It rained inside the house, an unusual phenomenon…Yikes! April 15th is looming!…

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Lemons are growing inside the riad, absorbing last night’s rain, a rare exception, and reaching for the sun that shines most days through the open roof of the center courtyard. 

Living in Dar Aicha is delightful in so many ways, all of which we take time to appreciate; little birds flying and walking about in the courtyard; sunshine streaming through the opening to light and warm the courtyard; comfortable rooms and furnishings; the finest bed and covers one could imagine; en suite bathrooms with powerful water pressure and hot water and the finest staff in the land.

Water on the floor as the rain began last night.

The placement of the furnishing and draperies prevent anything from getting wet. As a precaution, we moved our scattered electrical equipment undercover.
Last night, we discovered a rather curious element to our stay in Dar Aicha. It rained inside the house. Please keep in mind, we didn’t get wet nor did any of our belongings get wet nor, did we suffer any ill effects in any manner. Simply put, it was interesting.
We continue to explore beyond the crowds in the most popular souk, finding interesting nooks and crannies.
A table of shoes likely to appeal more to the locals than the tourists.  In the more popular souk, many of the shoes have well-known labels and are arranged to catch the eye of the tourist, while this is a more functional display with lower prices.

It is definitely usual for it to be raining into one’s house other than if, God forbid, a roof is torn off in a tornado or hurricane or if a roof is worn and leaking severely, which we’ve definitely experienced in our travels. A free-flowing rain inside the house, such as we experienced last night, was unusual even for us.

Colorful scarves are a commonly worn accessory by the local women and in many cases, by the men as well.

It started on Sunday night when a mysterious wind whipped up around 9:00 pm that brought us out into the open courtyard from the cozy comfort of the salon as we watched a movie on my laptop. The sudden sound of wind swirling about startled us. 

The narrow streets away from the tourist areas, attract the locals in search of food and clothing.

As we stood in the courtyard, leaves blew around the courtyard as billowy curtains flew about. As we watched each other’s hair blowing while inside the riad, we both chuckled over the odd phenomenon. 

This little square offered outdoor dining with lower prices on food than in the Big Square. Overall, the cost of dining out in Morocco is reasonable with only a few higher-priced establishments.

Loud noises came from the rooftop as lawn chairs and other items flew in the high winds. At one point, Tom went up to the roof to investigate if something was wrong. Nothing was. Quickly, he returned back inside, securing the door behind him. I had visions of him flying off the roof.

Heading back to the Big Square we noticed more clouds rolling in.
Back in the courtyard, we reveled in the oddity and went back to our movie, content that there wasn’t a thing to be concerned about. This property is built like a fortress with thick stone and plaster walls.
 Tom made the mistake of wearing a short-sleeve shirt as the weather turned. We’d wished we’d both worn our jackets as we continue to adapt to the cooler weather. Soon, Morocco will warm up as spring nears, much to our pleasure.

Last night, Monday, there was little wind, but it began raining lightly around 8:00 pm. Tom, with his hearing problem (a result of 42 years on the noisy railroad) didn’t hear it when I did, as the droplets of rain began clinking onto the brass fountain in the center of the courtyard.

Many orange juice carts are available in the Big Square, offering fresh-squeezed juice.

We bolted off the sofa in the salon, standing on the edges of the room under the overhang as we watched the rain sprinkling into the room. With some of our power cords and strips scattered about the second-floor lounge, we ran upstairs moving everything undercover, just in case. What if that wind returned while it rained?

Daily, the outdoor food tents are reconstructed after the necessity of taking them down every night to make way for the daytime street vendors. What a huge amount of work for owners and their workers! 

Later heading to bed, the sprinkling ended and we didn’t give it another thought. At 3:00 am, I was awakened by the sound of pouring rain with an occasional burst of thunder. The rain was pelting into the house through the open roof in the courtyard.

As we return to the more popular souk, the streets are lined with colorful merchandise.

Jumping out of bed, I looked over the second-floor railing and yes, indeed, it was pouring rain. With nothing out of order, I returned to bed and soon back to sleep. This morning, although the fountain had some standing water and the stone floor was soaking wet, nothing was out of order.

Many of the vendors object when I’ve attempted to take photos of their displays. As a result, we try to take photos when the opportunity arises with less resistance.

Need I say, all and all, it was a pleasant, albeit unusual experience. But, then again, many of our experiences as we’ve traveled the world, are “different” from life as we knew it in the past while living in a cocoon of familiarity, consistency, and comfort. How that has all changed.

Various souvenirs that may appeal to the shoppers.

As for yesterday, we headed out in the late afternoon for a hike around the souk and Medina in search of a restaurant. Spoiled from Madame Zahra’s fine cooking, we continue to struggle to find restaurant food appealing, especially befitting my way of eating and Tom’s picky taste buds.

We’re committed to continuing to try a different restaurant every other day, at least until we feel repeats of favorites are in order. Last night’s dinner at a new location was mediocre at best. Most assuredly, many tourists would have found it to be exotic and delicious. 

This similar costume is found on many men we’ve seen in the Big Square. He is referred to as a “water boy” from the period when the nomads came across the desert needing water. These costumes indicated that he was the provider for water. Now, with less of a need for providing water, he poses for photos for a small sum, while still carrying the cups and supplies for the water to add to his authenticity.

In truth, our personal limitations do tend to hinder our enjoyment of the local flavors wherever we may travel. As we’ve stated in many prior posts that we have resigned to the fact that food around the world is less important to us, as it may be to other travelers. It is through this acceptance that we’re able to revel in the food that we can and do eat while focusing our attention on many other aspects of traveling the world.

This sign atop the building apparently says, “Welcome to Marrakech.”  Why Marrakech is upside down baffles us.

As we sit here this morning, delicious coffee in hand, we’re content that we’re dining in tonight for yet another authentic Moroccan meal lovingly prepared to our tastes by dedicated master chef Madame Zahra.

Another of our favorite meals prepared by Madame Zahra for Sunday night’s dinner including, from the left at the salad, clockwise; salad with radishes, cucumbers, celery, onions and lettuce; cooked, seasoned zucchini; (center) my favorite, egg battered and fried Aubergine (eggplant); another favorite, fried egg battered cauliflower; and Tom’s fried egg battered potatoes, which, along with chips, he particularly likes. 

A painful task I must begin to tackle today is the preparation of the worksheet for our accountant for our 2013 taxes, due to be filed on April 15th. As the record keeper in the family, I had taken on this daunting task as soon as Tom and I were married 19 years ago. 

So, today I begin, allowing myself two days to complete the task, forwarding everything to the accountant by late tomorrow. Having already logged all of our deductible receipts, hopefully, it won’t be as intimidating as it feels at the moment. 

This dish was Lamb Tagine which I absolutely loved.  Tom, on the other hand, is less inclined toward lamb. Much to my surprise, he ate a portion, leaving the remainder for me. 

Without a doubt, this is a painful reminder to those US citizens with this job hanging over their heads. Once completed, the sense of relief will be profound when we’ll be able to relax and we’ll be able to arrange sightseeing outside of the Medina.

Our commitment to continuing to provide new photos each day is ongoing, amid our other responsibilities. May your day be filled with a sense of accomplishment, as we too strive for the same.

Part 2, a night in the Medina…a memorable experience…

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As darkness fell and the crowds increased, the lights in the Big Square cast a breathtaking glow.

Sunday afternoon, we walked the narrow, out the way streets, most often visited by the locals for their shopping far from the crowded tourist shops. 
Our perception was that the old city of Marrakech was comprised of most of the areas we had seen.  Not the case.  After all, this is a city, not a tiny village.

We enjoyed watching the evening change as the sun began to set. 

As we wandered from one narrow shopping area to another we found ourselves in less “touristy” areas, instead in the areas where many of the locals shop and eat.  The prices at the restaurants were considerably less than in the Big Square, the vendor stands were less “fluffed up” for attracting patrons and the vendors were considerably less aggressive than in the popular souks.  It was another version of this highly cultural and diverse environment.


Grateful to get a table by the railing of the third floor roof of the restaurant, we were excited to watch the evening unfold. 

Of course, this area intrigues us, as has been the case for as we’ve traveled the world.  We’re not trying to cram everything into a long weekend or a one or two week vacation.  We’re trying to experience everyday “life” as much as possible in our short two to three month stint in yet another country. 

Most assuredly, even our short stays aren’t long enough to make a full and fair assessment as to the quality of life long term in an area.  But, we do get the “flavor” of the city, the town, the village, the country in order to determine if someday we’d like to return for a longer stay. 

