It’s all in the numbers…Laughing out loud…A day in the life…

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This was the first time we’d ever seen Guinea Fowl sitting in a tree.
“Sighting of the Day in the Bush”
Our first tree frog, most likely a result of the white foam tree frog nest, is shown in this post.

Yesterday was quite an enjoyable Sunday. We started the day with the post, uploading it by 11:30 am. With dinner guests the night before and Marta and Josiah off for the day, we tidied the house, put away the dishes, and swept the floors and veranda.

With the doors wide open all day and evening with no screens, many insects enter the house and are found wriggling around on the floor and elsewhere.  It’s a daily task to clear them off, usually sweeping them outside off the edge of the veranda.
They are sitting proudly on the tree while overseeing the pecking on seeds below.
With rain expected today, yesterday I did two loads of laundry rather than wait for Marta, which I’ve been doing regularly, leaving the towels and bedding for her to do on sunny days since she hangs everything outside. No one uses clothes dryers here in Africa.
I hesitate to hang the wet clothing outdoors on the clothesline when each time I’ve done so both in Kenya and here, I’ve been viciously bitten by insects in the grass in and around the clothesline. Instead, I hang the clothes on hangers and top of the granite countertops inside the house. In no time at all, they’re dry.
As soon as we tossed some birdseed on the ground, the Helmeted Guinea Fowl came running.
I decided to make a huge pan of roasted vegetables, saving all the fresh veggie scraps for the wildlife. Some will eat them; some will not.  Warthogs don’t like cabbage or lettuce but will eat zucchini and carrots but always prefer pellets. Zebras and kudus seem to like any fresh veggies along with pellets, of course. Always pellets.

Once the veggies were done cooking and cooling, I popped them into the fridge, and we were off to friends Lynne and Mick’s home to see their new thatched roof, stay for a short visit and say goodbye before they’re off to their home in Jersey, UK. 
The word got out, and more started coming from the bush.
Tom was out of cream for his coffee. By the time we left Lynn and Mick’s home, the little markets were closed. We didn’t want to drive the distance to Komatipoort just for cream. 
I suggested he try using some of my unsweetened coconut cream instead of the whole cream to see if he likes it. I use it in tea and find it rather delicious. Much to my surprise, he liked it and will use it in the future. This makes life a little easier since we can store many containers of coconut cream, which is shelf-stable, instead of whole cream spoiling in the refrigerator in a week or two.
There were about two dozen here, but more were lurking nearby.
Upon returning to our place by 4:30, we were in for a pleasant surprise. Dozens of Helmeted Guinea Fowl appeared in the yard, looking for a handout.  How quickly they learned that we now have birdseed. Ironically, as I write this now, they’re back!  I jumped up to fill the red cup with seeds and tossed it their way.
Clucking and pecking, they’re thrilled we’re tossing birdseed their way. Next time we head to Daisy’s Den, the feed store, we’ll have to purchase bigger bags of seeds.
Tom calls them Guinea Hens, making me laugh.  They cluck a bit like a combination of turkeys and chickens.
Last night, we had a bigger crowd of guinea fowl than we’d seen to date. We entertained ourselves for an hour while taking photos and tossing seeds. It may not sound like that much fun, but for us, it’s a pure pleasure. I don’t recall ever seeing four dozen wild turkeys in our yard in our old lives, but on occasion, we may have seen a dozen. This is fun.  Well, for us anyway.

At 5:00 pm, our next-door neighbor stopped by to ask if we’d like to join him at his house for “happy hour” at 6:15. His home has been undergoing some noisy construction work, and he kindly wanted to make it up to us with an invite. It hasn’t bothered us much (we never complained), and they’ll soon be done.

They fight and peck at one another over the birdseed.
At 6:15, we headed over to Ruud’s home and sat outdoors in lawn chairs on the grass with him. After the rains, the mozzies were on a rampage, and even with plenty of repellent on, I was getting bit, including on the bottom of my foot with shoes on! Since we’re not taking malaria pills, we tend to be more careful than ever.

Our veranda is approximately over one meter (about four feet) above ground level. As a result, it’s much easier for us to be outdoors all evening sitting at the big table, getting little attention from the insects. If we were to sit on ground-level dirt or grass, it’s an entirely different scenario.

One Helmeted Guinea Fowl are sitting in a tree.
By 7:00 pm, we returned to make dinner consisting of excellent leftovers from Saturday night. By 7:30, we were seated at the outdoor table, enjoying a delicious meal to which I added the roasted vegetables. We no longer watch a show during dinner since we began dining outdoors each night.

The sounds of nature are all we need to entertain ourselves.  After dinner and before bedtime, we wander indoors and may watch one downloaded show on my laptop.

And then, there were three sitting in a tree.
It’s an easy life in many ways. Knowing it will be like what we’ve shared in these past six weeks with occasional trips away gives us a sense of peace and comfort, coupled with the adventure of what is yet to come while we’re here.

Soon, we’ll begin planning our trips to other countries in Africa, but for the time being, we’re “living in the moment,” finding each day a magical wonder.

Please check back for more.  We appreciate every one of our readers!
Photo from one year ago today, March 26, 2017:
Our kindly and thoughtful landlord, Bob, with Tom. What a great guy! For more and the results of our immigration issues in Australia, please click here.

Hippo Day!…First time sighting since our arrival…Exceptional dinner party…

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At first, with the naked eye, we thought this was a rhino from way across the river. Tom looked through the binoculars while I zoomed in for a photo to delightfully discover it was a hippo, the first we’d seen since our arrival. That’s a cattle egret near their head.

“Sighting of the Day in the Bush”

Gecko on the orange wall at night.  Check out the “red-eye.” Where’s the tail?

With company coming for dinner and with most of the food prepped, we decided to take a drive to the Crocodile River since, after the rains, we’d hoped to see more wildlife.

 In my old life, I’d never have taken the time on a day company was coming for dinner when I’d be too busy to take a few hours for frivolities. This life is different, allowing me time and motivation to do exactly whatever strikes me at the moment.

We took off in the little blue car after stopping at the petrol station to add air to a low tire (which seems to be holding up OK), and off we went on the outrageously bumpy dirt roads that take us to the river.

Since hippos stay close to the water and the river so low recently, we hadn’t expected to see any hippos, not from Marloth Park or Kruger National Park.

It was hot, humid and the air felt thick.  Bugs congregated around us each time we stopped and got out of the car to scan the riverbanks for possible sightings. We stopped at the usual brick overlook structure but didn’t see a thing. 

A group of tourists relaxed on the tiered seating having lunch and drinks. It’s always busier on these roads and overlooks on the weekends when many South Africans from other areas flock to Marloth Park for a few days of “holiday fun” among the precious wildlife, often retreating from the “extra” humans in the park.

 We’ve noticed that generally, we have fewer visitors to our house on weekends. The only thing we can attribute this to is the added cars and people visiting. Could the wildlife prefer to stay “undercover” when there are so many humans milling about?

