Party planning in the bush…More new exciting photos…Hot today!…

As the sun was waning during our evening drive. Sunsets in Africa seem to be the most spectacular we’ve seen in our travels.

The last time I planned a party was when we were about to leave Marloth Park on February 28, 2014. It’s customary when someone is leaving South Africa to host their going-away party. 

As darkness began to fall, we squealed with delight when we had to slow down for this ostrich walking down the center of the road. Could it have been Clive or Clove or one of her offspring from our four-year-ago visit?

We invited a small group for dinner shortly before we left. The friends we’d made were in two groups, one related to our rental in one way or another and other friends we’d met along the way. 

We dared to get a little closer to take this shot through the windshield. We didn’t want to scare her away.

At one point or another, we’d had everyone over for dinner, and now as we plan my birthday in five days, I realized we hadn’t planned a party anywhere in the world since that time, and this time, we include both groups. We’re so excited.

Finally, she moved over so we could pass, but we watched her in the rearview mirror, stay on the road for quite some time. What a treat!

This morning, we ordered a regular birthday cake from Jannine (correct spelling), the Marloth Park “cake lady.” I’ll bake a small coconut flour cake for me, and we’ll be able to celebrate eating cake together. 

I’m so excited to be celebrating this milestone birthday with these fine friends. Turning 70 can be daunting, but I’m looking at it as a celebration of life, love, friendship, and the non-stop joy of experiencing the world every day of this unusual lifestyle we’ve chosen to live,

Mr. Kudu was on the side of the road as we passed on the way to the little market in Marloth Park. Now, these stunning males are visiting us in the yard. Photos will follow!

Last night we went to Jabula Restaurant & Lodge to see our old friends, Dawn and Leon, restaurant owners and had a fabulous time. They’d set up beautiful outdoor tables with Valentine decorations, reserving one for us. 

After wine and beer at the bar, we took our table and chatted with a party of three sitting next to us, after our exceptional dinner, which including two red wines for me and four beers for Tom (little lushes we are when out, not at “home”) our total bill including tip was US $47.82 (ZAR 586).

We spotted three wildebeests when we went for our evening drive in the park.

Of course, I ordered “my usual” (from four years ago) peri-peri chicken livers and a substantial grilled Greek chicken salad. Tom ordered barbecue ribs, chips (fries), and salad. We couldn’t have enjoyed it more.

Today, I’m busy cooking one of our favorite homemade recipes, the first full meal I will have prepared in 85 days. We both longed for our favorite low-carb dish, Chicken Pot Pie to which we’ll add a green salad. 

A thought-provoking pose with a bot of vegetation in her mouth.

Although this seems like a cold-weather dish, when we spend most of our lives in warm or hot weather, we don’t let the weather dictate what we’d like to eat. This dish could be classified as comfort food and most certainly, we don’t require much more comfort than we’re feeling now, but it will be fun to sit down with this fine meal tonight.

Wildebeests are commonly seen in Marloth Park and neighboring Kruger National Park.

Once we’re done posting today, and I finish chopping and dicing, we’ll head back to Komatipoort to purchase a few more items we hadn’t been able to find on Monday and hopefully find an HDMI cable.  Like many cables, eventually, they wear out, as was the case with ours. 

Impalas are often referred to a “MacDonalds” when they are the chosen meal for many predators.

We’re thrilled to be getting visitors several times a day, feeding them the nourishing pellets, and talking to them in my usual high-pitched voice. Hopefully, soon, some of the regulars will recognize my voice. So far, no warthogs. I wait patiently.

Today’s high temperature is expected to be 97F (36C), and yet we still sit all day outdoors, sweating up a storm, content as we can be. 

Be content today and always!

Photo from one year ago today, February 15, 2017:

In the Huon Valley in Tasmania, we enjoyed the fresh-picked organic vegetables from owners Anne and Rob’s garden. For more photos, please click here.

Hansel and Gretel style…Dropping pellets in the yard…Visitors have arrived….Happy Valentine’s Day

There she was yesterday,  a pretty kudu, standing by the watering hole in the yard of our holiday home. She nibbled on pellets and hung around for some time. Female kudus usually weigh about 463 pounds (210 kg), while male bulls may be well over 661 pounds (300 kg).  Only the males have long spiral horns. Tomorrow, we’ll share male kudus we spotted while out on our nightly drive.

Over four years ago, when we lived in Marloth Park, we purchased the approved pellets residents can feed the wild animals.  With the recent drought resulting in less vegetation for the wildlife to eat, the pellets are a nutritious food source.

Kudus are muscular, agile, and strong.

Louise had picked up a 50 pound (23 kg) bag of pellets, which were waiting for us when we arrived.  She dumped them into a giant trash bin with locking handles which we’ll keep indoors to avoid the baboons from getting into them. 

The baboons are very crafty and could quickly figure out how to unlock the interlocking handles.  Although many tourists “get a kick” out of seeing the baboons, they are an awful hazard and can tear up the interior (and exterior) of a house in minutes if they manage to get inside or on the veranda.

She was enjoying the pellets we’d left on the grounds surrounding the property.

It’s our responsibility to ensure they don’t get close to the house by not eating outdoors, feeding them pellets, or making them welcome in any manner. They are the only animals we’ll avoid in this Conservancy.  The others are more than welcome to stop by.

And stop by they have, especially after we began dropping the pellets, Hansel and Gretel style, while walking up and down the dirt driveway and around the house, scattering the pellets as we go. 

This was one view of her from the table and chairs on the veranda. As shown, we have two grills, one gas and another wood burning which we’ll take advantage of soon. Notice the chairs made of tires encircling the fire pit on the ground.

