My boys…What can I say?…It’s a glorious day in the bush!”…A few more Kruger photos…

We waited patiently as the giraffe made her way across the dirt road in Kruger.

“Sighting of the Day in the Bush”

There he is…Scar Face has returned after a three-week hiatus. 

With Louise, Danie, and her parents coming for dinner tomorrow night, I decided to work on a bit of food prep this morning. I had a late start after actually sleeping until 7:30 am, a rarity for me. Tom was up at 5:30, as usual, unable to sleep any longer.

Greeting the balmy day couldn’t have been more perfect. The sun was shining, the temperature was ideal, and a slight breeze wafted through the air every so often. Now, at noon, the perfect weather continues.

It’s looking better, but it may take a while longer for his injury to completely heal.

Of course, our day has been brightened further by the arrival of one group of visitors after another; Miss Kudu and baby; Mrs. Warthog, auntie, and two babies; a couple of dozen helmeted guinea fowl; and then…pure delight.

Mornings are hectic. At around 9:30 am, Tom called out to me while I was busy in the kitchen to immediately come outside. I was anxious to get out anyway to begin working on today’s overdue post, which I always do sitting at the big table on the veranda enjoying the sights and sounds of nature along with whatever visitors come to grace us with their presence.

Often, when animals in the wild are injured, they seem to know how to take care of themselves without intervention from humans.
I wiped my wet hands on the legs of my jeans as I rushed outdoors, unsure of what to expect, anticipating that Tom was summoning me to see birds at the old bushbaby stand which we’re now using as a bird feeder since we purchased a new bushbaby stand a few days ago from Daisy’s Den.

My heart stopped in my chest when there stood Scar Face, as Tom said, “Your boy is back!” I squealed like a pig myself when I saw him. He and I made our usual penetrating eye contact. Oh, how I’d love to know what he’s thinking.

It’s always a joy to see zebras, whether here in Marloth Park or in Kruger.

Most likely, he was hungry and was looking for apples, pellets, and perhaps a few carrots. (Warthogs are finicky about carrots. Some like them, others do not). Scar-Face will eat a few. 

Luckily, yesterday after a shopping trip to Komatipoort and Lebombo (where there’s a market with the best carrots anywhere), we purchased plenty of carrots and apples, some of which I’d already cut up. (Thanks, Louise, for your help in the carrot matter). I grabbed the bowl from the refrigerator, anxious to get back out to him.

A face only a mother could love!

Tom and I stood on the veranda tossing handfuls of apples and pellets to Scar-Face while he voraciously devoured them as quickly as we could toss them out. With the holiday season over for now and many homeowners off to other lands, it could have been days since he’d had much food other than his usual foraging.

With winter approaching and little rain, the pickings are slim for many animals, and they surely appreciate a hand out of pellets, fruits, and veggies from whoever happens to be around.

Each time we enter Kruger, we see at least one elephant, frequently many more. We never tire of seeing the magnificent beasts or other wildlife, for that matter.

Why we hadn’t seen him since a week before we left for Zambia (we were gone one week) and now back a whole week as of today, we’ll never know. Maybe he came by while we were gone and gave up when we weren’t here.

It’s impossible to read the minds of wildlife. Although they’re “creatures of habit” like us humans, their patterns may be inconsistent as they wander through the 3000 hectares (11.58 square miles) that consist of this unique and magical conservancy where animals roam free.

A cape buffalo was resting in the vegetation in Kruger.

He looked better, although it will take many more months for his injury to heal fully. He seemed otherwise healthy, and when he was done eating and heard a noise in the bush, he took off at a fantastic pace. (Warthogs can run at a rate of 55 km, 35 miles per hour when chased by a lion).

Hopefully, now that he sees we’re here, he’ll return as regularly as he had the first months we were here. Gosh, it’s so easy to become attached to these animals even when we don’t touch them or interact with them as we would a pet in our home. 

This is a female giraffe based on the hair on her ossicones which males do not have.

These are not pets. They’re wild animals, and although some have become used to humans in “their” territory, they still behave like wild animals. It would be unwise and unfair to them to attempt to “domestic them.” Doing so could ultimately result in their eventual demise.

Some disagree with feeding the wildlife. We understand this concept. However, many residents of Marloth Park have been providing pellets and vegetables, and fruit to them for decades, and they’ve continued to thrive.  We’ve followed suit, especially when we see the vegetation drying up as winter rolls in.

Tom’s hair had become unruly, prompting him to get another haircut sooner than usual.

On Wednesday, Tom had his hair cut and is thrilled with the result. Yesterday, as mentioned above, we headed to Lebombo and Komatipoort to shop for groceries, buy pellets at Obaro, stop at the pharmacy for a few items, and see Dr. Theo for our appointment for more vaccinations. More on this in tomorrow’s post.

He had it cut right here in Marloth Park at a busy salon near Daisy’s Den where we buy birdseed and other items.

Today, we’ll stay put while we continue to prep for tomorrow evening’s dinner party. It will be fun to meet Louise’s parents and share great conversation and good food and wine!

May your day be filled with happy surprises!

Photo from one year ago today, May 25, 2017:

The sun filtered through the tall trees at Butchart Gardens in Victoria, British Columbia. For more photos, please click here.

Exciting Kruger visit with astounding video…Play on words…

Please watch our video of a very unusual cape buffalo occurrence.

“Sighting of the Day in the Bush”

This warthog’s tusks are almost a full circle.

Yea, I know. We’re running out of adjectives to use to describe our experiences. Or, perhaps, we ran out long ago. I look up words on a variety of online thesaurus’ searching for new or different words to use. 

These two cape buffaloes, horns stuck together, were close to the dirt road, making it easy to get these photos.

Alas, all I see are the same adjectives we repeat, such as; stunning, spectacular, sensational, unbelievable, unbelievable, heart-stopping, heart-pounding, breathtaking, astonishing, surprising, and on and on.

The anguished look on the faces was disheartening.

What can we do to describe over-the-top adventures we encounter almost on a weekly, if not daily, basis? Not much unless anyone out there has a better idea.

They could have been stuck for minutes, hours or days for all we knew when we stumbled upon this dreadful scene.

Even if we ranked an experience on a rating system from one to ten in a short period, it would be as redundant as the above over-used adjectives in almost every one of our daily posts.