The hippo is responsible for more human fatalities in Africa than any other large animal from this site. The hippo is considered the most dangerous mammal in Africa. Male hippos actively defend their territories which run along the banks of rivers and lakes. Females have also been known to get extremely aggressive if they sense anyone coming in between their babies, who stay in the water while she feeds on the shore. Hippos can run at speeds of over 20 miles an hour, and they have enormous jaws which host up to 20-inch canines.”
I suppose the longer we’re here; we’ve become protective of this unique location, preferring it to stay natural and unencumbered with the likes of too many tourists coming and going, often staying for only two or three days.
Then again, the revenue generated by tourists is vital for many of the shops, lodges, and homeowners renting their properties to incoming tourists.

Sadly, some tourists ruin it for everyone, disturbing the quiet and easy flow of life in this veritable paradise for animal lovers and those seeking the serenity of this magical world, so far removed from everyday life.

We watched for some time, attempting to get a better photo of this hippo with a few oxpeckers on them, clearing off the insects.

As we drove along the river, eyes searching to the distant shore, we spotted something dark and mysterious across the river. Keeping in mind, we could be talking about a distance of up to one kilometer (.62 miles) from our vantage point, making photo taking with our less fancy camera a bit tricky to get a clear shot.

Tom maneuvered the car into a perfect place to park while we got out and walked through brush and grass to get as close as possible. Getting closer by 15 meters (50 feet) is nothing compared to the distance from the sighting, but we forged along anyway.

It was challenging to get a more explicit photo at such a distance, but we were nonetheless thrilled to get these photos.

The perception that moving even such a short distance closer would enhance the quality of our photos, spurred us on. Batting off flies and other insects, we steadied ourselves as much as possible to take today’s hippo photos.

We’d love to have seen more hippos like we had while in the Masai Mara, Kenya, in 2013. But, with the inaccessibility of the Crocodile River, we happily take what we can get, always thrilled in the process.  Here’s a photo of hippos we’d taken while on safari in Kenya:

We captured this “bloat” of hippos along the Mara River during our first hour on safari in Kenya in 2013.  Here’s the link from that date.

The above photo doesn’t in any manner make us feel, “Oh, that was then.  This is now.” Instead, we think in terms of our collective worldwide experiences. Africa presented these experiences to us. When?…is irrelevant, so it’s easy for us to revel in one hippo knowing we had the above opportunity long ago and perhaps will have more in the future.

Here’s another photo we posted on Tom’s birthday, December 23, 2013, of this glorious hippo at sunset as we crossed the Crocodile River:

As the sun went down, the reflection on this hippo in the Crocodile River on Tom’s birthday in 2013 was unique.  For the link from that date, please click here.
Yesterday, as we continued, we were breathless over other encounters on the road back to our property, photos which we’ll share in the next few days.  Each time we embark on a drive, we have few expectations, and, in one way or another, we’re always pleasantly surprised. This upcoming week, we’ll head back to Kruger, this time staying on the paved roads.

 As for last night’s dinner party of six, it was delightful.  Our friends Lynne and Mick and Janet and Steve were here for what proved to be a near-perfect evening. As always, the conversation flowed with ease, and the pace was low-key and stress-free. 
Each time we go to the river, the first animal we long to see is an elephant.  We’re seldom disappointed.

We were pleased they enjoyed our meal of mozzarella stuffed meatballs, topped with homemade marinara and two kinds of cheese along with a side of bacony green beans and salad. For dessert, we served ice cream bars and coffee with cream. After they left, at almost 11:00 pm, Tom had a lot of dishes to wash, but together we cleaned up and awoke to only a few things left to do this morning.

In yesterday’s post, I mistakenly mentioned Janet and Steve would be away for some time. As it turns out, they’ll be back in Marloth in no time at all, and we look forward to seeing them again soon. 

This big guy took water into his trunk and sprayed it on his back to cool off on a scorching day.

Lynne and Mick return to their home in Jersey (UK) for many months in a few days. We won’t see them again until November other than to run over to their home this afternoon to say goodbye and see their newly thatched roof (almost done). Later we’ll return “home” to some mighty fine leftovers.

Last night’s sunset, after our guests arrived, was hard to see through the trees.

That’s it for today, folks. Of course, we’ll always be on the lookout for more to share with each of you every single day! Have a great day!

Photo from one year ago today, March 25, 2017:

Volleyball competitors are warming up for tournaments in Manly, Australia. For more photos, please click here.

Halfway through our Marloth Park rental….Another dinner party for six…Back to my old ways?…

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From this site:  “Flapping the ears can express excitement and joy. This sound causes other elephants to prick up their ears and contact the first elephant. In turn, the beating of the ears on the skin can be heard. In hot weather, elephants use their ears primarily to cool down.”  We suspect it was cooling down with temps well into 40C (90F) when we took this photo.

“Sighting of the Day in the Bush”

This female kudu was comfortable eating carrots out of my hand.

This evening we’re having dinner guests only a few days before the two couples, Janet and Steve and Lynne and Mick, each takes off for their respective homes in the UK, staying for several months. We’ll look forward to their return!

In the interim, Kathy and Don are returning to Marloth Park in a week, and we’ll certainly enjoy spending time with them while they’re staying at their lovely home in Marloth Park. Linda and Ken will return in June or thereabouts, and we look forward to seeing them soon.

This is how it goes for many homeowners in Marloth Park, primarily based in other parts of the world, returning for one, two, or three-month stints a few times a year.

The first thing we look for when driving along the river is elephants.

Many South Africans have homes in other parts of the country, returning to Marloth as their part-time holiday home. Few rent homes, like us. Most own two or more homes, traveling back and forth between their various properties.

That life never appealed to us. We’ve wanted to be free to travel to wherever we may choose, at any given time. Did we contemplate having a home here, considering how much we love it? Perhaps for one second. 

But then, the thought wafted away when we realize we’re most fulfilled continuing on this path of life-on-the-move, one that works magically for who we are and who’ve we’ve become over these past years. Why change what’s working so well and for which we’re ultimately fulfilled and happy?

We spotted this elephant from the overlook shelter along the river a few days ago.

In the interim, Louise informed us, if we’d like, we can stay in this same house, named “Orange…More than Just a Colour” for our entire remaining year until we board a ship one year from today, March 24, 2019, leaving for the US for another family visit. 

We had a choice to stay in this house or move to another home. But, we like the house enough to stay another year, if Louise and the owners will have us.  We’ve offered to move out for specific periods if they find other renters willing to pay more. We can move on a dime! Louise assures us that’s unlikely.

How do we feel about staying in one property for such an extended period?  Surprisingly, quite good. Many animals have already come to know us and will continue to do so as time marches on. The house is comfortable (we only use the main floor) and has everything we can need.

Could this be a courting male and female?

Then, as we plan visits to other countries in Africa over this upcoming year, we’ll have a place to leave our stuff, packing only what we’ll need for the specific trip. This gives us peace of mind and makes these side-trips considerably easier.

This morning, up and at ’em early, I started chopping and dicing for tonight’s dinner party. Yesterday afternoon, I also did a little prep, making the remainder of today low-key and easy. 