Well, wouldn’t you know, no more than an hour after we laid down the first batch of pellets, we had our first visitor, shown here today in our photos, a lovely female kudu?

Kudus may travel in groups referred to as a “forkl” or herd, particularly the females. The males are often loners, although they may be seen in herds of two, three, or more. We’ll share all of these instances as we move along.

At times, she stopped nibbling pellets and looked directly into our eyes.  What a sweet experience!

This morning as soon as we got situated at the long table on the veranda, I loaded up a plastic container with pellets to begin my twice daily “pellet dropping,” once upon awakening and another around 2:00 pm. 

Doing so should keep the visitors coming. Of course, we’re thrilled to be able to provide them with a bit of sustenance. Once they become used to our offering, they come by regularly during our three months in this house. Most likely, during our second three-month stint and beyond, we’ll repeat the same process, regardless of which holiday house we occupy in Marloth Park.

Although a little cautious near us, she wasn’t intimidated by the little rental car parked in the driveway.

We’d mentioned discussing our recent grocery shopping trip at the Spar Supermarket in Komatipoort. Not unusual in Africa, we had trouble finding some everyday items (to us) such as celery and Parmesan cheese. 

We spent US $317.08 (ZAR 3,760.88) at Spar plus, after the meat market, the biltong shop, a 12-pack of beer, three bottles of wine, and the total grocery bill to get us started was US $401.46 (ZAR 4,761.71). 

She was a lot bigger than she appears in this photo, although we suspected this female might be only one or two years of age.

We have enough beef, chicken, pork, and lamb on hand to last for the next two weeks, and we’ll only need to return to Komatipoort for vegetables and incidentals. We plan to return tomorrow to check out the Shoprite store to see if we can fill in the blanks for our upcoming planned recipes. 

Tonight, we’re planning dinner to celebrate Valentine’s Day at Jabula Restaurant and to arrange for my birthday party next week on Tuesday. It will be fun to return and see owners Dawn and Leon and get the party planning underway. I don’t want a big fuss. We’ll be hosting several appetizers and cake and utilize a cash bar for the drinks.

Our first helmeted guinea hen (take from afar, resulting in a little blur).

As for Valentine’s Day, we wish all of our family, friends/readers a very loving day filled with reminders about how to share this special day with those you love. We won’t have any trouble figuring that out around here!

Photo from one year ago today, February 14, 2017:

Cute restaurant in Franklin, Tasmania. For more photos, please click here.

Settling in…Settling down…Adapting to the heat and other little challenges…Biltong…


This is a typical street scene, with lots of trucks parked on the side of the road while the locals people stop in the various shops along the route.

Gosh, we’re happy here. The house is exceptional, perfect for us, with a plunge pool, a pool table, a comfortable bed and bedding, and the living room where we’ll spend most of our evenings nestled in the comfortable furnishings with the availability of a flat-screen TV (to which we can plug in our HDMI cord) to watch our favorite shows.

We couldn’t wait to buy “biltong” (jerky) in Komatipoort. It’s by far the best jerky we’ve ever had.  We purchased a bag of pork on the far left and a large bag of the traditional biltong, as shown in the center, for a total cost of US $17.29 (ZAR 206.23).  We don’t care for the greasy sausage sticks on the far right. There’s a shop owned by the Butchery, right here in Marloth Park, if we run out before heading back to Komatipoort.

There’s no dining room or dining table (space is taken up by the pool table), but we moved around a few side tables to make an ideal dining spot in the living room. This way, we can watch episodes of Shark Tank during dinner, if we’d like.

After selecting the type of biltong, we’d like the store clerk to grind it into bite-sized pieces making it easy to eat. Otherwise, the enormous amounts are too large to chew.

Louise and Danie, our friends and property managers, oversee the operations of many properties in the Conservancy and are on the ball for anything we may need. This morning we mentioned we needed an extension cord to be outside all day with our laptops. 

Within 20 minutes, they drove up to the house with a new, never-used outdoor reel extension cord. We couldn’t appreciate their thoughtfulness more, a scenario all of their holiday renters have enjoyed with the utmost in service and attention to detail.

Biltong hanging from a rack in the shop.

Now, as we sit at the long handmade wooden table on the veranda in the most comfortable padded chairs, we can relax, work on posts, future travel plans, and stay in touch with family and friends as we wait for Mother Nature’s African treasures to arrive.

If none come by today, before dinner tonight, we’ll take a drive around the park to see what we can find, a relatively easy task in the early evening, when wildlife come out from the shelter during the heat of the midday sun.

This batch is venison biltong which we don’t care for.

And hot it is…Today’s temperature is expected to be around 90F, 32C, and in the upcoming days, we could be looking at much higher temps. With air con units in the living room and bedrooms, we still prefer to be outdoors all day. So what if we’re hot and dripping sweat? 

It seems as if we’re already used to the heat, which we thought would be much harder to do after coming out of Antarctica.  Ah, Antarctica…we’re still reeling from experience and will for a very long time.

Next door to the biltong shop is the Butchery, where the finest cuts of meat are available at fabulous prices. We purchased six considerable pork chops, five large lamb chops, 4.4 pounds (2 kg) mince (grass-fed ground beef), and 6.6 pounds (3 kg) cheese sausages for a total of only US $55.30 (ZAR 660.14). In the future, we’ll purchase all our meat, pork, and chicken at the Butchery.

Sure, living in the bush in Africa has its challenges. Last night, we spent an hour dealing with ants in the kitchen after we’d prepared a simple meal of pre-cooked roasted chicken, green beans, and salad which we’ll repeat for one more night. 

