worth it!

Although we had three duikers in the garden, we were unable to get a shot of them together. They’re extremely shy requiring us to stay seated on the veranda.

Oh, oh. One of our regular warthog families of four has arrived. I’d better go say “hi” and get some pellets.

Wrapping up our trip to Blyde River Canyon Lodge…A treasured memory…

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The exquisite view from our room at the Blyde River Canyon Lodge, Hoedspruit, South Africa, where we stayed for three nights while we toured the many sites in the area.

It wasn’t an easy decision to leave Marloth Park for three days. One, we’re already paying for one home and to leave it empty to pay for another place to stay, makes us think twice. Two, I was afraid we’d miss visitors while we were away. (Tom didn’t quite feel the same – a guy thing).

The veranda and casual dining area in the Blyde River Canyon Lodge overlooks the pool and the expansive grounds.

However, if we had a permanent home, we’d occasionally take a three or more day trip out of town and the costs associated with owning the home would continue in our absence.

The door to our first floor guest room was conveniently located near the lounge, veranda and dining area.

What if the giraffes came to visit while we were away, maybe 12 of them as in the first time they wandered into our yard on a sunny morning in December? What if the wildebeests visited for the mineral lick, yet to occur in these almost past two months that we’ve been here?  What if Clive, our favorite Ostrich, lumbered down the driveway, proud and determined, while we were away?

We’d hope for time to use the pool, but our busy schedule made it difficult.

If any of these events occurred in our absence, we’d have never known. Yes, I did wander up and down our long driveway after returning on Saturday checking for animal tracks and piles of poop. There was plenty of both. 

The manicured grounds were a change after living in the bush these past almost two months.

Leaving Marloth Park wasn’t easy. The only way I could lessen my apprehension was to stay in an extraordinary place surrounded by nature. Blyde River Canyon Lodge filled the bill. We couldn’t have been more pleased. Need I say that we researched our option for several days?

On the grounds at the Blyde River Canyon Lodge, as a part of the lodge, is a separate luxury two-story guest cottage with a full kitchen, two bedrooms, large living area and inviting décor.

Based on recommendations from the wonderful locals, we met, especially our friends Piet and Hettie, the Panorama Route was the thing to see, not too far away, a pleasant mountain drive with incredible scenery.

The lounge in the lodge was tastefully decorated with the finest furnishings and accessories.
Alternate view of the lounge area. There’s a small bar to the far left of this area where a wide array of drinks and mixes are available. 

With an abundance of attractions in the area we chose those most appealing to us as shown here over the past several days: the Moholoholo Wildlife Rehabilitation Centre, the Blyde River Canyon boat ride and a visit to the Elephant Sanctuary, and finally, the Panorama Route, leaving us busy and out and about each of the three days that we stayed at the Blyde River Canyon Lodge.

This was our table for all of our meals, breakfast (included) and dinner at the end of each of our three nights at the lodge. We had no issue with insects in the morning or evening. Notice the zebras visitors who stopped by daily. It was fun to see them racing through the huge expanse of lawn as shown in the background.

Another day to stay at the lodge would have been ideal. But, we had to return the little pink car on the return trip to Marloth Park via the airport in Nelspruit. (More on that frustrating story later). 

This was a young Vervet Monkey (photo from afar) that we’d see playing together at dusk.

We had little time to enjoy the beauty of the lodge’s surroundings. Much to our pleasure, there were visitors stopping by early in the morning and again late in the day, the few times that we were able to be at the lodge, savoring every moment.

The huge gnarly trees created the perfect amount of shade for lounging comfortably outdoors on hot sunny days. 

As for the Blyde River Canyon Lodge, we found it to be the perfect choice for us, conveniently located to everything we wanted to see, affordable, and most of all, absolutely enchanting.

Who needs a lawnmower when Zebras cleanly dine on the grass?

The service was “over-the-top” by every staff member. The attention we received from the owner Vicky and her assistant Portia was appreciated and unexpected. 

A zebra was scratching on the tree while impalas leaped through the air with the ample open spaces.

This was the first time we’d seen zebras mating when all that have visited us in Marloth Park have been males. The zebras courtship rituals resulted in animated playfulness that we found entertaining as they chased and ran through the open spaces on the grounds.