Entertaining in this lifestyle is very different from our former lives. I put so much pressure on myself, planning elaborate meals and setting an elaborate table, often for many guests.

We often wonder about a lone elephant.  Is it a male that has been ejected from the family who now has to make his way in life, finding a mate, to later be off on his own once again?

I plan easy homemade meals that don’t require endless hours of standing in the kitchen in this life. There’s no need to make vast numbers of appetizers, side dishes, and desserts. No one here seems interested in desserts, so I don’t bake as I would have years ago.

The best part is I don’t feel bad about cooking less elaborate meals. I’ve changed so much over these past years, no longer striving to be the consummate hostess, finding simple, delicious meals is ideal in the bush, whether made in a pot or on the braai (barbecue).

The only thing I miss is linen napkins. The paper napkins sold in the area are small and flimsy. Nothing is more admirable than a cloth napkin for guests. I guess I have to let that go. 

Waterbucks at the Crocodile River. 

Soon, we’ll jump in the new little blue car and head to the local market to buy more paper napkins, bringing the camera with us as always, perhaps seeing “someone” special along the way.

It’s a good life here. There’s absolutely nothing that has disappointed us during these past six weeks since our arrival. Often, when people “return,” their expectations are so high they cannot be fulfilled. For us, Marloth Park is more exciting than it was four years ago.

Maybe we’re wiser, more tolerant, and with fewer expectations after what we’ve learned during these past years. We don’t fuss over the heat, the bugs, and the days when few visitors stop by. It’s all a part of living in the bush in this extraordinary place, unlike any other, anywhere in the world. We’re grateful.

May your day find you feeling grateful and fulfilled.

Photo from one year ago today, March 24, 2017:

It was four years ago today, on March 2, 2014, that we began posting this feature, “Photo from one year ago today.” a rare moment of a blue sky with rainy, cloudy skies day after day since we’d arrived in Fairlight almost two weeks earlier. For more Australian photos, please click here.  

A determined, compassionate and fearless woman…A lonely, abused and orphaned chimp…A story of love…

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Gail and Missy are in Liberia by the pool.

“Sighting of the Day in the Bush”

While at the “lookout” a few days ago, we spotted these four waterbucks on the Crocodile River, one male and three females.  Such beautiful creatures!

It’s not unusual for those of us who revere wildlife and conservation to have dreams of somehow “making a difference.” With the best of intentions, we may encounter opportunities to do so in small ways should we be in the right place at the right time and circumstances prevail.

Few are fortunate enough to have the passion and dedication to make such a dream become a reality. It requires a degree of willingness to “step outside the box” of our everyday lives, faced against the tremendous odds of bureaucratic interference, prejudice, and apathy, to make something magical happen.

Gail and Missy.

Gail Gillespie-Fox is just that person…in her boundless and fearless compassion and determination to have rescued bound-for-a-sorrowful-life-or-death chimpanzee in Liberia in 2013. No, we don’t mean rescuing in the sense of taking in orphaned Missy as a “pet,” as many supposed rescuers wrongfully assume what one must do.

Gail’s only objective, unselfishly in her love and many months of care for Missy, eagerly and relentlessly searched for a safe and loving means for Missy to live out her life in an environment of her kind. 

This is the first day Gail and Mark met Missy.

In Gail’s heart and mind, only a sanctuary where Missy could thrive, not as a spectacle of curiosity and revenue generation but as a member of a safe and natural habitat providing the utmost in care and love among other chimps would suffice.

The obstacles Gail faced in accomplishing this lofty goal were insurmountable.  Living in Liberia, the poor, war-ravaged country with then-fiance, Mark (now her husband), who was there on a work project, was an adventure Gail never anticipated in her otherwise traditional life as a citizen of South Africa.

Missy is in a makeshift backpack holding onto Gail.

Mark never faltered in his dedication to support for

Gail in saving Missy from a life of hunger, mistreatment, and possible death.  Together they created an impenetrable bond that beautifully remains today, now as residents of Marloth Park with their continuing compassion for wildlife.

Liberia has a plethora of problems after years of rebel warfare and political unrest. In 2003, a ceasefire was declared, but Liberia remains, even today, decades behind many African nations in its development and infrastructure, which only added to the challenges Gail and Missy faced daily.

Missy is learning to be a chimpanzee.

In 2014, during the time of the Ebola outbreak, a scenario of terrified and often unwarranted mistrust and fear of chimpanzees and apes was rampant.  They were wrongfully considered carriers of the deadly disease when it was the slaughter and unsafe handling of bushmeat that ultimately spread the disease.

Getting Missy out of Liberia became seemingly impossible when news of Ebola spread throughout the world and with it, the rumors of what and who was responsible for spreading the disease. 

Missy is in the car with Gail and Mark.

Through lack of factual data in the news (not uncommon, as we all so well know), the world too believed chimpanzees and other species in the ape family of animals were carriers and original perpetrators of the spread of the disease. 

Missy was frail and recovering after Gail and Mark returned to Liberia after a short visit to South Africa. They had no choice but to leave her in the care of others until their return to find her in this heartbreaking state. In no time at all, she was thriving with Gail and Mark’s loving attention and care.

This resulted in insurmountable obstacles in getting Missy out of Liberia to the safe habitat awaiting her in:  “Guinea, West Africa, within the Haut Niger National Park, the Chimpanzee Conservation Center (CCC) is a sanctuary established in 1997 to address increasing declines in chimpanzee populations due to the pet trade.”

There’s so much more than we can write about this special story of Missy.  Rather than providing spoilers for the heartwarming, educational and inspiring story Gail wrote in her book about this stunning struggle and profound outcome, “Her Name is Missy” is available for purchase here. 

Missy with Mogli, her stuffed toy chimpanzee.

As our readers are well aware, we don’t promote products for purchase within the framework of our daily posts. Today is the exception. We encourage our readers to purchase this easy-to-read, can’t-put-down book, beautifully described and written experience few of us can imagine. (We earn no portion of proceeds from the sale of the book).

This adorable photo of Missy makes one wonder what chimps are thinking?

When visiting Gail and Mark last Sunday at their lovely bush home and lodge, it was easy to see the joy in her eyes that will always be a part of the loving and compassionate person she is and will remain forever. 

Thank you, Gail, for sharing your story with our readers and us. It’s ironic that in this life we live of world travel, we are gifted with endless opportunities to meet those whose inspiring lives contribute to our experiences that we’ll carry with us forever.
A last-minute farewell gathering for Missy.

However infinitesimal or profound, finding a purpose is an essence of who we become, who we are today, and who we’ll be in the future. May we all find such a purpose.

Photo from one year ago today, March 23, 2017:

Walk along the esplanade near the Sydney Opera House. For more photos, please click here.

Cars, friends, a sliver of moonlight and a “dazzle” of zebras….

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This morning, in the rain, nine zebras stopped by for a visit and some snacks. It was delightful to see them a second time in our yard, although it wasn’t the same “dazzle” of zebras as the last time.