Our way to shop in Komatipooert was reminiscent of seeing banana trees with blue plastic bags covering the growing bunches to keep the bugs and birds away.

Someone, perhaps a previous renter, had left a sugar bowl filled with sugar in the cabinet where dishes are kept. After dinner, I cringed when I saw zillions of ants scurrying about,  on all the dishes and all over the granite countertops.  

A small market where many of the local people shop.

We sprayed everything, and today Martha (pronounced Marta) washed all the dishes and the inside of the cabinet. Last night, I cleaned the countertops, sprayed the counters, and then rewashed the counters with water we boiled and soap to remove the residue from the insect spray. 

We are confident the ants will return, dealing with them as it occurs. Louise suggested we leave our dinner dishes for Martha to wash, but that’s not possible with the ants. Tom will continue to do the dishes while I do the cooking.

Tom, like me, was exhausted on the day we arrived, but we managed to unpack and go out to dinner.

And yes, we’ve found things that need to be repaired in the house; no hot water since we arrived; microwave not working; ice dispenser on freezer door not working, and items we regularly used not available in the kitchen cupboards. This is Africa, after all, not Scottsdale, Arizona. 

Phumula, the bush restaurant where we dined on Sunday evening.

Louise and Danie are so “on the ball” we have no doubt everything will be in working order within 24 hours. Danie came early this morning, after I was up and dressed, while Tom slept in and got the hot water working. Not that we minded taking cold showers these past two days as we adjust to the temperature differences.

My dinner of steak and prawns.  Grass-fed steak is often challenging. The price one pays for choosing this option. There were three prawns on my plate with heads still on. I had chilled white wine with my meal.

The water here comes from the Crocodile River, which is purified at a processing plant.  The locals are used to drinking it, but we won’t take a chance. Thus, the water dispenser in the fridge makes purified water, and we were provided with a large water dispenser. As soon as we run out of water, we’ll take the empties to the “water store” in Marloth Park to have them refilled for a nominal cost.

Tom had a side of mashed potatoes and gravy with this chicken schnitzel and for two beers. Our total bill was US $38.98 (ZAR 465), which we felt was reasonable.

As always, we’ll be back with more on life, living in the bush in South Africa, sharing the costs and details of grocery shopping, which presents particular challenges for my way of eating.

Have a glorious day! We plan on it.

P.S. As we’re about to upload this post, we have our first visitor. Photos were coming!

                Photo from one year ago today, February 13, 2017:

In Geeveston, Tasmania, We took this photo through the water-stained window to find this Black Faced Cormorant at the end of the dock. They stayed for a few hours in the rain. In Antarctica, we also saw these penguin-like birds. For more photos, please click here.

We made it to Marloth Park, South Africa!…Long travel day..Do we get jetlag?…

From the window of the small airplane on our flight to Nelspruit/Mpumalanga/Kruger. We’re excited to be back in South Africa.

We weren’t able to post yesterday when there wasn’t ample time between the three flights, taking us from Buenos Aires, Argentina to Sao Paulo, Brazil to Johannesburg, South Africa to Nelspruit/Mpumalanga.

Beautifully aligned farms are scattered throughout the savannah.

It was an arduous day, and by the time we made the hour-long drive in the little rental car from the airport to the holiday home in Marloth Park, we were both feeling like zombies. Neither of us had slept more than 20 minutes total during the flights and 24 hours.

When our plane landed at the tiny airport, we immediately headed to baggage, hoping our bags had arrived from Buenos Aires. When the last bag came through, we stayed calm and surprisingly unworried with no sight of ours. Asking the solitary baggage handler, we were told they’d arrive on another flight arriving in 30 minutes.

The time difference between Buenos Aires and South Africa is only five hours, but that’s enough to throw one’s biological clock into a frenzy of confusion. Once we arrived at the house, we unpacked a little, and both napped for 90 minutes. We decided to pay special attention to the time here, attempting to avoid jet lag.

The bags arrived on the next plane a short time later. In the interim, we picked up the tiny rental car. We barely fit all of our worldly goods into the little vehicle and were finally on our way.

It worked. Today, we’re fine, rested after sleeping over eight hours last night, and happy to be here in this beautiful home in this exceptional conservancy. After four years away from South Africa with many varied experiences in our wake, we’re indescribably content to be here.

The nicely paved two-lane highway made for a pleasant and scenic one-hour ride.

After awakening from our naps, we unpacked everything. By 5:30 pm, showered and finally wearing clean clothes, we headed out the door for dinner to the bush restaurant Phumula for dinner where we’d dined on a few occasions some four years ago.

Bird of Paradise, a commonly found flower in Africa.

The meal was fine, although not exceptional. But, we were still reeling from our drive through Marloth Park on the way to the restaurant, able to take many photos before the sun finally set, which we’re sharing with you today.

Our first wildlife sighting, last night around 6:00 pm on our way to dinner.

Based on the placement of the holiday home, the driveway, the lack of greenery due to lack of rain, we weren’t expecting a lot of wildlife at this time particular time. If not many come to call, we only need to take a two-minute drive to find wild animals that we’d come to love only a short four years ago.

We’d heard that there isn’t as much wildlife in Marloth Park as there was when we were here in 2013. They (the officials) had culled several breeds due to the drought. This morning our hosts, Louise and Danie, assured us that plenty of animals would visit us here. We must wait and be patient, and there’s no doubt they will come to visit us.

Impalas are rarely alone, and in the near dark, we spotted these two youngsters.

The last time we were here, it took a few days to see many visitors as if they knew humans were finally staying in the holiday home. In the interim, we’re content to continue to work on getting settled, cooking our meals, and driving through the park each day while sharing new stories and photos with you each day.