The smoke from the various fires for cooking created a hazy view of the area.

Few places we’ve visited have left us imminently wanting more, instead leaving us, in each case, with a sense of pride for the region and a connection to its culture and its people, however our short stay may allow.

This was our favorite photo of the night, clearly depicting the color, light and energy occurring at night in the Big Square.

The exception to this has been Marloth Park, South Africa which, for those of you who have followed us these past many months, was unique and special in its own way that will always tug at our hearts.  Most likely, nothing we will ever find again.

Many vendors display their wares on the ground making walking around the Big Square at night a bit challenging as visitors are pushed through the crowds.

In Morocco we find the experience far removed from any past experiences we’ve had, a place drenched in cultural diversity with a potent mix of stimulation of the senses.  

Tom, a little perplexed by the French language spicy menu, wasn’t quite as animated as when there is a burger and fries on the menu. He ordered a three course meal including a salad, a steak and a chocolate mousse which was his favorite of the three.

Where else in the world would one become intoxicated with the smells that waft through every doorway, every narrow alley, every open square and most assuredly, through every house as taste, smell and companionship gather its citizens to commiserate over food?  None other than Morocco. We find ourselves drawn in.

The view from the rooftop of the restaurant.

Yes, the Internet is slow as I sit here now struggling to load photos to share with our readers. 

Yes, no more than 30 seconds from our door we’re bombarded with persistent crowds and barking vendors. 


Yes, the language barrier is a struggle even with my limited French when lovely people such as Madame Zahra only speaks the Marrakech dialect Arabic for which Google translate offers no solution.  Yes, for this long term stay, its not easy.



Many of the vendors lit their displays with visually appealing lighting for the best
advantage for their offered merchandise.
Its from these very challenges that we grow, we adapt and, in our advancing age, we learn more than we ever imagined we’d be learning at this stage in life.  For us, it’s a heck of a lot better than sitting in a high rise waiting to watch “The View” and “Dr. Oz” each day, as we so easily could have done had we chosen another route for our lives after retirement.
This hotel has one of the many restaurants we will try soon.

Instead, Tom spends time each day when we’re not exploring, continually piecing together his ancestry and his varied investments. And, with my ceaseless entrepreneurial spirit in tact I have a website that magically turned into a lifetime dream of writing with adequate fodder to attract a population of readers worldwide. 

After leaving the restaurant, back on ground level, we found an area we’d yet to see, the dining tents.  As we walked by each “booth” we were bombarded by salespeople encouraging us to dine at their station. Each was numbered to ensure one could find the one they’d preferred the next night. These stations are put up and taken down each day to make room for the daytime vendors, a daunting task for the owners and staff.

How ironic that the business spirit that I’ve always possessed has turned into a website with big advertisers without forfeiting the personal perspective that we willingly share each and every day. 

Although I’d just eaten my dinner salad, my mouth watered over these confections. Sweet
desserts are everywhere, none of which I can have nor Tom is interested in.  He prefers a plain cake donut.  

How ironic that my disdain for taking photos up until May of 2013 when we started using the newer camera, would magically turn into a passion for me and for Tom with his great eye for good story telling shots and me, with my determination for a clear and concise angle.

Today, our photos tell more of the story of this “magic carpet like” city as we continue to plan further explorations over the next few months which we’ll joyfully share with you once they are confirmed. 

Each station had a slightly different theme but most, maintain the use of the popular  spices savored in Morocco.

For now, we continue on, with open hearts, inquisitive minds and an impassioned spirit to discover what more this unique environment has to offer.


Mostly tourists, these picnic tables were filled with a hungry captive audience.  We’ll stick to the restaurants which tend to use fresher refrigerated foods.  In any case, it was exciting to walk through this area to see what it was all about.

Part 1… A night in the Medina…A memorable experience…

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As we entered the Big Square in the Medina, the night’s varied activities had just begun.

Yesterday, we were itching to see the “Big Square,” the center of the Medina, as often called by the locals, on a busy Saturday night. Marrakech is a short flight from many locations in Europe. attracting many tourists from many countries.

Leaving Dar Aicha at 5:00 pm, our home until mid-May, 2014, we immediately got into step with the massive crowds, working their way through the Souk, stopping every few feet to look at the vast array of colorful merchandise. 

On the crowded trek through the Jemaa el Fna colorful shops began to light up for the evening’s activities.

With both of us adamantly opposed to being caught in crowded areas, we’ve somehow had put aside our disdain since arriving in Marrakech (going forward I will spell the name of this ancient city, in the same manner as the locals, ending in “kech,” not the English version of “kesh”). 

I’d be in big trouble if I had room in my one large suitcase for a few of these colorful dresses.  I’d then ask myself, where would I’d wear a dress such as this?  How would I wash it?  Practicality is of the utmost importance when traveling the world.

The relentless crowd pushed and shoved as we bounced around like ping=pong balls, neither of us into shoving and pushing. During the week when more locals were in the Jemaa el Fna Souk it was an easier trek to the Big Square.

Leather bags are a popular item among tourists. Excuse the blur as I shot this while maneuvering through the crowds. Also, some shop owners don’t want photos taken of their merchandise and we must refrain from doing so or be discreet in doing so.

We were on a mission to find a rooftop restaurant for dinner and an opportunity to watch the evening’s activities while high above the crowds. The challenge? Food I could eat, food Tom was willing to eat. 

It’s a good thing I can’t eat these tempting confections. I’m certain I would have loved them gaining weight while here. We have no option of gaining weight in our travels. Our clothing supply would no longer fit.  In his old life, Tom had jeans in a few different sizes for those “up and down” times. Now, he has one size, the size he wore when we left the US, which he’ll definitely return to while in Morocco as he struggles with the spicy foods when we’re dining in restaurants.  This is not an issue with Madame Zahra’s cooking, which we both enjoy.

All of the restaurants in the Medina have menus posted outside, giving us an opportunity to review each as we made our way from one restaurant to another. None of the menus are in English. They are posted in Arabic and French. 

The colorful fabrics in the souk are appealing to the eye.

Thank goodness for my four years of French studies while in high school, 50 years ago. Thank goodness, that my way of eating has been instrumental in my memory being sharper than ever. (Read Grain Brain by Dr. David Perlmutter, if interested in improving your memory and health by eliminating inflammatory foods from your diet).

As we entered the Big Square we could sense that the size of the crowds was growing by the minute.

I was able to translate the entire menu except for one word: huile. Looking it up this morning in Google Translate, I discovered it means “oil.” OK. Good to know. 

Products that please the senses are a big aspect of life in Morocco, both for selling and incorporating into one’s life. The combination of the herbal scents coupled with the smell of the spices and foods being cooked is heady.

As we discovered after dining in three restaurants thus far in Marrakech, my only safe bet is to order a salad with grilled beef, chicken or fish, avocado, olives, veggies, and cheese. Of course, when we dine on Madame Zahra’s fabulous foods, we have no fear. She totally gets it, making the most interesting and delicious foods I’ve had since the onset of this way of eating 31 months ago. 

If we stop to take a photo, the hard-working vendors are compelled to get us to make a purchase. Where in our luggage could we ever fit any of the colorful trinkets?

We won’t mention the name of the restaurant where we dined. The food wasn’t good. It could have been an “off” night and long ago, we choose not to write bad reviews. In other words, “If you can’t say something nice, don’t say anything at all,” a policy, we adopted when we started writing about local businesses. Why would we want to potentially hurt the hard-working owners and employees of local establishments? We wouldn’t.

The size of the crowd continued to grow as we made our way around the Big Square checking out the dining options.

The view was the restaurant’s rooftop was stupendous, as you can see from our photos. Later, when we walked through the Medina we were amazed how the Big Square became about food after dark as tents were set up with vendors enthusiastically steering passersby to their “stations” each of which we clearly numbered for future referenced.

As the sun began to set and the crowds grew, we were comfortably situated atop of the roof of the restaurant we selected for the evening.

As we passed, literally hundreds of diners were seated together at picnic tables, plates piled high with colorful fresh foods cooked to order. As we meandered through the outdoor food area, I’d wished we hadn’t already had dinner when I saw many items that appeared to be suitable for me. We’d hoped to participate in this exciting aspect of this extraordinary old city. 

The vendors organized their wares in preparation for the upcoming evening’s activities.