“Guffaw,” I say (nice word to use), I’m going to stop thinking about my overuse of these adjectives and go with the word(s) including all of the above and more, that most effectively describes what we’ve seen and done.

They tried desperately to become un-entangled to no avail.

So here we go again…attempting to describe yesterday’s self-drive in Kruger National Park in search of a unique wildlife experience. Oh, I’ll admit, a nice giraffe, zebra, or elephant photo op does get the blood pumping through our veins, eliciting a certain degree of enthusiasm. 

We felt helpless. There was nothing we could do other than report it and our location at the time. Would something be done, such as tranquilizing them to get them free? But, most likely, this wouldn’t be safe when there were dozens of other cape buffaloes in the area. They can be very dangerous animals.  “It is widely regarded as a very dangerous animal, as it gores and kills over 200 people every year. Also known as Black Death, the Cape Buffalo can be extremely dangerous and is said to have killed more big game hunters than any other animal in Africa.”

However, a large “parade” of elephants excites us more, as does a “tower” of multiple giraffes, as does a “dazzle” of a dozen or more zebras. For us, “onesies” aren’t quite as stunning as numbers have the potential to be. 

It seemed hopeless until another buffalo came along. Check the above video as to what the other buffalo did to help.

The exception to the above may be in spotting rhinos; leopards, cheetahs, and of course, the often-sought lion or lioness and cubs. Then again, mysterious creatures such as the pangolin, porcupine, aardvark, and wild dogs, including many more nocturnal unlikely-to-spot animals even the most experienced guide seldom spots.

Another buffalo approached, wondering what was going on. Check the above video as to what the other buffalo did to help.

For us going into Kruger is all about our so-called “safari luck” or, as one may say, “pièce de résistance” when we have the opportunity to encounter something very special to us, which may be mundane to the more experienced participants in safaris throughout the world.

Then again, we’re no slouches in having had animal viewing experiences over the years. One need only peruse our site’s 2124 posts (as of today) to see how much we’ve actually seen in these past 5 years and 7 months since we began our journey.

They have sad faces when content.  But under these circumstances, they looked more miserable.

So, after driving through Kruger yesterday, having no safari luck whatsoever other than sighting lots of impalas (typical), a few wildebeest (a little less specific), and a few zebras (always lovely to see but more common), we resigned ourselves to the fact that for once, and only once so far in our numbers of trip to Kruger, we’d leave with few exciting photos and videos.

Alas, as we began the return drive on a dirt road back to the Crocodile Bridge, forgoing the paved road with the more decent little rental car, we stumbled upon today’s highlighted story, the entanglement of two cape buffaloes whose horns must have become stuck during an altercation over supremacy.

After they were free, they immediately started grazing. Who knows, maybe they hadn’t eaten in days?

Upon returning from Kruger, I checked YouTube to see how many other videos had been posted with cape buffalo horns entangled in one another, let alone when another buffalo came to their rescue. There were none.  This must be unique. This is the kind of sighting we long to discover.

Dear readers, revel with us in today’s video for which there is a lack of redundancy (at last) and, I doubt I can come up with any appropriate adjectives to describe this sighting. I’ll leave that up to you. 

Turtle crossing the road in Kruger.

Please pass this post and/or video on to your family, friends, and neighbors. Maybe, we can get it to go viral. We won’t make money from it going viral. That’s not our intent. But we can add to the list of “amazing” readers we have throughout the world.

Have a stupendous day!

Photo from one year ago today, May 24, 2017:

Busy port in Skagway, Alaska.  For more photos and Alaskan cruise final expenses, please click here.

An exciting drive in Marloth Park…Back from Kruger…Great day…Lots of safari luck…

This was our first sighting of a good-sized herd of cape buffalo we spotted from Marloth Park yesterday on the banks of the Crocodile River. There were from 24 to 30 in the herd.

“Sighting of the Day in the Bush”

Tom’s “Little Girl” bushbuck has been so happy he’s back, she comes to see him each day.

After yesterday’s massive response from our readers on our story on invasive alien plants (please see our post here if you missed it), we’re making every effort to expand our knowledge through education about biodiversity in Marloth Park.

We captured these photos through the electrified wires in the fence that separates Marloth Park from Kruger Park.

Of course, we’ll continue to share photos of our visitors as they arrive, our trips to Kruger National Park, and any other areas we may visit on occasion. But, conservation issues are constantly in our minds as we revel in this magnificent place.

We waited patiently while attempting to get a few face shots.

We often ask ourselves, “How long can this keep up?” Will the animals always be here, or will the effects of the human footprint eventually impact the number of animals in Marloth Park? 

Yesterday was hot and humid, so it’s not surprising they congregated near the water.

We’re on a mission to discover more, and currently, we’re working on a new story we’ll share in the next week that may surprise you. It certainly surprised us. Please check back for more.

Instinctively many wild animals rest close to one another as a defense from predators.
After this great sighting, we continued on our way content we’d had a good day.

In the interim, we’re having a blissfully busy week since our return from Zambia last Friday evening. The days are flying by so quickly we can hardly keep track. Isn’t that typical when you’re having the time of your life?

Hornbills spend a lot of time on the ground as well as flying and in trees.

This morning, after preparing tonight’s dinner to be later baked in the oven, we decided to take advantage of the exquisitely sunny morning and head to Kruger National Park.

Of course, it’s equally exciting to see ostriches.

Now that we have our “Wild Card,” which we purchased for one year, we can enter the park as often as we’d like at no additional fees. We try to go at least once every two weeks and are seldom disappointed, especially when “safari luck” kicks in. Today was no exception. Tomorrow’s post will contain some fantastic scenes we captured.

An ostrich’s mouth stays open to cool off since they have no sweat glands.  They can tolerate high heat.

As for the rest of the week, yesterday, Tom had his haircut and is happy with the outcome. Tomorrow, we go to Dr. Theo in Komatipoort for the balance of our vaccinations and boosters. We’ve invited Louise and Danie along with Louise’s parents from Cape Town for dinner at our place on Saturday evening.

It’s always such a joy to see the giraffes in Marloth Park.

Tomorrow, we’ll grocery shop for the first time since we returned, managing to dine on items we already had on hand in the deep freeze, adding a few things from the Marlothi Center’s mini-mart. Plus, we’ll head to Obara to purchase more pellets, the pharmacy for odds and ends, and a quick stop at the biltong (locally made jerky) store.