This morning, it was beautiful to see Louise and Danie once again. They are very special people, and we are grateful to have them among the other fine friends we’ve made here in Marloth Park. Their visit this morning meant the world to us. 

A male impala.

We all have so much to share about our lives, and we look forward to many get-togethers with them and all of our other friends over this next year we’ll be in Africa, living in and out of Marloth Park to satisfy visa requirements.

After they left to get back to work, Louise, a highly sought-after property manager/owner, and Danie, a home builder and renovation expert, headed to Komatipoort to grocery shop. Tomorrow, we’ll share details of our shopping experience, costs, and more new exciting photos of South Africa.

A burly wildebeest, the animals we saw in the Masia Mara in 2013 make up a large portion of the Great Migration. There are many of these large animals in Marloth Park.

When we returned from Komatipoort today, we were both shocked to see it was 5:00 pm. Tom hadn’t worn his watch, and my FitBit’s time has been wrong for months. With the many hour’s time change, it will take a little time to adjust our appetites to the usual dinner hours. Then again, each time we reach a new location, it takes a few days to adapt to the surroundings.

Be well. We’ll be back with more soon!

Photo from one year ago today, February 12, 2017:

Since we missed posting yesterday on February 11th, here’s the year-ago post from that date.  Below is the February 12th, the year-ago photo enabling us to be caught up. Here’s a meal we made in Tasmania which we’re looking forward to making again:  bacon-wrapped, hard-boiled egg stuffed meatloaf made with grass-fed meat; salads with red romaine (cos), celery, carrot, and homemade salad dressing; sliced cucumber sprinkled with Himalayan salt; steamed green beans and broccolini;  oven-roasted zucchini; good-for-gut-bacteria probiotic sauerkraut; and my favorite…No carb flaxseed and almond flour muffins topped with grass-fed organic butter.  Who says “low carb” dining isn’t healthy?  (The red bottle in the center of the table contains homemade ketchup). For more details, please click here.
 When we toured a winery in Tasmania, we noticed the chubby cheeks on this well-fed alpaca, who tend to store the grazed grass in their cheeks for a while. For more photos from today’s date, one year ago, please click here.

Off we go!…Busy day getting ready for our return to Africa…Final Expenses two nights in Buenos Aires…And, a new video of Elephant Seals as well as more new Antarctica photos…

 Elephant Seals is doing some serious power lounging in Grytviken, South Georgia, Antarctica. Check this out for a bit of humor.

Yesterday was one busy day. Not only did we have to open all the boxes we’d left behind to lighten our load for the cruise to Antarctica, but we also had to take out everything we own and repack it literally.

Thousands of Albatross nesting Steeple Jason Island in the Falkland Islands.

Then, we had to check the baggage weight limits for tomorrow’s flights, weigh the bags and move things around as needed. As it turns out, we’ve made it all work, but we will have to pay US $80 (ARS 1602) for our third extra bag. Each of our two main bags is within the 51 pound (23 kg) limit, give or take one kilo or so.

An attractive small iceberg with glacial ice and snow.

Then, we scanned all of our receipts, tossing the paper from the past 20 days since we left Buenos Aires for the cruise, including our cruise bill, transportation, and miscellaneous expenses.

A Humpback Whale, one of many we spotted in Neko Harbor.

From there, we paid our two-night Prodeo Hotel bill in cash (trying to dispose of our remaining Argentine pesos), prepaid by credit card our taxi fare for today’s ride to the airport at US $50 (ARS 1001) using a credit card. 

This left us with enough cash to tip the waiter for tonight’s dinner (cash only for tips) at La Cabrera (we decided we needed to go one last time) and a balance of about US $14 (ARS) for the tip for the taxi driver and possibly a cup of coffee and tea at the airport.  Perfect.

It looks like the King Penguin on the left is nesting an egg.  Or, could it be the chick is tucked underneath the parent’s feathers?

Alessandro, our extraordinary hotelier, printed all the paper documents we needed to have in our possession since we won’t have yet purchased a South Africa SIM card for our phones which included:
1.  Flight information
2.  Rental car contract and information
3.  Directions from Nelspruit/Mpumalanga airport to our holiday rental in Marloth Park. (It’s been four years since we were there, and we needed a refresher.
4.  The address and instructions for getting into the property in Marloth Park when we arrive between 11:00 am and 12:00 pm.

Rockhopper Penguins are so adorable.

Gee…we don’t like having to carry “zee papers” with us, but in this case, without data access, it made sense to us. We didn’t want to be fumbling around with our laptops or phones to find what we need.

During intermittent breaks from preparing yesterday’s post, I ran upstairs to our room, did a little more sorting, folding, and packing. When I returned Tom did the same. By 2:00 pm, we both went upstairs and weighed the bags using our portable scale. So far, so good.

We missed a better shot of this whale’s fluke.  But, when whale watching, one takes what they can get.

At that point I went online to attempt to prepay for the bags only to be given a notice see a pop-up announcing we can only check-in at the counter at the airport nor could we prepay for our luggage (50% off to prepay) which again must be done at the counter. This has happened many times in the past. 

This is frustrating. Why should we have to pay double when we were unable to pay for baggage online. We’ll certainly take this up with the rep when we get to the airport if they attempt to charge us the higher rates.

This Caracara looks ready to find lunch.