“Sighting of the Day in the Bush”

After eating many dry pellets, this zebra had the right idea, to lick the rain off the newest little blue car.  (See the story below)

The plan for today’s post had been to tell our peculiar “car story” and a little about last night’s special evening when Louise and Danie came for dinner. After a very much-needed rainy night and morning, we had an extra morsel to share that we’ve added to our story…nine zebras stopping by this morning for “breakfast.”

Big Daddy Kudu was blocking the view of the first little rental car.

Yesterday, when I was cutting up various vegetables to roast them as a side dish for last night’s dinner, I saved all the scraps hoping to share them with any animal visitors who may stop by. 

The nine zebras ate every last morsel this morning, including the carrots shown in Tom’s hands which I hurriedly cut up while he tossed out the pellets.

Tom was tossing out carrot chunks along with the pellets.

Well, then…here’s the little car story. Today is Thursday. On Monday afternoon, I noticed I had a Skype message from a South Africa phone number which was odd. We have a local SIM card in my phone and could receive phone calls, but we can’t even hear it ring for some bizarre reason. Our local friends reach us using “Messenger.”

This was the second little car they brought from Nelspruit, about a 90-minute drive to swap with the first tiny car.

We don’t keep our cell phones handy during the day until bedtime, when we both use them for late-night reading. As a result, we don’t give out the SIM card’s phone number when asked for a local phone number. Thus, the number we provided for the car rental facility in Nelspruit was our Nevada-based Skype number with a 702 area code.

Yesterday morning, they brought this little blue car which we’ll keep until the end of our three-month contract when we start all over again.  This car is the best of the three.  It has power windows and driver-controlled door locks, making it more user-friendly.

When I listened to the message, I was frustrated. They said they’d “sold” the little car, and we were supposed to bring it back to Nelspruit, where they’d give us a different vehicle. There was no way we were interested in driving for three hours (round trip) to accommodate their request.

When this zebra entered the yard at 9:00 am, we suspected others would follow, and our suspicions were correct…eight followed.

We have a contract that reads the car is ours until May 8. This same scenario had happened in 2013 when we were living in Boveglio, Tuscany, Italy. We received a similar call from the car rental facility in Venice, expecting us to drive five hours each way. 

All nine of them clamored by the veranda as we tossed pellets and vegetable scraps we’d been saving for this very purpose.

When we explained how far away we were and there was no way we were willing to drive that far so they could sell the car, they said they’d get back to us. That call never came. We returned the car when the contract ended. See our story about that scenario here.

The baby in this dazzle is shown in the back.

We expressed the same sentiment to Thrifty Car Rental in Nelspruit on Monday. They agreed to deliver the car on Tuesday morning around 9:30 am. At 10:00 am, their driver appeared with new documents in hand and a slightly bigger car. Tom checked the vehicle for dents and dings, signed the paperwork, and the driver took off in the little original vehicle.

Zebras are good at making eye contact.

We decided to take our usual almost daily drive through the park to see what we could find a short time later. As we drove the bigger car, we noticed that the air conditioning was blowing hot air. At that point, it was 95F (35C) and very humid. The AC wasn’t working. 

Well, we don’t particularly enjoy driving around in that type of heat. It’s one thing to sit on the veranda and manage around the house on such a hot day, but it’s an entirely different scenario, doing so on dusty dirt roads if we don’t have to.

One of the girls was walking up the steps, which were slippery in the rain.  She jumped off quickly when she started to slip and slide.

Yes, we’ve been to many places throughout the world in extreme heat without AC. But, there was no way we’re going to accept a car for which we’ve already paid that included AC.  We drove back to the house, called them again, and reported the facts…no way would we accept a car without AC. 

A little affection was displayed between these two zebras.

We were nice. They were nice. As shown in a few of today’s photos, they brought us the third car yesterday morning, the little blue car. It’s the same or similar low-end vehicle but slightly newer with excellent working AC, power windows, and driver-operated door locks, all of which are quite a treat for us.

We took it for a drive to the river in the afternoon (photos of which we’ll share in a few days) and couldn’t have been more thrilled with the few upgrades. Problem solved. Happy customers.

The baby also tried climbing the slippery steps.

As for last night, spending time with Louise and Danie was, as always, perfectly delightful. Since they are always doting on us, we wouldn’t let them do anything, although Louise had a tough time not carrying in the dishes. Such good company.  Such a good night and a sliver of moon, as shown in the photo below, with promises of what is yet to come in nights down the road.

This morning, when Josiah washed the now very dirty veranda after the rain, the mud was strewn about from our nine rambunctious visitors. We decided to get out of our way to go shopping for Saturday night’s upcoming dinner for six.

Last night’s sliver of moonlight before the cloud cover and rainstorm.

We were back by noon. We put away most of the groceries but soon, once this post is uploaded, I’ll head back into the kitchen to start washing the produce and sorting a new container of vegetable scraps for the next batch of visitors. Who that will be, we can’t guess, but we’ll wait with bated breath for whoever may choose to grace our day.

Happy day to all!

Photo from one year ago today, March 22, 2017:

Bob explained this single red bloom, a type of lily, is growing out of season. For more photos from Fairlight, Australia, please click here.

The falling leaves make us sad…Today is the first day of fall in South Africa…Socializing galore!!!…

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I was indoors preparing dinner while Tom noticed this mongoose digging a hole in the yard.

“Sighting of the Day in the Bush”

A grasshopper we found on new friends Janet and Steve’s veranda. Four years ago, we’d written a story with photos of hundreds, if not thousands, of grasshoppers in our yard. For videos and details, please click here.
Today, south of the equator, it’s the first day of fall. This morning, out on the veranda as always, we both noticed leaves falling from the trees and low-lying brush. 

Perhaps we noticed the leaves falling to the ground in the gentle warm breeze simply due to our awareness that fall has arrived. As we mentioned in earlier posts, fall and winter may not be good times for the wildlife in Marloth Park, most of whom are dependent upon the green vegetation on the trees, plants, and bushes.

It appeared they might have found something.

We’ve never been here in the fall. Four years ago, we left on February 28th while summer was in full bloom. February is comparable to August in those countries located north of the equator.

Of course, today is the much revered first day of spring when those living in cold climates jump for joy at the prospect of warmer weather for our family and friends in Minnesota.
More digging.

There’s no shortage of warm weather here. Today is expected to reach 95F (35C), dropping to a high of 79F (26C) tomorrow for a huge weather change. That’s South Africa for you. But, it’s these big weather variations that affect foliage.

In our old lives, we’d never stay all day and evening outdoors with temperatures in the 90’s. But, here it’s the course of life in the African bush. The locals have adapted, and we have as well. The only air con we use is in the car (a must) and while sleeping.
Francolins are commonly found in the bush.  They don’t fly much but are fast walkers and very noisy.
We’ll watch and see how winter in the bush will be for the wildlife, hoping only for the best for them while praying for rain. Winter is the dry season in this part of the world.
This week has been and will continue to be a busy social time for us. Sunday, we visited Gail and Mark (their story will be posted on Friday). Last night, Wednesday, new friends and neighbors Sandra and Paul (two doors down on the right) came for 5:00 pm happy hour and stayed until almost 10:00 pm…we had a blast!
Helmeted Guinea Fowl often hang around the yard.