Female giraffes have tufts of hair on their ossicones where males do not, mainly since they use these small horns in combat for dominance.

Our friends Kathy and Don return this weekend, and indeed we’ll see them soon once they are settled in. Well, the list could go on and on. Need I say, we’re content with the activity level since we always make time to relax and unwind.

Mostly Egyptian geese on the distant shore of the Crocodile River.

The evenings are incredibly relaxing while sitting outdoors on the veranda waiting for a wide array of visitors to arrive and, of course, the dependable arrival of the dozen bushbabies living in the trees in the yard.  No, we haven’t seen Scar-Face yet, but we continue to remain hopeful. 

May you have a pleasant evening as well. We’ll be back at you soon!   

Photo from one year ago today, May 23, 2017:

This day, one year ago, we arrived in Sitka, Alaska. We were the only ship in port, and the crowds in the town weren’t wrong. For more photos, please click here.

The bush continues to deliver…They’re back but not all of them…

We returned on Friday evening.  These were our visitors on Saturday afternoon.  We’re back!

“Sighting of the Day in the Bush”

This morning, Miss Kudu was on the road by our house after a pleasant visit, after which she wandered down our driveway. What a glorious morning!

It appears we’ve exhausted sharing our photos of Victoria Falls, Chobe National Park, Chobe River, and the Zambezi River. What a fabulous experience we’ll always treasure. Not only did we love every moment but we had such fun together with never a dull moment.

My favorite, “Miss Kudu,” didn’t waste any time stopping to see us.

Now, back in Marloth Park, we’ve had an opportunity to see some friends, and more social gatherings will follow soon. Yesterday afternoon we visited Gail and Mark at their home along the Crocodile River. 

It took a few days for the mongoose to realize we’d returned. Of course, scrambled eggs were on the menu.

We’d written a post about Gail’s heroic experience with an abandoned chimpanzee in Liberia and subsequently had written a book, “Her Name is Missy,” which is available for purchase here. They’d joined us for dinner last month, and we look forward to spending more time with both of them.

This afternoon we’re visiting a new couple we met who are both Marloth Park Honorary Rangers.  We’ll be preparing an exciting story we’ll share in tomorrow’s post after we interview them further.

The two “boys” are back with “Little Wart Face” in the background.

This morning, Louise stopped by to bring me a choice of a variety of tea filters to use for the delicious loose tea we’d purchased at the Livingstone Airport from the new little shop, as mentioned in a post of a few days ago which can be found here. Of course, I couldn’t let her leave without sharing some of my outstanding tea for her to take home.

Tom’s favorite “Little Girl” bushbuck came to see us the first morning we were back from Zambia.

This magical place is a plethora of fascinating people, each with their own unique stories to tell. Over these next few months, we’ll be adding more stories and photos about local citizens and their contributions to Marloth Park, its wildlife, and its surroundings. 

Kudus along the side of the road on our way to the little market.

We feel fortunate to have the opportunity to meet so many beautiful people and hear about their lives and their motivation for living in this magical place. Tom always asks the question, “How did you discover or hear about Marloth Park?

Nature…amazing! All zebras have those black spots on the inside of their legs. This spot is naturally callused, so when they’re lying down, they can place their sharp hooves on this spot and prevent them from injuring themselves.

 The answers are varied and ultimately interesting. No two stories are alike. “And how did we find it?” we’ve been asked. 

In 2012, shortly after we decided to travel the world, I sat in a chair in our family room for nearly 12 hours each day, searching for where we’d live in Africa, my dream continent to explore. It was via a photo Louise had posted on her website, as shown below. 

Warthog in the kitchen was doing “crumb patrol.” See this post from the day we originally posted this photo.

This photo so bespeaks what triggered our passion for being here. Those of you who’ve followed us for years surely understand. Speaking of warthogs, sadly, we have not seen Scar-Face in over two weeks. We’d heard a warthog with a massive hole in his face had been “culled” while we were gone. My heart sank. He was doing so much better, we thought.

Scar-Face was small, so we’re hoping it wasn’t him. But, now, after speaking with several locals, they say there were two warthogs with holes in their faces, one large and one small. The larger of the two was culled.,

This bushbuck mom and her baby have been visiting for months.  The baby certainly has grown, hasn’t she?

This morning, we spoke to the above-mentioned Honorary Rangers, and they stated they’d seen a small warthog with such an injury that appeared to be healing in the past week.  We hope he’ll return and we have the opportunity to see him again.

It’s so easy to get wrapped up with certain animals here in the bush. It’s funny how many of us get the same “visitors,” We each have our names for them. We’ve been able to interact with many of our “regulars” since we’ve returned but not Scar Face, Wart Face, or Frank so far.

Last night after dark, “Mom, Two Piglets and Auntie” came back to see us along with another boy group of four zebras.

 We’ll be sitting outdoors day and night waiting for them to appear, except for the few times we leave to tour the park or go shopping. We’ll post updates and photos here, of course.

That’s all for today, folks! Please check back tomorrow for our new story as mentioned above.

Have a meaningful Monday!

Photo from one year ago today, May 21, 2017:

Photos don’t do Hubbard Glacier justice. It was stunning. It’s hard to believe we were there a year ago today! For more photos, please click here.

Sunset Cruise on the Zambezi River…A dream fulfilled…A romantic night we’ll always remember…

Of all the boats available for a sunset cruise on the Zambezi River, we chose the Lion King, which had the highest reviews of all the options. We thoroughly loved the experience.

“Sighting of the Day in the Bush”

We could heat the loud bellows from the hippos, but most of them were tucked away under the vegetation along the banks of the Zambezi River.

Today is our last full day in Zambia. Tomorrow at 11:00 am, Alec will pick us up for the ride to the airport for our return flight to Nelspruit, South Africa. Of course, we’re excited at the prospect of returning to Marloth Park, South Africa.

We boarded the Lion King by 4:00 pm and were back at the hotel by 6:30 pm.

Always a happy reality of our world travels…we never feel we have to end our holiday/vacation to go “home” to return to work, tend to piles of snail mail, or handle piles of dirty laundry. No doubt, Marta will insist on helping us get our clothes washed, on the clothesline, and neatly folded.

Bee Eaters make nests and burrow into holes they create in the river bank.