Trying to stay positive, we moved on to the next thing, putting together the expenses for this quick two-night stay in Palermo, Buenos Aires. Here are the totals:

 
Expense
 
US Dollar
 
Argentine Pesos
 
Hotel – 2 nights
 
$ 140.00
 
2802
 
Taxi
 
$ 50.00
 
1001
 
Dining out- inc tips
 
$ 82.50
 
1651
 
Misc
 
$ –
 
Total
 
$ 272.50
 
5,454.00
 
Avg Daily Cost
 
$ 136.25
 
2,727.00
“Orcas, or killer whales, are the largest of the dolphins and one of the world’s most powerful predators. They feast on marine mammals such as seals, sea lions, and even whales, employing teeth that can be four inches long. They are known to grab seals right off the ice. They also eat fish, squid, and seabirds.”

This morning we were up, showered and dressed early after a good night’s sleep. By 8:00 am, we were situated in the hotel lobby for a light breakfast of hard-boiled eggs, ham, and cheese. 

After all the whale watching trips we’d done on tours these past years, to see plenty in Antarctica was a dream come true finally.

Who knows when I’ll get to eat again? Airline food never works for me since the available options never fit my criteria. Oh, well, I’ll be fine. We’ll figure out something for dinner once we arrive in MP when we know we’ll be too tired to grocery shop.

We’ve received similar certificates on past cruises, such as transiting the Panama Canal, etc. We scan these rather than carry them with us.
We each received an Antarctica Explorer Certificate.
Sit tight, dear readers. We’re about to go for quite a ride, this time with more experience and an even greater passion for the world around us. Hop on board!

 Photos from one year ago today, February 10, 2017:

More than 400 pilot whales stranded themselves on a New Zealand beach on the evening of Thursday February 9.
Hundreds of pilot whales were stranded on the beach in New Zealand. at this time last year. (Not our photo). As we think about all the whales we saw in Antarctica this becomes all the more heart wrenching.  For more details, please click here.

Antarctica…Final photos, nearing the final wrapup…Our Killer Whales video…

 Killer Whales (orcas) in the Polar Circle.

It feels odd to be back in civilization after the 16 nights we spent at sea as our ship, Ponant Le Soleal, scoured the territory on its way to the Polar Circle in the Antarctic to provide its 193 passengers with an exceptional experience. And, exceptional, it was.

This is undoubtedly one of my favorite Chinstrap Penguin photos as she’s situated on the remarkable rocks to cool down on a warm day.
One of the Zodiac boats approaching the ship for us to board.

Now, back in Buenos Aires for the next 24 hours, we’re busily preparing to leave for Africa, I’m trying to shift gears from our previous penguin-minded adventures back to thinking in terms of giraffes, zebras, elephants, rhinos, lions and warthogs and more.

A face only a mother could love.

Transitioning from the vast amount of wildlife in Antarctica to Africa will be easier than it may have been, had we’d moved on to a less wildlife-rich country. 

Elephant seals lying in a ditch.

And yet, the memories will always linger on for this life-changing experience. Antarctica will remain in our hearts and minds forever. We could easily spend the next two to three months, sharing more of the thousands of photos we took during those 16 nights, 17 days.

A photogenic baby fur seal.

But, it’s time to move on to our next adventure, and we do so with enthusiasm and joy for the opportunities of the past and those upcoming in the future. Each and every leg of our year’s long journey leaves us with more knowledge, more understanding and more passion for this world, its people and its treasures that surround us.

A sea of penguins.
As a recap of our itinerary on the Antarctica cruise, please read below:
  • Ushuaia – New Island
  • New Island – Steeple Jason
  • Steeple Jason – Saunders the Neck
  • Saunders – Elsehul
  • Elsehul – Stromness
  • Stromness – Grytviken
  • Grytviken – Maiviken
  • Maiviken – Saint Andrews
  • Saint Andrews – Turret Point
  • Turret Point – Half Moon
  • Half Moon – Deception Island
  • Deception Island – Paradise Bay
  • Paradise Bay -Pleneau
  • Pleneau – Detaille Island
  • Detaille Island – Baie De Lallemand
  • Baie De Lallemand – Neko
  • Neko – Ushuaia
Total miles traveled:  3,695 nautical miles, 4,252 miles, 6,843 km
These types of caves are enticing. Wouldn’t it be fun to peek inside?
We move forward to the next phase of our journey, eternally grateful for the experience, for the good fortune in weather along the way and for the wildlife who gave us more than we ever expected.
Fabulous Chef Tony made us some incredible dishes while outdoors on the veranda.
Tomorrow morning, we’ll leave the Prodeo Hotel for the airport at 10:00 am. It’s about a 45-minute ride to the airport getting us there in the required two-hour window for international flights.
Happy little chick!
We’ll do a short post tomorrow with a few more new Antarctica photos and another short post the following day February 11th to announce our arrival in South Africa. From there we’ll return to our regular schedule of daily full-sized posts with Africa photos as we live among the wildlife in Marloth Park and of course, our wonderful friends.
Black-browed Albatross chick.
Penguins on an iceberg!

Photo from one year ago today, February 9, 2017:

Sailboats moored in the bay in Dover, Tasmania.  For more details, please click here.

Antarctica – February 8, 2018…Final expenses are here!!!…We’re back in Buenos Aires for two nights…

Killer Whales…we’ve yet to share the many photos and videos of whales and will do so over the next few days.

This morning’s short post: Due to a poor Wi-Fi signal at the airport, we’ll have to wait until we arrive in Buenos Aires later today to complete our post. Please check back later in the day for the final expenses. Thanks for your patience.

These Black Browed Albatross build these unbelievable nests for their chicks.

Now, since we’re back in Buenos Aires, a little pooped after so many action-packed days, I honestly don’t have much ummph to write much. I didn’t sleep more than three hours last night and have yet to have a bite to eat today.  