The food at both the included breakfast and reasonably priced dinner served outdoors, couldn’t have been more suitable for my way of eating and to our mutual liking, freshly prepared with the finest of ingredients. The chef didn’t hesitate to meet with me to discuss my dietary restrictions in order to prepare my food accordingly.

At each meal, the table was set utilizing a new color scheme.  We never saw the same place setting twice during our six meals at the lodge.
At each dinner, a starter, an entrée, and a dessert were served. The chef made this special starter for me when the starter for the evening wasn’t conducive to my restrictive diet. It was so delicious I asked for it the second night to which they complied.

Tom splurged and enjoyed this delicious Berry Compote Panna Cotta. We were having such a fabulous time at dinner, I failed to take photos of our entrees, all of which were wonderful.

Tom usually doesn’t care for cheesecake, but he managed to get this down! I must admit, this one was hard for me to resist which I did without even a taste.

Our room, although a basic hotel room, was situated on the ground floor, close to the lounge area and outdoor seating, was spotless and in excellent condition with no signs of wear and tear. The bed and covers were comfortable with the air conditioning working perfectly for a good night’s sleep. The shower had excellent water pressure, something we recall from a life long ago.

As the Vervet Monkeys played on the lawn and in the trees, this young impala stood back, occasionally joining in the play.

Unfortunately, I didn’t sleep well while at the lodge. I was so excited to get outdoors, awaking each day at 4:00 am waiting for the sun to rise. Also, with a slow WiFi signal, typical for the area with the surrounding mountains, I was chomping at the bit to post our stories and photos which had to be accomplished in the early morning and finished in the evening.

The Vervet Monkey on the right was no larger than the size of a small cat. The smaller, on the left, could easily have fit into the palm of one’s hand. 

Typical for me on our “side holidays,” I slept poorly, fearful of missing something. Yes, I know. It’s a flaw of mine, one of many, driven by a brain that just won’t shut off when I’m having fun. It’s during the quiet, less stimulating times that I can sleep for seven hours.

The simplest of naturally occurring vegetation, growing next to a piece of driftwood, created a pleasant scene.

Our total cost for three-night stay at the Blyde River Canyon Lodge including dinners, drinks, and tips was US $582.27, ZAR $6200. The total cost of the lodge and the cost of the fees for the stated activities was US $886.42, ZAR $9438.50, also including gas/petrol to and from the area.

More natural vegetation highlighted the grounds.

Although this side trip wasn’t a bargain, we definitely felt that the quality of the experience was well worth the cost.  In our old lives, if we’d gone to Duluth, Minnesota, USA for three nights, we’d certainly have spent a comparable amount if including the cost of a four-star hotel, several attractions, meals, drinks, and gas/petrol.

Although a quaint, intimate facility, the Blyde River Canyon Lodge, with seven guest rooms plus the private luxury cottage, was offering the utmost amenities, service, and food, commensurate with a much larger high-end resort.

The private stand alone cottage was charming and well appointed.

The spacious living area and kitchen in the private cottage.

The master bedroom in the private cottage.

The second bedroom in the private cottage.

The master bath in the private cottage.

The view from the private cottage from the living room.

Tomorrow, we’ll share the frustrating story of the pink rental car which, by the way, we no longer have in our possession, or any vehicle for that matter and… What we’re doing for transportation over the remaining 38 days we’re living in Marloth Park. Plus, we have more new unseen photos to share.

Please stop back.

More up close and personal at another wildlife rehab facility in Hoedspruit…Lions, vultures, cheetah and more! Crazy photo of Tom!

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Tom volunteered to feed the vultures raw meat.  He wore a leather sleeve on his right arm from fingertips to shoulder. As soon as our guide put the raw meat into his hand, several vultures flew at him to grab it, leaving two to fight over it. Exciting, to say the least!

Moholoholo Wildlife Rehabilitation Centre, one of several in South Africa was definitely on our “to do” list when we spent three days in the nearby Blyde River Canyon, beginning on Wednesday, returning to Marloth Park on Saturday.

This handsome cheetah is recovering from poisoning, as the result of an attempt to kill him for his hide will be unable to return to the wild, due to the risk of being killed by his own species. He’s been made an “ambassador” to represent the rehab center in saving his and other species from becoming endangered.  Watching him through the electrified fencing, we were anxious to get inside and “hands-on.”
Both Tom and I were anxious to touch him. If we had any apprehension, which we didn’t the fact that he was “purring” welcomed our touch.  Wow!
We each had a turn at touching his tail after being warned not to pet his head.
The conscientious guide ensured our safety.  But, we had no fear.