We’ll unpack, sort the dirty laundry for washing, put away the toiletries, and in no time at all; our stunning routine will be firmly back in place. A quick trip to Komatipoort for groceries sometime over the weekend, and we’ll be set. Most likely, tomorrow night, we’ll dine at Jabula or stop at Hamilton’s in Malelane on the way from Nelspruit to Marloth Park.

Somehow the bee-eaters know how high they should build their burrows above water level.

Last night’s sunset cruise on the Zambezi River was a perfect end to our amazing tours while staying in Zambia. We couldn’t have been more thrilled with the boat, the gorgeous weather, the staff, the included food and drinks, the views along the river, and the fabulous live music played on the “marimba,” a popular African instrument. See here for details.

The boat staff on another cruise, the African Queen, was relaxed with so few passengers on board their boat. The Lion King carries 105 passengers, but there were only 10 of us. Tom and I had the entire upper deck to ourselves during the two-hour cruise.

With the entire upper deck to ourselves, along with a few staff members, we were really able to freely enjoy ourselves, being silly and playful, moving around the deck as we pleased when taking photos without anyone’s heads in our way. It couldn’t have been more perfect.

Last night, we spotted this resting crocodile on the banks of the Zambezi River.

The average cost for the Lion King, which includes basic appetizers, wine, beer, and cocktails were kwacha 702 (US $70) per person and was well worth it.  Overall, the cost of the tours was not cheap. 

Check out those teeth! Crocs can replace each of their 80 teeth up to 50 times in their 35 to 75-year lifespan.

One can plan to spend close to kwacha 10,030 (US $1,000) for quality tours in Zambia.  We write more on this in tomorrow’s post when we list our total final expenses, including tours, dining out, hotel bills, taxis, taxes, and tips. 

“Photo op over, humans! I’m outta here!” he said.

We paid a little less by booking through Chris Tours than we would have through the hotel, but when booking through the hotel, the traveler can put the cost of the tours on the hotel bill and subsequent credit card, whereby we had to pay in cash as mentioned in an earlier post. 

The friendly staff served us drinks and snacks included, most of which I couldn’t eat. As usual, Tom ate mine, and I had a bite back at the hotel later in the evening.

In the end, it all worked out well for us. Some travelers prefer to work through the hotel since they feel more comfortable knowing the hotel will stand behind the quality of the tour. But, if paying in cash is not an inconvenience, it may be worth saving about kwacha 1,003 (US $100). 

Enjoying the sunset over the Zambezi River was a special treat and a great end to our time in Zambia.

In our case, we lucked out in several ways; in finally getting the cash from an ATM, in getting the ATM card back from the bank where the machine “ate it” on Saturday morning, and in having great service from Chris Tours in coordinating all of our activities. Safari luck, again.

It was surprising how many boats were on the river for sunset.

Now, as we sit in the restaurant, preparing today’s post on another perfect weather day, we can’t stop smiling over the fabulous time we’ve had. Not only was last night’s sunset cruise a delightful experience, but we’re continuing to revel over the other tours we’ve done during our time in Zambia.

And soon, the sun started to wane.

We leave tomorrow with the utmost respect and admiration for the Zambian people, many of whom make a living in the tourist industry and handle their clientele with the utmost dignity and care. 

We moved about the upper deck we had to ourselves several times while taking photos.

Today, we’ll start working on tomorrow’s post’s final expenses and the review of the hotel. We still have many other reviews to complete at TripAdvisor for restaurants, tours, and venues we’ve experienced during our time in Zambia.  We hope to complete all of this in the next 24 hours.

Some cloud cover helps create a stunning sunset.

By the time we leave tomorrow, we’d like to have completed all of these necessary components, including updating our spreadsheets with the figures.  Thus, when we return to Marloth Park, we can focus on getting back into the groove of our wonderful life with the animals and humans living in the glorious bush!

And then, it was gone, and our boat, the Lion King, headed back to the starting point.

May your day bring a smile to your face to see you through the day and evening.

The evening ended too quickly. We had such a great time on the peaceful cruise but continued our good time at the hotel.

Photo from one year ago today, May 17, 2017: 

As one might think, it wasn’t cold outside on the decks as we cruised to Alaska on the inside passage. We wandered outdoors without jackets, and it was cool but comfortable. For more photos, please click here.

Part 2…Chobe National Park safari and Chobe River cruise…Interesting geography, culture and much more…

A small but substantially packed ferry was arriving in Zambia from Botswana while we waited. This reminded us of the ferry boat when we come to Mombasa, Kenya, in September 2013. Click here for that post.
Riding the ferry is accessible for people but not for vehicles between Zambia and Botswana but, to disembark requires removing one’s shoes and walking in the water.

“Sighting of the Day in the Bush”

A kingfisher and his catch-of-the-day.  Not a perfect shot, but we were thrilled to get this while on the move.

At the moment, as I begin today’s post, I’m sitting alone outdoors at the hotel restaurant while Tom has gone with Matthew, our regular taxi driver, to the bank where one of our debit cards was swallowed by the ATM on Saturday.

This is where we stood and waited for the little boat to take us across the Zambezi River. A bridge is being built to accommodate the crossing, which could be completed by the end of 2019.

Yesterday our free day, Matthew drove us to the bank only to find the bank manager, the only person who can release the card, was out and none of the staff knew when he’d return. We couldn’t wait around all day for him to return.  We returned to the hotel.

Alec told us this truck broke down on the cement ramp on the river bank. It was shoved off into the river two years ago to get it out of the way and remains in this spot.

Matthew and the hotel concierge got to work to try and reach the bank manager, and a few minutes ago, Tom left to head back to the bank, where the manager was finally available. There’s no guaranty he’ll return the card to Tom, as explained by a bank official. It’s entirely up to the manager’s discretion.

These locals, situated on the side of the road, were selling cold beverages.

Humm…what about Tom will determine whether or not he is credible enough to get his card back? He’s wearing a nice shirt and shorts but then again, so are all the locals and tourists we see. I guess we’ll find out soon enough when he returns, which, when he does, I’ll include the result here as I continue to work on today’s post.

Alfred, our BushTracks guide from Botswana.

Oh, don’t get me wrong, we don’t hold this against Zambia in any manner.  We’re in Africa, and clean-cut scammers are coming up with the most unbelievable means of scamming people and institutions like many other parts of the world. I suppose they’re just following protocol.