This morning in speaking with Samir, he suggested we avoid the “street” food. He explained that it would be very risky to ensure these foods are made befitting my way of eating. We can’t take the risk and will stick to the restaurants where each item is prepared individually.

The crowds increased by the minute…

Dining high above the crowds at one of many rooftop restaurants definitely has an appeal after last night’s experience. Last night’s dinner was our most expensive, thus far, at US $38.53, MAD $320 with no alcohol included. 

The vendors were prepared for the growing crowds.

Madame Zahra’s amazing meals are US $24.08 (for two), MAD $200. There’s no comparison to restaurant food and her delicious meals. We’d dine in every night for the divine quality of her food if we weren’t so determined to get out for more experiences. 

The sky darkening over the rooftops of the homes and shops located in the walled city. We were too far from our riad to find our rooftop.
It seldom rains in Morocco, although the sky at dusk was covered with fast-moving clouds.

Before we’d booked Dar Aicha we’d read several reviews written by past guests stating the exact same dilemma; Madame Zahra’s food as compared to restaurant food inspired them to prefer to dine in.

Smoke began to waft through the air as wood-fired grills were started for the evening’s foods. The smells were indescribable.
The pigeons are fed by the locals as well as the many cats that wander the Medina and the souk.

The old walled city of Marrakech and the Jemaa el Fna Souk, make it tempting for a visitor to seldom venture outside these walls. The energy, the excitement, the entertainment, and its diverse culture have an irresistible appeal. One’s senses are stimulated to a point of wondering why one would want anything different or more. 

The horses and colorful buggies were awaiting their next customers.
Many of the vendors began to turn on the lights in their tents and shops.
This mosque was lit creating an enchanting scene.

In time, we’ll explore outside these walls to discover what other wonders Morocco has in store for us.

Note: Tomorrow, we’ll return with photos of the Big Square, after dark when we were able to get some excellent shots of the night’s activities.

First trip outside the Medina, the walled city, to the modern area…A special treat for Tom on our anniversary…

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Thanks to all of the warm anniversary wishes we received yesterday as we celebrated 19 years of marriage (together 23 years)
Also, for our readers in the US, with changing clocks overnight tonight for Daylight Savings Time (where applicable), we will be seven hours later than the West Coast, five hours later than the Midwest, and four hours later for the East Coast.  s an example, those of you in the Midwest will see our newest post, no later than 8:30 am your time. 

Yesterday, Friday, the souk is closed due to Friday as the Holy Day. It was odd walking through the area when it was quiet.

Yesterday afternoon, we decided it was time to leave the walled city to find a supermarket for purchasing cheese and nuts. There are many snack type vendors in the Medina and Souk, but, all that we’d purchased thus far were unsalted nuts.

The “petit taxis” are smaller than what is shown here. But, all taxis, large and small appear to be this same beige color, making them easy to spot.

With my limited food options due to my way of eating, nuts with salt are a treat for both of us. Everywhere we’ve traveled we’ve been able to find nuts that are salted without the use of wheat as a stabilizer. 

To the right, is a petit taxi as we maneuvered through the traffic near the entrance to the Medina.
Cheese is not a commonly utilized food item in Morocco none of which we found in the souk. Thus, a trip to a grocery store was inevitable. For us, the simple trip proved to be another learning experience.
Non Muslims are not allowed to tour the many mosques in Morocco.

With no taxis allowed in the Medina, and the long walk from Dar Aicha to the street outside the walled city, we realized we couldn’t purchase more than we could easily carry back.

This is one of many newer condo complexes with units available for sale that we noticed on the way to the grocery store. The streets in Marrakesh are meticulous, free of trash or litter. It’s obvious the Moroccan people take great pride in their surroundings.

Samir, our kind and dignified houseman, had explained that there are “petit taxis” (small taxis) on the street outside the Medina with drivers prepared to negotiate a round trip and who are willing to wait while we shop.

As a business hub, there are many fine hotels in Marrakesh for both business and pleasure travelers with the convenience of the nearby airport.

Moments after stepping off the curb, we were approached by Simone, a French speaking driver with whom we were able to communicate with my limited French. He agreed to take us to the “supermarket,” 15 minutes away and back for a negotiated price of MAD $80, US $9.63 and was to wait 30 minutes or more while we shopped.  We paid him MAD $100, US $12.04 including a well deserved tip. 

At the entrance to the Marjane Mall where the Hypermarket is located on a lower level with elevators for wheeling carts to one’s vehicle.
This could have been any mall, anywhere in the world, newer, convenient and with many stores, some of which were “chain” stores that we’ve seen in other African countries. We didn’t see any US chain stores.
Only a small number of the mall’s stores were open due to the Holy Day.

As we drove further and further away from the Medina, the city changed dramatically from old to new with modern buildings, hotels, newly built condo communities. It could have been anywhere in the US except for the interesting architecture of the structures, following the pleasing Moroccan theme. 

No pork or pork products (bacon, sausage, chops) are available in Morocco. Muslim people do not eat pork. Beef, chicken and fish comprise most meals.  Many of the body parts of cows and chickens are savored.
These are steaks with all of the fat removed. In South Africa, fat is considered a delicacy and is left on the meat. Apparently, that is not the case in Morocco when all of the beef appeared to be very lean and free of visible fat.

With the temperature at 85F, 29C, I was warm in my bundled up attire that I’ve worn in an attempt to keep me warm in the riad which stays very cool day and night. Tom had worn short sleeves instead of layers and was comfortable as we walked, while I was sweating in my heavy layers. 

Driving through this modern area reminded me in many ways of Scottsdale, Arizona where we lived for two months as we prepared to leave the US.

Off putting to some, I was intrigued by all the parts of the fresh fish which are utilized in cooking in Morocco.

Simone dropped us off at the new shopping mall where upon entering the modern facility, we found our way to the Marjane Hypermarket on a lower level. Upon entering the giant facility, it reminded me of any Target Superstore in Minnesota, where both grocery, clothing, electronics and household items can be purchased under one roof.

It was hard for me to take my eyes off the fresh fish, a favorite.
Various sundries are also sold in the Hypermarket.

Having been an avid Target shopper in my old life,  a wave of excitement washed over me, quickly dispelled by the reality that we are only able to purchase that which we will consume before we leave Morocco in a little over two months. 

After exiting the mall, we didn’t see Simone, thinking he may have had to park in another area when we didn’t see any taxis on the street. After waiting for five minutes, Simone appeared on foot and walked us to his vehicle further down the road.

With cheese spoiling quickly with less preservatives used in Africa, we only purchased enough cheese that would keep for the few weeks until we venture out for groceries again. Of course, we’re able to keep the cheese in the refrigerator, as we do our iced tea, along with ice made in trays.

It wasn’t long before we approached the Medina for our long walk back carrying heavy the groceries. I suggested to Tom that we take a horse and buggy or a tuk tuk, but, he insisted he was doing fine carrying the bulk of the load.

I must admit I felt like a kid in a candy store. Had we been cooking here, we’d have been able to find most of our usual ingredients. As for prices, as I clicked away on my smartphone for the currency conversion app, they were higher than South Africa and more comparable to Kenya.  The produce was cheap, meat was reasonable (both locally grown) and packaged goods were high (mostly imported).

Here is everything we purchased in the Hypermarket. Although I’m not a big fan of Lipton tea, I am very picky about flavors of tea and chose what I knew I’d drink and use for iced tea if necessary. I miss my old favorite, Pouchong but, am unable to find it anywhere outside the US. The coffee we purchased was the same brand that we’d used when we lived in Tuscany last summer. The receipt and conversion for our entire purchase is listed below.
This chunk of Gouda was US $11.11, MAD $92.30.  It was .63 kg, 1.38 pounds, which we agreed was a reasonable price. The name on the label, Carrefour, was the same store name where we’d made purchases in Dubai, UAE, last May.

All the fresh foods were beautifully displayed and carefully handled. The cheese display was extensive with as many options as we’d found when we lived in Italy this past summer. The packaged nuts were a little pricey, mostly locally grown. We were thrilled to find salted nuts.

The total grocery bill for cheese, tea, water and nuts converts  to US $149.71. It’s unlikely we’ll need to shop again for several weeks.

The big mistake we made was in purchasing two five liter bottles of water, hoping to make Samir’s task of going out to buy water for us easier for a few days. Carrying the big jugs of water along with the other items, certainly made the return walk cumbersome. We’ve learned our lesson. Samir has kindly offered to get all of the bottled water for us, for which we’ll reimburse him.