We’d anticipated seeing an array of injured wildlife in various stages of healing. Little did we anticipate the education we’d receive about the dwindling of natural wildlife habitats in South Africa and all of Africa due to man’s intervention. It is down from 100% a century ago, to approximately 10% today.  Where is the wildlife able to survive?

This mating pair of honey badgers was kept together when one was injured.  It was delightful to watch their playful antics. In the wild, they are dangerous animals known to be able to rip the genitalia from any animal in a single bite. Yikes.

We were made further aware of the heartbreaking loss of rhinos (45 killed in Kruger National Park in the past three weeks) as well as elephants and the curious pangolin through their senseless slaughter by poachers for the purpose of selling them to religious zealots who wrongfully believe that their tusks and hides have mystical powers (the scales on the Pangolin sell for ZAR $1087, $100 each).

The small serval is a vicious hunter in the wild. We were not allowed inside her habitat.

The Moholoholo Wildlife Rehabilitation Centre’s mission is to not only medically treat injured, ill, or poisoned wildlife but, to prepare them to return to the wild in their natural habitat.

After we were allowed inside the vulture habitat, it was exciting to interact with them.
This adorable, yet  deadly eagle was more than willing to lower his head for me to pet her.

We learned that for some of the animals, returning to their familiar habitat is a certain death sentence. Thus, in time, many are returned to other areas, where they can begin anew. 

The birds of prey were beautiful up close.  Seeing them gave us an entirely new perspective of their behavior, their importance to the environment, their anatomy, and the colorful plumage, vultures, all species are being poisoned for their heart, liver, brain, and other internal organs. The fanatics believe that these organs will improve their ability to see into the future, based on the acuity of the Vulture’s vision.
The exquisite plumage on these two vultures was a complete surprise.

 

This vulture seemed a little shy as compared to the others. He bent his head when I approached to take his photo.
This is our usual perception of a vulture. This particular bird was involved in the scuffle for the piece of meat in Tom’s hand. Each Vulture species had a particular neck and body commensurate with which part of the body of their prey that they are known to eat. The longest neck vultures eat the internal organs while those with shorter necks go after the flesh.

In extreme cases, when their are virtually no options for survival in the wild, as in the case of an animal having lost a limb, a wing, or the ability to eat and thrive, they are kept in the facility as “ambassadors” aiding in the center’s goals of creating awareness for the preservation of the species. The loving attention and care for these various “ambassadors” were heartwarming.

We weren’t allowed to get face to face with this Vulture.  He offers tourists a stick with the appearance of being generous when in reality, if the gift is accepted through the fence, he’ll bite their fingers off!
Vulture headshot, one of my favorite vulture photos. He seemed to pose for me when I took this without zoom while standing directly in front of him. Our guide told us to move around frequently while in the vulture area. They eat “dead” meat, except for the above red and orange Vulture above who likes human fingers.

After the meaningful educational session that we experienced in a classroom environment, we were excited to get the opportunity to see the animals in person. 

This male lion leisurely recovering walked our way as we approached the electrified fence. I was able to take this photo through an open small space in the fence, using a bit of zoom. Of course, we weren’t allowed inside his area.

As he approached us, he seemed gentle and sweet.  We were warned that he is neither.

Without a doubt, it was hard to witness some of the animal’s injuries. On the other hand, it was comforting to see how each species was treated with such care, the natural habitat created for them, eating food they’d hunt or forage in the wild, and housed in a manner conducive to their environmental needs. 

Our guide explained that male Lions are the laziest animals on the planet.  They watch the female lion or other animals catch their prey and then he steals it away with his massive strength. While in the Maasai Mara on safari in October 2013, we witnessed this behavior when we saw a lion steal from a female hoping to feed her cubs. Not unlike humans, through past generations; women cooked, men ate. 

The vast size of Kruger National Park is the source of many of the injured and ill animals. As soon as the Moholoholo Wildlife Rehabilitation Centre is notified of an injured animal, they initiate a process that will get the animal to the center as quickly as possible with the least amount of harm.  Imagine, capturing an injured lion to transport it, often by plane or helicopter with medical staff on board, to the center to return it to health. We were impressed.