Locals were walking on the road from Zambia to the ferry to head to Botswana.

Yes, we know we can order a new card from our bank in the US, but the inconvenience of collecting the card by snail mail is frustrating and time-consuming. We’ll see how it goes soon enough.

Anyway, today’s photos and stories include various scenes from the trip to Botswana. First, Alec, our trusty driver and tour guide inside of Zambian border (with Chris Tours), picked us up at the hotel at 7:00 am for the 45-minute drive to the Zambia immigration office near a busy pier on the Zambezi River where four countries intersect as follows:

“There is a place called Kazungula, where four countries meet at the Zambezi and Chobe Rivers intersection. Zambia, Zimbabwe, Botswana, and a tiny strip of Namibia all come together in one spot.” 

These women around this table all looked up at me and smiled, and gave the thumbs up. What this meant, I’m not sure, but I responded with a big smile and thumbs up as well.

That’s interesting,” we both commented simultaneously. In reviewing the map below, we started in Zambia and crossed the Zambezi River. Once we were on the other side, we were in Botswana. Here’s a map showing these points:

“African “Quadripoint” Only Place on the Earth, Where Four Distinct Territories’ are Touched.” 

Matthew went inside the bank with Tom as his local advocate, and a short time later, he and Tom walked out of the bank with Tom’s debit card safely back in his wallet. (Tom just returned from the bank. He got the card back! Whew! Tom generously “thanked” Matthew when they returned to the hotel).

At every border, vendors promote their wares by asking for purchases multiple times. We say, “No, thank you.”

Once passports were stamped indicating we were leaving Zambia, Alec walked us to a makeshift pier area where we’d have to walk over piles of pier-related construction materials toward the cement ramp where we’d board a little boat to cross the river. 

A very large hornbill, one of our favorite birds in South Africa.

Alec stayed behind in Zambia for the entire day, awaiting our return at 4:10 pm. We felt empathetic about his long day of waiting, but he said he manages to busy himself while waiting for his customers to return after the Chobe day trip.

A troop of baboons in a tree.

Crossing from Zambia into Botswana isn’t as easy as showing a passport crossing a vehicle. Alec took our passports while exiting and returning to the Zambian immigration office to get them stamped.

Albert, our guide with Bush Tracks Safari company, who drove us in the safari vehicle through the Chobe National Park and later drove the boat on the Chobe River, handled our passport stamps at the Botswana immigration office.

We saw no less than a dozen crocodiles during our busy day.

When we finally left Botswana at the end of the day, we had to make a personal appearance at immigration. As mentioned above, Alec again handled our passport stamps as he’d done upon entry back in Zambia. 

All of this takes time, but somehow we breezed through most of it while we were in the good hands of our guides. Our four safari mates were interesting to talk to, and we easily entertained ourselves while we waited.

Friend Louise in Kauai, Hawaii, identified this bird as an African Darter. Thanks, Louise!

Once on the Botswana side of the Zambezi River, Albert greeted us and told us a great story (while we waited for the four other guests) of how, when he was 12 years old, he became lost in the bush in Botswana. 

Female giraffes have hair at the top of their ossicones (horns). Males have worn off their hair from fighting for dominance. “The ossicones are what distinguishes the male and female from one another. Stereotypically, the female giraffe has tufts of hair on the top of her horns, while the males are bald on top. Some males develop calcium deposits on top of their heads, which creates the illusion of the animal having more than two horns.”

His grandfather had taught him valuable bush survival skills, which came into use during his three-day ordeal when he was finally found by his family and a search party. He translated this experience into his masterful skills as a safari guide, both on land and on the river. He provided an exceptional experience for all of us.

Another beautiful bird that is included in the “Ugly 5.”  It didn’t look so ugly to us. Thanks to friend Louise in Kauai, Hawaii, and niece Kari for identifying this bird.

Once the four others arrived, we all jumped into the safari vehicle and began the short drive toward Chobe National Park. Shortly before we entered the park, Alfred stopped the car and set up “tea time” with coffee, various teas, and homemade muffins. I sipped on Rooibos tea, the caffeine-free popular local tea, while Tom had coffee and a muffin. 

Albert prepared our “tea time” before we entered the Chobe National Park.

This pleasant tea time reminded us of when we had breakfast in the Masai Mara when our guide Anderson set breakfast in the savannah where the animals roamed around us. 

The photo from our breakfast in the savannah in the Maasai Mara in October 2013. See the post from that date here. 

We can’t believe we’ll be back in the Masai Mara in February, this time with a new guide since Anderson now works in Uganda with the gorilla tours. We’ll see him when we do that tour in the future.

Check out the muscles on the front quarters of this giraffe.

After tea and coffee, we headed directly into Chobe National Park to begin our land safari, which would last less than three hours. Our expectations were low during such a short period. 

A pair of giraffes at a distance.
Giraffes seldom bend down other than to drink water. This position makes them vulnerable to attack by predators.

As typical during most safaris, the dirt roads were uneven, and passengers must expect to bounce around as if on a ride at an amusement park. But, this is way more exciting than a manufactured ride. This was nature at its finest.

Monitor Lizard on the shore of the river.

During the first 45 minutes, we didn’t see much more than we were used to seeing in Marloth Park; impalas, warthogs, and some pretty birds. Then, the magic began as safari luck kicked in, as usual.  When we hadn’t seen much, I was tempted to tell our safari-mates, “No worries. We have safari luck. We’ll see something soon!” But, I kept quiet, not wanting to disappoint anyone if it didn’t happen.

An elderly group of four were stuck in the sand in their rental car. There is no way they’d have extricated themselves from this situation. Alfred used a tow strap/rope from another vehicle stuck behind this car and towed them out. They insisted on going through the sand again, but Alfred discouraged them, telling them to turn around and go back. We don’t know what ultimately transpired for this group of four seniors. Can you imagine being stuck in such a location overnight, stranded in a vehicle?

And safari luck indeed transpired as hoped as we had a spectacular morning in Chobe National Park. Over the next several days, we’ll continue to share photos from the land and Chobe River safaris.

Elephant skull on the side of the dirt road.

Today at 3:30 pm, we’ll be picked up by yet another tour company to take us on a sunset cruise on the Zambezi River on the beautiful, newer “Lion King” catamaran, where drinks and appetizers will be served. It will be fun to meet more travelers while we all share the remarkable stories of our time in this unique part of the world.