Last night’s delicious anniversary dinner made by Madame Zahra included: clockwise from the bread, to the pepper salad (not hot peppers), marinated beet salad, egg battered Aubergine (my favorite) and a cabbage and olive salad. The item below the beets was Tom’s favorite, battered and fried cauliflower (containing flour so I didn’t try it) up until the item shown below was served. 

It never occurred to us that the walk through the Souk yesterday would be less crowded. With Fridays, as the Muslim Holy Day, many of the vendors had closed their shops, allowing us to quickly move through the Medina and the souk upon the return. We’ve decided that in the future, grocery shopping will take place on Fridays.

French fries for Tom, called “chips” in Africa remain as one of Tom’s favorite. Although he didn’t have Heinz ketchup for dipping, he thoroughly enjoyed these.

Once back at Dar Aicha, and finding spots for the snacks, we settled in, as our anniversary dinner was being prepared. The smells wafting from the kitchen had us both famished. 

Last night’s dinner was our favorite thus far with Madame Zahra making “chips” (French fries) for Tom and sautéed egg battered Aubergine (eggplant) for me, a special treat.

When Adil asked us for an entrée preference, we suggested this grilled chicken, made by Madame Zahra on a grill on the rooftop. Once again, it was wonderful.

Today, we’ll head out again to further explore the Medina and to find a new restaurant for dinner. We’re committed to trying new restaurants each of the three to four times we dine out each week. Later, when satisfied we’ve tried most of them, we’ll do repeats of our favorites. Already, the first two restaurants we’ve tried is on the “favorites” list.

As I wandered upstairs to change into my pajamas I only needed to look up to see a crescent moon through the open air roof of our riad.  We can hardly wait to see the full moon as it  soon will cast a shadow inside the house.
The nearly invisible wire covering the roof opening is to prevent branches and animals from falling into the house. So, we suppose.

Yes, we’re settling in after arriving one week ago today. For us, part of the process revolves around becoming familiar, as most of us do, in developing somewhat of a routine. As we’d observed in nature over the past three months in South Africa, animals, like humans, find extraordinary comfort in familiar routines.

We dine, trying new places and foods. We explore, to learn about the area and the culture. We interact with locals, as often as possible. And, we document our experiences in photos and stories which, we joyfully share with our readers each and every day. 

A reason to celebrate…Spending our anniversary in a foreign land…Life is different for us now…

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Yesterday, we dined at Le Jardin, a lovely restaurant that had good reviews. The food and ambiance were excellent in this “riad,” a building with an open-air, center courtyard, as is the design of our current home. Tonight, for our anniversary dinner, Madame Zahra will prepare and serve yet another fabulous meal which we’ll savor by candlelight in one of the most romantic settings in town, Dar Aicha, our home for the next 10 weeks.

Spending 24 hours a day with another human being could be challenging, whether a spouse, partner, child or family member, business associate, roommate, or friend. 

Seated next to a birdcage with two parakeets, Tom got a kick out of their playful antics.
When there are no giraffes, kudus, or warthogs to watch, birds can be fun!

Retirement often brings couples together around the clock, creating an environment for stress and disharmony. We’re not totally retired, spending half of each day researching, writing, taking, and posting photos, in the ongoing documentation on our website keeping both of us busy half of each day.

No more than two minutes after we were seated, we noticed this turtle on the floor, on a mission. In search of crumbs, he moved rapidly.
Later, during our meal, these two turtles were hanging out together.
Later, they basked in the sun in close proximity to one another.

Although Tom doesn’t write here, he is actively involved in researching information about the city and country in which we’re currently living and the research as to where we’ll live in the future. 

Few Moroccan citizens own dogs, perceiving them as unclean. But, a foreign customer allowed her Jack Russell Terrier to wander about while she dined.  Oddly, (duh) his name was Jack.

Together, we research through 1000’s of future possible vacation homes in many countries, available transportation, cost of living, while continually checking on activities available in our current country. 

These common Tibbit birds frequent the riads in search of food, as they do in our temporary home.

One huge benefit of our daily postings is the manner in which it inspires us to get out and about in order to explore the area in which we’re currently living, taking photos along the way, while soaking in the glory of the experiences. 

Fresh produce from the farm, used in the menu items, were freely on display in the restaurant.

It would be easy to fall back into the “staying in” mode we thoroughly enjoyed in our old lives. But, we get out, as we doing here in Morocco with the colorful culture at our fingertips, a few steps from the door of Dar Aicha.  We’ve been out almost every day.

This was Tom’s lunch, Moroccan seasoned penne and meat sauce.  Asking for half as much spices as usually prepared, he liked this dish. No comment from me on him eating pasta.

In Marloth Park, South Africa, most of the entertainment came to us. Although, we regularly went out. We took a separate three day trip to Blyde River Canyon, several outings in Kruger National Park, attended game drives/bush braais, dined out three times per week, spent a night in a tent on the Crocodile River, and spent many days and evenings in the company of friends all while living in three different houses.

My dinner was this mouth-watering Moroccan seasoned chicken Caesar salad, minus the croutons The black items are dried black olives which I can eat.The homemade salad dressing was on the side. 

Here in Morocco, we’re busy researching possible overnight trips in order to experience the desert and mountains, further away from the city. Samir is organizing possibilities as we also research online what may appeal to us the most. 

After our meal, we explored new other areas of the Medina and the souks, discovering more interesting items along the way. The huge maze-like Medina can present difficulty in finding one’s way back. Tom’s good sense of direction once again served us well when it was time to return home.

Each time we go out, we find ourselves in situations that we find “photo-worthy” inspiring our daily stories. How amazing that years from now, that we, as well our grandchildren and great-grandchildren, will be able to look back at our worldwide travels in stories and photos, let alone the joy we feel in sharing it with our worldwide readers as we post each and every day.   

The top of this mosque in the background serves as a landmark for finding one’s way to through the Medina.

Some have said that we should “get out more.” But, this is not a “vacation” or “holiday.” This is our daily life. Who amongst us, went sightseeing every day in the city, town, or village in which we lived? We shopped, we dined out, we saw a movie. We attended a sporting event, a wedding, a birthday, or a retirement party. 

Did you ever have a fantasy as a child of riding a magic carpet?

We spent time with our family and friends either in their homes or ours. We attended a grandchild’s soccer, football, or softball game. We attended doctor and dentist appointments. We had a medical test, anxiously awaiting the results.

Vendors sit on the ground as they await their next customer.

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Had we been cooking our food while here, it would have been fun to shop from these vendors.

All of this is different for us now. Neither of us has seen a doctor or dentist since December 2012. Fortunately, we feel well, energized, rested and healthy. If we felt otherwise, we’d see a doctor. In seven months, we’ll be in the US, in Hawaii, where we’ll see a dentist, a doctor if need be, or have a test if warranted.

Finally, we found our way back to familiar territory to begin the trek through the busy souks to return to our home. We were never concerned about being lost. It’s best not to ask passersby for directions to avoid paying for an answer.

In nine months, we’ll be together with our family during the holiday season. Of course, we can hardly wait to see each and every one of them. But, life is different for us now.

When my eye caught this Chameleon, the friendly shop owner noticed my camera, offering a “free” photo. Some shop owners won’t allow photos without paying a fee which we discovered when we tried to take a photo of a meat market.

Samir suggested one only buy spices at “certified” shops to ensure quality and freshness.

These similar items are offered in one spice after another, all with prices subject to negotiation.

The shop owner gave me this palm-sized clay holder. The color in it is actually a Moroccan lipstick made from poppy seed flour, activated when water is added. We offered a tip but he refused, hoping we’d return another day.

After they fly away, we’ll continue on our worldwide travels, living our lives to the fullest, exploring that which we find most interesting, trying that which we may never have imagined, in places we’d never expected to see.

Pashmina scarfs, popular in the US years ago.
 Sandals in many styles and sizes, tempting to me in my old life, not at all now.
Lighting fixtures galore.
Bean pods, herbs, and carrots for sale in the souk.

As we celebrate this 19th wedding anniversary (23 years together), we celebrate with love, with gratitude, and with passion for our lives, for each other, and for living life to the fullest.

Happy anniversary to my husband, lover, and friend for sharing this outrageous adventure with me; for your continued optimism, your cheerfulness, your humor, and for most of all your love.

The magic of the Medina and the Souk…Adjusting to a new environment isn’t always easy…Lots more photos..

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This was the view as we dined in an outdoor café on Tuesday. 