This female lion showed little interest in our visit. She was more interested in the bucket of raw meat our guide had in his hands.

Our photos here will illustrate how special this experience was for both of us. Once again, we had a new perspective of the life cycle of many species and the dedication of many people to ensure the various forms of wildlife survive and not become yet another endangered species.

Other wildlife meandered the open areas of the rehab center, which is located in the bush including many vultures, eagles, impalas, and other species.  This young impala was enjoying quiet time in the shade.

For us, traveling the world is not about luxuriating in comfort and convenience, although at times, such as the three glorious nights we spent at the Blyde River Canyon Lodge, we were exquisitely comfortable and at ease. 

The opportunity to expand our horizons with a greater understanding of the world around us, through the eyes of those that came before us, makes our travels all the more rich and meaningful.

Tomorrow, we’ll be back with photos and stories of our boat ride on Thursday on the Blyde River. Thank you for sharing in our ongoing adventures.

The majestic elephant… Surprising facts…. Up close and personal… Interacting at a sanctuary…

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We ducked our heads under Casper’s chin. Our faces hurt from smiling the entire time we were with the two Elephants at the Elephant Sanctuary. After our experiences the prior day in Kruger National Park, learning more about these massive animals was timely.

After the 5½ hour extraordinary experience in Kruger National Park, mostly with the elephants, it was a perfect segue to stop to the Elephant Sanctuary in the town of Hazyview before heading to the Blyde River Canyon Lodge, located near the town of Hoedspruit South Africa.

Every aspect of the Elephant anatomy was perfected created to be suitable for their massive size and environment. In many ways, their anatomical structure was not unlike humans. Males don’t mature for mating until 25 years old or more. They must develop size and stature in order to defend themselves in the pursuit of the female. Who knew?

Having seen so many elephants in Kruger National Park, we had numerous questions as to their behavior and this was the perfect place to have all of them answered.

I’d never held an elephant’s trunk. The trunk has nostrils and is used as straw or sucking water to be placed into the mouth. A valve keeps the water in place until released into the mouth.
Tom fed Casper a handful of pellets by dropping them into the opening in his trunk. He then placed them into his mouth. The trunk is used for breathing, placing food and water into his mouth, and as an appendage for lifting and holding. The Elephant is unable to breathe through his mouth.

Without a reservation for the Elephant Sanctuary, it was ironic that we arrived 10 minutes before the group tour was to begin, one of only two in the afternoons. Quickly paying a minimal fee, we entered the facility entranced by the exquisite vegetation, cleanliness, and organization of the staff and the grounds.

We both had an opportunity to take our elephant for a walk. Tom walked with Casper, the larger of the two while I walked with Gita, another male. Seventy percent of the elephant’s massive weight is supported by the front two legs. The back legs are for balancing. 

With many misconceptions about elephant behavior, the first step in the educational hands-on event was a classroom-like setting, outdoors, of course, to become familiarized not only with elephant behavior but also with their anatomy.  

Our Elephants “kissed” our necks. (My kissing photo was too blurry to post). They were “slurpy” kisses leaving mud and grit on our necks. But, we didn’t care. The female head of a herd of elephants is called the “Matriarch.” She will manage the mating of the younger females who give birth no more often than once every five years.

Our well versed and articulate guide didn’t waste a minute explaining every aspect of their anatomical structure, internal and sexual organs, mating rituals, the birthing process, and the growth and maturity cycles, all of which proved to be much different than we’d expected.

Tom, touching Casper’s tongue and mouth. Whoever does this? Casper seemed quite content with all of the attention. Large congregations of elephants occur more frequently in Africa. The purpose of the family units to feed, nurture, and protect the babies. This was evident in our photos of the huge number of elephants crossing the road in Kruger Park as shown in yesterday’s post.

Earlier in the day while in Kruger Park, encountering dozens of elephants crossing the road, we had the misconception that a lead male was included in the group of moms and babies when in fact it was a huge female, often the leader of the family, the matriarch. 

My elephant, Gita, a smaller male, hung onto Casper’s tail as they walked in front of us.