In a little while, we’ll make the walk to La Cabrera for our final dinner at the fabulous restaurant. Our mouths are watering over the prospect of the options available, and we look forward to a lavish sit-down meal. 

Gentoo Penguins in the thousands.

We mostly dined in the buffet with our group of friends during the cruise since we all found the variety much more appealing than the lesser menu options in the formal dining room.

Magellanic Penguins are on a mission to get to the beach.

It’s 5:30 pm.  We arrived back at the Prodeo Hotel about an hour ago, did a little unpacking, getting necessary toiletries out for less than two days until we depart for Africa.

Rock Hopper Penguin parent and their chick (they only have one), but a friend chick stopped by for a visit.

We decided to wait to have our laundry done in South Africa since there isn’t enough time to get it laundered and packed here. We planned to be packed by early afternoon tomorrow, leaving out comfy clothing for the overnight flight.

This Rock Hopper Penguin is one of my favorite photos.

I apologize for the repeat photos we shared only a few days ago. When I perused through all the photos, some of these came up as favorites. It can’t be helped. Plus, I’m reasonably bleary-eyed and couldn’t muster any creativity or enthusiasm right now to go through the several thousand photos we shot during that 17 days. Bear with us. They’ll be coming.

Us and our flag on  “real life'” ice bar in Antarctica.

We’ll begin to share our exciting whale photos tomorrow, although we did include one here today. Plus, we’ll be uploading a few unique videos we’ll finally be able to post on YouTube, which allows us to share them here.

Seeing that which Mother Nature provides is life-changing.

The flight today was good and pleasantly uneventful. It was fun to see all the beautiful friends we’d made during the cruise on the plane. Roundtrip airfare to Buenos Aires was included in the cruise fare.

They were toasting with French champagne on a sofa on an ice floe.

Speaking of the cruise fare, here you go…our final expenses for the cruise and incidentals. It was a hefty chunk for us, but we have no regrets. It certainly was worth all the sacrifices we made these past two years to make this possible.

Expense US Dollar Euro
Cruise Fare  $             34,500.00  $                27,945.00
 Airfare – inc in the cruise fare  $                                –
Hotel Buenos Aires – 2 ngts $                    140.00 $                       113.40
Taxi – paid by hotel  $                  $              
Cabin Credit  $                 (101.23)  $                      (81.00)
Wi-Fi on ship  $                   444.45  $                       360.00
Gratuities  $                   250.00  $                       202.50
Miscellaneous  $                    29.63  $                         24.00
Doctor visit on ship  $                  213.73  $                       173.12
Total  $             35,476.58  $                 28,899.02
Avg Daily Cost – 17 days  $               1,970.92  $                   1,605.50
The “ice bar,” the real deal on an ice floe in Antarctica.

No doubt, this was a lot of money to spend for this relatively short period. However, it was a once-in-a-lifetime experience, one we doubt we’ll ever regret or repeat.

Happy as we could be to share this blissful experience.

We need to get busy handling our complicated packing after storing half of our belongings here in boxes at the hotel. Tomorrow will be a busy day, but we plan to start it with a cup of coffee for Tom and tea for me, sitting in the hotel lobby, sharing more of this incredible experience with all of you.

Happy day to all!

Photo from one year ago today, February 8, 2017:

This adorable coffee shop in Southport, Tasmania, made us laugh. It appears to be a diving bell. For more photos from our road trip, please click here.

Antarctica…February 7, 2018…Rough seas update…A most unusual experience on an ice floe in the Polar Circle…Spectacular…

Both of us are raising a glass in celebration of this special occasion.

The Drake Passage continued to be rough, requiring we hold onto walls and railings when we walk throughout the ship with a degree of added difficulty while maneuvering in the cabin, especially in the bathroom and shower. Last night, the buffet where the 12 of us has dined together on most occasions was closed, and we had no choice but to eat in the main dining room.

I couldn’t resist lying down for this pose. How fun it was! We loved the sofa and a champagne bar on an ice floe in the Polar Circle.

Today, it’s settled down, and all dining areas will be open. However, this morning the ship continued to bob, occasionally jerk, and lurch from side to side. We haven’t heard anything from the bridge about the size of the swells or the speed of the winds, both of which we anticipate have been reasonably high.

Tom with icebergs in the background sitting on the sofa on the ice floe.

We’ve weathered it well with nary a moment of seasickness for which we’re incredibly grateful. Many passengers had no choice but to wear the seasickness patches or take medication to avert the uncomfortable sensations attributed to getting sick at sea.  But surprisingly, many passengers had no ill effects like us.

The wine steward, Laurent, served us French champagne.

Later today, we’ll arrive in Ushuaia, where the ship will spend the night. This afternoon, we’ll pack, leaving out enough clothing to get us through the next 24 hours. We’re baffled as to why the ship designated tonight as a “dress up” night when everyone needs to have their baggage ready for pickup around 10:00 or 11:00 pm. As a result, we’ll be casual tonight as usual.

It was fun to hold up our US flag on the ice floe.

Now, as the cruise winds down, I’m feeling a little sad to see it end. Without a doubt, this ranks in my top three experiences since we began traveling the world in October 2012. It’s an expensive once-in-a-lifetime adventure leaving us with photos, stories, and videos we’ll always regard as treasured memories.

The bar was set up on the ice floe earlier in the day, so everything was set and ready to go by the time we arrived.

We’re thrilled to be heading to Africa next since many other locations could be anticlimactic after this incredible experience. Africa won’t disappoint, and I expect we’ll handle the transition with ease, even with the vast difference in weather conditions. It will be hot for a while longer in South Africa during their hot and humid summer months. 