It’s only through our 17 months of travel, 14 of which have been spent outside the US, that we’ve come to realize how convenient life was in the US. We had access to anything we wanted and could afford.

“Tuk-tuks” lined up to take customers to other locations in the Medina. So far, we’ve hoofed it.

The Internet on our phones and in our houses was something we rarely thought of unless something occasional went wrong. Cable and Satellite TV provided a massive amount of options, enhanced by services such as Netflix.

Carts with donkeys are often used to transport merchandise.

Yes, I know, two donkey photos. Maybe I need a little more time to adjust to the lack of animals in my environment.

Movie theatres were within 20 minutes for most of us. Restaurants serving food that we could and would eat were a hop, skip, and a jump away. If we needed a new pair of socks, a trip to Target was all that was required.

Check out the size of these strawberries!

If we were cold, we turned on the heat; hot, we turned on the whole house AC. If we decided to make a special recipe, a short trip to a grocery store was all that was required to find the necessary ingredients.

Tassels, a common decorative item in Morocco and colorful plates.

When we fell ill, a phone call and usually short drive to our family doctor was all that was required to get us pointed in the right direction. We drank water from the kitchen tap. And on and on.

Munchies for sale in street kiosks in the Medina.

Dried figs and dates are a common snack and are also used in cooking in Morocco.

More dried fruits and snacks.

Yes, we took all of this for granted but, why wouldn’t we? It was the normal course of life for many of us. Yes, there were many others less fortunate. Our hearts broke for them and some of us, we did what we could, however small. 

Beautiful handmade dresses are on display in the souk.

We were caught up in our comfortable little world of work, responsibility, love, family, and friends. We found comfort and familiarity in that life. And, for many of us, we found a level of happiness, at times intermittent, at other times, constant. 

Although these pots appear to be chocolate something, it’s actually “black soap.”

At different times in our lives, we were unhappy, unsure, grieving, in pain, and in sorrow. For most of us, in time, we’ve found a level of peace in a world we could live in and fit in.

Each night at dinner, Madame Zahra serves the main course in one of these clay pots which keeps the food warm.

For us, world travelers that we are, most of this has changed. Here in Morocco, we find some of our greatest adjustments: not being able to shop for and cook our own meals; having difficulty staying warm after nine months of hot weather; finding foods we like and can eat in local restaurants and, the language barrier with only a few locals speaking English. 

Cats are everywhere in Marrakesh, seemingly well fed and accepting of the crowds.
These kittens were playing in the street. 

None of this is a result of a problem with Morocco, our hosts, or our current home. All of this is “on us,” as we strive to adjust. We find this to be the case in varying degrees in every country in which we’ve lived for a month or more. 

Lamps and lanterns are a common theme throughout the souk.

We realize that many of our posts are filled with excitement and wonder over these very differences. Our eyes are wide open to the adjustments we must make in order to continue to revel in the differences, as opposed to complaining about the necessary adaptation required to fit in and to feel at ease.

Tom is usually smiling. Catching him without a smile is an oddity. He thought his hair looked like Squiggy from the TV show, Laverne and Shirley after the wind whipped his hair.
That’s my guy with the usual smile on his face as we waited for our meal at Yamy, an outdoor café in the big square.

It would be so easy to complain. We chose not to. Instead, we continually strive, each and every day, to find ways to enhance that which we may find difficult.  

It was hard to believe the reasonable prices at this casual café when MAD $40 is US $4.82. My seafood salad as shown below was only MAD $40!  It was delicious. Tom had an excellent burger and fries for MAD $32, US $3.85!  He eats the same of the foods that I can eat when dining in, with Madame Zahra cooking and, splurging when we dine out with no objection from me. 

Tom doesn’t care for spicy food. But, I do. When I cooked I’d use a gentle touch to ensure our mutual satisfaction. We adapted, meeting each other halfway. Moroccan food is very spicy, all of which I love. With nary a thought, Samir spoke to Madame Zahra to cut the spices in half for all of our meals. 

The orange in this salad is slightly cooked carrots which I can have. The remainder consisted of small bites of shrimp, squid, and chicken. I put plain mayo on the top as a bit of dressing. It was divine. I’ll want to have this in the future. But, first. we’ll try many of the other restaurants before doing repeats.
I was so wrapped up in my own plate of food, I forgot to take a photo of Tom’s food before he dug into it. He said it was great, the first American meal he’d had in a restaurant in a long time.

Last night’s dinner, after Madame Zahra graciously made this adjustment, was flawless. We couldn’t have enjoyed it more. We practically ate everything on all those little plates as shown in our photos with barely having room for the entrée. 

My vegetable first course, made by Madame Zahra last night. Peas contain starch so I only had a single taste. I never knew veggies could taste this good.
Tom’s first-course vegetable plate. It’s hard to believe that he’s eating all these veggies and actually enjoying them.

The more we adapt, the more we ultimately find joy in the experiences, which we take with us when we leave;  a new understanding, a new knowledge, and deeper confidence in our ability to grow and learn from our varied experiences.

My plate, with Chicken Tagine, cauliflower, and salad. Lately, we do “mono” eating, having one item at a time, which we find allows us to savor each item for its varied flavors.

No, it’s not as easy as it may often seem. Let’s face it, in South Africa, it was hot, humid and there were bugs and snakes. But, we found a tremendous diversion in the pleasure we gleaned from our amazing visitors and our equally amazing friends.

Our shared salad of which Tom only had a few bites. I had at least half, eaten after my entrée, a habit I have acquired since leaving the US. Eating the salad after the entrée, allows the entrée to be eaten while still hot and also aids in digestion (so they say).

Morocco will be no different. We’ll embrace our surroundings, the food, the unique flavor of the country and its people. And after a short time, we’ll once again, be home.

Jemaa el Fna, the vibrant square of Marrakesh draws us in..Dining out…A trip to a spice shop…

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Tom and Hamoudi, the owner of the spice shop.
Me and Hamoudi, the friendly owner of the spice shop in the Medina. I was all bunched up with so many layers of clothing to keep me warm.

The Medina or square, the Jemaa el Fna, contains historic buildings, restaurants, residences, and the world-famous souk, the marketplace for both locals and tourists.

These bars are actually scented with perfumes from around the world to be scraped onto the skin for a lasting scent. Unable to decide which we liked better we purchased two. I can’t recall the last time I purchased anything that wasn’t functional or absolutely necessary. 
For a moment, I recalled my former days of cooking using a wide array of fresh spices. The feeling quickly passed when the fact that I won’t cook a single item over the next two and a half months.  
Cinnamon is a popular spice used in Moroccan cooking and medicinally worldwide.

The bottles of the vast array of spices in Hamoudi’s store was appealing.

Hamoudi has me guess the names spices and from my past passion for cooking, I was able to recall most of them.
When exiting our home, Dar Aicha, we are in the souk in less than 30 seconds. In other words, it’s almost outside our door. If we could shop for food and spice, this would be a veritable paradise with colorful shops and stands all begging for negotiation for the vast array of merchandise.
The smells of these scented rocks mixed with the spices were intoxicating.

Locally handcrafted items, clothing, shoes, handbags, leather goods, fresh produce, baked goods, pottery, silver goods, and costume jewelry seem to predominate the offerings in both the souk and the Medina.

One must have thick skin to walk through the souk with tourists pushing their way through the crowds, locals carrying or wheeling over-sized bundles and motorized bikes suddenly appearing out of nowhere zooming through the narrow streets where no cars are allowed.

Spice balls to be tossed into an open fire.

Yesterday, we decided to make our first foray into the Medina to find a restaurant for an early dinner. After traversing through the souk, we made our way into the Medina, a 10-minute walk through the crowds, where restaurants were lined up, one after another. 

Turmeric, a commonly used spice in Moroccan cooking. For many centuries turmeric has been extolled for its many medicinal uses.

In an effort to experience many of the local restaurants, we’ve decided to work our way around the Medina, trying one after another. I’m certain, that at one point, we’ll find favorites that we may visit more frequently.  The excitement of the Jemaa el Fna changes by the minute, illustrating a unique and interesting perspective of life in Marrakesh.

By the way, the spelling of many of the words and names of people, places, and things varies. Arabic is written in characters rather than letters resulting in a variety of translations, all of which are acceptable. For example, as mentioned in another post Marrakesh is also spelled Marrakech, always pronouncing the “esh” in the same manner. I will make every effort to be consistent in words used here to avoid appearing to be errors in my spelling.