Today, Wednesday, our dear friends  Louise, and Danie, who happen to be our property managers, come for dinner. On Saturday,  Janet and Steve (whose home we visited for dinner a few weeks ago) and Lynn and Mick are coming for dinner, with both couples leaving Marloth Park at the end of March, who’ll be gone for a few months, later in the year. We’ll see them all again since we’ll be here (in and out for visa purposes) until March 24, 2019.

On April 2nd, we’re attending an Easter party at Kathy and Don’s MP home on the Crocodile River, after they’ll have been staying at one of their other homes located in Pretoria, South Africa, returning to Marloth Park for a while. Surely, we’ll socialize regularly with that wonderful couple as well.
It appears there are more ostriches in Marloth Park than four years ago when we were here. We’re enjoying everyone we encounter.

Friendly, fun, and welcoming people have taken us into the fold of their social lives as many come and go between other homes in other locales, often other countries. We’re looking forward to Linda and Ken returning in a few months for plenty of good times with the two of them.

When we look back at all the countries, we visited where it wasn’t easy to make friends. We’re so grateful to be here among our human and animal friends. Last night, during our fun evening. Big Boy (warthog) stopped by to check out the pellet situation. 
 At “our house,” the pellet situation is good and will remain so regardless of our social activities, the time of the day, and of course, the season of the year.
We spotted these two zebras on the side of the road on our way to the market.

Today’s heading reminded me of Nat King Cole’s song, “The Autumn Leaves,” a favorite song of many of his fans.  Here’s the link to the song on YouTube with the beautiful lyrics below:

“The falling leaves drift by the window
The autumn leaves of red and gold
I see your lips, the summer kisses
The sun-burned hands I used to hold

Since you went away, the days grow long
And soon I’ll hear old winter’s song
But I miss you most of all, my darling
When autumn leaves start to fall

Since you went away, the days grow long
And soon I’ll hear old winter’s song
But I miss you most of all, my darling
When autumn leaves start to fall.”
May you have an exceptional season, whether today is the beginning of spring or fall for you.
Photo from one year ago today, March 21, 2017:
The sun peeked out for a few hours while we were in Manly, Australia making our way to the ferry to head to the immigration office regarding our “illegal” status. For more details, please click here.

The neighborhood in Marloth Park is even more charming than imagined…Our visit to Daisy’s Den…

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The bird feeder with two sections, into which we placed the two different seeds. So far, no birds. But as they say with bird feeders, one must be patient. 
“Sighting of the Day in the Bush”
We visited Gail and Mark on Sunday to discuss a story we’ll be posting later this Friday about the stunning and heartwarming book Gail wrote, “Her Name is Missy,” of their time in Liberia during the worst of the Ebola epidemic and her heroic rescue of a chimpanzee named Missy.  Please check back on Friday for the story.  We loved seeing the birds they feed at their home and holiday lodges across a small river road.  The visit prompted us to purchase a bird feeder and seeds.
Yesterday afternoon, we decided to purchase a bird feeder after our Sunday afternoon visit to Gail and Mark Fox at their holiday lodge and a lovely home overlooking the Crocodile River in Marloth Park, as we flipped over all the birds that visited their property.
 
After our exceptional experience with birds at our holiday home in Costa Rica many months ago, we were thrilled with the idea of attracting birds to our Marloth Park holiday home.
This decorative fountain is outside the door of Daisy’s Den, a feed store in Marloth where we purchased the bird feeder and seeds.  The owner told us that some patrons would try to shut off the water!  Hahaha.
Once Josiah arrived to wash the veranda and clean the pool, during which we always get out of the way, it was a good time to hop in the little car to head to Daisy’s Den, where Mark and Gail purchase their seeds and supplies.
Daisy’s Den and Wildlife Centre carries a wide array of animal feed and outdoor and indoor products appropriate for life in Marloth Park.
Our lives aren’t always about the “big things.” We often find great interest and joy in the “small things,” such as in our visit to Daisy’s Den. Tucked away at the end of one of a few shopping areas in Marloth Park, we remembered this shop from four years ago where we purchased pellets during our three-month stay, which at the time had different owners.
 
Now with Mark (not Mark Fox) having purchased the property a few years ago, we were delighted to make purchases in the well-stocked and organized shop in an attempt to support local businesses. This is always very important to us.
Another Mark has owned the popular shop for the past few years with his son John working with him.
Sure, at times, prices may be higher in local shops than those in the bigger cities and towns. Still, when considering time, fuel and convenience is often a priority to us to play whatever small role we can in not only buying products from local shops but also in writing a little about them in the process, as in today’s story.
 
Marloth Park is a small town, a Conservancy, distinct in its wildlife, people, and politics. We chatted with owner Mark and his son John, both of whom we’d met at the snake handling course on March 10th. At the time, we had no idea they owned Daisy’s Den and were delighted to see them again.
Daisy’s Den also carried handmade crafts, many made by locals.  We spotted Gail’s book, “Her Name in Missy,” also for sale in the charming shop.

Yes, even in this remote natural setting, politics becomes a factor among many of the locals.  Opinions vary on how this unique environment should be managed and handled, and at times, like most townships, not everyone agrees.

The shop carries a few items found in a pharmacy (including a few souvenirs) since it’s a long drive to the pharmacy in Komatipoort.
However, during our overall year in the park, we choose to stay out of local government and its highly charged politics. We’re here to learn about the wildlife, enjoy the companionship of the local people and immerse ourselves in other areas of Africa we’ll visit from time to time.
There are household goods and a variety of lawn and garden chemicals and products.
We thoroughly enjoyed our time at Daisy’s Den but w we were anxious to get back to our holiday home to hang the bird feeder. Although there’s a ladder here, I discouraged Tom from using it.  Instead, he used a long pole he’s been using to scare off the baboons and gingerly placed the feeder on a branch, as shown in the above photo.
We purchased two types of seeds hoping to attract a variety of birds.
In no time at all, the feeder was situated on a tree close to the veranda with easy viewing from our usual spots at the big table. We won’t miss a thing. Hopefully, soon, we’ll be able to enjoy more bird visitors than we’ve seen flying through the bush thus far. We’ll see how it goes.
We purchased the wooden bird feeder and two bags of seed at the cost of ZAR 215 (US $17.94). We couldn’t wait to get back to set it up.
Sharing our stories and photos along with way enhances our experiences in a way no words can describe. We only hope our readers continue to enjoy the less-than-astounding aspects of life in the bush, the small stories, and the simple pleasures that we encounter almost every day.
Located immediately next door to Daisy’s Den is Mark’s wife Tracy’s sewing and embroidery shop.
May your day’s simple pleasures bring you much joy.

Photo from one year ago today, March 20, 2017:

Painted performers at Circular Quay in Sydney, Australia. For more photos, please click here.