Please check back for more and more and more…

Photo from one year ago today, May 16, 2017:
Vancouver is comparable to many cities with many skyscrapers and business centers but is impeccably clean and friendly. We boarded the Celebrity Solstice to Alaska later in the day. Please click here for details.

Part 1…Chobe National Park safari and Chobe River cruise…Short breathtaking videos… Please watch for the magic!

None of the six of us or our guide Alfred could believe our eyes as we watched this male elephant build his mud pool in Chobe National Park. We’ve seen a lot of elephants in Africa but this was a rare sighting for us.

“Sighting of the Day in the Bush”

While on safari in Chobe National Park we spotted this male impala with only one antler, most likely lost in a fight for dominance during the mating season.

Yesterday will be emblazoned into our hearts and minds as one of the most memorable days in our five years and seven months of world travel. Only a few prior experiences are held in such high esteem.

This is when he started digging his mud hole for the mud bath.
After he dug a decent-sized mud hole, he decided to try to lay on his side. Digging the hole must have been exhausting for this big fellow in the heat of the sun.

For me, my top five events include; Petra, Jordan; Masai Mara, Kenya; Marloth Park, South Africa, Antarctica cruise, and now Chobe safari and Chobe River cruise in a small boat.

Finally, he was lying sideways in his mud hole. We couldn’t stop laughing and smiling. It was if he was putting on a show for us. But, the best part was yet to begin.

For Tom, his top five events include Panama Canal cruise; Animals of Africa (including Chobe); lava flow on Big Island, Hawaii; Antarctica cruise and like Tom always says, “Everything upcoming in the future.

Video #1
Video #2
 
Video #3
Video #4

Sure, its easy to get caught up in the enthusiasm of a most recent experience.  You know, kind of comparable to “love the one you’re with” mentality.  However, yesterday was indeed one of those special times, we couldn’t wipe the smiles off of our faces.

Upon arising from his mud bath, he decided to clean up in the river, so we thought.

As we’ve often mentioned, the endorphin rush from seeing and engaging in wildlife is indescribable, especially to those who have little interest in nature and wildlife. They just may not get it. And we understand. We may not become excited about certain adventures others find life-changing. Its all a matter of personal preferences and interests. 

He turned and headed out into the river. Alfred maneuvered the boat to ensure we were in a good position for taking photos.

I could go into lengthy descriptions of the three hours we spent in the morning in Chobe National Park, the borders we crossed, the immigration processes that incurred, the lovely four others travelers with whom we spent the day in the safari vehicle, at lunch at the resort, and in the small boat on the Chobe River in the afternoon.

At one point, he appeared to want to head back to the shore.

For now, our intent is to share our photos and videos and later, we’ll go into more detail about the experiences. Most of the sighting that transpired is forefront in our minds which will be clearly illustrated in our photos, videos, and captions below them.

But then, he marched full-on into the river in a determined stride.

We’re grateful we have this time off today, to begin working on the hundreds of photos, and multiple videos uploaded on YouTube. The WiFi is slow at the hotel today so we apologize for it taking so long to upload today’s post.

Nothing was stopping him now.

Last night, when we returned to the hotel, after a very long and fruitful day, we changed out of our typical “safari clothing tan and khaki “Bugs Away” shirts, pants and hats and showered and dressed for the evening.

We were so close we barely used any zoom to get these shots. However, Albert was mindful of ensuring we didn’t get too close and disturb his swim.
If you “gotta go, you gotta go.” Tom took this photo not aware of what was transpiring. Notice him using his trunk like a snorkel.

As we relaxed at the hotel’s inviting lounge, we toasted one another (as always) making intense eye contact while giggling over Tom’s repeated phrase on today’s included videos he’d made on the Chobe River, “Who would have thunk it?”

After his potty break, he was back on the move, getting into deeper and deeper water.

How did this happen to us? How did we ever end up having traveled to eight African countries (a paltry amount compared to the 54 countries on the continent) which now include: Egypt, Kenya, South Africa, Morocco, Mozambique, Zambia, Zimbabwe, and Botswana.  We’ve visited some of these countries on multiple occasions. 

Soon, his huge feet were no longer touching the river bottom and he was buoyant.
At this point, the playful swimming commenced which can be seen in more detail in the above short videos.

We wonder how many more African countries we’ll have the opportunity to visit during our continuing travels. In reviewing a map of Africa we realize there are many countries we’ll never visit due to a high safety and security risks for tourists. We’re not foolhardy.

We couldn’t believe our eyes when he was totally submerged, then rising for a breath.
After 10 to 15 minutes, he decided he’d had enough and headed for shore.

Then again, we’re definitely not on a particular mission to see a certain number of countries in the world. We’re simply in awe of how many we’ve visited and how many more we’d love to see in the future.

As he approached his mud hole, he checked it out wondering if he should play a little more.
He dug around in the mud hole a little.

There’s so much more to share then that which we’ve posted here today. Over the next week or so, we’ll continue with more details and an endless stream of stunning photos of our week in Zambia.

And, he couldn’t resist a little more play.  Thank you, Mr. Elephant, for a beautiful show!

Thanks to all of our readers for your patience in our oft-odd upload times. Once we return to South Africa we’ll be back to our usual more consistent posting times.

Tom’s getting great at taking photos.  Luckily, we now have two cameras. This ensures we don’t miss a shot.  Wait until you see what’s coming up tomorrow!
Tom took this candid shot of me in my funny BugsAway safari hat.
Today, we’re dealing with our photos, deciding where we’ll dine tonight and looking forward to tomorrow’s Zambezi River sunset cruise. Since we came to Africa in 2013, I’ve longed to cruise on the Zambezi River for reasons I cannot explain. By Thursday, we’ll be able to share “the why.” Please stay tuned.
Happy day to all!
                    Photo from one year ago today, May 15, 2017:
Tom and I in Vancouver, British Columbia with our friend /reader Sheila, a Vancouver resident. For more on this story, please click here.

A reunion with an old friend with a new family…Issues revealed in getting into Kruger Park during holiday…

Adorable baby Danie with his loving and attentive mom, Okey Dokey. He never stopped smiling and laughing the entire time they were visiting.

“Sighting of the Day in the Bush”

Kudus are spectacular animals.  They are gentle and never hesitate to make eye contact. But, those huge antlers can be dangerous for both humans and other wildlife. We stay back when offering food and taking photos.