Shoppers are attracted to colorful displays.
Also, the likelihood of us learning any words in Arabic with the unique dialect of Marrakesh is remote in our short time here. Even the basic words are difficult to master. Luckily, I know enough French to be able to read signs, menus, and ask general questions. The predominant languages of Marrakesh, in addition to Arabic, is French.  Waiters and shop owners may speak some English as we’ve experienced thus far.
Colorfulness overload!

Late yesterday afternoon, we headed out in search of a restaurant. Tom was inclined toward a hamburger and fries which we’d seen on a menu a few days earlier. 

Once we made our way through the souk to the open-air Medina (pronounced “me deen a”), it didn’t take long to locate a casual outdoor dining spot set among many other restaurants with burgers and fries on the menu plus a few good options for me.

Some of our photos, such as this, were taken while walking to avoid possible pressure from the hard-working salespeople.

Tom’s hamburger and fries and my delicious Moroccan spiced seafood salad were especially enjoyed while chatting and viewing the varied activities in the square. The food was great along with the service. Many have told us not to purchase food from the carts in the square. 

Unfortunately, I am unable to take a risk in eating street vendor foods and, in any case, neither of us likes to be eating while standing or walking. For us, dining is an experience to be savored while relaxing at a comfortable table and chairs with plenty of napkins on hand.

Exiting the souk, we entered the square looking for a restaurant.

Plus, the cost was rather reasonable at US $13.27, MAD (Moroccan dirham, different than the dirham in other African countries) 110 including tax and tip.

Not all the prices on items in the souk were bargains. One must negotiate which is expected.

After lunch, we wandered into a spice shop, after the smells drew us inside. The friendly owner spoke English and we explained that we are unable to cook while here making spice purchases unlikely. Instead, he brought out what looked like little bars of soap scraping a gentle swipe across our hands for us to smell. They were infused with designer fragrances in such a subtle manner that it was intoxicating. One was a musk, the other a flowery scent. 

Often, the shop vendors are keeping busy using their smartphones and tablets while waiting for customers. Perhaps, this is why there isn’t as much in-your-face solicitation as one might expect.

Having not worn any fragrances since leaving the US, I was hooked, unable to resist buying the two little bars at a fair price after a lively negotiation with the animated shop owner, Hamoudi. His shop is located at 144, Bab Ftouh Place Jamaa el Fna, Marrakesh. He insisted we take photos with him which are shown here today. After our visit, I was giddy from the pleasant experience and we were on our way. 

We’ve seen several peanuts-in-the-shell vendors wheeling these large carts in the Medina.

Returning to Dar Aicha, after spending the better part of the afternoon in the Medina, we were stuffed and content to spend the remainder of the evening reading, writing and of course, reviewing our photos from the day.

Huge slabs of a variety of meats are hanging outside the butcher shops. We were uncertain if this was lamb or goat or otherwise. I asked but no one spoke English. Comments?

Tonight, Madame Zahra will prepare our dinner for yet another fine evening in Dar Aicha, our home for this leg of our many year’s long journey to see the world.

Thanks to all of our worldwide readers for sharing our ongoing travels which means the world to us.

Dar Aicha…A small palace…A big lifestyle…Photos of the “riad”…

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Looking up at the sky, day and night, is a rare treat, from inside the riad, defined as traditional Moroccan house with an interior garden or courtyard.

The water pressure and the consistency of the hot water makes taking a shower a pleasant experience.  The lack of insects, snakes and centipedes allows fearless roaming at night in the dark. It’s no longer necessary to lather from head to toe in insect repellent several times a day. 

Link to the listing on Homeaway.com

The sunlight in the courtyard provides a welcoming warmth as we acclimate to the cooler weather.
Morocco is known for its traditional design, architecture befitting the lifestyle of its people for many centuries. Our bedroom is through these white drapes.  On the interior, there are heavier drapes for added privacy. So far, we’ve been up and dressed before staff arrives between 8:30 and 9:00 am, staying until after dinner is served and dishes washed.

The cool temperatures from a low of 50F, 10C to a high of 75F, 24C prevents us from the necessity of wearing the least amount of clothing possible while maintaining a certain level of modesty as we did over the past many months. Sleeping is easier and more comfortable with a fluffy comforter we don’t need to kick off during the night. I wore socks to bed these past three nights. Nice.

The one end of the salon, comparable to a living room, is where we’ll spend most of our free time when not out.
The opposite end of the salon as shown above. We’re delighted to have discovered the BBC, an English speaking news channel, allowing us to stay current in world affairs.

After nine months of hot weather, beginning in Tuscany during Italy’s heat of summer, with no AC;  then on to Kenya’s humid heat with no AC; later on to South Africa’s heat of summer with AC in the bedroom, it’s taking time for us to acclimate to the cooler, albeit pleasant, weather of Marrakesh (may also be spelled, Marrakech, still pronounced with the “esh” sound).

The dining room where our meals are served each night we choose to dine in with Madame Zahra cooking. One of the conditions of staying in Dar Aicha is to have all of our dining-in meals, prepared, served, and cleared by Madame Zahra and other staff. Employed as a full-time chef, we stay out of the simple kitchen other than to get our beverages, which we prefer to do on our own. Soon, we’ll head to a grocery store for snacks and cheese, also which we will be able to serve ourselves. However, we may not cook at all during the two and a half month stay.

This morning I’m wearing a long dress, long socks, and a hot pink fluffy robe provided in our room and I’m also covered with a blanket. Gee, what will we do in Iceland in September?

This is the entrance to the artist’s studio.  The owner of the riad is a renowned artist currently living in England. On occasion, she spends time at Dar Aicha when it isn’t rented. The staff gave us a gracious card from the owner with a thoughtful handwritten note, welcoming and thanking us for visiting Dar Aicha, a touch we greatly appreciated.

Finally, we’ve adapted to the two hour time difference between South Africa and Morocco with both of us awakening this morning at our usual times. I’m more rested today than a few nights before we left South Africa when fitful sleep plagued me over several nights while anxious over the upcoming long travel period. 

This second-floor lounge area was where we initially anticipated, we’d spent most of our free time. But, once we tried the lower level salon, as shown above, we found it to be a more ideal location for us, although at times we will use this area.

(By the way, we both have combated any future anxiety over lengthy flights and travel time. Although we were tired, we did very well, comfortable that we’ll easily manage any long trips in the future. Traveling to Morocco was our longest travel time thus far).

Most of the rooms surrounding the courtyard are long and narrow but, by no means feel cramped or small. This is where we sleep in this comfortable bed and covers. The colorful glass in the windows blocks out enough light to provide privacy and block out the light when sleeping.

We chose the “blue” room for its calming atmosphere. 

The Moroccan furnishings are interesting and well made. This chest is where Tom stores his clothing while I keep mine in another bedroom preventing me from awakening him when I awake about a half-hour before him each morning. He stays up later than I.

The first night, we both kept walking into the protrusion on the right side or this ornate bathroom door that is at shoulder level. With our bad, right shoulders, we quickly learned to avoid walking into this. On the right, is the last of our now worn large orange suitcase, used for Tom’s clothing.

The interior of the master en suite bath, all blue to match the room. The darkened colors on the walls are not water stained. It’s simply a variation in the color. The bathrooms, as well as the bedrooms, are fully equipped for all of our needs, soaps, toilet paper, and tissues, and a hand mirror. The sinks are all hammered brass, which hasn’t rusted as typical for brass near water. 

The colorful daybed is reflected in this antique mirror in our bedroom


This is the doorway from our bedroom to the sunny courtyard.  We can easily drop these drapes for more privacy, if we choose, which hasn’t yet been necessary.

All in all, we’re very comfortable. The food is manageable for my way of eating and for Tom’s taste buds, the people are warm and friendly and we feel safe, although continuing to maintain our usual level of caution.

I chose the pink bedroom for my clothing and for showering and dressing in the mornings. At first glance, these en suite bathroom doors appear to be a mirror, giving one the sense of “Alice in Wonderland,” walking through a mirror.
 This is the interior of my pink bathroom.
 This bathroom is cluttered with my stuff, illustrating why it’s best that Tom and I don’t share. In my old life, I had an entire cupboard filled with stuff. Now, I only have what is shown here, a bit messy, but all that I use.
 The interior of my pink shower. Great water pressure and fast hot water. After using water, the pipes make the most unusual sound, a “whoosh,” we’ve never heard before.
The window near the bed in the pink room.  I use the bed to keep one of the smaller orange bags for easy access to our supplies.