Once the male impregnates the female, he is no longer a part of the “family.” He’ll wander off to join with other males, to eat, to grow, and to fight for mating purposes. He has none of the nurturing instincts of the female. In a way, that knowledge was disappointing. We often have the perception that many animals mate for life and that’s simply not the case for a majority of species.

Tom touched the coarse pad of Casper’s foot. I had done the same. We both were impressed by the structure of the elephants, every aspect of their bodies having a distinct purpose.

After our “lessons” we walked through the dense jungle along a dirt path to an open area with benches where we would soon get up close and personal with two rescued elephants. With several locations in various parts of South Africa, the objective of the Elephant Sanctuary is to rescue elephants.  

Once returned to health and well being, they serve as ambassadors of education to inform the public of the need to respect and preserve their dwindling wildlife habitat throughout Africa, all due to man’s invasion of their space.  

The two elephants with whom we interacted, could easily return to the wild.  They aren’t caged or housed in any manner. But they have chosen the safety of this lush territory, eating off the land and enjoying the interaction with the people they’ve come to know and love. It was enchanting to be a part of this educational and interactive opportunity.

Interacting with elephants taught us so much about their behavior, their anatomy, and their life cycle proving that we had many misconceptions when observing them in the wild. Bulls will mate with as many as 30 females in a mating season.

As these photos so well tell the story of our time at the Elephant Sanctuary, we can only add that we wish we’d have had the knowledge we acquired in those few hours when we encountered the Elephants in Kruger National Park. We’d have had an entirely different perspective.

But then again, I imagine we’ll see the magnificent creatures another time before we leave South Africa. We hope so.

Note: Tonight, we’ll be back in Marloth Park having ended our three day holiday. The next story in this sequence to be posted on Sunday will be our visit to the Moholoholo Wildlife Rehabilitation Centre with more up close and personal photos of lions and other wildlife rescued when injured, poisoned, or suffering from an illness, including a photo of Tom being bombarded by two enormous vultures while trying to feed one of them a piece of raw meat! Unreal.

Thirty to forty crossing the road… Breathtaking Kruger Park experience…Later in the day, we visited the Elephant Sanctuary…More photos in tomorrow’s post.

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Wow! They kept coming and coming until there were 30 to 40 elephants crossing and waiting to cross the road. They continued in a steady stream. What a sight!
It’s the end of our first 36 hours since leaving Marloth Park. Here’s what we’ve done so far:
  • 5.5 hours on a self-drive safari through Kruger National Park 
  • 2 hours at the Elephant Sanctuary in Hazyview on an interactive experience with elephants, walking, feeding, and touching the elephants (photos in next post)
  • 2-hour boat trip in the Blyde River Canyon, the third-largest canyon in the world where two rivers come together, the Blyde River and the Treur River
  • 2-hour tour of the renowned Moholoholo Wildlife Rehabilitation Centre with an opportunity to touch and experience rehabilitating wildlife
The elephant herd crossed the road as more waited in the wings to do the same.
As shown, the babies are kept tight in the center of the herd as they make their way across the road.
Although the park wasn’t crowded, the word must have got out about the elephants on the road when suddenly cars appeared out of nowhere. We continued to stay back and out of their way, especially with the babies in tow.
 
This kudu was munching on a hill, stopping only to look at us as we drove by.
Back at the exquisite Blyde River Canyon Lodge for the evening, we were reeling from the above experiences, energized more than tired from the hours of standing and walking while we learned so much.
Need I say that in these 36 hours we’ve taken no less than 300 photos? And, as we sit here now on the veranda at the lodge at 6:00 pm on Thursday evening, there are impalas, vervet monkeys, and zebras playing, eating, and wandering about on the beautiful grounds.

Finally, the sun came out today, and weather providing tomorrow we’ll take off on yet another day of exploration as we embark on the popular Panorama Route, returning to the Blyde River Canyon Lodge for our final night.  

Saturday, we’ll drive back toward Marloth Park, stopping at the Mpumalanga/Nelspruit airport to return the pink rental car and pick up another rental car. Doing so enables us to save approximately US $800, ZAR $8712. Since we’ll be traveling in that direction anyway, it made all the sense in the world to swap cars when the savings more than pays for our three-day outing.
 These enormous sausages-like pods grow on the Sausage Tree (duh) were growing on a few trees in the park. Our Marloth Park friend Piet, informed us as to the name of these trees.
 