Health update…Figuring out solutions…

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A kudu was nursing her baby in our yard.

“Sighting of the Day in the Bush”

A White Helmetstrike perching near an unknown species of a blackbird.

Since we settled in South Africa, we’ve had many of our readers inquiring as to how I’ve been feeling after the awful knee injury in Buenos Aires and my continuing gastrointestinal issues. We both appreciate the inquiries and concern, constantly feeling our readers are so kind and in touch with what’s going on with us.

First off, I don’t particularly appreciate sounding like a medical mess. Who does? We all prefer to present a degree of health and wellness when we’ve made a concerted effort to be healthy, taking a certain amount of pride in good results.

One of many in the area, this termite mound s over 2 meters (6 feet) tall.  A variety of animals eat the termites from the mound.

In a perfect world, we can waft into “old age” with a modicum of good health. However, due to heredity, history and past injuries, many of us are plagued with certain conditions that, regardless of how hard we may try, continue to be a presence in our lives. Most of these “conditions” so to speak, only worsen as we age.

Since we began our travels almost 5½ years ago, I’ve been subject to three health situations, that regardless of how hard I tried, had to be dealt with the best way I could:  one, the problem with my gastrointestinal health from eating octopus in Fiji on Christmas Day, 2015; two, the injury to my spine in the pool in Bali which took five months to fully heal (no recurring problems); and three, the injury and subsequent infection in my knee from a fall in Buenos Aires in January, 2018, (since fully healed).

Ms. Warthog rolling around in the hay pile.

The only remaining issue has been gastrointestinal which initially became a case of H. Pylori (Helicobacter Pylori), gastritis and eventually ulcers which have plagued me consistently for over two years.   

The H. Pylori resolved after having had a blood test in Tasmania and being prescribed the usual “triple therapy” of significant doses of two types of antibiotics and a proton pump inhibitor (PPI).  In many cases, even after this extensive treatment, one can end up with ulcers, which may require the continuation of a PPI indefinitely.

A  single mongoose gets an egg.  We purchased a container of 60 eggs for this purpose.

As a result, when I stopped taking the PPIs (omeprazole) while we were in Costa Rica I still was experiencing ulcer pain and knew I had to continue them for an extended period which is now over six months ago. 

After reading about serious side effects of taking PPIs long term, I’ve been determined to stop taking them when I wasn’t explicitly feeling any ulcer pain although I still had bouts of bloating, discomfort and other symptoms you can well imagine which can be a result of side effects of the pills. 

These tall cone-shaped structures act as scarecrows to keep birds away from banana trees.

Recently, I decided to stop the PPIs and see what happens. Now, that we’re settled here in South Africa and not traveling until May, this was a good time as any. 

As it turns out, stopping long-term (or short-term) treatment with PPIs causes a “rebound effect.”  The gastrointestinal tract has been signaled by the drugs to stop producing stomach acid. Without adequate stomach acid (hydrochloric acid, HCl) food is difficult to digest, causing bloating, pain and diarrhea,  constipation or both. It’s a catch 22.

With the grounds of our rental consisting mainly of low-lying bush, we don’t expect giraffes to come into the yard unless they wander down the dirt driveway. Giraffes prefer to graze where they don’t have to be continually ducking trees and branches. Subsequently, we drive around Marloth Park to find them.

Two weeks ago yesterday, on March 4th I abruptly stopped the pills. A week passed, no pain, no issues. During the second week, the burning started which I must admit has been almost unbearable. The reason for this is, without the drug, the stomach begins pumping excessive amounts of HCL to compensate for the lack of the drug. With the way the pills are made, there’s no way to taper the dose.  

Eventually, the amazing body will generally correct itself and a normal and adequate amount of acid will be produced, sufficient enough to handle the assimilation and digestion of food. Via comments on many medical sites, this process can take from two to six months to fully resolve.  I’m two weeks in.

Francolins often visit us.  They are shy, run very fast, fly very little and make lots of noise during the day and early evening.

It hasn’t been easy but I have to stick with this. After seeing three doctors for these issues in Tasmania, all with varying opinions and treatment options, I felt getting off this drug is of utmost importance, especially since I no longer feel any specific ulcer pain. 

The burning sensation of the excess acid my body is pumping to compensate for no longer shutting down acid production from the medication, comes and goes throughout the day and night. In the past week, I haven’t slept more than five hours at night and often find myself pacing in an attempt to stop the discomfort.

We may not see them each time we take a drive but we’re always thrilled when we do.

Nothing I eat or drink makes any difference although I am trying a low acid, bland diet within the framework of my usual way of eating. Last night, I had mildly seasoned sauteed liver, onions, mushrooms and steamed vegetables for dinner while Tom enjoyed homemade low carb pizza.  We’ll have leftovers tonight.

Hopefully each day it will become a little easier. I’m hoping it won’t require the two or more months to work itself out. In the interim, we’re staying upbeat and busy with many social events and activities, all of which are a good distraction. 

We’ve only had one wildebeest visitor to date but have seen others in Marloth and Kruger.

No words can describe how much I’m looking forward to being free of this. But there’s no better place to be during this time…loving life in Marloth Park, among our animal and human friends, all of whom provide a plethora of “feel good” hormones that certainly aid in the recovery.

So, there it is dear readers, the answer to the thoughtful inquiries many of you have kindly sent our way, the answers in one fell swoop. Tom, as usual, is lovingly supportive and has the uncanny ability to keep me laughing, living in the moment and looking optimistically to the future.

Vervet monkey are prolific in Marloth Park and are considerably less destructive than baboons.

May each of you enjoy good health and a sense of well-being. As we all know, above all else, nothing is more important than making every effort to maintain good health.

Photo from one year ago today, March 19, 2017:

Cloudy night at the Sydney Opera House when we attended an opera we’d booked well in advance for excellent seats. For more photos, please click here.

Part 2…Harrowing, exciting and frustrating day in Kruger National Park…A staple gun dictated “safari luck!”

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This baby zebra leaned into mom as we stopped for a photo. For all we knew, we could have been the first humans she’d ever seen.

“Sighting of the Day in the Bush”

Shortly after we returned, several kudus stopped by to say hello.

To make heads or tails of today’s story, it is essential to read yesterday’s post, which may be found here. Today’s post is a continuation of our harrowing and yet exciting day in Kruger National Park, and yesterday’s post explains the comment in the heading, “a staple gun dictated “safari luck…”

In one of yesterday’s closing paragraph’s we wrote: “But tomorrow, we’ll share the balance, a story of making mistakes, taking wrong roads and choosing a ridiculous shortcut that only cost us more time and frustration, all of which we must admit, was softened by this scene of the elephants…”,

Zebras and baby were wandering down the dirt road.

And mistakes we made that day, one of which was venturing out on those awful dirt roads in a highly unsuitable little car which was designed to take the battering of the washboard roads, not unlike its passengers during the harrowing drive.

At several points on the dirt roads, we heard a rattling in the car, even at the low speeds we were traveling, that sounded as if something was going to fall out or off of the vehicle. 