There are so many people in Marloth Park right now; we’re having trouble with the Internet. I tried downloading today’s photos but wasn’t able to do so for several hours. Now at almost 11:00 am, I’m still busy getting the post ready to upload.

The larger male of the Vervet monkeys troop sits in the tree next to the veranda where the bush baby house is located.

There are 12 national holidays in South Africa, resulting in Mondays as the official “off work” day. As for this current holiday, Tuesday is the official May Day holiday since it’s May 1st. This link will provide you with a list of the South African holidays.

We’ve heard that people are being turned away to enter Kruger National Park during this busy period. Only 600 people are allowed into each of the eleven entrance gates throughout the massive wildlife area. 

He sat there for quite a while, watching us. 

According to our visiting friends Okey Dokey and family, yesterday, people were being turned away without a pre-paid reservation. And even many of those visitors with “reservations” were left waiting for up to two hours to enter the gate. The extra cost for booking a reservation, over and above the usual entrance fees (prices vary), is ZAR 38 (US $3.07) per person.

Once inside, every sighting is observed by dozens of vehicles. Oh, good grief. This enormous natural environment is taken over by commercialism during the holiday, returning to its quiet and enriching status that usually takes one’s breath away.

Soon, he was distracted by the noise his troop-mates were making as they flew through the trees.

Of course, we aren’t going to the park again until well after the holiday when most tourists have left the area. That’s not to say there aren’t others like us who are renting holiday homes during the quieter seasons who will still be here. Hopefully, they, too, like us, attempt to blend in and become a part of this magical place. 

As we enter the cooler winter season, beginning on June 21st, tourism in the area will taper off due to lower temperatures. This morning, both of us were outside on the veranda by 6:30 am bundled up to stay warm. Now, four hours later, we’re back to shorts and tee shirts.

We tried for a better photo of this male bushbuck which is the darkest we’ve seen, but I was distracted with our company and never took the time for a good picture as darkest fell.

The cooler weather will not deter us from spending our days and nights outdoors.  We’ll add more layers of clothing to stay warm. It doesn’t get much below 10C (50F) during most winter months. But, after all of these years of warm weather (except for Antarctica), these temps might feel cold to us.

Before dusk, our dear friend, Okey Dokey, our driver here in Marloth Park four years ago, who remained a great friend these past years, visited us with her husband and baby, both named Dani, for snacks, wine, and beer. We’d never met the two Danis and adored them both.

His coloring was much darker, and he was considerably larger than other male bushbucks we’ve seen so far.

n. It was delightful to meet her two loved ones. It was as if we’d never missed a beat. How fortunate we are to have made such fine friends along the w A third Danie, of Louise and Danie, also joined us since they were also good friends with this extraordinary young woman.

We were sad to see them go. But, adorable little Danie, now almost eight months old, was ready for sleep after they spent a very long day in Kruger, as they explained above, regarding gaining entrance into the park.

I wish I’d taken better photos of our visitors, but sometimes, I’m just more interested in the people than the photos.  Louise is next to Okey Dokey, and Okey Dokey’s husband Danie is seated to Tom’s right.  Louise’s Danie and I were at the far end of the table.

Who knows how long it will be until we see them again? They’ve invited us to visit them at the “farm,” a five-hour drive from here. Perhaps, at some point during our remaining months in South Africa (immigration permitting), we’ll visit them.

Soon we’re off to the little market at Marlothi Centre for a few items for tonight’s dinner and more carrots and apples for our wildlife friends. It will be a quiet few days for us with no plans to travel any further than the little market,  as the holiday season continues through Tuesday.

We hope you have a quiet and pleasant day wherever you may be! 

Photo from one year ago today, April 30, 2017:

Image result for international date line map
Map of the world illustrating how the International Date Line affects each side of the line. One year ago, we crossed, and we had two May firsts. Please click here for details.

Visit to a dentist in South Africa…More excitement at “home”…Remembering a friend in the “Photo from one yea ago”…

From left to right, at the reception desk are Dr. Luzaan, assistants Daleen, and Melanie. They can be reached at 061 608 9323 for appointments.

“Sighting of the Day in the Bush”

Male impalas who rarely visit our yard stopped by last night for a few pellets. They’re timid, and any sudden movement will make them dash off in a hurry. During the mating season, they bark when claiming their territory among other males. It’s a sound like no different sound we’ve heard in the bush.

As we drove through Kruger National Park two days ago, I felt a sharp pain in my right bottom molar several times over three or fours hours. It was over three months ago, while we were on the Antarctica cruise, that a temporary filling I’d had in Costa Rica finally fell out.

When we’d gone to the dentist in Costa Rica (click here for details), for some reason, I didn’t feel right having the dentist entirely replace the chipped filling. Instead, I asked for a temporary filling, knowing that something else would have to be done in time.  

The spotless waiting room in Dr. Luzaan Du Preez’s dental office is located two doors from Wimpy’s in the Spar Shopping Centre in Komatipoort.

Once the temporary filling was in place, I didn’t give it another thought until it fell out during dinner while on the cruise. Since there was no pain or discomfort, just a gaping hole in the tooth, I’d figured that in time I’d get it repaired. 

The well-equipped modern treatment room was the most sophisticated we’d seen in years with the latest and most professional equipment.

Oh, good grief. I don’t like medical stuff. But, if we still lived in the US, from time to time, we’d go to a dentist, a doctor, an ophthalmologist, or others for a wide variety of aches, pains, and illnesses that occur to us at any age. No one is exempt from these issues.

Many zebras were hanging around the yard when we returned from the dentist appointment and grocery shopping in Komatipoort. Of course, we gave them pellets, apples, and carrots.

Unfortunately, living outside our home country and unsure of the quality of medical care in many countries, taking care of medical issues is fraught with a certain degree of fear and apprehension. 

Warthogs are always lurking in the bush, waiting for other animals to stop by so they can partake in the pellet offerings. No wonder they are called wart “hogs.” Five zebras were munching.

Are things sterile?  Will we “catch” something in the doctor’s office? Is the doctor educated sufficiently to handle our concerns, or do they do “cookie-cutter” treatment for all their patients? One never knows. 

As we’ve worked with Dr. Theo Stronkhorst in Komatipoort for our vaccination boosters and my gastro issues, we’ve felt confident in his care. His knowledge and attention to detail are impeccable.