 These pods were huge, comparable to the forearm of a large human on the Sausage Trees.
 
We only saw a few Sausage Trees clumped together in one area.

Although we love being here at this lodge, in this canyon, and in this area, we have no sense of dread that often accompanies returning “home” after a pleasurable time away.  
In the time we have remaining in Marloth Park, already having passed the halfway mark, we’ll continue to embrace the ongoing wonders of daily life in the wildlife-rich area.

Over the next several days, we’ll continue to post photos, sharing what we’ve learned during this short but special time away. Often, we’ve heard the locals say, “I want to travel like you guys but, staying in South Africa. There’s so much to see here!”

We heartily agree.  Thank you, South Africa. Thank you so much for sharing your treasures with us!

Talk about “safari luck!”…Knock us over with a feather….We’ve arrived in Blyde River Canyon. What a first day!

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After stopping at a was rest stop in Kruger National Park, there was a Vervet Monkey atop our pink rental car when we returned. It was one of many very entertaining experiences we had during our 5 1/2 hours in the park this morning.

At 6:15 am Wednesday morning, we were on our way for the full day’s drive to the Blyde River Canyon for a three-night stay, commencing at the Crocodile River entrance to Kruger National Park.

This is the narrow single-lane one must cross over the dangerous Crocodile River in order to enter Kruger National Park. One wouldn’t want to fall into this river!

We’d decided to take the longer route through the park to experience our first “self-drive” safari. After watching a video posted on Facebook a few days ago, as an angry male elephant toppling a car onto its side with a foolish driver at the wheel, we were especially cautious.

At the entrance gate, we showed our passports and paid the fee of  US $45.90, ZAR $500 and we were on our way.

We entered the park with determined caution, hoping that once again our “safari luck” would prevail. But, after having seen only a family of Helmeted Guinea-Fowl with adorable chicks on the road, we considered that perhaps, “safari luck” had run out. Ha! How wrong we were!

The first sign of life we encountered was this flock of the familiar Helmeted Guinea Fowls who tend to pick through and eat the dug of the elephants who only digest 40% of their food leaving the remainder undigested which is often eaten by birds.

The intent was to spend a few hours maneuvering our way through the park to exit at the famous Paul Kruger exit, not far from the town of Hazyview, to then follow along the renowned Panorama Route.  

The Guinea Fowl gathered all their chicks together as we slowly drove by.

Little did we know or expect to spend 5½ hours in the park, extending our exiting route to the more distant Numbi Gate.

After seeing several impalas and more guinea-fowl (as Tom calls hens), we were worried “safari luck” wasn’t with us for once. After an hour had passed and we hadn’t seen much, we resigned ourselves.

Taking over 100 photos during our drive, we couldn’t have been more thrilled if we had seen the Big 5, of which we found two. We’d had that glorious experience 3½ months ago when on safari in the Maasai Mara in Kenya in the first 10 hours in the bush. Experiencing it again was no longer important to us. 

Then, there he was. Tom spotted him first from afar.  He was on the right side of the car, the driver’s side (opposite of the US and other countries). Tom angled the car, enabling me to get this shot with the car window open.  

What has been important to us has been to have fun, to talk, to laugh, and to fill our hearts with the love of nature and our surroundings, which has proven to be a relatively easy task here in Africa, barring some scary crawling things we could happily do without.  

Little zoom was necessary for these photos. We were at a safe distance and Tom was prepared to back up in a hurry if necessary if the elephant became agitated.

But, it all has been a part of the adventure; the good, the great, the stupendous and, the occasional not so nice. 

He was well aware of us in the road, Suddenly, he decided he had enough of our prying eyes and camera. We took a video when he turned toward us appearing angry and clearly wanting us to leave. We’ll post the video as soon as we can get a strong enough signal to download it to YouTube.

The next morning at breakfast we’re comfortably situated in the outdoor dining area in the exquisite resort, The Blyde River Canyon Lodge, as I attempt to complete this post with a slightly improved WiFi signal when closer to the main office of the resort.

The elephant had enough of us and backed up onto the road at a good pace in our direction. Tom quickly responded, backing up as fast as possible. Although we were at a safe distance (so we thought), it was time to get out of his view. Our upcoming video will more clearly explain what transpired.