A male zebra posing for a photo.

We both stayed as calm as we could but were thinking the same thing…what if the older little car broke down and we were stranded on this remote road?  Yes, we had a SIM card in my phone, which was almost fully charged (the phone charger outlet in the car doesn’t work).  And there was an emergency phone number we could have called in the back in the park’s map book.

But, the thought of sitting in a broken-down rental car waiting to be rescued was not appealing to either of us.  Even while Tom slowed to a snail’s pace, the rattling continued. So we continued, stopping only when we finally made it to the gate after driving for hours, to travel the mere 60 km (37 miles) to reach the Malelane Gate. Turning in our paperwork and getting on a paved road couldn’t have been more of a relief.

After we spotted the elephants crossing the road after we’d decided to head to the Malelane Gate when the Crocodile Bridge was blocked for hours by a stuck boat trailer, we encountered this lone giraffe.

We’d never entered or exited Kruger at the Malelane Gate. We hadn’t been to Malelane since our arrival in South Africa over five weeks ago. Four years ago, we had a great dinner there while chickens wandered about the interior of the restaurant. We remembered that about Malelane. (See that link here from December 22, 2013)

Once outside the gate, we watched for roadsigns indicating how to return to Marloth. We saw one sign that read Komatipoort, and that seemed the right direction for us.  Somehow we missed the sign for N4.

A warthog family on the rough dirt road on the way to the Malelane Gate.

After the awful drive, we were exhausted and distracted.  Plus, there are very few road signs that point to Marloth Park. Why we stayed on the main highway R570, we’ll never know, when in fact, we needed N4.

We drove for over 32 km (20 miles) one way in error before we realized, in the pouring rain, that we didn’t recognize any of the names of upcoming towns such as Pig’s Peak and Jeppe’s Reef.  We’d driven almost to Swaziland! We had to backtrack the 32 km to return to Malelane to get to N4 and Marloth Park.

This warthog appears to have been rolling in mud as she hangs out with male impala.

Suddenly, it dawned on me that we did have a map in the glovebox. Oh, what a day! For some reason, we thought we only had maps for Marloth Park and Kruger. In checking out the map, we realized our error.

We noticed on the map that we’d pass Hectorspruit, a small town between Malelane and Marloth. Big mistake! Once on the road heading back N4, we encountered a sign indicating a route to Hectorspruit, a shortcut, according to the map.

The rough washboard road seemed as if it would never end. It took us hours to get out of the park.

If we thought the washboard dirt roads in Kruger were terrible, we were in for a big surprise. The road from R570 to Hectorspruit to N4 was, by far, the worst paved road we’d ever driven on of all of the above. 

Talk about potholes!  There were deep potholes every meter (every few feet), many we couldn’t see until a tire dropped into one after another, with nowhere else on the road or the shoulder to drive, and for us, after the harrowing day, no turning back.

More elephants were spotted at quite a distance.  We continued on the road.

During that horrific half-hour drive, we bounced, rattled, and practically rolled in the pothole clusters that occupied the entire road. Only our friends and readers in this area can grasp the severity of this road had they ever had the misfortune to travel on it.

 Yes, we know this is Africa, and indeed, our comments aren’t tendered as complaints. However, they are tendered as to our failure to find our way back to Marloth Park more diligently.

A few more elephant photos we’d yet to share in yesterday’s post.

Finally, we reached N4 and easily found our way back to Marloth Park. By the time we pulled into the driveway, it was almost 4:30 pm. We’d yet to put a dent in the day’s post. We still had to shower again and clean up to go out to Jabula for dinner as intended.

We decided to ditch our dinner plans, stay in and make bacon and eggs for dinner (nothing was defrosted), and spend the evening on the veranda. At one point, the much-needed rain and wind drove us indoors. But a few hours later, we had finished and uploaded the post, cooked our feeble dinner, and were able to dine outdoors during the balance of the soaking rain.

We couldn’t believe how many there were, as many as 30 to 40.

Whew!  We were grateful we’d seen the elephants crossing the road, which most certainly softened the blow of the remainder of the day. We’re curious about when and how they got that boat and trailer stuck on the Crocodile Bridge moving again. If you’ve heard anything, please let us know.

Last night in celebration of St. Patrick’s Day (Tom is Irish), we headed to Jabula for an enjoyable evening, running into friends, making new friends, enjoying the chatter with owner Dawn and helper Lynn, suddenly finding ourselves retelling this story, only to find locals practically rolling on the floor in laughter over our mishaps on the road.

A hornbill in a tree.  We spotted dozens of hornbills in Kruger.

We’re both easily able to laugh at ourselves and laugh we did along with everyone else.  Could the complex parts of these scenarios have been prevented? Should we have waited at the Crocodile Bridge for what may have been hours to have been able to get through? We’ll never know.

Should we have paid more attention to where we were in the rainstorm when we exited the Malelane Gate? Sure. Should we have avoided the pothole detour and driven further back to Malelane to get to N4? Absolutely.

A lone male impala stares as we pass by.

So here’s our story, folks. Today at 2:00, we’ll visit the home of locals we’ve met that have quite an account to share, which we’ll be posting here in a few days. Tonight, on this perfect weather day, we’re making pizza and look forward to dining on the veranda while we wait for visitors to stop by.

Happy day!

Photo from one year ago today, March 18, 2017:

Visitors were sitting on the steps of the Sydney Opera House, enjoying the view. We had taken the Manly Ferry to come to see the opera we’d booked but arrived one day too early. At that point, we were preoccupied with our illegal immigrant status, possibly attributing to the error. Thank goodness it wasn’t one day too late. For details, please click here.

Part 1…Harrowing, exciting and frustrating day in Kruger National Park…A staple gun dictated “safari luck!”

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Upon approaching this scene, we weren’t quite sure what was going on.

“Sighting of the Day in the Bush”

Vultures in a tree in Kruger are on the lookout for a meal.
Vultures were relaxing after a meal in Kruger.
After working on yesterday’s post for only a short while and, with the sun shining on a cooler day, we said, “What the heck! Let’s head out to Kruger for a few hours and see what we can find! We’ll finish the post when we return by 1:00 pm or so.”
By 10:00 am, we were on the road. On our past entries into Kruger, we found two to three hours was plenty of time to see some wildlife, take photos, and return to our entrance point, known as the Crocodile Bridge Gate.
Upon closer inspection, it was apparent; the boat trailer couldn’t fit across the Crocodile Bridge, our means of exit after a day in the park.

There are nine entrance gates to Kruger, each of which is many kilometers from one another. If one enters one location, unless they have plans for another area, they generally exit from the same gates. 

However, like us four years ago, on our way to the Blyde River Canyon, we exited from a gate considerably further north than our entry point at the Crocodile River, which is close to Marloth Park. 

Lots of lookie-loos stopped to view and comment on the situation. Based on this scenario, there was no way anyone was getting in or out of Kruger via this bridge.

Based on our current location, it takes approximately eight minutes from Marloth Park and another 12 minutes to reach the Crocodile River gate. This 20-minute drive seems to pass quickly while we chatter with enthusiasm over entering Kruger once again.