The riad is ideal for us, although for the less sure-footed, the one or two steps off of each room into the courtyard could be a tripping hazard. The bedrooms are all up a flight of stone steps with another flight to the rooftop which may be difficult for some. 

The smallest of the three bedrooms is the yellow room which we don’t use at all, ideal for children.
This doorway has an “Alice in Wonderland” l than any of the others, especially when entering its charming yellow en suite bathroom.
No photo can do justice to this playful and colorful en suite bathroom.

With our diminished activity level with no housecleaning, laundry, cooking, or dishes, other than walking in the Medina, and up and down the steps, we will make a concerted effort to keep moving around as much as possible.

Today, we share our photos of Dar Aicha and a link to the website where we originally discovered this lovely property. Although not officially a “palace” its style is commensurate with the layout of an open-air center courtyard, as typical in many homes in Marrakesh. 

Another blue sky view of the sky above the center courtyard.  At night, the stars are breathtaking from inside the riad.

This morning, as I stepped from our bedroom to my own “dressing” bedroom, I noticed three of the “tibbits,” (birds) flying in the house. No, it’s not as exciting as a warthog family of four or five or, a kudu with his white “got milk” mustache or, a giraffe thudding through the yard munching on treetops.

Last night’s vegetable course of Madame Zahra’s fine dining. We were so busy chatting I forgot to take a photo of the main course, a flavorful and spicy meatball dish made with cooked eggs on the top. We enjoyed it all.

But, it was exciting to see the little birds freely flying in the courtyard, their chirping music to our ears, and the sounds of other familiar birds of Africa flying over the house, creating a shadow in the courtyard, in the morning sunlight.

For now, we couldn’t be happier. Dar Aicha is our home.

Note:  This afternoon, we’re heading out to the Souk and Medina to find a good spot for dinner. The options are many! Our outing provides Madame Zahra a night off which we’ll happily do a few times each week.  We’ll report back tomorrow with more photos, of where we dined, what we ate, and more new areas of the Medina and the Souk that we’ve yet to explore.

Settling into a new life in Morocco…Lots of photos…

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As we made our way into the Souk.
The Souk is a wealth of colorful displays. We’d expected the sales people to be more aggressive than they were, especially when we’re not stopping to look at the merchandise.
The narrow streets were apparently more crowded than usual with a school holiday bringing more tourists to Marrakesh. Today, we should find it less crowded, again to pick up during Easter and spring break with many non-Muslim tourists from all over the world.

The open courtyard in our little palace, Dar Aicha, made us laugh today. Here we are once again, mostly outdoors all day. We whined about it Kenya, we adapted in South Africa and now in Marrakesh, we feel right at home. 

The fresh vegetables from the farm make for colorful displays in the Souk.
 Most of the merchandise appeared to be of good quality. Knockoffs are typical as in many parts of the world that we’ve visited.
Beautiful fruit carts are abundant with fruit, nuts, and dried fruit popular in this part of the world.

Of course, the cool weather requiring an afghan on my lap and the lack of insects is a contributing factor. No mosquitoes. No flies. No snakes and centipedes. As I mentioned many times in the past, it’s all about trade-offs. 

There are cats everywhere, most at ease around the crowds.Many are homeless living off the crumbs and scraps of humans.
Ice cream is popular in Marrakesh.
Huge loads are hauled by the hand carts.

With little wildlife for our viewing other than the “tibbits,” the little birds that fly into the house, and the many birds we hear flying above the house, familiar to us from Kenya and South Africa, we place our focus on the many treasures that Marrakesh has to offer.

As we neared the entrance to the walled city, the Medina, the crowds thinned out.
Colorful displays are a feast for the eyes. 
If our luggage zippers break, we know where to purchase new bags.

Embracing the culture is our first goal as we strive to blend in rather than to appear as tourists. This morning, I donned a long khaki dress topped with a long-sleeved shirt to be less conspicuous when we venture out, with all of my skin covered except for my face. 

A French bakery drew us inside. I can look, can’t I? Tom wasn’t interested in any of these items. Had there been a plain cake donut, he’d have had a hard time resisting.
We stopped many times during our two-hour walk, checking the menus as various restaurants to determine the suitability for my way of eating. Samir explained that I’d have a tough time dining out since sugar, starch, and flour is used in most foods. 

Tom giggled saying that my camera exposes me more than my skin! That, my dear readers, I will not forgo.  The photos will continue. Luckily, I kept four such cotton dresses which will be well worn by the time we leave Morocco. My sense of fashion and wardrobe diversity was forfeited long ago. 

Often we’ve noticed that restaurants are located on the top floors of various buildings as in this case. Salespeople are on the streets encourage passersby to partake in their dining.
One outdoor café after another line the streets. We’ve decided to dine out a few nights a week when we noticed fresh egg omelets on most of the menus, an item I’ll gladly order for dinner (sans “pork” bacon, not readily available in Muslim countries).
Dried fruit displays are colorful and inviting, although neither of us eats them.

Trying to recall the French I learned 50 years ago is challenging. Yesterday, I surprised both Tom and me when suddenly I burst out in perfect French when asking Oumaima a question. Stymied, I looked at Tom as we both laughed. What we learned as kids is stored in our brains and with a bit of effort can be recalled.

Morocco is known for its fine spices, all reasonably priced. The smells were intoxicating.
The variety of spices available was astounding.
Horse and donkey-drawn carts are common in the Medina.

Since Morocco was a French colony, both French and Arabic are spoken. The challenge is discovering who speaks which language and making a concerted effort to communicate. 

At times, the narrow roads were almost unpassable due to the crowds. Patiently, we wait to pass.
The names of local vegetables escape us. But, Oumaima explained in French that these are raw figs (figue). In time we’ll learn.
Colorful handmade pottery and dishes are a common offering.

Luckily, Samir speaks excellent English and with the ability to communicate in part with Oumaima in French when Samir is out, we’re fine. Madame Zahra only speaks Arabic which apparently is spoken differently in Marrakesh, not unlike comparing an American from Boston with another form New Orleans. Typing a question into Google Translate may not suffice.

For a frame of reference, 25 of the Moroccan Dirham, hereafter referred to as the MAD, is equal to US $3.01. It looks as if most restaurant prices are commensurate with South Africa, making dining out easily affordable.
A plant and flower shop in the Medina.
In the walled Medina, there isn’t space for gardens, but many locals shopping in the Medina live outside the walled city or have window boxes.

Over the next week, most assuredly, we’ll learn the basic courtesies in Arabic as Okee Dokee so well taught us in Afrikaans. Tom continues to say “Buyadonkey,” (incorrect spelling but literal phonetics) for “thank you” here in Marrakesh. 

The vast array of products for sale in the Souk makes it a huge attraction for tourists and locals.
Bags, bags, and more bags, in all shapes. sizes and styles, although a few standouts as preferred by locals.
Cookies and confections.

When we arrived in South Africa, he was still saying “asante” in Swahili (spoken in Kenya), and before that, he said”, “grazie” in Kenya from our time in Italy. When in Italy, he was saying “gracias” from our time Belize.

The narrow walkway to our home for the next two and a half months, Dar Aicha, where,  we expect to be very happy.

He’s always one country behind in his language skills and not at all embarrassed. We laugh every time he does it. Perhaps, the people of Marrakesh will assume I married a South African. 

After months of never watching the news, this morning we’re seated in the beautiful draped and pillow adorned main “salon” with the TV on with BBC news, to keep us informed as to what’s happening outside of our own small world. How easy it is to become out of touch in our own world, so rich in varied experiences. 

Closer…

Tom, unlocking our door for the first time after returning from our outing.

After another fabulous Moroccan dinner last night, we hunkered down and watched another episode of The Bachelor, Juan Pablo, on my laptop, thoroughly enjoying the mindless enjoyment of a familiar TV show. We munched on the remaining nuts we’d brought with us finding comfort in old routines.

This is the pleasing view of the fountain, as we look out the open doorway of the salon, where we sit now as we write. Soon, we begin sharing more photos of Dar Aicha.

In the past, we’ve watched downloaded movies or TV shows when dining in, chatting all the while. Now, out of respect for the efforts of Madame Zahra’s fine cooking, we’ve let that habit waft away, savoring the food and each other’s company, chatting all the while.

Ah, once again, we freely say, “Life is good.” 

Good morning, Marrakesh! With open arms, you welcome us into your enchanting world…

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Here’s the guy with the wheeling cart hauling our luggage through the Medina with Adile at his right. When checking our bags in Johannesburg, it was required to have all of our luggage was wrapped in plastic for security reasons.