Our photos of the drive through Kruger Park will illustrate the magnificence of our “self-drive” safari.  Going at our own pace, stopping for as long or as little as we chose, backing up on the road if we missed something, stopping to check the tire pressure” behind a bush, all contributed to the quality of the experience.

Satisfied that we were out of his way, he completed his goal of moving to the left side of the road. We waited for several minutes and then continued on our way.


He never took his eyes off of us as we drove past him continuing on our way. We both agreed that having this experience alone would satisfy us for the day.  Little did we know what was yet to come an hour further down the road, all of which we’ll share tomorrow.

Adding Mother Nature’s cooperation and “safari luck” to the mix, you’ll see from these photos what I’m talking about. We didn’t need a “Big 5” experience. We only needed to have fun and that, dear readers, is exactly what we did.

No more than minutes later, we encountered this family of monkeys playing in the road with their offspring.  Their playful antics made us laugh.

Again, as we enjoy yet another three-day trip we’ll produce lots more photos that it will most likely take many days to share. So please bear with us, as we work our way through. The slow WiFi signal definitely impedes our ability to post dozens of photos in one post.

Nothing like a baby monkey kissing the ground. LOL.

Tomorrow, we’ll be back to more of the adventures of our lives, lived to the fullest, including more Kruger Park photos and, taking a walk with an elephant’s truck in our hands, an elephant “kissing” our necks using the end of his trunk and much more.

Thanks for your patience.

Road trip tomorrow…Three night stay in Blyde River Canyon…Kruger Park…Panorama Route..Plus more new photos…

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One of few female kudus we’ve seen since our arrival when we found a small herd along the side of the road on our way to the water store, Credence Clearwater, to buy refills.

Early tomorrow morning, Wednesday, we’ll begin a road trip to Blyde River Canyon and to explore the renowned Panorama Route, over the next three days, returning to Marloth Park late Saturday.

To begin, we’ll drive through Kruger National Park for approximately two hours, hopefully seeing lots of wildlife.  Then we’ll be exiting via one of the many entrance gates to the park to arrive at the town of Hazyview.  Continuing north to the Blyde River Canyon, we expect to arrive before dark.

Another kudu from the herd along the road, under the protection of dense bush. The five females appeared to have two babies, but they were kept well hidden. We suppose the reason we hadn’t seen many females up to this point in due to the time they stay hidden for several weeks after the birth of their young. Males do not participate in the upbringing of their offspring.

We’ll have traveled through only one-quarter of the north/south route of Kruger. Although the distance until we’ll exit the park is 55 miles, 88.3 km, the driving is slow as we’ll be stopping for wildlife and possibly following behind other slow vehicles on the narrow roads.  

Baby warthog sleeping in our yard, while mom and three other babies, munched on vegetation.

Once exiting the park we’ll have another 88 miles, 143 km to travel taking approximately another two or more hours. Of course, this travel time doesn’t account for the many stops we’ll be making along the way.

Mr. Monitor Lizard, slithering along the driveway most likely looking for a bite to eat.

Once we arrive at the Blyde River Canyon Lodge, we’ll check-in, get situated in our room in the quaint, positively reviewed eight-room lodge, and head to dinner in their restaurant. Each day over our three-night stay at the lodge we’ll venture out to see the many nearby sites.

Most likely, this is the Blu Tuna Tortoise which we noticed a few days ago walking in the driveway, moving surprisingly fast.

At this point, we’re assuming, based on several reviews, that the WiFi in the lodge will be adequate for us to post photos both tomorrow night and continuing each day. Thus, you will hear from us before the end of your day, depending on your time zone. 

This young impala, perhaps a month old or less, stopped by yesterday with her mom. Usually, impala females and babies travel around the area in groups of six or more. It was the first time, we spotted a mom and baby alone. Here again, the males do not remain with their offspring and do not mate for life.

Packing for this short trip is easier than ever before with our now tiny inventory of clothing and shoes. In five minutes this morning, I pulled out everything I’ll need to bring along.  Tom will pack later today after we return from a trip to Komatipoort to purchase more data and a quick trip to the “chemist” for a few items.

Tonight, we’ll dine at Jabula Lodge, the only “open to the public” restaurant in Marloth Park that can easily accommodate my way of eating with great food, ambiance, and service.

Today, we’ve included a few photos we’ve never shared, taken over the past week.  See you tomorrow with more!