Tom was holding the “I crossed the Polar Circle” sign while sitting on the sofa.

Fortunately, we’ll have air conditioning in the bedroom, and we’ll spend most of our days outdoors on the veranda. As excited as we’ve been during this outstanding cruise, a slight tinge of excitement impacted me, knowing on February 11th, we’ll arrive in Mpumalanga, Nelspruit/Kruger, albeit very tired after the long flight with layovers, to commence the 90-minute drive to Marloth Park.

Both of us are holding the “I crossed the Polar Circle” sign.

We still have many Antarctic photos and videos we’ve yet to share. We will attempt to wrap them up while in Buenos Aires during our final two days in Palermo Soho while we reorganize our packing, get laundry done (we only hand-washed underwear on the cruise) and get ready upcoming long flight.

The sun was setting on the icy waters.

Tonight, we booked a table for 10 in the buffet for our final meal with our group of new friends.  We all prefer to dine in the buffet where the options are many and the food more appealing for all of us than in the main dining room with limited menu options. 

There is exquisite scenery at every turn.

Overall, Tom hasn’t been thrilled with the food (picky eater), but I found it suitable for my diet and don’t complain. As for food photos, I’ve yet to show many when food was the last thing on my mind during this adventure.

The sun was reflecting on the sea during daylight hours.

Today, we’re excited to share the photos of one of the most enjoyable events during the cruise, drinking French champagne, once again after a Zodiac boat ride, but this time, in the Arctic Circle on an ice floe, not while in the Zodiac as we shared a few days ago. This theatrical event left all of us reeling with sheer delight over the irony of the situation.

It was fascinating to see how the ship and Zodiac boats maneuvered through the ice-filled waters.

Who stands on an ice floe, sipping champagne? What an exquisite touch added to this magnificent cruise! We’re all still talking about it, along with all the other exceptional experiences we’ve had during this past almost 17 days and 16 nights.

Icebergs often develop into artistic designs.

Since we’ll be getting off the ship before 8 am tomorrow, this afternoon, we hope to have time to prepare tomorrow’s post with the “final expenses” to upload around our usual earlier time of the day automatically. We’ll be adding “favorite photos” in the two or three posts we’ll prepare in Buenos Aires.

A single Crabcatcher Seal on an ice floe.

If, for some reason, we can’t get tomorrow’s post done today, we’ll finish it once we arrive in Palermo later in the day. In other words, there will be a post tomorrow, but at this point, the exact time is up for grabs.

It has been exciting to see wildlife sunning on ice floes.
My knee has greatly improved after the ship’s doctor provided excellent medical care, and we’re both feeling well and ready to tackle this next leg of our journey.
Another Crabcathcer Seal was lounging on an ice floe.

Stay well. Stay happy and please, stay tuned for more. 

Photo from one year ago today, February 7, 2017:
A white sand beach in Dover, Tasmania. For more photos, please click here.

Antarctica – February 6, 2018…Wild seas in the Drake Passage…

We made a great video but won’t share it until we’re back in Buenos Aires due to the poor Wi-Fi signal.

Currently, we’re experiencing what is classified as Level 2 (of three levels) rough seas in the Drake Passage, which is known to be the roughest seas anywhere in the world. It isn’t easy to walk across a room and down the hallways.

My water glass flew off the table in the lounge on deck three. I’d decided against drinking tea this morning when the risk is too high for getting scalded. As I began preparing this post, there was only a handful of passengers in the lounge. We imagine the rest are in their cabins, preferring not to walk about the ship.

Seasickness bags are positioned throughout the ship’s public areas, as shown in this elevator.

Tom usually has a few poached eggs and bacon in the buffet each morning while I wait until lunch to eat. Most mornings, I join him and sip on herbal tea. This morning, I suggested he go on without me since it would take a little longer for me to get showered, dressed, and ready for the day based on the rocky conditions.

Taking a shower was challenging. Thank goodness there is a grab bar in the shower which I hung during the shower. I decided to forgo shaving my legs which I usually do daily. “Too risky,” I thought as I bounced around in the small space.

This photo was taken from our cabin balcony this morning.  It’s certainly wild!

I hurried, and by the Tom returned to the cabin. I was ready to go. We grabbed my laptop and headed to the lounge. As we sat on a sofa, we stared out the windows, stunned by the raging seas although we weren’t feeling seasick (thank goodness). Glasses and cups flying around, breaking with a loud crash, startling the few of us in the lounge on each occasion.

This 264 passenger ship (only 200 expedition cruisers are allowed to enter Antarctica) is considerably smaller than any cruise ship on which we’ve sailed over these past five-plus years.  It’s more like a luxury yacht than a cruise ship.

The seas continue to lurch unpredictably, making walking rather challenging.

As a result of the ship’s smaller size, we’re feeling the rough seas considerably more than we have during rough seas during any of our prior 21 cruises since the onset of our world travels, except for the trans-Atlantic crossing in 2013.

Are we scared?  If it gets to Level 3 within the next 28 hours or so until we arrive in Ushuaia on Wednesday (where we’ll spend one more night on the ship), it could be one rough and rocky ride. 

For a moment, it may seem calm, and then whoosh…there’s a giant swell powerful enough to knock us off our feet.

The cruise line had planned the extra overnight in Ushuaia to accommodate any delays in our arrival due to rough seas. It certainly makes sense for them to plan accordingly to prevent passengers from missing their flights.

At this point, we’re fine, not overly worried, and prepared to stay as stable as we possibly can.  We made a video and took these few photos of the rough seas, but at the moment, I’m having trouble holding onto my laptop on my lap and don’t necessarily feel like going outside to take more or better photos. 