Entering the Medina with our luggage, where motorized vehicles are not allowed.

Where do we begin?  We won’t bore you with too many details of the misinformation we were given by the gate agent in Johannesburg that we’d have to collect our luggage in Casablanca, take it through customs, and recheck it for the final flight to Marrakesh. 
 The views from the plane became more and more interesting the closer we flew to the city of Marrakesh, Morocco.

The city of Marrakesh presented an awesome sight as we approached the airport.

When the four bags didn’t appear in Casablanca, we imagined they were lost. Trying to stay as calm as possible, which we did rather well during the entire 29 hours of travel time, we tried to get answers. We couldn’t find anyone who spoke English well enough to explain our dilemma. 
 Most of the eight ascents and descents in the 29 hours, required Tom breaking down six pieces of hand luggage including the cart when we had to use to steep outdoor steps when the planes are parked on the tarmac. Rarely, are the tubes used in many countries. On two occasions we had to board a bus in order to get to the tarmac to access the steep steps. Cumbersome.
Honesty, with our worldly possessions well insured, we were more worried about the time and inconvenience it would cost us than the loss of our stuff. We had all the important electronics, documents, and prescriptions in our carry on. Finally, we found am English-speaking agent at the counter for our final flight to Marrakesh that said, “No worry. Your bags have gone on to Marrakesh.”

The man with the car and Adile (pronounced “Agile”) as they began to enter the Medina.

After an hour of worry, we were able to make it to the final gate and breathe a sigh of relief. Oh well, if that was the only thing that happened in 29 hours, we were happy. Yes, there were other incidents of misinformation but, we’ve learned that it goes with the territory.

 As Samir explained when we asked about the customs of Morocco, we are not to take photos of the faces of locals without their permission.  his is a custom we’ve experienced in other Muslim countries which we will honor and respect. Going forward, we’ll make a point of capturing the many sites, with more time to stage the photos.
Tom, a former hothead, amazes me in his commitment to avoid ever being viewed as the “ugly American.” In doing so, he stays calm and unruffled in the worst of situations. I’m the eternal optimist avoiding ruffled feathers at all costs.  Practicing calmness actually has made us calm. It’s funny how that works.
 Adile, as he opened the front door of our new home.
Upon picking up our luggage at the Marrakesh airport using the “free” luggage trolley (we have yet to pay for a cart at any airport outside the US), we made our way to the entrance of the airport to look for Samir, our houseman for our new home, Dar Aicha. (Residences have names in Africa as you may have noticed from our past posts). 
 Upon entering the door to Dar Aicha, our private home for the next two and a half months, we were taken aback by its majestic charm. This center courtyard is surrounding by the many rooms of the house and is open to the sky. 
In no less than 30 seconds, there stood a tall, handsome young man with our names on a white sign. Samir immediately took charge, loading a new SUV with all of our belongings. The driver, Hamouda (spelling?), will be at our service as needed, having worked for Dar Aicha for many years. 

 With three floors of living space at our disposal, we have to choose where to lounge as we write here today. 
Once we arrived at the Medina, another 20 something male house employee, Adile, guarded the cart as it was traversed by the man in the above photo, for the 15 minutes it took to work our way through the crowded Medina, through the souk, to the house situated amid the awe-inspiring activity of the old city. 
 This morning I caught Tom off guard as he exited the bedroom to join me to begin our day. Many more house photos will be posted in the near future as we settle in.
As we made this walk, the exhaustion flew away while the adrenalin was pumping with our excitement. We couldn’t get enough as our eyes were flying from left to right, our nostrils flaring with the mouth-watering aromas, and my fingers itching to touch the gorgeous silks and fabrics.
 In Dar Aicha, birds are free to come and go into the house at their leisure.
Unfortunately, we were on a mission to keep up with the guy with the cart and didn’t want to detain the three of them with our tourist-like gawking. We’ll soon go out on our own, anytime we want. The photos shown here today, taken of the Medina and the souk were done in haste while moving quickly through the crowded narrow vehicle-free streets. I promise many more will follow.
 Last evening, candles were lit to add to the already inviting ambiance.
Once we entered Dar Aicha, considered a small palace on three levels with a staff of four overseeing to all of our needs, we were in awe. Oh, good grief! Our needs are few: meals, bottled water, clean towels and bedding, clean house, and clean laundry. 
 This sideboard displayed a series of lit candles in the dining room, specifically for our enjoyment.
There are multiple buzzers for us to ring, on each level if we want something. We can’t imagine ever pressing it. But, one must consider the customs and the fact that service help is standard in much of Africa providing jobs for many of its citizens, from what we’ve experienced in the three countries in which we’ve lived thus far; Kenya, South Africa, and now Morocco. 
With the original intent of dining out frequently now down to perhaps once a week, we’ll be more than happy to dine in, content that Madame Zahra knows how to cook for me. Tom, bless his heart, is totally on board with dining in, after last night’s fabulous dinner. Tonight, fish is on the menu which Tom rarely eats but after last night’s dinner he’s prepared to try anything.
We’ve decided we’d like dinner at 6:30 pm as opposed to 7:00 pm for a few reasons; one, we don’t eat much during the day and two, Madame Zahra will be able to leave earlier.
The vegetable first course, served to us by Madame Zahra last night. More food than we could eat, we stuffed ourselves, delighted when everything presented except the bread in the upper left corner, was befitting my restrictive diet.  
 
With the language barrier and the crowds, it will be difficult to inquire about my way of eating from food vendors on the streets. I’m here in yet another country having the time of my life rather than living in a wheelchair constantly in excruciating pain. Do I complain or even think about what I’m missing in foods? Never! I’m grateful for every moment of my life. 
Madame Zahra, Dar Aicha’s resident cook for many years, arrives before 9:00 am each morning and stays until after she serves dinner and cleans up. This morning only minutes after arriving, she delivered a tray with fresh grounds-free French pressed hot coffee to the salon (the living room) where most likely we’ll spend most of our time when not out and about or sleeping.
Last night, with a little trepidation, we were seated at the table in the dining room at precisely 7:00 pm, Madame Zahra’s usual serving time. Worried that Tom wouldn’t like the spicy foods and that food befitting my way of eating would be difficult to prepare, within minutes our worries wafted away when plate after plate of delicious foods was presented at our table; the varied vegetable dishes first and later, the grilled seasoned chicken which she cooked over an open fire on the rooftop.
Last night’s dinner clearly illustrated that living in Dar Aicha with Madame Zahra in the kitchen will only add to the joy of our experiences in Marrakesh. When we read the many five star reviews on Dar Aicha, we observed how other guests also preferred to dine in, after trying her delicious meals.
This grilled chicken was perfectly cooked and seasoned to perfection.
After a great night’s sleep in the 50F, 10C, cool to us weather, bundled under a fluffy down comforter and blankets, it was hard to stay in bed long.  With a two hour time difference from South Africa, I was up and about at 5:00 am and Tom shortly after, both of us anxious to begin the day.  

By 6:00 am this morning, I finished unpacking and Tom, a borderline procrastinator, will be done by the end of the day.  Now, at 10:30 am, our laundry is being washed, our bathrooms are cleaned with the smell of pine, and our bed is neatly remade. (I always keep my clothing and toiletries in another bedroom to avoid waking Tom when invariably I arise earlier). 

And yes, once again we had to decide as to which room we’d sleep in and which one I’d use for my things. Once again, it took us a half-hour to make a decision, especially considering yesterday’s tired state of being when our brains weren’t fully operational in our tired state.
This morning, on the rooftop, our first glimpse daybreak.
What’s my excuse for asking Tom where certain rooms are in this spacious home, invariably starting out in the wrong directions? I never had a sense of direction anyway. Why would that change now?
Soon, we’ll get out to explore this culture-rich diverse city, much of which begins at our doorstep. Also, we need to locate an ATM and a pharmacy since all of the shampoo and conditioner were squeezed out of the bottles in my suitcase when it was tightly plastic-wrapped at the Johannesburg airport.
There is no way that living in Marrakesh will ever result in a boring day, unsure of what to do with ourselves. Then again, we’ve haven’t had a dull day in the 16 months since leaving Minnesota on Halloween, 2012. Actually, to be more specific, we haven’t had a dull day in almost 23 years.

Note: The WiFi in Marrakesh is inconsistent and slow at times. On occasion, as shown today, we’ll have formatting issues over which we have no control. We apologize for the inconvenience and kindly ask you bear with us. Thank you!