Since we recently purchased an annual pass that pays for itself after six uses, we have no doubt it will have been a worthwhile purchase during our remaining 12 months (off and on) in Marloth Park.

This was the first of over 30 elephants we watched cross the road.  In the distance, difficult to see, was the most enormous matriarch we’d ever seen. Had we been 10 minutes earlier, we may have seen her. 

Why would we go to Kruger instead of staying in Marloth Park when we have so much wildlife right before our eyes?  If you’re one of our many newer readers, we’ll explain. In Marloth, generally, we don’t have the big five; elephant, lion, cape buffalo, leopard, and rhino.

Had we been 10 minutes later, we’d have missed the entire parade of elephants crossing the road.
However, from time to time, lions enter Marloth Park as they have most recently, so all residents must keep an eye and ear out to ensure their safety. There’s always been a ban on walking in Marloth after dark, which is particularly important right now. 
There were numerous babies of varying ages in the “parade” of elephants. We were so close, little to no zoom was required to capture these photos.

Based on the lion attack story we posted this past week on March 11th, about Jonas, who was attacked by a lion years ago, one can never be too cautious. Click here if you missed that post.

By 10:20, we presented our “documents” at the Crocodile entrance gate. After the usual five-minute processing time, including inspecting the trunk for guns, alcohol, or harmful substances, the bar was lifted, and we gained access to the park.

At first, we thought there might be a dozen, but they kept coming and coming.

There are many roads one can choose in the park, but there are only a few paved roads, which to complete in a full circle may require a full day of driving to end up back at the entrance. As a result, like many others, we choose to embark upon some of the bumpy dirt roads.

Is the viewing better on the dirt roads?  Not necessarily. The wildlife may be close to the paved road or any of the myriad bumpy dirt roads. It’s not as if the animals prefer one road or another when they are often on the roads for only a short period, preferring to head back into the bush for food, shelter, and safety.

Only one other car enjoyed the experience with us.  We were on a very bumpy dirt road many visitors to the park might have avoided.

By about noon, after we’d seen only a bit of wildlife, mostly impala, of which we have many in Marloth Park, we felt that our usual “safari luck” may not be present. We accepted this fact, acknowledging that sooner or later, such a day would occur. For once, we were about to experience less than a successful day.

With a map in hand, we planned our route to make a complete circle leading us back to the Crocodile Bridge gate with a plan to get back “home” in plenty of time to complete the day’s post and head to Jabula in time for happy hour and dinner. 

We practically held our breath as they made their way across the dirt road.

Little did we know what lay ahead. First off, the bumpy dirt road we’d chosen for the route was in poor shape with what Tom referred to as a “washboard” surface. Oh, good grief! It was bumpy indeed.

The little car rattled more than I’d ever heard a car rattle, at a few points, even amid Tom’s careful driving, sounded as it was ready to fall apart and leave itself on the road in a pile of cheap metal. 

This elephant to the left turned to look at us, wondering if we were a threat.  We were prepared to back up at any moment.

But, oh, this wasn’t the worst of it. The fact we hadn’t seen much in the way of wildlife to fuel our enthusiasm, the car’s five-speed transmission, coupled with the outrageous road, made for one unpleasant drive. Wait, more is yet to come.

Finally, once we exited the gate and neared the bridge, we couldn’t believe the scene before our eyes. The narrow one-way bridge was blocked by a car hauling a boat. The trailer became stuck between the low support posts, intended to keep vehicles from driving off the bridge into the dangerous Crocodile River (hence, its name). The trailer’s wheels were wider than the bridge itself.

After several had passed, she turned to look at us directly. Had she started moving toward us, we’d have high-tailed out of there.  Elephants have been known to topple over cars, crushing them in the process.

When we arrived at the scene, we were one of maybe three vehicles hoping to cross. Within about 10 minutes, 12 to 15 vehicles lined up with drivers and passengers getting out to check out the situation and perhaps, offer their two cents worth of advice, none of which would be effective without some major equipment coming to the scene.

We waited, waited, and waited. There was no way any of us would be getting across this bridge anytime soon. We had a decision to make…sit here and wait for what certainly would be hours or attempt to get out of the park via another route, the closest gate being Malelane Gate, 60 kilometers (37 miles) from our current location. 

She kept watching as more came across the road.

On the slow unpaved roads, we expected the drive would take an extra 90 minutes. Plus, when we exited through the Malelane Gate, we’d have another 49 kilometers (30.5 miles) to return to Marloth Park. Most likely, we’d be back at our place by 2:00 pm or so. We decided to leave rather than sit for hours at the blocked Crocodile Bridge.

Then, of course, we had to regain entrance into the park. The person handling documents didn’t speak English well and had trouble understanding why we needed to get back into the park to exit via Malelane. 

Although not the matriarch, she may have been second-in-command. When she saw this tiny elephant and another baby crossing, she focused even more.

Finally, the gate agent figured it out, and he dug out our original documents but needed to staple the paperwork together. There were no staples in his staple gun, nor the next booth, nor in the next booth, and after about five or six minutes, he rousted up some staples. It was this delay…staples…that influenced an upcoming next experience.

Little did we know or anticipate that the dirt roads we had to take to get to the Malelane Gate were considerably worse than the bumpy dirt roads we’d experienced earlier. I can honestly say we’ve never traveled on a “washboard” road to this extent. If I thought the car was falling apart earlier, this wasn’t good. We couldn’t wait for the long ride to end.

Once she saw they were safe, she backed off, joining the others on the left side of the road. We’d practically held our breath during the entire crossing, thrilled and excited for the experience.

But then…amid our frustration (no, Tom didn’t get overly grumpy, but then, I wasn’t necessarily “overly bubbly” although we both were staying on an even keel), safari luck kicked in. Before our eyes, a scene we’d experienced four years ago and had dreamed of seeing once again lie before our eyes…the dozens of elephants crossing the road as shown in today’s photos.

Had it not been for the delay in finding the staples, we would have missed it.  We couldn’t stop smiling while rapidly taking photos as we watched this magical scene transpire before us. Of course, the first thing we said was, “Safari luck” rewarded us for the harrowing drive and the delays at the Crocodile Bridge.”

Mom and baby wildebeest were walking along the road.

The story doesn’t end here. But tomorrow, we’ll share the balance, a story of making mistakes, taking wrong roads, and choosing a ridiculous shortcut that only cost us more time and frustration, all of which, we must admit, was softened by this scene of the elephants, all due to a staple gun’s missing staples. 

We never made it to Jabula for dinner last night. We’ll go tonight instead. After all, I’m married to an Irishman and today is St. Patrick’s Day (also son Richard‘s birthday. Happy b’day Richard!), and indeed we’ll have some fun at Jabula tonight!

Happy St. Patrick’s Day to all who celebrate and be safe in the process!

Photo from one year ago today, March 17, 2017:

This cockatoo stopped by for a visit, alighting atop Bob’s medicinal Papaw tree in the yard. For more photos, please click here.