The waves are splashing up to the 6th deck.

Based on the fact any videos we post here must be uploaded to YouTube, and with the signal is too weak to upload a video, we’ll save it for when we wrap up the posts from Antarctica once we’re on land.

We’d planned on posting other photos, but today, we decided to focus on this last leg of our journey through the Drake Passage as we head back to civilization. We’ll be back in touch soon. We’ll keep you updated.

May your day be safe and steady!

      Photo from one year ago today, February 6, 2017:

We were at the Geeveston, Tasmania Classic car show when we spotted this ’48 Chevy Fleetmaster, made the year I was born.  Gee., that car is old, and so I am! For more, please click here.

Antarctica – February 5, 2018…Pleneau…Check this out!…Amazing!…


There we were, sitting on a Zodiac boat in Pleneau Bay sipping on French champagne.  Was that ever fun!

The excitement keeps coming and coming. This exquisite ship and its staff go over the top to make this an exceptional experience for all of its passengers, even when circumstances may not be ideal. Based on languages spoken, all passengers are broken up into color groups, red, green, yellow with blue for us, with many of our English telling new friends.

Tom is taking a sip of champagne.

When announcements are made, the color groups are called, one at a time, to board the Zodiac boats.  On Saturday morning, we were scheduled to board a Zodiac at 7:00 am. After a rough start to the morning, we decided to wait and go aboard at the end of all the color groups. This proved to be a mistake.  By coincidence, we ran into new friends Marg and Steve, who’d had the same idea.

Now, we aren’t the type of people looking for special favors or expecting to be given alternate spots in a line. We patiently await our turn, regardless of the circumstances. With the ship’s careful planning to get each passenger a whole experience, when the last boat arrived, a group of 10 was taken before us, and we were told we wouldn’t be able to go. We’d missed our opportunity, and we headed back indoors to get out of the hot and bulky clothing.

All 10 of us on the boat were handed champagne flutes while Chris filled our glasses.

Within moments, the ship’s hotel manager Florent approached us, stating he would find a solution for the four of us to get out on the Zodiac for at least a 30-minute expedition of Paradise Bay instead of the planned 75-minute tour. We insisted it wasn’t necessary. It was our fault we’d failed to get to board promptly.

We waited patiently in the Main Lounge on deck three, not expecting it would work out. Voila! Florent and Cruise Director William made it happen. They didn’t want us to miss this special outing on the Zodiac boat. 
Chris, a high-ranking naturalist on board, drove the Zodiac boat and hosted the toasting of the champagne.

The four of us boarded the ten-passenger boat, and our driver took us on a superb tour of the area. As it turned out, the term was almost for an hour, and we were grateful, promising we’d never miss a scheduled time again, and we haven’t.

The champagne and flute carriers were loaded onto all of the Zodiac boats.
There have been no less than 15 landings and Zodiac excursions since the onset of the cruise.  I missed one early on when it was a steep climb when my knee was at its worst.  Instead, Tom went on his own and took excellent photos.
We were told we’d stay away from most of the icebergs, many of which could collapse at any moment.

As for all the remainder of the expeditions, we walked as much as I could, at times avoiding the highest and most challenging climbs. The doctor has said I could walk but not climb. 

A mushroom-shaped iceberg was much more enormous than it appears in the photo.

We don’t feel as if we’ve missed a thing. We took thousands of photos, experiencing exciting and unusual sightings fulfilling all of our goals in visiting our seventh and final continent, the vast Antarctic and its many wonders.

Our favorite bartender, Nick.  He’s quite a guy!

We’ve thoroughly enjoyed the people we’ve met, much of the food, the entertainment, and the conscientious and friendly staff, from the captain to the bartenders, including Nick, our favorite as shown in the above photo, to our cabin steward Ike, all of whom are highly savvy as to the utmost in customer service.

A Crbcatcher Seal was taking the plunge.

There’s a reason for paying the “big bucks” for this type of cruise, and it’s evidenced each day by extras and surprises planned to make our Antarctic experience all the more memorable.

Icebergs are so exciting and unusual.  This was massive, many stories high,

As shown in today’s photos, we all had an unexpected special event of being served real French champagne aboard our Zodiac when we toured Pleneau, known as the “graveyard for icebergs,” where many icebergs end up in this region based on prevailing winds and tides.
 
Seeing each individually unique iceberg stacked up in this area and being served champagne simultaneously made this an exceptional experience, as shown in today’s photo.
Crabcatcher Seals lounging on an iceberg.

Tom doesn’t care for champagne, so he passed his off to Marg, who happened to be on this ten-passenger boat with us (along with her husband, Steve). I wasn’t about to drink two flutes of champagne when it was still early in the day. 

Tom with his Antarctic sunburn.

Neither of us cares to drink any alcoholic beverages during daylight hours, finding it makes us sleepy and out of sorts. We wanted to feel great to continue to enjoy every aspect of this spectacular cruise, one we’ll never forget and realistically one we’ll never make again. For us, coming to Antarctica is a once-in-a-lifetime experience.

Although, we’ve met a few passengers who’ve returned a few times, including one glaciologist scientist, Adie, who’s made this her 9th and last visit. Indeed, she’ll be sad to say goodbye to this beautiful part of the world that some adventurers can’t get out of their system.

A passing Silver Cloud ship.
We have so much more to share, including numerous whale sightings and a ship’s party on an ice floe! Please check back!

Photo from one year ago today, February 5, 2017:

Late 30’s model Ford at an old car show in Geeveston, Tasmania. For more photos, please click here.