Then, there were seven zebras.

Yesterday’s appointment with Dr. Luzaan made us both feel the same way, resulting in our booking appointments to have our teeth cleaned on May 3rd. What an exceptional dentist! Plus, the entire bill, including x-rays, was only ZAR 625 (US $50.28)!

She took x-rays of my tooth to discover it has a crack, most likely from grinding my teeth at night, which I’ve done all of my life. She explained that the filling she replaced might not last forever, mainly if I eat anything hard to chew on that side. In essence, the tooth may eventually need a root canal and crown. I was in no mood for that right now or at any time soon.

Zebras tend to stay close to one another due to their distinctive stripes acting as a point of confusion to predators. However, in Marloth Park, generally, there are no predators. Although, recently, lions have been sighted.

She gently repaired the filling without anesthetic (to which I jumped only a few times), and we were off to the grocery store, meat market, and biltong store for the foodstuffs we need over the next week.

Another holiday is on the horizon, and once again, Marloth Park will be packed with tourists. We won’t be returning to Kruger until the holiday is over after the weekend. We hear it’s the “May Day” holiday which wasn’t mainly celebrated in the US in our old lives.  Instead, we celebrated “Labor Day” on the first Monday in September.

They stayed around for quite a while, occasionally tossing a kick toward a warthog who honed in on their treats.

By 3:00 pm, we were back home, put away all the groceries, and settled in on the veranda to a busy night in the bush. We used the gas grill to make pork chops for Tom and lamb for me, along with bacony green beans and homemade low-carb almond flour muffins, a real treat when warmed and topped with butter. 

Several times during dinner, we had to jump up to accommodate visitors. But, we don’t mind. A cold plate of food is just fine as long as we can spend time with the animals who stop by day and night, always making us smile.

Enjoy your day and evening! 

Photo from one year ago today, April 25, 2017:

One year ago today, we posted a story and this photo (not ours) about our friend and loyal reader Glenn, who passed away a few days earlier. It’s with love, respect, and reverence that we recall his memory and post this photo once again as we think of Glenn and his lovely wife Staci, with whom we’ve stayed in close touch. For the full story, please click here.

Malelane, another town in South Africa…Another view of rural life…As darkness falls…

Due to a power outage on April 20th, this post wasn’t uploaded until the morning of April 21st.  However, a new post describing an upcoming adventure in Africa will be posted later today, April 21, 2018.  Sorry for the inconvenience.

The road to Malelane on the well-traveled N4 Highway.

“Sighting of the Day in the Bush”

This baby warthog was nursing between her mom’s back legs. 

Yesterday morning, before completing and uploading the post, we decided to drive to Malelane. Our permanent Kruger “Wild Card” (a year-long pass) had arrived at the post office, and time was running out to collect it.

Talk about “rocky mountains!”

Why the pass wasn’t sent to us baffles us since mail usually comes to the post office in the Marlothi Shopping Center. But, as everyone always says, “This is Africa,” and things aren’t always done as we’d expect in other parts of the world.

Giant rocks atop mountains and hills on the way to Malelane.

We quickly found the post office in the small town and headed to the Obaro farm store to buy pellets at hopefully a better price than the recent one. We’d heard we could get a “senior discount” at that location. 

The drive took about 40 minutes from Marloth Park. Many police cars were parked on the sides of the road, looking for offenders. Tom stayed under the speed limit in hopes we wouldn’t get stopped.

As it turned out, the senior discount in Malelane was ZAR 5 (US $.42) per bag, and the bags were priced at ZAR 204 (US $17.03) as compared to ZAR 215 (US $17.95). In all, with the meager discount, we saved a total of ZAR 16.05 (US $1.34) on each of the four bags. 

As darkness falls, Tom’s favorite, Ms. Bushbuck makes an appearance.

Had we not needed to go to the post office, buying pellets in Malelane isn’t something we’ll do in the future. The 90 minutes round trip drive plus the petrol we used doesn’t make it worth a memorable trip.

Then we spotted three hippos near the Crocodile River.

After Obaro, we drove to the biggest mall we’ve seen since we arrived to shop for a few items at the Malelane (also spelled Malalane) SuperSpar, which is much larger than the Spar in Komatipoort. 

Big Daddy stopped by last night, moments before dark.

We couldn’t find several items on our list and decided we’d continue to shop in Komatipoort, which seems to carry most of the things we use. I’ve been trying to find herbal cinnamon tea with no luck anywhere which I like to drink hot or as iced tea. 

Two hippos and a cattle egret at the river’s edge, as seen from the fence between Marloth and Kruger Park.

When we returned home, I ordered 12 boxes of my favorite Good Earth Sweet and Spicy herbal tea (no caffeine, no sugar), which will arrive with our upcoming shipment in several weeks. (We haven’t had it shipped to us yet since we’re awaiting the arrival of a few items to our mailing service in Nevada).

Last night, after dark, we had a steady stream of visitors; warthogs, kudus, bushbucks, bushbabies, and duikers came to call. It was much busier than most evenings.

In any case, the trip to Malelane was enjoyable, visiting another small town in South Africa. The fact that only a little over 8% of the country’s population is white is evident in this small town in Komatipoort.  At no point did we feel like “outsiders,” nor have we anywhere we’ve been in South Africa thus far.

We call him “Little Daddy.”  He’s about 30% smaller than Big Daddy. There are two types of kudus in Marloth Park, the Greater Kudu and the Lesser Kudu, smaller with smaller antlers. This appears to be a Lesser Kudu. Please correct me if I’m wrong.

Of course, Marloth Park is not a realistic representation of demographics or lifestyle in this or any country. It’s a world of its own, far removed from the reality of life in most parts of the world.

Every day we remain in awe and grateful for this experience and more experiences we’ll glean in our remaining time on the continent, another ten months, including several side trips. 

As shown on the veranda floor, our bright lamp doesn’t seem to keep the wildlife away.

The first of those trips is upcoming on May 11th to Zambia, another forthcoming in February, details of which we’ll be sharing in tomorrow’s post. Please check back for photos and exciting information.

May your weekend be filled with peacefulness, pleasure, and purpose.

Photo from one year ago today, April 20, 2017:

Christine and Colin, the fabulous friends we met on a cruise, met up with us in Manly, Australia, for lunch. For more details, please click here.